Wutai Mountain: A Sanctuary of Buddhist Tranquility

与世无争的佛家圣地五台山

Wutai Mountain, located in central part of Shanxi Province, is one of the most revered Buddhist sites in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as the “Five Terrace Mountain” due to its unique topography of five flat peaks, it has been a center of Buddhist worship and pilgrimage for over a thousand years. The mountain is dedicated to Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, and is home to a series of ancient temples surrounded by stunning natural beauty.

五台山位于山西省中部,是世界上最受敬仰的佛教圣地之一,也被评为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产。它因其独特的五座类似平台的山峰地貌而被称为“五台山”,一千多年来一直是佛教徒朝圣的目的地。这座名山供奉着象征智慧的文殊菩萨,山上有许多古老的寺庙,周围环绕着令人神往的自然美景。

Wutai Mountain is the transition stop in my voyage of Shanxi. It is not far away from Tai Yuan. I arrived at the entrance of this mountain at the noon of July 3rd,2024. The duration of this trip of pilgrim by bus is over two hours. It was a cloudy day, and from far view, the greenery of this mountain is shrouded by the white thick clouds which dim the sunlight.

五台山是本人此次山西之行的中转站,距离太原并不远。我于2024年7月3日中午到达这座山的入口。这趟朝圣之旅从太原乘坐巴士需要的时间大致刚超过两个小时。初抵五台山的时分阴云密布,远远眺望,山峰上郁郁葱葱的绿色植物被白色的厚厚云层笼罩,完全遮蔽了阳光。

I stayed for two days at the scenic spot center, Tai Huai Town from where the mountains stretch endlessly along the only road connecting outside. Their vastness is awe-inspiring, a tranquil realm where time seems suspended. The clouds drift and swirl as though the mountains are whispering secrets to the sky. The scene evokes a sense of mystery, where the boundless expanse of nature feels both humbling and infinite.

我在风景区中心台怀镇待了两天,这里的山势绵延不绝,只有一条与外界相连的道路。大山的浩瀚令人叹为观止,这里如此寂静,时间似乎停止了流动。云彩悬浮飘动,群山仿佛在向天空低声寄语。这一切不由地令我感到了一丝神秘感,在广阔无垠的大自然面前任何人都显得如此渺小。

Nanshan Temple

There are numerous temples in the scenic area of Wutai Mountain since it is too famous of Buddhism. At the first day, the weather in the mountain was bad, and I only visited some temples near the places I lived. The Nanshan Temple was located on the southern slopes of Wutai Mountain. It is one of the mountain’s most magnificent and historically rich temples. Originally constructed during the Yuan Dynasty, the temple was renowned for its unique architectural layout, which ascends in three tiers, symbolizing the Buddhist concept of spiritual elevation.

五台山因佛教名胜的盛名,景区内寺庙林立。第一天山上的天气极差,我只参观了住处附近的一些寺庙。南山寺位于五台山南坡可谓是最宏伟、历史最为丰富的寺庙之一。该寺始建于元代,以其独特的建筑布局而闻名,寺庙分三层以阶梯式上升,象征着佛教精神世界的升华。

The White Tower in the Nanshan Temple is a striking and iconic structure that embodies the essence of Tibetan Buddhist architecture. Rising majestically within the temple complex, the tower is shaped like an inverted lotus, symbolizing purity and enlightenment in Buddhist tradition. Its smooth, white exterior contrasts beautifully with the surroundings, creating a serene and sacred ambiance. This kind of tower, known as a stupa, serves as a reliquary and is said to house sacred Buddhist relics. It is topped with decorative elements such as prayer flags or bronze finials.

南山寺白塔是一座引人注目的标志性建筑,体现了藏传佛教建筑的精髓。该塔雄伟地矗立在寺庙建筑群内,形状像一朵倒立的莲花,象征着佛教的纯洁和开悟。其光滑的白色外观与周围环境形成鲜明对比,营造出宁静而神圣的氛围。这种佛塔据说存放着舍利子等佛教圣物。它的顶部有祈祷旗帜或青铜尖顶等装饰元素。

The halls within the temple showcase classic Chinese architectural features, such as curved eaves, painted beams, and intricate wood carvings. Guarding the entrances to the temple are pairs of stone lions, symbols of protection and power in Chinese culture. Carved with meticulous detail, these lions represent balance and symmetry. At the heart of the temple courtyard stands a large incense burner, an essential feature of Buddhist temples. Made of bronze, the burner is adorned with the name of the temple, Buddhist symbols, and auspicious motifs. Pilgrims and visitors light incense sticks here, offering prayers and seeking blessings as fragrant smoke wafts upward.

寺庙内的殿堂展现了如弧形飞檐、画梁和精美的木雕等中国古典建筑的特色。寺庙入口处有一对石狮,在中国文化中象征着庇护。这些石狮子雕刻细节丰富代表着中国传统对称平衡的观念。寺庙庭院的中心矗立着在普通佛教寺庙内都能见到的大型香炉。青铜制成的香炉饰有寺庙名称、佛教符号和吉祥图案。香客和游人在炊烟袅袅的香炉前焚香祈福。

The grey-colored old houses in the temple stand as quiet in the , weathered witnesses to centuries of history and devotion. These buildings, with their muted, stone-gray façades, blend seamlessly into the rocky terrain and lush pine forests surrounding. The old stone and brick walls, softened by time carry a serene, almost ethereal quality. The grey hues of the houses, worn by the winds and seasons, create a feeling of peaceful solitude, perfectly suited to the sacred atmosphere of the mountain. The steep, tiled roofs with their curves and edges softened by years of exposure to the mountain’s mist and rain. The tiles, some slightly chipped or moss-covered, tell a story of time’s quiet passage.

寺庙里灰蒙蒙的老房子在细雨中静静地屹立在山边,它们饱经风霜见证了几个世纪的历史和信仰。这些建筑由柔和的石灰色外墙建成,与周围的岩石地形和茂密的松树林完美地融为一体。古旧的石砖墙随着时间的流逝而磨平了棱角,呈现出一种与世无争空灵的品质。抑郁的灰色色调经过风雨的洗涤显出依稀的孤独感,却与佛教超脱世俗的氛围完美契合。陡峭的瓦片屋顶由于长年暴露在山上的雾气和雨水中,其曲线和边缘也磨损严重。这些略有残缺的砖瓦布满青苔,静静地诉说着往事。

In front of these old simple houses, one monk rested quietly on wooden benches. His simple robes blend with the natural color palette of the temple. His faces are calm and contemplative. The monks in this temple are not in a rush; they move slowly, embracing the tranquility of their surroundings. The gentle rustling of the wind through the pine trees and the occasional chant or bell sound from the temple add to the mystery of the scene. Every element, whether man-made or natural, exists in perfect balance and harmony.

古朴的老房子前,一位僧人静静地端坐在木凳上。简单的僧袍与寺庙的色调融为一体。僧人的表情平静而略带思绪。这座寺庙里的僧人不急不躁节奏舒缓,享受这周围的宁静。微风吹过松树的轻柔沙沙声,以及寺庙里偶尔传来的诵经声或钟鸣声是如此的神秘令人浮想联翩。这里的一切元素,一切景物无论是人工的还是自然的,都如此浑然天成。

The first day in the mountain was rainy and I did not go to a lot of places due to the bad weather. Fortunately, the second day was sunny. I spent most of the time in traveling the temples in this mountain. This is a good point to take the photo including temples of different layers. The temples of Wutai Mountain are renowned for their unique layout, arranged in layers. The mountain’s sacred sites are distributed across its five main peaks—East, West, South, North, and Central. The temples like Shuxiang Temple and Tayuan Temple serve as main sites to the sacred journey. They are usually accessible at lower level. The higher layer of Wutai Mountain hosts some of the most significant temples, like Pusading Temple in the background of this photo. It is one of the highest-ranking monasteries on the mountain. These temples are situated along winding paths that ascend higher into the mountain, offering panoramic views of the landscape.

进山的第一天下雨,很多地方遗憾没去。幸运的是老天有眼,第二天天气晴朗。这一天大部分时间都在逛这座山上的几座寺庙。这里是拍摄五台山不同层次寺庙的照片的好地方。五台山寺庙以其布局独特、层层排列而闻名。这座山的圣地分布在东、西、南、北、中五座主峰上。像殊像寺塔院寺这样的寺庙是拜佛的主要目的地。它们交通便利,位于较低的山层。五台山的较高层还有一些最重要的寺庙,例如这张照片背景中的菩萨顶寺,它是山上等级最高的寺庙。这些寺庙坐落在通向高处的蜿蜒的小路上,在那里可以欣赏到五台山全景。

Shuxiang Temple

Shuxiang Temple is one of the most famous and significant temples in the area, renowned for its rich history and extraordinary cultural and spiritual importance. Its name, “Shuxiang,” translates to “Exquisite Image,” which reflects its dedication to Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, whose exquisite statues and imagery are a centerpiece of the temple.

殊像寺是该地区最著名最重要的寺庙之一,以其丰富的历史文化和宗教意义而闻名。它的名字“殊像”文言文翻译过来就是“精美的形象”,反映了对文殊菩萨的崇拜,寺中文殊菩萨的精美雕像和画像则是寺庙的核心。

Shuxiang Temple dates back to the Northern Wei Dynasty, making it one of the oldest temples on Wutai Mountain. Over the centuries, it has undergone several renovations and expansions. The main hall of the temple houses a grand, intricately carved statue of Manjushri riding a lion, symbolizing ultimate wisdom and fearlessness. The statue is surrounded by depictions of Buddhist deities and disciples. The statue is richly adorned with vibrant colors, dazzling gold leaf, and detailed features that reflect the artistic brilliance of the time.

殊像寺始建于北魏,是五台山最古老的寺庙之一。几个世纪以来,它经历了多次翻新和扩建。寺庙的正殿供奉着一尊雕刻精美的文殊菩萨骑狮像,象征着至高智慧和无畏精神。雕像周围有佛教神灵和佛家弟子的描像。这座雕像装饰华丽,色彩鲜艳,闪亮的金箔和精细制作细节特征反映了当时的艺术辉煌。

Tayuan Temple

Tayuan Temple is one of the most iconic and revered Buddhist temples in the area. Its history can be dated back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) and was later expanded during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Many people come to this temple to burn incense, show their devotions to Manjushri, symbolizing a prayer for wisdom, clarity, and enlightenment. Pilgrims hope to receive blessings for intellectual and spiritual growth.

塔院寺是五台山地区标志性和最受敬仰的佛教寺庙之一。其历史可以追溯到元朝,后来在明清时期得到扩建。许多人来到这座寺庙烧香,表达对文殊菩萨的虔诚信仰,象征着人们祈求智慧和开悟的决心。朝圣者希望通过祈福获得智力和精神成长的加持。

The towering Great White Pagoda, standing over 50 meters is the defining feature of Tayuan Temple and the tallest structure on Wutai Mountain. The pagoda is built in the Tibetan stupa style, symbolizing the unity of heaven and earth. Its body is smooth and white, representing purity, and it is topped with a gilded spire adorned with delicate bronze ornaments. This white pagoda is the symbol of this mountain, which picture is really impressive in the travel brochure of Wutai Mountain. Unfortunately, when I arrived, it was under reparation.

高达50多米的大白塔是塔院寺的标志性建筑,也是五台山最高的建筑。该塔采用藏族佛塔风格建造,象征天地合一。它的身体光滑洁白,代表着佛家信仰的纯洁,顶部有一个镀金的尖顶,上面装饰着精致的青铜饰物。这座白塔是五台山的代表,总是会出现在五台山的旅游手册里。可惜在我来这里希望一睹它风采的时候却正在修缮中。

This is the main hall of Tayuan Temple. It is a rectangular structure set on a raised stone platform. It is surrounded by a spacious courtyard, allowing pilgrims to gather and perform rituals such as incense burning. There are numerous tourists assembling here even in the early morning. The hall’s roof is a classic example of a hip-and-gable style. The curved eaves sweep upward at the corners. The ridges are adorned with decorative figures, such as dragons and phoenixes, believed to ward off evil and invite blessings. This hall houses a grand statue of Manjushri as well.

这是塔院寺的正殿。它是一个设置在凸起的石头平台上的长方形结构,周围有一个宽敞的庭院,可供香客聚集并进行烧香等仪式。即使清早这里也聚集着太多的游客。大殿的屋顶是歇山顶风格,弯曲的屋檐在拐角处向上略过。屋脊上饰有龙凤等装饰物,人们相信可以用它辟邪招福。正殿内还供奉着一尊宏伟的文殊菩萨雕像。

I arrived at the temple at 7 am and I was shocked that so many people came here to burn the first incense in the morning and knelt in front this hall in the photo to get the blessing. The first incense of the day is believed to be the most powerful and auspicious, as it symbolizes a fresh start and the first connection between the human and divine realms. Pilgrims and devotees wake up so early and cluster here to offer incense, hoping to be the first to receive blessings from the Manjushri.

我一大早7点就抵达寺庙,令我震惊的是,有太多人来这里烧头香,并在照片中的这座殿堂前跪下祈福。当天的第一缕香通常被认为是最有祝福力以及最吉祥的,它象征着一个新的开始以及人与神域之间的第一次共鸣。众香客和信众们早早起床聚在这里就为了上这头注香,希望能够第一个得到文殊菩萨的保佑加持。

Luo Hou Temple

The center area of Wu Tai Mountain hosts many temples. Luo Hou Temple is a Tibetan Buddhist temple surrounded by towering pine trees and enclosed by striking red walls. As one of the significant Tibetan Buddhist sites on the mountain, it embodies the deep influence of Tibetan Buddhism in this holy region. Tibetan Buddhism, commonly known as Lamaism, developed in Tibet and has unique practices and rituals distinct from Chinese Buddhism. The most prominent school of Tibetan Buddhism is the Gelug Sect, founded by the revered monk Tsongkhapa during the Ming Dynasty. Monks of the Gelug Sect traditionally wear yellow robes, which is why they are often referred to as the “Yellow Sect.” Luo Hou Temple has rich Tibetan architectural elements inside.

五台山中心地区有许多寺庙。罗喉寺是一座藏传佛教寺庙,周围环绕着高耸的松树以及引人注目的红墙。作为山上重要的藏传佛教寺庙,它代表了藏传佛教在这一圣地的深厚影响。藏传佛教,俗称喇嘛教,发源于西藏,具有与汉传佛教不同的独特习俗和仪式。藏传佛教最著名的教派是格鲁派,由明代高僧宗喀巴大师创立。格鲁派僧侣传统上身穿黄色袈裟,因此又被称为“黄教”。罗喉寺内部具有浓郁的藏族建筑元素。

Prayer wheels are an integral part of Buddhist practice. They can be found in the Tibetan temples. These wheels, inscribed with sacred texts, mantras, and symbols, hold deep spiritual significance. They are made of bronze and wood, often adorned with intricate carvings and Buddhist imagery. Some larger ones are made of metal and stand on beautifully crafted pedestals. The most common mantra found on these wheels is “Om Mani Padme Hum”, a powerful Tibetan Buddhist chant associated with wisdom and compassion. Pilgrims turn the prayer wheels in a clockwise direction, following Buddhist tradition. This movement symbolizes the cycle of karma and spiritual purification.

转经轮是佛教修行中不可或缺的一部分。它们可以在藏传佛教的寺庙中经常就能看到。这些轮子上刻有神圣的文字、咒语和符号,具有深刻的精神象征意义。它们由青铜或木材制成,通常装饰有复杂的雕刻和佛教图像。一些较大的转轮由金属制成,放置在制作精美的基座上。这些轮子上最常见的咒语是“唵嘛呢贝美吽”,这是一种与智慧和慈悲相关的强大藏传佛教圣歌。朝圣者遵循佛教传统,顺时针方向转动转经筒。这个动作象征着业力的循环和精神的净化。

This is the pavilion of ‘Doushuai’. In Chinese culture, Doushuai is known as Tuṣita in Sanskrit which is a heavenly realm where Bodhisattva resides before their final rebirth into the human world to attain Buddhahood. It holds great significance in Buddhist cosmology. It is one of the Six Heavens of the Desire Realm in Buddhist cosmology. This celestial realm is believed to be a place of bliss and enlightenment, where bodhisattvas cultivate wisdom before descending to the human world. This pavilion is dedicated to Maitreya Bodhisattva, the future Buddha who currently resides in Tuṣita Heaven. It is a multi-storied structure, a rare architectural feature in Buddhist temples, symbolizing the celestial nature of Tuṣita Heaven.

这里是兜率阁。在中国文化中,兜率在梵文中被称为兜率天,是菩萨在最后转世成佛之前居住的天国。它在佛教宇宙论中具有重要意义。是佛教宇宙观中欲界六天之一。这个天界被认为是极乐和开悟的地方,菩萨在下降到人间之前在这里修养智慧。这座阁楼供奉的是现居住在兜率天的未来佛弥勒菩萨。它是一座多层建筑,在佛教寺庙中是比较罕见,象征着兜率天的仙性。

The tiered golden roof is adorned with dharma wheels, lotus motifs, and small golden pagodas, symbolizing wisdom and enlightenment. The curved eaves sweep upward in the traditional Chinese style. The golden tower is a small, gilded stupa. The Dharma Wheel is one of the most sacred symbols in Buddhism, representing the Buddha’s teachings and the path to enlightenment.

层层叠叠的金色屋顶上装饰着法轮、莲花图案和小金塔,象征着智慧和开悟。弧形屋檐向上微微翘起,颇具中国传统风格。金塔其实就是一座微型镀金的小佛塔。而法轮是佛教最神圣的象征之一,代表着佛陀的教义和觉悟之道。

In the scenic spot of Wutai, Dai Luoding is one of the most important temples, known as the “Small Wutai” because it is home to five Manjushri Bodhisattva statues, symbolizing the five major peaks of Mount Wutai. It is a revered pilgrimage site where devotees come to worship, ascend the sacred steps, and seek wisdom from Manjushri Bodhisattva. Of course, visitors can choose cable car to the top, but it lost the sacred meaning.

五台风景区里,黛螺顶是最重要的寺庙之一,因供奉着象征五台山五大山峰的五尊文殊菩萨像,被称为“小五台” 。这里是一处备受尊崇的朝圣地,信徒们登上具有象征意义的台阶前来朝拜,向文殊菩萨寻求指点迷津。当然,游客也可以选择缆车登顶,但这样就失去了象征意义。

Dai Luoding

It is situated on a small peak, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding temples and landscapes of Mount Wutai. It is regarded as a miniature version of the Five Terraces of Wutai, allowing pilgrims who cannot visit all five peaks to complete their worship in one place. Devotees believe that climbing Dai Luoding and worshiping the five Manjushri statues brings the same blessings as visiting all five mountain peaks. To reach the temple at the summit, I climbed the 108 steep stone steps, symbolizing the 108 afflictions in Buddhism that one must overcome to attain enlightenment. It was really an exhausting trip of spirits.

黛螺顶坐落在一座小山峰上,可以将周围的寺庙和五台山的风景尽收眼底。它被视为五台的缩小版,让无法游览五台山五座山峰的香客能够在这一处完成朝拜。信众们相信,登上黛螺顶、朝拜五尊文殊菩萨像,就可以得到与游览五座山峰同样的信仰加持。为了登顶寺庙,我也努力爬了108级陡峭的石阶。它们象征着佛教中必须克服108种烦恼才能获得开悟的必经之路。这确实是一段令人筋疲力尽的修行之旅。

The Tianwang Hall is the first major hall that pilgrims encounter when they ascend the 108 sacred steps leading to the temple. It serves as the entrance to the sacred realm of Manjushri Bodhisattva. The Tianwang Hall follows a classic Chinese temple layout, with a grand double-eaved roof supported by intricately carved wooden beams. The roof ridges are adorned with mythical creatures and Buddhist symbols.

天王殿是香客登上通往寺庙的108级台阶时遇到的第一个大殿。它是进入文殊菩萨圣界的入口。天王殿遵循中国古典寺庙布局,宏伟的重檐屋顶由雕刻精美的木梁支撑。屋脊上装饰着神话生物和佛教符号。

In front of the main hall, many Buddhists and pilgrims burn incense outside the hall and offer prayers in front of the Manjushri statues in the main hall. It is believed that circumambulating (walking around) the incense burner in prayer brings wisdom and enlightenment. incense burning is not allowed inside the halls. Many temple halls are constructed with ancient wooden architecture, making them highly flammable. The smoke from incense can damage murals, ancient statues, and wooden structures as well.

大雄宝殿前,许多佛教徒和香客在殿外烧香祈福。游客们还相信,绕香炉一圈祈福后进香可以获得文殊菩萨保佑并给他们带来智慧和启迪。佛家殿堂内一般不准烧香。许多寺庙殿堂都是古老的木结构建筑,非常易燃。焚香产生的烟雾也会损坏壁画、古代雕像和木结构。

Standing atop Dai Luoding, I was greeted with a breathtaking panoramic view of Mount Wutai’s sacred landscape, where ancient temples, rolling peaks, and mist-covered valleys create a scene of profound serenity and spiritual grandeur. Although I have a bit fear of height, I still enjoy climbing to top of mountains. It will bring me a sense of conquest. From the elevated position of Dai Luoding, I could gaze down upon the cluster of ancient temples. During summer, the mountain comes alive with lush greenery and vibrant flowers. The surrounding pine trees, cypress groves, and meadows make the scene fresh and full of life. Whether admiring the golden temples below, the misty peaks beyond, or the ever-changing sky above, I could not help but feel a deep sense of cleansing of the soul.

站在黛螺顶上,五台山神圣威严的景观尽收眼底,古老的寺庙、连绵的山峰、云雾缭绕的山谷,营造出一种深沉的宁静和宏伟的精神寄托。虽然我一直有点恐高,但还是挺喜欢爬山,登顶会给我带来一种征服感。从黛螺顶的高处,我可以俯视那群古老的寺庙。夏季时分,山上绿树成荫,鲜花盛开,生机勃勃。周围的松柏树林、绿油油的草地使这里一切显得生机盎然。无论是欣赏下面的金色寺庙,远处云雾缭绕的群山,还是穹顶不断变化的天空,我都情不自禁地感受到一种心灵的洗涤。

Guanghua Temple

In Wutai Mountain, I have seen many temples of Tibetan style. Mount Wutai is believed to be the bodhimaṇḍa (道场, sacred site) of Manjushri Bodhisattva. Manjushri is highly revered in both Han Chinese Buddhism and Tibetan Buddhism, making the mountain a common pilgrimage destination for both traditions. Tibetan Buddhists also consider it a sacred place where Manjushri appears in various forms.

五台山的历程中我看到了很多藏式风格的寺庙。五台山被尊为文殊菩萨的道场。文殊菩萨在汉传佛教和藏传佛教中都受到高度尊崇,使这座山成为汉传佛教和藏传佛教共同的朝圣地。同时藏传佛教徒也认为它就是文殊菩萨显圣的圣地。

During the Yuan Dynasty, Tibetan Buddhism (Lamaism) gained imperial support. The rulers built Tibetan-style temples on Mount Wutai to establish religious unity and strengthen ties with Tibetan Buddhist leaders. The Qing Dynasty actively supported Tibetan Buddhism to maintain control over Tibet, Mongolia, and other Tibetan Buddhist regions. Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong frequently visited Mount Wutai and ordered the construction of Tibetan-style temples like the Guanghua Temple in this photo to promote harmonious coexistence between Han and Tibetan Buddhists.

元朝时期,藏传佛教(喇嘛教)得到了皇帝的支持。当时的统治者在五台山修建了藏式寺庙,确立宗教统一并加强与藏传佛教领袖的联系。后来清朝积极扶持藏传佛教,为了维持对西藏、蒙古等藏传佛教地区的控制。康熙和乾隆皇帝经常游览五台山,并下令修建像照片中的广化寺这样的藏式寺庙,以促进汉藏佛教的和谐共处。

The colorful stupa is the symbol of Tibetan Buddhism temple. It has multiple layers stacked in a gradually tapering form, representing the spiritual ascent toward enlightenment. It is adorned with bright reds, yellows, blues, purple and greens, which symbolize the Five Wisdom Buddhas. The spire begins with a lotus-shaped base, symbolizing purity and spiritual awakening. Above the lotus base, the spire features thirteen golden rings, symbolizing the thirteen stages of Buddhist enlightenment. A golden umbrella-shaped structure sits atop the rings, signifying royal dignity. At the very top of the spire is a flaming jewel, representing the highest state of spiritual awakening.

色彩缤纷的佛塔是藏传佛教寺庙的标志。它有多层以逐渐变细的形式堆叠,代表着精神世界向启蒙的提升。它以鲜艳的红、黄、蓝、紫、绿五色装饰,象征五明佛。尖顶以莲花形基座开启,象征纯洁和精神觉醒。莲花底座之上,塔尖有十三道金环,象征着佛教启蒙的十三重境界。金色的伞形结构坐落在圆环的顶部,象征着皇室的尊严。尖塔的最顶端有一颗燃烧的宝石,代表着精神觉醒的最高境界。

I spent nearly one day in visiting most of the famous temples. Pusading temple was the last one visited in the afternoon. Perched on a high ridge overlooking the valley. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it became a Tibetan Buddhist monastery where Dalai Lamas and Panchen Lamas would stay when visiting Mount Wutai.

This mountain was intertwined with the legend of Lu Zhishen. The Wenshu Monastery in Pusading templeis is where he took refuge as a monk. He is my favorite characters from the classic Chinese novel Water Margin. He’s a man of contradictions — a powerful warrior with a tender heart. I admire his unwavering sense of justice and it is a great honor for anyone to have a friend like him.

我花了将近一天的时间参观了五台山大多数所有著名的寺庙。菩萨顶寺是下午参观的最后一座寺庙。它坐落在高高的山脊上,俯瞰着整个山谷。明清时期,这里成为达赖班禅喇嘛游览五台山时下榻的寺院。

这座山亦与鲁智深有所羁绊。菩萨顶寺的文殊院就是他出家避难的地方。他是中国古典小说《水浒传》中我最喜欢的人物。剑胆琴心的鲁智深可以说是一个非常矛盾的人。不过我特别钦佩他坚定不移的正义感,有他这样的朋友对任何人来说都是莫大的荣幸。

Pusading Temple

Pusading Temple is famous for its dazzling golden-roofed halls of Manjushri, which shimmer in the sunlight, symbolizing divine imperial honor. The roofs are built in the Tibetan Buddhist style, featuring layered eaves and upturned corners, similar to the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Pair of deer is placed atop the main hall’s roof, these sacred symbols represent Buddha’s first sermon at Deer Park. The gold-plated tiles and finials symbolize spiritual enlightenment and the wisdom of Manjushri.

菩萨顶寺以其金顶大文殊殿而闻名,这个大殿在阳光下闪闪发光,象征着皇家的荣耀。屋顶采用藏传佛教风格,重檐翘角,与拉萨的布达拉宫类似。主殿屋顶上放置着一对鹿,这种神圣的符号代表佛陀在鹿野苑首次步道说法。镀金的瓷砖和尖顶则象征着精神启蒙和文殊菩萨的智慧。

From the Hall of Manjushri, visitors can enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view of Mount Wutai’s temple-studded landscape. It was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. From the terraces of Pusading, my eyes are drawn to the countless temples scattered across the mountain slopes. In the distance, Tayuan Temple’s Great White Stupa rises majestically, its pristine silhouette standing out among the temple clusters.

从文殊殿,游客可以欣赏到五台山中寺庙林立的壮丽全景。这也是我此次旅行中印象最为深刻的场景之一。从菩萨顶的观景台上,我的目光被散布在山坡上的无数寺庙所吸引。远处,塔院寺的大白塔巍然耸立,其古朴的轮廓在寺庙群中格外醒目。

Looking beyond the temple complex, the vast five sacred peaks of Mount Wutai—stretch into the horizon, each bathed in golden sunlight under the blue sky. The rolling green valleys and deep ravines carve through the landscape. The distant echoes of Buddhist chants and the rhythmic ringing of temple bells float through the air, blending seamlessly with the gentle rustling of pine trees in the breeze.

向寺庙群外远眺,五台山五座雄伟的圣峰蜿蜒伸向地平线,在蓝天下沐浴着金色的阳光。连绵起伏的绿色山谷和深邃的沟壑贯穿天地。远处传来佛门吟唱的细密回声和寺院钟声的韵律在空中飘荡,与微风松树轻柔的沙沙声融为一体。

For my trip in Wutai Mountain, I cannot help but feel a profound sense of reverence and awe. The golden stupa tops, endless mountain peaks, and tranquil monastic life create a view that is not only visually stunning but deeply spiritual. Whether bathed in morning light or embraced by twilight mist, the soothing scenes capture the essence of Buddhist devotion and the eternal beauty of nature, making it an unforgettable experience for all who visit.

对于这次五台山之行,回忆之初不禁怀有深深的敬畏之情。金色的塔顶、连绵不断的山峰、宁静的寺院生活,一笔一划营造出的景色不仅令人惊叹而且颇具宗教精神意义。无论是沐浴在晨曦还是暮色薄雾中,这些舒缓兼具信念的画卷都体现了佛教虔诚的精髓和自然的永恒之美,为所有游客带来难忘的体验。

A UNESCO Gem: The Spiritual and Artistic Wonders of Yungang Grottoes


世界文化艺术遗产的瑰宝:云冈石窟

The Yungang Grottoes stand as one of China’s most magnificent examples of ancient Buddhist art, carved into the sandstone cliffs near Datong in Shanxi Province. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries during the Northern Wei Dynasty, showcases a remarkable fusion of art, religion, and cultural exchange. Comprising 45 main caves and over 51,000 intricate statues, the Yungang Grottoes reflect the early spread of Buddhism along the Silk Road, blending Indian, Central Asian, and traditional Chinese artistic styles. The towering Buddha statues, detailed reliefs, and carvings within these caves transport visitors back to an era of profound spiritual devotion and artistic achievement.

云冈石窟是中国古代佛教艺术最恢弘的典范,这个世界文化遗产的历史可以追溯到五世纪和六世纪的北魏时期。它开凿于山西省大同附近的砂岩悬崖上,展示了艺术、宗教和文化交流的非凡融合。云冈石窟由 45 个主要洞窟和 51,000 多尊精美雕像组成,反映了佛教沿着丝绸之路的早期传播历史,并且融合了印度、中亚和中国各地的传统艺术风格。这些高耸的佛像、细致的浮雕和雕刻仿佛将游客带入了一个充满虔诚和艺术感的神奇世界。

Set against a rugged natural backdrop, the grottoes not only capture the essence of ancient craftsmanship but also tell the story of a pivotal period in Chinese history when Buddhism flourished as a unifying force. The Northern Wei Dynasty (386–534 CE) was a pivotal period in Chinese history, marking a significant cultural and political transformation. Initially established by the Tuoba clan, a nomadic people of Xianbei origin, the dynasty later underwent a comprehensive process of Sinicization (adoption of Chinese culture) to consolidate its rule over a predominantly Han Chinese population. Over centuries, intermarriage between Xianbei and Han Chinese resulted in the genetic assimilation of the Xianbei people. The Xianbei were absorbed into the Chinese ethnic and cultural identity gradually.

云岗石窟背靠崎岖的自然山脉,它不仅体现了中国古代工艺的精髓,还讲述了历史上佛教作为一股统一力量蓬勃发展的故事。北魏王朝(公元 386-534 年)是中国历史上的一个关键时期,标志着重大的文化和政治转型。该王朝最初由鲜卑游牧民族拓跋氏建立,后来经历了全面的汉化,以巩固其对以汉族人口为主的统治。几个世纪以来,鲜卑人和汉人的通婚导致了鲜卑人的同化。鲜卑人也逐渐融入中华的民族文化认同之中。

The Yungang Grottoes are located near the city of Datong, in Shanxi Province. They are situated about 16 kilometers west of Datong’s city center, along the southern foothills of the Wuzhou Mountains. I visited this famous world cultural heritage by bus on July 6th, 2023. The public transport system in China is well established and most attractive sites are easily accessible by public transport. This is the entrance of this monument, a specially designed hall with ancient architectural style.

云冈石窟景区位于山西省大同市附近。它们位于大同市以西约16公里处,沿着武州山脉南麓而建。 2023年7月6日,我乘坐公交车就轻松参观了这个著名的世界文化遗产。如今中国的公共交通系统十分完善,大多数极具吸引力的景点都可以通过公共交通轻松到达。这里就是景区的入口,一个专门设计的颇具古风的大厅。

At the entrance, there is statue of Yun Yao. He was a key figure in the construction and artistic direction of the Yungang Grottoes during the Northern Wei Dynasty. As a prominent Buddhist monk, he played a leading role in promoting and overseeing the carving of the grottoes. The Yungang Grottoes were constructed as an imperial initiative under the Northern Wei Dynasty to demonstrate devotion to Mahayana Buddhism which was introduced to China via the Silk Road.

入口处有云曜师傅的雕像。他是北魏时期云冈石窟建设和艺术指导的关键人物。作为佛教高僧,他在推动和监督石窟开凿方面发挥了主导作用。云冈石窟是北魏皇帝为了表达对通过丝绸之路传入中国的大乘佛教的虔诚信仰而兴建的。

After the Northern Wei court officially embraced Buddhism, Yunyao was entrusted with the task of coordinating the creation of these massive cave temples. His influence is reflected in the grandeur and spiritual essence of the grottoes, as well as their intricate carvings and statues.

北魏王朝正式皈依佛教后,云曜师傅被委以协调建造这些大型石窟的任务。他的影响体现在石窟的宏伟规模以及复杂的雕刻和雕像上的精神象征意义。

This is the example of one tower sculpture during the Northern Wei Dynasty. The Northern Wei Dynasty rulers used Buddhism to legitimize their authority, presenting themselves as Chakravartins (wheel-turning monarchs). Supporting Buddhism aligned the dynasty with divine and moral authority, reinforcing their position as rightful rulers.

这是北魏时期的塔雕。北魏统治者例如胡太后利用佛教来使自己的权威合法化,统治者自称为转轮圣王。支持佛教则使王朝的神圣和道德权威保持一致,巩固了他们作为合法统治者的地位。

The construction of pagodas became a significant expression of Buddhist devotion. Pagodas in this era were influenced by Indian stupa designs, but they gradually adopted a more vertical, multi-tiered structure to align with Chinese aesthetic preferences. Some pagodas had octagonal bases, a design seen as both practical and symbolic in Buddhist cosmology.

佛塔的建造成为对佛教虔诚信仰的重要体现。这个时代的佛塔受到印度佛塔设计的影响,但逐渐采用更加垂直、多层的结构,以符合中国人的审美偏好。一些宝塔有八角形底座,这种设计在佛教宇宙论中被视为既实用又具有象征意义。

On the route towards the grotto, there is a small man-made lake, providing reflective surfaces that mirror the grottoes and surrounding cliffs. The lake is surrounded by gardens, walking paths, and wooden bridges, offering visitors picturesque spots for relaxation and photography. Pagodas, pavilions, and stone carvings are strategically placed near the water, enhancing the Buddhist cultural theme of the area.

在通往石窟的路上,有一个人工小湖,湖面的反光反射着石窟和周围的悬崖。湖周围环绕着花园、步道和木桥,为游客提供风景如画的休息场所和摄影点。塔、亭、石雕巧妙地临水而建,彰显景区的佛教文化主题。

The grottoes are carved directly into the sandstone cliffs along a stretch of approximately 1 kilometer.
The cliff side is uneven and natural, but it has been transformed by the carved entrances, niches, and facades that house the caves, creating a dramatic visual effect. The grottos appear to rise from the mountain, with the larger caves recessed deep into the rock, while smaller niches dot the cliff face like a honeycomb.

这些石窟居然直接开凿在砂岩悬崖上,悬崖总共绵延约 1 公里。自然形成的悬崖起伏不平,面貌已被精细雕刻的壁龛和洞穴外墙所替换,产生了千疮百孔般奇特的视觉效果。这些石窟似乎从山中拔地而起,大型的石窟完全深入岩石中,而较小的壁龛则像蜂窝一样点缀在悬崖表面。

As I moved closer to the wall, I could observe clearly many caves with stone reliefs and ornamental carvings, including niches housing small Buddha statues. These carvings highlight the spiritual significance of the grottoes and showcase a fusion of Indian, Central Asian, and early Chinese Buddhist art styles. The sandstone cliffs have been weathered over time, giving the exterior an aged look now.

当我慢慢靠近墙壁时,我可以清楚地观察到众多带有石制浅浮雕和装饰的洞穴以及装有小佛像的壁龛。这些雕刻凸显了石窟的宗教象征意义,展示了印度、中亚和早期中国佛教艺术风格的融合。随着时间的推移,这些砂岩悬崖大多已经风化,现在的外观呈现出沧桑的历史感。

Cave 3

There are more than 20 caves in this scenic area and travelers can go through them slowly one by one. The Linyan Temple Cave is the third cave. It is named after the temple that once existed in its vicinity. The main Buddha statue of 10 meters height in this cave is a central focus, flanked by smaller figures of bodhisattvas, disciples, and guardian deities. This statue looked friendly and seemed to say hi to all the visitors. The carvings display a transition in artistic style, blending Indian Gandharan influences with early Chinese Buddhist art. Unfortunately the color of the surface has been eroded severely.

景区内有20多个洞窟供游客一一慢慢游览。临岩寺洞为第三洞。它以其附近曾经存在的寺庙而得名。洞内的主佛像高 10 米,占据C位,两侧是较小的菩萨、弟子和护法神像。这座大雕像看上去很友善,似乎在向所有的游客行礼。这些雕刻充分展示了魏晋时代艺术风格的转变,将印度犍陀罗的影响与中国早期佛教艺术融为一体。遗憾的是这些表面颜色已被严重侵蚀。

Cave 5

The Cave 5 is a very impressive cave. It has a rectangular layout, with the main Buddha of height 17 meters seated at the center facing the entrance. The Buddha of Gandharan style is depicted in a serene, meditative posture, embodying compassion and enlightenment. Surrounding the main Buddha are several bodhisattvas, disciples, and heavenly kings carved into the walls, each symbolizing different aspects of Buddhist philosophy. The open space within the cave is designed to inspire awe, allowing me to fully absorb the spiritual and artistic significance of the Buddha statue. This is the highest and largest Buddha statue of the Yungang grotto.

五号洞窟是一个非常令人印象深刻的洞穴。它的平面呈长方形,主佛高17米,端坐正中,面向入口。犍陀罗风格的佛陀以安详、冥想的姿势呈现,体现了我佛慈悲和心灵觉悟。主佛周围的墙壁上刻有几位菩萨、佛家弟子和天王,分别象征着佛教哲学的不同层次。洞内如此开阔的空间令人心生敬畏,让我充分领略佛像的宗教和艺术意义。这也是云冈石窟最高大的佛像。

The statues inside remain remarkably intact. The art style and the color combination really left me a deep impression. The ceiling was intricately decorated with lotus motifs and flying apsaras (celestial beings) in dynamic poses, symbolizing joy and divine presence. The cave walls are adorned with vivid bas-reliefs depicting Buddhist sutras and stories from the life of the Buddha, such as his enlightenment and teaching journeys.

洞穴里面的雕像保存十分完好。美术风格和各种色彩组合给我留下了深刻的印象。洞顶装饰着精美的莲花图案和动态的飞天像,象征着佛家欢乐和神圣的存在。而洞壁上装饰着生动的浅浮雕,描绘了佛经轶事和佛陀一生的启蒙和传法之旅的故事。

It shows the exceptional craftsmanship, with innovations in stone carving and iconography. Techniques such as high-relief carving, detailed mural painting, and layered sculptural arrangements illustrate the advanced artistry of the period.

这里也展示了当时卓越的工艺以及石雕和图像绘画方面的创新。高浮雕、细致的壁画、分层的雕塑排列等技术展现了这一时期先进的艺术水平。

Cave 6

This is the entrance cave 6. There are some elaborate carvings adorning the entrances of the larger caves like cave 5 and 6. These carvings depict guardians and heavenly kings. The walls are painted with images of the Eighteen Arhats, nine on each wall, holding different instruments and standing among the sea of ​​clouds. The guardians are often depicted with fierce expressions, dynamic postures, and ornate armor, contrasting with the calm demeanor of the Buddha. Cave 6 has been well-preserved compared to other caves in the complex, thanks to its relatively sheltered location.

这是第 6 窟的入口。第 5 窟和第 6 窟等较大洞穴的入口处陈列有一些精美的雕刻。这些雕刻描绘了佛家守护者和护法天王。墙壁上另外绘有十八罗汉的图像,每面九个罗汉,各个手持不同的法器,立在云海之中。护法天王雕刻通常表情凶猛,姿势动感,盔甲华丽,与佛陀平静的神态形成鲜明对比。由于位置相对隐蔽,与整个建筑群中的其他洞穴相比,第 6 窟保存特别完好。

Cave 6

The figure in the cave 6 is a large, seated statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, radiating an air of wisdom and compassion. The Buddha is depicted in the teaching mudra (gesture), symbolizing his role as a spiritual teacher who imparts the path to enlightenment. The bas-reliefs and carvings are extremely extraordinary. They cover nearly every surface of the cave, depicting key moments from the life of Shakyamuni Buddha. Bodhisattvas stand alongside the Buddha, symbolizing compassion and the aspiration to help all sentient beings achieve enlightenment. They are elaborately adorned with jewelry, crowns, and flowing robes, reflecting their role as semi-divine beings who bridge the human and celestial realms.

第六窟内供奉释迦牟尼佛的大坐像,它的全身都散发着智慧与慈悲的气息。佛陀雕塑以传教手势雕刻,象征着他作为传授觉悟之道的精神导师的角色。这些浅浮雕华丽非凡,它们几乎覆盖了洞穴的每个表面,描绘了释迦牟尼佛一生的重要时刻。菩萨与佛并肩而立,象征着佛家的慈悲心和普度众生成佛的祈愿。精心装饰着珠宝、王冠和飘逸的长袍,鲜明地体现他们作为连接人类和天界的半神人物的独特性。

At the left side of this photo, it is a massive central pillar. Visitors walked around this pillar in admiration of the statues. They were carved on all sides of walls, richly decorated with scenes of Buddhist cosmology and stories. The reliefs depict dozens of stories about the life of Sakyamuni. They narrate the story of Siddhartha Gautama, a prince of the ancient Indian Sakya clan, who was born with extraordinary intelligence. He was deeply troubled by meaning of life, and decided to become a monk to look for personal liberation. He overcame all kinds of difficulties, defeating the demon army, and finally attained enlightenment and became the Sakyamuni.

在这张照片的左侧,有一个巨大的中央石柱。游客们绕着这座柱子走来走去,欣赏着这些雕像。墙壁的四面都雕刻着佛教宇宙观和佛经的场景。浮雕描绘了数十个有关释迦牟尼一生的故事。它们讲述了古印度释迦族王子悉达多·乔达摩的故事,他天生具有非凡的智慧同时对生命的意义深感困扰,便决定出家寻求个人精神解脱。后来他克服了种种困难,打败了魔军,最终证悟成佛,成为释迦牟尼。

The cave walls are covered with rows of small Buddha statues, known as thousand-Buddha motifs.
These figures are arranged in orderly tiers, symbolizing the omnipresence of the Buddha and the infinite nature of his teachings. Each figure is meticulously carved, despite their small size, and their uniformity emphasizes the collective spiritual power of the Buddhist community.

洞壁上还布满了成排的小佛像,它们被称为千佛图。这些人物排列有序,象征着佛陀的无所不在和佛法的无边本质。每尊佛像虽小,但都经过精心雕刻,其统一性强调了佛教界的集体精神力量。

The walls and ceilings of the cave feature numerous apsaras, or celestial beings, in mid-flight. These figures, often carved in dynamic poses, appear to float above the central statues, scattering flowers and playing musical instruments. In addition to apsaras, the cave features lokapalas (world protectors) and devas (celestial beings), depicted in graceful poses. For people who are interested in art of Buddhism, this place is really a treasure-house.

洞穴的墙壁和天花板上有许多飞天。这些人物通常以动态姿势雕刻,似乎漂浮在中央雕像上方,洒落鲜花并演奏乐器。除了飞天之外,洞穴中还有洛卡帕拉斯(世界保护者)和优雅的天神的雕塑。对于对佛教艺术感兴趣的人来说,这里真是一个宏大的宝库。

The Yungang Grottoes feature a wide array of niches, from tiny alcoves to large, open niches housing monumental statues. Early niches were influenced by Indian and Central Asian styles, emphasizing simplicity and symmetry. Later the niches evolved to include Chinese aesthetic elements, such as pagoda-inspired frames and detailed ornamentation. The integration of local culture led to unique styles, blending Indian iconography with Chinese craftsmanship. These niches are unique artist element. They are small but profound architectural and artistic features that encapsulate the spiritual essence of Buddhist devotion.

云冈石窟里有各种各样的壁龛,从微小的壁龛到装有纪念性雕像的大型开放壁龛。早期的壁龛受到印度和中亚风格的影响,强调简洁和对称。后来,壁龛演变为例如宝塔风格等包含中国美学元素的形式。文化的融合形成了这种独特的风格,将印度风格图案与中国工艺融为一体。这些壁龛是一种独特的艺术家元素。它们虽小,但意义深远且据艺术特色,浓缩了佛教的精神信仰。

There are many colored Buddhist statues in the Yungang Grottoes. The statues were painted with natural pigments, including red and yellow ochres derived from iron oxide, white kaolin clay for highlights.
azurite and malachite for blue and green tones. In that period, people could not manufacture dyes using chemical methods. Purple and gold are rare pigments, so they are not used so much in Yungang Grotto. In Chinese culture, red symbolized vitality and sacred energy, blue was associated with calmness and the infinite nature of the cosmos. Colors brought lifelike qualities to the statues, making them more relatable and engaging for devotees.

云冈石窟内有许多彩色佛像。这些雕像是用天然颜料绘制的,这些土颜料包括从氧化铁中提取的红色和黄色赭石,以及白色高岭土。蓝铜矿和孔雀石可呈现蓝色和绿色色调。那个时期,人们还不能用化学方法制造染料。紫色和金色在古代一直是稀有颜料,所以在云冈石窟中使用得不多。在中国文化中,红色象征着活力和神圣,蓝色则与平静和宇宙的无限本质相关。这些颜色为雕像带来了栩栩如生的品质,使它们对信徒来说更容易产生共鸣和吸引力。

Cave 13

I have visited more than 20 caves and I will only highlight the caves with most impressive statues. Cave 13 is dedicated to Manjushri Bodhisattva, the embodiment of wisdom in Buddhism. The central figure is Manjushri which is often depicted riding a lion, representing the power of wisdom to overcome ignorance. The statue is elegantly proportioned, with a serene expression, intricately carved robes, and elaborate adornments that reflect the high artistic standards of the Northern Wei period. Due to the huge size of the main statue, the Bodhisattva’s raised right hand could not be suspended in the air, so the Yungang craftsmen “tailor-made” a four-armed warrior to hold up the huge arm. This design solved the problem of supporting the huge arm.

我总共游览了超过20 个洞穴,此文只会重点介绍那些拥有令人印象深刻的洞穴。云岗第13窟供奉着佛教智慧的化身文殊菩萨。文殊菩萨在佛家典籍里经常被描绘成骑着狮子,代表着智慧战胜无知的人物形象。这座造像比例优雅,神态安详,衣袍雕工精细,装饰精美,体现了北魏时期的高艺术水平。由于主像体型巨大,菩萨举起的右手无法悬浮在空中,于是云冈工匠“量身定做”了一个四臂武士来托起巨大的手臂。这样的设计解决了支撑巨大手臂的问题。

cave 19

Several huge caves are exposed directly in air. Cave 19, known as the Baosheng Buddha Cave houses the second-largest Buddha statue in the entire complex. The Buddha statue of height 16.8 meter is colossal, with their serene faces and intricate details still visible despite centuries of exposure. It is carved directly into the cliff face. Exposed statues face greater risks of damage from natural elements and human activities. Efforts are ongoing to protect and preserve these cultural treasures, including stabilization of the cliff face and protective measures to prevent further degradation.

还有几个巨型洞穴则直接暴露在露天。第 19 窟被称为宝胜佛洞,供奉着整个建筑群中第二大的佛像。这座佛像高 16.8 米,体态巨大,尽管经历了几个世纪的风吹雨打,但其宁静的面容和复杂的雕塑细节仍然清晰可见。这个佛像直接雕刻在悬崖面上。裸露的雕像面临着更大的自然因素和人类活动损坏的风险。目前专家正在通过稳定悬崖面努力保护这些文化宝藏并采取保护措施防止风化。

Cave 20

The most magnificent, iconic and representative statue must be the one in the cave 20. The seated Buddha is monumental, standing approximately 13.7 meters tall, with a serene expression. The Buddha’s face exudes tranquility and compassion, characterized by an elongated, oval shape, narrow eyes, and a slight smile. The both hands rest on the lap, symbolizing meditation and inner peace. The Buddha is framed by a carved halo (aureole) adorned with intricate patterns of lotus flowers and celestial motifs, symbolizing divinity and enlightenment.

整个云冈石窟最宏伟、最具标志代表性的雕塑当属第20窟的造像。整个佛像气势磅礴,高约13.7米,神态安详。佛陀的脸庞呈椭圆形,眼睛细长,面带微笑,散发着宁静和慈悲的气息。双手放置在腿上如同打坐的姿势,象征着冥想和内心的平静。佛陀的周围是雕刻的光环,装饰着复杂的莲花图案和星体图案,象征着神性和启蒙。

This is the panoramic view of the Buddha statue. Flanking the central Buddha are smaller statues of disciples, depicted with detailed robes and jewelry. The robe is really an artistic marvel, with finely carved folds that flow naturally over the body, showcasing the sculptor’s attention to detail and mastery of stone-carving techniques. The cave appears as an extension of the rock itself, seamlessly blending human artistry with the natural world.

这是佛像的全景图。中央佛像的两侧是较小的佛家弟子雕像,这些雕像清晰描绘出精致的袈裟和珠宝。佛像上的袈裟雕刻确实是一件艺术瑰宝,雕刻精美的褶皱在身体上自然流动,展示了雕塑家对细节的关注和对石雕技术掌握的如火纯青。这座洞窟如同岩石的延伸,将人类艺术与自然世界无缝地融合在一起。

Walking through this area felt like stepping into a living history book. The moment I oberseved it, the grandeur of the carved cliff face took my breath away. Towering statues of serene Buddhas gazed down with an air of wisdom, their expressions calm yet commanding. It was as if the past was alive, speaking silently through these ancient masterpieces.

漫游至此就如同卷入一本活生生的青史竹简。当我注视到它的那一刹那,雕像的的宏伟让我惊叹不已赞不绝口。如此高大的佛像安详地俯视众生,神情平静而威严依存。这一刻仿佛已逝去的岁月重新复活,依托在这些古老的杰作中无声地诉说着北魏王朝的昔日时光。

The artistic style of Cave 20 reflects a fusion of Indian Gupta influences (rounded faces, gentle expressions) and early Chinese aesthetics (elongated features, focus on symbolism). Its open structure allows natural light to illuminate the statues, creating dynamic shadows that enhance the sense of depth and divine radiance. Every visitor will take a memorable photo at the platform in front of the statues. Standing before the Grand Buddha was really a stunning experience, as its immense scale and intricate details create an overwhelming sense of spiritual awe. Human being looked so tiny at this moment.

第20窟的艺术风格体现了印度笈多王朝对中原文化的影响,这座雕像圆润的脸庞、温柔的表情和早期中国美学特征拉长的五官、注重象征意义等融合。另外其开放式结构使自然光充分照亮局部雕像,产生动态阴影,并增强深度和神性光辉。每位参观云岗石窟的游客都会在雕像前的平台上留下难忘的照片。站在大佛前确实是一种震撼的体验,它巨大的规模和错综复杂的细节营造了一种压倒性的精神敬畏感,人类在这一刻显得是如此的渺小。

In the west of cave 20, there are some small caves which were built in the later period of North Wei Dynasty. Many of them were not conserved very well. Unlike the earlier caves adorned with intricate reliefs and detailed carvings, the small caves often feature minimalist designs. Due to their smaller scale, many of these caves have suffered significant erosion and degradation over time. The sandstone of the Yungang Grottoes is inherently soft and porous, making the smaller caves particularly vulnerable to erosion. Some caves have small side niches or inscribed panels, but they lack the complex architectural elements and spatial divisions seen in earlier caves. The small caves reflect a localization of Buddhist art as the religion became more integrated into Chinese society.

第20窟西侧有一些北魏后期所建的小窟。其中许多都没有得到很好的保存。与早期的洞穴装饰着复杂的浮雕和细致的雕刻不同,这些小洞穴通常采用简约的设计。由于规模较小,许多洞穴随着时间的推移遭受了严重的侵蚀和风化。云冈石窟的砂岩本质上柔软且多孔,使得较小的洞穴特别容易受到侵蚀。有些小洞穴里有小的侧壁龛或石刻板,但缺乏早期建造的洞穴中复杂的建筑元素和详细的空间划分。随着北魏后期佛教越来越融入中国社会,这些小洞穴则反映了佛教艺术的本土化。

Cave 39

There are totally 40 caves here and needs around 2 to 3 hours to finish all of them. At the heart of the cave 39 is a five-level stone pagoda carved entirely from the rock, symbolizing Mount Sumeru, the cosmic center in Buddhist cosmology. These pagodas are often multi-tiered with overhanging eaves, mimicking the design of wooden pagodas. The five levels represent spiritual ascension and the five elements in Buddhist philosophy: earth, water, fire, wind, and space. As I walked around it, I could see the miniature Buddha reliefs seated in niches. The delicate carvings and faded traces of paint really invited closer observation.

云冈石窟景区共有40个洞穴,大约需要2至3个小时才能全部游览完。第39窟的中心是一座完全由岩石雕刻而成的五层石塔,象征着佛教宇宙学的中心须弥山。这些塔通常是多层的,有悬檐,模仿传统木塔的设计。这五个层次代表了精神境界的逐步提升和佛教哲学中的五种元素:地、水、火、风和空。我绕它一周清晰看到壁龛里端坐着的微型佛像浮雕。这些精致的雕刻和褪色的油墨痕迹需要细品。

An upper-level platform allows visitors to explore the smaller caves after number 20 that is carved higher up along the cliff face. These caves were built as Buddhism spread and became more localized. Smaller caves catered to individual or small group meditation rather than grand communal ceremonies. The initial construction of the Yungang Grottoes involved significant state resources, reflecting the Northern Wei court’s commitment to promoting Buddhism. Over time, as the dynasty’s priorities shifted to the new capital Luo Yang, the scale of cave construction decreased, leading to smaller and simpler designs.

景区还搭建了一个上层平台供游客探索 20 号洞穴之后的较小洞穴,这些洞穴沿着悬崖面开凿,地势更高。这些洞穴是随着佛教的传播而后建造,并且风格变得更加本地化。较小的洞穴适合个人冥想,而不适用盛大的官方仪式。云冈石窟的初期建设动用了大量的国家资源,体现了北魏王朝弘扬佛教的决心。随着时间的推移,以及王朝的重点逐步转移到新都洛阳,洞穴建筑群的规模逐渐缩小。


As my journey through the Yungang Grottoes came to an end, the overwhelming sense of wonder remained etched in my heart. Each cave and each statue told a story of the spread of Buddhism along the Silk Road, the political aspirations of the Northern Wei Dynasty, and the universal human pursuit of enlightenment. Beyond their artistic splendor, the Yungang Grottoes is also a symbol of resilience of Chinese culture, which have endured the ravages of time, weather, and human impact, still standing proudly as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for travellers from all around the world to visit.

当我的云冈石窟之旅结束时,那份震撼人心的感官刺激仍深深地萦绕在我的心头。这里每一个洞窟、每尊雕像都细致阐述了佛教沿着丝绸之路传播的故事、北魏王朝的政治诉求以及佛家子弟追求启蒙的故事。除了艺术的辉煌,云冈石窟也是中华文明顽强的象征,它经历了时间的洗礼、风雨的摧残和人类的影响,如今仍然顶天立地作为世界文化遗产供全世界游客顶礼膜拜。