The trip of Mekong River

湄公河之旅

Before I travelled to Vietnam, I have read the semi-autobiographical novel “The Lover” (“L’Amant”) written by Marguerite Duras. The protagonist, a young French girl, meets her Chinese lover on a ferry crossing the Mekong River. It marks the beginning of their intense love story. The river is frequently mentioned throughout the novel. It reflects the transient nature of their relationship and the passage from adolescence to adulthood. The Mekong River symbolizes the fluidity and impermanence of life and relationships. It mirrors the inner turmoil and emotional currents of the characters, especially the young girl’s complex feelings towards her lover and her family. This novel has left me some light impressions of the Mekong River.

游览越南之前,我读拜过玛格丽特·杜拉斯的半自传体小说《情人》。小说中主人公是一位年轻的法国女孩,在湄公河的渡船上邂逅了她的华裔情人,从此开始了他们热血沸腾的爱情故事。小说中多次提到的湄公河是他们短暂的激情关系以及她从青春期到成年过渡的见证。奔腾的湄公河象征着生命和人际关系的流动性和无常性,反映了人物内心的动荡和女孩对情人和家人的复杂感情的变化。这部小说给我留下对湄公河的些许印象。

In 2018 December, I had chance to visit the Can Tho city in the south of Vietnam and viewed this river with my eyes. Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta region. The Mekong Delta is known for its intricate network of rivers, canals, and streams. Its extensive waterways are essential for irrigation, fisheries, and daily transportation. The river cross through Can Tho and flew into the South Sea. This area of water reminds me of the Fontaine in the game Genshin Impact which is surrounded by numerous rivers as well.

2018 年12月,我有幸参观了越南南部的芹苴市并亲眼目睹了这条河流。芹苴是湄公河三角洲地区最大的城市。湄公河三角洲以其错综复杂的河流、运河网络而闻名。其广泛的水道对于灌溉、渔业和日常交通起到至关重要的作用。这条河穿过芹苴,一直流入南海。这片水域不由地让我想起了游戏《原神》中的枫丹,它的周围也遍布众多河流。

Life in Can Tho is deeply intertwined with the river. Many local residents live in stilt houses along the banks, and daily activities such as commuting and socializing often take place on the water. The Mekong River contributes to the region’s rich culinary traditions. Can Tho’s cuisine include fresh fish, shrimp, and an abundance of fruits and vegetables grown in the delta. One day’s trip could make me experience the local life fully.

芹苴的生活与河流密不可分。许多当地居民就住在河岸边的棚屋里,一些如通勤和社交等日常活动也经常在水上进行。湄公河也影响了该地区丰富的烹饪传统。芹苴的美食包括新鲜的鱼虾以及湄公河三角洲种植的水果和蔬菜。一天的短途旅行可以让我充分体验当地人的生活。

This is one outdoor restaurant on the way of my trip. The delta’s rich soil and extensive waterways create an ideal environment for a wide variety of plants. Lotus and water lily is widely grown in ponds. Its flowers, seeds, and roots are used in cuisine and traditional medicine. In the Mekong Delta, traditional huts are built in many areas. Roofs are typically made from thatch, using leaves from nipa palm or coconut palm. These huts are often built on stilts to protect against flooding.

这是我旅途中偶遇的一家户外餐厅。湄公河三角洲的土壤肥沃,水道宽阔,为各种植物创造了理想的生长环境。荷花和水百合在池塘中广泛生长。它们的花、种子和根可用于烹饪和传统医药。在这片三角洲,许多地区都建有传统小草屋。屋顶通常使用棕榈树或椰子树的叶子以及茅草制成。这些小屋通常建在高架柱子上以防洪水。

Coconut trees are cultivated extensively along the coastal areas. Coconut water is a popular drink in Vietnam. Street vendors and farmers often sell whole coconuts with a straw inserted. Young green coconuts have sweet and nutritious water. Coconuts in this region are big and have really good quality.

三角洲沿海地区广泛种植椰子树。椰子水是越南的流行饮料。街头小贩和农民经常出售插着吸管的整颗椰子。图中这种嫩绿的椰子水甜美而营养丰富。这片地区的椰子普遍个头大品质非常好。

Pho is a traditional Vietnamese noodle soup. Originating in Northern Vietnam in the early 20th century, it has become a staple of Vietnamese cuisine. Pho is made with flat rice noodles. The broth made from beef bones or chicken is the heart of pho. Sliced or shredded chicken or beef are added together with special aromatics include ginger, star anise, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. Bean sprouts and sliced white onions are used as garnish. Lime wedges are served on the side for squeezing into the soup. Pho is a very popular food in Vietnam, and it is commonly found at street food stalls and small restaurants.

粉是一道传统的越南面汤。它起源于20世纪初的越南北部,现已成为越南的主食。河粉由扁米粉制成。用牛骨或鸡肉熬制的汤是制作粉的核心所在。将切片或切丝的鸡肉或牛肉与生姜、八角、肉桂、丁香和小豆蔻等特殊香料一起加入,另外用豆芽和切片白洋葱点缀。旁边配有青柠,食客可挤入汤中。粉是越南非常受欢迎的食物,在街头小吃摊和小餐馆里随处可见。

My boat trips last a few hours focusing on specific attractions of nearby villages and the small islands in the center of Mekong river. The best time to visit this river is during the dry season, from November to April, when the weather is cooler and more pleasant. Such a trip is a unique and enriching experience that offers a glimpse into the natural beauty of the Mekong Delta.

我的游船之旅总共是几个小时,重点游览附近村庄和湄公河中心小岛等景点。游览这条河的最佳时间一般是11 月至 4 月的旱季,这段时间的天气更凉爽宜人。这种旅行是一种独特的体验,可以一睹湄公河三角洲的自然美景。

I took such a simple boat to the center island of Mekong Delta. On the east of the island is the South Sea. Although it was dry season, the water flow at the mouth of Mekong Delta was not reduced. There was a large distance between both sides of riverbanks and the wide river looked like a huge lake.

我乘着这样的简易渡船来到了湄公河三角洲的中心岛,岛的东面就是南海,虽然此时是旱季,但湄公河三角洲入口处的水流却没有减少,两岸间隔的距离很大,宽阔的河面看上去就像一个巨大的湖泊。

The island is surrounded by lush vegetation typical of the Mekong Delta, including mangroves, coconut palms, and various fruit trees. The island’s inhabitants are likely engaged in traditional livelihoods such as fishing, farming, and small-scale trade. Life here is closely tied to the rhythms of the river. There are many small canals on the island, and I rented a small boat to travel all through it.

河心岛周围长满了包括红树林、椰子树和各种果树等湄公河三角洲典型的茂密植被。岛上居民一般从事例如捕鱼、耕种和小规模贸易等传统生计。这里的生活与奔流的河水相辅相成。岛上有许多小运河,我租了一艘小船在运河中穿梭。

Small-scale farming, particularly of rice and fruit, is common on islands in the delta. The fertile soil and abundant water supply make it an ideal location for agriculture. Visitors could taste local foods, especially fresh seafood and tropical fruits here.

三角洲岛屿上普遍存在种植稻米和水果等小型农业。肥沃的土壤和充足的水源使这片土地成为农业开发理想之地。游客也可以在这里品尝新鲜的海鲜和热带水果等当地美食。

This kind of street restaurants, often referred to as “quán ăn” or “street food stalls,” are a quintessential part of Vietnam’s culinary scene. Simple plastic stools and low tables are the norm. The ambiance is casual and lively, with the sounds of sizzling food and lively chatter filling the air.

这种街边餐馆通常被称为“quán ăn”,是越南美食的代表。这种街边美食摊一般只有简单的塑料凳子和几张矮桌子。整体氛围轻松而热闹,空气中弥漫着食物的滋滋声和热闹的闲聊。

When I returned to Can Tho in the afternoon, the sunset over the Mekong River was a breathtaking, offering a picturesque view of the river’s vast expanse landscapes. As the day drew to a close, the sky transformed into a canvas of golden hues. The calm waters of the Mekong River glisten with the last rays of the sun, and boats and riverbanks are silhouetted against the colorful backdrop.

下午我回到芹苴市区,湄公河上的落日美轮美奂,河水辽阔,风景如画。一天的末尾时分,整个天空变成了一片金色的画布。平静的湄公河水面在夕阳的余晖中闪闪发光,船只和河岸在色彩斑斓的背景下映衬得熠熠生辉。

I stayed in Can Tho for two days. The water market particularly the Cai Rang Floating Market, is one of the most famous and vibrant attractions in the Mekong Delta. This market offers a unique glimpse into the traditional way of life in southern Vietnam, where waterways are the main thoroughfares for commerce and daily activities. The market is only accessed by boat. The market starts as early as 5:00 AM and is most active around 7:00 AM. so I had to get up before sun rise to visit it.

我在芹苴总计呆了两天。Cai Rang 水上市场是湄公河三角洲最著名、最热闹的景点。这个市场让游客可以领略越南南部的传统生活方式,水路是当地商业和日常活动的主要通道。游客只能乘船前往水上市场。市场早上5:00就开始营业,最繁忙的时候通常是早上7:00,所以我必须在日出前就起床去游览这个地方。

Sellers operate from boats, which are packed with a variety of goods. Each boat typically specializes in a specific type of product, such as fruits, vegetables, rice, or household items. Sellers display their goods on long poles (called “cây bẹo”) to attract buyers from a distance. Some boats serve as floating kitchens, offering traditional Vietnamese breakfast dishes such as pho.

商贩们通常在船上经营,船上装满了各种商品。每艘船一般专门销售例如水果、蔬菜、大米或家居用品等特定类型的产品。商贩用长杆上的标志(称为“cây bẹo”)展示他们的商品类型,吸引远处的买家。有些船则用作水上厨房提供例如粉等越南传统早餐。

For me, the meaning of travel includes always exploring the new things. I wish to eat and visit every corner of this world like the traveler and Paimon in the game Genshin Impact. This time, visiting the riverside villages and water markets provided a stark contrast to the busy cities. Here, life moved at a gentler pace. These experiences offered me insight into the daily lives of the people who call the Mekong Delta home, who used to exist in my imagination from the novel ‘The Lover’.

对我而言,旅行的意义在于不断探索新鲜事物。我希望像《原神》中的旅行者和派蒙一样,走遍吃遍这个世界的每个角落。这次我参观了湄公河边的村庄和水上市场,这里生活节奏更缓慢与繁忙的城市形成了鲜明的对比。这片土地和这里的人们曾经存在于我阅读小说《情人》后的想象中,而这次的经历则让我亲身深入了解了湄公河三角洲的日常生活。

From Haiphong to Halong: Capturing the Beauty of Halong Bay

探寻下龙湾的美

Haiphong is a bustling port city in northern Vietnam, known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and strategic significance. As one of Vietnam’s major industrial centers, Haiphong boasts a blend of colonial architecture and modern city development. Haiphong is also a gateway to the stunning Cat Ba Island and the UNESCO-listed Halong Bay, making it an essential stop for travelers exploring northern Vietnam.

海防是越南北部一个繁华的港口城市,以其悠久的历史、充满活力的文化和战略意义而闻名。作为越南的主要工业中心,海防融合了殖民时期的建筑和现代城市发展。这座城市也是通往美丽的吉婆岛和被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的下龙湾的门户,是各国游客探索越南北部的必经之地。

I visited this city in 2019 because of a business trip. In January, Hai Phong experiences cool and relatively dry weather with temperature around 19 °C. The city had shorter daylight hours with a mix of sunny and cloudy days. Obviously, it is not a good period for travel. I lived beside of the Hai Phong Museum. This yellow building itself is an architectural landmark, reflecting colonial influences that were prevalent during the French occupation of Vietnam. It houses an extensive collection of artifacts, photographs, and documents that chronicle the history, culture, and social development of Hai Phong.

2019年 我因出差来到了这座城市。1 月份的海防天气干燥阴冷,气温约为19°C。日照时间较短,晴天和阴天交替出现。显然这不是一个旅行的特别好时期。我住在海防博物馆旁边。这座黄色建筑本身就是一座地标,反映了法国占领越南期间的殖民影响。它收藏了大量文物、照片和文件,记录了海防的历史、文化和社会发展。

When I travelled in Vietnam, I noticed that many buildings constructed during the French colonial period like this in the photo were painted yellow. The color gave buildings a distinguished and stately appearance that perhaps aligned with French colonial tastes. The yellow paint often used was lime-based, which was durable and provided a protective layer against the tropical weather. It reflects sunlight well and helps in keeping the buildings cooler.

我在越南旅行时就注意到,许多法国殖民时期建造的建筑(如照片中的这座建筑物)都漆成了黄色。这种颜色使建筑物具有尊贵庄严的外观,似乎符合法国殖民者的品味。这种常使用的黄色油漆是石灰打底,这种油漆经久耐用,可以抵御热带天气。它能很好地反射阳光,有助于保持建筑物凉爽。

This building is a good example of the architecture of French colonial period as well. The station’s architecture retains colonial influences, characterized by its classic yellow facade and functional design. ‘Ga’ represents the meaning of train station in Vietnamese. It is close to the French word ‘Gare’ which means train station as well. Hai Phong Train Station serves as the terminus for several important rail routes, including the Hanoi-Hai Phong line.

这座建筑也是法国殖民时期建筑的典范。车站的建筑保留了殖民时期的影响,其特点是经典的黄色外墙和实用的设计。“Ga”在越南语中代表火车站。它与法语单词“Gare”相近,后者也是火车站的意思。海防火车站是包括河内-海防线等几条重要铁路线的终点站。

Hai Phong lies along the coast of the Gulf of Tonkin and it serves as a gateway to several popular tourist destinations, including Halong Bay. I hired a private car which took me directly to the harbor of Halong Bay. There are multiple ticket counters where visitors can purchase tickets for various cruises and one day boat tours. The best way to experience the beauty of Halong Bay is by taking a cruise.

海防位于北部湾沿岸,是通往下龙湾等多个热门旅游地的门户。我租了一辆私家车,直接把我送到了下龙湾的港口。那里有多个售票柜台,游客可以在那里购买各种游轮和一日游的船票。体验下龙湾美景的最佳方式是就是乘坐图中这种游轮。

Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is renowned for its stunning natural beauty. The bay covers an area of approximately 1,553 square kilometers and features around 1,600 limestone islands and islets, many of which are topped with lush vegetation. The dramatic karst landscape, crystal-clear waters, and mysterious caves make Halong Bay a must-visit destination for travelers. It is so well-known for the tourists that even this day is super misty, many tourists still flock to the harbor and visit it by cruises.

下龙湾是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产,以令人惊叹的自然风光而闻名。海湾面积约1,553平方公里,拥有约1,600个石灰岩岛屿和小岛,其中许多岛屿上长满了茂密的植被。壮观的喀斯特地貌、清澈的海水和神秘的洞穴使下龙湾成为游客来越南必打卡的目的地。即使这天雾气弥漫,众多游客仍然慕名而来峰涌至港口,乘船游览下龙湾。

In the morning, the temperature is a bit lower, and the dense mists block most of my view but I think it is important to keep a good mood during the travel. I chose to take a cruise of half day trip. When the boat left the harbor and entered into the bay, gradually I could see the clear shape of the mountains.

早上气温稍低,浓密的雾气遮挡了大部分视线,不过旅途中保持好心情特别重要。我选择坐了半日游船,当游船离开港口进入海湾时,渐渐地我能看到了山的轮廓。

The mountains of Halong Bay, primarily composed of limestone karsts, create a stunning and unique landscape that has captivated visitors for centuries. These formations are the result of millions of years of geological processes, making Halong Bay one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in the world.

下龙湾的山主要由喀斯特石灰岩组成,形成了令人惊叹的独特景观,几个世纪以来一直吸引着众多游客。这些地貌是数百万年地质运动的结果,使下龙湾成为世界上最非凡的自然奇观之一。

The karsts here are extremely similar to the scene of Guiling in China. Karst is actually a type of landscape that is characterized by distinctive landforms and features resulting from the dissolution of soluble rocks, such as limestone, dolomite, and gypsum. These kind of small rock mountains are often blanketed in dense tropical vegetation, including shrubs, ferns, and flowering plants. The greenery clinging to the rocky surfaces adds a layer of vibrant color to the gray and white limestone.

这里的喀斯特地貌与中国桂林的景色极为相似。喀斯特地貌是一种由可溶性岩石(如石灰岩、白云岩和石膏)溶解后形成的独特的地貌特征。这类小岩山通常被茂密的包括灌木、蕨类植物和开花植物等热带植被覆盖。攀附在岩石表面的绿色植物为灰白色的石灰岩增添了一抹鲜艳的色彩。

Karst landscape consists of rocks and mountains of different sizes and strange shapes. It is formed primarily through the process of chemical weathering. When rainwater, which absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to become slightly acidic, percolates through the ground, it reacts with the soluble rocks and gradually dissolves them. Over time, the continued dissolution of the rock leads to the development of caves and mountains.

喀斯特地貌由大小不一、形状奇特的岩石和山脉组成。它主要通过化学风化过程形成。当雨水从大气中吸收二氧化碳并变成弱酸性时,它渗透到地面,与可溶性岩石发生反应并逐渐溶解它们。随着时间的推移,岩石的不断溶解导致洞穴和山脉的形成。

These karsts are characterized by their steep, rugged peaks that rise abruptly from the emerald waters. Their shapes vary from slender spires to massive, rounded mounds, creating a varied and dynamic landscape. The mountains are always shrouded in mist, creating a mystical and almost surreal atmosphere. Although I don’t like the misty day, I have to admit that the mist weavings through the karsts are really special, enhancing the otherworldly beauty. The scenery here was like an ink brush painting created by Chinese painter Mi Fu.

喀斯特风景显著的特点是陡峭崎岖的山峰从翠绿的水中陡然升起。它们形状各异,从细长的尖顶到巨大的圆形土丘,形成了各式变化多端、充满活力的景观。群山笼罩在薄雾中,营造出一种神秘如仙境的氛围。虽然我不喜欢雾蒙蒙的天气,但不得不说,雾气笼罩的喀斯特地貌真的很独特,有一种超凡脱俗的美感。这里的风景就像米芾创作的一幅水墨画一般。

The waters of Halong Bay are renowned for their striking emerald green color. This kind of hue is a result of the bay’s shallow depths, the reflection of lush vegetation, and the high content of phytoplankton in the water. The bay is always protected from strong winds and waves by the surrounding limestone karsts and islands. The tranquil water surface was mirror-like, reflecting the towering karsts, creating a mesmerizing visual effect.

下龙湾的海水以其夺目的翠绿色而闻名。这种色调是由于海湾水深较浅、茂密植被的倒影以及水中浮游植物含量高而造成的。周围的石灰岩和岛屿始终保护着海湾免受强风和海浪的侵袭。平静的水面如镜,倒映着高耸的喀斯特岩,营造出震撼的视觉效果。

There are many small islands in the Halong Bay. Dau Go Island is situated in the southwestern part of Halong Bay. It is accessible by boat and is often included in Halong Bay cruise itineraries. The cruise took around 6 hours including the time to travel around this island.

下龙湾有许多小岛。Dau Go 岛位于下龙湾西南部,可乘船前往,也被列入下龙湾游轮行程中。我乘坐的游轮旅游总共需要6个小时,其中包括绕岛游览的时间。

Dau Go Cave on this island is one of the largest and most historically significant caves in Halong Bay. It has significant historical importance. It is also named the “Cave of Wooden Stakes” because, according to legend, during the 13th century, General Tran Hung Dao hid wooden stakes in the cave. These stakes were later used in the famous Battle of Bach Dang River to defeat the invading Mongolian army by driving them into the riverbed to damage enemy ships. Dau Go Cave is well-lit with lights that highlight the most striking formations and impressive features of stalactites and stalagmites.

这座岛上的溶洞是下龙湾最大并具历史意义的洞穴。它被称为 “木桩洞”,根据传说,在13世纪,陈兴道将军在这个洞穴中藏有木桩。这些木桩后来在著名的白藤河战役中被插入河床以破坏敌舰并以此击败入侵的蒙古军队。这个溶洞灯光明亮,突出了引人注目的钟乳石和石笋的构造特征。

From the viewing platform, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of Halong Bay, including its emerald waters, surrounding islands, and iconic limestone karsts and took an unforgettable photo. Standing here, I really wondered at this kind of geological miracle.

游客可以在观景平台欣赏到包括翠绿的海水、周围的岛屿和标志性的石灰岩等下龙湾的全景,并拍下令人难忘的照片。站在这里我真的对这种地质奇迹发出由衷的惊叹。

Many rocks of unique shapes have become iconic symbols of the bay. These bizarre and unique rock formations are the result of complex geological processes over millions of year. The cruise took the visitors near the stone and stopped, leaving enough time to take photos. This is the Fighting Cock Rock. These twin rocks resemble two roosters facing off against each other. They are one of the most iconic images of Halong Bay and are often used in promotional brochures for the area.

许多形状独特的岩石已成为下龙湾的标志。这些奇异而独特的岩石由数百万年来复杂地质过程形成。游船将游客带到石头附近并停下来,为我们留出足够的时间拍照。这个是斗鸡岩。这两块岩石类似于两只相互对峙的公鸡。它们是下龙湾最具代表性的标志,经常用于这里的旅游宣传手册中。

This lonely stone is called Incense Burner. It is shaped like an incense burner, standing alone in the water, making it a striking sight against the backdrop of the bay. For most of the time of this trip, I was enjoying the landscape of the different rocks assembled in the bay which were the masterpiece of the nature.

这块孤零零的石头叫香炉石,形状像一个香炉独自矗立在水中,在海水的映衬下显得格外引人注目。这次旅行的大部分时间,其实都在欣赏海湾中各式各样岩石的景观,它们绝对是大自然鬼斧神工创造的杰作。

The cruise provided visitors lunch as well. Vietnamese cuisine is close to Chinese food and is known for its fresh ingredients and special taste sauces. Rice is the most popular staple food and people prefer to use chop sticks. Fresh herbs like basil, mint, and lemongrass, along with vegetables such as bean sprouts, cucumbers, and lettuce, are essential for adding flavor and freshness. Fish Sauce known as nuoc mam, is a fundamental ingredient that adds a salty, savory depth to many dishes. Spring rolls and hotpot are the two popular dishes in Vietnam. It was a great pleasure to taste the local food together with viewing the beautiful sceneries outside of the windows.

乘坐的游船还为游客提供午餐。越南菜肴与中国菜十分相近,以新鲜的食材和独特的酱汁而闻名。米饭是当地最受欢迎的主食,人们也更喜欢用筷子用餐。罗勒、薄荷和柠檬草等新鲜香草以及豆芽、黄瓜和生菜等蔬菜经常用来增加菜品的风味和新鲜度。鱼露(当地称为 nuoc mam)是一种当地很基本的配料,可为许多菜肴增添咸味和鲜味。春卷和火锅也是越南流行的菜肴。品尝当地美食并欣赏窗外美丽的风景简直是一种享受。

The happy moments always passed extremely fast. The cruise returned back to the harbor in the afternoon. As my journey through Halong Bay came to a close, this serene bay with its unique charm have left a special mark on my heart. Each moment spent in this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a testament to the Earth’s unparalleled beauty and resilience. Visiting such a place of breathtaking natural wonders can be deeply restorative and spiritually uplifting.

快乐的时光总是转瞬即逝。下午游轮返回港口。当我在下龙湾的旅程结束时,这个宁静的海湾以其独特的魅力在我心中留下了特殊的印记。在这个世界遗产度过的每一刻都让我认识到地球这个星球无与伦比的美丽和韧性。游览这样一个令人惊叹的自然奇观确实可以让我精神焕发,找到旅行的意义。