The Sound of Water and Leaves Shadows in Minoh

箕面的水声与树影

After spending time in the lively streets of Osaka, I decided to take a break from the crowds and travel to Minoh, a peaceful town surrounded by forested hills just outside the city. Compared to the vibrant streets of Namba and Dotonbori, it felt like another world. My pace slowed, the air became fresher, and the city noise gradually faded away, replaced by the rustling of leaves in the wind and the tranquility of nature.

在大阪熙熙攘攘的街头漫步之后,我决定暂时远离城市的喧嚣,前往箕面。箕面是一座宁静的小镇,坐落在大阪城郊,四周被森林覆盖的山丘环抱。与难波、道顿堀的繁华街道相比,这里仿佛是另一个世界。脚步慢了下来,空气也变得更加清新,耳边的城市喧嚣渐渐远去,取而代之的是风吹树叶的沙沙声和大自然宁静的气息。

After I get off from the train, I arrived at this small town in the north of Osaka. What I particularly enjoyed about Minoh was its tranquility. Compared with Osaka’s famous tourist attractions, Minoh receives far fewer international travelers, and even the popular walking trail can feel surprisingly peaceful. There were moments when I could simply walk along the forest path without being surrounded by tour groups or crowds, but only the swaying shadows of the trees and the rustling sound of foot accompanying me.

下了火车,我便来到了大阪北部的这座小镇。箕面最让我心旷神怡的,便是它难得的宁静。与大阪那些著名的旅游景点相比,这里接待的国际游客少得多,就连热门的徒步路线也显得格外安静。有时,我甚至可以独自沿着林间小路漫步,四周不见旅行团的喧闹,也没有熙熙攘攘的人群,只有树影婆娑和脚下的沙沙声相伴。

The journey to Minoh was not about checking off famous landmarks. Instead, it was about enjoying the simple experience of walking through the forest, listening to the flowing water, watching the leaves move gently in the breeze, and taking my time to appreciate the scenery. Sometimes, the most memorable places on a journey are not the ones filled with people, but the quiet ones where I can slow down and truly feel my surroundings.

箕面之旅并非为了打卡名胜古迹,而是为了享受漫步林间的简单乐趣。聆听潺潺流水,欣赏微风轻拂树叶,放慢脚步,细细品味沿途的风景。有时,旅途中最令人难忘的地方并非人潮涌动之处,而是那些静谧的角落,在那里我可以放慢脚步,真正感受周围的一切。

By December, I had already missed the best time to see Minoh’s famous maple leaves. The brilliant reds and oranges of autumn had largely disappeared from the trees, leaving only memories of the season that had just passed. The ground was covered with a thick carpet of fallen leaves, their faded reds, oranges and browns scattered across the forest path.

到了十二月,我已经错过了观赏箕面著名红叶的最佳时节。秋日里绚丽的红、橙色彩大多已经从枝头褪去,只留下些许对那段绚烂时光的回忆。取而代之的,是铺满地面的厚厚落叶,褪去鲜艳色彩的红、橙与褐色交织散落在林间小路上。

The December morning was a little cold. I could feel the crispness of winter in the air, but the sunlight was warm. Golden rays filtered through the remaining green leaves above me, falling softly onto the path and warmed my face. Looking down at the leaves beneath my feet, I felt that each step made a soft, gentle sound, as if the forest was quietly accompanying my walk. Without the crowds of the autumn season, I could walk slowly and listen to the water, the rustling leaves and the occasional sound of birds.

十二月的清晨有些寒意。空气中弥漫着冬日的清冽,但阳光却温暖宜人。金色的阳光透过头顶残存的绿叶,轻柔地洒落在小径上,温暖着我的脸庞。低头看着脚下的落叶,我感觉每一步都发出轻柔的声响,仿佛整片森林都在静静地陪伴着我。没有了秋季熙熙攘攘的人群,我可以放慢脚步,聆听潺潺的流水声、沙沙的落叶声和偶尔传来的鸟鸣。

As I walked through Minoh Park, I passed several old temples that were quiet and almost empty, with very few tourists around. The peaceful surroundings made the journey feel unbothered and unhurried. Being able to walk alone through the temples and forest gave me a sense of solitude and allowed me to fully appreciate the beauty of nature.

漫步箕面公园,我经过了几座古老的寺庙。寺庙静谧而空旷,几乎看不到人影,游客也寥寥无几。这样的宁静,让整个旅程多了一份悠闲与从容,没有匆忙赶路的感觉。独自一人穿行于古寺与森林之间,也让我能够静下心来,尽情领略箕面自然之美。

Hidden deep within the forest, the ancient temple seems to belong to an isolated world. The weathered wooden beams, etched by time, stood silently beneath the pale winter sky. Moss-covered stones were scattered throughout the woods, quietly disappearing into the dense undergrowth. A thin mist swirled among the treetops and blurred the boundary between heaven and earth, immersing the entire forest in a tranquil and mysterious atmosphere.

隐匿于森林深处的古老神庙,仿佛属于另一个与世隔绝的世界。斑驳的木梁历经岁月侵蚀,泛着深沉而幽暗的色泽,静静伫立在苍白的冬日天空下。覆满青苔的石块散落林间,悄然隐没于茂密的灌木丛中。薄雾缭绕在树梢之间,朦胧了远近的景物,也模糊了天地的界限,整个山林仿佛沉浸在一片静谧而神秘的氛围之中。

I walked all through the main walking route follows the Minoh River through the forest. The path was gentle and enjoyable, making it possible to appreciate the scenery without the feeling of a difficult mountain hike. Along the way, the sound of running water accompanied the walk, while tall trees created a cool and refreshing canopy overhead.

我沿着主步道一路走完,这条步道沿着箕面川穿过森林。步道平缓易行,让人可以尽情欣赏沿途美景,而不会感到是在进行艰苦的登山活动。一路上,潺潺的流水声伴我前行,高大的树木在头顶形成一片凉爽宜人的树荫。

Himeiwa

Along the forest trail in Minoh Park, there is a remarkable giant rock known as Himeiwa. Unlike an ordinary boulder, Himeiwa looks as though it has been dramatically cut in half by a giant blade. A narrow passage runs between the two enormous pieces of rock, just wide enough for a person to squeeze through. There is also a charming local belief associated with Himeiwa. Passing through the narrow opening is traditionally said to bring the blessing of children, giving the rock a spiritual meaning beyond its unusual appearance.


在箕面公园的林间小径上,矗立着一块名为“姬岩”的奇特巨石。与寻常岩石不同,它仿佛被一把巨刃从中劈开,分成两半。两块巨石之间留下一道狭窄的缝隙,仅容一人侧身通过。关于姬岩,当地还流传着一个颇为迷人的传说:据说穿过这道狭窄的通道,便能得到子嗣的祝福。这段古老传说也为它增添了几分神秘色彩。

Minoh Waterfall

One of the highlights of Minoh Park is Minoh Waterfall, a beautiful 33-metre cascade at the end of the trail. The waterfall is especially impressive after walking quietly through the forest for some time. It is not an enormous waterfall, but its setting makes it particularly beautiful. Surrounded by tall trees and steep forested slopes, the falling water was perfectly integrated into the landscape rather than standing apart from it. I stood there for a while, listening to the continuous sound of water falling over the rocks. The walk through the forest made the waterfall feel like a natural reward at the end of the trail.

箕面公园的一大亮点,便是位于步道尽头的箕面瀑布,落差达33米。在森林中静静漫步了许久之后,眼前的瀑布显得格外令人印象深刻。它或许算不上气势恢宏,却因周围的自然环境而别具魅力。瀑布被高大的树木和层层山林环绕,与四周的景色融为一体,而不是突兀地出现在山间。我在瀑布前驻足良久,静静聆听水流倾泻而下的声音。一路穿过森林的旅程,也让眼前的瀑布更像是一份藏在山林深处的天然馈赠。

After spending some time at Minoh Waterfall, I continued my journey toward Katsuoji Temple, one of the most famous temples in the Minoh area. Instead of returning along the same forest trail, I climbed up from the steps of waterfall toward the main road. The change in scenery was gradual. The narrow forest path gave way to a wider mountain road lined with tall trees. The road gradually led me deeper into the mountains toward Katsuoji. Although the walk was uphill in places, I enjoyed taking my time and appreciating the changing landscape.

在箕面瀑布稍作停留后,我继续前往箕面地区最著名的寺庙胜尾寺。我没有沿着原路返回,而是从瀑布的台阶拾级而上,来到主路。沿途的景色逐渐变化。狭窄的林间小路变成了一条两旁绿树成荫的宽阔山路。这条路引领我深入群山,最终抵达胜尾寺。虽然有些路段是上坡,但我很享受这段悠闲的旅程,细细品味着沿途不断变化的风景。

Katsuoji Temple

Eventually, I arrived at the Sanmon of Katsuoji Temple, famous for its thousands of Daruma dolls and its long history of being associated with victory and good fortune. Surrounded by dense forest and carefully landscaped gardens, the temple felt peaceful and secluded, despite being one of the best-known places to visit in the Minoh area.

最终,我抵达了胜尾寺的山门,这座寺庙以数千尊达摩不倒翁以及象征胜利和好运的悠久历史而闻名。寺庙四周环绕着茂密的森林和精心设计的花园,尽管是箕面地区最著名的景点,却依然给人一种宁静幽僻的感觉。

Ponds, bridges, stone paths and carefully maintained gardens blend naturally with the forested mountains. In December, the atmosphere was particularly peaceful. Many of the maple leaves had already fallen, covering the ground with a layer of autumn color. According to temple tradition, the temple was founded in 727 by two brothers, Zenchū and Zensan, who built a small hermitage in the mountains. The temple’s connection with victory also has an interesting origin. During the reign of Emperor Seiwa, the emperor was seriously ill, and prayers were offered at the temple for his recovery. According to tradition, the emperor eventually recovered, and the temple’s spiritual power became associated with victory and overcoming difficulties.

池塘、桥梁、石径与精心维护的庭园巧妙地融入山林之中,浑然天成。十二月的胜尾寺格外宁静祥和。许多枫叶已经飘落,为大地铺上一层淡淡的秋色。据寺院传说,胜尾寺由善秋与善山两兄弟于公元727年创建。两人在山中修建了一座小小的隐修所,也成为这座寺庙最初的起点。胜尾寺与“胜利”的渊源同样颇为有趣。清和天皇在位期间,天皇身患重病,人们纷纷来到寺庙祈福,希望天皇能够早日康复。传说天皇最终痊愈,自此,胜尾寺的灵验便逐渐与“胜利”以及战胜困难联系在一起。

What immediately caught my attention was the extraordinary number of Daruma dolls throughout the temple grounds. These traditional Japanese dolls are symbols of determination and perseverance. Their round bodies and striking faces can be seen sitting on steps, beside pathways, on shelves and among the gardens. Some are large and impressive, while others are tiny enough to fit in the palm of a hand. Walking through the temple grounds felt almost like entering a world of Daruma. Instead of seeing just a few traditional ornaments, I encountered them everywhere I looked. Their presence gave the temple a playful character that contrasted beautifully with its quiet mountain setting.

最先吸引我目光的,是寺庙里随处可见的达摩不倒翁。这些传统的日本人偶象征着坚韧不拔、百折不挠的精神。它们圆滚滚的身躯配上栩栩如生的表情,几乎遍布寺院的每个角落:有的坐在台阶上,有的摆放在小路旁,有的整齐地排列在架子上,还有一些小巧玲珑,甚至可以握在掌心。漫步在寺院之中,仿佛走进了一个充满达摩的世界。它们并非只是点缀庭院的零星装饰,而是随处可见、形态各异地出现在我的视线里。这些达摩为古老寺院增添了一份活泼的气息,也与周围幽静的山林形成了有趣的对比。

The Daruma has large eyes, thick eyebrows and moustache which are traditionally associated with Bodhidharma (Daruma). At Katsuoji Temple, it has a special connection with the temple’s reputation for victory and success. Visitors often buy Daruma when praying for success in an examination, or a competition. What makes Katsuoji particularly fascinating is the sheer number of Daruma scattered throughout the temple grounds. Visitors offered Daruma in designated areas, so the dolls gradually accumulate across the gardens, steps and temple buildings. This creates a very distinctive scene: hundreds or even thousands of red Daruma seemingly watching over the temple from every corner. It is one of the things that makes Katsuoji unlike most other traditional temples in Japan.

达摩不倒翁有着醒目的大眼睛、浓密的眉毛和胡须,这些特征传统上都与菩提达摩,也就是“达摩祖师”联系在一起。在胜尾寺,达摩不倒翁更与寺庙保佑胜利与成功的传统紧密相连。许多游客会在考试、比赛之前购买达摩不倒翁,祈求获得好运与胜利。而胜尾寺最令人印象深刻的,莫过于寺内数量众多、无处不在的达摩不倒翁。游客会将许愿后的达摩供奉在寺内指定的地方,随着时间推移,这些不倒翁逐渐聚集在花园、台阶和寺庙建筑的各个角落。放眼望去,成百上千个红色达摩不倒翁仿佛从寺庙的每个角落守护着它。这也是为什么胜尾寺与其他传统日本寺庙显得截然不同。

One of the other things that caught my attention at Katsuoji was the vivid red colour of its traditional architecture. Against the deep green of the surrounding mountains, the vermilion buildings, gates and bridges stood out with remarkable intensity, creating a scene that felt both elegant and almost dreamlike. I particularly enjoyed the way Katsuoji combines architecture with nature. The buildings are not isolated monuments surrounded by concrete; they are woven into the mountains, gardens, ponds and forests.

胜尾寺最吸引我目光的,莫过于传统建筑那一抹鲜艳的朱红色。在周围苍翠的群山映衬下,朱红色的建筑、鸟居和桥梁显得格外醒目,营造出一种既典雅又如梦似幻的景象。我尤其欣赏胜尾寺将建筑与自然完美融合的方式。这里的建筑并非孤立的混凝土建筑,而是巧妙地融入山峦、花园、池塘和森林之中。

Among the rocks and greenery, I noticed a miniature vermilion shrine surrounded by red railings. A series of bright red traditional torii gates led toward it, creating a striking contrast with the natural landscape. This was Benzaiten Shrine, dedicated to Benzaiten, a deity associated with water, wisdom, music and the arts. I have found many similar things in the garden. Torii are traditionally associated with Shinto shrines, while Katsuoji itself is a Buddhist temple. Historically, however, Buddhism and Shinto were deeply intertwined in Japan for centuries. Before the Meiji period, it was common for Buddhist temples to contain Shinto shrines and for Buddhist and Shinto practices to coexist.

在岩石与绿意之间,我注意到一座小巧的朱红色神社,四周围着鲜红的栏杆。一连串鲜艳的朱红色鸟居向神社延伸,在苍翠的自然景色映衬下格外醒目。这便是弁财天社,供奉着与水、智慧、音乐和艺术相关的神祇弁财天。在胜尾寺的庭园里,我还发现了许多类似的景象。鸟居通常与神道神社联系在一起,而胜尾寺本身却是一座佛教寺院。明治时代以前的日本,佛教与神道长期相互交融,许多佛寺内设有神社,佛教与神道的信仰和仪式也常常共存。

Benzaiten has a fascinating origin. She developed in Japan from Saraswati, an ancient Indian goddess associated with water, knowledge, music and the arts. When Buddhism spread to Japan, this deity was incorporated into Japanese religious traditions and gradually took on additional associations. She is worshipped in many different forms across Japan. Some places have grown into large religious complexes devoted to her, while other, like this little shrine at Katsuoji, was simply a small sacred corner within a much larger temple.

弁财天有着一段颇为有趣的历史渊源。她最初源自古印度掌管水、知识、音乐和艺术相关的女神萨拉斯瓦蒂。随着佛教传入日本,这位神祇也逐渐被融入日本的宗教传统,并在长期的发展过程中获得了更多不同的象征。如今,弁财天国以各种不同的形式受到日本各地的供奉。有些地方甚至逐渐发展成为专门供奉弁财天的大型宗教场所,而像胜尾寺里的这座小小神社,则只是隐匿于一座规模宏大的佛教寺院之中的一方宁静圣地。正是这种大小不一、形式各异的存在,也让我感受到弁财天信仰在日本传统文化中的广泛影响。

As I walked through Katsuoji, I came across a remarkable display of sake barrels stacked in rows along the hillside. Each barrel carried different Japanese characters, names and colorful logos, representing different sake breweries and producers. These were not simply decorations; sake has long played an important role as a religious offering in Japan, and breweries often donate sake to temples and shrines. The scene was particularly striking at Katsuoji. Hundreds of barrels formed a wall of white, black and red, while the elegant vermilion pagoda rose above them among the trees. This creates a scene with a distinctly Japanese character.

漫步胜尾寺时,我在山坡一侧发现了一幅颇为壮观的景象:成排的清酒酒樽层层堆叠,沿着山坡延伸开来。每只酒樽上都印着不同的日文字符、酒造名称和色彩鲜明的标志,代表着来自不同酒藏和酿酒商的清酒。这些酒樽并不仅仅是装饰。清酒在日本的宗教传统中有着悠久的历史,长期以来被作为供品献给神明和寺社,许多酒造也会向寺庙和神社捐赠清酒。而在胜尾寺,这样的景象尤其令人印象深刻。数百只酒樽层层排列,白色、黑色与红色交织在一起,树木之间,一座典雅的朱红色塔楼从酒樽上方高高耸起,构成了一幅极具日本特色的画面。

Tahōtō

The pagoda called Tahōtō originated in ancient India as the stupa, a structure associated with the Buddha and used to preserve sacred relics. As Buddhism spread through Asia, the stupa gradually evolved into different architectural forms. Japanese pagodas are usually built with three or five storeys, with the five-storey pagoda being particularly iconic. The number five has Buddhist and cosmological significance, traditionally representing the five elements: earth, water, fire, wind and space.

胜尾寺的多宝塔有着悠久而深远的历史渊源。它的建筑形式可以追溯到古印度的窣堵坡(stupa),最初是与佛陀相关的宗教建筑,用于供奉和保存佛教圣物。随着佛教逐渐传播到亚洲各地,窣堵坡的建筑形式也不断演变,并在不同地区发展出各具特色的佛塔样式。日本的佛塔通常建有三层或五层,其中五重塔尤为经典和醒目。五这个数字在佛教思想和传统宇宙观中也具有特殊意义,通常象征构成世界的五大要素:地、水、火、风与空。

During my trip, I noticed a series of unusual stone towers standing beside the old pilgrimage route. These were Gorintō, not simply memorial stones but Chōishi, distance markers for pilgrims and it shew directions for the pilgrims. The oldest surviving ones date back to 1247, to the Kamakura period. Standing beside them with hundred years history, I imagined the pilgrims who had walked this same route more than seven hundred years ago. They would have passed these stones one by one like me. The stones therefore felt like more than historical objects. They were silent witnesses to generations of journeys, prayers and footsteps.

沿着古老的朝圣路线行走时,我注意到路旁矗立着一排造型独特的石塔。这些是五轮塔,但它们并不仅仅是用于纪念或供奉的石碑,其中一些还属于“丁石”(Chōishi),是古代为朝圣者设置的距离标记,用来指引和标示沿途的路程。现存最古老的一批石碑可以追溯到1247年,也就是日本的镰仓时代。站在这些历经数百年风雨的石塔旁,我不禁想象,七百多年前,那些前往寺院参拜的朝圣者也曾沿着同一条道路缓缓前行。他们或许像我一样,一块一块地经过这些石头。这些石塔对我而言已经不只是冰冷的历史遗物。它们更像是一群沉默的见证者,见证了数百年来一代又一代人的旅程、祈愿与脚步。

In this temple, I have seen many ancient-looking Buddhist monuments. A weathered stone pagoda rose on one side, while a tall inscription pillar stood like a silent marker beside the path. The large structure on the left is a stone pagoda, built in the traditional Buddhist architectural form. It has multiple levels with projecting roofs, giving it the appearance of a miniature stone version of pagoda. It is quite different from the Tahōtō behind it. The large stone pillar is an inscription monument with the Japanese name of the mountain Ocho-san (応頂山) and the Japanese name of the temple Katsuō-ji(勝尾寺). Japanese character is similar to the Chinese character even I don’t know any Japanese but I could still recognize them. This sense of familiarity that transcends language and culture makes my travels particularly enjoyable.

在这座寺院里,我还看到了许多带有古朴气息的佛教石造遗迹。一侧矗立着一座饱经风霜的石塔,另一侧则是一根高大的石碑,静静地立在道路旁,仿佛无声地守望着来往的行人。左侧这座大型石塔采用传统的佛教塔建筑形式,层层叠起,每一层都带有向外伸展的屋檐,看起来就像是一座以石头雕刻而成的微型塔。它与后方的多宝塔有着明显不同的建筑风格。旁边高大的石柱则是一座铭文碑,上面刻有这座山的名称応頂山以及寺院的名称勝尾寺。虽然我完全不懂日语,但看到这些汉字时,却有一种熟悉的感觉,仍然能够认出其中许多字。这种跨越语言与文化的熟悉感,也让我在旅行中感到格外有趣。

Hondō

The Hondō(main hall) of Katsuō-ji is a traditional wooden Buddhist main hall characterized by its broad tiled roof, deep eaves, and simple wooden structure. The structure is mainly natural wood, with dark brown and muted tones that blend into the mountain setting. Many people visit the Hondō to pray for success, good fortune, and the fulfillment of their wishes. Standing in front of it, I could feel a solemn and peaceful atmosphere.

胜尾寺的本堂(Hondō)是一座典型的日本传统木造佛堂,以宽阔的瓦屋顶、深深伸出的屋檐以及简朴的木质结构为主要特色。建筑以天然木材为主,整体呈现深棕色和沉静的色调,与周围的山林环境自然地融为一体。许多游客和信众来到这里,祈求事业成功、好运降临以及愿望实现。站在本堂前,我能感受到一种庄严而宁静的气氛。

In winter, Katsuō-ji offers a peaceful panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and forests. The bare trees and evergreen foliage create a quiet, subdued landscape immersed in the clouds, giving the scenery a calm and misty appearance. From the elevated temple grounds, I could appreciate the beauty and tranquility of the winter mountains.

冬日的胜尾寺展现出一幅宁静而开阔的山林全景。远处的群山与森林笼罩在淡淡的云雾之中,光秃的树木与常青的枝叶交错其间,使整个景色显得朦胧而宁静。站在地势较高的寺院庭院中,我可以远眺四周,欣赏箕面山间的冬日之美。

After leaving Katsuō-ji, I stopped at a small local restaurant and had unadon for lunch. The dish consisted of tender grilled eel served on a bowl of warm, fluffy rice and covered with a rich, sweet and savory sauce. The plating of the Japanese food was beautifully arranged and visually appealing. It looked simple, but I could feel the chef’s attention to details. The ingredients were carefully placed in the dish, creating a balanced combination of colors, textures, and shapes. The eel had a slightly smoky flavor from the grilling, while the sauce added a delicious balance of sweetness and saltiness. The simple presentation and cozy atmosphere of the small restaurant made the meal feel especially authentic and comforting after visiting the temple.

离开胜尾寺后,我在附近一家小巧的当地餐馆停下来,享用了一份鳗鱼饭作为午餐。热腾腾、松软的米饭上铺着鲜嫩的烤鳗鱼,再淋上浓郁的酱汁,甜咸交织的味道令人十分满足。日本料理不仅讲究味道,也十分注重食物的摆盘。这份鳗鱼饭看似简单,却能感受到厨师对细节的用心。鳗鱼整齐地铺在米饭上,色泽、质感和形状彼此协调,让人还未品尝便已感受到一份视觉上的愉悦。鳗鱼经过明火烤制,带着淡淡的焦香,而酱汁则为鱼肉增添了丰富的甜味与咸香。小餐馆简单而温馨的氛围,也让参观寺庙后的这顿午餐显得格外惬意。

By the time I returned to Osaka, I felt refreshed by my brief escape to Minoh. Although it was only a short journey, the quiet forests, mountains, hidden temples, and crisp winter air created a peaceful distance from the bustle of the city. Walking alone through the tranquil landscape, pausing at old temples, enjoying the scenery and a simple Japanese meal, I found myself slowing down and appreciating the moment. Minoh reminded me that a journey does not have to be long to be meaningful; sometimes, a few hours surrounded by nature are enough to relax, clear the mind, and continue my jourmey with a renewed sense of calm.

回到大阪时,这趟短暂的箕面之行已经让我重新找回了一份轻松与平静。虽然只是短短几个小时的旅程,但幽静的森林、层叠的山峦、隐匿其中的古寺,以及清冽的冬日空气,都让我暂时远离了城市的喧嚣。独自漫步在宁静的山林之间,偶尔停下来参观古老的寺庙,静静欣赏沿途的风景,再坐下来享用一顿简单的日本料理,我的脚步不知不觉慢了下来,也开始更加专注于眼前的风景与当下的感受。箕面让我明白,一段旅程并不需要很长才会留下意义。有时候,只需几个小时置身于大自然之中,就足以让身心得到放松,也带着焕然一新的心情继续前行。

Osaka: The First Page of My Japan Adventure

大阪:开启一段属于我的日本故事

In December 2025, I embarked on my very first journey to Japan. For years, I had dreamed of exploring a country where ancient traditions coexist with cutting-edge modernity, and the Kansai region was the destination I chose to begin that dream. As the largest city in western Japan and the gateway to the Kansai region, Osaka was the perfect introduction to the country and was the perfect place to experience my first glimpse of Japan. when I arrived, the city welcomed me with its vibrant energy, dazzling streets, and warm, down-to-earth atmosphere.

2025年12月,我开启了期待已久的日本之旅。多年来,我一直梦想着探索这个古老传统与现代科技交融的国度,而关西地区正是我实现这一梦想的起点。作为日本西部最大的城市,也是通往关西地区的门户,大阪不仅是了解日本的绝佳起点,更是我初次领略日本风情的理想之地。抵达大阪后,这座城市以蓬勃的活力、璀璨的街景和热情友好的氛围迎接了我的到来。

Kansai International Airport

On 19 December 2025, I arrived at Osaka’s Kansai International Airport, the gateway to my first journey in Japan. Even before stepping outside the terminal, the airport itself left a lasting impression. Built entirely on a man-made island in the heart of Osaka Bay, it appears to rise gracefully from the sea, surrounded by water in every direction. As the aircraft began its descent, I gazed out of the window and watched the long, slender runway emerge from the shimmering bay, linked to the mainland by a bridge that seemed to stretch endlessly across the water.

2025年12月19日,我抵达大阪关西国际机场,正式开启了我的日本之旅。甚至还未走出航站楼,机场本身便给我留下了深刻的印象。它完全建在大阪湾中央的一座人工岛上,宛如优雅地从海面升起,四周碧波环绕。飞机开始下降时,我透过舷窗望向窗外,只见一条狭长的跑道从波光粼粼的海湾中延伸而出,一座仿佛望不到尽头的大桥横跨海面,将机场与陆地紧紧连接在一起。

Dotonbori

Stepping out of the airport, I was filled with a quiet sense of excitement and anticipation. For my stay in Osaka, I chose a hotel within walking distance of Dotonbori, the city’s most iconic entertainment and shopping district. Staying in the heart of the city meant that everything was only a short stroll away from lively shopping arcades and elegant department stores to countless restaurants serving Osaka’s celebrated local specialties.

迈出机场,我心中涌起一股难以言喻的兴奋与期待。为了这次大阪之行,我特意选择了一家步行即可抵达道顿堀的酒店。作为大阪最具代表性的娱乐与购物区,道顿堀汇聚了这座城市最热闹的街景与最浓厚的烟火气息。住在市中心,一切都近在咫尺,我尽情品尝大阪闻名遐迩的特色美食。

The canal that winds through the district was first excavated in the early Edo period, and over the centuries it has grown into one of Osaka’s most recognizable landmarks. Today, people from every corner of the world gather along its lively waterfront, soaking in the city’s infectious energy and colorful street life. Standing beside the historic canal on my very first evening in Japan, I felt that there could hardly have been a better place to begin my journey.

蜿蜒流经此地的运河最早开凿于江户时代初期,历经数百年的岁月,已发展成为大阪最具代表性的地标之一。如今,来自世界各地的游客汇聚于这条充满活力的河畔,感受着这座城市蓬勃的生机与缤纷多彩的街头风情。在日本的第一个夜晚,我静静地站在这条历史悠久的运河边,心中不禁觉得这里正是开启我日本旅程的最佳地方。

No visit to Osaka would be complete without tasting takoyaki, the city’s most iconic street food and a dish that perfectly captures its lively culinary culture. As I wandered through the bustling streets of Dotonbori, the irresistible aroma of batter sizzling on hot iron griddles filled the air, drawing people towards the countless food stalls lining the streets. Freshly prepared before my eyes, the takoyaki emerged as perfectly round, golden-brown balls with a crisp, lightly toasted exterior. Each one was filled with tender pieces of octopus, finely chopped green onions and crunchy tempura flakes, then generously topped with savory takoyaki sauce, creamy Japanese mayonnaise, a sprinkle of seaweed powder, and delicate bonito flakes that danced in the rising heat. It looked really delicious.

来到大阪,怎能错过章鱼烧?这道堪称大阪最具代表性的街头美食,完美展现了这座城市充满活力的饮食文化。漫步在熙熙攘攘的道顿堀街头,空气中弥漫着铁板上面糊滋滋作响的诱人香气,吸引着络绎不绝的人们走向街边数不胜数的摊位。刚出炉的章鱼烧个个圆润金黄,外皮微焦酥脆,令人垂涎欲滴。每一颗章鱼烧都包裹着鲜嫩弹牙的章鱼块、翠绿的葱花和香脆的天妇罗碎,再淋上浓郁的章鱼烧酱汁与香滑的日式蛋黄酱,撒上细细的海苔粉,最后点缀几片在袅袅热气中轻轻舞动的鲣鱼片,让人尚未入口,便已食欲大开。

From the very first bite, I understood why takoyaki has become synonymous with Osaka. I instantly fell in love with it. The crisp outer layer has a soft, creamy centre that was almost molten. The tender octopus added a satisfying chewiness, while the savory sauce and fragrant toppings brought every bite together in a perfect harmony.

从第一口开始,我就明白了为什么章鱼烧会成为大阪的代名词。我瞬间就爱上了它。酥脆的外皮包裹着柔软绵密的内馅,入口即化。鲜嫩的章鱼带来令人满足的嚼劲,而鲜美的酱汁和香气四溢的配料则将每一口都完美融合,带来和谐的味觉体验。

One of the highlights of my journey was my visit to Osaka Castle Park, a vast green oasis surrounding one of Japan’s most celebrated landmarks. In the heart of the bustling city, the park offered a welcome sense of tranquility. Although it was winter, the park possessed a quiet charm of its own. The crisp air, the stillness of the grounds, and the gentle rustle of bare branches invited me to slow my pace and savor the moment. As I approached the castle, the magnificent white-and-green keep gradually emerged above the treetops. Framed by the surrounding greenery and rising proudly above its massive stone foundations, it was an unforgettable sight.

此次旅程的一大亮点,便是游览大阪城公园。这片广阔的绿色公园环绕着日本最著名的地标之一大阪城。在熙熙攘攘的都市中心,公园带来了一份难得的宁静。即便正值冬季,这里依然散发着独特而静谧的魅力。清冽的空气、幽静的园林,以及寒风吹过光秃树梢时发出的沙沙声,都让我不由自主地放慢脚步,细细品味这难得的宁静时光。当我一步步走近城堡时,雄伟的白绿相间的天守阁渐渐从树梢间映入眼帘。它傲然矗立在巨大的石基之上,被四周苍翠的绿意环绕,构成了一幅令人难以忘怀的景象。

Osaka Castle

The exterior of Osaka Castle is both elegant and majestic, making it one of Japan’s most recognizable landmarks. Rising above its immense stone foundations, the castle’s brilliant white walls stand in striking contrast to its emerald-green roofs, which are adorned with shimmering gold decorations that gleam in the sunlight. Perched at the corners of the rooftops are magnificent gilded shachihoko (mythical creatures with the head of a tiger and the body of a carp). According to Japanese tradition, these legendary guardians possess the power to summon water and protect buildings from fire.

大阪城外观优雅而雄伟,是日本最具代表性的地标之一。城堡巍然矗立于巨大的石基之上,洁白的城墙与翠绿的屋顶相映成趣,屋顶上点缀着金光闪耀的饰物,在阳光照耀下熠熠生辉。屋脊两端矗立着精美的金鯱(Shachihoko),这是一种虎头鱼身的日本神话生物。相传,它们能够召唤水源,守护城堡免受火灾侵袭。

Beyond its beauty, Osaka Castle occupies a central place in Japanese history. It was originally built in 1583 by the powerful warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who sought to unify Japan after more than a century of civil war during the Sengoku Period (1467–1615). Designed as the political and military headquarters of the Toyotomi clan, the castle became one of the largest and most formidable fortresses in the country. Its massive stone walls, broad moats, and strategic location reflected Hideyoshi’s ambition to establish a unified Japan under his rule. Although the present castle is a modern reconstruction completed in 1931 and later restored, it faithfully preserves the appearance of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s original masterpiece.

除了秀丽的景色,大阪城在日本历史上也占据着举足轻重的地位。它最初由战国时代最具影响力的大名丰臣秀吉于1583年开始建造。当时,秀吉刚刚结束了战国时代长达一个多世纪的内战,逐步完成日本的统一。作为丰臣政权的政治与军事中心,大阪城一度成为日本规模最大、最坚固的城堡。高耸的石墙、宽阔的护城河以及优越的地理位置,无不彰显着丰臣秀吉统一天下的雄心壮志。虽然今天的大阪城天守阁建于1931年,并在此后经过多次修复,但它依然忠实再现了丰臣时期的建筑风貌。

The castle now becomes a museum displaying the model of this castle and the history of that period and narrating the ebb and flow of that period. I like to play games like Nobunaga’s Ambition and familiar with the history of Sengoku Period so I really enjoyed the immersive travel experience here as if I visited that period by myself. The castle also witnessed the dramatic conclusion of the Sengoku era. Following Hideyoshi’s death, tensions between the Toyotomi clan and Tokugawa Ieyasu escalated into the Siege of Osaka in 1614 and 1615. Standing on this castle, I could observe clearly the outline of the whole war field around this castle. I imagined the decisive battle determining Japan’s fate, once took place fiercely here.

如今,大阪城已成为一座博物馆,馆内陈列着城堡模型和丰富的史料,生动地讲述着这座名城跌宕起伏的历史。我一直很喜欢《信长之野望》这类以日本战国时代为背景的历史策略游戏,对战国时代的历史也颇为熟悉,因此参观这座城堡时格外投入,仿佛亲身走进了那段波澜壮阔的岁月。然而,这座城堡不仅见证了丰臣氏的辉煌,也见证了战国时代最后的大戏落幕。丰臣秀吉去世后,丰臣氏与德川家康之间的矛盾不断激化,最终爆发了1614年至1615年的大阪之战。站在天守阁上俯瞰四周,我仿佛仍能辨认出当年环绕大阪城的战场轮廓,想象着那场决定日本命运的决战曾在这里激烈上演。

Following the death of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, his young son and heir, Toyotomi Hideyori, remained in Osaka Castle, while Tokugawa Ieyasu, victorious at the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, had already emerged as the most powerful political figure in Japan. Although the Toyotomi clan still possessed immense wealth and the formidable defences of Osaka Castle, Ieyasu regarded them as the final obstacle to bringing the entire country under Tokugawa rule. This rivalry would ultimately culminate in the Siege of Osaka, one of the most decisive conflicts in Japanese history, marking the end of the Toyotomi clan and the beginning of more than two and a half centuries of Tokugawa shogunate rule.

丰臣秀吉去世后,其幼子兼继承人丰臣秀赖继续留守大阪城,而在1600年关原之战中获胜的德川家康,则成为日本最具权势的政治人物。尽管丰臣氏依然拥有雄厚的财富和固若金汤的大阪城防御体系,德川家康仍将其视为完成全国统一的最后一道障碍。双方之间日益加深的权力斗争,最终演变为大阪之战。这场战争不仅导致了丰臣氏的覆灭,也为德川幕府长达两个半世纪的统治奠定了基础,成为日本历史上最具决定性意义的战役。

Today, the castle serves not only as one of Osaka’s most famous landmarks but also as a fascinating museum that brings this dramatic chapter of history to life. As I explored its galleries, I found detailed exhibits dedicated to Hideyori’s loyal generals, their armour and weapons, and the distinctive battle standards that once identified their armies on the battlefield.

如今,这座城堡不仅是大阪最著名的地标之一,更是一座引人入胜的历史博物馆。馆内陈列着丰富而精美的展品,详细介绍了丰臣秀吉麾下的忠臣名将,以及他们曾使用的盔甲、兵器和战场上用于辨识军队的各式战旗。

In the winter of 1614, Tokugawa Ieyasu personally led a vast army to lay siege to Osaka Castle. Rather than relying solely on brute force, he combined overwhelming military strength with calculated strategy to break down the defenders’ resistance. The Winter Campaign ended in a negotiated truce, but the agreement came at a heavy cost for the defenders. Under its terms, the Tokugawa forces dismantled much of the castle’s outer fortifications and filled in large sections of its protective moats, leaving what had once been an impregnable fortress dangerously exposed.

1614年冬,德川家康亲自率领大军围攻大阪城。他并未一味依靠兵力优势,而是将压倒性的军事力量与周密的战略部署相结合,逐步瓦解守军的抵抗。冬之阵最终以双方议和告终,但大阪城却为此付出了沉重的代价。根据和议条款,德川军拆除了大阪城的大部分外部防御工事,并填平了大部分护城河,使这座曾经固若金汤的堡垒失去了最重要的防御屏障,变得岌岌可危。

The Summer Campaign

When hostilities resumed during the Summer Campaign of 1615, the balance of power had shifted decisively. Tokugawa’s forces launched a final offensive that overwhelmed the Toyotomi defenders. Osaka Castle fell, and Toyotomi Hideyori died within the castle, bringing the Toyotomi lineage to an end. With that victory, Tokugawa Ieyasu secured control of Japan, ushering in more than 260 years of peace and stability under the Tokugawa shogunate.

1615年夏之战期间,战事重燃,此时力量对比已发生决定性转变。德川家康的军队发动最后一攻,彻底击溃了丰臣家的守军。大阪城陷落,丰臣秀赖在城内身亡,丰臣家就此终结。凭借这场胜利,德川家康巩固了对日本的控制,开启了德川幕府长达260余年的和平与稳定。

The third floor of the castle museum vividly recounts these two historic campaigns. Through detailed battle maps, scale models, and illustrated displays, I could follow the movements of both armies and understand how the siege unfolded step by step. The historical maps depicted Osaka as it appeared more than four hundred years ago, yet many familiar place names have survived to the present day. Among them was Shitennō-ji, one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples. Seeing a name that still exists on a map from the early seventeenth century made history feel remarkably tangible.

城堡博物馆三楼生动再现了大阪冬之阵与夏之阵这两场决定日本命运的战役。通过详尽的战役地图、精致的比例模型以及图文并茂的展品,我得以一步步追踪双方军队的行军路线,深入了解这场围城战的整个过程。展出的历史地图描绘了四百多年前的大阪城及其周边地区,许多熟悉的地名至今依然沿用。其中就包括日本最古老的佛教寺院之一四天王寺。看到这个跨越四个世纪依然未曾改变的名字出现在十七世纪初的地图上,我仿佛感受到历史是如此地触手可及。

Several renowned Tokugawa commanders played pivotal roles in the Siege of Osaka. Among them was Ii Naotaka, commander of the legendary “Red Devils” cavalry. Famed for the striking crimson armor worn by his warriors, he led his troops with distinction during the campaign and later became one of the Tokugawa shogunate’s most trusted daimyō. Another prominent figure was Honda Tadatomo, the son of the celebrated warrior Honda Tadakatsu, who was widely regarded as one of the greatest generals of his age. Tadatomo earned recognition for his courage and capable leadership on the battlefield, continuing the military legacy of his distinguished family.

在大阪之战中,多位德川幕府的著名将领都发挥了举足轻重的作用,其中就包括有“赤备”之称的名将井伊直孝。他率领麾下身披醒目深红色铠甲的赤备部队奋勇作战,屡立战功,战后更成为德川幕府最受倚重的大名之一。另一位杰出的将领是本多忠朝,他是被誉为“德川四天王”之一的本多忠胜之子。大阪之战中,本多忠朝凭借非凡的勇气与卓越的指挥才能赢得了广泛赞誉,延续了本多家族赫赫有名的武家传统。

Also fighting on the Tokugawa side was Date Masamune, the powerful lord of Sendai. Easily recognized in portraits by his distinctive crescent-moon helmet, Masamune contributed a substantial force to the Tokugawa coalition while maintaining his reputation as one of the most charismatic and influential daimyō of the era. Seeing these familiar names in the museum exhibits brought the history of the siege vividly to life, transforming what I had once known only from books into the stories of real people who chose their fate in the course of Japan’s history.

伊达政宗统率的仙台藩也加入了德川阵营,参与了大阪之战。他头戴标志性的弯月形头盔,在众多历史画像中极具辨识度。政宗不仅为德川联军提供了强大的兵力,也凭借卓越的军事才能和独特的人格魅力,成为战国时代最具传奇色彩和影响力的大名之一。在博物馆里看到这些耳熟能详的名字,这段尘封四百多年的历史仿佛重新鲜活起来。我不再只是从书本中认识这些历史人物,而是真切地感受在历史的滚滚红尘里他们的抉择与命运。

Image of Tokugawa Ieyasu

This is the portrait of Tokugawa Ieyasu who was the winner of this war. The victory at Osaka eliminated the final military challenge to Tokugawa authority. With the Toyotomi clan destroyed, Tokugawa Ieyasu secured the foundation of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which would govern Japan for more than 250 years. Walking through Osaka Castle today, it is remarkable to think that these peaceful grounds once witnessed the battle that ended the Age of Warring States and ushered in one of the longest periods of peace in Japanese history.

这是大阪之战最终胜利者德川家康的肖像。大阪之战的胜利彻底消除了对德川政权的最后一次军事挑战。随着丰臣氏的覆灭,德川家康进一步巩固了德川幕府的统治基础,开启了长达两个半世纪的江户时代。如今漫步于大阪城,令人难以想象,这片宁静祥和的土地曾是硝烟弥漫的古战场,见证了战国时代的终章,也迎来了日本历史上持续时间最长、最和平稳定的时代。

After exploring the castle museum, I made my way to the observation deck at the top of Osaka Castle. From there, a breathtaking panorama unfolded in every direction. The skyline stretched endlessly towards the horizon, where countless skyscrapers, office towers, apartment blocks, and commercial buildings formed a vast sea of steel and glass. The city seemed to pulse with life, its modern skyline standing in striking contrast to the centuries-old castle beneath my feet.

参观完城堡博物馆后,我前往大阪城顶端的观景台。从那里,令人叹为观止的全景尽收眼底。天际线绵延至天际,无数摩天大楼、办公楼、公寓和商业建筑构成了一片浩瀚的钢铁与玻璃海洋。这座城市仿佛充满了活力,现代化的天际线与脚下这座拥有数百年历史的古堡形成了鲜明的对比。

Looking out across the sprawling cityscape, I could truly appreciate how Osaka has evolved over the centuries. What was once a castle town of samurai residences, merchant quarters, and narrow streets has grown into one of Japan’s largest and most dynamic metropolitan centres, home to millions of people. Yet despite its remarkable transformation, Osaka Castle still stands proudly at the heart of the city, serving as a timeless reminder of the events that shaped its history.

眺望着绵延不绝的城市天际线,我才真正体会到大阪数百年来的沧桑巨变。曾经环绕城堡的武士宅邸、商铺林立的街市和纵横交错的狭窄街道,如今早已发展成为日本规模最大、最具活力的都市中心之一,生活着数百万居民。尽管城市面貌已发生翻天覆地的变化,大阪城依然傲然屹立于城市中央,静静见证着这座城市的兴衰更迭。

Standing within Osaka Castle Park today, it was difficult to imagine that these peaceful grounds had once witnessed some of the most decisive battles in Japanese history. I also walked around the outer grounds of the castle, where its immense scale became even more apparent. The keep rises from an enormous stone foundation encircled by broad moats that once formed a formidable line of defence. Many of the granite blocks used to construct the massive walls are among the largest ever quarried, transported, and assembled in Japan.

今天漫步于大阪城公园,很难想象这片宁静祥和的土地,曾经是日本历史上一些最关键战役的战场。我继续沿着城堡外围漫步,近距离欣赏这座雄伟的城池。天守阁高高矗立于巨大的石砌地基之上,四周环绕着宽阔的护城河。这些护城河曾构成大阪城最重要的防御屏障。支撑城墙的花岗岩巨石更令人叹为观止,很多都是日本有史以来开采、运输和组装过的最大石块。

Viewed from across the moat, the castle appeared especially magnificent. It seemed to emerge naturally from its colossal granite base, while its brilliant white walls and emerald-green roofs, adorned with gleaming gold ornaments, shone vividly beneath the pale winter sky. The calm water reflected the castle’s graceful silhouette, creating a scene of quiet beauty.

从护城河对岸望去,城堡显得格外雄伟壮丽。它仿佛从巨大的花岗岩基座中脱颖而出,洁白的城墙和翠绿的屋顶,点缀着闪闪发光的金饰,在冬日苍白的天空下熠熠生辉。平静的河水倒映着城堡优美的轮廓,构成了一幅静谧而美丽的画卷。

A short walk from Osaka Castle stands Hokoku Shrine, a peaceful Shinto shrine dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In front of the shrine stands a striking bronze statue. He is portrayed in formal samurai attire, standing confidently with one hand resting on the hilt of his sword and the other holding a military command baton, symbolizing his authority as one of Japan’s greatest strategists and unifiers. Toyotomi Hideyoshi is a real legend in Japanese history. He rises from humble origins as the son of a peasant to become the most powerful man in Japan. Few figures in Japanese history experienced such a remarkable ascent and obtained such an achievement.

从大阪城步行不远,便可来到丰国神社。这座宁静祥和的神社供奉着丰臣秀吉。神社前矗立着一尊气势恢宏的青铜雕像。雕像中的秀吉身着庄重的武士礼服,神态从容,一手轻扶刀柄,一手执握采配,尽显一代统一者的威严与气度。丰臣秀吉是日本历史上最具传奇色彩的人物。他出身贫寒,据说年轻时只是农民之子,却最终成为统一日本的领导者。在日本漫长的历史中,能够像他这样从平民跻身国家最高权力中心,并完成统一大业的人物,可谓凤毛麟角。

Hokoku Shrine

The shrine commemorates not only Toyotomi Hideyoshi, but also members of the Toyotomi family whose efforts contributed to the unification of Japan. Although the Toyotomi political legacy came to an end with the fall of Osaka Castle during the Siege of Osaka, Hideyoshi’s influence on the course of Japanese history remains profound. His military achievements brought an end to more than a century of civil war and laid the foundations for the peaceful Edo period that followed. As I stood before the shrine, I found myself reflecting on the fate of the Toyotomi clan.

这座神社不仅纪念丰臣秀吉,也纪念为日本统一做出贡献的丰臣家族成员。虽然丰臣的政治遗产随着大阪城在大阪之战中的陷落而终结,但秀吉对日本历史进程的影响依然深远。他的军事成就结束了长达一个多世纪的内战,并为随后的江户时代奠定了和平的基础。站在神社前,我不禁对丰臣家族的命运陷入沉思。

In my view, Toyotomi Hideyori’s defeat was not simply the result of a single mistake made during the Siege of Osaka. Rather, its roots can be traced to decisions made years earlier by his father. Although Hideyoshi succeeded in unifying Japan, he did not establish a political system strong enough to endure after his own death. His heir, Hideyori, was still a child and lacked an effective institutional framework to protect his position. At the same time, Tokugawa Ieyasu remained the most powerful daimyō in the country, commanding unrivalled military resources and political influence. Hideyoshi’s costly invasions of Korea also placed a heavy burden on the nation and weakened support for the Toyotomi government. Finally, the stability of his regime depended largely on the personal loyalty of the Council of Five Elders rather than on enduring political institutions. Once Hideyoshi was gone, those personal bonds quickly unraveled, allowing Ieyasu to consolidate power.

在我看来,丰臣秀赖的失败并非仅仅是大阪之战中一次失误的结果,其根源可以追溯到他父亲多年前做出的决策。尽管秀吉成功统一了日本,但他并未建立起一套足以在他死后延续的政治体系。他的继承人秀赖当时年幼,缺乏有效的制度框架来巩固其地位。与此同时,德川家康仍然是日本最强大的大名,拥有无可匹敌的军事资源和政治影响力。秀吉发动对朝鲜的入侵也给国家带来了沉重的负担,削弱了民众对丰臣政府的支持。最后,丰臣政权的稳定很大程度上依赖于五长老的个人忠诚,而非稳固的政治制度。秀吉死后,这些个人羁绊迅速瓦解,使得家康得以巩固自身权力。

History rarely turns on a single battle or a single decision. As I left the shrine, I felt that the fall of the Toyotomi clan was the culmination of choices made over many years. It’s a reminder that lasting political success depends not only on military brilliance, but also on building a mature institution capable of surviving the ambitions and lifetimes of individual leaders.

历史很少由一场战役或一个决策而左右。离开神社时,我感到丰臣氏的覆灭是多年来一系列选择的最终结果。这令人警醒,持久的政治成功不仅取决于军事才能,还取决于建立起一套足以超越个人抱负与生命有限性的成熟体制。

Sankō Shrine

After leaving Osaka Castle Park, I made my way to Sankō Shrine, a quiet shrine best known for its association with the legendary samurai Sanada Yukimura, one of the most celebrated warriors of Japan’s Sengoku era. The shrine is dedicated to the Shinto deities Amaterasu, Tsukuyomi, and Susanoo. Yet for many visitors, its greatest attraction is the “Sanada’s Escape Tunnel.” According to local tradition, this mysterious underground passage once connected the Sanada Maru which is the fortified stronghold defended by Yukimura during the Siege of Osaka.

离开大阪城公园后,我前往三光神社。这座宁静的神社因与日本战国时代最著名的武将之一真田幸村的传奇故事而闻名。神社供奉着天照大神、月读命和须佐之男命三位日本神道的重要神祇。然而,对许多游客而言,这里最引人注目的并非神社本身,而是著名的“真田拔穴”。根据当地流传的传说,这条神秘的地下通道曾与真田丸相连。真田丸是大阪冬之阵期间真田幸村负责防守的重要外围堡垒。

The shrine also features a bronze statue of Yukimura and is a popular destination for visitor like me who is interested in Japan’s Sengoku-era history. Born into the Sanada clan, Yukimura was the son of Sanada Masayuki, a skilled strategist. After the decisive Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Yukimura was defeated for supporting the Western Army (Toyotomi clan) and were exiled to Kudoyama at the foot of Mount Koya, where they spent more than ten years in seclusion.

神社内还矗立着真田幸村的铜像。对于像我这样喜爱日本战国时代历史的游客而言,这里无疑是一处不可错过的朝圣之地。真田幸村出身于真田氏,父亲是真田家的当主、素有智谋之称的真田昌幸。1600年关原之战后,真田昌幸与真田幸村因支持西军而战败,被流放至高野山麓的九度山,在那里度过了十余年的幽居生活。

In 1614, the Siege of Osaka broke out. At the invitation of Toyotomi Hideyori, Sanada Yukimura left his exile and entered Osaka Castle, joining the Toyotomi army and shouldering the heavy responsibility of resisting Tokugawa Ieyasu. In the Siege of Osaka from 1614 to 1615, he led the defending troops in valiant fighting, becoming one of the most representative heroes of the Toyotomi clan’s last resistance against the Tokugawa Shogunate.

1614年,大阪冬之阵爆发,真田幸村应丰臣秀赖之邀离开流放地,进入大阪城,加入丰臣军,担负起抵抗德川家康的重任。在1614年至1615年的大阪之战中,他率领守军奋勇作战,成为丰臣氏最后抵抗德川幕府最具代表性的英雄人物之一。

This photo was taken in the place near Yasui Shrine where Yukimura Sanada lost the final battle. He earned lasting fame through his brilliant leadership during the Siege of Osaka. He designed and defended the Sanada Maru, a fortified outwork that successfully repelled repeated Tokugawa attacks during the Winter Siege of 1614. During the Summer Siege in 1615, he led a bold and desperate cavalry charge that came close to reaching Tokugawa Ieyasu himself before being overwhelmed and killed in battle.

这张照片拍摄于安井神社附近,真田幸村在此地战败身亡。他在大阪之战中展现了卓越的指挥才能,名垂青史。他设计并守卫了真田丸,这座坚固的防御工事在1614年冬之阵中成功击退了德川家康的多次进攻。1615年夏之阵中,他率领骑兵发起了一场勇猛而孤注一掷的冲锋,几乎逼近德川家康本人,最终却寡不敌众,战死沙场。

The portrait of Yukimura Sanada in the Osaka castle museum

I found his portrait in the Osaka castle museum. Although the Toyotomi forces supported by Yukimura were finally defeated, his courage, tactical skill, and unwavering loyalty turned him into a legendary figure. Often called “the greatest warrior in Japan”, he has been immortalized in literature like ‘The Sanada Gunki’, television dramas like ‘Sanada Maru’, video games like Nobunaga’s Ambition, and local legends, making him one of the most famous and admired samurai in Japanese history.

我在大阪城博物馆里看到了他的画像。虽然幸村支持的丰臣方最终战败,但他的勇气、战术才能和坚定不移的忠诚使他成为了传奇人物。他常被誉为“日本最伟大的武士”,其事迹被写入《真田军纪》等文学作品、《真田丸》等电视剧、《信长之野望》等电子游戏以及各地传说中,使他成为日本历史上最著名、最受敬仰的武士之一。

As I wandered through the suburban streets of Osaka, I discovered a quieter side of the city, where everyday life unfolded at an unhurried pace. A network of narrow lanes, often barely wide enough for a single car, wound between rows of modest three-storey houses standing shoulder to shoulder. Small balconies were decorated with potted plants, bicycles rested casually against walls, and neatly arranged entrances reflected the quiet routines of daily life.

漫步在大阪郊区的街道上,我发现了这座城市宁静而真实的一面。这里没有市中心的喧嚣与繁华,生活节奏显得舒缓而悠闲。狭窄的巷道纵横交错,往往仅容一辆汽车缓缓通过,蜿蜒穿梭于一排排紧密相连的三层民居之间。小巧的阳台上摆放着各式盆栽,自行车随意停靠在屋前墙边,整洁的玄关和门前空间流露出平凡而安逸的日常生活气息。

Walking through them felt like catching a glimpse of the Osaka that local residents experience every day, far removed from the bright lights and bustling crowds of the city centre. Towering utility poles lined the streets, forming one of the most distinctive features of Japanese residential neighborhoods. Countless power lines stretched from pole to pole, hanging in gentle curves overhead and weaving an intricate pattern against the sky. At first, the dense web of cables seemed almost chaotic, but the longer I looked, the more it became part of the city’s unique visual identity.

漫步其中,我仿佛得以一窥大阪居民最真实的生活景象,远离了道顿堀的灯火璀璨和商业区的人潮汹涌。街道两旁,高高耸立的电线杆构成了日本住宅区最具代表性的景观之一。无数电线从一根电线杆延伸至另一根,在头顶纵横交织,勾勒出一幅错综复杂的几何图案。初见时,这密密麻麻的电缆网似乎显得有些杂乱无章;然而驻足细看,渐渐便会发现,它们早已成为日本城市一种独特而富有辨识度的视觉特征。

Nakano-shima

As evening approached and I made my way back to my hotel, Nakanoshima revealed a strikingly different side of Osaka from the quiet residential neighborhoods I had explored earlier. Situated on a long island between the Dojima and Tosabori Rivers, Nakanoshima is one of the city’s principal business and cultural districts, where broad boulevards, graceful bridges, and sleek skyscrapers combine to create a sophisticated urban skyline. Towering glass office buildings rose above the waterfront, their façades reflecting the fading colors of the winter sky as daylight gradually gave way to evening. The rivers mirrored the city lights, while the silhouettes of bridges stretched elegantly across the water, lending the district a calm yet cosmopolitan atmosphere.

夜幕降临,我返回酒店。中之岛展现了大阪截然不同的一面,与我之前探索过的宁静住宅区截然不同。中之岛位于堂岛川和土佐堀川之间的一座狭长岛屿上,是大阪主要的商业和文化区。宽阔的林荫大道、优雅的桥梁和时尚的摩天大楼交相辉映,构成了一幅精致的都市天际线。高耸的玻璃幕墙办公楼矗立在水岸之上,随着白昼渐逝,夜幕降临,它们的立面倒映着冬日天空的斑驳色彩。河面倒映着城市的灯光,桥梁的轮廓优雅地横跨水面,为这片区域增添了一份宁静而又国际化的氛围。

Unlike the narrow lanes of the suburbs, Nakanoshima offered wide, tree-lined promenades and spacious riverside parks that invited me to slow down and enjoy the scenery. I strolled along the riverbanks, watching office workers, joggers, and couples passing by as the city settled into the evening. Within a single day, I had experienced the city’s historic heart, its peaceful residential streets, and its modern financial centre. Each revealed a different character of Osaka.

与郊区狭窄的巷道不同,​​中之岛拥有宽阔的林荫大道和河畔公园,让我不禁放慢脚步,欣赏美景。我沿着河岸漫步,看着上班族、慢跑者和情侣们来来往往,城市渐渐步入夜幕。短短一天之内,我体验了这座城市的历史区、宁静的住宅区,以及现代化金融中心。每一处都展现了大阪不同的风貌。

At night, the Dōtonbori Canal became one of Osaka’s most vibrant and recognizable urban landscapes. The waterway was bordered by a continuous wall of illuminated buildings, where enormous LED billboards, animated signs, and colorful advertisements reflected across the gently rippling surface of the canal. Both banks of the canal are lined with wide pedestrian promenades crowded with locals and visitors. Restaurants, izakayas and cafés spilled light and laughter onto the waterfront, while the enticing aromas of grilled seafood, ramen and freshly made takoyaki drifted through the air.

夜幕降临,道顿堀运河摇身一变,成为大阪最具活力和辨识度的都市景观之一。运河两岸林立着灯火辉煌的建筑,巨大的LED广告牌、动态招牌和色彩缤纷的广告倒映在波光粼粼的河面上。运河两岸宽阔的步行道上熙熙攘攘,挤满了当地居民和游客。餐厅、居酒屋和咖啡馆灯火通明,欢声笑语弥漫在河畔,烤海鲜、拉面和新鲜出炉的章鱼烧的诱人香气扑鼻而来。

I enjoyed dinner at a restaurant by the canal, savoring Japan’s famous Wagyu beef yakiniku. Wagyu is renowned for its fine and marbling, melt-in-mouth tenderness, and rich, full-bodied flavor. Unlike Western steaks, Wagyu yakiniku is typically not served in whole, but rather sliced ​​into thin pieces or bite-sized chunks, which diners grill themselves slowly over charcoal at their tables.

我在运河边的一家餐厅享用了晚餐,品尝了日本著名的和牛烤肉。和牛以细腻均匀的大理石纹油花、入口即化的鲜嫩口感和浓郁醇厚的风味闻名于世。与西式牛排不同,和牛烤肉通常不会整块上桌,而是切成薄片或一口大小的肉块,由食客亲自在餐桌上的炭火烤炉上慢慢烤制。

As the beef sizzled on the charcoal, the fine fat gradually melted, giving the slices an enticing sheen and releasing a rich aroma. When the outer layer slightly caramelized and turned golden brown, the inside remained tender and juicy. The grilled Wagyu, served with garlic, onions, and other vegetables, and dipped in a flavorful Japanese yakiniku sauce, offered a multi-layered and unforgettable experience with every bite.

随着牛肉在炭火上滋滋作响,细密的油脂逐渐融化,肉片表面泛起诱人的光泽,浓郁的香气也随之弥漫开来。当外层微微焦糖化、呈现出金褐色时,内部依然保持着鲜嫩多汁的口感。烤好的和牛搭配大蒜、洋葱等蔬菜,再蘸上香浓的日式烧肉酱,每一口都层次丰富,令人回味无穷。

Sitting by the canal, admiring the city lights reflected on the water’s surface while enjoying the steaming Wagyu yakiniku, I found a perfect way to conclude one day’s trip. On a cold winter night, this warm and sumptuous dinner became one of my most unforgettable culinary experiences upon arriving in Japan.

坐在运河边,一边欣赏着夜色中倒映在水面的城市灯火,一边品尝着热气腾腾的和牛烤肉,为这一天的大阪之旅画上了一个完美的句号。在寒冷的冬夜里,这顿温暖而丰盛的晚餐,也成为我初到日本最难忘的美食体验。

Sumiyoshi-taisha

I stayed in Osaka for two days and visited several cultural places on the second day. Sumiyoshi Taisha is one of Japan’s oldest and most revered Shinto shrines. Founded in the 3rd century, before the introduction of Buddhism to Japan, the shrine is dedicated to the Sumiyoshi Sanjin, three deities believed to protect travelers, sailors, fishermen, and all who journey by sea. Because Osaka developed as an important port city, Sumiyoshi Taisha became a spiritual guardian for merchants, seafarers, and imperial envoys. Today, it remains the head shrine of more than 2,000 Sumiyoshi shrines across Japan.

我在大阪总计待了两天,第二天参观了几个历史文化景点。住吉大社是日本最古老、最受尊崇的神社之一。它始建于公元3世纪,早于佛教传入日本。这座神社供奉着住吉三神,这三位神祇被认为能够庇佑旅行者、水手、渔民以及所有海上航行者。由于大阪发展成为重要的港口城市,住吉大社也成为了商人、海员和皇室使节的精神守护神。如今,它仍然是遍布日本各地2000多座住吉神社的总本社。

The shrine is internationally renowned for its distinctive Sumiyoshi-zukuri architectural style, one of the oldest surviving forms of Japanese shrine architecture. Unlike many later shrines that incorporated Chinese and Buddhist influences, Sumiyoshi-zukuri preserves a purely indigenous and simple Japanese design. The four main sanctuary buildings stand in a straight line at the central axis, with elevated wooden floors, straight gabled roofs covered in cypress bark, crossed finials (chigi) projecting above the roof, and horizontal log weights (katsuogi) running along the ridge. The simple lines, natural wood, and elegant colors combine to create a rustic and dignified aesthetic, making one feel as if they have traveled back to the beginning of Japanese Shinto culture.

住吉大社以其独特的住吉造建筑风格闻名于世。住吉造是现存最古老的日本神社建筑样式之一。与许多后来受到中国建筑和佛教文化影响的神社不同,住吉造保留了古代日本神道建筑朴素而纯粹的设计风格。神社的四座本殿沿中轴线依次排列。每座本殿都建于架高的木质地板之上,屋顶覆盖着桧树皮(桧皮葺),采用笔直的人字形山墙屋顶。屋脊两端竖立着交叉的千木,屋脊上整齐排列着水平的鲣木。简洁的线条、天然的木材与素雅的色彩,共同营造出一种古朴而庄重的美感,让人仿佛穿越回日本神道文化诞生之初。

Sorihashi Bridge

Among the shrine’s most recognizable landmarks is the graceful Sorihashi Bridge, often known as the Taiko Bridge because its elegant arch resembles the curved profile of a traditional Japanese drum. Spanning a tranquil pond before the shrine entrance, the bridge forms one of Osaka’s most picturesque and frequently photographed scenes. Its vivid vermilion railings stand in beautiful contrast to the surrounding greenery and the still waters below, creating a composition of remarkable balance and serenity. As I paused to admire the bridge, its gentle curve seemed to invite visitors to leave the bustle of the outside world behind and enter the sacred precincts of the shrine with a calm and reflective mind.

神社最引人注目的地标之一便是优雅的反桥,又称太鼓桥。它优美的拱形宛如日本传统太鼓的弧线,因此得名。石桥横跨神社入口前宁静的神池,构成了住吉大社最具代表性、也最常被拍摄的景观之一。鲜艳的朱红色栏杆与周围的绿植和下方平静的湖面形成鲜明对比,构成了一幅和谐宁静的画面。当我驻足欣赏这座桥时,它柔和的弧线仿佛在邀请游客们放下尘世的喧嚣,以平静沉思的心态步入神社的神圣境域。

Culturally, Sumiyoshi Taisha has played a central role in Japanese religious life for nearly two millennia. Throughout its long history, emperors, samurai, merchants, sailors, and ordinary citizens have come here to offer prayers for safe journeys, prosperous businesses, family well-being, and good fortune. As one of Japan’s oldest and most revered Shinto shrines, it continues to be a place where ancient traditions remain an active part of everyday life. When I visited, the shrine was filled with local worshippers with devout solemn expressions, quietly making their way from one shrine building to another. Some people bowed gently before the worship hall, threw incense money, and rang the bell rope according to the shrine’s etiquette, the crisp sound of the bell echoing in the courtyard; others put their hands together and prayed silently, hoping to convey their wishes to the Sumiyoshi Sanjin.

从文化角度来看,住吉大社近两千年来始终在日本宗教生活中占据着重要地位。在漫长的历史岁月里,无论是天皇、武士、商人、水手,还是普通百姓,都曾来到这里祈求旅途平安、航海顺利、生意兴隆、家庭和睦与诸事顺遂。作为日本最古老、最受尊崇的神社之一,住吉大社至今仍是传统信仰与现代生活交汇的重要场所。我到访时,神社内聚集着许多前来参拜的当地居民。他们安静地穿行于神社各处,神情庄重而虔诚。有人在拜殿前轻轻鞠躬、投下香火钱,依照神社的礼仪摇动铃绳,清脆的铃声在庭院中回荡;有人双手合十,默默祈愿,希望将心中的愿望传达给神明。

The shrine is also deeply woven into Japanese literature, poetry, and classical art, often appearing as a symbol of longevity, protection, and divine blessing. The main hall is also one of the most sought-after venues for traditional Japanese Shinto wedding ceremonies. Many Japanese couples choose the shrine because marriage in Shinto is regarded as a sacred union witnessed by the kami (deities), with the blessings extending not only to the couple but also to their families and future generations.

神社在日本文学、诗歌和古典艺术中也占据着举足轻重的地位,常常象征着长寿、庇佑和神灵的祝福。神社正殿也是举办传统日本神道婚礼的热门场所。许多日本夫妇选择在神社举行婚礼,是因为在神道教中,婚姻被视为由神明见证的神圣结合,其祝福不仅惠及新人,更会惠及他们的家庭和子孙后代。

I spent nearly an hour at the shrine observing the wedding ceremony, fascinated by this important expression of Japanese culture and tradition. Unlike the grand celebrations often seen elsewhere, the ceremony unfolded with quiet dignity and there was not loud music, nor any grand ceremony. A traditional Shinto wedding at Sumiyoshi Taisha typically begins with a solemn procession led by Shinto priests, followed by purification rituals to symbolically cleanse the couple before the gods. Afterwards, the bride and groom then make offerings to the deities, exchange cups of ceremonial sake in the ancient san-san-kudo ritual, recite their wedding vows, and present sacred evergreen branches, known as tamagushi, as offerings of gratitude and sincerity.

我在神社驻足了近一个小时,静静观看了一场传统神道婚礼,深深地被这种承载着日本文化与传统的仪式所吸引。与许多地方热闹盛大的婚礼庆典不同,这里的婚礼没有喧闹的音乐,也没有隆重的排场,取而代之的是庄严、宁静而充满仪式感的氛围。住吉大社里的传统神道婚礼通常以神职人员引领新人与亲属缓缓步入神社的参进仪式开始。随后,神职人员会为新人举行净化仪式,象征在神明面前洗净尘世的污秽。接着,新郎新娘向神明献上供品,并按照古老的“三三九度”仪式交换清酒,共饮三杯酒,以缔结婚姻的誓约。随后,新人宣读誓词,并向神明奉献称为“玉串”的常青树枝,以表达对神明的敬意、感恩与诚挚的祈愿。

The bride was dressed in an elegant white silk shiromuku, the traditional bridal kimono whose pure white color symbolizes purity and sincerity. Beside her, the groom wore a formal white montsuki haori hakama, the classic ceremonial attire reserved for important occasions. Surrounded by close family members, the couple exchanged their vows in an atmosphere of quiet reverence. Their presence highlighted an important aspect of Japanese culture: marriage is regarded not only as the union of two individuals, but also as the coming together of two families. The ceremony emphasized harmony, mutual respect, and the bonds that extend beyond the bride and groom themselves. As I quietly watched the ceremony unfold, I realized that I was witnessing more than a wedding. It was a living tradition that has been passed down through generations.

新娘身着优雅的白色丝绸白无垢,这件传统的新娘和服,纯白象征着纯洁与真挚。新郎则身着正式的白色纹付羽织袴,这是只有在重要场合才会穿着的经典礼服。在至亲好友的环绕下,这对新人在静谧而庄重的氛围中交换了爱之誓言。他们的婚礼让我深刻体会到日本文化中的一个重要理念:婚姻不仅意味着两个人携手共度一生,更象征着两个家族之间建立起新的联系。仪式强调和谐、互相尊重,以及超越新郎新娘本身的深厚情谊。我静静地注视着这一切,意识到自己所见证的不仅仅是一场婚礼,更是一项跨越千年、至今仍鲜活延续的传统。

Ōsaka Tenman-gū

Ōsaka Tenman-gū is another shrine that I visited. It is one of Osaka’s most important religious and cultural landmarks. While Sumiyoshi Taisha is dedicated to the deities who protect travelers and the sea, Ōsaka Tenman-gū is dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the Heian-period scholar, poet, and statesman who was later deified as Tenjin, the Shinto deity of scholarship, learning, and the arts.

大阪天满宫是我参拜的另一座神社,也是大阪最重要的宗教和文化地标之一。住吉大社供奉的是守护旅行者和大海的神明,而大阪天满宫则供奉着平安时代的学者、诗人兼政治家菅原道真,他后来被奉为天神,即掌管学问、知识和艺术的神祇。

Osaka Tenmangu Shrine’s architecture perfectly embodies the elegant charm of Edo-period shrine architecture. Although the shrine has been destroyed by fire and war multiple times, and most of the current buildings are reconstructed. The exquisitely decorated halls, intricately carved wooden components, vibrant vermilion architecture, and tranquil gardens still perfectly preserve the solemn and rustic atmosphere of a traditional Japanese shrine. The plum trees within the shrine are also renowned. This is because Sugawara no Michizane, who was enshrined here, was deeply fond of plum blossoms, and the plum blossom thus became one of his symbols. It is a legend when Michizane was exiled from Kyoto, the plum tree in his home, longing for its master, flew to his side overnight. This is the famous Japanese legend of the “Flying Plum Blossom.”

大阪天满宫的建筑风格充分展现了江户时代神社建筑的典雅韵味。尽管神社曾多次毁于火灾与战乱,如今的大部分建筑都是后来重建的,但装饰精美的殿宇、雕刻细腻的木构件、鲜艳的朱红色建筑以及宁静雅致的庭院,依然完整地保留了传统日本神社庄重而古朴的氛围。神社内的梅树同样享有盛名。这是因为祭祀于此的菅原道真生前酷爱梅花,梅花也因此成为象征他的标志之一。相传,道真被贬离京都时,家中的梅树因眷恋主人而一夜之间飞到他身边,这便是日本著名的“飞梅传说”。

It plays an especially important role in the lives of students. Before school entrance examinations, university admissions, or professional certification exams, thousands of people visit the shrine to pray for success. Many purchase ema (wooden prayer plaques) on which they write their academic wishes, or protective amulets (omamori) believed to bring good fortune in examinations. This tradition has made the shrine one of Japan’s most significant centers for educational blessings.

对于日本学生而言,大阪天满宫具有格外重要的意义。每逢入学考试以及各类资格考试来临之前,都会有成千上万的学生和家长来到这里参拜,祈求学业有成、考试顺利。许多人会购买绘马(木制祈福牌),在上面写下自己的学业愿望,或者购买护身符(御守),相信它能带来考试好运。这一传统使这座神社成为日本最重要的求学祈福中心之一。

Namba Yasaka Jinja

Hidden among the bustling streets of central Osaka, Namba Yasaka Jinja is relatively small compared with Osaka’s more famous historical sites. As I approached the shrine, I was attracted by its extraordinary Shishiden, an enormous lion’s head standing approximately twelve meters high. Its fierce golden eyes, flared nostrils, and wide-open mouth created a dramatic and unforgettable sight. According to local tradition, the lion’s open mouth is believed to swallow evil spirits and bad fortune while attracting good luck, prosperity, and success.

难波八坂神社隐匿于大阪市中心熙熙攘攘的街道之中,与大阪其他更著名的历史遗迹相比,规模相对较小。当我走近神社时,首先映入眼帘的是那尊气势恢宏的狮子头,高达约十二米。它那锐利的金眸、张开的鼻孔和宽阔的大嘴,构成了一幅令人难忘的震撼景象。当地传说认为,狮子张开的大嘴能够吞噬邪灵和厄运,同时带来好运、财富和成功。

Although it is in the city center, the wooden shrine buildings, stone lanterns, and carefully maintained grounds reflect the quiet elegance of traditional Shinto architecture. The contrast between the ancient shrine and the surrounding high-rise buildings perfectly captures the character of Osaka, where centuries-old traditions continue to thrive within a vibrant modern city.

尽管地处大阪中心,但这座木质神社建筑、石灯笼和精心维护的庭院,处处体现着传统神道建筑的静谧优雅。古老的神社与周围高楼林立的建筑群形成鲜明对比,完美地展现了大阪的独特魅力。在这座充满活力的现代都市中,传承数百年的传统依然生机勃勃。

Keitakuen Garden

Osaka is a very modern city but there are still some traditional houses and gardens for me to visit. Within Tennoji Park, Keitakuen Garden is one of Osaka’s finest examples of a traditional Japanese landscape garden. Originally completed in 1908 as part of the residence of the distinguished merchant Sumitomo Kichizaemon, the garden was designed according to the principles of traditional Japanese landscape architecture, recreating the beauty of nature in miniature. Every winding path, carefully placed stone, tranquil pond, and gently shaped hill was arranged with meticulous care to evoke the scenery of mountains, rivers, and forests within a relatively compact space. The concept of miniature landscapes is to encompass an infinite range of mountains and rivers within a limited space.

大阪是一座高度现代化的城市,但这里依然保留着许多传统庭园和历史建筑,值得细细探访。其中,位于天王寺公园内的庆泽园便是大阪最精美的传统日式庭园之一。庆泽园始建于1908年,最初是著名实业家住友吉左卫门宅邸的一部分。整座庭园依循日本传统庭园的造园理念而建,通过巧妙的布局,将自然山水浓缩于有限的空间之中。每一条蜿蜒的小径、精心摆放的石头、静谧的池塘和缓坡都经过精心布置,在相对紧凑的空间内营造出山川河流森林的景致。以有限之地,纳无限山水,这就是缩景的理念

At the heart of the garden lies a tranquil pond, its surface reflected the surrounding pines, maples, and carefully sculpted shrubs. Winding paths led me around the water, revealing a different perspective at every turn. Small stone bridges span narrow inlets, while natural rock formations and gentle slopes are arranged to resemble mountains and valleys. Every element has been meticulously positioned to create a balanced composition.

花园中心是一处静谧的池塘,水面倒映着周围的松树、枫树和精心修剪的灌木。蜿蜒的小径环绕着池塘,每转一个弯,景色都焕然一新。小石桥横跨狭窄的河湾,天然的岩石和缓坡排列成山峦叠嶂、峡谷幽深的模样。每一个元素都经过精心布局,营造出和谐的美感。

Keizei-en Garden was the last stop on my trip to Osaka. There, I sat in a traditional wooden house built beside a pond, quietly admiring the garden view from the wooden-framed window. Ripples spread across the pond, a gentle winter breeze rustled the trees, and a serene tranquility enveloped me. Sitting there quietly, savoring this moment of peace, I couldn’t help but reflect on my journey.

庆泽园是我在大阪旅程中的最后一站。园中有一座临池而建的传统木屋,我坐在木框窗前,静静欣赏眼前的庭园景色。池塘泛起层层涟漪,冬日微风轻轻拂过,树木随风摇曳,四周一片静谧安详。我静静地坐在那里,享受着这片刻的宁静,不禁回想起这段旅程。

Just the day before, I had arrived at Kansai International Airport, embarking on my first trip to Japan with anticipation; and now, I found myself in a traditional garden that embodies over a century of garden art and Japanese aesthetics, experiencing a completely different side of Japan. In just two days, I witnessed the Sengoku Period history of Osaka Castle, strolled through the vibrant streets and alleys, wandered through the dazzling nightscape of the modern city, and experienced the traditional culture that continues to this day in shrines and gardens. That peaceful winter afternoon ultimately became one of my most precious memories of Osaka. I gradually understood that what truly moves me is not just its world-famous landmarks, but also the moments that allow me to slow down and quietly feel the passage of time.

就在前一天,我才刚刚抵达关西国际机场,怀着期待踏上人生中的第一次日本之旅;而此刻,我却置身于一座凝聚着百余年造园艺术与日本美学的传统庭园之中,感受着另一种截然不同的日本。短短两天时间,我见证了大阪城承载的战国历史,漫步于充满生活气息的街巷,穿行于现代都市的璀璨夜景,也在神社与庭园中体会到延续至今的传统文化。那个宁静的冬日下午,最终成为我在大阪最珍贵的回忆之一。我渐渐明白,一座城市真正打动人的,并不仅仅是那些闻名于世的地标建筑,更是那些能够让人放慢脚步、静静感受时光流淌的瞬间。

Singapore Through My Eyes: Two Decades of Stories

我眼中的新加坡:二十载光阴里的故事

This blog is my 100th blog which is dedicated to Singapore where I have been living for more than twenty years. I will narrate in the view of a resident but not a tourist.

本文是我的第100篇博文,纪念新加坡,这座我已生活了二十多年的城市。我将不以游客,而是以当地居民的视角,讲述这里的一切。

In 2005, I arrived in Singapore as a secondary school student carrying little more than curiosity, uncertainty, and expectations for a new life. At that time, I never imagined that this small island would eventually become my second hometown. Over these two decades, Singapore has become more than a place where I studied and worked, it has become the backdrop of my youth and adulthood. Here, I learned to adapt to unfamiliar cultures, make friendships across different backgrounds, and find my own place in a fast-moving society. There were moments of excitement and achievement, but also periods of loneliness, pressure, self-doubt, and quiet persistence that few people could see.

2005年,我作为一名中学生来到新加坡,行囊中装着的,不过是好奇、忐忑,以及对新生活的憧憬。那时的我未曾想到,这座小岛终会成为我的第二故乡。二十年来,新加坡不仅是我求学、工作和生活的地方,更见证并承载了我的青春岁月与成长历程。在这里,我学会了适应陌生的文化,结识了来自不同背景的朋友,也在快节奏的社会中找到了属于自己的立足之地。这一路走来,有兴奋与成就,也有孤独、压力与自我怀疑,更有许多不为人知的默默坚持。

Life in Singapore has never felt one-dimensional to me. It tasted sweet in moments of growth and belonging; sour when plans did not go as expected; spicy in the intensity and competition that pushed me forward; and bitter in missed opportunities, and the distance from what once felt like home. Yet looking back, every stage became part of the person I am today.

对我而言,在新加坡的生活从来不是单调乏味的。它有成长与归属感的甘甜,也有计划赶不上变化的酸涩;有激烈竞争催人奋进的辛辣,也有错失良机、远离“家乡的苦涩。然而,当我回首这二十年的点滴,每一段经历都已融入我的生命,成为塑造今天这个我的一部分。

Changi Jewel

For many people arriving in Singapore, the first memory begins at the airport. Mine did too. The moment I stepped out of Changi Airport, I still remember the sensation vividly. Before I had time to notice the surroundings, I felt the warm, humid air wrapping around me instantly. It was so different from where I had come from. There was no dramatic welcome, no grand moment, just that quiet realization that I had entered a completely different climate, a different rhythm of life, and perhaps the beginning of a different version of myself.

对许多初到新加坡的人来说,最初的记忆往往始于机场,我也不例外。时至今日,我依然清晰记得走出樟宜机场那一刻的感受。还没来得及细看周围的景象,一股湿热的空气便扑面而来,瞬间将我包围。那种感觉与我出发时的环境截然不同。没有隆重的欢迎仪式,也没有宏大的场面,只有一种静静涌上心头的感悟:我已置身于一个气候迥异、生活节奏截然不同的新环境,而这或许也意味着,一个全新的人生,即将由此展开。

Changi Jewel was the landmark which was built years after I arrived in Singapore. What impressed me most was the vast glass dome filled with natural light and tropical greenery. At its center, water falls continuously from above. At night, streams of coloured light begin to move across the falling water while music fills the vast glass dome. The waterfall becomes a shifting curtain of light, changing from deep blue to warm gold, from soft waves to bursts of color and motion. Every time when I passed through and hear the sound of falling water beneath the glass roof, I am reminded of that first arrival many years ago.

星耀樟宜是我来到新加坡多年后才落成的地标性建筑。最令我印象深刻的,是那座沐浴在自然光下、绿意盎然的巨大玻璃穹顶。穹顶中央,一道瀑布自天而降,奔流不息。每当夜幕降临,流光溢彩的灯光便在飞泻的水幕间流转,悠扬的乐声回荡于宽阔的穹顶之下。此刻,瀑布仿佛化作一幅变幻莫测的光影画卷:色彩由深邃的蔚蓝渐渐过渡到温暖的金黄,形态则在柔和的水纹与绚丽的光影之间不断变换。每当我漫步于此,听着玻璃穹顶下潺潺的流水声,总会不由自主地想起二十多年前初次踏上这片土地时的情景。

The first place I called home in Singapore was the Hwa Chong boarding school. Looking back now, it feels strange to realize that my understanding of Singapore did not begin in the city center, among skyscrapers, but in a school campus. In the mornings, birds would begin singing before the day fully started. Throughout the day, insects buzzed among the trees, creating a constant background soundtrack that made the environment feel alive.

我在新加坡的第一个“家”便是华中寄宿学校。如今回想起来,颇有些奇妙。我对新加坡最初的认识,并非始于市中心林立的摩天大楼,而是从一座校园开始。清晨,天色尚未完全放亮,鸟儿便已开始鸣唱;白日里,昆虫在树丛间此起彼伏地鸣叫,那连绵不断的声响,为整个校园增添了蓬勃的生机。

Coming from a different place, I was surprised that a highly developed city could still feel so green and so connected to nature. The sky seemed so blue, brighter than I expected. Everywhere was greenery. Trees lining the roads, lawns stretching between buildings, and tropical plants appeared dense and full of life. Angsana trees grow so tall and elegant with dense foliage and are planted extensively along the Bukit Timah Road.

来自不同的地方,我最初感到惊讶的是:这样一座高度发达的现代化城市,竟能保有如此浓郁的绿意,并与大自然如此和谐地相融。天空格外湛蓝,甚至比我想象中更加明亮。放眼望去,满目葱茏:道路两旁绿树成荫,建筑之间草坪绵延,热带植物郁郁葱葱,处处洋溢着蓬勃的生机。武吉知马路沿线广泛种植着紫檀树,它们枝繁叶茂,高大挺拔,姿态如此优雅。

Although so many years passed, the memory of the campus still lingered in my memory. The campus was spacious, with broad roads, old buildings, soccer fields, and mature trees. The iconic clock tower standing above the grounds gave the place a certain solemnity. The school traces its origins to The Chinese High School, founded in 1919 by Tan Kah Kee, one of the most influential overseas Chinese philanthropists and educators. Years later, when I visited Jimei School Village in Xiamen, I experienced an unexpected sense of familiarity. Both were created through Tan Kah Kee’s educational vision and developed into a complete educational community.

尽管岁月流转,校园的记忆依然萦绕在我的脑海中。那是一片宽阔的校园,拥有宽敞的道路、古朴的建筑、足球场以及郁郁葱葱的参天大树;矗立其间的标志性钟楼,更赋予了这片土地庄严的气息。该校的渊源可追溯至由极具影响力的海外华人慈善家与教育家陈嘉庚先生于1919年创办的华侨中学。多年后,当我造访厦门集美学村时,竟产生了一种意想不到的熟悉感;这两处校园皆源于陈嘉庚先生的教育宏愿,并最终发展成为功能完备的教育社区。

Life at the boarding school was also my first lesson in independence. Everything suddenly became my own responsibility: waking up on time, managing schoolwork, adjusting to new food, making friends, and learning how to live away from family. Not far from the boarding school was a place that quietly became part of my first memories of Singapore: the Singapore Botanic Gardens.


寄宿学校的生活,也是我学会独立的第一课。生活中的一切,突然都成了我需要承担的责任:按时起床、安排学业、适应新的饮食、结交朋友,以及学习如何离开家人的陪伴,独自面对生活。在离寄宿学校不远的地方,有一个去处悄然成为了我对新加坡最初记忆的一部分,那就是新加坡植物园。

Botanic Garden

Whenever I visited it on weekends, I was struck by how natural everything felt. Tall rain trees stretched their branches across wide lawns, tropical plants grew in layers of green, and shaded paths curved gently instead of following rigid lines. The air always seemed cooler, softened by the dense vegetation. After a sudden tropical rain, the scent of wet soil would linger in the air. Many families would come here for a picnic on the lawns.

每逢周末造访此地,这里浑然天成的氛围总令我印象深刻。高大的雨树向宽阔的草坪舒展着枝桠,热带植物层层交叠,绿意盎然;林荫小径蜿蜒延伸,而非刻意修筑得笔直规整。茂密的植被让空气也显得格外清凉宜人。一场突如其来的热带阵雨过后,空气中总会弥漫着湿润泥土的芬芳。许多家庭也会来到这里,在草坪上共享野餐的惬意时光。

It has extraordinary historical significance. Founded in 1859, it became Singapore’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. The gardens played an important role in the cultivation and distribution of rubber across Southeast Asia in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, shaping the economic development of the region. UNESCO also recognized it as an exceptionally well-preserved example of a British tropical colonial botanic garden whose original landscape have remained remarkably intact over time.

它承载着非凡的历史意义。该园始建于1859年,并于2015年成为新加坡唯一一处列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的遗产地。在19世纪末至20世纪初,它曾在东南亚地区橡胶的培育与推广过程中发挥重要作用,进而影响了这一地区的经济发展轨迹。联合国教科文组织也将其誉为保存极为完好的英国热带殖民地植物园典范,其原始景观历经岁月流转,至今仍保持着相当完整的面貌。

National Orchid Garden

Unlike the wider Botanic Gardens, where greenery stretches quietly and naturally across the landscape, the Orchid Garden feels more curated. Walking through its entrance, I felt being greeted by layers of color. Against the tropical backdrop of palms, old trees, and filtered sunlight, the garden was like a living gallery.

与植物园其他区域那片绿意静谧、自然舒展的景致不同,兰花园所呈现出的,是一种更具匠心雕琢的美感。步入园中,层层交织的色彩仿佛在迎接着我的到来;在棕榈树、古木以及透过枝叶洒落的斑驳阳光所构成的热带背景映衬下,这座花园宛如一座鲜活而灵动的艺术画廊。

Before visiting it, I thought that orchids were elegant but simple flowers. Inside, I discovered how different they could be, tiny and delicate, large and sculptural, pure white, vivid purple, spotted and striped. The garden was designed with different sections with different color and landscape.

参观之前,我原以为兰花不过是一种优雅而简约的花卉。置身其中,我才发现它们竟拥有如此丰富的姿态:有的娇小精致,有的硕大如雕塑般令人惊叹;色彩上,既有纯净的白,也有浓郁的紫红,更有点缀着斑点与条纹的独特品种。这座花园被巧妙划分为不同的区域,每一处都展现出独具特色的色彩与景观风格。

Orchids are more than ornamental flowers. They became part of the country’s identity, national flower of Singapore. The beautiful Vanda orchid is very commonly displayed in the garden. It has thick strap-like leaves growing along an upright stem and large flat flowers with the characteristic purple or pink tessellated pattern. They looked really elegant with long and wide petals and soft colors.

兰花不仅仅是一种供人欣赏的花卉,更已成为新加坡国家形象的一部分,并被定为国花。在花园中,人们常能见到美丽的万代兰。这种兰花拥有厚实而带状的叶片,沿着直立的茎干舒展生长;花朵硕大而扁平,带有标志性的紫色或粉色网格状纹理。宽长的花瓣与柔和的色调相互映衬,使其显得格外优雅。

I enjoyed the atmosphere around lakes in the garden. Early in the morning, the water is as smooth as glass, perfectly reflecting the surrounding rainforest trees, elegant palms, and the blue sky. A gentle breeze occasionally ripples the surface, causing the reflections to shimmer like an impressionist painting. Walking along the lakeside paths, I could hear birds singing and leaves rustling in the wind and felt completely removed from the pressures of school.

我很喜欢湖边的氛围。清晨湖面平静如镜,完美地映照着周围的热带雨林树木、挺拔的棕榈树和蔚蓝的天空。微风偶尔拂过,泛起涟漪,倒映出的水面波光粼粼,风景宛如一幅印象派画作。沿着湖边小径漫步,我能听到鸟儿的歌唱和树叶在风中沙沙作响,瞬间感觉摆脱了学校带来的学业压力。

I spent two years in Xinmin Secondary School (my first school in Singapore) preparing for the O Level examinations, but looking back, the examinations themselves were only part of the challenge. The greater test was learning how to begin in a completely unfamiliar environment. The school system was different, and I must improve my English to adapt to it. The teaching methods were different, and I suddenly found myself surrounded by classmates who had grown up in a culture that was still new to me. Every day brought something unfamiliar, from the way lessons were conducted to the conversations happening around me. I gradually learnt to adapt to this international and multicultural environment.

我在新民中学(我在新加坡就读的第一所学校)度过了两年,当时要为“O水准”考试做准备。然而,回首往事,考试本身只是那段经历中的一部分挑战。更大的考验在于如何在一个完全陌生的环境中重新开始。这里的教育体系与以往截然不同,我必须提升英语能力,以适应新的学习方式;教学模式也与过去大相径庭。与此同时,我发现自己置身于一群成长背景与文化经历都与我有所不同的同学之中。从课堂授课的方式,到身边人的日常交谈,每一天都充满着新鲜感。我也在这样的过程中,逐渐学会适应这个国际化且多元文化交融的环境。

St Andrew’s Cathedral

The first thing that Singapore left me deep impression was the co-existence of different cultures. Although Singapore is a small island, it is home to people of many different ethnicities and religions. Chinese, Malays, Indians, and Eurasians have lived together for generations, each contributing to the country’s identity while preserving their own traditions. Christian churches form an important part of Singapore’s architectural landscape. Historic buildings such as St Andrew’s Cathedral, with its elegant white Gothic Revival architecture, stand as reminders of Singapore’s past.

新加坡给我留下的第一印象,是多元文化在此交融共存的景象。尽管它只是一个小岛,却汇聚了众多不同族裔与宗教信仰的群体。华人、马来人、印度人以及欧亚裔人士世代生活于此,在延续各自传统文化的同时,也共同塑造了这个国家独特而丰富的面貌。基督教堂亦成为新加坡城市景观中不可或缺的一部分;其中,历史悠久的圣安德烈座堂以其优雅的白色哥特复兴式建筑风格闻名,静静见证并诉说着新加坡走过的岁月。

Sultan Mosque

In Kampong Glam, the golden dome of Sultan Mosque rises above rows of restored shophouses. The district reflects Singapore’s rich Malay and Arab heritage, where traditional architectures and historic streets coexist with contemporary art and design, forming the unique charisma of this city.

在甘榜格南,苏丹回教堂的金色圆顶高高矗立于一排排修葺一新的店屋之上。这片街区展现了新加坡深厚的马来与阿拉伯文化底蕴,传统建筑与承载历史记忆的街巷在此交织,并与现代艺术和设计和谐共存,形成独具魅力的城市风貌。

I passed by many traditional shophouses with colorful wooden shutters and decorative windows near Chinatown. Some of these historic streets, especially along Telok Ayer Street reminded me of the old streets of Quanzhou. Their rows of narrow shophouses, timber window shutters, and pastel-coloured façades share a similar architectural heritage, reflecting the influence of Southern Chinese migrants who settled throughout Southeast Asia in the nineteenth century.

在唐人街附近漫步时,我经过了许多带有彩色木质百叶窗与装饰性窗棂的传统店屋。这些历史悠久的街道,尤其是直落亚逸街一带,让我不禁联想到泉州的老街。那一排排狭窄的店屋、木制百叶窗,以及覆着柔和色调的外立面,展现出相似的建筑韵味,也映照出19世纪移居东南亚的华南移民所带来的文化影响。

A short distance away lies Little India, where brightly painted buildings, colorful murals, and the magnificent Indian Temple create an atmosphere entirely different from Chinatown. Singapore places great importance on racial harmony and mutual respect. The architectures of different styles and neighborhoods quietly demonstrate how different cultures can preserve their own identities while contributing to a shared national community.

不远处便是小印度,那里色彩鲜明的建筑、绚丽多彩的壁画,以及庄严宏伟的印度庙宇,共同营造出一种与唐人街截然不同的文化氛围。新加坡始终重视种族和谐与彼此尊重;这些风格迥异的建筑与街区,静静诉说着不同文化如何在保留自身特色的同时,彼此交融,共同构筑起一个团结而多元的社会。

Sentosa island

Although adapting to school demanded most of my time and energy, I also wanted to discover the country that had suddenly become my new home. Whenever I had a free weekend or during school holidays, I would visit different parts of Singapore. Everything was new to me. I remember taking my first trip to Sentosa, where the beaches and relaxed atmosphere made it feel like a tropical resort.

尽管适应学校生活占据了我大部分的时间与精力,但我也始终渴望探索这个突然成为我新家园的国家。每逢周末或学校假期,我都会前往新加坡各处游览。对当时的我而言,一切都充满了新鲜感。我至今仍记得第一次前往圣淘沙的情景:那里柔软的沙滩以及悠闲惬意的氛围,让人仿佛置身于一片热带度假胜地。

Most of the time, I did not take the monorail to Sentosa. Instead, I preferred to walk from HarbourFront along the Sentosa Boardwalk. Although it took a little longer, the journey itself became part of the experience. The promenade stretches gently over the water, connecting the mainland to the island. Walking there, I was accompanied by the sea breeze, the sound of waves lapping against the shore, and the warm tropical sunshine. On one side lay the calm blue waters of Keppel Harbour, where yachts rested quietly in the marina. On the other side, Sentosa’s beaches and lush greenery gradually came into view, making the island feel closer with every step. Above me, the cable car glided silently across the sky. Its colorful cabins looked almost like small floating lanterns moving steadily between HarbourFront and Sentosa.

大多数时候,我并不会乘坐轻轨列车前往圣淘沙,而更喜欢从港湾出发,沿着圣淘沙跨海步行道步行前往。虽然这段路程需要花费更多时间,但沿途的景致本身,也成为这趟旅程中独特体验的一部分。这条步道平缓地延伸于海面之上,连接着本岛与圣淘沙岛。漫步其间,海风轻拂脸庞,耳畔回荡着海浪拍打岸边的声音,温暖的热带阳光也一路相伴。一侧是吉宝港宁静湛蓝的水域,游艇静静停泊于码头;另一侧,圣淘沙的海滩与葱郁绿意逐渐映入眼帘。随着脚步不断向前,这座岛屿仿佛也在不知不觉间变得越来越近。头顶上方,缆车在天空中悄然滑行,色彩斑斓的车厢宛如一个个漂浮的小灯笼,在港湾与圣淘沙之间平稳穿梭。

Sentosa feels like a place designed for leisure and escape. Surrounded by the sea, the island offers sandy beaches, tropical forests, waterfront promenades, and attractions that invite people to slow down and enjoy the outdoors. Over the years, I encountered several joint events of collaboration held on the island. This picture was taken on 2022 when Genshin Impact gained great reputation internationally and its main character and also my favorite character Paimon arrived at Sentosa.

圣淘沙仿佛是一处专为休闲与放松而打造的世外之地。这座岛屿四面环海,拥有柔软的沙滩、葱郁的热带丛林、悠闲的滨海步道以及各式各样的景点,让人不禁放慢脚步,尽情享受户外时光。多年来,我曾多次见证岛上举办的各种联名活动。这张照片拍摄于2022年,当时《原神》已风靡全球,而游戏中的核心角色、也是我最喜爱的角色之派蒙,也造访圣淘沙了。

These days, Disney brought its beloved characters and stories to the waterfront through family-friendly events. Familiar beaches that I had walked along countless times suddenly took on an entirely different atmosphere. What impressed me was how naturally these events blended with the tropical surroundings. Instead of feeling like temporary exhibitions placed on a beach, the colorful installations stood among coconut trees, against the backdrop of blue skies and the sea.

最近,迪士尼通过一系列适合全家参与的活动,将那些深受喜爱的角色与故事带到了海滨。那些我曾无数次漫步其间的熟悉海滩,也因此呈现出截然不同的气息。令我印象深刻的是,这些活动与热带环境融合得如此自然。那些色彩缤纷的立牌并非突兀地陈列于沙滩上的临时展品,而是与摇曳的椰林相互映衬,并以蓝天碧海为背景,仿佛本就属于这片海岸,显得浑然一体。

Universal Studios

When I first arrived in Singapore, Sentosa was already a popular destination, but over the years I witnessed its remarkable transformation. New attractions, hotels, and entertainment facilities continued to emerge. One of the most significant additions was Resorts World Sentosa, an integrated resort that transformed the northern part of the island. At its heart stands Universal Studios Singapore, the first Universal Studios theme park in Southeast Asia. Walking beneath the iconic rotating globe at its entrance always feels like stepping into another world.

初到新加坡时,圣淘沙已是一处热门旅游胜地。然而,多年来,我亲眼见证了它令人瞩目的蜕变。新的景点、酒店与娱乐设施不断涌现,其中最具代表性的项目之一,便是圣淘沙名胜世界。这座综合度假胜地彻底改变了岛屿北部的面貌。在其核心区域,坐落着东南亚首个环球影城主题公园。每当漫步于入口处那座标志性的旋转地球仪之下,我总会产生一种奇妙的感觉,仿佛自己正一步步踏入另一个充满想象与惊喜的世界。

Palawan Beach

For me, I prefer beach more than those entertainment facilities. I enjoy the moment of stepping onto the soft sand of Palawan Beach. The white sandy shore curves gently around clear blue water, making it an ideal place for a leisure walk. The iconic suspension bridge leading to the small offshore islet has become one of Sentosa’s most recognizable landmarks. Standing there, surrounded by the sea and looking towards the horizon, I often felt far away from the bustling city.

对我而言,比起那些娱乐设施,我更喜欢海滩。我享受踏上帕拉万柔软沙滩的那一刻。洁白的沙滩沿着清澈湛蓝的海水蜿蜒延伸,是悠闲漫步的理想去处。那座通往离岸小岛的标志性吊桥,已成为圣淘沙最具辨识度的地标之一。每当伫立于此,环绕在碧海之中眺望天际,我总会感到自己仿佛远离了喧嚣的都市。

After crossing the suspension bridge. I was fascinated by the sign marking it as the “Southernmost Point of Continental Asia.” Standing there, surrounded by the sea on all sides, I felt as though I had reached the edge of a vast continent and was connected to the remoteness in an interesting way.

穿过吊桥后,那块标示着“亚洲大陆最南端”的牌子深深吸引了我。立于此处,四面环海,我仿佛站在广袤大陆的边缘,感受到一种与远方相连的奇妙感觉。

The observation towers offered panoramic views of the Malacca Strait. Every day, thousands of vessels pass through this narrow gateway linking the Indian Ocean with the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean. Standing on the southern shore of the island, my eyes were always drawn towards the vast expanse of water stretching into the distance. On clear days, the sea and the sky seemed to merge into a single line at the horizon. Looking back toward the island, palm trees, beaches, and the skyline of Singapore appeared in the distance.

从观景塔上,可以饱览马六甲海峡的壮阔全景。每天,成千上万艘船只穿行于这条繁忙的航道,往来连接印度洋、南中国海与太平洋之间的海上通道。每当我站立在岛屿南岸,目光总会不由自主地被那片向远方延展的浩瀚海域所吸引。天气晴朗之时,海天仿佛在遥远的地平线上融为一体;回望岛内,远处的棕榈树、绵延的沙滩,以及新加坡的城市天际线,也尽收眼底。

What I loved most was staying here until sunset. As evening approached, the tropical heat gradually softened, and the sea breeze became cooler. The sky transformed from brilliant blue to shades of gold, orange, pink, and finally deep purple. The sunlight shimmered across the calm water, creating a path of light that seemed to stretch endlessly toward the horizon. The silhouettes of coconut trees stood against the glowing sky, while small waves rolled gently onto the shore with a soothing rhythm. I walked barefoot along the beach, leaving footprints that disappeared with the next wave. I listened to the sound of the waves and felt the warm sea breeze brushing against my cheek. After days filled with studying and adapting to a new life, those evenings by the sea brought a rare sense of peace.

我最喜欢的便是在这里停留至日落时分。随着夜幕缓缓降临,热带的暑气逐渐消散,海风也随之变得凉爽宜人。天空的色彩不断变幻,从明亮的蔚蓝,渐渐过渡为金黄、橙红与粉红,最终化作深邃的紫罗兰色。阳光洒落在平静的海面上,闪耀出粼粼光芒,铺就一条仿佛向天际无限延伸的光之径。椰树的剪影映衬在漫天霞光之中,细碎的浪花轻柔地拍打着海岸,奏响舒缓的韵律。我赤脚漫步于沙滩之上,留下的足迹转瞬便被下一阵海浪悄然抹去。我聆听着此起彼伏的涛声,感受着温暖的海风拂过脸庞。在经历了连日忙于学业、适应新生活的奔波之后,这些海边的傍晚时光,给予了我一份难得的宁静与慰藉。

Siloso Beach

Compared with Palawan Beach, the Siloso Beach is livelier and more energetic, with beach volleyball courts, cafés, and people enjoying water sports or simply gathering with friends. Music drifts through the air, and the promenade is always full of joggers, cyclists, and families strolling beneath rows of palm trees. The background is the Shangri-la Sentosa hotel which is popular place for tourists.

与帕拉万海滩相比,西乐索海滩显得更加热闹,也更充满活力。这里设有沙滩排球场与咖啡馆,人们既可以尽情体验各类水上运动,也能与亲朋好友在海边悠闲相聚。空气中飘荡着音乐的旋律,海滨步道上随处可见慢跑者、骑行者,以及在成排棕榈树下漫步的家庭。作为这片海滨背景的一部分,圣淘沙香格里拉酒店静静坐落于此,也成为深受游客喜爱的热门去处。

Unlike most luxury hotels in the city centre, which overlook skyscrapers and busy streets, this hotel faces the sea. Tucked away at the western end of Siloso Beach and surrounded by tropical greenery, it feels like a quiet sanctuary where the pace of life slows down. What I loved most was the view from the room’s balcony. Looking out through the floor-to-ceiling windows, the first thing that caught my attention was the endless blue sea stretching towards the horizon. Sunlight danced across the water, creating countless sparkling reflections that changed with every passing cloud. Rows of coconut palms swayed gracefully in the warm tropical breeze.

与市中心大多数俯瞰摩天大楼与繁忙街道的豪华酒店不同,这家酒店面朝大海,拥有截然不同的景致。它隐匿于西乐索海滩西端,掩映在繁茂的热带绿植之中,宛如一处能让生活节奏逐渐放慢的宁静避风港。我最喜欢的,是客房阳台上的那片景色。透过落地窗向外望去,首先映入眼帘的,便是那片向天际延展、仿佛无边无际的蔚蓝大海。阳光在水面上跃动,随着云朵缓缓飘移,变幻出无数闪烁的光影;成排的椰子树则在温暖的热带微风中轻轻摇曳,构成一幅宁静而生动的海滨画卷。

In my school weekends, I would visit the famous sites in the city center. For me, the city centre of Singapore is more than a collection of famous landmarks. It is a place where the country’s history, which I first learned in social studies lessons, comes alive. As a student, I memorized dates and events for examinations. Years later, walking through these same places, I realized that the lessons were no longer just words in a textbook. They had become part of the landscape around me.

求学期间的周末,我常常前往市中心那些著名的景点游览。对我而言,新加坡市中心并不仅仅是众多地标建筑的集合;它更像是一座让课本中曾经学习过的国家历史逐渐鲜活起来的城市空间。学生时代,为了应付考试,我曾无数次背诵那些历史年代与重要事件。然而多年以后,当我再次漫步于这些承载记忆的地方时,才恍然发现,课本上的文字早已不再只是抽象的知识,而是化作了眼前真实可触的风景的一部分。

Merlion Park

Whenever my friends or relatives visited Singapore, I would often take them on the same route. I usually began at Merlion Park. Standing beside the Merlion, with water continuously flowing from its mouth into Marina Bay. The lion represents the legendary story of discovery when explorer first landed in Singapore, while the fish body reflects the country’s humble origins as a fishing village known as Temasek. Behind the statue rose the gleaming skyline of the financial district, creating a striking contrast between Singapore’s distant past and its modern identity.

每当亲朋好友来到新加坡游玩,我常会带他们走一遍熟悉的游览路线。行程通常始于鱼尾狮公园。站在鱼尾狮旁,只见清澈的水流源源不断地从狮口喷涌而出,汇入滨海湾。狮身象征着探险家初抵新加坡时发现狮子的传奇传说,而鱼尾则承载着这个国家作为名为“淡马锡”(Temasek)的小渔村时期的质朴起源。雕像身后,金融区闪耀的摩天大楼群拔地而起,在新加坡遥远的过去与现代都市面貌之间形成了鲜明而独特的对比。

Raffles Place

From there, the view naturally led towards Raffles Place, the heart of Singapore’s financial centre. Glass skyscrapers now dominate the skyline, housing banks, multinational corporations, and global financial institutions. Yet beneath this modern landscape lies the foundation laid by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819, when Singapore was established as a British trading port.

由此望去,视野自然而然地延伸至新加坡金融中心的核心地带—莱佛士坊。如今,玻璃幕墙摩天大楼构成了这里的主体天际线,汇聚了各类银行、跨国公司及全球性金融机构。然而,在这现代都市景观之下,依然承载着由斯坦福·莱佛士爵士于1819年奠定的基石。当年,正是他将新加坡开辟为英国的贸易港口。

In my social studies and history classes, I learnt that Sir Stamford Raffles introduced the first town plan for Singapore, later known as the Jackson Plan. It organized the young settlement into districts for different communities. In 19th century, Singapore was a sparsely populated island at the Strait of Malacca, but Raffles recognized its extraordinary geographical advantage. His policy of free trade attracted traders from China, the Malay Archipelago, and the Middle East, laying the foundation for the multicultural society that defines Singapore today.

在社会历史课上,我了解到斯坦福·莱佛士爵士曾为新加坡制定了首个城市规划,即后来被称为“杰克逊规划”的蓝图。这份规划将当时的新兴定居点划分为不同的聚居区域,为日后城市的发展奠定了基础。19世纪时,新加坡还只是马六甲海峡上一座人烟稀少的岛屿,但莱佛士敏锐地察觉到了其独特的地理优势。他推行的自由贸易政策吸引了来自中国、马来群岛以及中东地区的商贾与移民,也为新加坡后来形成的多元文化社会格局埋下了深远的根基。

Walking through the Civic District today feels like stepping into that chapter of history. Along the Singapore River stand elegant white colonial buildings whose architecture contrasts sharply with the surrounding glass skyscrapers. Their tall columns, wide verandas, symmetrical façades, and high ceilings were designed not only to reflect British architectural traditions but also to adapt to Singapore’s tropical climate by encouraging natural ventilation.

如今漫步于市政区,仿佛仍能感受到那段历史留下的痕迹。新加坡河畔矗立着一座座优雅的白色殖民风格建筑,这些建筑韵味与周围闪耀的玻璃摩天大楼形成了鲜明对照。这些建筑高耸的立柱、宽阔的游廊、对称的立面,以及挑高天花板的设计,不仅延续了英国建筑传统,也通过促进空气流通,巧妙地适应了新加坡炎热潮湿的热带气候。

Among the most impressive is the former Parliament House, one of Singapore’s oldest surviving government buildings. It has a beautiful neoclassical facade. This building witnessed some of the country’s most important moments, from the Japanese surrender at the end of the Second World War to the political developments that eventually led to Singapore’s independence.

其中最引人注目的建筑之一,便是旧国会大厦。作为新加坡现存最古老的政府建筑之一,它拥有优雅的新古典主义风格外立面。这些历史建筑静静见证了这个国家发展历程中的重要时刻:从二战结束时日军投降,到最终推动新加坡走向独立的政治进程。

Fullerton Hotel

Further along the river is the former Fullerton Building. Once the General Post Office and an important administrative centre during the colonial era, it now serves as the luxurious Fullerton Hotel. Its transformation reflects Singapore’s approach to development: preserving historical architecture while giving old buildings new life.

沿河前行,便可见昔日的富丽敦大厦。这座建筑在殖民时期曾是邮政总局及重要的行政中心,如今已华丽转身,成为豪华的富丽敦酒店。它从历史建筑到现代酒店的蜕变,体现了新加坡的发展理念:在珍视历史遗产的同时,也赋予旧建筑新的生命与价值。

Victoria Concert Hall

Not far away, Victoria Theatre and Victoria Concert Hall continue to host performances more than a century after they were built in 1905 as the Victoria Memorial Hall, which was erected to commemorate the death of Queen Victoria. The name “Victoria” appears throughout Singapore because of its history as a British colony. The clock tower remains one of the familiar landmarks along the river, quietly linking the colonial past with the cultural life of present-day Singapore.

不远处,维多利亚剧院和维多利亚音乐厅至今仍举办着各类演出。这两座建筑始建于1905年,最初被称为“维多利亚纪念堂”,为了缅怀维多利亚女王的逝世。受英国殖民历史的影响,“维多利亚”这一名称在新加坡的城市景观中随处可见。其中的钟楼至今仍是河畔广为人知的地标,静静连接着殖民时期的历史记忆与当代新加坡丰富多彩的文化生活。

National Gallery

What fascinates me most is the contrast. Within a few minutes’ walk, I can move from nineteenth-century colonial buildings to some of the most futuristic skyscrapers in Asia. When I stand in front of the lawn in City Hall, I had a panoramic view of the city. On one side stand the grand colonial buildings: the Old Supreme Court and the former Parliament House which are reminders of the British era. On the other side rises a completely different Singapore: a skyline of glass, steel, and ambitious architecture built after the nation became independent in 1965.

最令我着迷的,正是这种强烈而鲜明的反差。只需步行片刻,我便能从十九世纪的殖民风格建筑中走出,转而置身于亚洲最具未来感的摩天大楼群之间。当我站在市政厅前的草坪上,整座城市的景致尽收眼底:一侧矗立着庄严宏伟的殖民时期建筑(旧最高法院与旧国会大厦),它们静静见证着英国殖民时期的历史;而另一侧,则展现出一个截然不同的新加坡。由玻璃、钢铁与充满雄心的现代建筑共同勾勒出的城市天际线,见证着这个国家自1965年独立以来的发展历程。

Marina Bay Sands

Once upon time, Marina Bay was far less developed. Some of today’s most famous landmarks did not exist. Over the years, I watched new buildings rise, new parks appear, and the waterfront gradually become recognizable cityscapes in the world. One of the most striking symbols of this transformation is the Marina Bay Sands built around 2010. Rising above the skyline of Marina Bay, it is one of Singapore’s most recognizable architectural masterpieces. Three elegant glass towers stand side by side, appearing like giant pillars reaching toward the sky. Resting across their summits is a remarkable structure that resembles a sleek ship floating high above the city. Every tourist will take a photo together with this building to memorize their trips of Singapore.

曾经的滨海湾远不如今日繁华,许多如今闻名于世的地标建筑在当时尚未出现。多年来,我亲眼见证了新建筑不断拔地而起,新公园陆续落成,也目睹了这片滨水区域一步步蜕变为举世闻名的城市景观。在这一巨变过程中,最引人注目的标志之一,便是约于2010年建成的金沙酒店。它屹立于滨海湾的天际线上,成为新加坡最具辨识度的建筑杰作。三座优雅的玻璃塔楼并肩而立,宛如直入云端的擎天巨柱;塔顶横跨着一座独特的建筑结构,造型犹如一艘流线型巨轮,仿佛悬浮于城市上空。几乎每一位来到这里的游客,都会与这座标志性建筑合影,以此留下属于他们的新加坡记忆。

Standing along Marina Bay, the view is especially striking at night. Its illumination shimmer against the skyline, while music often drifts from the outdoor stages. From the seaside promenade, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of the bay, the illuminated city’s skyscrapers, and the sparkling surrounding landmarks.

置身于滨海湾畔,夜晚的景色尤为迷人。璀璨的灯光映照在城市天际线之下,熠熠生辉;户外舞台不时传来悠扬的乐声。沿着海滨步道漫步,游客可以尽览海湾全景、灯火璀璨的摩天大楼,以及周围闪耀的城市地标。

The Esplanade (Theatres on the Bay) has the nick name “Durian” due to its shape. The building is so recognizable because of its two distinctive domes covered with more than 7,000 triangular aluminum sunshades. Opened in 2002 along the Marina Bay waterfront, it makes the arts accessible to everyone. Throughout these years, it hosts hundreds of free performances ranging from local bands and traditional music to dance and school performance.

滨海艺术中心因其独特的外形而被昵称为“大榴莲”。这座建筑极具辨识度,其标志性特征在于两座独特的穹顶,表面覆盖着7000多块三角形铝制遮阳板。该中心于2002年在滨海湾水岸落成,致力于让艺术走近大众。多年来,这里举办了数百场免费演出,涵盖了从本土乐队表演、传统音乐舞蹈及学校CCA演出等多种形式。

Singapore Flyer

The Singapore Flyer which looks like the London Eyes is another quite recognizable landmarks and one of the world’s tallest observation wheels, standing 165 meters high. Completed in 2008, the Singapore Flyer was designed to symbolize the nation’s ambition and confidence as a modern global city. From a distance, its elegant circular form has become an iconic feature of the Marina Bay skyline.

外观酷似“伦敦眼”的新加坡摩天观景轮,是滨海湾另一处极具辨识度的地标,也是全球最高的观景轮之一,高达165米。这座摩天轮于2008年落成,其设计展现了新加坡作为现代化全球都市的雄心与自信。从远处眺望,它优雅的圆形轮廓已成为滨海湾天际线上一道独特而醒目的风景。

Garden by the Bay

On the opposite side of Marina Bay stands the Garden by the Bay. The giant Supertrees, futuristic conservatories, and waterfront gardens show a vision of Singapore that goes beyond simple urban development. Instead of choosing between a modern city and nature, Singapore tried to combine both. This was one of the things that impressed me most over the years. Even as new skyscrapers appeared in the city center, greenery remained an essential part of the city.

滨海湾的另一侧,矗立着滨海湾花园。巨大的“擎天树”、充满未来感的温室,以及延伸于滨水之间的花园景观,共同展现了新加坡超越单纯城市发展的远见与愿景。新加坡并未在现代都市与自然之间做出取舍,而是努力将两者融为一体。这也是多年来这里最令我印象深刻的城市特质:即使市中心不断有新的摩天大楼拔地而起,盎然绿意依然始终是这座城市关键的一部分。

Whenever I walk through the gardens today, I think about how much Singapore has changed since my first arrival. Every time I raised my head, and I would watch new landmarks rise, new buildings emerge, and the skyline continually evolve. Gardens by the Bay is perhaps the clearest symbol of that transformation.

如今,每当我漫步于这些花园之中,总会感叹自初次抵达新加坡以来,这座城市所经历的巨大变化。每每抬头望去,我都能看见新的地标拔地而起,新的建筑不断涌现,城市的天际线也在岁月流转中持续演变。而滨海湾花园,或许正是这场蜕变最鲜明、最具象征意义的见证。

The most iconic feature in this garden is undoubtedly the Supertree Grove. Rising between 25 and 50 meters above the ground, these towering steel structures resemble giant trees from a science-fiction world. Covered with thousands of orchids, ferns, bromeliads, and other tropical plants, they are not merely sculptures but living vertical gardens.

这座花园中最具标志性的景观无疑是“擎天树丛”(Supertree Grove)。这些高耸的钢结构建筑拔地而起,高度在25至50米之间,宛如科幻世界中的参天巨树。它们覆盖着数以千计的兰花、蕨类植物、凤梨科植物及其他热带植被,不仅是雕塑艺术品,更是充满生机的垂直花园。

The extraordinary diversity of plants fascinated me as well. I had never imagined that a single garden could bring together vegetation from so many different climates and continents. I felt like walking through a living museum of the world’s most unusual plants like Madagascar Palm, Baobab Trees, Nepenthes…

这里令人惊叹的植物多样性,也深深吸引着我。我从未想过,一座花园竟能汇聚来自如此多元气候区域与不同大陆的植物。漫步其中,仿佛置身于一座鲜活的自然博物馆,眼前展示着来自世界各地的奇特植物比如马达加斯加棕榈、猴面包树、猪笼草等等。。。

The outdoor gardens and lakes are home to elegant Amazon water lilies, one of my favorite sights. They are the most eye-catching aquatic plants. Their broad, circular leaves float effortlessly on the still water, while delicate flowers bloom in shades of white and pink. On calm mornings, the flowers are perfectly reflected on the water’s surface, creating a scene that feels almost like a landscape painting of Claude Monet.

户外花园的湖泊中,生长着优雅的亚马逊王莲,这是我最钟爱的景致之一。它们堪称最令人惊叹的水生植物:宽阔而圆润的叶片轻盈地漂浮于静谧的水面之上,娇嫩的花朵则绽放出白色与粉色交织的柔和色彩。在风平浪静的清晨,花影清晰地倒映于水面之中,营造出一种宛如克劳德·莫奈风景画般梦幻而宁静的意境。

I enjoy walking along the seaside of Marina Bay. The skyline changed continuously during the years that I was growing up here. As a secondary school student, I learned Singapore’s history from textbooks. As an adult, I saw those chapters reflected in the city itself, from the colonial buildings around City Hall to the futuristic towers of Marina Bay. That is why these areas remains one of my favorite places. Within a single walk, I can move through more than two centuries of history and, at the same time, see a glimpse of the future that the city is still trying to build.

我尤其喜欢沿着滨海湾的滨水步道漫步。在我于此成长的岁月里,这里的城市天际线不断变化与延展。学生时代,我曾通过课本认识新加坡的历史;如今步入成年,我则亲眼见证了那些历史篇章如何在城市景观中留下印记:从市政厅周边保存至今的殖民风格建筑,到滨海湾充满未来感的摩天大楼。正因如此,这些地方始终是我最喜爱的去处。只需一次漫步,我便能穿越两百多年的历史长河,同时感受这座城市正在努力描绘的未来蓝图。

After O level exam, I entered the Victoria Junior College in 2008. For many students in Singapore, junior college is one of the next stages of education similar to pre-university school. The two years preparing for the A Levels often feel intense, because the results influence which university and path may open afterward. Looking back, my time at Victoria Junior College was one of the most demanding periods of my student life, but also one of the most memorable.

2008年,在完成“O水准”考试后,我进入了维多利亚初级学院就读。对于新加坡许多学生而言,初级学院是中学毕业后的重要升学阶段,其性质类似于大学预科。备战“A水准”考试的两年,往往伴随着巨大的压力,因为考试成绩在很大程度上决定了未来的大学选择与发展方向。回首往事,在维多利亚初级学院度过的岁月,虽是我学生时代最具挑战性的阶段之一,却也成为我记忆中最珍贵难忘的篇章。

East Coast Park

The campus was just five minutes’ walk distance from the East Coast, and that proximity changed the rhythm of life. Unlike the dense urban image many people have of Singapore, my memories of those school days are filled with open skies and the blue sea which is always my favorite landscape.

维多利亚校园距离东海岸仅五分钟步行路程,这样近的地理位置悄然改变了我的生活节奏。与许多人印象中新加坡密集而繁忙的都市景象不同,我对那段求学岁月的记忆中,更多的是开阔的天空与蔚蓝的大海。那片景色始终是我最中意的风景。

Life there required discipline and persistence. Weekdays were filled with lectures, tutorials, assignments. On some afternoons, after classes ended, I could see the blue water stretching into the distance. I would walk along the East Coast promenade beneath rows of coconut trees. The sea breeze softened the heat of the day, and for a while the pressure of studying seemed to drift away with the sound of the waves.

那时的生活,需要的不仅是自律,更是坚持。平日里,我的日程总被讲座、辅导课以及各类作业填满。有时课后,我会望向那片向远方延展的蔚蓝海域,沿着东海岸的步道漫步,穿行于一排排椰树之间。海风轻轻拂去白日的燥热,而在那一刻,学业带来的压力仿佛也随着阵阵涛声渐渐消散。

Weekends felt like small rewards after a week of studying. Sometimes I went with friends to the East Coast food village. We would sit together eating freshly fried chicken wings and drinking cold coconut juice while talking about school, exams and future plans. Other times, we rented bicycles and rode along the coastline. With the sea breeze greeting me and the wheels rolling along the coastal path, those simple, carefree moments remain to this day among my most cherished memories of my junior college years.

经过一周的学习,周末便像是一份小小的奖赏。有时,我会和朋友们前往东海岸的美食村。我们围坐在一起,品尝刚刚炸好的鸡翅,喝着冰凉的椰汁,聊起学校生活、考试压力,以及对未来的种种计划。还有些时候,我们会租上自行车,沿着海岸线缓缓骑行。海风迎面而来,车轮伴随着海岸步道向前延伸,那些简单而自在的时光,至今仍是我对初级学院岁月中最珍贵的记忆之一。

At the time, those moments felt ordinary. We rarely thought they would become memories worth keeping. But now, even years after graduation, when I think back to that period, what returns first is not exam scores. I remember the sea reflecting the evening light, the rows of coconut trees, the laughter of friends over simple food, and the feeling of freedom hidden inside a busy student life.

那时,那些时刻看似平凡无奇,我们很少意识到,它们终将在多年以后成为值得珍藏的回忆。然而,即使毕业多年,每当回望那段岁月,最先浮现在脑海中的并不是考试成绩,而是那些简单却深刻的画面:映照着晚霞的海面、成排的椰树、朋友们围坐在一起,伴随着简单饭菜而展开的欢声笑语,以及那段忙碌学生生活中所蕴藏的自由与惬意。

Clarke Quay

After the end of A-Level examinations in Dec 2009, life suddenly slowed down. There was 7 months gap before university started. Like many students, I took the opportunity to experience working life. I found a part-time job as a waiter in a hotel at the Clarke Quay, serving guests from all over the world. It was my first taste of earning my own salary and learning what it meant to be responsible in a professional environment. Standing for long hours, carrying trays, and serving customers was tiring, but it taught me lessons that could never be learned in a classroom.

2009年12月“A水准”考试结束后,我的生活节奏突然慢了下来。在大学开学之前,我迎来了长达七个月的空档期。像许多学生一样,我选择利用这段时间走入职场,体验与校园截然不同的生活。我在克拉码头一家酒店找到了一份兼职服务员的工作,负责接待来自世界各地的宾客。这是我第一次凭借自己的劳动获得收入,也让我开始理解在职场环境中承担责任的意义。长时间站立、端盘送餐,以及面对不同顾客提供服务,固然是一段辛苦的经历,但也让我收获了许多课堂之外无法学到的宝贵经验。

Nanyang Technological University

Looking back, those months formed a bridge between school and adulthood. In July 2020, I started my university life in Nanyang Technological University. Among all the places I studied in Singapore, it remains the most beautiful in my eyes. At the Yunnan garden stands the iconic memorial gate, one of the symbols linking the university to its origins. It traces back to Nanyang University, founded in 1955 through the vision and support of the Chinese community in Southeast Asia. The gate quietly connects the modern university with its historical roots.

回首往事,那段时光成为了我从校园生活迈向成年的重要桥梁。2020年7月,我在南洋理工大学开启了大学生涯。在我于新加坡求学经历过的所有地方中,这里至今仍是我心中最美丽的一处。云南园内矗立着标志性的牌坊,它不仅是校园景观的一部分,也是连接这所大学与其历史渊源的重要象征。这座牌坊追溯着南洋大学的源流。那所由东南亚华人社群怀抱愿景、共同筹建,并于1955年创办的学府。它静静伫立于校园之中,将现代大学的活力与深厚的历史根基紧密相连。

Yunnan Garden

Yunnan Garden carries a different atmosphere from the rest of the university. Designed in the style of a traditional Chinese landscape garden, it combines water, stone, bridges, trees, and carefully arranged spaces to create a sense of calm and balance. Walking there in the evening felt like stepping into another world. There were flowering plants throughout the seasons, quiet ponds reflecting the sky, shaded paths, and corners where students sat to read or simply enjoy the silence.

云南园的氛围,与校园其他区域截然不同。它采用传统中式山水园林的设计理念,巧妙融合水景、奇石、桥梁、林木,以及经过精心布局的空间,营造出一种宁静而和谐的意境。傍晚漫步其中,仿佛进入了另一个世界:四季花卉在园中悄然绽放,静谧的池塘倒映着天际的光影,林荫小径蜿蜒穿行于绿意之间,还有许多安静的角落,供学生静心阅读,或独自享受片刻的宁静

Unlike the dense urban landscape that many people associate with Singapore, the campus felt open and almost retreat-like. It was built on rolling land and surrounded by greenery. There were red-roofed residential halls scattered across the hills, small lakes reflecting the changing sky, tropical forests preserved between buildings, and gardens woven naturally into daily student life. In the mornings, the air often felt fresher than in the city, and after rain the scent of wet grass and trees lingered on the pathways.

与许多人印象中新加坡密集而繁忙的城市景观不同,这座校园给人的感觉格外开阔舒朗,宛如一处远离尘嚣的静谧之所。校园依循起伏的地势而建,绿意环绕其间。红顶的学生宿舍错落分布于山丘之上,小湖泊映照着天空流转的光影,建筑之间保留着葱郁的热带林木,而花园则自然而然地融入学生的日常生活。清晨时分,空气往往比城市中更加清新;一场雨后,湿润草木散发出的芬芳便久久萦绕在林间小径。

The Hive

Today, many people associate NTU with The Hive which is the famous learning hub with its distinctive rounded towers that resembles beehives. It has surname ‘Xiaolongbao’ because it really looks like bamboo steamers of xiaolongbao stacked together. It has become one of the university’s most recognizable landmarks and appears in countless photographs. Yet it was completed after I had already graduated, so my memories belong to an earlier NTU. When I return and see The Hive standing there now, it feels like seeing a younger generation’s version of the university.

如今,许多人提起南洋理工大学(NTU),都会想到“The Hive”(蜂巢)。这座著名的学习中心以独特的圆形塔楼设计闻名,外观宛如蜂巢一般;由于其形态酷似一层层叠起的竹蒸笼屉,它也被学生亲切地戏称为“小笼包”。如今,“The Hive”已成为校园中最具辨识度的建筑之一,出现在无数照片之中。

For me, I spent 8 years studying in Singapore. Finishing secondary school led to junior college, finishing A Levels led to university. But graduation in NTU marked something more final, it marked the transition from adolescence into adulthood. It was the end of nearly a decade of studies and the beginning of working life. Standing at the graduation ceremony in July 2014 in graduation robes, I realized that Singapore had quietly become more than a place where I came to study. It had become the place where I grew up.

我在新加坡度过了八年的求学岁月:从中学升入初级学院,再通过“A水准”考试进入大学。然而,南洋理工大学的毕业典礼却承载着更深远的意义.它象征着我从少年走向成年的蜕变。那不仅是近十年求学生涯的终点,也是迈向职场人生的起点。2014年7月,当我身穿学士袍站在毕业典礼现场时,我意识到,新加坡早已不只是我求学的地方,而是成为了见证我成长、陪伴我蜕变的家园。

Graduating from Nanyang Technological University marked the end of my years as a student, but it also marked the beginning of a new chapter in my life. For the first time, I entered the workforce and began building a career in Singapore. The island that had once been a place of study gradually became the place where I lived, worked, and planned my future. As the years passed, I became a Singapore Permanent Resident, and later, a Singapore citizen. For so many years, what impresses me most is its environment.

从南洋理工大学毕业,既意味着我学生时代的结束,也开启了人生新篇章的序幕。初入职场后,我开始在新加坡建立自己的事业。这座曾经只是求学之地的岛屿,逐渐成为我生活、工作,并规划未来的家园。随着岁月流逝,我先后成为新加坡永久居民,并最终成为新加坡公民。多年来,在这座城市生活的过程中,最令我印象深刻的特质之一,莫过于它独特的环境。

Singapore is often described as a “City in a Garden”. One of the most remarkable aspects of Singapore is the way nature coexists with urban life. In the Central Business District, towering skyscrapers of glass and steel rise above streets lined with rain trees and tropical palms. Vertical gardens climb the façades of office buildings, rooftop parks create green spaces high above the city.

新加坡常被称为“花园城市”,而其中最引人注目的地方,便是自然与都市生活之间的和谐共生。在中央商务区,鳞次栉比的玻璃与钢铁摩天大楼拔地而起,却与雨树、热带棕榈树环绕的街道相映成趣;写字楼外墙上绿意盎然的垂直花园,与高空中的屋顶花园彼此呼应,共同塑造出一片独具特色的城市绿洲。

Fort Canning Park

As a resident, I became interested in a different side of the country. Instead of rushing to the most popular tourist destinations, I found myself enjoying places where Singaporeans spend their everyday lives. I walked through the quiet trails of Fort Canning Park, where history is hidden beneath lush greenery and ancient trees. Standing on a hill in the heart of the city, the park offers a peaceful escape from the surrounding skyscrapers. It is hard to imagine that just beyond the trees lie Orchard Road, Clarke Quay, and the busy Central Business District.

作为一名居民,我开始逐渐探索这个国家不为游客所知的一面。我不再急于前往那些热门旅游景点,而是更喜欢走近新加坡人日常生活中的那些寻常去处。我漫步于福康宁公园幽静的小径之间,那里郁郁葱葱的绿植与古老树木掩映着岁月留下的历史痕迹。这座公园坐落于市中心的一处高地之上,为人们提供了一片远离周围摩天大楼喧嚣的宁静天地。很难想象,就在这片葱郁绿意之外,便是乌节路、克拉码头,以及繁忙的中央商务区。

Pancur Larangan

Walking through the park, I often felt as though I was travelling through different periods of Singapore’s history. Long before the arrival of the British, this hill was believed to be the seat of the Malay kings of ancient Singapura. This Pancur Larangan garden on the way to the hilltop means “Forbidden Spring” in Malay. According to historical accounts and local legend, this was once a sacred spring reserved exclusively for the royal family of the ancient Kingdom of Singapura. Ordinary people were forbidden from using its waters, giving rise to the name that has survived for centuries.

漫步公园,我常有种仿佛穿梭于新加坡不同历史时期的感觉。早在英国人到来之前,这座山就被认为是古代马来君王的驻地。通往山顶途中经过的这座名为“Pancur Larangan”花园,在马来语中意为“禁泉”。据史料记载与民间传说,这里曾是一处专供古代王国皇室使用的圣泉。因严禁平民取用泉水,故而得名,这一名称也沿用至今。

In the nineteenth century, Sir Stamford Raffles chose the hill as the site of his residence because of its commanding view over the Singapore River and the harbour. Later, the hill became an important military stronghold, and during the Second World War it served as the headquarters of the British Malaya Command. It was here that British commanders made the difficult decision to surrender Singapore to the Japanese in 1942.

19世纪,莱佛士爵士选中这座山作为官邸所在地,正是因为这里地势高耸,拥有俯瞰新加坡河与港口的开阔视野。后来,这座山逐渐成为重要的军事据点;第二次世界大战期间,它更成为英军马来亚司令部的指挥中心。正是在这里,英国指挥官们于1942年做出了向日军投降新加坡这一艰难而沉重的决定。这片如今被绿意环绕的宁静之地,也因此承载着新加坡历史上一段重要而深刻的记忆。

Now the park has wide lawns stretching beneath towering rain trees, and shaded pathways wind through tropical gardens, and colorful flowering plants brighten every corner. Ancient trees stand beside archaeological sites, while historic gates, stone walls, and colonial relics quietly blend into the landscape.

如今,公园内绿草如茵,在参天雨树的荫蔽下铺展开来;林荫小径蜿蜒穿行于热带花园之间,色彩斑斓的花卉点缀着每一个角落。古老树木静静伫立于考古遗址旁,而历史悠久的城门、石墙,以及殖民时期留下的遗迹,也悄然融入这片自然景致之中。

The famous spiral staircase at the exit of the park descends through a circular opening surrounded by enormous rain trees. Looking upward from the bottom, the layers of branches and leaves frame the sky like a natural cathedral. It has become one of Singapore’s most photographed locations.

公园出口处那座著名的螺旋楼梯,穿过一处被巨大雨树环绕的圆形开口,蜿蜒向下延伸。从底部仰望,只见层层交叠的枝叶舒展开来,宛如一座天然的大教堂,将澄澈的天空框入其中。这里如今已成为新加坡最受欢迎的网红拍照地点之一。

Rail Corridor

Singapore feels so different from many other global cities. Despite its high population density, the city rarely feels dominated by concrete. Instead, tropical trees, flowering shrubs, lakes, and parks create a sense of openness and calm. In many cities, disused railway lines are demolished and quickly replaced by new buildings. In Singapore, the former railway was preserved and transformed into a continuous ecological corridor that connects parks, forests, and nature reserves across the island. It is a perfect place for residents to have a jogging and approaching nature in the weekend.

新加坡给人的感受,与许多其他国际大都市截然不同。尽管人口高度密集,这座城市却很少让人产生被钢筋水泥包围的压迫感;相反,热带树木、花卉灌木、湖泊与公园共同营造出一种开阔而宁静的城市氛围。在许多城市,废弃的铁路线往往会被拆除,并被新的建筑开发所取代;而在新加坡,这些旧铁路线则被保留下来,并改造成一条贯穿全岛的生态廊道,将各处的公园、森林与自然保护区连接起来。如今,这里已成为居民周末慢跑、骑行,以及亲近自然的理想去处。

Nowadays, I live in the neighborhood not far away from Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, one of Singapore’s oldest and most important, protected rainforests. Whenever I have free time at the weekend, I enjoy walking through the reserve to the summit of Bukit Timah Hill, the highest natural point in Singapore, standing at just 163 meters above sea level. Although the hill is modest in height compared with mountains in other countries, the journey is surprisingly rewarding. The trail winds through one of the few remaining patches of primary rainforest in Singapore, where towering trees form a dense canopy overhead, allowing only scattered rays of sunlight to reach the forest floor.

如今,我住在离武吉知马自然保护区不远的街区,这里是新加坡历史最悠久、最重要的受保护雨林。每逢周末有空,我都会漫步穿过保护区,登上武吉知马山顶。武吉知马山是新加坡的最高点,海拔仅163米。虽然与一些国家的山峰相比,这座山并不算高,但这段旅程却令人惊喜。经由步道蜿蜒穿过新加坡仅存的几片原始雨林,高耸入云的树木形成茂密的树冠,只有零星的阳光才能照射到林地。

One of the things I have to appreciate most is how well the natural environment is protected inSingapore. Even near my home, I often encounter animals that remind me how closely the city and nature coexist. During my walks through nearby parks and nature reserves, it is common to see squirrels darting effortlessly between tree branches, pausing for a moment before disappearing into the canopy. Large lizards move slowly along the edges of lakes and streams. Elegant swans and other water birds glide across the reservoirs, their reflections mirrored on the still water.

我最欣赏新加坡的一点,便是自然环境受到的良好保护。即使在住所附近,我也常常能够遇见各种野生动物,这让我真切感受到城市与自然之间如何紧密共存。漫步于附近的公园与自然保护区时,经常能看到松鼠在枝头轻盈穿梭。它们偶尔停下脚步,警觉地张望片刻,随后便悄然隐入茂密的树冠之中。体型硕大的蜥蜴沿着湖泊与溪流边缘缓缓爬行,仿佛早已成为这片自然景观的一部分。优雅的天鹅与其他水鸟则在水库上悠然滑行,清晰的倒影映照在平静的水面之上,构成一幅宁静而生动的画面。

Singapore was the first foreign country I ever visited, and it became the gateway that opened my eyes to the wider world. Looking back over the past twenty years, my relationship with Singapore has evolved alongside my own life. It is the place that gave me the confidence to begin every journey that followed and also becomes my second hometown. Each time I walked through those arrival halls of Changi Airport with words ‘Welcome home’ and felt the familiar humid air again, there was always a quiet thought in my mind: I’m back home!

新加坡是我踏入海外世界的第一个国家,也成为我向更广阔天地打开视野的一扇窗口。回首过去二十年,我与新加坡的缘分始终随着人生阶段的变化而不断延伸。这里不仅赋予了我探索世界、开启此后每一次旅程的勇气与信心,更逐渐成为了我的第二故乡。每当我穿过樟宜机场那写着“欢迎回家”的到达大厅,再次感受到迎面而来的熟悉湿润空气时,心中总会浮现一个平静而笃定的念头:

我回家了!

Life Inside Fujian’s Ancient Earthen Homes

走进福建古土楼的烟火人生

Fujian Tulou are traditional communal residences built by the Hakka and other Han Chinese people in the mountainous areas of Fujian Province. These large, earthen buildings are circular or square, designed to house multiple families, functioning both as homes and fortresses. Constructed between the 12th and 20th centuries, tulou structures are made from rammed earth, mixed with stones, bamboo, wood, and other natural materials. Their thick walls provide insulation and protection from bandits and natural disasters. Inside, the buildings are arranged around a central courtyard, with rooms for storage, cooking, sleeping, and socializing.

福建土楼,是福建省山区由客家人及其他汉族群体共同建造的传统集体居所。这些宏伟的建筑多呈圆形或方形,可容纳众多家庭同住,既是安居之所,也是防御之堡。土楼自12世纪起兴建,延续至20世纪,主要以夯土筑成,并辅以石块、竹材、木料等天然材料。厚实的墙体既能隔热御寒,又可抵御盗匪侵扰与自然灾害。其内部空间环绕中央庭院而布置,庭院内设有储藏间、灶房、卧室与公共活动空间。

I visited the Nanjing area in the end of 2024. The village scene in this region is a picturesque blend of traditional architecture, lush nature, and communal rural life. Rolling hills and mountains surround the villages, covered with bamboo groves, pine forests, and terraced tea fields. Clear streams run through the valleys, beside narrow stone paths. Fog settles over the mountains in the early morning, creating a mystical, tranquil atmosphere.

2024年底,我来到南靖游览。这里的乡村景致宛如画卷,传统建筑与葱郁的自然风光、淳朴的乡村生活交织在一起。连绵起伏的丘陵环抱着村落,竹林、松林与层层梯田茶园点缀山野。清澈的溪流在谷间潺潺流淌,两旁蜿蜒着古老的石板路。清晨时分,薄雾弥漫群山,氤氲出一种静谧而神秘的气息。

Life in these villages follows the rhythm of nature. The air is filled with the scent of wood smoke, fresh soil, and steaming food. Stone-paved paths wind through the village, often lined with moss and wildflowers. Several tulous are grouped together, forming a cluster of earthen castles amidst the green backdrop.

这些村庄的生活仿佛随自然的节拍缓缓展开。空气中弥散着柴火的余温、泥土的清新与热气腾腾食物的芬芳。石板小路蜿蜒穿行于村中,两侧常覆着青苔,点缀着野花。几座土楼错落而立,如同质朴的堡垒,静静镶嵌在层叠的绿意之间。

My travel in Fujian was really refreshing for me. As I stepped away from the fast-paced, high-rise rhythm of life in Singapore, I felt a deep wave of relief and excitement wash over me. It was as if the noise, the deadlines, and the constant rush melted away the moment I arrived in this serene village. The tranquil rhythm of rural life: the slow mornings, the sound of roosters, the sight of villagers tending to their fields awakened something in me. I felt no longer tethered to my phone or the clock and found the meaning of life.

福建之行让我身心焕然一新。远离新加坡快节奏、高楼林立的都市生活,我仿佛卸下了沉重的枷锁,一股久违的解脱与欣喜油然而生。所有的喧嚣、deadline与无休止的奔波,都在我踏入这片宁静村落的瞬间悄然消散。这里的生活节奏恬淡安然:清晨的微风伴着公鸡的啼鸣,田间劳作的身影映入眼帘,这一切唤醒了我内心深处的宁静与安定。我仿佛挣脱了手机与时钟的羁绊,重新找回了生活的意义。

Hegui Lou is one of the most remarkable and unique tulou structures. It was my first tulou visited in this area. Built in 1732, Hegui Lou is a square-shaped building, with four stories and over 200 rooms. The name “Hegui” means “Harmony and Nobility”, symbolizing unity and high moral values of the clan. I was standing at the entrance set within thick rammed earth walls. The wooden door panels are thick and reinforced with iron studs and metal strips. Over the door, I found a solemn and ancient wooden plaque bearing its name as well as poetic couplets written on red scrolls.

和贵楼是当地最引人注目极具特色的土楼之一,也是我在此参观的第一座土楼。始建于1732年,它呈方形结构,共四层,拥有两百余间房。楼名“和贵”,寓意和谐与高贵,象征着家族的团结与高尚品德。踏入厚实的夯土墙之内,首先映入眼帘的是以铁钉与金属条牢牢加固的沉重木门。门上悬挂着一方题有楼名的木匾,两侧则贴着写有红字的对联,庄重而古雅。

What makes it especially unique is that it was built on a marshland, an uncommon choice for such heavy structures. Its foundation is made of wooden stakes, driven deep into the soft soil. The building’s rammed earth walls, more than a meter thick, have withstood floods, earthquakes, and wars for nearly 300 years. Above the entrance are some small observation windows, used historically to monitor approaching visitors or defend against intruders. Red lanterns hang along the eaves and add a splash of color and warmth to the austere and simple appearance.

它的独特之处在于建于沼泽之上,这在如此厚重的建筑中极为罕见。地基由木桩深深扎入松软的泥土,以支撑整个庞然大物。厚逾一米的夯土墙,经受了近三百年的洪水、地震与战火的洗礼,依然巍然屹立。入口上方开有数扇小窗,昔日用于监视访客或抵御外敌。屋檐下悬挂的红灯笼,则为这素朴的外观平添一抹温暖与生气。

Behind the towering earthen walls of Hegui Lou, at the edge of a gently sloping field, lies a lush patch of sugar cane. The tall, green stalks sway lightly in the breeze. The field is small but thriving, a reminder of the self-sufficient lifestyle the residents have upheld for generations. A local resident fed long stalks of sugar cane into a hand-cranked press. The machine groans slightly as the stalks are crushed, releasing a stream of cool, pale green juice.

和贵楼高耸的土墙背后,在缓坡田野的尽头,生长着一片繁茂的甘蔗。高大而碧绿的甘蔗秆随微风轻轻摇曳。虽不成规模,却生机盎然,仿佛映照着当地人世代自给自足的生活。只见一位居民将长长的甘蔗送入手摇榨汁机,伴随轻微的嘎吱声,坚韧的蔗秆被慢慢压碎,涓涓淡绿色的汁液随之流出,清凉甘甜。

I lived in the small town called Yun Shuiyao for two days. Its name, which translates to “Ballad of Cloud and Water”, perfectly captures the town’s dreamlike atmosphere. It is surrounded by lush green hills and rice paddies. The streets of Yunshuiyao are paved with smooth river stones, worn by time and footsteps. Traditional wooden houses line the narrow lanes and their dark tiled roofs and red lanterns show the town’s historic charm.

我在云水谣小镇住了两天。小镇的名字完美地诠释了如梦似幻的氛围。周围环绕着郁郁葱葱的青山和稻田。云水谣的街道铺满了光滑的河石,饱经岁月和脚步的侵蚀。传统的木屋排列在狭窄的小巷里,深色的瓦片屋顶和红色的灯笼彰显着小镇的历史魅力。

The most iconic feature of the town is the meandering river that flows gently through it, reflecting the sky and the trees on its calm surface. Along its banks, there are massive ancient banyan trees, some over 800 years old, with their gnarled roots sprawling across stone paths and their branches forming a canopy overhead. I really enjoyed the life here, listening to the soft murmur of the stream and the whisper of wind through bamboo. Time seemed to slow down here.

小镇最具标志性的景观,莫过于那条蜿蜒流淌的河流。平静的水面如一面明镜,将天空与树木的倒影温柔地揽入怀中。河岸两旁矗立着参天古树,其中不少已有八百余年树龄,盘根错节的根须蜿蜒在石板路上,枝叶繁茂,织就一片片清凉的浓荫。在这里生活,我倍感宁静,耳畔萦绕着潺潺溪水与竹林间轻柔的风声,仿佛时光都慢了下来。

Yunshuiyao became well-known after it was featured in the Chinese romantic film “The Knot”. Scattered throughout Yunshuiyao are several well-preserved tulous, which have been home to generations of Hakka families. These earthen fortresses blend beautifully into the natural landscape, offering a sense of community, security, and tradition.

小镇因中国爱情电影《云水谣》的取景而名声远扬。云水谣田间点缀着几座保存完好的土楼,昔日是客家人世代安居的家园。土楼与周围的山水风光相映成趣,营造出浓厚的社区氛围、安宁的归属感与深厚的传统意蕴。

Huaiyuan Lou is the most well-preserved and architecturally representative tulou in Fujian Province. Built in 1905 during the late Qing Dynasty, it was constructed by the Jiang family, who were prosperous tea merchants and landowners. The name means ‘Cherishing Distant’ in Chinese. The structure is made with rammed earth walls, over 1 meter thick, supported by a wooden framework that has stood firm for over a century. There is only one heavily fortified gate connecting inside and outside.

怀远楼是福建省保存最完好、最具代表性的土楼。它建于清末民初的1905年,由富商兼地主蒋氏家族兴建,其名字意为“怀念远方”。楼体以夯土筑墙,厚逾一米,坚固的木构架支撑着整座建筑,百年风雨仍巍然屹立。楼内外仅开一扇坚固的大门供人们进出。

It has two concentric rings. The outer ring is four stories high, with 32 rooms per floor, housing sleeping quarters and storage. The timber beams, columns, and staircases are arranged in concentric rings to create tiers of rooms stacked three to five stories high. The upper structures are capped with tiled, slightly upturned eaves, supported by a web of timber rafters. Rainwater is efficiently drained into the inner courtyard. Wooden columns are joined by horizontal beams using traditional mortise-and-tenon techniques without nails.

它由两个同心圆环组成。外环高四层,每层设有32间房间,用作居舍和储藏室。木梁、木柱与楼梯环环相扣,形成三至五层高的层叠房间。上部结构铺以瓦片,屋檐微微翘起,由木椽稳稳支撑。雨水被巧妙地引入内院。木柱与横梁之间采用传统榫卯工艺,无需钉子即可紧密结合。

The inner ring is smaller and contains ancestral halls and communal spaces. Central to Hakka belief is the idea that deceased ancestors continue to watch over and protect their descendants. Showing respect through rituals ensures family prosperity and avoids misfortune. Ancestral hall with an altar, ancestral tablets, and painted couplets is the most important building. Wells, kitchens, and storerooms are placed in this area for communal use.

内环规模较小,内部设有祠堂与公共空间。客家人的信仰核心在于祖先会持续守护后代,当代人通过仪式对祖先表达敬意,以保家族兴旺、避祸免灾。祠堂是最为重要的建筑,内部设有祭坛、祖先牌位及对联。水井、厨房和储藏室亦位于此处,供居民日常使用。

This is the panoramic view. The central courtyard is paved with cobblestones, where daily life and communal events unfold. The interior reflects a highly organized lifestyle, with rooms assigned by generation and seniority. Decorative wooden carvings, ancestral tablets, and red lanterns enhance the cultural richness of the space.

这是庭院全景。中央庭院铺有鹅卵石,是日常生活和社区活动的场所。室内空间体现了高度有序的生活方式,房间按辈分和资历划分。装饰性的木雕、祖先牌位和红灯笼突现了这里的文化底蕴。

Unlike some older tulou, Huaiyuan Lou remains largely intact and still functions as a living residence. Residents still live in the building, maintaining traditional Hakka customs, such as ancestral worship, communal cooking, and shared farming. I was able to climb up the floors and see the local life. Outside wooden railings, freshly washed clothes are hung out to dry. Shirts, pants, and towels flap gently in the mountain breeze, swaying against the red backdrop of the wooden walls.

与一些年久失修的土楼不同,怀远楼几乎完好无损,如今仍作为民居使用。楼中的居民延续着传统客家习俗:祭祖、共炊、共耕,生活气息浓厚。我沿着几层楼梯缓缓而上,静静观察这里的日常。楼外的木栏杆上晾着刚洗净的衣物,衬衫、裤子和毛巾在山风中轻轻摆动,在红色木墙的映衬下,显得生动而富有韵律。

Along sunny spots, residents have laid out trays filled with vegetables like sliced radishes, chili peppers, and bamboo shoots to dry under the afternoon sun. The air is filled with a subtle mix of earthy, sun-baked scents. Homemade sausages or strips of cured meat are also strung up on wooden poles, slowly aging in the open air. It was really an interesting and unique trip to see the Hakka’s life that I have never experienced. The Hakka is a subgroup of the Han Chinese people with their own distinct language, culture, and traditions. They traced their roots to northern China, but over centuries, they migrated southward due to wars, famine, and social unrest. They settled mainly in southern provinces such as Guangdong, Fujian, and Jiangxi. Because they often arrived as migrants or newcomers, they were called “guest families” by local populations.

阳光充足的地方,居民们会将托盘摆放整齐,里面盛满了萝卜片、辣椒和竹笋等蔬菜,在午后的阳光下缓缓晾晒。空气中弥漫着泥土的芳香与阳光轻轻烘烤蔬菜的微妙气息。自制的香肠和腌肉条也被挂在木杆上,在露天中慢慢熟化。这次旅程既有趣又独特,让我得以深入了解客家人的生活,这是我此前从未体验过的。客家人是汉族的一个分支,拥有独特的语言、文化和传统。他们的祖源可追溯至中国北方,但几个世纪以来,由于战争、饥荒和社会动荡,他们不断南迁,最终主要定居在广东、福建和江西等南方省份。由于他们多为移民或新迁入的群体,当地人称他们为客居的人。

In the courtyard stands an ancient stone well, a silent witness to centuries of life unfolding within the earthen walls. The inside of well is surrounded by a simple stone curb, its surface now softened by a thick blanket of green moss. Tiny droplets of water glisten on the moss in the morning light. The well still provides clear and deep water to the local residents who lower a metal bucket on a rope, drawing water with a slow rhythm in the same way their ancestors did a hundred years ago.

庭院中央,矗立着一口古老的石井,静静守望着土墙内百年的光阴。井旁环绕着简朴的石栏,如今厚厚的绿色苔藓悄然覆盖其壁,表面柔和如绒。晨光洒下,细小的水珠在苔藓间闪烁微光。时至今日,这口井仍为村民提供清澈而深邃的水源。他们用绳索系着金属桶,缓缓汲水,仿佛与百年前的祖先在时间里默契相连。

I took two days to travel all the scenic areas. On the second day, I visited the Tianluokeng which is the most iconic and most photographed tulou sites. Located on a terraced hillside, the cluster is called the “Four Dishes and One Soup” because of its unique layout. One square tulou (the “soup”) sits in the middle. Surrounding it are four round tulous (the “four dishes”). There is a platform on the roadside for travelers to take photos.

我总共经历两天时间游遍了南靖土楼的所有景区。第二天,我参观了田螺坑景区,它是最具标志性、拍照最多的土楼群落。田螺坑土楼群坐落在梯田般的山坡上,因其独特的布局而被称为 “四菜一汤”。一座方形土楼(“汤”)坐落在中间,周围环绕着四座圆形土楼(“四菜”)。路边有一个平台,供游客拍照。

Afterwards, I went down the staircases and visited them one by one. Built between the 15th and 20th centuries, these tulous with similar thick rammed-earth walls showcase the Hakka people’s communal living as well but they are smaller than the Huaiyuan Lou I visited the last day.

之后我顺着楼梯走下,逐一参观。这些土楼建于15世纪至20世纪之间,同样有着厚实的夯土墙,展现了客家人的集体生活,但比我前一天参观的怀远楼要小一些。

This cluster sits in a valley, surrounded by layer upon layer of rice terraces that climb the slopes of the green mountains. From above, the terraces look like rippling steps carved into the hillside. Traditionally, these terraces were cultivated with rice as the staple crop, sustained by ingenious irrigation systems that channel mountain spring water down through the fields.

这片梯田隐匿在山谷之间,层层叠叠,如同青山绿水间自然铺开的画卷。俯瞰之下,梯田宛若山坡上轻轻荡开的涟漪,随山势起伏。这里传统上种植水稻,巧妙的灌溉系统将清澈的山泉引入田间,滋养着每一层梯田,使其生机盎然。

In Hakka and Fujian villages, it’s very common to see foods being sun-dried for preservation. These colorful trays containing food are set out in courtyards and rooftop around tulou walls. Most of these foods are corn kernels which are golden yellow, often filling the whole tray, soybeans dried for making tofu, sweet potatoes which are sliced into thin pieces to make dried snacks, and scented tea leaves.

在客家与福建的村落中,晒干食物以备保存是一种常见的习俗。五彩斑斓的托盘中盛满了各类食材,整齐地摆放在土楼的庭院和屋顶上。托盘里常见的有金黄饱满的玉米粒;用于制豆腐的大豆;切成薄片晾晒的红薯干;以及清香的茶叶。

In late winter, when the air is crisp and less humid, families hang long strings of sausages across bamboo poles, or on wooden racks in open courtyards. The sight of these dark red sausages glistening in the sunlight is a hallmark of traditional Hakka villages. The sausage is made by fresh pork. The meat is mixed with salt, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, and sometimes five-spice powder or peppercorns. The seasoned meat is stuffed into natural casings, then tied into uniform lengths. The sausages are hung outdoors to dry naturally for 1–2 weeks. Deeply savory with a balance of saltiness and gentle sweetness from rice wine and sugar.

冬末,空气清爽,湿气渐消,家家户户都会把长长的香肠串挂在竹竿上,或放在露天庭院的木架上。这些深红色的香肠在阳光下闪闪发光,是传统客家村落的一大特色。香肠采用新鲜猪肉制成,肉中混合盐、米酒、酱油、糖,有时还会加入五香粉或花椒。将调味好的肉馅塞入天然肠衣,然后捆成均匀的长度。香肠会被悬挂在户外自然风干1-2周。咸香浓郁,米酒和糖带来的柔和甜味恰到好处。

The central square tulou called Buyunlou is the oldest structure of the cluster, built first by the ancestor of the family. Later generations expanded around it with round tulou. The square form is structurally simpler and sturdier to build, especially in earlier times when techniques were less advanced. Once wealth and skills grew, round tulou became more common. The square tulou in the middle acted like a fortified core, with the outer round tulou forming an additional layer of protection. Together, the cluster functioned almost like a miniature walled city.

位于中心的方形土楼被称为步云楼,是整个土楼群中最古老的建筑,最初由家族祖先建造。后世在其周围扩建,建造了圆形土楼。方形土楼结构更简单,也更坚固,尤其是在技术欠发达的早期。随着财富和技艺的提升,圆形土楼变得更加普遍。中间的方形土楼如同坚固的核心,外围的圆形土楼则构成了额外的保护层。整个土楼群就像一座微型城墙环绕的城市。

In the afternoon, I took bus and continued the travel in the Taxia Village which is part of the Tianluokeng Scenic Area. It’s a well‑preserved example of Hakka culture and architecture. I enjoyed the scene of a “water town” combined with tulou architecture. When I walked among rural terrain, small bridges, cobblestones, I could see local everyday life.

下午,我乘车前往田螺坑风景区的塔下村。这里保存着完整的客家文化建筑。我欣赏着“水乡”与土楼建筑的融合。漫步在乡村的田园风光、小桥流水、鹅卵石铺就的路面上,感受着当地人的日常生活。

The houses are constructed from blue-gray bricks, which age into a weathered, darker tone over time. Roofs are made with traditional gray clay tiles, sometimes glazed in deeper tones for water resistance. They are rectangular and one to two stories tall. Most of them are built closely along the stone-paved lanes or beside the winding stream. From a distance, I felt that the rooftops formed a soft ripple across the valley, framed by green mountains.

这些房屋由蓝灰色的砖块砌成,岁月在砖面上留下斑驳的痕迹,使其愈发沉稳沧桑。屋顶覆以传统的灰色陶瓦,有时为了防水,还会施上一层深色釉面。房屋多为一至两层的长方形建筑,紧邻石板路或蜿蜒的小溪而立。远远望去,屋顶在山谷间宛如柔和的涟漪,群山翠绿环绕,景色静谧而悠远。

I visited one house compound belonging to Zhang Family. It has stone steps at door, small walled courtyards, and wooden window frames. It was built along the central stream, with bridges connecting them. Its layout includes gate, front hall, main sacrificial hall, with left-side and right-side chambers.

我参观了张家的一处古院。入口处铺着石阶,院内环绕着围墙,木框窗棂透着古朴气息。院落沿着中央的小溪而建,溪上有桥相连。整体布局井然,有大门、前殿和主祭殿,左右两侧则是对称的厢房。

This is used as the clan shrine of the Zhang family, used for ancestor worship, clan ceremonies, rituals, and as a symbol of the Zhang clan’s history and status in the village. Built in the late Ming dynasty, over 400 years old. The gate is decorated with vivid motifs, notably “two dragons playing with a pearl”, inlaid with colored ceramic chips. Roof ridges, eaves, and parapets are ornate, with porcelain reliefs or ceramic decorations depicting legends.

这是张氏家族的宗祠,用于祭祀祖先、举行宗族仪式,同时象征着张氏家族在村落中的历史与地位。建于明末,已有四百余年历史。门楼装饰精美,尤其以“二龙戏珠”的图案最为生动,并镶嵌着色彩斑斓的陶片。屋脊、屋檐及女儿墙装饰华丽,点缀着描绘传说故事的瓷浮雕与陶瓷装饰,尽显古朴与雅致。

One of the most striking features in front of the hall are the stone flagpoles rising from the stone slab near the pond. There are many of them and they are over 10 meters high. They are richly carved and serve as memorials to clan members who achieved official or civil/military ranks or otherwise made contributions. The latest family member carved on the pole is one student went overseas, studying in MIT.

堂前最引人注目的景观之一是从池塘边石板上拔地而起的石旗杆。这些石旗杆数量众多,高达十多米。旗杆上雕刻着精美的图案,用于纪念家族中功成名就、文武双全或做出贡献的成员。旗杆上雕刻的最新一位家庭成员是一位留学生,目前就读于麻省理工学院。

During my trip, I found that the Hakka people have a culture deeply shaped by migration, resilience, and unity. Though historically considered “guests” , they forged strong, close-knit communities wherever they settled. At the heart of Hakka culture lies a powerful sense of clan. This isn’t just about bloodline but it’s a living, breathing system of values, rituals, and responsibilities. In every generation, Hakka people honor their ancestors through ancestral halls. Family histories are remembered. Even those who’ve migrated abroad trace their roots back to the clan village.

在我的旅程中,我感受到客家文化深受迁徙历程、坚韧精神与团结力量的熏陶。尽管历史上他们被称为“客家人”,但在落脚之地,却建立了紧密而坚固的社群。客家文化的核心,是深厚的家族意识。这不仅关乎血缘,更是一套鲜活的价值观、仪式与责任体系。每一代客家人都通过祠堂祭祀祖先,铭记家族历史。即便是远赴海外的后裔,也会追溯宗族村落的根源,以此延续那份血脉与文化的联结。

As night fell over Yunshui Yao, the village transformed into a quiet world. Lanterns glowed softly along cobbled paths, and the sound of flowing water echoed through the ancient alleys. The tulous stood silently in the moonlight, their thick earthen walls holding centuries of Hakka stories. In that stillness, I felt the heart of Hakka culture. It was a life rooted in simplicity and connection, so different from the pace I’m used to. This cultural journey of slower rhythm was more about experiencing a way of life that’s rare for me.

夜幕降临云水谣,村落顿时变得静谧无声。鹅卵石小路上,灯笼柔和地闪烁,潺潺流水声在古老的巷道中回荡。一座座土楼静静地矗立在月光下,厚厚的土墙承载着百年的客家故事。在这份静谧中,我感受到了客家文化的精髓。这是一种根植于淳朴与亲情的生活,与我习以为常的生活节奏截然不同。这段慢节奏的文化之旅,更多的是体验一种对我来说弥足珍贵并且全新的生活方式。

An Immersive Journey Through Kulangsu’s Scenic Beauty

鼓浪屿的沉浸式旅行

Rising gently from the waves of Xiamen’s coast, Kulangsu is an island where sea breezes carry the echoes of pianos and the scent of frangipani drifts through winding stone lanes. It is a place where cultures once met across the ocean, leaving behind villas with red-tiled roofs, colonial consulates, and quiet courtyards shaded by banyan trees. It is celebrated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its rare tapestry of architecture and culture. From the European-inspired mansions of returning overseas Chinese to the fusion styles born of East and West, every building tells a story of global exchange in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

鼓浪屿依偎在厦门海岸的碧波之间,海风轻拂,钢琴声在空气中悠扬回荡,缅栀花的清香随蜿蜒的石巷飘散。这里曾是多元文化的交汇之地,留下了红瓦洋楼、殖民时期的领事馆,以及榕树掩映下的静谧庭院。凭借其独特的建筑群与深厚的文化底蕴,鼓浪屿被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。从归侨的欧式宅邸到中西合璧的风格,每一座建筑都在低声讲述着19世纪至20世纪初这座岛屿与全世界交流的历史。

Kulangsu island is always a romantic place for travelers to explore. On December 27th 2024, the morning ferry skimmed across the waters of Xiamen, carrying me toward Nei Cuoao Ferry Point, the gateway to Kulangsu. As the city skyline softened behind me, the island slowly revealed its red rooftops and leafy hills, bathed in the gentle light of dawn. The sea breeze grew cooler, carrying with it a sense of anticipation—of slower rhythms, hidden gardens, and the music-filled streets waiting just beyond the pier.

鼓浪屿自古便是旅行者心中的浪漫归处。2024年12月27日清晨,渡轮划过厦门的海面,载着我驶向这座岛屿的门户内厝澳渡轮码头。身后的城市天际线渐渐退去成一抹柔影,前方的岛屿却缓缓浮现:红瓦屋顶点缀在葱郁的山丘间,尽情沐浴在温柔的晨曦里。清凉的海风拂面,吹来一缕期许——那是对码头彼岸缓慢的生活节奏、隐秘的花园,以及充盈着音乐的街巷的些须期待。

After I arrived at the island in the morning, the first glimpse of it was the beach. Beach on Kulangsu is not the selling point of this island but it is still beautiful enough. It stretched like a pale ribbon along the edge of the island, its sand soft and fine beneath bare feet. The waves lap gently, leaving fleeting patterns of foam that glisten under the sun, while children’s laughter drifts across the breeze. Here the horizon was wide, the sea was calm, and the soft sand was a quiet comfort for travelers who came to rest by the water’s edge.

清晨抵达鼓浪屿,最先映入眼帘的便是一片沙滩。它或许不是这座岛屿最耀眼的名片,却自有一份恬静之美。沙滩宛若一条浅色的缎带,环绕在岛屿的边缘,细腻柔软的沙粒在脚下温润舒适。海浪轻轻拍打岸边,散落的泡沫在阳光中闪烁着微光,伴随着孩子们随风传来的笑声,勾勒出一幅温柔的画面。这里视野辽阔,海面宁静,柔软的沙滩为徜徉水边的旅人带来片刻安宁与慰藉。

Automobile is not allowed on this island, so the only option is to walk along the sea slowly. This long curling bridge built on the sea seems to dance with the sea breeze, their arches tracing elegant curves above the tides. From the railing, I watched the waves rushing in from the horizon and breaking against the rugged cliffs below. Each crash of white foam is a rhythm, echoing like nature’s drumbeat against the stone, while the bridges carry me forward as if floating between sky and sea. It is a place where footsteps slow, and the vast power of the ocean meets the quiet beauty of human design.

岛上禁止汽车通行,唯一的方式便是沿着海岸缓缓漫步。那条横跨海面的蜿蜒长桥,似乎随着海风轻舞,桥拱在潮汐之上勾勒出优雅的弧线。我伫立于栏杆旁,望着海浪自天际奔涌而来,拍击下方崎岖的悬崖。每一次白色浪花的炸裂,都是大自然的鼓点,敲击在岩石之上,而桥梁则承载着我的脚步,仿佛将我引向漂浮于海天之间的境界。在这里,步伐放缓,浩瀚的海洋与人类匠心的静美交织成一曲和谐的乐章。

Towering trees at the seaside rose like silent guardians of the island, their trunks weathered yet steadfast, their crowns heavy with shimmering green. Sunlight filtered through the leaves in shifting patterns, dappling the stone paths and courtyards below. When the sea breeze drifted inland, the branches swayed gently, whispering as if carrying stories of travelers long past. Looking up from below, the Sunlight Rock seems impossibly high, like a natural monument etched with shadows and light.

海边的参天大树静静矗立,如同守护岛屿的巨人。它的树干历经风霜,依旧坚韧挺拔;繁茂的树冠生机盎然,散发出深沉而浓烈的绿意。阳光穿透叶隙,在石板路与庭院间洒下斑驳的光影。海风轻拂,枝叶摇曳,仿佛在低声诉说远古旅人的故事。抬头仰望,日光岩巍然耸立,宛若一座由光与影雕琢而成的天然纪念碑。

My travel route is from the Nei Cuoao Wharf in the west to the Sunlight Rock in the south, then to the Haoyue Park in the east, finally to the residence area in the central part. Sunlight Rock, the highest point on Kulangsu Island offers travelers both a natural wonder and a historic landmark. Its rugged cliffs are composed of granite, weathered over centuries into jagged yet graceful forms. From below, it appears almost vertical and looks very impressive.

我的行程自西面的内厝澳码头启程,向南攀至日光岩,再东行至皓月园,最终抵达岛屿中央的居民区。日光岩是鼓浪屿的至高点,不仅是自然的杰作,更是历史的丰碑。它由花岗岩嶙峋堆叠而成,历经数百年风化,雕琢出峥嵘而秀美的姿态。从山脚仰望,其岩壁几近垂直,气势巍峨。

Near the summit of Sunlight Rock, the Sunlight Temple is a serene retreat that seems to float between sky and sea. Its crimson walls and green-tiled roofs stand in gentle contrast to the rugged granite cliffs, while the incense smoke drifting from its altars adds a fragrant softness to the salty sea breeze. It is one of Kulangsu’s oldest religious sites, with roots tracing back to the Ming and Qing dynasties.

日光寺位于日光岩顶峰附近,静谧幽远,仿佛悬浮于海天之间。深红的寺墙与碧绿的琉璃瓦,与嶙峋的花岗岩峭壁相映成趣;自祭坛缭绕而出的袅袅香烟,与咸润的海风交织,添上一缕清芬。作为鼓浪屿最古老的宗教圣地之一,它的渊源可追溯至明清时期。

Inside the courtyard, carefully carved wooden beams and delicate statues reflect traditional Chinese temple artistry. Potted plants and small trees are carefully arranged along the stone pathways. Fragrant flowers peek from ceramic pots, and miniature bonsai trees twist gracefully and elegantly in the gentle breeze in this tranquil courtyard.

庭院之中,木梁雕饰精美,神像玲珑雅致,尽显中国传统寺庙的艺术气韵。石径两侧,盆栽与小树错落有致,仿佛静候来客。陶罐里,馥郁的花朵探首而出,微型盆景随风轻摇,流露出一份静谧与雅趣。

The path to the summit winds through lush vegetation, shaded by tall palm trees and clusters of banyans, with small resting spots offering glimpses of the surrounding sea. The red roof-tops are one of the most distinctive features of Kulangsu’s landscape. In the late 19th centuries, many Chinese merchants and families who had lived in Southeast Asia or Europe returned to Kulangsu. They brought with them Western architectural styles, where red-tiled roofs were common. Red clay tiles were durable and well-suited to the island’s humid, coastal climate. They shed rain efficiently and resisted the salty sea breeze better than thatched or flat roofs.

通往山顶的小径蜿蜒穿过葱郁的植被,高耸的棕榈与成片的榕树交织掩映,沿途设有小憩之处,可远眺一望无际的海景。鼓浪屿最具代表性的风貌之一,便是点缀在绿意之间的红色屋顶。自19世纪末起,许多曾旅居东南亚或欧洲的华商与家族陆续归来,他们将西方建筑风格融入岛上的传统环境,使红瓦屋顶随处可见。由红粘土烧制的瓦片坚固耐久,极为适合潮湿的海岛气候,不仅能有效遮挡雨水,更能比茅草或平屋更好地抵御扑面的咸湿海风。

The rock is a commanding position, allowing visitors to gaze across the island and the surrounding sea. At the top, the sea breeze is strong and refreshing, and the panoramic view is really breathtaking. I could see clearly the undulating coastline of Xiamen, the sparkling waters surrounding Kulangsu, and the red-roofed villas dotted across the island all unfold beneath my feet. The sea of red rooftops is like a mosaic of history: a blend of Chinese tradition, overseas influence, and the island’s role as a hub of cultural exchange.

日光岩居高临下,俯瞰整座岛屿与四周蔚蓝的大海。登上山顶,海风清冽劲爽,眼前的全景令人屏息:厦门起伏的海岸线尽收眼底,鼓浪屿周围的海面波光粼粼,岛上星罗棋布的红顶别墅一一展现。这片红顶别墅群宛如一幅历史的马赛克画卷,将中国传统建筑、海外风格与岛屿作为文化交流枢纽的独特身份巧妙融合。

After going down from the top of Sunlight Rock, next I visited the Shuzhuang Garden which is one of the island’s most beautiful places. Here classical Chinese landscape design meets the island’s coastal beauty. It was built in 1913 by Lin Erjia, a wealthy overseas Chinese merchant, as a private seaside villa in memory of his father. This is the statue of the owner Lin Erjia.

从日光岩顶下来后,我接下来参观了菽庄花园,它是岛上最美的地方之一。这里融合了中国古典园林设计与岛上的海滨美景。它是由富豪华侨林尔嘉于1913年建造的一座私人海滨别墅,以纪念他的父亲。这张照片是别墅主人林尔嘉的雕像。

The garden is famed for its clever use of space, following the traditional Chinese principle of “借景” (borrowing scenery). Pavilions, winding corridors, and moon gates frame the shifting views of the sea, distant islands, and the garden’s own bridges and rockeries. Every turn seems to reveal a new scene—quiet ponds reflecting the sky, bamboo groves whispering in the wind, or stone steps leading down to the shore where waves gently lap against the rocks. It seamed that I was placed in a flowing Chinese landscape painting.

这座园林以巧妙的空间布局著称,完美体现了中国传统的“借景”理念。亭台楼阁、蜿蜒曲折的回廊与幽雅的月门,将海景、远方岛屿以及园内的小桥流水、假山巧妙串联。每一次转角,仿佛都会呈现新的画面——静谧的池塘映照着天空,竹林在微风中轻轻低语;沿着石阶走向岸边,海浪温柔地拍打着岩石,恍若置身一幅流动的山水画卷。

In this limited area, it includes many artificial hills, winding paths, and groves of bamboo and pine which reproduce the feeling of mountain landscapes within a compact space. Small waterfalls, rockeries, and ponds complete the miniature world of hills and streams, inviting visitors to wander as if in nature itself.

在这有限的空间里,错落有致的假山、蜿蜒曲折的小径、竹林松林,在紧凑的空间中重现了山峦叠嶂的景象。小瀑布、假山、池塘,构成了山水的微缩世界,让游客仿佛置身于大自然之中。

From within Shuzhuang Garden, slender stone bridges curve outward like graceful arms reaching toward the sea. Their paths are never straight; instead, they twist and turn in gentle zigzags, following the classical garden tradition of slowing one’s pace and revealing scenery step by step. Low railings frame the edges, allowing the sound of waves and the salty breeze to flow freely across the walkway like spirits.

从菽庄花园内眺望,纤细的石桥如同伸向大海的优雅手臂,缓缓蜿蜒而出。桥面并非笔直,而是曲折回环,恰似古典园林中“步步缓行,景致渐现”的意趣。低矮的栏杆轻轻环绕,任海浪的吟唱与咸风的拂面自由流淌在桥上,增添几分闲适与灵动。

As I crossed the bridge, the view shifted constantly. One moment was framed by a round moon gate, the next opening wide to the endless horizon. The bridges seemed to hover between two worlds: behind me, the calm rockeries, bamboo groves, and pavilions of the garden; ahead, the vast, untamed sea which tide was high, and waves surged and crashed beneath the arches.

走过桥,眼前的景色不断变幻:忽而是一道圆形月门,忽而又豁然开朗,直通无垠的地平线。栈桥仿佛悬浮在两个世界之间。身后是花园中静谧的假山、竹林与亭台楼阁;前方是浩瀚的大海,潮水涌动,波涛翻滚,在桥下奔腾不息。

Walking through Shuzhuang Garden, I felt as if I had stepped into a living painting that slowly revealed itself with every turn. The zigzagging bridges drew me closer to the sea, and when the horizon suddenly appeared through a moon gate, it felt like a surprise being revealed. Standing on a bridge where the garden meets the ocean with Sunlight Rock at the backdrop, I felt that all noise and worry seemed to dissolve into the rhythm of the sea, leaving only a quiet joy.

漫步于菽庄花园,仿佛步入一幅鲜活的画卷,随着每个转角的延展,画卷徐徐展开。蜿蜒的桥将我引向大海,当地平线透过月门突然显现,如同一份悄然揭开的惊喜。站在花园与海水交汇的桥上,以日光岩为背景,所有喧嚣与烦恼仿佛随波逐流,只留下静谧而纯粹的喜悦。

The Piano Museum near the Shuzhuang Garden is the first of its kind in China. Opened in 2000, the museum reflects the island’s reputation as the “Island of Music” and its deep-rooted love for piano culture. The museum is housed in elegant garden pavilions surrounded by flowers and plants.

菽庄花园附近的钢琴博物馆是中国首家钢琴博物馆。该博物馆于2000年开馆,体现了这座岛屿 “音乐之岛”的美誉以及当地民众对钢琴文化的深厚热爱。博物馆坐落在雅致的花园亭阁之中,周围环绕着鲜花绿植。

The hall displays more than a hundred pianos from around the world. Many of them are rare and antique instruments, some dating back centuries. Walking through the museum, I saw some famous pianos from the 18th century like Blüthner and Steinway & Sons. They are decorated with delicate carvings, and grand pianos once played in concert halls and noble salons. Each piece tells a story of craftsmanship, artistry, and the journey of music.

大厅里展出了来自世界各地的一百多架钢琴。其中许多都是稀有的古董乐器,有些甚至可以追溯到几个世纪以前。漫步博物馆,我看到了例如步吕特纳和施坦威等一些18世纪的著名钢琴。它们装饰着精美的雕刻,还有一些曾经在音乐厅和贵族沙龙中演奏的三角钢琴。每一架钢琴都向我讲述着各自的工艺、艺术和音乐之旅的故事。

In the afternoon, I walked along the seaside of Kulangsu which felt alive with energy. The sea sparkled under the sun, waves rolling gently toward the stone promenade. At the far end, Xiamen’s skyline gleamed in the distance. Walking further along the curve of the shore, the huge statue of Zheng Chenggong came into view, standing tall on the rocks above the sea. His gaze was fixed firmly toward the horizon. Beneath him, the waves crashed against the cliffs, as if echoing his determination.

午后,我漫步在鼓浪屿的海滨,感受着这里洋溢的生机与活力。阳光洒在海面上,波光粼粼,海浪轻柔地拍打着石板路。远处,厦门的天际线闪烁着迷人的光芒。沿着海岸线缓缓前行,郑成功的巨大雕像映入眼帘,矗立于海面之上的岩石之上。他的目光坚定而深邃,凝视着遥远的地平线。海浪拍打着岩石,在他身下激起阵阵回响,仿佛回应着这位民族英雄不屈的意志。

When I looked up at the statue, I imagined that he set sail from these shores in 1661, driving out the Dutch and reclaiming Taiwan, turning Xiamen into a stronghold of resistance and hope. I began to reminisce the history at the end of Ming Dynasty. Although fighting against Qing Dynasty all through his life, Zheng Chenggong gained high recognition from his enemy due to extraordinary loyalty and courage and after his death, the Kangxi Emperor of Qing praised him with the famous couplet:

“四镇多异心,两岛屯师,敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土,一隅抗志,方知海外有孤忠。”

The emperor’s words recognize Zheng as a singular figure of steadfast loyalty and daring, acting alone in defense of the Ming cause while much of the empire wavered. Zheng’s courage and strategic vision marked him as a “solitary loyalist” whose deeds would endure in history. Standing today on Kulangsu, gazing at his towering statue facing the sea, I felt the weight of his loyalty and the determination.

当我仰望这座雕像,脑海中浮现他于1661年从这片海岸起航的场景——驱逐荷兰人、收复台湾、将厦门化作抵抗与希望的据点。思绪随之回溯至明末岁月。郑成功一生与清廷为敌,却凭卓越的忠诚与勇气赢得敌方尊重。其逝世后,清康熙皇帝仍题下名联以示赞誉:“四镇多异心,两岛屯师,敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土,一隅抗志,方知海外有孤忠。”

康熙皇帝的挽联承认郑成功的忠义无畏、勇敢坚强。在明朝风雨飘摇、举国动荡之际,他独自肩负捍卫江山的重任。凭借非凡的勇气与卓越的战略眼光,郑成功被尊为“孤胆忠臣”,其丰功伟绩必将载入史册。今日,伫立于鼓浪屿,凝视他那面向大海、巍然矗立的雕像,我深切感受到了这位南明义士忠诚为国的分量与坚定抗清的决心。

From the shores of Kulangsu, the view across the water feels like looking into another world. Beyond the gentle rhythm of waves and the red-tiled roofs of the island, Xiamen rises in shimmering glass and steel. Sleek high-rises and soaring towers stretch toward the sky. The contrast is striking. On one side, it’s Kulangsu’s quiet gardens, winding lanes, and echoes of history; on the other, it’s the bold skyline of a modern metropolis. It made me feel as though past and present are meeting in a single frame.

从鼓浪屿的岸边眺望,对岸的景色仿佛属于另一个世界。轻柔的海浪拍打着岸边,岛上红瓦屋顶在阳光下温暖映衬,而厦门的玻璃与钢铁建筑在光影中拔地而起,现代高楼直冲云霄,光鲜亮丽。两者形成鲜明对比:一边是鼓浪屿静谧的花园、曲折的小巷和历史的回响;另一边是现代都市的雄伟天际线。此刻,我仿佛看到过去与现在在同一画面中交汇。

From the late 19th to early 20th century, luxurious villas and mansions in style like Mediterranean, Baroque, Rococo, and Art Deco were built on this island. Missionaries from Europe built churches, schools, and hospitals, adding Gothic spires, stained glass windows, and European-style chapels to the landscape. Meanwhile, traditional Chinese temples and gardens continued to flourish, preserving local spiritual and aesthetic traditions. Nowadays, Kulangsu retained most of its historic buildings. I wandered through the small lanes and wondered at the mixed cultures here.

19世纪末至20世纪初,岛上陆续兴建起兼具地中海、巴洛克、洛可可及装饰艺术风格的豪华别墅与庄园。来自欧洲的传教士则建造了教堂、学校与医院,为岛屿增添了哥特式尖顶、彩色玻璃窗以及精致的小教堂风貌。与此同时,中国传统的寺庙与园林依旧生机勃勃,承载着当地独特的精神与审美传统。如今,鼓浪屿大部分历史建筑依然完好保存。我漫步于曲径幽巷之间,仿佛置身于一座多元文化交融的时光画卷之中

‘Amoy Deco’ is the name given to a unique style that blossomed on this island during the early 20th century. It evolved as returning overseas Chinese merchants and students brought back Western influences, fusing them with Fujianese tradition. The name Amoy comes from the local Hokkien dialect pronunciation of Xiamen. Inspired by the global Art Deco movement, these buildings often feature streamlined facades, angular designs, and decorative motifs such as hexagonal patterns roof, symmetry, and zigzags. Unlike pure Western Art Deco, Amoy Deco integrates local craftsmanship, brick masonry techniques, and Chinese symbolic decorations. Wide verandas, open balconies, and shaded courtyards designed for ventilation in the humid subtropical climate.

“Amoy Deco”指的是20世纪初在这座岛屿上兴起的一种独特建筑风格。这一风格由归国的海外华商与留学生将西方艺术元素带回中国,并与福建本土传统相融合而发展而成。“Amoy”源自当地闽南语对“厦门”的发音。受全球Art Deco运动影响,这类建筑常呈流线型外墙、棱角分明,并装饰有六边形屋顶、对称布局以及锯齿形等图案。不同于纯粹的西方装饰艺术,Amoy Deco巧妙融合了本地工艺、砖砌技术及中国传统装饰元素。宽敞的走廊、开放式阳台与幽静庭院的设计,有效适应了潮湿亚热带气候下的通风需求。

Trinity Church

Constructed in 1934, the Trinity Church was built jointly by three Christian congregations to cater to the growing number of worshipers on the island. The church showcases architectural influences rooted in Western ecclesiastical design like brick walls accented by cross motifs, arched windows and a steeply pitched white roof. Its first Sunday service in the renewed sanctuary was held in 2019, marking its restored role as a house of worship for the island’s community.

这座三一教堂建于1934年,由三家基督教会联合兴建,旨在满足岛上日益增长的信徒需求。教堂的设计汲取了西方教会建筑的风格特色,砖墙上点缀着十字图案,拱形窗户高耸典雅,陡峭的白色屋顶更显庄重。2019年,翻新后的圣殿迎来了首场主日礼拜,宣告教堂重新成为岛上社区的精神图腾与礼拜中心。

Former British Consulate

The Former British Consulate is a distinguished example of colonial architecture that reflects the island’s rich international heritage. The building is constructed from ancient Minnan red bricks and granite. The structure showcases a veranda style, which was prevalent in port cities during the 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1843, Xiamen opened to foreign trade, and the British government established a consular office on Kulangsu. Today, it has been repurposed and serves as the Kulangsu Historical and Cultural Exhibition Hall. This transformation allows visitors to explore the island’s rich history and the architectural heritage of its colonial past.

前英国领事馆是殖民时期建筑的杰出典范,体现了鼓浪屿丰富的国际文化遗产。建筑以传统闽南红砖和花岗岩砌成,呈现19世纪至20世纪初港口城市盛行的廊架式风格。自1843年厦门开港通商以来,英国政府便在鼓浪屿设立了领事馆。如今,这座建筑经过改造,成为鼓浪屿历史文化展览馆,让游客得以深入探索岛上的历史风貌与殖民时期的建筑遗产。

Former Japanese Consulate

The Former Japanese Consulate stands as a testament to Kulangsu’s rich history as an international settlement. Constructed in 1879, it remains the only 19th-century embassy building still intact on the island. The building is primarily constructed using ancient Minnan red bricks and granite as well like most buildings in this island. The structure exhibits Victorian-style elements with a veranda-style layout, common in cities with open ports, and incorporates wood trusses, I-beams, and concrete slabs in its interior.

前日本领事馆见证了鼓浪屿作为国际殖民地的悠久历史。建于1879年,它是岛上唯一保存完好的19世纪使馆建筑。如同岛上其他建筑一样,整座建筑以古老的闽南红砖与花岗岩砌成,结构中融入了维多利亚风格的元素,采用港口城市常见的廊式布局;内部则巧妙结合了木桁架、工字梁与混凝土板,展现出独特的历史风貌。

This building does not allow visiting inside so I could only take some photos surrounding it. Its façade, adorned with arched windows and a distinctive red-brick exterior, stands in contrast to the surrounding European-style buildings. Its well-preserved structure offers me a glimpse into the architectural diversity that characterizes the island.

由于这栋建筑不对内部开放,我只能在周围拍几张照片。正面装饰着拱形窗户,外墙由独特的红砖砌成,在周围的欧式建筑群中格外醒目。它保存完好的结构,让我得以一瞥岛上建筑风格的丰富多样。

Huang Rongyuan Villa

In my opinion, the Huang Rongyuan Villa must be the most elegant and beautiful mansion in this island. The villa built in 1920 reflects a fusion of European classical style and Chinese aesthetics. Its massive granite columns and formal symmetry evoke Roman grandeur. Four giant Tuscan-style granite columns support a semi-circular portico. Rich ornamental details in column capitals, eaves, windows, balconies, and a rooftop adorned with grapevine motifs and balustrades really attract my eyes.

在我眼中,黄荣远别墅无疑是这座岛上最优雅、最迷人的宅邸。建于1920年的它,将欧洲古典风格与中国美学完美融合。巨大的花岗岩柱与对称布局,让人联想到古罗马的宏伟气势。四根雄伟的托斯卡纳风格花岗岩柱支撑着半圆形门廊,而柱头、屋檐、窗户、阳台以及装饰着葡萄藤图案与精美栏杆的屋顶,其繁复细致的装饰着实吸引了我的眼球。

The villa stands within a lush courtyard, over 3,000 m² in size. In the courtyard, the garden is an exquisite fusion of Chinese and Western elements. One highlight is the use of traditional Chinese garden elements like Taihu rocks, winding paths, a pavilion, and a cloud-style rock wall. In contrast, the geometry and symmetry reflect Western villa gardens especially decorated with curved porch and grand Ionic columns. Now, it is home to the China Record Museum, preserving both architecture and musical heritage.

别墅坐落于郁郁葱葱的庭院之中,占地逾3000平方米。庭院花园巧妙地融汇中西风格:一方面,太湖石、蜿蜒小径、雅致凉亭与云纹岩墙彰显中国传统园林的韵味;另一方面,别墅本身的几何造型与对称布局,配以弧形门廊和宏伟的爱奥尼式柱子,又散发出典型西方别墅花园的气度。如今,别墅内还设有中国唱片博物馆,珍藏着丰富的建筑与音乐遗产。

Fanpo Mansion

This Fanpo Mansion is celebrated for its rare blend of Chinese craftsmanship and European Rococo style. The gatehouse is particularly notable. It’s the tallest and largest on the island. Rococo influences surface in flourishes of curving lines and decorative sculptures. The gatehouse is crowned with a sculpture of two golden birds holding copper coins, symbolizing wealth and good fortune. The mansion was built in 1927 by a prosperous Chinese-Filipino entrepreneur, in honor of his mother, known as ‘Fan Po’. The exterior is composed of richly hued red bricks contrasted with white trims. The ground floor features a two-story red-brick cloister with graceful arches forming a shaded walkway. A set of elegant stairs ascends to the main entrance.

番婆楼以其罕见的中西工艺融合而闻名,将中国传统元素与欧洲洛可可风格巧妙结合。其门楼尤为引人瞩目,是岛上最高、最宏伟的门楼。洛可可风格的影响在门楼的曲线线条与精美雕塑中展露无遗。门楼顶部雕刻着两只衔铜钱的金鸟,象征财富与吉祥。这座府邸建于1927年,由一位富有的菲律宾华裔企业家建造,以纪念他被尊称为 “番婆”的母亲。外墙以色彩丰富的红砖砌成,辅以白色装饰,形成鲜明对比。一楼设有两层红砖回廊,优美的拱门连成绿荫步道。沿着典雅的楼梯拾级而上,即可通达正门。

There are still some local residents in this island. I could even go to the second floor of the new residential house taking some photos. Life on Kulangsu may unfold under the gaze of countless tourists, but for its local residents, the rhythm is gentler, rooted in routines that have little to do with sightseeing. At dusk, when most tourists have left, the island grows peaceful. Residents stroll along the seaside promenade, and children chase each other under the glow of streetlamps.

岛上仍住着一些本地居民。我甚至可以上到新建居民楼的二楼,拍下几张静谧的生活瞬间。鼓浪屿的日常,在游客的目光下缓缓展开,而对居民而言,却是另一种从容,根植于与观光无关的平凡生活。黄昏时分,当游客渐渐散去,岛上恢复了宁静。居民沿着海滨长廊缓步而行,孩子们在路灯下追逐嬉戏,脚步声与海风一同流淌在暮色中。

Chuncao Tang

Travel in this small island is tiring since I needed to continue walking up and down without rest. Chuncao Tang is situated on the cliff of Pen Holder Hill, offering expansive views of the surrounding landscape. Built in 1933, Chuncao Tang was designed by Xu Chuncao, the president of the Xiamen Construction Association. The villa resembles a Western-style nursing house. Its structure utilizes granite for the wall base, wall pillars, and corridor column. The villa includes a wide corridor outside the living room, providing a space for viewing and cooling off, enhancing the living experience with panoramic views of the surrounding area.

这座小岛上旅行格外疲惫,因为我需要不断地上下攀爬,中途也不得不停下来休息。春草堂座落于笔架山的悬崖之上,视野开阔,能够尽览周围景致。建于1933年的春草堂,由厦门市建筑协会会长许春草设计,别墅仿照西式养老院建造,墙基、墙柱与廊柱皆采用花岗岩。别墅客厅外设有宽敞的走廊,既可观景,又可乘凉,将周围的风光尽收眼底,极大提升了居住的舒适体验。

HSBC Bank Mansion

One of the most amazing buildings on this island must be the HSBC Bank Mansion. It is a three-leaf clover shaped English style villa, completed in 1876, and distinguished by its placement atop the cliff of Pen Holder Hill. I looked up at the high and straight cliff. This building sits solidly on a granite foundation anchored into the cliff’s rock. The mansion’s cliff-top location was purposefully chosen to offer sweeping sea views during both day and night. A colonnaded cloister runs alongside, opening to sea breezes and panoramic views of Xiamen’s Twin Towers and the iconic Bagua Mansion.

岛上最令人叹为观止的建筑之一,非汇丰银行公馆莫属。这座建于1876年的英式三叶草形状的别墅,因矗立于笔架山悬崖之上而闻名。我仰望着笔架山高耸的悬崖,只见公馆稳稳地坐落在嵌入岩石的花岗岩基座上。选址于悬崖之巅,是为了让人无论白天还是夜晚,都能尽览壮阔海景。旁侧,带有柱廊的回廊在海风吹拂下轻轻摇曳,厦门双子塔与标志性的八卦楼尽收眼底。

Bagua Mansion

Before the sun set, the Bagua Mansion revealed itself like a beacon among Kulangsu’s green hills and tiled rooftops. Its bright red dome, rounded and regal, rose above the treetops, immediately catching my eyes. Against the soft sky and glittering sea, the dome shone with a warm glow in the winter chill, resting like a crown on the island’s outline. This distinct profile makes the mansion one of the most recognizable landmarks of Kulangsu. Founded in 1907, the Bagua Mansion was commissioned by Taiwanese businessman. Nowadays, the refurbished mansion became the Organ Museum, housing Chinese most notable collections of pipe organs.

日落前,八卦楼宛如一座灯塔,矗立在鼓浪屿青山绿水与瓦片屋顶之间。那鲜红的穹顶圆润而庄重,耸立于树梢之上,瞬间捕获了我的目光。在柔和的天空与波光粼粼的海面映衬下,穹顶在冬日寒意中散发出温暖光芒,如同一顶皇冠,点缀着岛屿的轮廓。独特的造型让八卦楼成为鼓浪屿最易辨识的地标之一。八卦楼始建于1907年,由一位台湾商人委托建造,如今经过翻新,已成为管风琴博物馆,馆内收藏着中国最著名的管风琴藏品。

After eight hours of exploring this island on foot, my legs were utterly exhausted. Sauntering through the winding lanes was like stepping into a living museum, where each street and building tells a story of hybrid cultures and architectural fusion. Though time constraints meant I missed many remarkable structures, the glimpses I caught and these intricate details blending East and West made every step worthwhile. This UNESCO site is not just a place to see but a place to feel, where history and artistry coexist in the most vivid way.

徒步探索这座岛屿八小时后,我的双腿早已疲惫不堪。漫步于蜿蜒的小巷中,仿佛走进一座鲜活的博物馆。每条街道、每栋建筑都娓娓诉说着多元文化与建筑风格交融的故事。虽因时间有限错过了许多令人叹为观止的建筑,但那些短暂的瞥见,以及东西方交汇处的精致细节,让我此次旅行的每一步都充满价值。这座联合国教科文组织世界遗产,不仅值得观赏,更值得用心感受;历史与艺术在这里以最生动的方式交融共存。

Beneath the Blue Horizon: Xiamen’s Sea-Kissed Trip

蓝色地平线下的厦门:一场海与心的旅行

Xiamen was my last stop in the Christmas trip 2024. It a beautiful city where the sea whispers to the shore draped in sunlight and sea breeze. Here, waves kiss the white sands of Huandao Road, and Kulangsu’s winding alleys hum with stories of a bygone era. Palm trees sway over seaside cafés, and each sunset spills gold into the harbor. Between the scent of salt in the air and the melody of the tides, Xiamen invites me to slow my pace, breathe deeply, and let the ocean’s rhythm guide me finish the whole journey.

厦门,是我2024年圣诞旅途的最后一站。这座海滨之城,阳光与海风温柔相拥。环岛路的白沙滩上,浪花如丝绸般抚过足迹;鼓浪屿的蜿蜒小巷间,则回荡着旧时光的低语。海边的咖啡馆里,棕榈树在微风中摇曳,夕阳的余晖染金了整片港湾。空气里弥漫着咸润的气息,潮汐谱写着舒缓的旋律。厦门,仿佛以海洋的脉动,邀请我放慢脚步,深深呼吸,让旅程在宁静与诗意中缓缓落幕。

When I just arrived, I found that Xiamen and Singapore share quite a few similarities, especially from a travel and lifestyle perspective. Both are island-based cities connected to the mainland by bridges. Surrounded by the sea, they have a strong maritime character and a history shaped by trade. Xiamen’s Kulangsu Island and old neighborhoods reflect a fusion of Chinese, Western, and Southeast Asian styles. Singapore also blends Chinese, Malay, Indian, and colonial heritage into its urban fabric.

初到厦门时,我惊喜地发现,这座城市尤其是在旅行体验与生活方式上与新加坡有着许多相似之处。两者皆是海岛城市,通过桥梁与大陆相连,四面环海,浸润着浓厚的海洋气息与因贸易而兴盛的历史。厦门的鼓浪屿与老街区展现出中西文化与东南亚风情的交融,而新加坡的城市肌理则汇聚了华人、马来人、印度人以及殖民时期遗留下来的多元文化遗产。

Xiamen’s story is written by the sea. Once a small fishing settlement, it rose to prominence in the 17th century as a key port for maritime trade along China’s southeastern coast. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, its deep-water harbor made it a gateway for merchants, tea exports, and cultural exchange. In the 19th century, Xiamen became one of China’s earliest treaty ports, opening to foreign trade after the signing of Treaty of Nanjing in the First Opium War. Nowadays, it is very modern city. The beautiful skyline rises beside palm-lined boulevards, and large ships share the horizon with ferries bound for nearby islands. Both mark a new chapter of this garden city on sea.

厦门的故事始于大海。最初,它只是东南沿海的一座小渔村,却在十七世纪间逐渐崛起,成为海上贸易的重要港口。明清时期,深水良港让这里汇聚四方商贾,茶叶自此远销海外,也孕育了多元的文化交流。十九世纪,随着《南京条约》的签订,厦门成为中国最早开放的通商口岸之一,见证了风云变幻的近代史。如今的厦门早已焕然一新:现代化的天际线在棕榈掩映的林荫大道旁傲然耸立,巨轮与渡船同绘海面,共同书写这座海上花园城市的新篇章。

In the 17th century, long before Xiamen became a modern port city, it was the stronghold of Zheng Chenggong, the Ming loyalist who resisted the Manchu conquest. Xiamen’s natural harbor and island setting made it a perfect marine base. From here, Zheng built a powerful naval force, controlling trade and defending the coast. In 1661, it was from Xiamen’s shores that his fleet set sail across the Taiwan Strait, launching the campaign that expelled the Dutch from Taiwan and established Chinese rule there.

早在17世纪,厦门还未成为现代化港口之前,这片海岛便是明朝名将忠臣郑成功的重要据点。他凭借这里的天然良港与险要地势,构筑起坚固的海上要塞,用以抵御清军的进犯。依托厦门的优越条件,郑成功组建起一支强大的海军,不仅掌控海上贸易,还守护着沿海疆土。1661年,他率领庞大的舰队自厦门启航,横渡台湾海峡,发起了驱逐荷兰殖民者的战役,最终在台湾确立了中国的统治。

Today, the central district of this city called ‘Siming’ recall Zheng Chenggong’s presence. He renamed the island’s name to “Siming”. The name, meaning “remembering the Ming Dynasty” reflected his loyalty to the fallen Ming dynasty and his opposition to the Qing conquerors. Standing by the water and staring at the powerful warships faraway, it’s easy for me to imagine the sails of his fleet catching the wind and fighting in the waves.

如今,城市的中心——思明区,依旧承载着人们对郑成功当年的记忆。他曾将这座岛屿易名 ‘思明’,寓意缅怀故国,寄托着对覆灭的明朝的忠贞与对清军入侵的抗争之志。伫立水边,远眺海上战舰的雄姿,仿佛眼前便浮现出他率领舰队劈波斩浪、扬帆远航的壮阔场景。

My trip started from the seaside promenade which stretched like a silver ribbon along the sea, with palm trees swaying gently above the turquoise waves. The salty breeze brushed against my face, carrying the faint scent of the ocean and the sound of gulls overhead. Each step felt lighter, as if the rhythm of the waves was syncing with my heartbeat.

我的旅程自海滨长廊启程。它宛如一缕银色丝带,沿着无际的海面舒展延伸。两侧的棕榈随碧波轻轻摇曳,仿佛在为海浪伴舞。微咸的海风拂面而来,带着淡淡的海洋气息,间或掺杂几声悠远的海鸥鸣叫。海边漫步步履间格外轻盈,似乎浪涛的律动正与我的心跳相互呼应。

The horizon seemed endless, and the air felt so fresh that every breath is a quiet celebration: cool, clean, and alive. Walking here, the bustle of the city slipped away, replaced by the soft music of the tide interwined with the simple joy of being by the sea. With each step along seaside promenade, the weight of the year’s work begins to loosen, like sand slipping through my fingers. Sunlight danced on the water, and I felt as though the tide is quietly washing my mind clean. By the time I reached the curve of the bay, the fatigue of whole year has dissolved into the horizon, leaving only a lightness.

地平线无边无际,空气澄澈清新,每一次呼吸都仿佛是一场静谧的庆典:清凉、纯净,饱含生机。漫步于此,城市的喧嚣渐渐褪去,只余下如潮水般轻柔的乐音,与海畔独有的惬意相互交织。沿着海滨长廊缓步而行,仿佛每一步都卸下了一分尘世的负担,犹如细沙从指间静静滑落。阳光在水面上闪烁起舞,潮汐轻声呢喃,似在为我拂去纷杂思绪。待我走到海湾的转角处,一年的疲惫早已消散在天际,只余心境澄明、轻盈自在。

Although it was December, the temperature on noon could reach 23 Celsius. I walked on the wide, sun-warmed sand of Huangcuo Beach and touched the coldness of sea water with my bare feet. The wave hit me like soft applause, greeting me with their gentle rhythm, as if reminding me to slow down. Out on the horizon, the sky melted into the sea. I let the breeze wrap around me, cool and salt sweet.

虽已至十二月,正午的气温却依然攀升到二十三度。黄厝的沙滩开阔而明亮,我赤脚行走在其上,脚尖触碰到海水时,清凉之意瞬间涌上心头。浪花轻柔拍来,如同一阵阵温婉的掌声,拍打着节奏,仿佛在提醒我放慢脚步。远方的天与海在地平线上交融,浑然无际。微风裹挟着一丝凉意与淡淡的咸甜,将我轻轻拥抱。

Huangcuo Beach is more than just a stretch of golden sand—it’s a stage for quiet romance. At sunset, the sky blushes over the sea, and the soft hiss of the waves becomes a gentle backdrop for whispered promises. Here, couples stroll hand in hand, leaving footprints side by side, some pausing to write Marry me in the sand or to embrace beneath a sky turning gold and rose. The openness of the sea seems to bless each moment, carrying it far beyond the horizon.

黄厝海滩不仅是一片金色的沙岸,更是一方静谧而浪漫的舞台。暮色降临,霞光轻洒在海面上,柔和的浪声宛如低语的伴奏。情侣们携手而行,在细沙上留下并肩的足迹;或在沙滩上写下 “嫁给我”的誓言,或在金与玫瑰色交织的天空下深情相拥。辽阔的大海仿佛化作见证与祝福,将每一个温柔的瞬间托付给无尽的地平线。

The main seaside promenade in Xiamen is along Huandao Road, which circles much of Xiamen Island’s coastline. I walked along the section that was most popular with walkers and cyclists. The section in the south of island, stretching from Xiamen University through Hulishan to Xiang’an Bridge is about 20 km long. The most iconic building on the way must be the Xiamen Twin Towers. Their glass façades curving like giant sails catching the sea breeze. This skyline creates a striking contrast. The calm rhythm of waves in the foreground, and the confident silhouette of a modern city just beyond. Walking here, I felt Xiamen’s unique blend of ‘la isla bonita’ and a metropolis.

厦门最著名的海滨长廊坐落于环岛路,几乎环绕了整个厦门岛的海岸线。我沿着最受步行者和骑行者青睐的路段缓缓前行。环岛路的南段,从厦门大学经胡里山延伸至翔安大桥,全长约二十公里。途中最引人注目的当属厦门双子塔,其玻璃幕墙宛如巨大的船帆在海风中轻轻起伏,勾勒出一条优美的曲线。天际线在双子塔的映衬下更显生动,前方是平静的海浪拍打节奏,远处则是现代化城市的自信轮廓。漫步其间,我深深感受到厦门独有的魅力。这是一座“美丽小岛” 与繁华都市的完美融合。

There are not so many historical buildings in Xiamen. Hulishan Fort is one living reminder of the city’s history. It was on the seaside promenade. Built in 1894 during the Qing Dynasty, the fort was designed to guard against foreign naval threats and overlooks the Taiwan Strait from a commanding seaside cliff. Its thick granite and red-brick walls enclose military tunnels and a watchtower. They are still intact and high although eroded by wind and rains of hundred years.

厦门的历史建筑不算多,但胡里山炮台却是这座城市历史的鲜活见证。它坐落于海滨长廊上,为了防御外国海军的威胁始建于清朝光绪二十年(1894年)。炮台俯瞰台湾海峡,依托一处高耸的海边悬崖而建。厚实的花岗岩与红砖筑成的城墙环绕着军事隧道与瞭望塔,历经风雨仍显雄伟。

The main attraction is the world’s largest surviving 19th-century coastal cannon, a German-made Krupp cannon stretching over 13 meters long. Its dark iron barrel stretches toward the Taiwan Strait, a silent giant that once promised both power and protection. Standing before it, I could feel the tension of history, the urgency of Qing dynasty arming itself against foreign fleets. Krupp was a leading German industrial and steel company in the 19th–20th century, renowned for heavy artillery. Qing Dynasty purchased many cannons from this company in the history.

最引人注目的是世界上现存最大的19世纪海岸炮:一门德国制造的克虏伯巨炮,长达十三米有余,漆黑的铁身宛如沉默的巨人,静静伸向台湾海峡,曾象征着力量与守护。站在它面前,我仿佛能触碰到历史的张力,感受到清朝武装自卫、抵御外国舰队的紧迫感。克虏伯公司是19至20世纪德国领先的钢铁与工业巨擘,以重型火炮闻名于世。历史上,清朝曾从这家公司采购过大量大炮。

Another site marking the history of Xiamen is Zengcuoan. Once a quiet fishing village, it is now Xiamen’s lively “sea-side snack town,” where every narrow lane is scented with something tempting. Under strings of warm lights, stalls sizzle with local flavors. Vendors call out cheerfully, offering skewers of grilled squid, cups of mango shaved ice, and steaming bowls of satay noodles. In Zengcuoan, eating is the heart of the experience, a delicious stroll through Xiamen’s coastal soul.

曾厝垵是另一个见证厦门历史的景点。它曾是一个宁静的渔村,如今已成为厦门热闹的 “海滨小吃城”,每条小巷都弥漫着诱人的香味。在温暖的阳光下,摊位上摆满了当地风味小吃。小贩们兴高采烈地叫卖着烤鱿鱼串、芒果刨冰和热气腾腾的沙爹面。在曾厝垵,美食是体验旅游的核心,是一次探索厦门海滨灵魂的漫步。

There are many snacks here, but few delights could be compared to biting into a steaming crab roe soup bao. The thin, delicate wrapper trembles as I lifted it from the bamboo steamer. With one careful sip, the rich broth bursts forth. The taste is sweet and briny, infused with the essence of fresh crab and a hint of ginger. Then comes the filling itself and leaves a lingering savoriness that feels both indulgent and comforting. With a dash of vinegar and a hint of ginger, the flavor feels lighter and less greasy.

这里的小吃琳琅满目,但少有能比得上咬上一口热气腾腾的蟹黄汤包带来的满足感。我轻轻从竹蒸笼里取出一个,薄薄的包皮微微颤动。轻轻一抿,浓郁咸香的汤汁便溢满口腔,蟹的鲜香与姜的清爽巧妙融合。紧随其后的馅料香味回味悠长,令人难以忘怀。再蘸上一点醋与姜丝,清爽中带着微微酸香,既鲜美又不腻。

In the afternoon, after I finished the stroll along the seaside promenade, I visited the South Putuo Temple which is one of the most celebrated Buddhist temples in Fujian Province, located at the southern foot of Wulao Peak. With its back to the mountains and facing the sea, the temple enjoys a harmonious natural setting that has made it both a spiritual sanctuary and a major cultural landmark.

下午,漫步完海滨长廊后,我前往位于五老峰南麓的南普陀寺,它是福建省著名的佛教寺庙之一。寺院背山面海,自然环境和谐,既是精神圣地,也是重要的文化地标。

The temple’s history dates back to the Tang dynasty, but it gained its present name during the Ming dynasty, when it became associated with Guanyin (the Bodhisattva of Compassion). Since then, South Putuo temple has been regarded as the southern counterpart of Putuo mountain, one of the four sacred Buddhist mountains of China. The temple complex covers a large area and is built in a traditional symmetrical layout, with halls aligned along the central axis.

南普陀寺的历史可追溯至唐代,而“南普陀” 这一名称则始于明代,缘于对观世音菩萨(大悲菩萨)的虔诚信仰。自此,寺庙便被视为中国四大佛教名山之一——普陀山的南端圣地。南普陀寺占地广阔,建筑布局沿袭传统对称格局,殿堂沿中轴线依次排列。

This is the entrance hall, Heavenly King Hall guarded by the Four Heavenly Kings and Maitreya Buddha. Because South Putuo is one of the most important Buddhist temples in southern China, people believe that incense offerings here carry special merit and spiritual power. I came here to burn incense on the last day of the year, seeking blessings for the upcoming New Year. Lanterns swayed gently in the breeze. The air was thick with the fragrance of sandalwood incense, mingling with the faint sound of chanting monks inside the grand halls.

眼前是入口大殿——天王殿,由四大天王与弥勒佛守护。南普陀作为中国南方最重要的佛教圣地之一,人们相信在这里焚香能积累殊胜功德。我在年末来到此地,虔心焚香,为即将到来的新年祈福。微风轻拂,红色灯笼轻轻摇曳,空气中弥漫着浓郁的檀香气息,与大殿内僧侣悠扬的诵经声交织回荡。

In the temple, there is a canteen selling local food. I ordered one bowl of Shacha noodles, one of the most iconic street foods of Xiamen. At first glance, the dish looks simple: yellow wheat noodles served in a steaming bowl of broth. But the soul of Shacha noodles lies in the shacha sauce — a deep, rich paste made from soybean oil, garlic, shallots, chilies, and especially dried seafood like shrimp. This sauce, with its smoky, slightly spicy, umami-packed taste, gives the dish its unforgettable character. The sip of broth is savory and aromatic, carrying the warmth of spices and the depth of seafood.

庙里有一家小小的食堂,专门售卖当地街头美食。我点了一碗沙茶面。这可是厦门最具代表性的特色小吃之一。乍看之下,它似乎简单:一碗热气腾腾的汤头中铺着金黄的小麦面条。然而,沙茶面的灵魂在于那一勺沙茶酱。酱料由大豆油、大蒜、红葱头、辣椒,以及虾等精心调制的海鲜干货熬制而成,浓郁醇厚,带着淡淡烟熏味和辛辣余韵,又鲜美异常,为整碗面注入独特的风味。舀一口汤底,香气扑鼻,鲜味浓郁,香料的温暖与海鲜的鲜美交织在舌尖上。

Jimei School Village, located on the northern side of Xiamen Island is a landmark of education, culture, and history founded by the famous overseas Chinese philanthropist Tan Kah Kee in the early 20th century. He established Jimei Primary School first, and over the years expanded it into a full educational complex that included middle schools, vocational schools, and eventually colleges. Today, it has grown into a network of institutions with a reputation that extends across China and overseas.

集美学村坐落于厦门岛北侧,由著名华侨慈善家陈嘉庚先生于20世纪初创立,是一处兼具教育、文化与历史价值的地标。陈嘉庚先生最初创办集美小学,随后不断拓展,将其发展成为涵盖中学、职业教育及大学的完整教育体系。如今,集美学村已成长为享誉海内外的学府,成为承载文化底蕴与学术精神的重要象征。

The campus architecture is one of its most striking features. Buildings here combine magnificent Western-style structures with traditional Southern Fujian architectural elements with red brick walls, swallowtail eaves, decorative tiles, and stone carvings. This unique blend creates a setting that is both scholarly and culturally distinctive, often described as “the Tan Kah Kee style.” I was sitting beside a large, scenic pool where dragon boat races are held during traditional festivals and enjoyed the tranquil environment which brought me back to the memory of my university life.

校园建筑是这里最引人注目的特色之一。西式建筑的宏伟气派与闽南传统元素的精巧雅致在此交融,红砖墙、燕尾檐、装饰瓷砖与石雕相映成趣。这种独特的融合营造出既饱含学术气息,又深蕴文化底蕴的环境,被人们称为 “陈嘉庚风格”。我坐在风景如画的人工湖旁,每逢传统节日,池上还会上演热闹的龙舟赛。静静凝望周围的景致,不由得涌上心头的是对大学时光的回忆。

A museum and a park are dedicated to Tan Kah Kee’s life and contributions, filled with historical documents, photographs, and personal belongings. Tan Kah Kee was a legendary overseas Chinese entrepreneur and educator. Born in Jimei, he migrated to Singapore as a teenager to help with his father’s business. Believing education was the foundation of national strength, he established Xiamen University, the first university in China founded entirely by overseas Chinese funds. He played a decisive role in founding Nanyang University, the first Chinese-language university outside of China, which later became part of Nanyang Technological University.

这里设有博物馆和公园,以纪念陈嘉庚的一生及其卓越贡献。馆内收藏了丰富的历史文献、珍贵照片和个人物品,再现了这位传奇海外华人企业家与教育家的生平。陈嘉庚出生于集美,少年时期随父移居新加坡,协助家族经商。他坚信教育是国家的根本,创办了首所完全由海外华人出资兴办的大学厦门大学。在创办新加坡的南洋大学的过程中,他也发挥了关键作用。该校是中国境外首所中文大学,后发展成为南洋理工大学的重要前身。

The turtle Garden includes garden and cemetery where Tan Kah Kee himself is buried, facing the sea. It is filled with stone carvings and sculptures that narrate episodes of history and culture. Now people still memorize how he poured his fortune into education for the Chinese community both at home and abroad after visiting this place.

这座鳌园集花园与墓园于一体,陈嘉庚先生长眠于此,面朝浩瀚大海。园中遍布精美的石雕与雕塑,每一处都讲述着历史的篇章与文化的故事。今日,游人漫步其间,仍能感怀先生将一生财富倾注于海内外华人教育的无私奉献。

The Nanyang-style architectures here left me a deep impression. It combines red brick and swallowtail roof ridges of Minnan houses with arched windows, colonnades, and verandas from Western colonial architecture. Roman columns, and Gothic-style arches are used as well, creating a cultural mix. When I visited Xiamen, I always felt that I seemed to visit Singapore. These school buildings and their styles reminded strongly of The Chinese High School in Singapore. There’s a real sense of déjà vu.

这里的南洋建筑风格给我留下了深刻的印象。它巧妙地融合了闽南民居的红砖燕尾脊与西方殖民时期建筑的拱形窗、柱廊和阳台,甚至融入了罗马柱与哥特式拱门,营造出一种独特的文化交融氛围。每次踏足厦门,我总有置身新加坡的错觉。这些校舍的风格,与新加坡华侨中学的建筑有着奇妙的呼应,让人心生似曾相识的温暖感。

Outside of the Jimei school village, it is the Ten Miles Long Causeway which is one of the most romantic places in Xiamen as the sun dips low over the horizon. It connects the island to mainland China. High speed train and metro tram pass over the bridges over the long causeway. I arrived at this place nearly at 6 pm and this was my last travel destination in this city.

集美学村之外,是十里长堤。夕阳西下之时,这里成为厦门最浪漫的去处之一。长堤上一道道桥梁,连接着厦门岛与大陆,高铁与地铁在其上疾驰而过。我抵达此地时,大约是傍晚六点,这也是我在这座城市的最后一站。

Stretching gracefully between the sea and the sky, the causeway was bathed in golden light, its stone path glowing softly under the warmth of dusk. On one side, the water shimmered with the reflection of the fading sun, rippling like liquid fire; on the other, the distant skyline slowly melted into silhouettes against the pastel sky. Couples strolled hand in hand along the path, and the evening breeze carried the scent of the ocean and the gentle waves lapped against the shore. As twilight deepened, the sky turned to orange, painting a canvas that seems endless above the causeway.

十里长堤优雅地延伸于海天之间,沐浴在金色的光芒中,石子路在黄昏的温暖中泛着柔和的光芒。一边,水面在落日的余晖中波光粼粼,宛如流动的火焰泛起涟漪;另一边,远处的天际线在柔和的天空映衬下缓缓消融,化作光影轮廓。情侣们手牵手漫步在小径上,晚风带来海洋的气息,轻柔的海浪轻拍着海岸。随着暮色渐深,天空转为金橙色,仿佛在堤道上方描绘出一幅无边的画布。

Xiamen was my last stop of travel in Fujian. As I lingered by the shore for another time, the waves rolled in gently, carrying away the noise of my thoughts, returning only a calm that feels rare in the rush of everyday life. Xiamen’s seaside doesn’t overwhelm like Cote D’Azur, but it soothes my soul. Sitting by the water, I felt my worries dissolve, replaced by the simple joy of watching the horizon blur between sea and sky. Perhaps that is the true gift of this city: a quiet reminder that peace in my heart can be found not in grand monuments, but in the gentle embrace of the ocean.

厦门是我此次福建之旅的最后一站。当我再一次在海边徘徊,海浪轻轻翻滚,带走了纷乱的思绪,只留下在喧嚣日常中难得的宁静。这里的海滨没有法国蔚蓝海岸那般惊艳,却以温柔抚慰着我的心灵。静坐水边,所有的烦恼仿佛随风而去,取而代之的是凝视海天交汇处模糊地平线时涌上的纯粹快乐。也许,这便是这座城市的真正馈赠:悄然提醒我们,心中的平静并非源自宏大叙事,而是来自大海温柔的拥抱。

Following the Immortals on Heavenly Paths of Wuyi

仙踪云路武夷行

In the quiet cradle of northwest Fujian lies a sacred land called Wuyi Mountain. This UNESCO World Heritage site is like a living poem, etched in cliffs and whispered by waters, where Taoist sages, Confucian scholars, and tea masters once walked in reflection. Wuyi is not only known for its breathtaking landscapes — crimson cliffs, emerald rivers, and cloud-kissed peaks — but for its legendary rock tea and the graceful balance between culture and nature. I spent three days in this beautiful place during my Christmas trip in 2024 and caught its most splendid moment from morning to evening using my camera.

福建西北部静谧的群山坐落着一片名为武夷的旅游圣地。这座被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的瑰宝,如同一首镌刻在赤壁丹崖上的活诗,山水之间低吟浅唱,道家高士、儒家学者与茶道大师皆曾在此驻足沉思。武夷山不仅以其令人叹为观止的自然美景著称——赤红的岩壁、碧绿的溪流、云雾缭绕的山峰如画卷般铺展开来——更因其传奇的岩茶与自然、人文交融的独特气质而闻名于世。2024年圣诞节,我在这里度过了三天的悠然时光,用镜头追逐晨曦与暮霭,记录下武夷山最动人的瞬间

As the first rays of morning pierced the veil of winter mist, the tea fields of Wuyi Mountain began to stir. The golden sun poured its light across the terraced slopes like warm honey. It spilled over the ridges with a quiet generosity, wrapping the emerald bushes in a soft glow. Shadows retreated behind stone ridges, and the winter chill that once clung to the earth began to ease. In that moment, under the golden winter sun, the tea fields breathe again — calm, green, and alive.

当清晨第一缕柔光突破冬日的薄雾,武夷山的茶田悄然苏醒。金色的晨曦似温暖的蜜,倾泻于错落的梯田之上,为每一株翠绿的茶树披上了柔和的光纱。随着阴影渐渐退到石脊之后,那曾笼罩大地的寒意也随之散去。就在这金色的冬日晨光中,茶田再度焕发出生机——一片宁静、翠绿且充满生命力的景象。

By midday, the sun stood high above its jade-carved ridges, the sunlight was no longer gentle, but bright and steady — like a lantern held by heaven itself. The mist of morning has melted away, revealing the full grandeur of the mountain’s contours. Below, the Nine-Bend Stream flowed with tranquil rhythm, its surface catching fragments of sunlight like broken mirrors. The river bends reflected the sky and mountain, turning blue and green into liquid silk. At this moment, the mountains basked in the warmth cozily.

正午时分,太阳高悬于玉脊之巅,阳光不再柔和,炙热而明亮,如同一盏高高升起的金色灯笼。晨雾早已散去,群山的雄伟轮廓清晰显现,仿佛沉默的巨人肃立在天地之间。九曲溪悄然流淌在山脚下,水面宛如碎裂的镜子,反射着阳光的碎金。河湾中,山峦与天空倒映其间,蓝与绿交织成流动的丝绸,轻轻荡漾。此刻,万物静谧,唯有阳光洒落在山巅与水面,群山仿佛在这金色的洗礼中微微舒展,尽显从容与惬意。

As the sun began its descent behind the distant ridge lines, Xiannü Peak caught the day’s final light. Her gentle silhouette, carved with grace and quiet dignity, stood bathed in a golden radiance, as if she herself is aglow from within. Pale rose, soft gold, and lavender hues wrapped around her like flowing robes of silk. The surrounding peaks darkened, but Xiannü Peak remained luminous and serene, like a goddess suspended between heaven and earth.

当夕阳缓缓沉入远方的山脊,仙女峰悄然捕捉到这一天最后的余晖。她柔和的轮廓在暮色中愈发清晰,如同被雕刻出的宁静与优雅,沐浴在一抹金色的光芒中,仿佛自身也在发光。淡玫瑰、柔金与浅紫交织成梦幻的色彩,如轻纱长裙般环绕其身,为她披上神秘而圣洁的外衣。周围群峰渐渐黯淡,唯有仙女峰依旧熠熠生辉,安详矗立,如一位悬浮于天地之间的女神,静观日落,凝视永恒。

I lived in the hotel not far away from the scenic area. From the streets of Wuyi City, the mountains rose not far away, their green silhouettes etched clearly against the sky. Standing on this bridge, I could easily catch sight of the rolling ridges and majestic cliffs. The boundary between city and mountain here feels soft.

我下榻在一间临近景区的酒店,举目望去,武夷山市街道的尽头便是群山环绕。翠绿的山峦在天幕下轮廓分明,仿佛触手可及。站在桥上眺望,连绵起伏的山脊与雄伟的悬崖一览无遗,如画卷般铺展开来。在这片土地上,城市与山脉仿佛渐渐融为一体,界限变得模糊,仿佛自然悄然渗入了城市的肌理之中

It is really a sanctuary for the weary heart, a place where every breath feels lighter, every step slower. Here, the pace of life softens naturally. Even while walking along the quiet streets, relaxation comes easily. The sky stretched wide and endlessly blue, like a silk canopy unfurled above. The green peaks stood nearby, calm and ever-present. They seemed close enough to touch, always within sight, as if the mountains were quietly keeping company with the town below. As I strolled through the city, the scene was like a living painting—crystal-clear waters meandering through town, their surfaces shimmering under the sunlight, mirroring the sky and cliffs above. The river glided slowly, and its calm flow seemed to carry away every worry.

这里真是一处治愈疲惫心灵的圣地。空气清新,连呼吸都变得轻盈,脚步也不由自主地慢了下来。在这里,生活的节奏仿佛自然地放缓了,就连随意走宁静的街道上,也能让人感到从容与自在。湛蓝如洗的天空,如丝绸般轻柔地铺展开来,令人心旷神怡。近处的群山苍翠欲滴,静谧安然,仿佛就守护在城市的边缘,不动声色地陪伴着每一位过客。它们始终停留在视野之中,带来一种踏实的安宁。漫步城中,眼前的景象犹如一幅流动的画卷。清澈的河水静静蜿蜒穿过城镇,水面在阳光下泛着粼粼波光,映照着蔚蓝的天空与巍峨的山崖。河水缓缓流淌,仿佛把心头的烦忧一并带走,让人心随水远,宁静而澄澈。

There are four major scenic spots in Wuyi Mountain: Tianyou Mountain, The One-Line Sky, Tiger Roaring Rock, and Xiannü Peak. Visitors can go to each place by buses connecting every scenic spot. The travel infrastructure in the area is perfect. Travelers can choose any ways they want like strolling quietly along the stream, direct buses, rugged mountain paths or a romantic trip of bamboo rafts.

武夷山风景区主要包括四大核心景区:天游山、一线天、虎啸岩和仙女峰。各景点之间有观光巴士相连,交通便利,游客可以轻松往返其间。武夷山的旅游基础设施十分完善,无论是沿溪漫步,感受宁静自然;还是搭乘直达巴士,快捷省心;亦或沿着蜿蜒的山路徒步探幽,体验探险之趣;又或是乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪上,享受诗意浪漫的水上之旅,游客皆可依自身喜好自由选择,畅游其间。

Hailed as the most iconic peak of Wuyi Mountain, Tianyou Mountain — meaning “Heavenly Tour Peak” — is a place where the earth seems to merge with the sky. Rising to an elevation of about 408 meters, it is known as the “First Wonderland of Wuyi” and is a must-visit for those seeking the essence of Wuyi’s beauty. The mountain is straight and steep like a very tall wall raised in front of me.

天游山被誉为武夷山最具标志性的山峰。在这里,天地仿佛交融,云雾缭绕间,仿佛步入人间仙境。山峰海拔约408米,有“武夷第一仙境”之称,是领略武夷山之美不可错过的胜地。山势陡峭挺拔,仿佛一道高墙巍然矗立在眼前,既震撼又令人心生敬畏。

The climb to the summit winds through 888 steep stone steps, ancient pines, and dramatic cliffs. Along the way, travelers are very tired but greeted by stunning views of emerald peaks and the famous Nine-Bend Stream curling gracefully below like a jade ribbon. As I ascended higher, the morning mist thinned, the beauty of Wuyi unfolded in my eyes gradually.

攀登顶峰之路蜿蜒曲折,沿途是888级陡峭的石阶,穿行于古松参天、悬崖峭壁交错的山林之间。一路上,游客们虽疲惫不堪,却也被眼前的美景所吸引:翠绿的山峰层层叠叠,九曲溪宛如玉带般在山谷中蜿蜒流淌。随着海拔逐渐升高,缭绕的晨雾缓缓散去,武夷山的壮丽风光也在我眼前徐徐铺展,令人心旷神怡,忘却疲惫。

At the summit, the reward is breathtaking — a panoramic view of the entire Wuyi landscape. Tea fields ripple across the hills, the transparent and clear winding stream glistens like silk, and distant ridges stand in layered blues and greens. On clear days, the sky feels close enough to touch, and the clouds drift past at eye level, creating the sensation of walking through the heavens.

登顶之时,眼前展现出令人叹为观止的壮丽景色——武夷山的秀美尽收眼底。茶田如绿毯般蜿蜒于起伏的山峦之间,清澈透明的溪流宛如丝绸般闪耀,远方的山脊层层叠叠,碧波荡漾。晴朗的天空仿佛伸手可及,云朵轻轻飘过眼前,犹如漫步于天际之间。

The tea terraces represent centuries of craftsmanship and culture of Wuyi. Layer upon layer, the terraces ripple across the slopes like emerald waves, following the curves of the mountains. Here, the famous rock tea grows and is nourished by the mineral-rich soil and the unique mountain mist that drifts through the air. The tea bushes cling to the rugged terrain, their deep roots reaching into cracks of ancient stone. In the early morning, the terraces were veiled in soft fog. As the sun rises, its light gradually melt away the mist, revealing glistening leaves covered with tiny dew droplets, shimmering under the golden glow.

茶叶梯田凝聚了武夷数百年的工艺与文化。层层叠叠的梯田宛如碧波荡漾,沿着山峦的曲线蜿蜒而上。这里生长着著名的岩茶,富含矿物质的土壤和弥漫于空气中的独特山雾滋养着茶树。茶树依傍着崎岖的地形,根系深入古老的石缝之中。清晨时分,梯田被轻柔的雾气笼罩,随着太阳冉冉升起,阳光渐渐驱散薄雾,露出晶莹剔透的茶叶,叶面挂满晶莹的露珠,在金色光芒的映照下熠熠生辉。

Da Hong Pao is called the “King of Rock Teas”. The name Da Hong Pao, meaning “Big Red Robe,” originates from a centuries-old legend. It is said that during the Ming Dynasty, a scholar traveling to the imperial exams fell gravely ill while passing through Wuyi Mountain. Local monks brewed him tea from a special bush growing on the cliffs. After drinking it, he recovered miraculously, went on to excel in his exams, and became a high-ranking official. In gratitude, the emperor sent great red robes to cover the bushes that had produced the miraculous tea.

大红袍,被誉为“岩茶之王”,因其背后流传百年的传奇故事而增添神秘色彩。相传在明朝,一位赴京赶考的书生途经武夷山,不幸染上重病。山中僧人以生长在悬崖峭壁上的一种奇特茶树之叶为他煮茶,书生饮后病体迅速痊愈,顺利参加科举并金榜题名,最终官拜高位。得知此事的皇帝为表嘉奖,特命人将大红袍披于这几株灵茶之上,“大红袍”之名由此流传至今。

In this photo, the six mother trees of Da Hong Pao preserved in the red rails are regarded as national treasures. Due to their extreme rarity and cultural value, harvesting leaves from these ancient bushes has been strictly forbidden since 2006 to preserve them for future generations.

照片中,红色篱笆围护着六棵大红袍母树,被誉为国宝。因其极为珍稀且具有重要的文化价值,自2006年起便被全面禁止采摘,以永久保护这一珍贵遗产,传承给子孙后代。

Wuyi Mountain is laced with countless winding paths, inviting travelers to explore its hidden corners. As I wandered through its serene valleys, it wasn’t just the towering cliffs and emerald waters that drew my gaze. Scattered across moss-covered walls and carved into the rugged cliffs are hundreds of stone inscriptions—some weathered and fading with time, others still strikingly vivid. These ancient etchings feel like whispers from the past. Walking past them, I felt as though I were retracing the footsteps of explorers like Xu Xiake, following the trails they once walked.

武夷山蜿蜒曲折,无数小径在山林间穿行,仿佛在邀请旅人去探寻那些隐秘而静谧的角落。漫步于宁静的山谷,不仅是巍峨的峭壁和碧波荡漾的溪流吸引着我,更多的是岩壁间那些沉默却深刻的印记。青苔斑驳的石壁上,散布着上百处石刻——有的已随岁月风化,模糊了轮廓;有的却依然清晰如昨,气韵犹存。它们仿佛是历史在低语,是前人留下的心声。在这样的山路上前行,我仿佛化身为徐霞客,沿着他当年的足迹,穿越时光。

Winter is better time to visit Wuyi. Most of the evergreen trees—such as pine and bamboo—remain lush and steadfast, their deep green needles and leaves standing firm against the cool air. They blanket the slopes and line the streams. Some maples and sweet gum trees blush with lingering shades of amber, gold, and soft crimson, their leaves fluttering lightly in the wind. The colors are not as fiery as autumn.

冬季是游览武夷山的最佳时节。山中大多数常绿树木,如松树和竹子,依然郁郁葱葱、挺拔苍翠,深绿的枝叶在清冷的空气中显得更加坚韧有力。这些绿色植物覆盖着山坡,沿着潺潺溪流蜿蜒伸展,构成一幅宁静而和谐的冬日画卷。而少数枫树与枫香树,则悄然披上了琥珀、金黄与浅红的斑斓色彩,叶片在山风中轻轻摇曳,虽不如深秋时节那般绚烂,却平添几分静美。

I was heading towards the next destination. As sunlight filtered through the thin winter clouds, the mountain glowed with a quiet radiance—green pines, yellow flowers and golden-brown leaves weave a soft, peaceful tapestry. The air is fresh, cool, and still, and every step through the mountain feels like walking through an ink-wash painting, immersing into nature.

我正缓步朝着下一个目的地前行。阳光穿透冬日薄云,洒落在山峦之间,为大地披上一层温柔的光辉。翠绿的松树、明黄的野花与金棕色的落叶交织成一幅宁静的锦绣画卷。空气清新而凉爽,四周静谧无声。每一步登上山道,都仿佛踏入一幅流动的水墨画,让人沉醉于大自然的诗意之中。

The One-Line Sky was the second scenic spot during my visit in Wuyi. It is a narrow gorge formed by the shifting and splitting of massive rock layers over countless years. It stretches for about 100 meters between two towering stone walls that lean so closely together that, in many parts, only a sliver of sky is visible overhead. I was really scary walking through it since the narrowest sections are barely wide enough for me to pass through, with only a faint band of light high above. The passage twisted and wound, revealing unexpected turns and I paused and looked up at the sliver of blue sky above. the air feels thick and cool. With every step deeper into the gorge, there was a growing sense of suffocation due to the overwhelming closeness of the space. The echo of footsteps reverberates eerily, amplifying the isolation.

一线天是我在武夷山游览的第二个景点。它是一条狭长幽深的峡谷,由亿万年间岩层的挤压与断裂逐渐形成,绵延百余米。两侧石壁高耸入云,几乎贴合在一起,只在顶部留下一线天光。踏入峡谷,最初是惊叹,但很快便被一种莫名的压迫感所笼罩。最狭窄的地方几乎无法侧身通过,头顶只剩下一道细如丝缕的蓝天。峡谷蜿蜒曲折,每一个转角都让人猝不及防。我不时停下脚步,抬头望向那一线天光。峡谷深处空气愈发阴冷,湿润的岩壁透出寒意。脚步声在狭窄空间中回荡,回声奇异,仿佛有人悄然跟随,让人倍感孤独与渺小。随着深入,一种窒息般的幽闭感慢慢加剧。

I quickened my pace, drawn forward by the unspoken desire to escape the closing grip of the rocks. As I finally emerged from the tightest stretch, the gorge widened and light flooded back in. There is an undeniable sense of being safe and free as if the wideness and warmness of world has returned to me.

我加快了脚步,心中那股无声的渴望驱使着我不断前行,只想逃离岩壁的压迫与束缚。终于,从那最狭窄的一段豁然走出,峡谷陡然开阔,阳光倾泻而下。一种难以言喻的安全感与自由感在胸中油然而生,仿佛重新呼吸到了世界的宽阔与温暖。

Among the many peaks that grace Wuyi Mountain, Xiannü Peak — also known as Fairy Maiden Peak stands out with its graceful beauty and timeless legend. Rising quietly by the riverbanks, this peak is famed for its elegant silhouette, said to resemble a celestial maiden wrapped in flowing robes, gazing softly over the landscape like a guardian.

武夷山群峰林立,其中仙女峰尤为引人注目,以其婀娜多姿的身姿与流传千古的传说而著称。仙女峰静静耸立在溪水之畔,线条柔美、轮廓清晰,远望宛如一位身着飘逸长袍的仙女,静静地凝望着四周的山水,仿佛在守护这片人间仙境。

Local legend tells of a celestial fairy who descended from heaven to help tame the floods and protect the people of Wuyi. She fell in love with the land and chose to remain, watching over the valleys and rivers below. Her spirit, as the story goes, became forever entwined with the mountain, her compassion and beauty eternally preserved in the stone.

相传,远古时有一位仙女自天而降,为助武夷百姓平息洪水,守护山川。她为这片青山绿水所倾心,甘愿留下,化作山灵,庇佑万物。人们说,她的灵魂早已与武夷山脉融为一体,她的慈悲与美丽,也悄然镌刻在山间岩石之上,亘古不灭。

I took a rest basked under the warm sunlight on the riverbanks to admire her from below. From this vantage point, the Fairy Maiden appears to watch over the winding Nine-Bend Stream , her reflection is visible in the shimmering waters. This must be the most iconic scene of Wuyi. On midday, when the sun cast clear shadows on the cliffs, her figure grew more distinct, standing tall and poised against the blue sky. In this quiet space, surrounded by mountains and clear stream, I simply sat — no rush, just basking in the sunlight. It felt as though the mountain itself was sharing its timeless serenity with me.

我坐在河岸边,沐浴着温暖的阳光,稍作歇息,抬头仰望那仙女般的山峰。从这个角度望去,仙女仿佛正俯瞰着脚下蜿蜒流淌的九曲溪,身影倒映在粼粼波光中,宛如一幅静谧的画卷。这里,大概是武夷山最具标志性的景致。正午的阳光洒落在峭壁之间,光影勾勒出仙女更加清晰的轮廓。在蓝天白云的映衬下,她显得巍峨而又优雅。四周群山环抱,溪水澄澈透明,我静静地坐着,不急不躁,只是安然地沉浸在这片阳光与山水交融的宁静中。此刻,仿佛连山峰本身也在与我一同分享它那恒久的安详与从容。

I enjoyed spending free time on the riverbank and looked at the bamboo rafts passing by one by one. The water here is as clear as glass, flowing gently over smooth stones and pebbles that glimmer beneath the surface like hidden jewels. In the quiet bends, the stream appears almost motionless, perfectly mirroring the surrounding cliffs, forests, and blue sky above. Lean closer and I could see right to the bottom—tiny fish dart between stones, leaves drift gracefully by, and the soft sands seems to glow with light.

我喜欢在河岸边悠闲地消磨时光,静静地看着一艘艘竹筏缓缓划过水面。这里的河水清澈如镜,轻柔地流过光滑的石块与圆润的鹅卵石,阳光透过水面洒下,它们在水中熠熠生辉,宛若深藏的宝石。静谧的河湾仿佛时光停驻,水面如天然画布,倒映着两岸的悬崖、茂密的林木,和蔚蓝天空。俯身靠近水面,我能清晰地望见河底的世界—小鱼灵巧地穿梭于石缝之间,落叶轻盈地随水漂流,细软的沙粒在阳光照射下泛着点点微光。

For every traveler, drifting on a bamboo raft along the Nine-Bend Stream is an experience not to be missed on a journey through Wuyi. As the raft gently sets off from the riverbank, the world seems to quiet. The only sounds are the soft splash of water against bamboo and the occasional call of a distant bird echoing through the valley.

对于每一位踏上武夷之旅的旅行者而言,乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪之上,都是不可错过的心灵体验。当竹筏缓缓离岸,喧嚣悄然退去,仿佛整个世界都静止了。耳畔只剩下潺潺水声轻拍竹筏,与山谷间偶尔传来的几声鸟鸣。

My trip of bamboo raft started in the very early morning with chill. The raft itself was simple — long bamboo poles lashed together, guided by a skilled boatman who stood at the stern, using a slender pole to steer. With each push, the raft glided smoothly over the crystal-clear waters, moving as effortlessly as a cloud drifting across the sky. The boatman paused halfway, allowing me to take beautiful photos while on the raft.

我的竹筏之旅始于空气清新,气温宜人的清晨。竹筏造型简易结实,由数根粗大的竹竿整齐捆扎而成。一位技艺娴熟的船夫站在筏尾,手持长杆掌舵。他每轻轻一撑,竹筏便在清澈的水面上平稳滑行,仿佛天边的云朵一般轻盈悠然。途中,船夫贴心地停下,让我可以在竹筏上尽情拍照,定格这份美好。

The scenery unfolded slowly, like a painting in motion. On both sides, towering cliffs rose steeply, their faces marked by ancient stone inscriptions and streaked with moss. Above, emerald peaks pierced the sky, some shrouded in mist, others basking in sunlight. Pine trees and bamboo groves leaned over the banks, their reflections swaying gently in the water below.

九曲溪景色徐徐铺展,如同一幅动态的画卷。两岸峭壁巍然耸立,崖壁间布满古老的石刻,青苔斑驳,诉说着岁月的痕迹。远处,翠峰高耸,或隐没在缭绕的云雾中,或沐浴在柔和的阳光里。岸边,松林与竹影相依,倒映在清澈的水面上,随风轻轻摇曳。

As the raft rounds each bend of the meandering stream, new vistas appeared—sometimes a narrow passage where cliffs almost touched. At that moment, I felt completely immersed in the landscape—half drifting, half dreaming. The mountain breeze brushed my face, carrying the faint scent of winter leaves. I enjoyed such a trip of around two hours. My boatman shared legends of the peaks like tales of immortals and lovers. As I glided along, there was no rush, only the soft rhythm of water and the endless unfolding of beauty.

木筏绕过蜿蜒溪流的每一个弯道,新的景致便悄然展开—有时是悬崖两岸几近相接的狭窄水道。此刻仿佛身心完全融入山水之间,半在漂流半入梦。冬叶的淡淡清香伴随山风轻抚我的脸庞,令人心神宁静。这趟约莫两个小时的旅程,如诗如画。船夫娓娓道来山峰的传说以及神仙与恋人的往事。当我随着水流缓缓前行,整个旅程不急不躁,只有溪水温柔的韵律,和眼前无尽的风景相伴。

Wuyi mountain is a perfect place for travelers to spend holidays. I enjoyed the moment when I walked alone the winding mountain path, surrounded by towering cliffs and whispering forests. The stone trail twisted ahead, empty and quiet—no voices, no footsteps, only the soft rustling of leaves and the distant murmur of water tumbling over rocks.

武夷山绝对是旅行者度假的理想之地。漫步于蜿蜒山径之间,仿佛走入一幅静谧的山水画。四周是巍峨的崖壁与低语的森林,石板路在脚下延伸,空旷而宁静——无人的喧嚣,无声的脚步,只有树叶在风中细语,和远处溪水轻拍岩石的呢喃。

There were no other travelers in sight; it felt as though the entire mountain had been reserved just for me. With no one around, I unlocked my phone and switched on the music player. Soon, my favorite song filled my ears, wrapping me in its familiar melody. As the music played, every step seemed lighter, every turn in the path more magical. The rhythm of the song blended with the sounds of nature. In that moment, the whole world seemed to belong to me alone.

四周寂静无声,仿佛整座山峰都为我独自矗立。我掏出手机,打开音乐播放器。熟悉的旋律随即在耳畔响起,将我轻柔包裹。随着音乐缓缓流淌,每一步都变得轻盈,每一道山路的转角仿佛藏着惊喜。歌声与林间鸟鸣、风声水语交织成一首只属于我的交响乐。那一刻,天地辽阔,世界仿佛只为我一人存在。

After ascending winding stone steps shaded by bamboo and ancient pines, I reached one ancient temple called Zhizhi An (止止庵), one of the mountain’s oldest and most secluded temples. Along the way, I could hear the sound of trickling springs and bird calls, as if leading me deeper into the mountain’s heart.

沿着蜿蜒曲折的石阶前行,两侧竹林掩映,古松苍翠,我一步步走向深山中的一座古寺——止止庵。它是山中最古老也最幽静的寺庙之一。一路上,泉水潺潺流淌,鸟鸣清脆婉转,仿佛在引领我走进一片世外之境,

Unlike grand, ornate temples found elsewhere, Zhizhi An is modest, blending gracefully into its mountain setting. Its old stone walls are weathered and moss-covered. Built during the Song Dynasty, the temple has long been associated with Zhu Xi (朱熹), one of China’s most renowned Confucian scholars. It is said that Zhu Xi once practiced quiet meditation here, finding inspiration amid its peaceful surroundings.

止止庵与其他宏伟华丽的寺庙迥然不同,朴素而低调,优雅地融入群山之中。古老的石墙历经风霜洗礼,覆盖着青苔,诉说着岁月的痕迹。这座始建于宋代的寺庙,与中国著名儒学大家朱熹有着深厚渊源。传闻朱熹曾在此静心修学,于宁静幽雅的环境中汲取智慧与灵感。

When I arrived, I was greeted not by grandeur, but by quiet simplicity: a small courtyard framed by old trees and delicate pot plants, and I could smell the faint scent of incense drifting through the air. The tranquility here reminded me the name of this temple which means “Stop and Stop”—a phrase that speaks of halting both physical steps and restless thoughts. When I visited it, my travel in Wuyi would end soon and this will be my last stop of this journey in Wuyi.

抵达这里时,迎接我的不是壮丽的气势,而是一种宁静而古朴的氛围:一个幽静的小院落,古树环绕,盆栽点缀,空气中弥漫着淡淡的香火清香。这份静谧让我联想到寺庙的名字——“止”,寓意着脚步与思绪的停歇。此刻,武夷之旅即将画上句号。

Before I left, I tasted the local dishes in Wuyi Mountain. This region is close to the Jiangxi province and the food is quite spicy. The spicy bamboo shoots fried with sauerkraut is a dish that perfectly captures the bold, rustic flavors of the region. Fresh bamboo shoots, harvested from the thick groves surrounding the cliffs, are prized for their crisp texture. They are stir-fried together with local sauerkraut. The bamboo shoots soak up the rich, spicy flavors of dried chili peppers and fragrant oil, creating a satisfying contrast between crunchy, sour, and spicy. It pairs perfectly with a bowl of freshly steamed rice.

离开武夷山之前,我特地品尝了这里的当地美食。武夷山靠近江西省,当地菜肴偏爱辛辣口味。其中,酸菜炒笋堪称一道地道的乡村佳肴。选用悬崖峭壁附近茂密竹林中采摘的新鲜竹笋,竹笋以其爽脆的质地闻名。竹笋与酸菜一同翻炒,充分吸收了干辣椒和香油的浓郁香辣,口感爽脆且酸辣交织,令人回味无穷。这道美味配上一碗新鲜出炉的米饭,堪称完美搭配。

Wuyi Smoked Duck is one of the region’s most iconic dishes, known for its rich, smoky fragrance and tender meat. Every visitor should try it. The duck is first marinated with local spices and salt, then slowly smoked over a fire fueled by tea leaves, pinewood, and camphor branches—a method unique to the Wuyi region. The result is a beautifully bronzed duck with crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat, infused with a subtle hint of tea and mountain herbs. It’s a dish that perfectly embodies Wuyi’s culinary style.

武夷烟熏鸭是当地最具代表性的美味佳肴,以其浓郁的烟熏香气和鲜嫩多汁的肉质闻名遐迩。每位来到武夷的游客都不容错过这道特色美食。制作过程中,选用优质鸭子,先用当地独特的香料和盐进行腌制,再采用武夷特有的熏制工艺——用茶叶、松木和樟树枝点燃的柴火,缓缓熏烤而成。成品鸭色泽金黄诱人,外皮酥脆,肉质细嫩鲜美,伴随着淡淡的茶香和山药的清幽芳香,令人回味无穷。这道菜完美展现了武夷独特的烹饪魅力和地域风味。

As a solo traveler, I found a rare kind of freedom here. Whether wandering the secluded mountain trails with only the sound of my footsteps or simply sitting by the river, letting the winter sun warm my face, I felt completely at ease. In Wuyi, there is no need to chase sights or rush between attractions. The beauty here is best savored slowly, like a fine cup of rock tea—letting the flavors unfold naturally, each moment revealing something new. For me, the best journeys are the ones where I can travel in my favorite rhythm and experience with my heart!

作为一名独自旅行的旅人,我在这里找到了久违的自由与宁静。漫步在幽静的山间小径,脚步声在林间回响,仿佛与自然对话;坐在河畔,任由冬日暖阳洒在身上,温柔得让人几乎忘了时间。在武夷,无需赶路,无需打卡,每一处风景都不必刻意追寻。它如一杯上好的岩茶,越是静心品味,越能感受到层层叠叠的韵味与惊喜。对我而言,最理想的旅程,就是顺着自己的节奏,慢慢走、用心体验每一刻!

Where Snow Meets Sky: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

雪落玉龙冲云霄

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain or called Yulong is a breathtaking mountain located just north of Lijiang in Yunnan Province. Towering at 5,596 meters, it’s the southernmost snow-capped mountain in the Northern Hemisphere and a sacred peak in Naxi culture, often associated with the guardian deity Sanduo. The mountain is named for its resemblance to a jade dragon lying gracefully among the clouds.

玉龙雪山是一座位于云南省丽江北境的壮丽山峰。它海拔5596米,是北半球维度最南的雪山,也是纳西族文化中的一座圣山,常与守护神三多联系在一起。这座山因其形似一条优雅地盘踞在云雾中的玉龙而得名。

In the sunny morning of June, standing on the charming cobblestone streets of Baisha Old Town, I could observe the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rising dramatically into the clouds. Beyond the tiled rooftops and faded murals of this ancient Naxi village, the sacred snow mountain showed its snow-covered peaks glowing in the sunlight. The journey from Lijiang to the mountain usually takes about 1.5 hours by bus, winding through scenic countryside and small villages. As I left the city behind, the snow-capped peaks began to dominate the horizon gradually.

六月阳光明媚的清晨,在白沙古城迷人的鹅卵石街道上,我注视着远方雄伟的玉龙雪山,它巍峨地耸立在云霄之中。在古老纳西村落的瓦屋顶和褪色的壁画映衬下,这座神圣的雪山向游客展现出白雪皑皑的主峰,在阳光下熠熠生辉。从丽江到玉龙雪山通常乘坐巴士大约需要一个半小时,一路上蜿蜒穿过风景秀丽的乡村,当我彻底离开城市时,白雪皑皑的山峰逐渐笼罩了整个地平线。

As I arrived at the entrance of scenic spot and gazed upwards, the mountain emerged like a silent colossus, its jagged, snow-dusted peaks piercing through a veil of drifting mist. The clouds curled around the mountain’s flanks like flowing silk, revealing glimpses of gleaming ice and ancient rock. Sunlight filters through the clouds, casting a silvery glow on the snow-covered ridges. The contrast between the dark pine forests at the base and the glittering whiteness above is striking, heightening the sense that this is a place touched by the divine.

当我抵达景区入口,抬头仰望,山峰宛如一座安静的巨人,嶙峋的雪峰在层层云雾中若隐若现。云雾缭绕,宛如飘逸的丝绸环绕在山腰,闪闪发光的冰块和古老的岩层在云彩的遮掩下犹抱琵琶半遮面。阳光透过厚厚的云层,在白雪皑皑的山脊上洒下一层银色的光芒。山脚下深邃的松林与山顶晶莹的白雪形成了鲜明的对比,更让人感受到仿佛置身于一片神圣的土地。

The snow mountain is not only known for its towering snow-capped peaks but also for its rich variety of scenic spots like Spruce Meadow, Blue Moon Valley, and Yak Meadow. Separate from the Glacier Park cable car towards the peak, the cable car at mid-level altitude leads visitors to forested trails and open meadows, where they can stroll under tall evergreens with the snowy peaks in the distance.

这座雪山不仅以其巍峨的雪峰而闻名,还拥有例如云杉坪、蓝月谷和牦牛坪等丰富多样的景点。与通往山顶的冰川公园大索道不同,中海拔的缆车引导游客前往山脊中间的森林小径和开阔的草地,在那里,游客可以漫步在高大的常青树下,远眺白雪皑皑的山峰。

Spruce Meadow, is a serene alpine pasture nestled on the eastern slope of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, about 3,240 meters above sea level. Surrounded by towering spruce trees and backed by the majestic snow-capped peaks, it is often described as a “natural oxygen bar”.

云杉坪是一片安静的高山牧场,坐落在玉龙雪山东坡,海拔约3240米。云杉坪周围环绕着高耸的云杉树,背靠雄伟的雪峰,被誉为“天然氧吧”。

Spruce is a type of coniferous evergreen tree that belongs to the genus Picea. These trees are commonly found in cool or mountainous regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The tall and straight trees have sharp, four-sided needles that grow individually from the branches and keep their green needles year-round, making them a symbol of endurance and vitality.

云杉是一种常绿针叶树,属于云杉属,常见于北半球的高山或气候凉爽的地区。这种树木高大挺拔,枝干坚实,树叶呈针状,四面分布,独立生长,终年常绿。它不仅展现出顽强的生命力,也象征着坚韧与生机。

This peaceful meadow holds deep cultural significance for the local Naxi people, who believe it to be a sacred land—a place where lovers pledge eternal devotion and spirits find peace. The area is shrouded in mystery mist. A wooden boardwalk allows me to wander gently through the forest and meadow, soaking in the crisp mountain air.

这片宁静的草甸在当地纳西族人心中有着深厚的文化与精神意义。他们视其为一片圣地——恋人曾在这里立下永恒的誓言,逝去的灵魂也在这里得以安息。薄雾轻笼,山林静谧,为这里增添了一层神秘的氛围。沿着蜿蜒的木栈道,我悠然漫步在苍翠的森林与广阔的草甸之间,呼吸着清冽纯净的山间空气,仿佛走进了一个遗世独立的净土。

Spruce Meadow

As I wandered through Spruce Meadow, it’s not just the towering spruces and misty mountain backdrop that captured my heart. It’s the quiet presence of the animals that call this alpine pasture home. Grazing cattle and gentle lambs moved slowly across the open fields, their dark silhouettes a peaceful contrast against the soft green of the grass and the distant silver peaks. I was totally immersed in the beaty of nature and forgot the elapse of time.

当我漫步在云杉草甸上,吸引我心灵的,不仅是巍峨挺拔的云杉和缭绕在山峦之间的云雾,还有那些悠然栖息在高山牧场上的动物们。成群的牛儿低头吃草,温顺的羊羔轻盈地穿行在开阔的草地上,它们深色的身影与柔软的绿草、远处银白色的雪山交相辉映,构成一幅静谧而生动的高原画卷。此刻,我仿佛与自然融为一体,忘却了时间的流转。

Life moves at a slower and more peaceful rhythm—not just for visitors, but for the local cattle that roam freely through the open fields and forest edges. These animals, often a mix of local mountain breeds and Tibetan yak hybrids, are well adapted to the high-altitude environment and cooler climate. These animals live in harmony with the land, tended by local Naxi herders who have practiced traditional grazing here for generations.

这里的生活节奏变得缓慢宁静——不仅对游客如此,对那些在开阔的草地和林缘间自由徜徉的牛群也是如此。这些牛大多是本地山地牛与藏牦牛的杂交品种,体型结实,适应高海拔和凉爽的山地气候,显得格外沉稳。它们由世代居住于此的纳西族牧民放养,与这片土地建立起深厚而和谐的关系,成为雪山脚下这片宁静天地的一部分。

At the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Blue Moon Valley is a place of breathtaking, otherworldly beauty. Its scene mixed of mountain and water is similar to Jiu Zhaigou. With its turquoise-blue glacial waters, terraced limestone pools, and surrounding forests, the valley looks like a scene lifted from a fairy tale—or a moonlit dream, which is exactly how it got its name.

蓝月谷静静地坐落在玉龙雪山脚下,美得令人屏息,仿佛遗世独立的人间仙境。山与水交织的画面,如同九寨沟般梦幻迷人。碧蓝如玉的冰川融水,层层叠叠的石灰岩水潭,在阳光下泛着神秘的光泽,四周被茂密的森林环抱,营造出一个仿佛只存在于童话中的世界。而当夜色降临,月光洒落水面,整片山谷宛若沉入一场幽蓝的梦境——“蓝月谷”这个名字,便由此得来。

The pure color of the water comes from the mountain’s glacial runoff. Water tumbles down a series of natural white stone steps, forming gentle waterfalls and quiet lagoons. The cleanness of the water is due to its content rich in calcium carbonate, which gives the pools their signature jade and sapphire hues, really mesmerizing.

纯净澄澈的水色源自雪山冰川的融水,沿着天然的白色石阶缓缓流淌,汇聚成轻柔的瀑布与静谧的湖泊。这清凉的泉水富含碳酸钙,赋予湖水如翡翠般的碧绿与蓝宝石般的湛蓝光泽,梦幻如画。

Blue Moon Valley

On clear days, the lagoon reflects the sky like a mirror, creating a glowing crescent shape that resembles a blue moon resting in the valley. Its surface is so still and clear that it reflects clearly the surrounding forests and cliffs like a painting, creating a perfect blend of sky, mountain, and water. I really enjoyed the gentle sound of cascading water. The natural environment made me relax.

晴朗的日子里,泻湖如同一面晶莹剔透的镜子,倒映着湛蓝的天空,勾勒出一道闪耀的新月,仿佛一轮蓝色的月亮静静地依偎在山谷之间。湖水平静澄澈,四周的森林与悬崖清晰倒映在水面上,仿佛天地与湖泊在此完美交融,构成一幅天然的山水画卷。我沉浸在潺潺流水的轻柔声中,心灵被这片纯净的自然抚慰,感受到久违的宁静与放松。

The astonishing sapphire hue of the water really captured my breath. It was so vivid and felt almost unreal. The color glowed under the sunlight, a deep, crystalline blue that shifted and shimmered with every ripple. It’s not the ordinary blue of lakes or rivers, but a gem-like brilliance, as if someone had poured liquid sapphire across the land, giving it eternal glory.

看湖水那令人惊叹的蓝宝石色泽,仿佛能瞬间将我的呼吸凝固。它如此鲜艳纯洁,令人几乎怀疑自己的眼睛是否陷入了一场梦境。阳光洒落在湖面上,湖水泛起深蓝色的光辉,每一次微风吹过,涟漪荡漾,波光闪烁,犹如璀璨星空。这不仅仅是普通湖泊的蓝色,而是如宝石般绽放的光芒,仿佛大自然亲手将液态蓝宝石倾洒在这片大地上,赋予它永恒的光辉。

The calm water became a flawless mirror—so smooth and undisturbed like polished glass. What’s most striking was the sharp, almost surreal line that divides the reflection—the point where blue met green, where sky and forest kissed across the water’s face.

平静的水面如同一面完美无瑕的镜子,光滑如抛光玻璃,静谧无波。最为引人注目的是那条几乎超现实的分界线——蓝色与绿色交织之处,天空与森林在水面上交相辉映。

Walking around the lake was definitely an enjoyable trip like stepping into a living watercolor painting. A well-kept path wound gently along the shoreline, guiding me past a series of glacial-blue pools and cascading waterfalls. The only sounds were the soft murmur of water and the occasional rustle of wind through the trees. As I circled the lake, I passed some scenic viewing platforms where I could stop to take in the full grandeur of the valley and experience the miracle of the nature.

环湖漫步绝对是一段令人陶醉的旅程,我仿佛步入了一幅生动的水彩画中。一条小径沿着湖岸蜿蜒而行,精心维护的步道引领我穿越一片片湛蓝的湖水和轻盈垂落的瀑布。四周弥漫着细水潺潺的声音,偶尔风吹过树梢,带来一阵沙沙的低语。随着我绕湖一圈,沿途经过了几个风景如画的观景台,每一处都让我驻足,深深吸一口清新的空气,陶醉于山谷的宏伟景色中,与大自然的奇妙邂逅永远镌刻在心间。

On the top of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Glacier Park offers one of the most thrilling and unforgettable encounters with alpine beauty. Reached via a dramatic cable car ride that lifts visitors to an altitude of 4,500 meters, the park is a realm of icy wonder—where jagged peaks pierce the clouds and ancient glaciers glisten under the open sky. Standing in this vast world of ice and snow, it feels like entering an isolated world. The surroundings are silent, with only the fresh air and the whistling cold wind. It reminded me of the lyric from’ Let it go’ : The snow glows white on the mountain tonight /Not a footprint to be seen/A kingdom of isolation.

玉龙雪山的山顶上,冰川公园为游客提供了最惊险刺激、最令人难忘的高山美景体验。乘坐缆车,游客将直达海拔4500米的冰川公园,这里宛如一片冰雪奇境——嶙峋的山峰直插云霄,古老的冰川在湛蓝的天空下闪闪发光。站在这片广袤的冰雪天地中,仿佛进入了一个人迹罕至的秘境,周围寂静无声,只有清冽的空气和呼啸的寒风。这一刻,我不禁想起了动画片《Let it go》中的歌词:“今夜山上积雪皑皑,不见一丝足迹,宛如与世隔绝的王国。”

Glacier Park

The landscape spread out in a vast expanse of white. Glacial formations, frozen crevices, and snow-covered cliffs create a powerful, otherworldly scene. The high altitude and low temperature make every step feel like a small triumph—and each pause offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. Visitors of the park commonly experience high altitude sickness symptoms like dizziness and shortness of breath. It is recommended to carry a portable oxygen canister, which is widely available in Lijiang and at the mountain entrance and wear or rent a thick down jacket. It’s a place where we stand face-to-face with the irresistible power of nature.

眼前的白雪皑皑,蔚为壮观,延绵不绝,仿佛天地间的一片纯净无垠的白色世界。冰川的痕迹、冻结的裂缝以及悬崖峭壁上积雪的层层覆盖,共同编织成一幅气吞万里、如同世外桃源般的画卷。高海拔的空气稀薄与低温的严酷,令每一步都像是一次小小的挑战,每一次驻足,便能收获四周群峰与深谷的壮丽全景。

在这里游客常会感受到高原反应,轻微的头晕与呼吸急促非常常见。为了确保安全,携带便携氧气罐(丽江及山口地区随处都在售卖)与穿戴厚实的羽绒服成为了游玩必需的功课。在这片天地之间,我们与大自然的无敌力量不期而遇,感受到那份纯粹的力量与震撼。

As I descended from the towering heights of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I felt as though I was stepping out of a dream. This journey wasn’t just about breathtaking views or stunning photos—it was about the raw, humbling power of nature. The quiet reflections on sapphire waters and the clouds dance around the peaks both left me a deep impression. I could embrace nature closely. Standing in the shadow of the snow-capped ridges, I was reminded how small we are, and how deeply we can feel when nature opens its arms.

从巍峨的玉龙雪山缓缓下山,我仿佛离开了一场缥缈的梦境。此行的意义,远不止于那些壮丽的景色和令人惊叹的照片,更在于深切感受到大自然那股原始震撼心灵的力量。湖面如镜,波光粼粼,山巅的云雾缥缈飘逸,所有的一切都深深刻印在我的记忆中。我可以近距离拥抱大自然。站在雪峰的阴影下,面对那巍峨的山脊,我忽然意识到大自然面前人类是多么的渺小,那份无言的震撼是如此深刻而强烈!

The romance hidden between Cangshan’s Peaks and Erhai’s Shores

苍山洱海间的浪漫

Between the misty peaks of Cangshan and the shimmering waters of Erhai, Dali is a place where time slows down, and nature whispers stories of the past. With its ancient town’s cobblestone streets and the scent of jasmine tea in the air, Dali exudes an eternal charm that captivates the wandering soul. Here, the mountains breathe tranquility, and the lake reflects the poetry of the blue sky. Whether strolling along Erhai’s shores, hiking Cangshan’s winding trails, or simply sipping tea in a sun-drenched courtyard, Dali invites travelers to embrace its leisurely rhythm, where every moment feels like a verse in a lyric poetry.

云雾缭绕的苍山山峰和波光粼粼的洱海水畔之间,大理是一个绝对慢节奏的地方,在这里大自然低声细语陈述着过去的故事。大理古镇的鹅卵石街道和空气中弥漫的茉莉花茶香味,散发着永恒的魅力,吸引着四海为家的灵魂。群山静谧安详,湖泊倒映着蓝天的诗意。无论是漫步在洱海岸边,徒步穿越苍山蜿蜒的小径,还是简单地在阳光普照的庭院里品茶,游客都以悠闲的节奏在品味生活,这里的每一刻都像一首抒情诗。

Dali has a mild, spring-like climate year-round due to its location on a plateau in Yunnan Province. I spent three days in this romantic and poetic city in May 2024. The spring of Dali has pleasant temperatures ranging from 10–22°C, with blooming flowers and clear skies. The day of my arrival was a cloudy day with occasional showers. My first destination is the Jinsuo Island where visitors can take the travel boat around the island. The photo taken in the cloudy day can not show the beauty and charm of this city at all.

大理位于云南高原,气候温和,四季如春。2024年5月,我在这座浪漫诗意的城市度过了三天美好的假期。大理的春天气温宜人,一般是10-22°C,百花盛开,万里无云。我到的那天是阴天,偶尔有阵雨。我的第一个目的地是金梭岛,游客可以在那里乘坐游船环岛。大理阴天拍摄的照片完全不能展现这座城市的美丽和魅力。

Erhai Lake was veiled in soft mist that blurred the boundaries between water and sky. The lake’s vast expanse shimmered under the delicate drizzle, its surface rippling like silk brushed by the wind. As the mist thickened, the distant shores faded into a gloomy haze. In the background, Cangshan Mountain rose like a frozen ocean waves crashing against the sky. The interplay of mist and mountain created a shifting and alternating landscape, where peaks appeared and vanished like illusions.

洱海笼罩在薄雾中,水天交界,一片茫茫无际。细雨濛濛,湖面波光粼粼,如丝般被风拂过。雾气渐浓,远处的湖岸渐渐隐入一片阴霾之中。苍山耸立在云雾中,犹如冰冻的海涛拍打着天空。雾气与山峰交相辉映,山峰时隐时现,犹如幻影一般。

In the afternoon, when the sun got rid of gloomy clouds and clear blue sky showed its bright face to the visitors, the Erhai was like a dream land. Under the golden embrace of the sun, Erhai Lake sparkled like a vast sapphire, stretching endlessly beneath the boundless blue sky. Its crystal-clear waters shimmered with gentle waves, reflecting the sunlight and blue sky like a mirror.

午后,当太阳驱散阴霾,湛蓝的天空露出灿烂的面容时,洱海仿佛置身于梦幻之地。在金色光芒的怀抱下,洱海像一块巨大的蓝宝石一样闪闪发光,在无边无际的蓝天之下绵延千里而不绝。清澈的湖水泛着柔波,像镜子一样反射着阳光和蓝天。

Erhai Park

The photo was taken in the Erhai Park before the sun set. The horizon was painted with soft hues where the lake seems to meet the sky at the limit of earth. It created an illusion of infinity—a landscape where nature’s brilliance unfolded in its purest form. I always dreamed of visiting Dali. At this moment, what struck me most was how the landscape existing in my mind felt alive now.

这张照片是在日落之前在洱海公园拍摄的。遥远的地平线此刻被涂上了柔和的色调,湖水似乎在尽头与天空相接。它营造出了一种天地无限的幻觉—将大自然的灿烂光辉以最纯粹的形式展现出来。我曾经一直梦想着去大理旅行。此刻,最让我震撼的就是曾经脑海中臆想的风景如今在眼前变得生动活现起来。

When I walked on the promenade along the south of Erhai, I could enjoy the most beautiful scene of this city. Along the lake’s shores, colorful flowers bloomed in dazzling arrays, their petals swaying in the breeze like delicate strokes on a painter’s canvas. Cherry blossoms, azaleas, and wild daisies burst into color, the pink, purple, and yellow petals forming a striking contrast against the deep blue of Erhai.

漫步在洱海南岸的步行大道上,满眼都是这座城市最美的风景。湖畔盛开着五颜六色的鲜花,令人眼花缭乱,花瓣在微风中摇曳,就像画布上精致的笔触。樱花、杜鹃花和野雏菊色彩缤纷,粉色、紫色和黄色的花瓣与洱海的深蓝色形成鲜明对比。

Gazing at the opposite side of lake, Cangshan Mountain stood majestically in the distance, its towering peaks stretching toward the heavens like a guardian of Dali. Cloaked in emerald forests and rugged cliffs, the mountain exuded an air of grandeur and mystery, its ridges undulating like the ocean waves. As the sun set, golden light spilled over the peaks, casting long shadows. There is no doubt it is an iconic symbol of Dali’s natural beauty.

遥望洱海对岸,远处苍山巍峨耸立,高耸的山峰直冲云霄,犹如大理的守护者。苍山掩映在翠绿的森林和险峻的悬崖之间,散发着雄伟而神秘的气息,山脊起伏如浪。夕阳西下,金色的光芒斜洒在山峰上,投下修长的剪影。毫无疑问,它是大理自然美景的标志象征。

Xingsheng Bridge

Spanning the shimmering waters of Erhai Lake, this sleek and elegant Xingsheng Bridge connects the two shores, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Its streamlined structure and sturdy pillars reflect in the tranquil waters below, creating a mirror-like image. At dusk, golden hues bathe it in a warm glow, making it a stunning sight against the distant silhouette of Cangshan Mountain.

这座造型优美、横跨波光粼粼的洱海的兴盛大桥将两岸连接起来,桥上可欣赏到周围壮丽的全景。其流线型结构和坚固的桥柱倒映在平静的水面上,形成如镜般的画面。黄昏时分,金色的阳光使它沐浴在温暖的光芒中,与远处苍山的轮廓形成鲜明对比,令人叹为观止。

It was a short trip across the bridge to view the scenery along the both sides of Erhai. Traditional Bai-style pavilions and elegant lakeside buildings dot the shoreline, their white walls and dark-tiled roofs reflecting in the tranquil waters like an ink painting. As I stood on the bridge hearing the whisper of wind, I felt an unexpected sense of calm, as if the lake was inviting me to just be—no rush, no worries just the quiet rhythm of nature unfolding around me.

游客可以很快穿过大桥欣赏洱海两岸的风景。传统的白族风格亭台楼阁和优雅的湖畔建筑零星散布在岸边,白色的墙壁和深色的瓦片屋顶倒映在平静的水面上,就像一幅水墨画。站在桥上聆听风语,我的心中感到一种意想不到的平静,仿佛洱海在邀请我静静地享受这一切—没有匆忙没有烦躁,只有大自然的宁静。

The Bai style pavilion has intricate wood carvings adorning its pillars, and delicate blue-and-white motifs. Beneath the pavilion, a young couple posed for a photograph, dressed in exquisite traditional Chinese attire. The woman wore a flowing hanfu, its silk fabric embroidered with delicate floral patterns, fluttering gently in the breeze. Her long sleeves draped elegantly and were adorned with pearls and gold filigree. The man, dressed in a dignified robe with intricate patterns, gazed at her with admiration. Dali is really a place where love lingers in the air, where romance is woven into the fabric of nature and tradition.

这座白族风格的阁楼柱子上装饰着精美的木雕,还有精致的蓝白图案。亭子下面,一对年轻夫妇穿着精致的中国传统服装在摆拍。女方身着飘逸的汉服,丝绸面料上绣着精致的花卉图案,在微风中轻轻飘扬。她的长袖优雅地垂落,上面装饰着珍珠和金丝。男方身着一件带有复杂图案的庄重长袍,用爱慕的目光凝视着她。大理确实是一个爱情洋溢的地方,天然的浪漫融入了自然和传统中。

As the day faded, the sunset over Erhai was an unforgettable sight—flaming red and golden streaks reflected in the water, turning the lake into a glowing masterpiece. It was really a pleasant experience to go on a holiday at the lakeshore of Erhai. That was a memorable moment when I gazed at the expanse of Erhai, where fishing boats drifted lazily and gentle waves lap against the shores slowly. The soft wind, cool and refreshing, carries the delicate scent of the lake. When the darkness fell gradually, a sense of eternal tranquility washed over my heart and all the worries seemed to dissolve into the vast and open sky.

黄昏时分,洱海的落日景象令人难忘,火红的霞光和金色的光纹倒映在水面上,让整个湖面成为一幅光彩夺目的绚丽杰作。在洱海畔度假真是一次回忆满满的经历。凝望着广阔的水面以及悠闲地漂浮着的渔船,温柔的波浪缓慢拍打着岸边,那一刻着实令人难忘。轻柔的夜风,凉爽而清新,带着一丝湖水的清香。当夜幕逐渐降临时,一种永恒的宁静涌上心头,所有的烦恼似乎都消散在广阔的天际中。

Dali Ancient City

Dali is a place with rich history. The Ancient City stands as a testament to centuries of history, and culture. With its well-preserved architecture, and stone-paved streets, Dali is more than just a scenic town—it is a living chronicle of the past. Dali’s history dates back over 1,000 years, flourishing as the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom. Later, the Dali Kingdom, ruled by the Duan family, continued this legacy, spreading Buddhism and fostering a golden age of art, philosophy, and architecture. In 1253 AD, the Mongols, conquered the Dali Kingdom, integrating it into the expanding Yuan Dynasty.

大理是一个历史悠久的地方。这座古城见证了数个世纪的历史和文化变迁。大理古城拥有保存完好的建筑和石板街道,不仅仅是一个风景秀丽的小镇,更是一部活生生的编年史。大理的历史可以追溯到 1000 多年前,作为南诏国的首都而繁荣昌盛。后来,由段氏家族统治的大理国继承了这一传统,传播佛教,并开创了艺术、哲学和建筑的黄金时代。公元1253年,蒙古人征服了大理国,将其并入不断扩张的元朝。

The ancient city is enclosed by brick walls. It is a masterpiece of traditional Bai architecture. The Bai ethnic group is one of China’s 56 officially recognized ethnic minorities, with a population of over two million. Renowned for their rich cultural heritage and deep connection to tea, the Bai people have lived in harmony with the stunning landscapes of Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake for centuries.

这座古城四周环绕着砖墙,是白族传统建筑的杰作。白族是中国56个官方认可的少数民族之一,人口超过200万。白族以其丰富的文化遗产和与茶的深厚渊源而闻名,几个世纪以来这个民族一直依偎在苍山和洱海之畔与之相伴。

Dali thrived as a major stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, where merchants traded Pu’er tea and silk with Tibet and India. The Three-Course Tea Ceremony is a unique and deeply symbolic tradition of the Bai ethnic people in Dali. More than just a tea-drinking ritual, it embodies the philosophy of life, teaching that one must experience bitterness, sweetness, and reflection—just like the journey of life itself. The first tea is strong, bitter, brewed from local roasted tea leaves in an earthenware pot, symbolizing the hardships and struggles that everyone faces at the beginning of their journey. The second tea is brewed with walnuts, rock sugar, and milk, creating a creamy, sweet flavor, symbolizing the rewards of hard work—happiness, love, and the sweetness of life. The final tea is the most complex, made with honey, Sichuan peppercorns, and cinnamon, creating a mix of spicy, numbing, sweet, and bitter flavors, symbolizing life’s wisdom and reflections.

大理曾是茶马古道上的重要一站,商人们在这里与西藏和印度进行普洱茶和丝绸贸易。三道茶是大理白族人民独特而具有深刻象征意义的传统。它不仅仅是一种饮茶仪式,还体现了人生哲学,教导人们必须经历苦涩、甜蜜和反思—茶道就像人生旅途一样。第一道茶味道浓烈,苦涩,用当地烤茶在陶罐中冲泡而成,象征着每个人在旅途开始时所面临的艰辛和挣扎。第二道茶用核桃、冰糖和牛奶冲泡而成,呈现出奶油般甜美的味道,象征着辛勤工作的回报以及幸福、爱情和生活的甜蜜。最后一道茶是最复杂的,用蜂蜜、花椒和肉桂制成,创造出辛辣、麻、甜和苦的混合味道,象征着人生的智慧和对生活的反思。

This is the relic of Taihe City which is the first capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom. During the Tang Dynasty, a powerful Bai leader named Piluo Ge united the tribes of Bai ethnic groups and established the Nanzhao Kingdom, choosing Taihe as its first capital. This marked the beginning of a golden age for the region, as Nanzhao developed into a formidable kingdom that engaged in trade. In the 750 AD, the Tang Dynasty launched a massive military campaign against Nanzhao, aiming to reassert Chinese control over Yunnan. The Tang army, led by the general Xianyu Zhongtong marched toward Taihe City. The harsh conditions, combined with Nanzhao’s effective tactics, led to heavy Tang casualties. After this battle, Nanzhao emerged as a fully independent kingdom, no longer under Tang influence.

这是太和城的遗址,太和城是南诏国的第一个都城。唐朝时期,一位名叫皮罗阁的强大白族领袖统一了白族部落,建立了南诏国,并选择太和作为其第一个都城。这也标志着该地区黄金时代的开始,南诏发展成为一个从事贸易的强大王国。公元750年,为了重新确立中国对云南的控制,唐朝对南诏发动了大规模的军事行动。由剑南节度使鲜于仲通率领的唐军向太和城进军。恶劣的自然条件加上南诏的有效战术,导致唐军伤亡惨重。此战之后,南诏成为一个完全独立的王国,不再受唐朝的制约。

Nanzhao Dehua Stele

The Nanzhao Dehua Stele is one of the most significant historical inscriptions in the Taihe city. It is 3.3 meters tall and 1 meter wide, featuring over 3,000 Chinese characters inscribed on a stone slab. The stele traces the history of the Bai people and the founding of the Nanzhao Kingdom. It emphasizes the divine right of Nanzhao’s rulers and their contributions to the stability of the region. It acknowledges the past conflicts between Nanzhao and the Tang but portrays Nanzhao as a loyal vassal state. The wording of the stele presents Nanzhao as a civilized and benevolent kingdom rather than a rebellious power. This reflects the political strategy of King Shilong, who sought to maintain diplomatic ties with the Tang while solidifying Nanzhao’s regional dominance.

南诏德化碑是太和城中最重要的历史碑文。碑高3.3米,宽1米,石板上刻有3,000多个汉字。碑文追溯了白族的历史和南诏王国的建立。它强调了南诏统治者的神圣权利及其对该地区稳定的贡献。它承认了南诏与唐朝之间的过去冲突,但将南诏描绘成一个对大唐忠诚的藩属国。碑文将南诏塑造成一个文明仁慈的王国,而不是一个叛逆的军事强国。这反映了世隆国王的政治策略,他寻求与唐朝保持积极的外交关系,同时巩固了南诏在该地区的优势地位。

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple

Outside the city, the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, built over 1,000 years ago, stand as enduring symbols of Dali’s Buddhist heritage. When I was young, I enjoyed reading the martial arts novel written by Mr Jin Yong. In the novel Tianlong Babu, the Three Pagodas are not only a historical landmark but also a place of martial arts encounters. Dali is portrayed as a Buddhist kingdom, where the ruling Duan family possess the Six Meridians Divine Sword (六脉神剑), an extreme powerful martial art based on internal Buddhist energy. This martial art allows the user to project sword-like energy from their fingertips, capable of slicing through metal and stone. The script of this martial art is said to be stored in this temple. That is why I was so excited to visit it.

城外的崇圣寺三塔建于一千多年前,是大理佛教文化遗产的象征。年幼时特别喜欢拜读金庸先生的武侠作品。在小说《天龙八部》中,崇圣寺三塔(小说里为天龙寺)不仅是历史地标,也是武林风云际会之地。大理被描述为一个佛教王国,统治者段氏家族世代拥有六脉神剑,这是一门基于佛教内功的极其强大的武艺。这门武术的使用者从指尖发射出类似剑芒的能量,能够切金断石。据说这门武功的原本就存放在这座寺庙里。这也是我对这个景点特别神往的原因。

The Three Pagodas were built during the Nanzhao Kingdom as part of Chongsheng Temple, which was once the royal Buddhist temple of Dali. Despite earthquakes and wars, the Three Pagodas have stood for over 1,000 years, making them one of the most durable ancient structures in China. The Three Pagodas are arranged in a triangular formation. The central tower called Qianxun Pagoda is similar to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi’an. It is made of bricks covered in white mud, giving it a bright, elegant appearance against the green Cangshan Mountain.

三塔始建于南诏国时期,是崇圣寺的一部分,崇圣寺曾是大理的皇家寺庙。尽管经历了地震和战乱,三塔仍然屹立了一千多年,是中国最坚固的古代建筑之一。三塔呈三角形排列。中央塔称为千寻塔,与西安的大雁塔相似。它由砖块砌成,表面覆盖着白泥,在苍山翠绿的映衬下显得明亮优雅。

The two side towers were built about 100 years after Qianxun Pagoda. Unlike the main pagoda, these two have an octagonal shape and Bai ethnic architectural influences. They are slightly tilted due to centuries of natural shifting.

两座侧塔建于千寻塔之后约 一百年,与主塔不同,侧塔为八角形,具有白族建筑风格,因历经数个世纪的自然移动而略有倾斜。

Inside the pagodas, archaeologists have discovered Buddhist scriptures, statues, and relics, revealing the deep spiritual connection between Dali and Buddhism. Ancient Bai people believed that dragons and evil spirits caused floods, so the pagodas were built to suppress them. Despite multiple earthquakes in Dali, the pagodas have survived, strengthening their reputation as a divine guardian of the region.

考古学家在宝塔内发现了佛经、雕像和古迹,揭示了大理与佛教之间深厚的联系。古代白族人认为龙和恶灵会引起洪水,因此建造了宝塔来镇压洪水。尽管大理多次发生地震,但宝塔仍然完好无损,这进一步巩固了它们作为该地区守护神的地位。

From the Three Pagodas, the view of green Cangshan Mountain immersed in a sea of clouds is a sight of breathtaking beauty. Standing tall in the distance, Cangshan’s emerald-green peaks rise above the mist, their rugged slopes veiled in layers of shifting clouds. The mist rolls like gentle ocean waves. The scene is one of serene grandeur, where nature and history blend seamlessly. When I gazed at the mountains shrouded by clouds, I could not stop to have a sense of awe.

从三塔望去,苍山云海掩映,景色美得令人窒息。远处翠绿的山峰耸立在云雾中,崎岖的山坡被层层云雾笼罩。雾气翻滚,犹如温柔的海浪。这里的景色宁静而壮丽,自然与历史完美融合。当我凝视着云雾笼罩的群山时,我不禁心生敬畏。

Cangshan Mountain

The beautiful Cangshan must be another icon of this city. I can observe its grand and extended silhouette in every corner of Dali. Under the vast azure sky, it stands like a majestic guardian, draped in a robe of emerald green. Looking up, the sky is a boundless canvas of brilliant blue, where fluffy clouds drift lazily. The scene is a portrait of pure serenity and romance painted by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, as if nature itself has woven a love story between the sky and the mountains, where every leaf and every gust of wind sings a tender ballad of eternal beauty.

美丽的苍山一定是这座城市的又一个地标。我甚至可以在大理的每一个角落看到它雄伟而绵延的轮廓。在蔚蓝的天空下,苍山像一位威严的守护者一样屹立着,身披翠绿色的长袍。抬头望去,天空宛如一幅无边无际的湛蓝画布,蓬松的云朵懒洋洋地飘浮在天空中。这幅景象就如同雷诺阿笔下一幅纯粹宁静而浪漫的画作,仿佛大自然本身在天空和群山之间编织了一个爱情故事,每一片树叶和每一阵风都在吟唱一首永恒的温柔歌谣。

At the foot of Cangshan Mountain, white-walled, blue-tiled Bai-style houses stand in harmony with the surrounding lush greenery. Winding stone paths lead through the ancient villages, shaded by ancient camphor trees, their leaves whispering softly in the wind. Crystal-clear streams, fed by Cangshan’s pure mountain springs, weave through the fields, nourishing rice paddies and tea plantations. I aimlessly walked through the small trek and smelled the aroma of soil and experienced the tranquility of rural life.

苍山脚下,白墙青瓦的白族民居与周围郁郁葱葱的绿植相映成趣。蜿蜒的石板路穿过古老的村落,古樟树成荫,树叶在风中轻轻摇曳。清澈的溪水由苍山纯净的山泉滋润,蜿蜒流过原野,滋润着一片片稻田和茶园。我惬意般穿过一条条小径,泥土的芳香入木三分,乡村生活的宁静是如此美好。

Longkan Wharf

At the end of the villages, the Longkan Wharf is a serene and picturesque spot on the western shore of Erhai Lake, just a short distance from Dali Ancient City. It is one of the best places to experience the tranquil beauty of Erhai.

龙龛码头位于村落尽头,是洱海西岸一处宁静而风景如画的地方,距离大理古城不远。它是体验洱海宁静之美的最佳地点之一。

At Longkan Wharf, the crystal-clear waters of Erhai Lake stretch out endlessly, mirroring the blue sky and drifting clouds. Traditional Bai-style pavilions and arched stone walkways extend gracefully over the water, offering spots to sit and watch the gentle ripples, white egrets gliding across the lake. Here, many couples wore wedding dress to take perfect photos representing their eternal loves.

龙龛码头清澈见底的湖水一望无际,映照着蓝天和飘浮的云朵。传统的白族风格亭台楼阁和拱形石道优雅地延伸在水面上,人们可以坐下来欣赏湖面的涟漪和白鹭在湖面上滑翔。这里众多情侣身着婚纱拍摄代表他们永恒爱情的完美照片。

Shuanglang old town

It is recommended to spend one day in this old town Shuanglang if visitors spent multiple days in Dali. Known as the “Pearl of Erhai,” this ancient lakeside village is a blend of Bai ethnic charm, and stunning water landscapes, making it one of the most romantic destinations in Dali. It was my last stop in Dali.

如果游客在大理逗留多日,建议在双廊古镇停留一天。这座古老的湖畔村庄被誉为“洱海明珠”,融合了白族风情和迷人的水景,勘察大理最浪漫的目的地。这也是我在大理的最后一站。

I took the local bus towards the Shuanglang old town which is quite far from the city area of Dali. The scenery on the way reminded me of one Chinese poem ‘ 绿树村边合,青山郭外斜’. It combined a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural charm. Faraway, a small and traditional village nestled against the backdrop of rolling and green hills. The lush and dense greenery of the trees stretched along the edges of the village, their dense leaves shimmering in the sunlight, creating a green canopy.

我乘坐当地巴士前往距离大理市区较远的双廊古镇。沿途的风景让我想起了一句古诗“绿树村边合,青山郭外斜”。这句诗结合了自然之美和文化魅力。远处一个个小而传统的村庄坐落在连绵起伏的绿色山脊中。郁郁葱葱的树木沿着村庄的边缘延伸,茂密的树叶在阳光下闪闪发光,形成一片翠绿的伞盖。

Shuanglang is blessed with breathtaking views of Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain. The town’s white-walled, blue-roofed Bai-style houses line the waterfront, their reflections shimmering on the lake’s surface. Small stone alleys wind through the town, leading to hidden courtyards and tea houses. I enjoyed the atmosphere here. It is really a wonderful place where time slows down, and beauty lingers in every breeze.

双廊镇坐拥洱海和苍山的壮丽美景。小镇的白墙蓝顶房屋排列在湖边,倒映在湖面上,熠熠生辉。小石巷蜿蜒穿过小镇,通往静谧的私家庭院和茶馆。这里令人陶醉的氛围实在折煞人也,时间在这里仿佛被定格,微风吹拂,美景萦绕心头。

The feeling in Dali especially alongside Erhai was really magnificent and unparalleled. Like Manarola, it was a dreamy escape where the sound of waves, the scent of blooming flowers, and the slow rhythm of village life create an atmosphere of romance and nostalgia. Whether I was watching the sunrise from a lakeside pavilion, exploring the charming alleys, or simply soaking in the peaceful elegance of Erhai, Dali is definitely a place that lingers in the heart long after I left.

大理,尤其是沉浸于洱海之侧的感觉真是无与伦比,千言万语难以形容。如同马纳若拉一样,这是一个梦幻般的度假胜地,海浪涛声、盛开的鲜花和乡村生活的缓慢节奏营造出别样的浪漫而怀旧的氛围。无论是在湖边凉亭看日出,探索迷人的小巷,还是全身心沉浸在洱海的宁静优雅中,大理绝对是离别后仍久久萦绕在我心中的完美旅游地!

The Geological Wonders of the Stone Forest

喀斯特地址奇迹石林

The Stone Forest, located in Yunnan Province, is a breathtaking natural wonder renowned for its towering limestone formations that resemble a vast forest made of stone. Formed over 270 million years ago through erosion and geological activity, this UNESCO World Heritage site is rich in history and culture. The local Sani people, a branch of the Yi ethnic group, add to the forest’s allure with interesting folklore. Exploring labyrinth-like pathways and dramatic rock pillars was really an extraordinary experience for every traveler.

云南省的石林是一个令人惊叹的自然奇观,以其高耸的石灰石地层而闻名。这些大量的石灰岩类似于一片巨大的石制森林。这处世界自然遗产因水土侵蚀和地质活动形成于2.7亿多年前,拥有丰富的历史和文化价值。当地的撒尼人是彝族的一个分支,他们有趣的民间传说为这片区域增添了别样的魅力。探索迷宫般的小径和穿行于独特的石柱间对每位旅行者来说都是一次非凡的体验。

The Stone Forest was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007 because of its outstanding geological significance and unique karst landscape. It’s one of the world’s best examples of karst formations with limestone pillars shaped by millions of years of erosion and tectonic activity. The site is part of the South China karst, a vast region recognized for its exceptional biodiversity, intricate cave systems, underground rivers, and limestone features.

石林因其突出的地质和独特的喀斯特地貌于2007年被列为联合国教科文组织列入世界自然遗产。它是世界上绝佳的喀斯特地貌,其石灰岩柱经过数百万年的侵蚀和地质运动而形成。石林也是华南喀斯特地貌的一部分,这一广阔地区以其非凡的生物多样性、错综复杂的洞穴系统、地下河流和钟乳石灰岩特征而闻名。

I visited this famous scenic point on May 19th, 2024, during my summer trip in Yun Nan. Upon arrival of the entrance, I was attracted by the numerous stones of different forms. Despite its rugged, rocky landscape, the Stone Forest is home to a rich variety of plant life that thrives in the crevices and soil within the limestone formations. Begonias, bamboos, and Yunnan Pine can be seen in every corner of this park.

2024 年 5 月 19 日,我在云南的夏季旅行中参观了这个著名的景点。刚抵达入口,我便被各种形状的石头所吸引。尽管地势崎岖,岩石密布,但石林里也有丰富多样的植物,这些植物在石灰岩地层的缝隙和土壤中茁壮成长。在这个公园内的每个角落都可以看到秋海棠、竹子和云南松。

All visitors need to cross one bridge on the Shilin Karst Lake. It is a tranquil and elegant lake which still waters create a mesmerizing mirror effect, reflecting the limestone pillars that surround it. The lake is fringed with unique rock formations, some of which seem to rise directly out of the water like natural sculptures. There are some viewpoints allowing visitors to wander along the shore, offering peaceful spots to rest.

所有游客都需要穿过石林湖上的一座桥抵达景区。这是一个安静而优雅的湖泊,平静的水面呈现出迷人的镜面效果,倒映着周围的石灰岩柱。湖边两岸布满了独特的岩层,它们从水面中升起,如同浑然天成的雕塑一样。湖畔有些观景点可供游客沿着湖岸漫步,提供安静的休息地点供游客享受慢生活。

During the Permian Period, the area that is now the Stone Forest was covered by a shallow tropical sea.
Over millions of years, marine organisms like corals, shellfish, and algae thrived in this environment, leaving behind thick layers of limestone as they died and accumulated on the seabed. Due to tectonic movements, the seabed gradually rose above sea level, exposing the limestone deposits to air.

在二叠纪时期,现在的石林地区被浅浅的热带海洋覆盖。数百万年来,珊瑚、贝类和藻类等海洋生物在这种环境中繁衍生息,它们死亡后堆积在海底,留下厚厚的石灰岩层。由于地壳运动,海床逐渐上升到海平面以上,石灰岩沉积物暴露在空气中。

Karst landscapes are formed through a process of erosion, where soluble rocks, like limestone are gradually dissolved by water over long periods of time. The presence of soluble limestone is made primarily of calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Rainwater is slightly acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide and forms carbonic acid (H2CO3), which chemically erode the rock. Over time, the acidity of rainwater or groundwater slowly reacts with the calcium carbonate, creating small cracks in the rock. Over long periods of time, the Karst landscape can evolve into a complex system of geological features, including limestone plateaus, sharp peaks, isolated columns, and underground caverns.

喀斯特地貌是通过可溶性岩石(如石灰岩)在很长一段时间内逐渐被水溶解而侵蚀的漫长过程形成的。可溶性石灰岩的主要成分是碳酸钙 (CaCO3)。由于雨水溶解了二氧化碳产生碳酸 (H2CO3)导致雨水呈弱酸性,从而对岩石进行化学侵蚀。随着时间的推移,雨水或地下水中的酸会慢慢和碳酸钙反应,在岩石上形成小裂缝。经过漫长的时间,喀斯特地貌可以演变成一个包括石灰岩高原、尖峰、封闭的立柱群和地下洞穴等复杂的地质特征系统。

Many huge stones are composed of various layers of limestone, which have eroded over millions of years. This erosion has created unique shapes and textures, from sharp edges to smoother, rounded forms. The intricate patterns on the stone surfaces resemble layers of barky and natural folds, and some wrinkles. At times, I felt like an explorer uncovering hidden treasures, each new path revealing a different formation that sparked my imagination—some stones looked like a giant’s face, while others resembled delicate spires rising toward the sky.

许多巨型石头由多层石灰岩组成,经过数百万年的侵蚀形成了独特的形状和从锋利的边缘到更光滑的圆形纹理。石头表面的复杂图案类似于树皮般的皱纹和自然褶皱。我甚至感觉自己就像一个探索宝藏的探险家,石林的每条新路径都导向不同构造的石头,激发出我的想象力。这里有些石头看起来像巨人的脸,而另一些则像尖顶直指苍穹。

Between the stone columns, there are small gaps, crevices, and caves, some of which visitors can explore. These openings form narrow passageways and hidden corners, creating a sense of mystery and discovery. Visitors can rest on the stone stools for a while when they felt tired. Over a long time, moss, lichen, and other small plants have grown on the stones, adding a touch of green to the monotonous grey and brown landscape.

石柱之间,有裂缝、洞穴,可供游客探索。这些开口形成狭窄的通道和隐蔽的角落,营造出一种神秘的感觉,勾起游客的探索欲。游客走累了,也可以在石凳上休息一会儿。随着时间的流逝,光秃秃的石头上长出了苔藓、地衣和其他小植物,为整体单调的灰褐色的景观增添了一抹绿。

The Major Stone Forest is the main and most famous scenic point, attracting numerous visitors. It is a labyrinth of jagged rock formations, shaped over millions of years by the forces of wind and water. The limestone pillars, some towering as high as 30 meters, stretch in all directions, creating a dense, maze-like environment where it’s easy to lose yourself in the twists and turns of the landscape.

大石林是这里最主要著名的景点,吸引了众多游客。这里是一座由锯齿状岩层组成的迷宫,经过数百万年的风力和水力作用而形成。石灰岩柱向四面八方延伸,有些高达30米,形成了一个密集的迷宫般的环境,游客很容易迷失在这曲折回绕的景观中。

The limestone spires are thin and elongated, resembling tall spikes. These formations reach upward, as though they are trying to touch the sky. Walking through these sections feels like wandering through a vast, jagged city of stone, with towering buildings rising up from the ground on all sides. The stone pathways can be uneven and rocky, so it’s important to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes for walking.

石灰岩尖顶又细又长,形似高耸的尖刺。这些岩层向上延伸,仿佛要触及天空。穿过这些区域,感觉就像漫步在一座巨大而崎岖的石头城中,四周都是在地面上平地而起的高耸建筑。这些石路不平坦且多石,因此穿着结实舒适的鞋子特别重要。

Narrow paths wind through the stone pillars, leading visitors on a journey of discovery. These winding routes allow me to get up close to the stones and appreciate their unique shapes and textures closely. Stone steps leading up to the top of stones, are worn smooth by countless visitors. I liked to think deeply during my trip. Walking through these paths in the labyrinth made me think the meaning of life. Our life is like a labyrinth and we are always looking for the exit which path is the journey of our life.

狭窄的小路蜿蜒穿过石柱,引领游客踏上探索之旅。这些蜿蜒的小路让我可以近距离接触这些巨石,近距离欣赏它们独特的形状和纹理。通往石柱顶部的石阶早已被无数游客磨得光滑。我喜欢在旅途中深入思考。走在迷宫般的小路上,不由地令我思考起人生的意义。其实我们的生活就像一座迷宫,我们总是在寻找出口,而寻找出口这条路就是我们人生的旅程。

Sword Peak Pool is a beautiful, tranquil spot known for its stunning natural scenery and crystal-clear waters. The name refers to the shape of the surrounding peaks that resemble the sharp edge of a sword. It reflects the surrounding stone peaks, creating a picturesque view. It is a result of millions of years of natural erosion and geological processes.

剑峰池是一个美丽而宁静的地方,以其令人惊叹的自然风光和清澈的池水而闻名。剑峰潭因周围山峰的形状类似锋利的出鞘剑锋而得名。它倒映着周围的石峰,形成了如画的风景。这里也是数百万年的自然侵蚀和地质运动的结果。

The Stone Forest is interspersed with various smaller pools and streams that dot the landscape, each with its own charm. Some of these are tucked into crevices between rocks, while others sit in open clearings. I really marveled at these stone erected in the water, which silently create an almost fortress-like setting, giving the pond a hidden and mystical feel. It looks like an isolated environment far away from the mundane world.

石林中散布着各种较小的水塘和溪流,点缀着整个景观,每个都有自己的魅力。其中一些溪流隐藏在岩石之间的缝隙中,而另一些水塘则坐落在开阔地上。这些屹立在水中的石头令人浮想联翩,它们默默的创造出一种如同堡垒一样的环境,蕴涵一丝若隐若现的神秘感。看起来就像一个远离世俗世界的独立环境。

The whole park of stone forest is super large, and most visitors only have time to visit the Major and Minor Stone Forest within one day. The Minor Stone Forest consists of a smaller yet equally intricate collection of karst limestone formations. Unlike the towering 30-meter pillars of the Major Stone Forest, the rock formations here are relatively shorter and more clustered together.

整个石林公园非常大,大多数游客一天只能游览完大石林和小石林两个景区。小石林由较小但同样复杂的喀斯特石灰岩构成。与大石林高达30米的石柱不同,这里的岩层相对较矮小且更密集。

Unlike the more crowded Major Stone Forest, this area is quieter and less touristy, making it an ideal spot for visitors who prefer a more serene experience. The stones here are weathered into unusual shapes, resembling animals and mythical creatures, sparking the imagination of visitors. Every jagged rock peak with smooth, eroded surfaces tells a story of millions of years of natural sculpting. The scenes in this area have more greeneries and look more spacious and poetic.

与人潮涌动的大石林不同,这一带比较安静,人烟稀少,是喜欢静谧体验的游客的理想之地。这里的石头被风化成奇形怪状,形似动物和神话中的生物,充分发挥游人的想象力。每一块锯齿状的岩石山峰,表面光滑,记述着数百万年大自然的鬼斧神工。这一带的景色更加绿意盎然,看起来宽广辽阔、富有诗情画意。

The Minor Stone Forest is deeply connected to the Yi ethnic group, particularly the Sani people. This area is associated with local myths and legends, and some rocks are believed to be sacred, linked to ancient spirits and ancestors. Perhaps the most iconic rock is this stone which resembles a young woman in traditional Yi dress. According to local legend, it represents Ashima, a young and beautiful girl who fell in love with a man named Ahei, but their love was forbidden by Ashima’s family, who had arranged for her to marry a wealthier suitor. Desperate to be together, Ashima and Ahei fled and looked for their love. In the legend, Ashima was tragically turned into stone by the gods as a symbol of her devotion and sacrifice. Nowadays, the stone is a symbol of eternal love and unwavering faith which is rare in our society with fast rhythm.

小石林与彝族的撒尼人有着深厚的渊源。该地区与当地的神话传说息息相关,有些岩石被认为是神圣的,并与古老的神灵和祖先有关。也许最具代表性的岩石就是图中这块石头,它形似一位身着传统彝族服饰的年轻女子。根据当地传说,它象征着年轻貌美的女孩阿诗玛。她爱上了一个名叫阿海的男人,但他们的爱情遭到了阿诗玛家人的反对,他们安排她嫁给一个更富有的追求者。阿诗玛渴望和阿海在一起,于是两人私奔追寻他们的爱情。在传说中,阿诗玛被众神悲惨地变成了石头,作为她忠诚和对爱情牺牲的象征。如今,这块石头象征着永恒的爱情和坚定不移的信念,这种纯洁的爱情在我们这个快节奏的社会中已然不复存在。

The trip in the stone forest needs half days’ time. As the sun set and ligntened the towering limestone spires of the Stone Forest, it’s hard not to feel a sense of awe and wonder. It was indeed a wonderful place where the natural world and ancient myths came together. When I was on the way of leaving the park, I took with me more than just memories of the stunning landscape — also carried the echoes of legendary sad love stories touching my heart.

石林之旅共需要大半天时间。当太阳落山余晖照耀在石林高耸的石灰岩尖顶之际,我很难不感到敬畏和惊叹。这里确实是自然世界和古老神话交汇的奇妙之地。当我依依惜别时,随我心而去的不仅仅是对壮丽景观的回忆还有触动心弦的悲伤爱情故事的回响。

Discovering the Beauty of the City of Eternal Spring

寻觅春城之美

Nestled in the heart of Yunnan Province, Kunming is a city where spring never fades away. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its mild climate and blooming flowers year-round, this fascinating destination offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, rich history, and diverse culture. Beyond its scenic charm, Kunming is a gateway to Yunnan’s ethnic diversity, home to 26 ethnic minorities whose traditions and cuisine add a unique flavor to the city.

昆明位于云南省的中心,是一座春意常驻的城市。这个吸引无数游客的旅游地因其温暖的气候和全年盛开的鲜花而被赞为“永恒的春城”,它完美融合了自然美景、丰富的历史和多元文化。除了风景魅力之外,昆明还是领略云南民族多样性文化的门户,这里是 26 个少数民族的家园,各式各样的文化传统和美食为这座城市增添了独特的风味。

I arrived at the Kunming airport in the morning of 15th May 2024 and started my summer holiday in Yunnan province. Upon arrival, this skeleton of dinosaur displayed at the arrival hall drew my attention immediately. Yunnan is one of the richest places in China for dinosaur fossils. During the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, Yunnan had a warm, humid climate with vast lakes, rivers, and lush vegetation. This environment provided an ideal habitat for dinosaurs to thrive. This is the model of skeleton of Lufengosaurus, one of China’s earliest known dinosaurs.

我于2024年5月15日上午抵达昆明机场,开始了我的云南之旅。机场到达大厅展示的这具恐龙骨架瞬间引起了我的注意。云南是中国恐龙化石最丰富的地方之一。侏罗纪和白垩纪时期,云南气候温暖湿润,湖泊河流广阔,植被茂盛。这种环境为恐龙的繁衍生息提供了理想的栖息地。图中这是中国已知最早的恐龙之一禄丰龙的骨骼模型。

This was one photo of street view taken on the way to the Dianchi lake. There is one Chinese poem verse’ 春城无处不飞花 ‘ which means ‘Blossoms drift in every corner of the Spring City’ . It could best describe how Kunming’ street looks like. Kunming’s streets in spring and summer are a breathtaking sight, where blossoms cascade like pink falls, painting the city in soft and romantic hues. Lush trees, heavy with bougainvillea and jacarandas, line the sidewalks, their petals swirling gently in the breeze. When the wind stirs, a shower of petals flutters down, covering the ground in a delicate floral carpet.

这是去滇池途中拍的一张街景照片。中国有一首诗春城无处不飞花最能形容昆明的寻常巷末。春夏天的昆明街道景色令人叹为观止,鲜花如粉红色的瀑布般倾泻而下,为这座城市涂上了柔和浪漫的色调。人行道两旁种满了茂密的九重葛和蓝花楹树,花瓣在微风中轻轻旋转飞舞。微风掠过,花瓣纷纷飘落,为地面铺上一层精致的花毯。

Located on the northeastern shore of Dianchi Lake, Haigeng Park is one of Kunming’s most beautiful natural spots, offering stunning lake views, lush greenery, and a peaceful retreat from the city’s bustle. Often called “the lakeside garden of Kunming”, this park is famous for its willow-lined walkways, golden sunsets, and flocks of migratory seagulls in winter.

海埂公园位于滇池东北岸,是昆明最美丽的自然景点,这里拥有令人叹为观止的湖景、郁郁葱葱的绿色植物以及远离城市喧嚣的宁静休憩之所。这里堪称昆明市的湖畔花园,以其柳荫步道、金色夕阳和冬季成群的候鸟海鸥而闻名于世。

Dianchi Lake

The park stretches along the edge of Dianchi Lake. Walking along its banks, visitors can enjoy reflections of the Western Hills lying beside the water. Dianchi Lake, often called the “Pearl of the Plateau”, is the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan Province. It is the most representative scene spot in Kunming. Huge amounts of visitors came here to take a perfect photo beside the lake. The deep blue of Dianchi Lake contrasts beautifully with the emerald green of Western Hills. Gentle waves ripple under the light breeze, and migratory seagulls soar between the lake and the hills. This is the most memorable memory in my trip of Kun Ming.

公园沿着滇池的边缘延伸。沿着河岸行走,游客满眼皆是映在水边的西山倒影。滇池,素有“高原明珠”之称,是云南省最大的淡水湖,也是昆明最具代表性的景点。大批游客慕名而来,在湖边拍下心目中完美的照片。滇池水的深蓝色与西山的翠绿相映成趣。微风徐徐,波光粼粼,海鸥在湖光山色间翱翔。这也是我此次昆明之行最难忘的回忆。

Shaded paths lined with weeping willows and vibrant flowers make Haigeng Park an ideal place for a leisurely stroll, jogging, or cycling. The gentle swaying of willow branches over the water adds a poetic charm. Across the shimmering waters of Dianchi Lake, it is the Western Hill rising on the opposite shore, their green slopes gently rolling like the silhouette of an elegant sleeping beauty resting beneath the sky.

海埂公园绿树成荫的小道两旁垂柳茂盛,鲜花盛开,是休闲散步、慢跑或骑自行车的理想场所。水面上柳枝轻轻摇曳,增添诗情画意。隔着波光粼粼的滇池湖水,对岸就是拔地而起的西山,翠绿的山坡轻柔起伏,如同一位在天空下小憩的优雅睡美人的剪影。

Yunnan Military Academy

Kun Ming is an ancient city full of history. I stayed here for three days. In the first day afternoon, I visited the Yunnan Military Academy which was one of China’s most prestigious military institutions during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. Founded in 1909, the academy played a crucial role in shaping modern Chinese military history, producing many influential military leaders who contributed to key historical events, including the Xinhai Revolution (1911), the War of Resistance Against Japan (1937-1945), and the Chinese Civil War.

昆明是一座充满历史的古城。我在这里总共待了三天。游玩的第一天下午,我参观了云南讲武堂,它是清末民初中国最负盛名的军事院校。该学院成立于1909年,在塑造中国现代军事史方面发挥了至关重要的作用,培养了许多有影响力的军事领导人,这些人物在辛亥革命、抗日战争和国共内战等重大历史事件中产生了重大影响。

Often referred to as the “Cradle of Generals”, the academy trained thousands of officers, including notable figures like Zhu De and Ye Jianying. This is the training ground of soldiers in the history. Today, the Yunnan Military Academy Museum preserves its rich history. The well-preserved European-style architecture, along with exhibitions of historical documents, weapons, and uniforms, offers visitors a glimpse into the military evolution of contemporary China.

讲武堂被称为“将军的摇篮”,培养了数千名军官,其中包括朱德和叶剑英等著名人物。图中这里是历史上士兵的训练场。如今,这座博物馆保留了讲武堂丰富的历史以及保存完好的欧式建筑,众多历史文献、武器和制服的展览也让游客可以一睹中国近代军事史的演变。

Opposite to the Yunnan Military Academy, it is the Cui Lake which is one of Kunming’s most beautiful and historic parks. Often called the “Jade of Kunming”, this scenic lake is famous for its lush willow trees, lotus-covered waters, and flocks of migratory red-beaked seagulls in winter. Originally part of Dianchi Lake, Cui Lake was formed over centuries as water levels receded, leaving behind a collection of smaller interconnected lakes and ponds. During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, it became a favored spot for scholars and poets, who often gathered here for inspiration. In the Qing Dynasty, Cui Lake was expanded and developed into a formal park with pavilions and gardens, further enhancing its beauty.

讲武堂对面就是翠湖,是昆明最美最具历史意义的公园。这个风景秀丽的湖泊被称为“昆明的翡翠”,以其郁郁葱葱的柳树、荷花覆盖的水域和冬季成群迁徙的红嘴海鸥而闻名。翠湖最初是滇池的一部分,几个世纪以来随着水位下降而留下了一系列较小的相互连接的湖泊和池塘。元明时期,这里成为文人墨客的胜地,时常聚集于此,汲取灵感。清代,翠湖得到扩建,发展为亭台楼阁花园点缀的公园。

Stepping into Cui Lake Park, I was greeted by a scene of serene beauty. The emerald-green waters of the lake gently rippled under the breeze, reflecting the swaying weeping willows that line its banks. Their delicate branches trailed over the water, forming a natural curtain that dances with the wind. As I strolled along the stone bridges and wooden pavilions, I could find traditional bonsai trees and flowering plants arranged in elegant pots, showcasing the artistry of Chinese gardening. The cozy air was filled with the light fragrance of camellias and azaleas.

步入翠湖公园,映入我眼帘的是一幅宁静美丽的景象。翠绿的湖水在微风的吹拂下轻轻荡漾,倒映着岸边摇曳的垂柳。它们纤细的枝条拖曳在水面上,形成一道随风舞动的天然帷幕。漫步在石桥、木亭之间,传统的盆景和花卉植物优雅地摆放在盆中,展现了中国传统的园林艺术。宜人舒适的空气中弥漫着山茶花和杜鹃花的淡淡清香。

The gardens surrounding Cui Lake are not only famous for their serene landscapes and willow-lined pathways, but also for their exquisite traditional potted plants. These miniature landscapes, meticulously cultivated by skilled gardeners, reflect the elegance of Chinese horticulture and Kunming’s mild, spring-like climate that allows a rich variety of plant species to thrive. Lucky Bamboo is arranged in artistic formations, with intricate rock carvings, symbolizing peace, harmony, and prosperity.

翠湖周围的花园不仅以其宁静的风景和柳荫小径而闻名,其精美的传统盆栽也是一大特色。这些微缩景观由技艺高超的园丁精心打理,体现了中国园艺的优雅。丰富的植物物种在这里得以繁衍生息这也体现了昆明温和如春的气候。盆栽里的富贵竹排列整齐,石刻雕刻精美,也象征着平安和繁荣昌盛。

In summer, lotus flowers bloom across the lake’s surface, their pink and yellow petals contrasting against the deep green leaves. I took this poetic photo with super macro lens. This kind of lotus is called Nelumbo lutea, also known as the American Yellow Lotus. It is a rare species of lotus with soft pale-yellow petals. In the quiet after the rain, dragonflies hover above the water. A light breeze stirs the willow trees along the shore, sending tiny ripples across the lake. The lotus remains a symbol of purity and resilience, standing gracefully in the water.

夏季湖面上盛开着荷花,粉色和黄色的花瓣与深绿色的叶子形成鲜明对比。我用超微距镜头拍下了这张富有诗意的照片。这种荷花又名美国黄荷。它是一种稀有的莲花,花瓣柔软,呈淡黄色。雨后的寂静中,蜻蜓在水面上盘旋。微风吹拂岸边的柳树,湖面上泛起阵阵涟漪。莲花优雅地矗立在水中,是纯洁和坚韧的象征。

The birds hopped and fluttered across the park, pecking at the crumbs scattered by visitors. Some sat serenely beneath the willows, ruffling their feathers as they relaxed in the warmth of the sun. Their soft and rhythmic calls blended with the sounds of rustling leaves. There was a quiet beauty in watching the birds cozily eating together, as they were savoring the simple pleasures of life.

鸟儿在公园里跳跃飞舞,啄食着游客散落的面包屑。它们安静地栖息柳下,在温暖的阳光下梳理羽毛享受鸟生。轻柔而有节奏的叫声与树叶沙沙作响的声音交织在一起。目睹鸟儿们舒适地一起进食,享受着生活中简单的乐趣,有一种自然平和的美感。

When I walked through the street of Kunming, I passed several ancient buildings which were not tourist sites but having some historic meaning. The Confucious temple was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty and later expanded in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Lingxing Gate serves as the grand entrance to the Confucius Temple, embodying both spiritual significance and architectural beauty. As the first structure one encounters when approaching the temple, this ornate gate symbolizes respect for knowledge, wisdom, and Confucian ideals. Lingxing originates from ancient Chinese astronomy, referring to a mythical star believed to govern wisdom and intellect.

漫步在昆明的街道,我还经过了几座古老的建筑,它们虽然不是旅游景点,但具有一些历史意义。昆明文庙始建于元代,后来在明清时期进行了扩建。图中的棂星门是文庙的大门,兼具精神意义和建筑美学。作为走近文庙的必经之路,这座大门象征着对知识智慧和儒家思想的尊重。棂星起源于中国古代天文学,指的是一颗掌管智慧和才智的星神。

Confucius Temple

Kunming’s Confucius Temple served as an important educational and ceremonial center, where scholars and students would gather to study Confucian classics and take imperial exams in the history. The temple reflects the deep respect for Confucianism, embodying principles of morality, discipline, and scholarly pursuit. Dacheng Hall in this photo is the main hall, dedicated to Confucius, features elegant wooden beams, golden inscriptions, and a solemn statue of the Confucius. Many girls studying in school came here to take beautiful photos wearing traditional Chinese clothes, characterized by wide sleeves, layered robes, crossed collars and delicate embroidery.

昆明孔庙是历史上重要的教育和礼仪中心,文人学子们聚集在这里研习儒家经典,参加科举考试。孔庙体现了对儒家思想的尊崇,以及对道德、纪律和学术追求的原则。照片中的大成殿是供奉孔子的正殿,有优雅的木梁、金色的碑文和庄严的孔子雕像。许多上学的女孩身着宽袖、多层长袍、交叉领和精致的刺绣为特点的汉服来这里拍摄美丽动人的照片。

This monument near a simple street is very small but it recorded the most miserable and sore history for Chinese. Usually, people will not notice it even if pass by. However, I visited it purposely and took this photo. Everyone who is familiar with Chinese history will feel a stabbing pain in the chest when visiting this monument.

图中的这个永历帝纪念碑位于一条简陋的街道旁,规模很小,却记载了汉人最悲惨痛苦的历史。通常游人即使路过也不会注意到它。然而我特意去参观并拍下了这张照片。每个熟悉中国历史的人看到这个纪念碑都会感到胸口一阵刺痛。

Three hundred years ago, the last Dynasty led by Chinese – Ming fell when the Manchu-led Qing Dynasty captured Beijing in 1644. However, remnants of the Ming loyalists like Zheng Chenggong, refusing to accept Qing rule, formed a series of Southern Ming governments across the south, with Zhu Youlang becoming one of the last claimants to the Ming throne. Finally, the military force of Qing pushed deep into Yunnan which was the last territory of Ming and the emperor Yongli was strangled with a bowstring near the Cui Lake, marking the end of the Ming imperial bloodline. This monument stands as a solemn reminder of the fall of the Ming Dynasty and the resistance against the Qing conquest in the 17th century. Afterwards, the whole China was under the control of Manchu until the revolution in 1911.

1644 年满族人建立的清朝攻占北京,历史上最后一个由汉人领导的王朝明朝悲惨灭亡。然而许多像郑成功这样的明朝死忠拒绝接受清朝统治,在南方建立了一系列南明政权,永历帝朱由榔成为明朝皇室的最后遗珠。后来清朝的军队深入南明最后的领土云南,永历皇帝在昆明翠湖附近被弓弦勒死,标志着明朝皇室血脉的终结。这座纪念碑如今仍然提醒游客明朝的灭亡和 17 世纪反清的斗争。至此后,直到 1911 年辛亥革命胜利, 整个中国一直处于满族的控制之下。

When I read this story, I felt a deep sorrow since Ming dynasty had controlled a larger piece of territory and how did they lose? I think that there are several reasons. Firstly, The Ming Dynasty had been facing serious internal problems by the early 17th century. Corruption, economic mismanagement, and factionalism of Donglin party weakened the central authority. Secondly, the Ming military was weakened seriously by inadequate funding since the central government could not collect enough tax from local authorities. Thirdly, the emperor Chongzhen was really a poor leader and could not believe candidly in his generals like Yuan Chonghuan and every prime ministers. Finally, the fall of the Ming was caused by a combination of internal decay, poor leadership, and external pressures. In contrast, the Qing were more unified, militarily superior, and able to rule the whole China.

以史为鉴可以知得失,这段历史着实令我感到深深的悲哀,明朝控制了如此大的一块领土,他们是如何最终失败的呢?我认为有几个原因。首先,在17世纪初,明朝已经面临严重的内部问题。腐败、经济管理不善和东林党的派系斗争削弱了中央权力。其次,由于中央政府无法从地方当局征收足够的税收,明朝军队的战斗力因资金不足而被严重削弱。第三,崇祯皇帝着实是一个糟糕的领导者,他一直不相信也不能坦诚对待他任命的大将,比如袁崇焕以及各位内阁首相。最后,在我看来明朝的覆灭是内部衰败、领导不力和外部压力共同造成的。相比之下,当时的清朝更加团结一心,军事上更强大,所以能够最终统治整个中国。

Of course it is important keep a better mood during travel. Afterwards I got rid of the bad memory immersed in the history three hundred years ago and continued my travel of second day in the old town of Guandu. The earliest historical records of Guandu date back to the Nanzhao kingdom. Guandu acted as a ferry and also a linking point in the region. I liked the paifang at the entrance. It could best represent the Chinese culture. The roof is curved with eaves that flare upwards and the columns of the paifang are adorned with detailed carvings, depicting dragons.

旅行中保持好心情当然是最重要,接下来我将沉浸在三百年前历史的伤痛回忆抛之脑后,继续第二天在官渡古镇的旅行。这个古镇最早的记载可以追溯到南诏国。官渡这个渡口是当时这个区域的集散地。我很喜欢入口处的牌坊,它最能代表中国的文化。牌坊顶呈弧形,檐向上张开,牌坊的柱子上装饰着精细的龙雕刻。

Miaozhan Temple

When I arrived at the town in the morning, this historic building of unique style drew my attention. The Vajra Pagoda at Miaozhan Temple is really a historically significant Buddhist structure. The Vajra meaning “diamond” is a sacred symbol in Buddhism, represents indestructible strength and spiritual power. The Vajra Pagoda is over 700 years old. Its construction reflects the fusion of Han Chinese and Indian Buddhist architectural styles, which is spread along the ancient Tea Horse Road. The layout of the pagoda includes its central tower surrounded by smaller stupas.

早上抵达小镇时,这座风格独特的历史建筑吸引了我的注意。妙瞻寺的金刚塔是一座颇具历史意义的佛教建筑。金刚是佛教中的神圣象征,代表着坚不可摧的力量和精神。金刚塔已有700多年历史。它的建造反映了汉族和印度佛教建筑风格的融合,这种风格在古老的茶马古道上广为流传。这座金刚塔的布局包括中央的大塔,以及周围环绕着较小的舍利塔。

Many restaurants in this old town sells the local delicacies and street food. Among them the most famous food must be Yunnan’s signature dish, crossing-the-bridge noodles.

古镇里有很多餐厅出售当地特色小吃。其中最著名的美食当属云南的招牌美食——过桥米线。

The dish’s poetic name comes from a heartwarming folk tale. Long ago, a scholar studied in seclusion on an island pavilion, preparing for the imperial exams. His wife brought him meals daily, but the food often turned cold by the time she crossed the bridge to reach him. One day, she discovered that boiling chicken fat could seal the heat of the broth. She carried the hot soup, noodles, and ingredients separately, assembling the dish on-site so her husband could enjoy a fresh, hot meal. Afterwards, the dish was called “Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles”, symbolizing love, dedication, and nourishment.’

这道菜的诗意名字来自一个温馨的民间故事。很久以前,一位书生在一座岛上的亭子里闭门读书,准备科举考试。他的妻子每天会给他送饭,但当她过了桥后,饭菜往往都已经凉了。有一天,她发现煮沸的鸡油可以封住汤的热度。于是她把热汤、面条和配料分开给丈夫带来,在当场把它们混合,这样她的丈夫就可以享用一顿热腾腾的饭菜了。后来,这道菜被称为“过桥米线”,它也象征着爱情和奉献。

The soul of the dish is the scalding broth, often made from chicken bones, pork bones, and ham, simmered for hours. Soft, silky rice noodles are served separately and added to the soup just before eating. A variety of ingredients like chicken, pork, fish, quail eggs, tofu skin, bean sprouts, spinach, Chinese chives, lettuce are served raw on small plates, ready to cook in the hot broth.

这道菜的灵魂在于滚烫的汤,汤头通常由鸡骨、猪骨和火腿熬制而成,再炖上几个小时。柔软丝滑的米粉单独上桌,食用前加入汤中。鸡肉、猪肉、鱼、鹌鹑蛋、豆腐皮、豆芽、菠菜、韭菜、生菜等各种食材都盛放在小盘子里,随时准备下入热汤中煮熟。

In the afternoon, I had a trek in the Western Hill Park. The park is a green paradise with dense forests, winding trails, and vivid wildflowers. This hill is not so tall. This kind of scenic paths made of wood wound through the forest, leading me to temples and caves uphill. It was a cloudy day, and the temperature is suitable for hike in the mountains.

下午,我选择在西山公园徒步。公园里是一片绿色天堂,森林茂密,小径蜿蜒曲折,野花盛开。这座山海拔并不高。这种用木头制成的观景小路蜿蜒穿过森林,引导我上山前往各处寺庙和洞穴。这一天是阴天,气温非常适合在山上徒步。

Taihua Temple

Travelers can choose to take bus or walk towards the top of hill. However, if they take bus, they will miss the beauties along the hill way. For me, I tried to discover every point on the way. The Taihua Temple founded in Yuan Dynasty in the photo is a tranquil Buddhist sanctuary. Surrounded by ancient trees, blooming flowers, and misty mountain air, Taihua Temple offers visitors a serene escape from the city’s bustle.

游客可以选择乘坐巴士或步行前往山顶。不过如果乘坐巴士,他们会错过山路沿途的美景。对我来说不会错过探索沿途的每一个景点。照片中建于元朝的太华寺是一座宁静的佛教圣地。太华寺周围环境古树环绕,鲜花盛开,山间空气迷蒙,为游客提供远离城市喧嚣的宁静之地。

Taihua Temple is famous for its beautiful courtyard gardens. Walking through the temple grounds feels like stepping into a living painting. Towering cypresses and pines, some over 600 years old, shade the stone pathways. Small pools with lotus flowers and koi fish add to the temple’s sense of tranquil harmony.

太华寺以其美丽的庭院花园而闻名。漫步在寺庙内,仿佛在观摩一幅生动的画作。院里高耸的柏松有些已有600多年的历史,为石板路遮荫。小水池里盛开着莲花,养着锦鲤,为寺庙增添了宁静和谐的气息。

I enjoyed the gentle rustle of leaves and chirping of birds. When I gazed at the lotus in the pond, my minds were scattered like the droplets of rain sprinkled on the leaves. My brain was filled by one famous Chinese poetry: 骤雨过,似琼珠乱撒,打遍新荷。人生百年有几,念良辰美景,休放虚过。It means: After the sudden rain, like scattered jade pearls, beating upon the fresh lotus leaves. In a fleeting life of a hundred years, how many such moments remain? Treasure these beautiful times — let them not slip away in vain.

我欣赏着树叶沙沙作响和鸟儿叽叽喳喳的声音。当我凝视着池塘里的荷花时,我的思绪像雨滴一样散落在叶子上。我的脑海里涌现出了一首元曲:骤雨过,似琼珠乱撒,打遍新荷。人生百年有几,念良辰美景,休放虚过。人生短暂百年,能有多少这样的瞬间?珍惜这些美好的时光,不要让它们白白逝去。

For me, travel is like a way of relaxation after tedious work. Treasure these beautiful moments on the way of travel and treasure what I have owned is so important.

对我来说,旅行就像是繁琐工作之后的一种放松方式,珍惜旅行途中这些美好的瞬间,珍惜自己当下所拥有的一切,这很重要。

Hidden among the ancient trees and serene courtyards of Taihua Temple, a cluster of weathered stupas rises quietly, their surfaces draped in soft green moss. Overhanging ancient pines and cypress trees filter the sunlight, casting a dappled glow on the stupas. Dewdrops after rain bead on the moss, shimmering like pearls. The moist air fills with the earthy fragrance of soil, stabbing my nose.

太华寺古树成荫,庭院幽静,一簇饱经风霜的佛塔静静耸立,塔面覆盖着柔软的绿色苔藓。高耸的古松古柏透入一缕阳光,在佛塔上投下斑驳的光辉。雨后的露珠落在苔藓上,像珍珠一样闪闪发光。潮湿的空气中弥漫着泥土香气,扑鼻而来。

Perched high on the summit of Western Hills, the Dragon Gate is a breathtaking stone-carved grotto and archway. This was the destination of my trip. The path to Dragon Gate is an adventurous climb, with steep staircases and stone steps hugging the cliff. I took this memorable photo on the narrow passageways winding along the cliff, and behind me it was the inscription of two words Dragon Gate.

龙门位于西山最高处,是一座令人叹为观止的石窟和拱门。这是我此行的最终目的地。通往龙门的路是一条冒险之路,陡峭的楼梯和石阶紧贴悬崖。我在沿着悬崖蜿蜒的狭窄通道上拍下了这张令人难忘的照片,我的身后就是“龙门”两字的铭文。

Dragon Gate

Stepping through the Dragon Gate feels like walking into the sky. The ledge juts out over the mountainside. Dianchi Lake at the bottom stretches out like a giant mirror, reflecting the changing hues of the sky. The landscape seems to merge with the horizon, making it feel as if I was standing at the edge of the world.

穿过龙门,仿佛就像在天空中漫游。岩架在西山山腰上突兀而出。山脚的滇池就像一面巨大的镜子一样向远方延伸,反射出天空不断变化的色调。远处的风景似乎与地平线融为一体,让我感觉自己此刻就站在世界的边缘。

Yuantong Temple

For my trip of third day, I visited this Yuantong temple which is the oldest and largest Buddhist temple in the city, with a history spanning over 1,200 years. I liked its tranquil atmosphere, ornate architecture, and harmonious integration with nature. Located in the city center, it is a nice place for relaxation.

昆明之行的第三天,我参观了圆通寺,它是这座城市最古老规模最大的佛教寺庙,拥有1200多年的历史。我喜欢它宁静的氛围、华丽的建筑以及与自然的和谐融合。它位于市中心,亦是一个放松的好地方。

Unlike many temples built on mountain peaks, Yuantong Temple sits at a low point. The landscape here left me a deep impression. A large pond with blooming lotus flowers surrounds the main hall, connected by stone bridges that lead visitors over the water. The temple courtyards are adorned with ancient trees, meticulously pruned bonsai, and stone lanterns. Like other places in Kunming, the temple is adorned with many beautiful flowers of different colors.

与许多建在山顶上的寺庙不同,圆通寺地势较低。这里的风景给我留下了深刻的印象。大殿周围是盛开莲花的大池塘,池塘由石桥连接引导游客继续前行。寺庙庭院里种满了古树、装饰这精心修剪的盆景和石灯笼。和昆明的其他地方一样,寺庙里也种满了各种颜色的美丽花朵,尽显春城本色。

Yuantong Temple has blend of architectural styles, where traditional Chinese temple design meets the graceful elegance of Thai influences. This fusion reflects Yunnan’s historical connection with Southeast Asia through trade, religion, and cultural exchange. The intricate carvings on the walls and mutiple upward-curving eaves, resembling the multi-tiered roofs of Thai temples.

圆通寺的建筑风格融合了多种风格,传统中国寺庙设计与泰国风格的优雅融合在一起。这种融合反映了云南与东南亚在贸易、宗教和文化交流方面的历史联系。墙壁上精雕细琢,向上弯曲的多层屋檐类似于泰国寺庙的屋顶。

There is a natural rock formation located within the grounds of Yuantong Temple. Its poetic name means screen embracing the sunset. The Danxia-style cliffs behind the main hall serve as a natural backdrop, glowing in colorful hues as if the mountain itself is a celestial canvas capturing the changing colors of the sky. Danxia Landform is a kind of red sandstone formations shaped by millions of years of weathering and erosion, creating steep cliffs, layered ridges, and vivid colors. The landscape is extraordinary with the colors of nature blended seamlessly with the calm elegance of this temple.

圆通寺内有一块天然形成的岩石。其诗意的名字纳霞屏意为拥抱日落的屏风。主殿后面的丹霞悬崖是天然的背景,散发着五彩缤纷的色彩,仿佛山峰本身就是一幅天体画布,捕捉着天空变幻的色彩。丹霞地貌是一种红色砂岩地貌,经过数百万年的风化和侵蚀,形成了陡峭的悬崖、层层叠叠的山脊和鲜艳的色彩形成了非凡的景色,大自然的色彩与这座寺庙的宁静优雅完美地融合一体。

The weather of Kun Ming is capricious, with clear skies turning into thunderstorms within minutes. Sometimes it is common to see the sky being split, with half bathed in golden light and half shadowed by drifting clouds. This photo was taken in the park of Daguan Tower which was the last scenic spot visited in Kun Ming.

昆明的天气变化无常,常常晴空万里后转眼间就雷雨交加。这种天气下的天空仿佛被分成两半,一半沐浴在金色的阳光中,一半被飘浮的云彩所笼罩,这张照片是在大观楼公园拍摄的,这也是昆明之旅的最后一个景点。

Daguan Tower

The Daguan Tower is a historical pavilion standing proudly on the shores of Dianchi Lake. It was first constructed during the Kangxi reign in the Qing Dynasty. Sun Ranweng, a Qing Dynasty scholar, wrote a 180 characters couplet that immortalized the tower in Chinese literary history.

大观楼是一座屹立在滇池之畔的古楼阁,始建于清康熙年间,清代文人孙染翁曾为大观楼题撰写了一副180字的对联,使大观楼在中国文学史上永垂不朽。

The content of couplet is :

这幅对联的内容是:

五百里滇池奔来眼底,披襟岸帻,喜茫茫空阔无边。看:东骧神骏,西翥灵仪,北走蜿蜒,南翔缟素。高人韵士何妨选胜登临。趁蟹屿螺洲,梳裹就风鬟雾鬓;更苹天苇地,点缀些翠羽丹霞,莫辜负:四围香稻,万顷晴沙,九夏芙蓉,三春杨柳。

数千年往事注到心头,把酒凌虚,叹滚滚英雄谁在?想:汉习楼船,唐标铁柱,宋挥玉斧,元跨革囊。伟烈丰功费尽移山心力。尽珠帘画栋,卷不及暮雨朝云;便断碣残碑,都付与苍烟落照。只赢得:几杵疏钟,半江渔火,两行秋雁,一枕清霜。

Couplet is a form of traditional Chinese literature, a pair of lines in poetry that usually rhyme and have the same or similar length and rhythm. This couplet is known as the first long couplet in the long history of 3000 years. It captures the grand scale of the landscape, while also reflecting on the rise and fall of previous dynasties — blending natural beauty of Kun Ming with historical contemplation.

对联是中国传统文学的一种形式,是一对押韵的诗句,长度和韵脚相同。这副对联被称为3000年来历史上的第一长联。它描述了风景的宏伟,同时也反映了前朝的兴衰——将昆明的自然美景与历史沉淀融为一体。

The tower offers a sweeping view of the lake’s shimmering waters, with boats gliding across the surface. The gardens surrounding the tower are dotted with lotus ponds, which bloom in summer. Graceful willow trees hang over the stone-paved paths, their branches dipping into the water, creating a poetic atmosphere. It is a perfect place where poets mused, scholars sighed, and travelers pondered life’s impermanence.

大观楼眺望滇池风景,湖水波光粼粼,船只穿梭其间。周围的花园里点缀着荷花池,夏季荷花盛开。优美的柳树垂悬在石板路上,枝条垂入水中,营造出诗情画意。这里是诗人沉思冥想、学者感叹历代兴亡和旅行者思考人生无常的绝佳场所。

As the sun set over Dianchi Lake, casting golden reflections on the water, and the Western Hills faded into soft silhouettes, it’s hard not to feel a gentle tug at the heart. Now when I write this blog, every photo is more like a souvenir of beauty and wonder of this extraordinary voyage. This is the meaning of travel, snapshot of every moment of passing with memorable photo. Kunming, with its blossoming flowers, ancient histories, and amazing landscapes, is a city that lingers in my soul long even after I have left.

夕阳西下,在滇池水面上投下金色的倒影,西山的轮廓的剪影渐渐暗淡,很难不感到内心一阵温柔的牵动。现在当我写这篇博客时,每一张照片都更像是这次旅程的一段美好鲜活的回忆。这就是旅行的意义,用令人难忘的照片记录下每一个过往的回忆。昆明,繁花似锦,历史悠久,风景秀丽,是一座在我别离后仍久久萦绕在我灵魂中的城市。