A Slow Stroll Through Fuzhou’s Historic Heart

漫步在福州老城

Fuzhou is the capital of Fujian Province along the Min River and facing the Taiwan Strait. With a history spanning over 2,200 years, Fuzhou was established during the Han Dynasty and later flourished as a prominent port city in the Tang and Song Dynasties. It played a key role in maritime trade and became one of China’s earliest gateways to the outside world.

福州是福建省省会,位于闽江沿岸,直面台湾海峡。福州建城于汉代,唐宋时期发展成为重要的港口城市,拥有长达2200多年的历史。它在海上贸易中发挥了重要作用,也是中国最早通向世界的门户之一。

I started my trip of two weeks in Fujian province during my Christmas holiday 2024. The first impression of this place is this photo of rugged and mountainous landscape taken in flight. Nearly 90% of Fujian’s land is covered by hills and mountains, making it one of the most mountainous provinces in China.

2024年圣诞假期,我开启了为期两周的福建之旅。对这片土地的第一印象就是这张在飞机上拍摄的崎岖山地照片。福建全省近90%的土地被丘陵和山脉覆盖,是中国山地最多的省份。

The wide Min River is the lifeline of Fuzhou and the most important river in Fujian Province, winding like a silver ribbon through this city. The river also played a central role in the rise of Mawei Port, a key base of China’s modern navy, Fujian Naval force in the 19th century. The riverbanks nowadays have been transformed into parks, walkways, and resident zones.

宽阔的闽江是福州的生命线,也是福建省最重要的河流,它像一条银色的丝带蜿蜒流淌于这座城市。这条奔流的大河对马尾港的崛起也起到了至关重要的作用。马尾港是19世纪中国近代海军福建水师的重要基地。如今,河岸已被改造成公园、步道和住宅区。

The city is best known for its well-preserved historical neighborhoods, such as Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, where visitors can walk through centuries of architectural heritage. The Three Lanes and Seven Alleys is often called the “living fossil of China’s ancient city street system.” It showcases traditional Chinese urban planning, architecture, and social life from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The houses in this area are classic examples of Fujian-style residential architecture, featuring white walls and gray-tiled roofs. My trip started from this alley. Walking through it feels like stepping into a time capsule of Qing dynasty life.

这座城市以其保存完好的历史街区三坊七巷而闻名,游客可以漫步于拥有数百年历史的建筑遗产之中。三坊七巷被称为“中国古代城市街道体系的活化石”。它展现了明清时期中国传统的城市规划、建筑和社会生活。该地区的房屋是典型的闽式民居建筑,以白墙灰瓦为特色。我的旅程就是从这条巷子开始的。漫步其中,仿佛迈进了大清历史的时光隧道。

This neighborhood was home to over 500 notable historical figures, including Lin Zexu and Yan Fu. The area is named after its layout of three lanes (坊 ) and seven alleys (巷 ), arranged in a grid-like pattern running from west to east. These lanes and alleys were originally residential quarters for wealthy families, scholars, and high-ranking officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. In the photo, this is the entrance of Pagoda Alley (塔巷) characterized by a small pagoda at the top of entrance.

这片街坊曾居住过包括林则徐和严复等500多位著名历史人物。因其有三个坊和七个巷的布局而得名,这些巷道呈东西走向,呈网格状分布。他们最初是明清时期富裕家庭、文人墨客和达官显贵的住宅区。图中这是塔巷的入口,其特点是入口上方有一座小塔。

Wang Qi’s residence

Wang Qi’s residence is a fine example of traditional southern Chinese courtyard architecture. It exhibits many features typical of Fujian folk homes, while also displaying the elegance of an upper-class scholar’s estate. Wang Qi (王麒) was a prominent official during the Qing Dynasty. He came from a distinguished family of scholars and held high-ranking positions in the imperial bureaucracy. The residence follows a central axis, with rooms and halls arranged in balance on both sides.

王麒故居是中国南方传统庭院建筑的典范,既保留了福建民居的诸多特色,又不失上流士族宅邸的雅致。王麒是清朝一位杰出的官员,出身名门望族,在朝廷官僚体系中担任要职。故居沿中轴线布局,两侧房间和厅堂均衡分布。

Unlike the grand imperial gardens of Beijing, this garden of the residence is more subtle and scholarly in tone. A central stone-paved path winds through a small but well-planned green space and rockery feature (假山). Potted bonsai, flowering plants, and fragrant herbs are arranged with care, reflecting the taste of a cultured homeowner.

与北京的大型皇家园林不同,这处宅邸的花园更显精致典雅,散发着浓郁的文人气息。一条石板小路蜿蜒穿过一片面积虽小但精心规划的绿地和假山。盆栽、花卉和香草的摆放都经过精心布置,体现了主人的品味。

The presence of a water basin with koi fish in a traditional Chinese scholar’s residence is deeply rooted in Chinese culture. Koi fish symbolizes wealth and prosperity, making them popular in homes seeking a peaceful and auspicious atmosphere. There was an ancient legend of “Carp Leaping Over the Dragon Gate” , where a carp that successfully jumps a gate is transformed into a dragon—a metaphor for a scholar rising to official rank by passing the imperial exams.

传统的文人住宅中养锦鲤一直根植于中国文化中。锦鲤象征着富贵昌盛,因此在追求祥和祥瑞的家庭中颇受欢迎。古代有“鲤鱼跃龙门”的传说,鲤鱼成功跃过龙门后腾云化龙,象征着文人通过科举考试获得仕途。

Yan Fu’s Former Residence

Yan Fu’s Former Residence is another famous cultural heritage site in the Pagoda alley. Yan Fu was a renowned scholar, translator, and reform thinker during the late Qing Dynasty. He is best known for introducing Western ideas—such as liberty and democracy to Qing Dynasty through translations of influential works like The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith. Yan Fu was one of the first Chinese intellectuals to realize the importance of modern science and Western political thought.

严复故居是塔巷另一处著名的文化遗产。严复是晚清著名的学者、翻译家和维新思想家。他最为人称道的是翻译了亚当·斯密的《国富论》等影响深远的著作,将自由和民主等西方思想引入清朝。严复是最早意识到现代科学和西方政治思想重要性的中国知识分子之一。

Yan Fu’s home is a typical late Qing scholar’s courtyard house, but it stands out for its simplicity and restrained elegance—reflecting Yan Fu’s own character and intellectual discipline. The woodwork, especially on door frames and windows, includes modest but refined carvings, with traditional motifs or calligraphic couplets.

严复故居是典型的晚清文人大院,以其简朴内敛的特点而引人注目,体现了严复的性格和学术严谨。门框和窗户上的木制雕刻尤为朴素精致,以传统图案以及书法对联为主。

The old wooden tables and chairs in Yan Fu’s residence reflect the scholar-official lifestyle of the late Qing dynasty. They are made of solid hardwood—likely elm, Chinese rosewood, or Red Sandalwood. These tables are sturdy and age-worn, rectangular with clean lines, mortise-and-tenon joints. High-backed armchairs are tall and upright, composed of a single, gently curved back splat, designed to support posture and encourage upright sitting—mirroring the scholar’s moral uprightness.

严复宅邸中的古旧木桌椅,体现了晚清士大夫的生活方式。它们由硬木的实木制成,木材料可能是榆木、花梨木或紫檀木。这些长方形桌子坚固耐用,饱经风霜,线条简洁,由传统的榫卯结构拼装而成。高背扶手椅高大挺拔,由一整块略微弯曲的靠背构成。这种椅子鼓励端正坐姿,良好的坐姿也体现了士人的正直品格。

I took a photo with Yan Fu’s statue in the garden planted with many bamboos. In Chinese culture, bamboo is a symbol of the gentleman-scholar (君子)—upright, resilient, and humble. It bends but does not break, reflecting strength with flexibility. This perfectly mirrors Yan Fu’s character: principled but open to reform, rooted in tradition yet responsive to change.

我在种满竹子的花园里与严复的雕像合影。在中国文化中,竹子象征着君子—以及正直、坚韧、谦逊的个性。它折而不挠,体现了力量与柔韧的双重性。这完美地体现了严复的性格:原则性强却又思想开放,根植于传统却又积极响应社会变化。

Tianhou Gong (天后宫), also known as the Temple of the Queen of Heaven, is a traditional Chinese temple dedicated to Mazu. This kind of religious building can be found most in Fujian province. Mazu is venerated as the protector of fishermen, sailors, and merchants. The Tianhou Temple is a place where people pray for safe voyages, favorable weather, and bountiful catches. Mazu’s worship spread with Chinese emigrants, so these Tianhou temples can be found in Taiwan and Southeast Asia like Singapore.

天后宫是一座供奉妈祖的传统中国庙宇。这类宗教建筑在福建省最为常见。妈祖被尊崇为渔民、水手和商人的守护神。天后宫则是人们祈求航海平安、风调雨顺、渔获丰收的地方。妈祖崇拜随着中国海外移民而在世界传播开来,因此在台湾、新加坡等东南亚地区都能找到这类天后宫建筑。

The quiet alleys without name just allow one person to pass through and really attract me to explore. They are narrow and winding, paved with aged stone slabs, polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic. They weave between whitewashed walls of ancient residences which are living museums of Chinese urban life—whispering with the voices of history. The saddle-shaped walls are characteristic of Fuzhou’s traditional architecture. These mud-plastered walls curve outward at the top, resembling the shape of a saddle.

那些静谧的小巷,没有名字,只容一人穿行,却深深吸引着我去探索。它们蜿蜒狭窄,铺着古老的石板,经过几个世纪的岁月磨得光滑平整。它们穿梭于古老民居的粉墙之间,这些民居如同中国城市生活的活博物馆,低声诉说着历史的韵味。马鞍形的墙体是福州传统建筑的特色。这些敷泥的墙体中间顶部向两侧弯曲,形似马鞍。

Lang Guan Alley is one of the seven major alleys. Its name literally means “Officials’ Alley,” reflecting its historical role as a residential area for government officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Shaded by ancient trees, the narrow flagstone path wound between stone door frames carved with calligraphy or age-old family mottoes.

郎官巷是七巷之一。它的名字反映了其在明清时期作为官府官员居住区的历史地位。狭窄的石板路蜿蜒在古树成荫的街道间,门框上雕刻着书法或古老的家训。

Shen Baozhen’s Former Residence

Shen Baozhen’s Former Residence is one of the most significant cultural and historical site. Shen Baozhen (1820–1879) was a prominent naval reformer, and diplomat during the late Qing Dynasty. A native of Fuzhou, he was one of the earliest Chinese officials to actively promote Westernization and modernization.

沈葆桢故居是当地重要的文化历史遗迹之一。沈葆桢(1820-1879)是晚清杰出的海军改革家和外交家。他出生于福州,是中国最早积极推动西化和现代化的官员之一。

His house is a spacious and well-preserved courtyard compound. The main hall with wooden beams, intricate lattice window was used for receiving guests and conducting family rituals. Now it is used to display his portrait, biography and personal achievements.

他的故居是一座宽敞且保存完好的大院。主厅采用木梁结构,格子窗造型繁复,这里曾用于接待宾客和举行家庭庆祝仪式。现在,这里陈列着他的画像、生平简介和个人事迹。

As a statesman, he founded Chinese first naval academy, the Fuzhou Naval Academy (船政学堂) in 1866 and oversaw the construction of China’s first modern navy. He also advocated for technological reform and industrial modernization during the Self-Strengthening Movement. This photo in the main hall shows the 1871 batch of students of navy academy in their graduation ceremony. Most of these students fought for their country in the Battle of the Yellow Sea between the Qing Dynasty of China and Meiji Japan.

作为一名政治家,他于1866年创办了中国第一所水师学堂——福州船政学堂,并监督建造了中国第一支现代海军。在洋务运动期间,他还倡导技术改革和工业现代化。主厅里这张照片展示了1871届水师学堂学生的毕业典礼。这些学生大多参加了清朝与明治日本在黄海的甲午海战,大多为国捐躯。

Within the Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, there is a distinct heart-shaped ficus tree. It is a popular photo spot for couples and travelers. The tree standing against the backdrop of gray-brick walls, ancient eaves, and blue sky make it a perfect place of photography.

三坊七巷内,有一棵造型独特的心形榕树,是情侣和游客的热门拍照地点。在灰砖墙、古老的屋檐和蓝天的映衬下,榕树显得格外醒目,是绝佳的拍照打卡地。

Lin Zexu’s former residence

The most famous person lived in Three Lanes and Seven Alleys before must be Lin Zexu. He is one of the historical figures I respect most. He really did his best to help the country moving forward without considering self-interest. This is the historical museum of Lin Zexu and his former residence. He was a pioneer of China’s early modernization and anti-drug efforts. His life mark an effort in the nation’s struggle with foreign imperialism and internal reform.

三坊七巷以前住过最著名的人物当属林则徐。他也是我最敬重的历史人物之一。他不计个人私利,竭尽所能,推动国家进步。这里是林则徐故居及其历史博物馆。他是中国早期现代化和禁毒运动的先驱。一生标志着抗击外国帝国主义和内部改革的努力奋斗经历。

It is a traditional Fuzhou architecture, including wooden beams, stone courtyards, and ancestral halls. It displays Lin Zexu’s calligraphy, family history, and personal items and offers a glimpse into the daily life of a high-ranking Qing official. The Main Exhibition Hall displays the chronicles of Lin’s life and moral philosophy. It exhibits the history of Opium War, and artifacts such as imperial edicts, inks, and maps.

这是一座包括木梁、石砌庭院和祠堂等传统元素的福州建筑。馆内展出了林则徐的书法、家族史和个人物品,让游客得以一窥清朝高官的日常生活。主展厅则展示了林则徐的生平和价值观,并展出了鸦片战争的历史以及清朝的圣旨、墨迹和地图等文物。

These statues highlights Lin Zexu’s role as the founder of China’s anti-drug efforts. In 1839, Lin Zexu was appointed by the emperor as the Imperial Commissioner to eradicate the opium trade in Guangzhou. He famously ordered the confiscation and destruction of over 1,000 tons of opium at Humen, sending a clear message against foreign drug trade. His uncompromising stance brought him into direct conflict with British merchants who brought opium to China, becoming one of the catalysts for the First Opium War.

这些雕像彰显了林则徐作为中国禁毒运动奠基人的地位。1839年,林则徐受皇帝任命为钦差大臣,负责铲除广州的鸦片贸易。他下令没收并销毁虎门一千多吨鸦片,打响了反对外国毒品贸易的第一枪。他强硬的立场使他与将鸦片带入中国的英国商人发生了直接冲突,成为第一次鸦片战争的导火索。

The couplet “苟利国家生死以,岂因祸福避趋之” is one of the most famous quotes from Lin Zexu. It means ‘If it benefits the nation, I shall sacrifice my life without hesitation; How could I shrink away from it because of personal gain or loss?’ He wrote while serving as an imperial envoy during the Opium War. It has become a moral touchstone in Chinese history, frequently quoted to inspire courage and self-sacrifice.

这幅对联“苟利国家生死以,岂因祸福避趋之”是林则徐最著名的诗句。林则徐在鸦片战争期间出使钦差大臣时写下了这句名言。这句名言已成为中国历史上的道德试金石,经常被用来激励人们树立勇气和奉献精神。

Tucked within the gray walls and wooden halls of Lin Zexu’s ancestral home lies a quiet and small garden. Winding stone paths guide visitors through small groves of bamboo, camellia, and osmanthus. A central pond mirrors the sky and soft eaves, adding a sense of stillness. A simple pavilion perhaps was once used by Lin Zexu himself to compose verses or study state affairs. Nowadays most people lived in the small and limited space within one apartment. The life will be wonderful if I can own such a small garden in my house!

林则徐祖宅灰墙木厅之间,藏着一座静谧的小花园。蜿蜒的石径引领游人穿过竹林、山茶和桂花的小树林。中央的池塘映照着天空和柔和的屋檐,更添一份静谧。一座简朴的亭子,或许是林则徐本人曾经吟诗作赋或研读国事的地方。如今,大多数普通人都挤在狭小的公寓里。如果我的家里也能有这样一个小花园,生活该有多美好啊!

Behind Lin Zexu’s residence, there is a small river. This is a very representative street view of Fu Zhou. This city has a long history of ficus tree planting along the river so it is called “The City of Ficus”. In AD 940, the city Governor Zhang Boyu of the North Song Dynasty officially promoted the planting of ficus trees throughout the city. His goal was to provide shade, control floods, and beautify the environment. From then on, the ficus became inseparable from the city’s identity.

林则徐故居门后有一条小河。这是福州极具代表性的街景。福州沿河种植榕树的历史悠久,故有“榕城”之称。公元940年,北宋太守张伯玉正式在全城推广种植榕树,以达到遮荫、防洪、美化环境的目的。从此,榕树便成为福州这座城市不可分割的一部分。

The streets of Fuzhou are often described as green corridors where history and nature intertwine. Due to its subtropical climate and centuries of civic greening, the landscape is defined by lush vegetation that brings both aesthetic charm and practical comfort to daily life. Bougainvillea is planted along fences and garden walls. Palm Trees, Camphor Trees and Osmanthus are planted along wide boulevards and waterfront promenades.

福州的街道犹如历史与自然交织的绿色长廊。得益于亚热带气候和数百年来的绿化,这里植被茂盛,美观又舒适,为日常生活增添了便利。沿着篱笆和花园围墙种植着三角梅。棕榈树、樟树和桂花等热带植物则种植在宽阔的林荫大道和滨河长廊两旁。

The West Lake of Fuzhou is one of the city’s most cherished historical and scenic spots. It is not far away from the Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, and tourists can visit them all together within a whole day. Its history can be dated back to the Western Jin Dynasty (265–316 AD). When I arrived at 5:30 pm, the last light of the day spilled across the surface of the lake like melted gold, turning the still water into a mirror of warm amber. The sun dip slowly behind the distant pavilion rooftops and willow-covered banks.

福州西湖是这座城市最具历史意义的名胜之一。它与三坊七巷相距不远,游客可以在一天之内游览完所有景点。它的历史可以追溯到西晋时期。我下午5点半到达时,夕阳西下,金光洒落在湖面上,将平静的水面映照成一面温暖的琥珀色镜子,缓缓落入远处亭台楼阁和柳树掩映的湖岸之后。

The stone Nine-Bend Bridge glowed with a gentle fire. Overhead, a few egrets glide silently across the sky, their wings illuminated in the golden glow, leaving only ripples behind them. It was winter of Fuzhou, the cold air of evening settled gently over the city when darkness came. A faint mist began to rise from the lake’s surface, and the once-golden light gives way to shades of silver and soft indigo.

九曲石桥泛着柔和的余霞。头顶上,几只白鹭静静地滑过天空,它们的翅膀中闪闪发光,身后只留下几道涟漪。这是福州的冬天,夜幕降临,傍晚的冷空气轻轻地笼罩着这座城市。湖面上开始升起一层薄薄的薄雾,那刻冬日的金色光芒逐渐褪去,取而代之的是清冷的银色和柔和的靛蓝色。

At night, I tasted the local food in a small restaurant. Lychee Meat is one of Fuzhou’s most iconic traditional dishes. Despite its name, it does not contain any actual lychee fruit—instead, the dish is named for its appearance, which mimics the shape and color of ripe lychees. Lean pork with some fat is covered by starch, then adding vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and tomatoes or ketchup inside. The pork is deep-fried and then stir-fried in a sweet-and-sour sauce. The cuisine in Fuzhou always has sweet and sour taste and I really don’t like it.

夜幕降临,我在一家小餐馆品尝了福州的特色菜。荔枝肉是福州最具代表性的传统菜肴之一。虽然名字叫荔枝肉,但这道菜的配料并非荔枝,而是模仿成熟荔枝的形状和颜色而得名。这道菜的配料是将带点肥的瘦猪肉裹上淀粉,再加入醋糖、酱油、番茄酱。肉先油炸,再用糖醋酱翻炒。福州本地的菜总是带有糖醋口味,我不太喜欢这样的酸甜口。

I stayed in Fuzhou for three days and traveled a historic neighborhood called Upper and lower Hang Street on the second day. It was once the economic and commercial center of ancient Fuzhou, especially during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

我在福州呆了三天,第二天游玩了上下杭这个历史悠久的街区,这里曾经是古代福州尤其是明清的经济商业中心。

It was a key hub for maritime trade, especially along the Min River. The district used to be bustled with trading boats, merchant houses, ancestral halls, and courier stations, linking inland Fujian with ports in Southeast Asia. Now it’s a live storybook of Fuzhou’s past.

从这里到闽江沿岸曾是海上贸易的重要枢纽。这里曾经熙熙攘攘,商船穿梭,商厦林立,驿站星罗棋布,连接着福建内陆与东南亚的众多港口。如今,这片景区已成为福州历史的见证。


Today, this district has been restored and revitalized into a blend of living museum and modern lifestyle space. It has well-preserved Qing and Republican-era buildings with arched gateways, red-brick walls, and wooden lattice windows. Stone-paved lanes lined with tea houses, galleries, cafes, and boutiques. Old docks and riverfront views echoed its trading past.

如今,这片区域经过修复,已成为一个融合了生活气息的博物馆和现代生活方式的步行街景区。这里保存着清朝和民国时期的拱形门楼,红砖墙和木格窗交相辉映。石板小巷两旁林立着茶馆、画廊、咖啡馆和精品店。古老的码头和河畔景色,回荡着旧日往事。

I could have a quiet walk along the historic lanes and looked at former residences of wealthy merchants and influential families. They were built with red brick, gray granite, and timber beams, these homes have an earthy dignity. Time has softened their sharp lines, and moss grows gently along shaded walls.

静静地漫步在历史悠久的小巷,欣赏富商显贵的故居。这些房屋用红砖、灰色花岗岩和木梁建造,散发着朴实庄重的历史感。时间磨平了它们棱角分明的线条,青苔在阴凉的墙壁上早已生根发芽。

Carved lintels and stone door frames still bear inscriptions of family mottoes, trade names, or poetic couplets, now faded but still legible in the morning light. Against the weathered gray of Fuzhou’s traditional masonry, some vivid details stand out. Painted wooden panels and colorful relief carvings told story scenes from Chinese opera or classic literature. Towering over these walls are ancient banyan trees. Their long, arching branches embrace the houses, providing shade.

雕花的门楣和石框上依然刻着家训、商号或对联,虽然字迹已褪色,但在晨曦中依然清晰可辨。在传统砖石建筑饱经风霜的灰色衬托下,一些鲜活的细节格外醒目。彩绘木板和色彩斑斓的浮雕讲述着中国戏曲或古典文学的故事场景。古老的榕树高耸于这些白墙之上,它们修长拱起的枝干将房屋环抱,提供阴凉。

One museum here displayed the traditional clothing of the She ethnic group which is one of China’s officially recognized ethnic minorities, living in the mountainous regions of Fujian. The traditional attire for She women is colorful. The blouse is a black or dark blue long-sleeved top, cross-collared or with side-fastening buttons. It is embellished with bright trims, hand embroidery, and silver ornaments around the collar and sleeves.

一家博物馆展示了畲族的传统服饰。畲族是中国官方承认的少数民族之一,居住在福建山区。畲族女性的传统服饰色彩鲜艳。上衣是黑色或深蓝色的长袖上衣,有对襟或侧扣。上衣饰有鲜艳的饰边、手工刺绣,领口和袖口周围饰有银饰。

The Sui Gong Pavilion is a small but culturally rich pavilion tucked in one corner. Its dark-tiled roof is gently curved, typical of southern Chinese architectural style. The wooden beams are carved with subtle patterns and supported by sturdy timber pillars. A small wooden plaque bears the inscription “遂公亭” in graceful calligraphy. The space is small and simple but assembles the Chinese architecture details.

遂公亭,一座小巧却蕴含着浓郁文化气息的亭子,坐落在街边一隅。亭顶黑瓦微微拱起,是典型的江南建筑风格。木梁雕琢精妙,由坚固的木柱支撑。一块小木匾上,隶书书法优美地刻着“遂公亭”四个大字。亭子虽小,却简洁明了,凝聚了中式建筑的精髓。

Hualin Temple

Fuzhou has many historical buildings. The most treasured monument must be the Hualin Temple. It is the oldest surviving wooden temples in southern China. It was first built during the Tang Dynasty, witness to over a thousand years of spiritual devotion.

福州还拥有众多历史建筑。其中最宝贵的古迹当属华林寺。它是中国南方现存最古老的木结构寺庙,始建于唐代,见证了千余年来人们的精神信仰。

The Main Hall was reconstructed during the Northern Song Dynasty and is the oldest wooden structure in Fuzhou. It is the only building remained in the temple, but indeed a Song dynasty masterpiece of dougong (bracket system) architecture. No nails or metal fittings were used to build it—only timber pieces are fitted together with precision. China once had an extraordinarily rich tradition of wooden architecture—some of the finest and most advanced in the ancient world—but relatively few ancient wooden structures have survived because they are vulnerable to time, nature, and war. This temple is a small number of ancient wooden buildings remain nowadays.

寺庙正殿重建于北宋,是福州最古老的木结构建筑。它是寺内唯一现存的建筑,堪称宋代斗拱结构的杰作。建造过程中未使用任何钉子或金属配件,仅将木块精准地拼合在一起。中国曾经拥有极其丰富的木结构建筑,其中一些在古代世界也是翘楚,但由于受时间、自然环境影响和战火的侵蚀,现存的古代木结构建筑非常稀少。这座寺庙是如今少数几座保存至今的古代木结构建筑之一。

Yu Hill

Fuzhou has many small hills and pagodas are built on these hills. The “Three Hills and Two Pagodas” are a poetic and historical symbol of Fuzhou, capturing the cultural, and architectural essence of the city. Yu Hill is one of the famous three hills and it has been a sacred and scholarly site since the Tang Dynasty. It was often visited by scholars, poets, and officials, who came here to write poetry.

福州山峦叠嶂,宝塔耸立于山上。著名的“三山两塔”是福州诗意而又充满历史的象征,浓缩了这座城市的文化和建筑精髓。于山是三山之一,自唐代以来一直是文人墨客的圣地。文人、仕宦们常常来此吟诗作赋。

The Qi Jiguang Memorial Shrine (戚公祠) was erected on its southern slopes to honor the Ming Dynasty general’s valiant battles against Japanese pirates in 1562. It was surrounded by scenic pavilions, engraved stones, and historic sites. At its heart stands a statue of Qi Jiguang in full armor, framed by murals depicting his naval battles.

戚公祠建于于山南坡,以纪念这位明朝将领于1562年英勇抗击倭寇的壮举。祠四周环绕着风景秀丽的亭台楼阁、石刻古迹和历史遗迹。祠堂中央矗立着一尊身着全副盔甲的戚继光塑像,周围环绕着描绘其海战的壁画。

Qi Jiguang is a legendary general of the Ming Dynasty. In the mid 16th century, China’s southeastern coast, including Fujian, was plagued by wokou —Japanese pirates. In 1562, Fuzhou and its surrounding regions were under siege, suffering from looting and burning. Qi arrived in Fujian and quickly assessed the weaknesses of local defenses. He reorganized the military, improved training, built watchtowers, naval fleets, and coastal fortifications. He introduced a new disciplined army, including his famous “Mandarin Duck Formation” (鸳鸯阵)—a tactical arrangement that balanced long and short-range attacks. In his way, the major sea routes are cleared, enabling trade and peace to return to the region.

戚继光是明朝一位传奇将领。16世纪中叶,包括福建在内的中国东南沿海地区饱受倭寇的侵扰。1562年,福州及其周边地区被围困,城内烧杀抢掠,民不聊生。戚继光抵达福建后,迅速评估了当地防御的薄弱环节。他重组军队,加强训练,修建瞭望塔、水师舰队和海岸防御工事。他引入了一支纪律严明的新军队,令士兵操练著名的“鸳鸯阵”,这是一种兼顾远近攻势的战术。他率领戚家军打通了主要的海上航线,使该地区恢复了贸易与和平。

Dinguang Temple

Located at the western foot of Yushan Hill, it is one of the oldest and best-preserved ancient Buddhist temples in Fuzhou, Dinguang Temple. Founded during the Late Tang Dynasty (circa 904–905) by Wang Shenzhi, the ruler of the Min Kingdom. He first built the White Pagoda to honor his deceased parents.

定光寺位于于山西麓,是福州现存最古老、保存最完好的古佛寺之一。该寺始建于晚唐(约904-905年),由当时割据政权闽国国王王审知创建。王审知最初为祭拜已故的父母而建造了寺中的白塔。

The original pagoda was struck by lightning and burned down in the Ming Dynasty. In 1548, the seven-story octagonal brick White Pagoda was rebuilt at that time. The 41 meter tall tower is a striking city landmark and forms part of the famous “Three Hills and Two Pagodas” landscape, facing the counterpart Black Pagoda across town.

原塔在明代遭雷击焚毁。1548年重建了图中这个七层八角砖砌的白塔。这座41米高的塔楼是这座城市引人注目的地标,与城对面的黑塔遥相呼应,构成了著名的“三山两塔”景观。

As part of the iconic “Three Hills and Two Pagodas” landscape, Wu Hill is opposite to the Yu Hill. It is a lush, quiet retreat nestled within the urban core. This hill’s altitude is only 84–87 meters but has many cliff inscriptions dating from Tang to Qing dynasties. Tourists can visit both cultural heritages together in one afternoon.

乌山是标志性的“三山两塔”景观的一部分,与于山遥相对望。它是一处郁郁葱葱、静谧的休憩胜地,坐落在城市核心地带。乌山海拔仅84至87米,却保留着许多唐代至清代的摩崖石刻。游客可以在一个下午同时游览两处文化遗产。

Daoshan Pavilion is one of the most historically and culturally significant buildings on Wu Hill. The pavilion is mentioned in Zeng Gong’s famous essay, which is record of a visit to Wu Hill, and made the Daoshan Pavilion a literary landmark. It has a description of the scene from this pavilion ‘From that spot, the splendor of the mountains and rivers, the vastness of the city, and the magnificence of the buildings—all could be taken in at a glance. Chancellor Cheng remarked that, situated above rivers and seas, this place for viewing the landscape could be compared to the Daoist fabled mountains of Penglai, Fangzhang, and Yingzhou. Thus, he named it the Pavilion of Daoshan.”

道山亭是乌山最具历史文化意义的建筑之一。唐宋八大家曾巩在游乌山的著名散文《道山亭记》中曾提及此亭,并描述了乌山的风景,使道山亭成为了一个文学地标。原文为‘为亭于其处,其山川之胜,城邑之大,宫室之荣,不下簟席而尽于四分。程公以谓在江海之上,为登览之观,可比于道家称蓬莱、方丈、瀛州之山,故名之曰“道山之亭”。

The Black Pagoda at the foot of Wu Hill is one of the city’s most iconic ancient landmarks, paired with the White Pagoda. This tower of height 30 meters was built of blackish granite during the Tang–Song transition period. In traditional Chinese feng shui, pagodas act as spiritual stabilizers, believed to ward off evil and bring cosmic balance. The two towers black and white, form an energetic yin-yang complement to protect the city.

位于乌山脚下的黑塔与白塔并列,是这座城市最具标志性的古代地标之一。这座高30米的塔建于唐宋之际,采用黑色花岗岩建造。在中国传统风水学中,宝塔能够辟邪去恶并带来风水平衡。这两座塔黑白相望,形成一种能量的阴阳互补,守护着这座城市。

My journey to Fuzhou unfolded in the quiet hush of winter, a season when few tourists wander its streets. Though it may not dazzle on the covers of glossy travel magazines or dominate influencer itineraries, Fuzhou holds an unusual authenticity. As I strolled through its lanes, the city’s enduring identity whispered through centuries-old architecture and timeworn traditions. Fuzhou did not seek to impress me—but that was its charm. It offered me a close encounter with a place deeply rooted in its own story.

我的福州之旅在静谧的冬日展开,此时的福州街头,游客寥寥无几。尽管福州或许不会登上光鲜亮丽的旅游杂志封面,也不会成为网红行程的主角,但它却拥有着独特的真实感。漫步于巷弄之间,这座城市的底蕴在百年建筑和悠久传统中悄然流露。福州并不会让我感到惊艳—但这正是它的魅力所在,让我与这座拥有绵长丰富历史的城市进行了一次亲密的邂逅。

Echoes from the old towns of Lijiang

丽江古城之回响

In the embrace of the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang is perfect travel place where the past dances gracefully with the present. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, this ancient town is a living canvas of culture and history, with its cobblestone streets, winding alleys, and traditional wooden houses steeped in stories of centuries gone by. Lijiang’s charm is undeniable, its picturesque beauty capturing the hearts of all who wander its enchanting pathways.

丽江坐落于雄伟壮丽的玉龙雪山怀抱之中,是一处古今交融的旅行胜地。作为联合国教科文组织旗下的世界遗产,这座古城如同一幅鲜活的历史画卷,各处鹅卵石街道、蜿蜒曲折的小巷和传统的木屋都承载着几个世纪的沧桑。丽江的魅力毋庸置疑,如画的美景俘获了所有漫步其中的游客的心。

For lovers, Lijiang is a dream come true. The town’s romantic allure is woven into the gentle flow of the canals, the blooming flowers, the soft glow of lantern-lit evenings, and the whispers of ancient melodies that linger in the air. Stroll hand-in-hand through the winding streets, where every turn reveals a new vista of beauty.

对情侣来说,丽江是充满爱意的地方。潺潺流水、繁花似锦、夜色下灯影摇曳,萦绕在空气中的古老旋律,交织着这座城市的浪漫魅力。情侣携手漫步在蜿蜒的街道上,每一次转角,都能发现新的美景。

Lijiang is the historical homeland of the Naxi people, an ethnic minority whose culture is beautifully reflected in the town’s buildings. The Naxi people lived in Lijiang for more than one thousand years. Their houses typically include timber-framed structures with intricate carvings and flower-filled courtyards. The courtyards have sloped tiled roofs with upward-curving eaves reminiscent of Han Chinese design, but often adorned with local Naxi symbols like Dongba scripts and plum blossom. Carved wooden doors and lattice windows, showcases craftsmanship that passed down through generations.

丽江是纳西族的故乡。纳西族是中国的一个少数民族,其文化在丽江的建筑中得到了完美的体现。纳西族在丽江生活了超过一千年。他们的房屋通常为木结构建筑,雕刻精美,庭院内鲜花盛开。建筑体现为倾斜的瓦片屋顶,向上弯曲的屋檐,不由地令人想起汉族的建筑设计。不过这些建筑通常饰以比如东巴文字和梅花等纳西族的本土符号。而雕花木门和格子窗则展现了代代相传的工艺。

Unlike the rigid grid systems seen in many ancient Chinese cities, Lijiang’s street layout follows the natural topography of the land. Its streets are designed to flow with the natural slope of the terrain and the course of its canal network. Winding alleys, gentle inclines, and interwoven pathways are cobbled with smooth, dark stone.

与许多中国古代城市缺乏变化的网格系统不同,丽江的街道布局遵循自然的地势。街道的设计顺应着地形的自然坡度和运河网络的走向。蜿蜒的小巷、缓坡和交错的小路都以光滑的深色鹅卵石铺成。

The environment in this town attracted me a lot. It is often described as the “Venice of the East”, owing to its intricate network of crystal-clear canals and over 300 small stone bridges. Water from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain flows into the town, guided by an ingenious water management system dating back to the Yuan Dynasty.

这座古镇的环境氛围深深吸引着我。错综复杂的水网,清澈见底的运河和300多座小石桥使它被誉为“东方威尼斯”。玉龙雪山的潺潺溪水流入小镇,其水源的管理源于元朝时期的精妙水利系统。

The famous Big Stone Bridge spans one of the main canals that meander through the Ancient Town called Dayan, gracefully connecting the bustling market streets and quiet residential alleys. Built from finely chiseled gray stone, the bridge features a gentle and elegant arch that rises just enough to allow water and small boats to pass beneath. Stone slabs of the bridge have been polished by time and reflect the town’s poetic beauty and deep-rooted history.

著名的大石桥横跨蜿蜒流经大研古镇的主水道,优雅地连接着熙熙攘攘的市街和静谧的民居小巷。桥身由精雕细琢的灰色石材砌成,优雅小巧的拱形恰好能让水流和小船从桥下穿行。桥面的石板历经岁月的风霜,向游客讲述着古镇的诗意和深厚的历史底蕴。

In summer, Lijiang Ancient Town bursts into a quiet, poetic splendor, with flowers blooming like brushstrokes across its cobblestone streets. Hanging flower baskets overflow from carved wooden balconies and tea house windows. Potted blooms line the narrow stone alleys, framing doorways and open courtyards with bursts of color. Green vines and creepers climb gracefully along tiled roofs and traditional wooden beams. The brillant summer flowers of this city left me a deep impression of a living scroll of color and scent.

夏日的丽江古城,静谧而诗意,繁花盛开,点缀鹅卵石铺就的街道。精雕的阳台和茶室窗外,悬挂的花篮里盛放着绽放的鲜花。色彩缤纷的盆栽花卉排列在狭窄的石巷两旁,点缀着门廊和庭院。绿油油的藤蔓和攀缘植物优雅地附着在瓦片屋顶和传统的木梁上。这座城市的绚烂夏花给我留下了深刻的印象,仿佛一幅色彩与芬芳交织的画卷。

The canals that run through Lijiang become floral mirrors. Willows dip their green tendrils into the water, and wildflowers peek through the stone edges. Floating petals drift along the surface, carried by the mountain-fed streams that wind through the town like silver threads.

丽江蜿蜒流淌的运河,仿若清澈的镜面。垂柳低吟,将柔绿的柳丝轻轻探入水中。野花在石缝间悄然探头,犹抱琵琶半遮面。山泉汇成的溪流,如银线般穿城而过,溪流中漂浮的花瓣随水无边曼舞。

The streets are narrow, winding, but it’s the color that captures my heart first. Strings of bright red lanterns sway gently overhead, casting warm light in the evenings and glowing softly against aged wooden walls. Shopfronts are adorned with vivid Naxi embroidery, batik fabrics, and handwoven scarves in deep blue, scarlet, and purple. The handmade paper umbrellas are more than beautiful objects—they are icons of romance and tradition. The hand-carved bamboo frame is lightweight. A young woman holding a paper umbrella is a traditional image of grace and refinement, common in Naxi and Han aesthetics.

街道狭窄蜿蜒,首先俘获我心的是那一抹色调。一串串鲜红的灯笼在头顶轻轻摇曳,在夜晚散发出温暖的光芒,在古老的木墙上泛着柔和的光芒。店面装饰着鲜艳的纳西刺绣、蜡染布,以及深蓝、猩红和紫色的编织围巾。手工制作的纸伞不仅仅是美丽的物品,更是浪漫和传统的代名词。这些手工雕刻的竹制伞架轻盈灵动。在纳西族和汉族的审美中撑着纸伞的年轻女子是优雅美女的传统象征。

Sifang Street (四方街) is a living square where history, culture, and daily life converge in a graceful, harmonious rhythm. It was an open plaza which served as the center of commerce, social life, and cultural exchange for centuries. Roads from all directions meet here, making it the natural gathering point of the town. The surrounding two-story timber buildings with tiled roofs and carved eaves are classic Naxi architecture.

四方街是一个充满活力的广场,历史文化和日常生活在此交汇,形成优美和谐的韵律。几个世纪以来,这里曾是一个开放的广场,是商业、社交和文化交流的中心。四面八方的道路在此交汇,使其成为小镇的聚集点。周围的两层瓦片屋顶和雕花屋檐的木制结构建筑是典型的纳西建筑风格。

Historically, Lijiang was a vital hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and the ancient city layout reflects its past as a trading center. Roads led toward gates and plazas that were once used for commerce transportations. The urban design ensured easy navigation and security while allowing for the smooth flow of goods and people. The Ancient Tea Horse Road was a vast network of trade routes that once linked the tea-growing regions of southwestern China with Tibet and eventually extended into India. Puer tea from Yunnan were traded out and strong Tibetan horses were traded to the Chinese for use in the military.

历史上,丽江是茶马古道上的重要枢纽,古城布局反映了它作为贸易中心的历史。条条道路通向曾经用于商业运输的城门和广场。城市设计确保了便捷的通行和安全,同时也促进了货物和人员的流通。茶马古道是一个庞大的贸易路线网络,连接着中国西南的茶区和西藏,并最终延伸到印度。来自云南的普洱茶被出口,强壮的西藏军用马则被进口到中国。

The big water wheel at the entrance of Lijiang Ancient Town is one of its most iconic landmarks—a symbol of tradition, harmony, and the town’s deep connection with water. It draws water from the flowing canals and uses the current to rotate continuously. Traditionally, water wheels were used in grinding grain or irrigation, and nowadays this big wheel in Lijiang is only symbolic. Visitors often take photos in front of the water wheel. It’s also a common backdrop for traditional Naxi dress photography and wedding shoots.

丽江古城入口处的大水车是最具标志性的地标,象征着传统以及这座城市与水的深厚渊源。它从流动的运河中汲水,并利用水流持续旋转。传统的水车用于磨坊或灌溉,如今,丽江的这辆大水车只是具有象征意义。游客们通常在水车前拍照。它也是游客身着纳西族传统服饰摄影和婚纱拍摄的常见背景。

As I walked from the big water wheel, I entered the broad main street. It is a stone-paved roads, polished smooth over centuries by footsteps and time. The street is lined with a rich mix of traditional and contemporary experiences. There are tea houses with open balconies and live Naxi or modern music drifting into the air. Also everywhere there are shops selling handmade crafts, from silver jewelry and Dongba scrolls to embroidered scarves.

我从大水车旁走进了宽阔的主街。这是一条石板路,几个世纪以来,它已被人们的脚步和岁月磨得光滑平整。街道两旁,传统与现代交织在一起。这里有带开放式阳台的茶馆,现场演奏的纳西或现代音乐在空中悠然飘荡。此外,随处可见出售手工艺品的商店,从银饰、东巴卷轴到刺绣围巾,应有尽有。

Unlike many ancient Chinese towns, Lijiang Ancient Town has no city wall. It is located in a relatively remote, mountainous region, protected by natural barriers like the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and surrounding terrain. This reduced the need for defensive walls. The Naxi people, the main ethnic group of Lijiang, believe in openness, flow, and harmony with nature. This short section of wall called Guan Men Kou marked the entrance to the administrative and residential district of local government officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

与许多中国古城不同,丽江古城是没有城墙的。它地处相对偏远的山区,受到玉龙雪山等天然屏障和周围地形的保护。这自然减少了修建防御性城墙的必要性。而且丽江当地的主体民族纳西族崇尚开放自由,并与自然和谐相处。这段短墙被称为官门口,是明清两代地方政府官员行政和居住区的入口。

It was connected to the Mu Residence (木府)—home of the Mu family, hereditary Naxi chieftains who ruled the region for centuries. The Mu Residence is often called the “Forbidden City of Lijiang” — a grand, elegant architectural complex that was once the political and cultural center of Lijiang Ancient Town. The whole ancient city of Lijiang is ticket free, but visitors need to pay 20 RMB yuans to visit this building.

它与木府相连,木府是统治该地区数百年的纳西族世袭首领木氏家族的居所。木府常被称为“丽江紫禁城”,是一座宏伟典雅的建筑群,曾是丽江古城的政治和文化中心。丽江古城全城免门票,但参观木府需支付20元人民币。

The Mu clan governed Lijiang for over 470 years, from the Yuan dynasty (13th century) through the Ming and Qing dynasties. As imperial-appointed Tusi (local rulers), they enjoyed considerable autonomy while serving as intermediaries between the central government and local ethnic groups. This is the majestic central ceremonial hall, where the Mu rulers met guests and conducted administrative duties.

木氏家族从元朝到明清两代统治丽江超过470年。作为皇帝任命的土司,他们享有相当大的自治权,同时充当着中央政府与当地民族之间的桥梁。这里是庄严的中央议事厅,木氏统治者在此接见宾客并行使行政职权。

There is a tranquil garden with stone paths, bamboo groves, and koi ponds—perfectly illustrating harmony between architecture and nature. The layout and detail express Confucian order, Daoist balance, and Dongba spiritual heritage.

庭院内静谧清幽,石径蜿蜒,竹林环绕,锦鲤池点缀,完美诠释了建筑与自然的和谐统一。庭院布局和细节处处体现着儒家的秩序、道家的平衡,以及东巴的精神传承。

From the higher vantage points of Mu residence, I saw a rippling expanse of traditional, gray-tiled rooftops stretching in every direction. These rooftops are curved and upturned at the edges, reflecting classic Chinese architectural style. They are arranged tightly together, each with its own courtyard-centered home, forming a labyrinthine patchwork.

从木家宅邸的较高位置向远望去,我看到一片片传统的灰​​瓦屋顶,层层叠叠,向四面八方延伸。这些屋顶呈弧形,边缘上翘,体现了中国古典建筑风格。它们紧密相连,每栋房子都以庭院为中心,构成了一座错落有致的迷宫。

The panoramic view of the town in the sunny afternoon is overwhelming. Under the sunlight, golden light is cast across the rooftops, revealing layers of texture and age. The curved tiles, weathered by centuries of wind and rain, catch the light at different angles, creating a mosaic of shadows. The gray roof tiles reflect not just the light of the sun, but the light of a thousand yesterdays. In Lijiang, the clouds are rarely static. They move like dancers across the sky. Sometimes thunderous storm clouds rolling in from the mountains, suddenly turned the blue sky into a canvas of deep gray.

阳光明媚的午后,小镇的全景令人叹为观止。阳光下,金色的光芒洒落在屋顶上,展现出层层叠叠的纹理和岁月的痕迹。历经百年风雨的弧形瓦片,以不同的角度捕捉着天空光线,形成一幅光影交织的马赛克画。灰色的瓦片反射的不仅仅是阳光,更是无数个昔日的光辉。在丽江,云朵很少静止不动,它们像舞者一样在天空中摇曳流动。有时,雷鸣般的乌云从山间滚滚而来,将蔚蓝的天空瞬间染成一片深灰色。

Snow Mountain Academy is a place for cultural exhibitions of preservation and promotion of Dongba culture. It has traditional Naxi and Han Chinese architecture with wooden pavilions with gracefully curved roofs and carved eaves and latticed windows, stone courtyards, and koi ponds. There are inscriptions of Dongba symbols and poetic couplets on the entrance.

雪山书院是保护和弘扬东巴文化的文化展览场所。书院拥有纳西族和汉族传统建筑风格,包括木结构凉亭、优美的弧形屋顶、雕花屋檐和格子窗、石砌庭院和锦鲤池。入口处刻有东巴文字和对联。

Small pavilions scattered throughout Lijiang Ancient Town. They are typical Chinese architecture elements. They have intricate wooden latticework, carved with floral patterns like phoenixes and red columns and painted beams, with calligraphy quoting poetry. Many are open on all sides, allowing gentle breezes to pass through and refreshing the visitors.

丽江古城里散落着许多小亭阁,它们是典型的中式建筑元素。亭阁拥有精致的木格,雕刻着凤凰等花卉图案,红色的柱子和彩绘的横梁上还刻有诗句和书法。亭阁四面敞开,微风轻拂,令人心旷神怡。

In Lijiang, I always found this traditional water system called The Three-Eyed Well. It consists of three connected stone basins or wells that are arranged in a tiered system. Spring water flows from the uppermost well to the lowest. Top basin contains drinking water and is reserved strictly for drinking and cooking, ensuring the cleanest, freshest water being protected. Middle basin is used for washing vegetables and rice. The water comes directly from the top and flows out again, it remains relatively clean. The bottom level was used for washing clothes or cleaning items, where the water, now used multiple times, would finally exit the system.

在丽江,我总能发现一种名为“三眼井”的传统水利系统。它由三个相连的石盆或井组成,呈阶梯状排列。泉水从最上层的井流到最底层。最上层的石盆盛有饮用水,仅供饮用和烹饪,以确保水源保持最洁净、最新鲜的状态。中间的石盆用于洗菜和洗米。水直接从顶层流出,进入中层后保持相对洁净。底层用于洗衣服或清洁物品,水经过多次使用后,最终会从石盆底部流出整个系统。

Shuhe Old Town is one of the three old towns in Lijiang worthy of visit. It was one of the earliest Naxi settlements in the Lijiang area, dating back more than 1,000 years. It was once a vital stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, that linked Yunnan with Tibet. This town has lush greenery of cypress and camphor trees.

束河古镇是丽江值得一游的三座古镇之一。它是丽江地区最早的纳西族聚居地,距今已有一千多年历史。它曾是连接云南和西藏的茶马古道上的重要驿站。古镇上柏树和樟树繁茂茂盛,绿树成荫。

Shuhe retains its original village charm, with stone-paved lanes that wind through traditional Naxi courtyard homes. There are clear canals running through small stone bridges, fed by mountain spring water. In one unnoticed corner, I found some sculpted animal heads—of oxen, horses, dragons, and tigers. The twelve Chinese zodiac animal heads are sculpted with fine attention to detail. They represent the Chinese cultural heritage.

束河保留着原始的村落韵味,石板小巷蜿蜒穿过传统的纳西式庭院。清澈由山泉滋润的溪水流经小石桥。在一个不起眼的角落里,我看到了一些牛、马、龙和虎的兽首雕塑。这些十二生肖兽首雕塑细节精致,代表着中华文化遗产。

Water is the soul of Shuhe. The town is laced with fresh mountain springs and gentle canals, which flow from the nearby mountains and provide life to the land and people. The Qinglong River and a network of small canals run through the town, and water accumulated in the Nine Tripod Dragon Pool in this photo. The water is remarkably clear, with a deep jade-green hue, reflecting the sky and surrounding trees like a perfect mirror.

水是束河的灵魂。小镇遍布清澈的山泉和蜿蜒的运河,它们从附近的群山中流淌而出,为这片土地和人民提供生机。青龙河和纵横交错的小运河贯穿全镇,照片中的九鼎龙潭汇聚了丰富的水量。潭水清澈见底,呈现出深邃的碧绿,如同一面完美的镜子,映照着天空和周围的树木。

I enjoyed the feeling of walking along the cobbled street. The surface was smooth from centuries of footsteps, yet still retained the natural texture and rhythm of each stone. On sunny days, the cobblestones glisten softly. They were telling the long story of this city. These streets have guided caravans of horses, carried pilgrims and poets, and today, lead visitors like me.

我享受着沿着鹅卵石街道漫步的感觉。这些路面因数百年的磨损而变得光滑,却依然保留着每块石头的自然纹理和韵律。阳光明媚的日子里,鹅卵石泛着柔和的光泽。它们诉说着这座城市悠久的历史。这些街道曾引领着马队,承载着朝圣者和吟游诗人的希望,如今引领着像我这样的游客一路向前。

Similar to the towns (Eguisheim) I have visited in France, the timber walls of old houses are adorned with an enchanting array of climbing plants and blooming flowers. Creeper plants and grapevines twist gracefully up stone and brick walls. The combination of floral color, carved window frames, and creeping green creates a storybook atmosphere.

与我去过的法国小镇埃吉桑相似,老房子的木墙上装饰着各种迷人的攀缘植物和盛开的鲜花。攀缘植物和葡萄藤优雅地盘绕在石砖墙上。色彩缤纷的花卉、雕花窗框和蔓生植物的组合,营造出一种童话般的氛围。

The Baisha ancient town was a peaceful town in the north of Li Jiang. The town’s buildings are made of mud bricks, timber, and stone, featuring whitewashed walls, grey rooftiles, and Naxi-style wooden carvings. Unlike more commercial towns, Baisha retains an authentic, almost rustic character—every weathered beam and faded wall tells a story. It is less touristy, making it ideal for travelers seeking a more immersive experience.

白沙是丽江北部一个安静的小镇。古镇的建筑由泥砖、木材和石材构成,白墙黛瓦,还有纳西风格的木雕。与商业气息浓厚的其他城镇不同,白沙古镇保留着一种近乎质朴的原始风貌——每一根饱经风霜的梁柱和每一面褪色的墙壁都诉说着一个个故事。这里游客较少,非常适合寻求沉浸式体验的游客。

Located at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, this town is a place where time lingers gently and tradition breathes in every small lane. I felt unhurried and myself seemed to be wrapped in the cool breath of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The morning is tranquil, with soft light spilling across stone paths, roosters calling in the distance. Elderly Naxi women in traditional blue garments sit by doorways, chatting quietly beneath overhanging eaves.

这座小镇就坐落在玉龙雪山脚下,时光静静地流淌,每条小巷都弥漫着传统的气息。我感觉自己仿佛置身于玉龙雪山清凉的气息之中,悠闲自在。清晨宁静祥和,柔和的阳光洒落在石板路上,远处传来公鸡的鸣叫。身着传统蓝色服饰的纳西族老妇人坐在门边,在屋檐下轻声交谈。

I noticed some traditional houses of courtyard in this town. During the day, warm light and shadow dance across the walls, and in the evening, red lanterns cast a soft glow over the polished stones. The doorway features stone or brick inlays at the base, with engraved patterns of waves, clouds, and animals to ward off bad luck. Flower pots and stone lions are set up along the doorway. The paintings on wooden doors flanking the entrance represents the god of doorways and are designed to welcome good fortune and ward off evil. If traveller has free time, it is a good choice to stay in this town for several days experiencing the Naxi life here.

我在这座小镇里看到了一些传统的院落民居。白天,温暖的阳光投撒在墙上;夜晚,红灯笼在光滑的石柱上投下柔和的光芒。门框底部嵌有石块或砖块,上面雕刻着海浪、云朵和动物的图案,以驱除厄运。门边摆放着花盆和石狮。入口两侧的木门上画着门神,象征着招财辟邪。如果游客时间充裕,在这个小镇住上几天,体验一下纳西族的生活,亦是个不错的选择。

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lijiang Ancient Town consists of four key parts, three ancient towns Dayan, Baisha, and Shuhe, and the ancient water system called Black Dragon Pool. The park of Black Dragon Pool was the last place I visited in Lijiang. The pool is fed by springs from the foot of Elephant Hill and serves as the headwaters of Lijiang’s ancient canal system, which winds through Dayan Old Town. The elegant white marble bridge arcs across the water drew my attention. Towering in the horizontal of sky, the snow-covered ridges gleamed silver under the sun.

丽江古城被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产,由四个主要部分组成:大研、白沙和束河三个古镇,以及名为黑龙潭的古老水系。黑龙潭公园是我在丽江的最后一站。黑龙潭的水源来自象山脚下的泉水,是丽江古运河的源头,蜿蜒流经大研古镇。优雅的白色大理石桥横跨水面,吸引了我的目光。白雪皑皑的山脊高耸入云,在阳光下闪着银光。

Surrounded by willows, cypress trees, and seasonal blooms, the park is a haven for travelers seeking tranquility. The greenery creates picturesque scenes against the backdrop of traditional architecture. The mirror-like surface reflects the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, creating a postcard scene.

公园四周柳树、柏树环绕,四季鲜花盛开,是寻求宁静的游客的世外桃源。绿树成荫,在传统古建筑的映衬下,构成了如画的风景。镜面般的湖面倒映着雄伟的玉龙雪山,宛如明信片上的风景。

There is a museum here displaying the Naxi script of Dongba characters. They are pictographs and ideographs—symbols that visually represent ideas, objects, and actions. Each symbol can represent a word, a sound, or a meaning. Although no one use these characters now, they are cultural heritage of this land, and were used to pass down religious stories and cosmology.

这里有一座博物馆,展示纳西文字——东巴文。它们是象形和表意文字,用符号直观地表达思想、物体和行为。每个符号可以代表一个词、一个声音或一个含义。虽然如今已无人使用这些文字,但它们是这片土地的文化遗产,曾被用来传承纳西人的宗教故事和宇宙观。

I have stayed in Lijiang for three days. As I took my final steps of the ancient town, the echoes of rushing water and soft chimes from wind bells lingered in my heart like the fading notes of an old melody. In these days, I lost time among the painted doorways, the fragrance of fresh flowers and the cobbled ancient streets. As I left, I carried the lingering memories with me like a lantern glowing softly long after the sun has set.

我在丽江总计待了三天。当我踏上古城的最后一段旅程时,潺潺的流水声和轻柔的风铃声如同一首古老旋律萦绕在我的心头。这些日子里,我迷失在彩绘门楼、鲜花的芬芳和古老的鹅卵石街道之间久久不能自拔。离开时这些挥之不去的回忆就如同一盏在日落后依然柔和发光的灯火一般依然熠熠生辉。

Tracing Northern Wei History in Datong

古都大同追忆北魏历史

From 398 to 494 CE, Datong (known as Pingcheng) served as the capital of the Northern Wei dynasty. The dynasty, established by the Xianbei, a nomadic group from the northern steppes, chose Datong due to its strategic location, which provided a stronghold for military and administrative control. Pingcheng’s cosmopolitan atmosphere helped foster cultural integration between the nomadic Xianbei people and the settled Han Chinese population. Under the Northern Wei, Datong developed into a well-planned and fortified city. It holds numerous cultural and historical relics that showcase fully the grandeur of the dynasty.

在公元 398 年至 494 年期间,大同(即曾经的平城)一直是北魏的都城。北魏由来自北方草原的游牧民族鲜卑族建立,他们因为其战略位置优越而选择大同作为军事和行政中心。历史上的平城的国际化氛围浓厚,也促进了游牧的鲜卑人和居有其所的汉族人之间的文化融合。在北魏统治下,大同发展成为一座规划完善、防御坚固的都城。这里拥有众多文化和历史遗迹,充分展现了北魏王朝当年的辉煌。

The Mingtang, or “Hall of Light,” was a structure rooted in ancient Chinese cosmology, symbolizing the emperor’s divine authority as the “Son of Heaven”. It served as a ritual space for major ceremonies, including seasonal sacrifices, state proclamations, and imperial gatherings. The Mingtang was also a symbol of harmony between Heaven, Earth, and humanity. The building in the photo was a replica of the Mingtang located at the Mingtang relic park in Da tong.

明堂是中国古代宇宙观的象征,代表着皇帝作为天子的神圣权威。它是举行包括季节性祭祀、昭告天下和皇室集会等重大仪式的场所。明堂也是天地人和谐的象征。照片中的建筑是位于大同明堂遗址公园的明堂复制品。

In the context of famous poem ‘The Ballad of Mulan’, there is one sentence (归来见天子,天子坐明堂) describing Mulan meeting the emperor in the Mingtang after her victorious military service. Mulan is a well-known heroine portrayed as a devoted daughter who disguised herself as a man to take her elderly father’s place in the army of North Wei against the Rouran Khaganate. She is also the character in the Disney animated film. Mulan’s decision to join the army replacing his father exemplifies Confucian values of filial piety. Every Chinese student learnt this poem in the secondary school.

在著名诗歌《木兰辞》中,有一句诗 “归来见天子,天子坐明堂”描述了木兰在获得赫赫战功后在明堂会见皇帝的情景。花木兰是一位耳熟能详的巾帼英雄,《木兰辞》根据她的事迹描绘了这位孝顺的女儿女扮男装代替年迈的父亲加入北魏军队,对抗柔然汗国的故事。她也是迪士尼动画电影木兰中的女主角。木兰决定代父参军,体现了儒家思想孝的价值观。每位中国学生都曾在中学阶段都学过这首诗。

I visited this ancient city on July 7 2023 starting from the city wall. It was my last stop of my trip in Shanxi province. Datong served as the Northern Wei old capital and its city walls followed traditional Chinese fortification designs, influenced by earlier Han dynasty models. Like the walls of other cities, the walls were constructed using rammed earth. As I traveled around it, I found that they were equipped with watchtowers at regular intervals for surveillance and signaling and moats surrounding the walls to enhance defense.

2023 年 7 月 7 日,我从大同城墙开始参观了这座古城。这也是我山西之旅的最后一站。大同是北魏古都,其城墙遵循自早期汉朝以来中国传统的防御工事设计。与其他城市一样,这种城墙也是用夯土建造的。在城内游览时,我还发现城墙每隔一段距离就设有瞭望塔,用于监视敌军和发信号,城墙周围还设有护城河,以加强防御。

The Wild Goose Pagoda on the southeast wall of Datong Ancient City is a remarkable structure. Although less well-known than its counterpart in Xi’an, this pagoda is an essential feature of Datong’s urban and spiritual history. Datong was a major center of Buddhism during the Northern Wei Dynasty. Pagodas like this were often built to enshrine Buddhist relics and scriptures. It is a multi-tiered tower, with diminishing levels as it rises, creating a tapered and elegant silhouette. It is weird that the tower is positioned on the city wall. I guess that it might act as a watchtower, providing a vantage point to monitor the surrounding area.

古城东南城墙上的雁塔是一座引人注目的建筑。虽然它不如西安的大雁塔那么出名,但它是大同城市和历史的重要地标。大同在北魏时期是佛教的中心。像这样的宝塔通常是为了供奉佛教遗物和经文而建造的。它是一座多层塔,随着高度的增加,塔的层数逐渐减少,形成了一个锥形而优雅的轮廓。这座塔然而位于城墙上,这种设计的确诡异。我猜它极有可能是一个瞭望塔,便于士兵寻视周边区域。

Datong’s current main gate, part of the city wall was rebuilt during the Ming Dynasty. The well-fortified dark colored sturdy city gate under the blue sky seemed to tell the story of thousand years. As the primary entrance to the Northern Wei capital, the gate would have symbolized the dynasty’s authority and connection to both the military frontier and the imperial heartland.

For history lover, the battle of Canhe Bei must be mentioned. It was a pivotal battle that took place in 395 CE between the Northern Wei and the Later Yan near Da Tong. The leader of North Wei Tuoba Gui used clever tactics to lure the Later Yan forces into a vulnerable position. He feigned a retreat, drawing the Yan forces into an ambush. The Northern Wei cavalry encircled and annihilated the Yan army. The Later Yan suffered a devastating defeat, with tens of thousands of soldiers killed or captured. The victory solidified the Northern Wei’s dominance and helped them unify northern China.

图中是大同现在的主城门,这部分城墙的是明代重建的。苍天下,坚固的深色城门似乎在诉说着千年的历史故事。作为北魏首都的主入口,这座城门象征着王朝的权威以及与边疆和帝国中心地带的联系。

对于历史爱好者来说,北魏参合陂之战不得不提。这是公元395年北魏与后燕在大同附近发生的一场关键之战。北魏首领拓跋珪运用巧妙的战术,诱使后燕军队陷入被动。他佯退后引燕军进入埋伏。北魏骑兵之后围歼燕军。后燕遭到惨败,士兵被杀或被俘数万。这次胜利巩固了北魏的统治地位,帮助他们后来统一了中国北方。

Entering the city wall, visitors can observe the paifang at Wuding Street at the first glimpse. Constructed from stone and wood, it was intricately carved, showcasing traditional Chinese craftsmanship. The paifang featured a three-tiered design, with one large central passage flanked by two smaller ones. The roof sections exhibit upturned eaves, characteristic of Chinese architecture, with decorative elements such as dragons, phoenixes, or floral motifs. The paifang reflects the Confucian values of reverence and respect in Chinese culture.

进入城墙内,游客首先看到的是武定街的牌坊。牌坊由石头和木材建造而成,雕刻精美,展现了中国传统工艺。牌坊采用三层设计,中间有一个大通道,两侧有两个较小的通道。屋顶部分呈现中国建筑的典型飞檐,并带有龙、凤或花卉等装饰元素。牌坊反映了中国文化中对儒家尊重的价值观。

There are many historical buildings in the city center that represent the rich history of this city. One of the most iconic buildings must be the Kui Star Pavilion. In Chinese culture, the Kui star is a Taoist deity associated with scholarly success and is often depicted as a celestial figure helping students excel in the imperial examination system. This building was likely constructed during the Ming or Qing Dynasty. Da Tong was a city with a deep cultural and historical legacy. In ancient China, success in the civil service examinations was a pathway to social prestige. This building was built to inspire scholars preparing for the imperial exams.

大同古城中心有许多历史建筑,代表着这座城市丰富的历史。其中最具标志性的建筑之一是奎星阁。在中国文化中,奎星是与学术成功有关的道教神灵,经常被描绘成帮助学生在科举制度中取得优异成绩的天神。图中这座建筑奎星阁很可能建于明朝或清朝。大同是一座拥有深厚文化和历史遗产的城市。在中国古代,科举考试成功是获得社会声望的重要途径。这座建筑在古代是为了激励准备科举考试的学子而建造的。

The most famous architectural relics of this city must be the Nine-Dragon Screen. It is one of the only three existing Nine-Dragon Screens in China, alongside those in the Forbidden City and Beihai Park in Beijing. The Nine-Dragon Screen in Datong was constructed in 1392 CE, during the early Ming Dynasty, as part of a palace complex. It was built as a spirit screen to block evil spirits from entering through the main gate, as per traditional Chinese architectural principles. There are totally nine well decorated coiled dragons, each distinct in posture, expression, and color (yellow, blue, white, and green). The dragons are surrounded by clouds, waves, and mountains, symbolizing imperial power, prosperity, and good fortune in Chinese culture. People came here to take a photo and wish to obtain good fortune from the dragons.

大同最著名的历史遗迹当属九龙壁了。它是中国现存的三座九龙壁之一,另外两座位于北京故宫和北海公园。大同九龙壁建于公元 1392 年,是明初宫殿建筑群的一部分。它按照中国传统建筑风水建造,作用是防止恶灵从大门进入。壁上九条盘龙装饰精美,每条龙的姿势、表情和颜色(主要是黄蓝白和绿色)都各不相同。龙周围环绕着云朵、海浪和山脉,在中国文化中象征着皇权、繁荣和好运。各地游人纷纷来到这里拍照留念,希望沾点龙气获得幸运。

The Drum Tower in this photo is a traditional Chinese structure historically used for public announcements, timekeeping, and ceremonial purposes. It was located exactly at the center of the old city and serves as the hub of this city. The Drum Pavilion is a multi-tiered wooden structure built atop a sturdy stone base. It features a rectangular base with a multi-eaved roof, reflecting the symmetry and balance of traditional Chinese architecture. A large ceremonial drum was traditionally housed on its upper level. Before the advent of modern clocks, the drum was used to signal the time of day in coordination with a bell tower so the combination of drum tower and bell tower can be found in every ancient Chinese city.

这张照片中的鼓楼是中国传统建筑,历史上用于公告宣示、报时和举行各种仪式。它位于古城的正中央,是这座城市的中心。鼓楼是一座多层木结构建筑,建在坚固的石基上。它的特点是矩形底座和多檐屋顶,体现了中国传统建筑的对称和平衡性。传统上,鼓楼上层都放置着一面巨大的礼鼓。在现代时钟出现之前,鼓楼被用来与钟楼配合报时,在中国古代每个城市都能看到鼓楼和钟楼的组合。

The Drum Tower East Street serves as a reflection of the traditional commercial and residential culture of this city. The street is part of Datong’s ongoing efforts to preserve and restore its historical core. Many traditional buildings have been renovated to showcase the architecture of past dynasties. There are many restaurants selling local food like cut noodles.

鼓楼东街是大同市传统商业文化的体现。这条街是大同市政府对传统文化保护和恢复历史核心遗产而努力的一部分。许多传统建筑都经过翻新,以展示过去的建筑风格。这里有许多餐馆出售例如刀削面等当地美食。

The shumai of Datong is a famous local delicacy that reflects the region’s rich culinary heritage. Unlike the Cantonese-style shumai commonly found in dim sum, Datong shumai has its own unique characteristics. As Datong was a crucial hub on the ancient Silk Road and a frontier city in northern China, its cuisine was influenced by a blend of Han Chinese and Mongolian flavors. The filling of Datong shumai is made from ground lamb or beef, often mixed with scallions, ginger, and various spices like cumin. The wrapper is made from thinly rolled wheat flour dough, soft yet strong enough to hold the juicy filling. The taste is savory and aromatic, with a balance of lamb’s natural flavor and the warmth of northern spices. The wrapper of Datong shumai is slightly thicker compared to Cantonese versions. It is often served with a side of famous Shanxi vinegar to enhance its flavor.

大同烧卖是当地著名的美食,体现了大同地区丰富的烹饪传统。与常见的广式烧卖不同,大同烧卖有自己特色。大同是古代丝绸之路的重要枢纽,也是中国北方的边疆城市,其菜肴融合了汉族和蒙古族风味。大同烧卖的馅料由羊肉或牛肉末制成,通常会混合葱、姜和孜然等各种香料。烧卖皮由薄面制成,柔软而结实,可以包裹多汁的馅料。烧卖味道鲜美芳香,羊肉的天然风味与北方香料的暖意完美融合。大同烧卖皮比广式烧卖略厚,通常会搭配著名的山西醋来增强其风味。

Datong is on the cold northern frontier of ancient China, so hotpot is a popular local food. The use of copper pots became widespread due to their durability and good heat conductivity. It has a round base and a chimney-style center, which is filled with burning charcoal. The outer ring of the pot holds the broth, while the chimney ensures consistent heat distribution, keeping the broth boiling steadily. The broth is made with lamb bones, ginger, and scallions for a light, aromatic flavor which is different with Sichuan hotpot. Lamb and beef is the star ingredient, reflecting the region’s northern and Mongolian culinary influence. A traditional dipping sauce accompanies the hotpot, typically made with sesame paste, fermented tofu, garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, and chili oil. Hotpot can be regarded as one of the most popular food in China. Almost everyone likes it.

大同位于寒冷的北方边疆,因此火锅是当地一种很受欢迎的美食。铜制的锅由于耐用且导热性好而广为使用。铜锅底部为圆形,中间为烟囱式,内填燃烧的木炭。锅的外圈盛有汤汁,而中间的烟囱则确保热量均匀分布,使汤汁稳定沸腾。汤汁由羊骨、生姜和葱制成,味道清淡芳香,味道与四川火锅不同。受蒙古烹饪的影响,羊肉和牛肉是当地人的主要食材。火锅搭配通常由芝麻酱、腐乳、大蒜、醋、酱油和辣椒油制成的传统蘸料。火锅可以说是中国最受欢迎的美食之一,几乎每个国人都喜欢它。

In the city center around the Drum tower, there is one pedestrian zone which is concentrated around the central axis of the city. It is designed for foot traffic only. The street is lined with restored Ming and Qing-style buildings, featuring gray brick facades, tile roofs, and traditional wooden carvings. Decorative elements like red lanterns, stone pavements, and paifang gates evoke the charm of ancient Datong. Landmarks like the Huayan Temple and Shanhua Temple are within walking distance of the zone.

鼓楼周围的市中心有一个步行区,集中在城市中轴线周围。它专为游客步行游览而设计。街道两旁是经过修复的明清风格建筑,以灰砖外墙、瓦片屋顶和传统木雕为特色。红灯笼、石板路面和牌坊门等装饰元素彰显大同古风。华严寺和善化寺等著名地标建筑距此只有一箭之遥。

This is the entrance of Huayan temple. The temple was originally constructed during the Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE) but has undergone multiple reconstructions and renovations over the centuries.
It was built to promote the Huayan school of Buddhism, which is based on the teachings of the Huayan Sutra, one of the most influential texts in Chinese Buddhism. As a major site for Buddhist practice and study, the temple has played a significant role in promoting the spread of Buddhism in northern China.

这是华严寺的入口。本寺始建于唐朝,但几个世纪以来经历了多次重建和修缮。修建华严寺是为了弘扬华严宗佛教,该宗派以《华严经》的教义为基础,《华严经》是中国佛教中最具影响力的经文之一。作为佛教修行和学习的主要场所,该寺在促进佛教在中国北方的传播方面发挥了重要作用。

Upon entering the temple complex, I first step into the main courtyard, which is an open space surrounded by various buildings and halls. The courtyard is an important part of the temple’s layout, providing a serene space for pilgrims to gather, meditate, and prepare for their religious practices. It is rectangular and spacious, offering a clear line of sight to the main hall. The area is paved with stones, and paths lead from one building to another. The layout adheres to the traditional Chinese principle of symmetry, with the most significant structures placed along a central axis. This space makes me feel at ease. It includes many green plants and the warm cozy sunlight under the blue sky was reassuring.

进入寺庙建筑群后,我首先迈入主庭院,这是一个被各种建筑包围的大型开放空间。庭院是寺庙布局的重要组成部分,为朝圣者提供了一个宁静的空间,供他们聚集、冥想和准备宗教活动。这种庭院一般呈矩形,空间宽敞,站在中央可以清晰地看到主殿。庭院的地面铺有石头,鹅卵石小路连接了一栋栋建筑。整体布局遵循中国传统的对称原则,最重要的建筑沿着中轴线放置。这片空旷的场地让我感到心情舒畅,摆放了许多绿色植物,蓝天下温暖舒适的阳光也令人安心。

The Hall of Universal Light, is an important structure within Huayan Temple in Datong. It is located after the main entrance and before reaching the central halls like the Main Hall . The hall is dedicated to the worship of Bodhisattvas, and it emphasizes themes of light, wisdom, and the spreading of Buddhist teachings. The name “Universal Light” symbolizes the enlightenment that can guide all beings toward the path of liberation.

普光殿是大同华严寺内的重要建筑,位于正门后,位于大雄宝殿等中央殿堂之前。该殿供奉菩萨,强调光明、智慧和弘扬佛法的主题。“普光”这个名字象征着能够引导众生走向解脱之路的觉悟。

The Bell Tower and Drum Tower are two typical architecture elements of Chinese temple. They create a balanced and harmonious structure within the temple layout. It is located on an elevated platform to enhance its presence and acoustics, ensuring the sound of the bell carries across the temple grounds. In every Chinese temple, I can always catch sight of a small bell under the eave of temple hall. The small bell is often associated with the spiritual function of warding off evil spirits and bringing blessings to the temple. Passing through temple halls, I could hear the soft and delicate ringing of these small bells in the wind. Hopefully they will bring good luck to me.

钟鼓楼是中国寺庙的典型建筑元素。它们在寺庙布局中创造了一种平衡和谐的构造。钟鼓楼都位于高架平台上,以增强音质,确保钟声传遍整个寺庙。另外在每个中国寺庙里,我总能看到寺庙的大厅屋檐下的小铃铛。这些小钟通常能够驱赶邪灵并给寺庙带来祝福。徐徐穿过寺庙大厅,耳边依稀传来这些小钟在风中发出的柔和细腻的铃声,也希望它们今后能给我带来好运。

The Mahavira Hall was built during the Liao Dynasty, serving as the main hall of this temple. It is a real treasure, one of the largest surviving Liao-era wooden structures in China. Built using traditional timber-frame construction, the hall demonstrates advanced engineering techniques, including bracket sets for structural stability.

华严寺的大雄宝殿建于辽代,是该寺的主殿。它是一件真正的建筑瑰宝,是中国现存最大的辽代木制结构建筑。大殿采用当时先进的木结构工程技术,其中最明显的就是用于结构稳定性的支架组。

The hall houses numerous clay sculptures, crafted with exceptional detail. The clay sculptures are the most remarkable and well-preserved examples of ancient Buddhist art from the Liao (907–1125 CE) and Jin (1115–1234 CE) dynasties. The sculptures depict Buddhist deities, including the Vairocana Buddha, bodhisattvas, and arhats. The surfaces were finished with brightly colored paints and gold leaf, although much of the original coloring has faded over time.

大殿内陈列着许多泥塑,制作精良,细节精美。这些泥塑是辽朝和金朝时期古代佛教艺术中最杰出、保存最完好的代表。这些雕塑描绘了包括毗卢遮那佛、菩萨和罗汉等佛教神祇。雕塑表面涂有色彩鲜艳的颜料和金箔,不过大部分原始色彩已经随着时间的推移而褪色。

The walls are adorned with vivid frescoes depicting Buddhist cosmology, celestial realms, and moral teachings. These paintings use vibrant colors and intricate designs, reflecting the artistic sophistication of the Liao and Jin dynasties. Through their vivid storytelling, the frescoes served to educate visitors about Buddhist teachings and moral values. Although I did not believe in Buddhism, I still stood in front of the wall, trying to understand the stories of these frescoes.

大殿墙上布满了生动的壁画,描绘了佛教宇宙观、天界和道德教义。这些画色彩鲜艳,图案复杂,反映了辽金时期的艺术造诣。壁画通过生动的故事,教育游客了解佛教教义和道德价值观。虽然本人并不信佛,但我还是认真站在墙前,试图理解这些壁画的背后故事。

They are the statues of the Five Buddhas placed in the hall. They represent different aspects of enlightenment and cosmic wisdom. The Five Buddhas, also known as the Five Tathagatas were influenced by the Five Wisdom Buddhas in Mahayana Buddhism during the reign of North Wei Dynasty. At that period, the imperial court adopted Buddhism as the state religion, with significant support from Emperor Xiaowen who was one of the most transformative rulers in Chinese history. His reign is marked by a significant reform movement, known as the “Sinicization Reforms”, which aimed to integrate the Xianbei nomadic culture into the dominant Han Chinese culture.

这张照片是大厅中放置的五方佛像。它们代表着启蒙和宇宙智慧。五方佛是受到北魏时期大乘佛教五大智慧佛的影响。当时,北魏朝廷将佛教定为国教,并得到了孝文帝的大力支持,孝文帝是华夏历史上最具变革精神的统治者。他的统治以一场重大的汉化改革运动为标志,目的是将鲜卑游牧文化融入占主导地位的汉文化。

The emperor encouraged the Xianbei elite to adopt Han Chinese names, dress, language, and marriage customs. The use of the Chinese language in official documents and court proceedings became mandatory. Confucian ideals of governance and ethics replaced traditional Xianbei tribal customs as the official guiding principles of the state. As a result, Datong was transformed from a nomadic center into a Han-style city. Afterwards, many traditional buildings like Confucius Temple and Guandi Temple (in this photo) were constructed in line with Chinese architectural principles.

孝文帝鼓励鲜卑精英采用汉名和汉族婚姻习俗、着汉服。官方文件和法庭诉讼必须使用汉语。儒家理念和道德观取代了传统的鲜卑部落习俗,成为国家的官方政策。大同因此从游牧中心转变为汉族风格的城市。此后,许多传统建筑如孔庙和图中的关帝庙,都是按照传统汉族建筑原理建造的。

I walked through the ancient streets and historic buildings for over three hours. The last temple visited was the Shanhua Temple, one of China’s most important surviving examples of Liao and Jin dynasty Buddhist architecture. It was known for its well-preserved wooden structures, exquisite sculptures, and tranquil ambiance. The temple was originally built during the Tang Dynasty but was significantly reconstructed during the Liao Dynasty. Initially named Kaiyuan Temple during its Tang origins, the temple was later renamed Shanhua Temple during the Liao period, symbolizing the spread of Buddhist teachings.

我在古老的街道和历史建筑中走了三个多小时。参观的最后一座寺庙是善化寺,它是中国现存最重要的辽金佛教建筑之一。它以保存完好的木结构、精美的雕塑和宁静的氛围而闻名。这座寺庙最初建于唐代,但在辽代进行了大规模重建。这座寺庙最初在唐代被称为开元寺,后来在辽代改名为善化寺,象征着佛教教义的传播。

In every Chinese temple, I can always find the sculpture of the heavenly guardians at the entrance. They are often depicted as Lokapalas (Four Heavenly Kings), each overseeing one of the four cardinal directions. The guardians are depicted with fierce, intimidating expressions and wear intricately detailed armor, emphasizing their martial prowess and invincibility. Each guardian holds symbolic weapons, representing their unique powers. These colored and intricate sculptures were lively vivid and showed me the Liao and Jin Dynasty craftsmanship.

每个中国寺庙里,我都能在入口处看到四大天王的雕像,它们分别守护着四个方向。这些守护者被描绘成有凶猛、令人生畏的表情,身着精致的盔甲,他们的武艺也是天下无敌。每个守护者都手执代表性的武器(青锋宝剑、混元珍珠伞、碧玉琵琶、紫金花狐貂),代表他们独特的力量。这些色彩鲜艳、工艺精湛的雕像栩栩如生,向游客展示了辽金时期的工艺水平。

In the Mahavira Hall (also known as the Main Hall), there are many impressive statues. The central statue of Sakyamuni is depicted in a meditative pose, symbolizing peace, wisdom, and enlightenment. Above the Sakyamuni statue, it is a caisson which is an octagonal wooden ceiling that is painted and decorated. This is a very traditional decoration of Chinese architectures.

善化寺大雄宝殿内,有许多令人印象深刻的雕像。中央的释迦牟尼雕像呈现冥想的姿势,象征着和平、智慧和启蒙。释迦牟尼雕像上方是藻井,就是一个八角形的木制天花板,上面绘有彩绘和装饰。这是中国建筑非常传统的元素。

This is the interior of the Sansheng Hall which architecture follows traditional Chinese Buddhist temple design. The walls of the hall are adorned with paintings or murals depicting scenes from the Buddha’s life, important teachings, or Buddhist cosmology. The color scheme is warm and golden, with reds, yellows, and earth tones creating a sense of reverence and sanctity. In addition to the Buddha statues, there are statues of Vairocana, Manjusri and Samantabhadra, depicted in compassionate poses, emphasizing the compassionate and universal nature of Buddhist teachings. This kind of hall features painted colorful beams and high ceilings with ornate, carved wooden supports that exemplify classical Chinese craftsmanship.

这是三圣殿的内部,其建筑遵循中国传统佛教寺庙设计。殿内墙壁上装饰有描绘佛陀生平、重要教义或佛教宇宙观的绘画或壁画。配色方案是温暖的金色,红色、黄色和土色,营造出一种令人敬畏的神圣感觉。除了佛像外,还有毗卢遮那、文殊和普贤菩萨的雕像,强调了佛教教义的以慈悲为怀的特性。这种殿堂以令人眼花缭乱的彩色横梁和高高的天花板为特色,配有华丽的雕花木支架,体现了传统中国古典工艺。

Some steles are mounted on the sidewalls of the hall near the columns that support the structure. These steles are important for preserving the history and culture of the temple. Inscriptions often commemorate the temple’s founding, its patrons, and the religious figures associated with it. They also record significant events in the life of the temple, such as renovations or notable pilgrimages.

我还发现了一些石碑矗立在大厅侧壁用于支撑整体结构的柱子旁。这些石碑对于保存寺庙的历史和文化非常重要。石碑上的碑文纪念寺庙的创立者、赞助人和相关的宗教人物。它们还记录寺庙生活中例如翻修或朝圣等重要事件。

In this temple, there were many statues of devatà, that drew my attention. They are translated as “the Heavenly Kings” or “Celestial Deities” like Eight Heavenly Generals (八部天龙) or Vajra Kings. They are important figures in the temple’s representation of Buddhist cosmology. These celestial beings are typically depicted in Chinese Buddhist temples to symbolize the protection of the Buddhist law and the universe. They have ferocious faces, elaborate armor, and warrior regalia, reinforcing their protective roles. These statues are often made of wood and bronze and gilded or painted in bright colors to reflect their divine status.

这座寺庙里有许多诸天的雕像,特别引起了我的注意。诸天通常指八部天龙或金刚王等佛教众神。他们是中式寺庙里佛教宇宙观的重要代表。这些天神通常象征着佛家宇宙和佛法的保护。他们面目狰狞,身着精致的盔甲和武士服饰。这些雕像通常由木头和青铜制成,镀金或涂上鲜艳的颜色以凸显他们的神圣地位。

There is a traditional Chinese garden in the courtyard of Shanhua Temple. It includes a combination of natural features such as trees, rocks, and water, alongside carefully placed man-made structures. The garden is filled with a variety of trees, shrubs, and plants, some of which are centuries old. These trees provide shade and enhance the temple’s tranquil atmosphere. The use of evergreen trees is common in traditional Chinese gardens, symbolizing endurance and longevity. The use of rocks and stone formations is a key characteristic of Chinese gardens, and the Shanhua Temple garden is no exception.

善化寺的庭院里有一个传统的中式园林。它结合了树木、岩石和池水等自然景观,以及精心布置的人造建筑。花园里种满了各种各样的树木、灌木和植物,其中一些已有数百年历史。这些树木提供遮荫,增强了寺庙的宁静氛围。在中国传统园林中,冬青树特别常见,它们象征着耐久和长寿。大量使用假山和岩石也是中国园林的一个主要特点,善化寺的花园也不例外。

There are many temples in Datong. Most of them were built during the Liao dynasty and some of them can be dated back to North Wei Dynasty. The Xuankong Temple located at the suburb in this picture was built in that period and has been expanded and renovated over the centuries. It is built into a sheer cliff face and consists of wooden platforms, halls, and narrow walkways supported by wooden beams and stilts. This construction allows the temple to appear as though it is suspended in mid-air, offering spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.

大同有许多寺庙,大多数建于辽金时期而一些则可追溯到北魏时期。这张照片中位于郊区的悬空寺就是在那个时期建造的,几个世纪以来它经过各种扩建和翻新。如今它建在陡峭的悬崖上,由木制平台、大殿和狭窄的人行道组成,这些结构由木梁和高架支撑。这种结构使寺庙看起来好像悬在半空中,游客可以欣赏到周围壮丽的景色。

As the capital of the Northern Wei, Datong became a center of political and economic activity gradually. The city’s layout, planning, and infrastructure were influenced by the need to support a capital of such significance. Although the city’s appearance has changed over time drastically, walking through its ancient streets still evokes a sense of historical depth.

作为北魏的都城,大同历史上逐渐成为政治和经济活动的中心。城市的布局、规划和基础设施都因为都城的作用而有所改变。尽管这座城市的面貌随着时间的推移而发生了巨变,但漫步在古老的街道上仍然能让我感受到历史的厚重感。

The travel in this ancient city is quite meaningful for me. On one hand, it was a relaxing tour that relieved my fatigue accumulated in the work. On the other hand, I felt deeply immersed in the culture and history of the Northern Wei Dynasty. The awe-inspiring Yungang Grottoes, the serene temples, and the city’s ancient architecture have offered a vivid connection to the region’s rich past. Walking through these historic sites, I’ve gained a greater understanding of the Northern Wei’s influence, and the experience has left me with a lasting appreciation for the glorious historic legacy of this ancient dynasty.

这次大同古城之行对我来说意义非凡。一方面,这是一次极为放松的旅行,缓解了一年工作中累积的疲劳。另一方面,我则深深沉浸在北魏的文化和历史之中。令人叹为观止的云冈石窟、宁静的古寺庙和这座城市遗留的老建筑,都让我深刻了解了该地区丰富的历史。在这些历史遗迹中行走,我不由地身临其境深入北魏的历史,这段经历也让我对这个古老王朝的辉煌文化遗产产生了深深仰慕之情。

Pingyao: The Timeless Charm of China’s Ming and Qing Dynasty Streets

平遥:再现明清时期街道的古城

Pingyao, located in Shanxi Province, China, is one of the best-preserved ancient walled cities in the country, with a history that spans over 2,700 years. Established during the Western Zhou Dynasty (1046–771 BCE), it rose to prominence during the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1912) dynasties as a vital center for commerce and finance.

平遥位于中国山西省,是中国保存最完好的古城墙城市之一,拥有2700多年的历史。平遥始建于西周时期,明清时期成为重要的商业和金融中心。

Famed for its well-preserved city walls, traditional courtyard houses and paved streets, Pingyao offers visitors a rare glimpse into ancient Chinese urban life. The city played a pivotal role in China’s financial history, becoming the epicenter of banking during the late Qing Dynasty. It was home to the country’s first bank, Rishengchang, which laid the foundation for modern banking in China.

平遥以其保存完好的城墙、传统的四合院和板石铺成的街道而闻名,游客可以在这里一窥中国古代的城市生活。这座城市在中国金融史上也发挥了举足轻重的作用,成为晚清银行业的中心。这里是中国第一家银行日升昌的所在地,为中国现代银行业奠定了基础。

Pingyao’s architectural layout, including its impressive city walls, ancient temples, government offices, and merchant residences, remains largely intact, reflecting the urban planning and aesthetics of old China. In 1997, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its significant contribution to Chinese history and culture. Today, Pingyao stands as a living museum of China’s ancient civilization, drawing travelers who seek to immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of history and tradition. I travelled in this city on Juin 29,2023 and stayed here experiencing the life here for two days.

平遥的建筑布局,包括令人印象深刻的城墙、古老的寺庙,县衙和民宅,基本完好无损,反映了中国古代的城市规划和建筑美学。1997年,它被列为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产,以表彰其对中国历史和文化的重大贡献。如今,平遥是中国古代城市文明的活化石,吸引着那些想要沉浸在丰富的历史和传统中的旅行者。我于2023年 6 月 29 日来到这座城市,并在这里住了两天体验了当地的生活。

Pingyao’s ancient city walls are perhaps its most defining feature. It was the starting point of my trip. Constructed in 1370 during the Ming Dynasty, they stretch approximately 6 kilometers in length and stand about 10 meters high. The walls are punctuated by 72 watchtowers, which symbolize the 72 wise men in Confucian philosophy, and 3,000 battlements, representing the disciples of Confucius. The walls are made of rammed earth and faced with brick, forming an imposing defense system that still surrounds the old city. I was standing at the south gate of the city, wondering the old history of this city. There is an open space outside of the gate for taking photo.

平遥古城墙也许是其最具特色的景点。这是我此行的起点。古城墙建于明朝1370年,长约6公里,高约10米。城墙上有72座瞭望塔,象征着儒家思想中的72位智者,城墙上还有3,000个城垛,代表着孔子的三千弟子。城墙主体由夯土砌成,外墙用砖砌成,形成了一个雄伟的防御体系,至今仍环绕着古城。我此刻站在南城门惊叹于这里悠久的历史。城门外有一大片空地非常适合游客拍照。

Its 72 watchtowers are positioned at regular intervals along the perimeter. These towers were crucial to the city’s defense, serving as observation points from which guards could keep watch over the surrounding landscape and detect approaching threats. The number 72 representing the 72 wise disciples of Confucius. These watchtowers are small, square-shaped structures that protrude slightly from the wall, offering archers and soldiers a vantage point from which to observe and attack enemies without being exposed. Each watchtower is designed with arrow slits—narrow vertical openings in the walls that allow defenders to shoot arrows while remaining protected from incoming fire. The towers also provided storage for weapons and supplies during times of conflict.

城墙上均匀分布着72座瞭望塔。这些塔楼对城市的防御至关重要,它们是监视周围地形和发现敌方的哨所。72这个数字代表传承孔子思想的七十二哲。这些瞭望塔是小型的方形建筑,略微突出于城墙,为弓箭手射击提供了一个有利位置,从瞭望塔观察攻击敌人不会暴露。每座瞭望塔都设计有箭眼—就是城墙墙壁上狭窄的垂直开口,这种设计可让防御者可以自由射箭,同时又能免受敌方火力的伤害。在战争时期,这些塔楼还可用于储存武器和物资。

South Gate

The walls have six main gates—two on the east and west, one on the north, and one on the south—symbolizing the ancient belief in balancing the cosmos. This reflects the traditional Chinese view of a symmetrical and ordered universe. Each of the six gates is guarded by a gate tower that serves both as a defensive stronghold and a symbol of power. These towers are larger and more elaborate than the watchtowers, featuring multiple stories with sloping, tiled roofs and intricate wooden beams. The gate towers also serve as observation points and house weapons for defending the city entrances.

平遥城墙共有六座大门,东西两座,南北面各一座,它们象征着古代宇宙平衡的思想,反映了中国历史上传统的宇宙对称的信仰。六座大门均有城楼镇卫,城楼既是防御堡垒,也是权力的象征。这些城楼比瞭望塔更大更精致,有多层楼结构构成,屋顶倾斜铺有瓦片,木梁错综复杂。城楼也可作为观察点,并存放用于防御的武器。

Along the top of the wall are battlements, which include crenelations (the alternating high and low sections along the wall’s edge). These crenelations are designed to give archers and soldiers cover as they moved along the top of the wall. The high sections of the battlements protected the defenders, while the gaps allowed them to fire arrows or projectiles at approaching enemies. Today, Pingyao’s city walls, along with its watchtowers, remain well-preserved. Visitors can walk along the top of the wall, providing panoramic views of the ancient city below and the surrounding countryside.

城墙顶部有城垛,城垛上分布者垛口(城墙边高低交替的部分)。这些垛口的设计是为了给沿城墙顶部移动的弓箭手和士兵提供掩护。城垛的高墙保护着守军,而城垛低处的空隙则让他们可以向接近的敌人射箭或投掷重物。如今平遥的城墙和瞭望塔仍然保存完好。游客可以沿着城墙顶部行走,欣赏下方古城和周围乡村的全景。

Mingqing Street

Pingyao’s street grid is a prime example of traditional Chinese urban planning, heavily influenced by Confucian principles and feng shui. The layout reflects harmony, order, and balance, both in terms of functionality and symbolic meaning. The overall street grid forms a rectangular pattern, with the city walls enclosing the grid and the four main city gates positioned in alignment with the cardinal directions—north, south, east, and west. This arrangement follows traditional Chinese feng shui principles, which emphasize the alignment of human structures with natural forces, such as wind and water, to maintain harmony and balance. The South Avenue also known as Mingqing Street, in this photo runs from the southern gate toward the city center, forming the main artery of the city.

平遥的街道布局是中国传统城市规划的典范,深受儒家思想和风水的影响。无论是在功能性方面还是在象征意义方面,这种布局都体现了和谐、秩序和平衡。这种整体街道网格呈矩形,城墙围绕着网格,四个主要城门指向正东、南、北、西四个方向。这种布局遵循了中国传统的风水原理,强调人体结构与风水等自然力量的协调,以保持和谐与平衡。这张照片中的南大街也被称为明清街,从南门延伸到市中心,形成了城市的主干道。

Market Tower

The grid pattern of Pingyao’s streets also reflects the city’s historical role as a major commercial hub, especially during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The main streets are lined with ancient shops, merchant houses, and businesses that once thrived during the city’s golden age of trade. At the heart of Pingyao’s grid layout is the Market Tower (Shilou), a tall and iconic structure located at the intersection of South Avenue and West Avenue. Every tourist will take a photo here. The Market Tower served as both a watchtower and a symbol of the city’s commercial prosperity. Its central position reflects the idea that commerce was the lifeblood of Pingyao, and the tower also offers an elevated vantage point from which guards could oversee the city’s activities. The streets radiating from the Market Tower were the busiest areas of the city, bustling with merchants, traders, and customers.

平遥街道的网格状布局也反映了这座城市作为明清时期主要商业中心的历史地位。主要街道两旁林立着古老的商店、商铺和曾经在城市贸易黄金时代蓬勃发展的企业。这种网格布局的核心是图中的市楼,这是一座高大的标志性建筑,位于南大街和西大街的交汇处。每位游客都会在这里拍照留念。市楼既是瞭望塔,也是这座城市商业繁荣的象征。它所处的中心位置反映了商业是平遥命脉的理念,塔楼还提供了居高临下的有利位置,警卫可以从那里监督城市的活动。从这个市楼向外辐射的街道是这座城市最繁忙的地区,到处都是熙熙攘攘的商人和顾客。

The street grid of Pingyao also reflects the Confucian social hierarchy that governed life in ancient China. The most important and wealthiest families typically lived in houses close to the main streets, while less prominent families lived in smaller alleyways farther from the city center. The north-facing homes along South Avenue were reserved for the wealthiest merchants and officials, reflecting their higher status in society. These residences are larger and more ornate, often featuring intricately carved woodwork and stone decorations. Smaller shops and homes for artisans, craftsmen, and lower-class families were located along the side streets and alleys, away from the main thoroughfares.

平遥的街道网格也反映了古代中国儒家社会等级制度。最显赫和最富有的家庭通常住在靠近主要街道的房子里,而普通家庭则住在远离市中心的小巷里。南大街沿线朝北的房屋是为最富有的商人和官员保留的,反映了他们在社会中较高的地位。这些住宽敞华丽,通常以精雕细琢的木制品和石饰为特色装饰而成。工匠、手艺人和下层家庭的小商店和住宅则位于远离主干道的小街小巷。

Traditional siheyuan (courtyard homes) dominate the residential areas of Pingyao. These homes feature a central courtyard surrounded by rooms on all four sides, with the main hall at the north facing south. The symmetry of the courtyard homes mirrors the Chinese cultural emphasis on family hierarchy and social order, with the head of the family occupying the northernmost rooms. Many of these homes are intricately designed with stone carvings, wooden beams, and painted murals. From the architectural elements, tourists could know some Chinese traditional culture. Many of the houses have been transformed into hostels so tourists can experience the lives here.

平遥的住宅区以传统的四合院为主。这些住宅有一个中央庭院,四面环绕着房间,北面的主厅朝南讲究一个坐北朝南。庭院住宅的对称性反映了中国文化对家庭等级和社会秩序的重视,一家之主通常住在最北边的房间。这样的房子设计精巧,装饰有石雕、木梁和彩绘壁画。从建筑元素中,游客可以了解一些中国传统文化。这里许多房子已经改造成民宿,让游客可以体验这里的生活。

The old houses are built primarily from gray brick and wood, common materials in traditional Chinese architecture. The roofs are gabled, with elegant and curved eaves that sweep upward at the corners, which is a distinct feature of Ming and Qing architecture. The curved eaves are not only aesthetically pleasing but also serve a practical purpose by channeling rainwater away from the walls of the house.

老房子主要用中国传统建筑常用的灰砖和木材建造。屋顶为人字形,屋檐优雅而蜿蜒,拐角处向上弯曲,这是明清建筑的显著特征。弯曲的屋檐不仅美观,而且具有将雨水从房屋墙壁引流出去的实用功能。

Wooden beams and brackets are often intricately carved with floral patterns, mythical animals, or auspicious symbols like the dragon and phoenix, symbolizing wealth, protection, and good fortune.
The doors and windows are often decorated with latticework, featuring intricate geometric or floral patterns. In many cases, the windows have red paper or wooden screens behind them, which adds a traditional Chinese aesthetic while providing privacy.

房屋木梁和支架上通常精雕细琢,雕刻着花卉图案、神话动物或龙凤等吉祥符号,象征着财富、庇佑和好运。门窗通常装饰有格子图案,具有复杂的几何或花卉图案。通常窗户后面都设有红纸或木屏风,这既增添了中国传统美感保护了个人隐私。

Ma Family Compound

The facades of many of these houses are adorned with stone carvings that reflect the status and wealth of the families who once lived there. These carvings often depict scenes of daily life, religious motifs, or symbols of prosperity and longevity, such as cranes, peonies, and dragons. The doorways of these old houses are often framed with large stone lintels engraved with auspicious characters or symbols. The thresholds (the wooden bar across the entrance) are usually raised, which in Chinese culture is believed to prevent evil spirits from entering the house. High thresholds also represents the high social status. Stone lintels are horizontal architectural elements placed above doors or windows, designed to bear the load of the structure above them. In traditional Chinese architecture, especially in cities like Pingyao, stone lintels often served both a structural and decorative purpose.

许多这种房子的外墙都装饰着石雕,反映了曾经居住在那里的家庭的地位和财富。这些雕刻通常描绘日常生活场景、宗教图案或例如如鹤、牡丹和龙等繁荣和长寿的象征。这些老房子的门房上方镶有大石楣,上面刻有吉祥的文字或符号。在中国文化中,大户人家的门槛都特别高代表着更高的社会地位。人们也认为这样可以防止恶灵进入房子。石楣是放置在门或窗上方的水平建筑元素,作用是承受上方结构的重量。在中国传统建筑中,尤其是在平遥这样的城市,石楣通常既起到构造又起到装饰作用。

When the dragon and phoenix are carved as round stone reliefs and placed on both sides of a doorway, they together represent a harmonious balance of yin and yang, the two complementary forces in Chinese cosmology. This balance is seen as essential for maintaining a harmonious home and ensuring a prosperous life for the inhabitants.

当龙和凤被雕刻成圆形浮雕并放置在门的两侧时,它们共同代表着阴阳之间的和谐平衡,阴阳是道家宇宙观中两种互补的力量。这种平衡被视为维持家庭和谐和确保居民生活富足的必要条件。

Dui lian (对联), or couplets, are traditional Chinese poetic inscriptions that are often written on the red papers and displayed on the both sides of doorways of homes, temples, and other important buildings. It is the traditional Chinese culture that is gradually forgotten by new generations.In Pingyao, I can find them on the doorways of many of the old houses. The content of dui lian often reflects the values, aspirations, and beliefs of the homeowner. They are traditionally written in classical Chinese and composed with strict attention to balance and symmetry in both meaning and tone. For example the dui lian in this photo represents prosperity and harmony of living in the houses for many years. If foreign tourists want to learn Chinese culture during the visit, it is important to learn Chinese character and the language first.

对联是中国传统诗文的一种文化形式,对联通常隽写在红纸上,贴在家里、寺庙和其他重要建筑的门口两侧。这种中国传统文化正逐渐被新一代人遗忘。在平遥我在很多老房子的门口都看到了对联。对联的内容往往反映了房主的价值观、愿望和信仰。对联传统上用文言文书写,在含义和语调上都严格注重平衡和对称。例如,这张照片中的对联代表着多年来住在房子里的繁荣与和谐。如果各国游客想在游览期间了解中国文化,那么首先学习汉字和语言是及其重要的。

In the traditional old houses of Pingyao, the spaces above windows often feature paintings and poetry that serve both decorative and cultural purposes. These artistic elements reflect the aesthetic tastes, values, and intellectual pursuits of the homeowners, while also incorporating symbols meant to bring good fortune and harmony to the household. In ancient China, poetry and painting were considered the pinnacle of scholarly achievement and refined taste. The presence of these artistic elements above the windows of old houses in Pingyao indicates the cultural sophistication of the residents or owners. Displaying poetic couplets or paintings was a way for the homeowner to showcase their literary and artistic sensibilities, as these forms of art were deeply admired in traditional Chinese society.

平遥的传统老房子里,窗户上方的一片空间通常以绘画和诗歌为特色,既具有装饰作用,又具有文化意义。这些艺术元素反映了房主的审美、价值观和知识追求,同时也融入了为家庭带来好运和和谐的象征。在中国古代,诗歌和绘画被认为是学术成就和高雅品味的顶峰。平遥老房子窗户上方的这些艺术元素表明了大院主人的文化修养。在传统中国社会中诗词曲赋深受文人推崇,窗上展示诗句或绘画亦是房主展示其文才和艺术观的一种方式。

The poem ‘Mansion in the Bamboo Forest’ in this photo is written by one of the great poets of the Tang Dynasty, Wang Wei.

Alone, I sit in the bamboo forest,
Playing my zither, then humming along.
Deep in the forest, no one knows I’m here,
Only the bright moon comes to shine on me.

Wang Wei’s poetry often reflects his Buddhist beliefs, particularly in the idea of quiet reflection and the search for enlightenment through detachment from material concerns. The serene solitude of the bamboo forest, where he communes with nature and the moon, suggests an ideal state of meditative tranquility.
The poem also touches on Taoist philosophy, which emphasizes living in accordance with nature and finding harmony in simplicity.

照片中的《竹里馆》是唐代大诗人王维的作品。

独坐幽篁里,弹琴复长啸。
深林人不知,明月来相照。

王维的诗作常常反映出他的佛教信仰,尤其是静思和通过脱离物质追求寻求启迪的理念。竹林的宁静与孤独,他与自然和月亮交流,暗示着一种理想的冥想宁静状态。这首诗还涉及道家哲学,强调顺应自然,在朴素中寻找和谐。

In Pingyao, I noticed that many of the old houses and shops throughout the ancient city still hang red lanterns as part of their traditional decor. These lanterns are typically placed above doorways or at the entrance to homes and shops or in courtyards. In Chinese culture, the color red is associated with good fortune, joy, and prosperity. Red lanterns are believed to attract good luck to the home and ward off misfortune. They are often hung during significant occasions, such as festivals, weddings, or the Lunar New Year, to invite happiness and success into the household.

在平遥,我发现古城里许多老房子和商店仍然挂着红灯笼。作为传统装饰的一部分这些灯笼通常挂在家门口或庭院里。在中国文化中,红色与好运、欢乐和繁荣有关。人们相信红灯笼能给家里带来好运,避开厄运。通常在节日、婚礼或农历新年等重要场合人们会挂上红灯笼,以祈求幸福和成功。

The well-preserved attic architecture in the old houses of Pingyao reflects traditional Chinese design principles. The structural framework of attics in Pingyao’s old houses is primarily composed of wood, reflecting traditional Chinese timber construction techniques. The use of wooden beams, posts, and brackets was essential for building upper floors and attics, as timber was both sturdy and flexible, ideal for withstanding the weight of the roof and additional stories. Interlocking joinery techniques were used without nails, relying on precise carpentry to ensure the attic’s structural integrity. These techniques allowed for the natural expansion and contraction of wood, making the buildings more resistant to weather changes. It is one of the greatest innovations in the history of Chinese traditional architecture.

平遥古民居保存完好的阁楼建筑体现了中国传统的设计思路。平遥古民居阁楼的结构框架主要由木材构成,体现了中国传统的木结构建筑技术。木梁、木柱和木托架是建造上层和阁楼的必备材料,木材既坚固又柔韧,非常适合承受屋顶和额外楼层的重量。阁楼采用榫卯技术,无需使用钉子,仅依靠精确的木工连接来确保结构的完整性。这种技术允许木材自然膨胀和收缩,使建筑物更能抵抗天气变化。这也是中国传统建筑史上最伟大的创新之一。

The roof structure often featured gabled roofs (硬山顶) or hipped roofs (悬山顶). The sloping roofs of traditional Chinese architecture created enough height for an attic space while maintaining the overall aesthetic harmony of the building. The eaves of the roof often extended outward from the attic, creating an overhang that protected the walls from rain and provided shade. In Pingyao’s old houses, these extended eaves were not only functional but also served as decorative elements, with elaborate carvings or tiled patterns beneath them. The use of decorative wooden brackets known as dougong (斗拱) is a prominent feature in the attics of traditional Chinese houses. These brackets were placed beneath the eaves or supporting the beams of the attic, helping distribute the weight of the roof while adding visual interest.
In Pingyao’s old houses, dougong elements were often intricately carved with symbolic motifs such as dragons, flowers, or clouds, enhancing the attic’s aesthetic appeal and imbuing the architecture with cultural significance.

屋顶结构通常为硬山顶或悬山顶。中国传统建筑的斜屋顶为阁楼空间创造了足够的高度,同时保持了建筑整体的美学和谐。屋檐通常从阁楼向外延伸,形成一个悬垂部分,保护墙壁免受雨水侵袭并提供遮荫。在平遥的古民居中,这些延伸的屋檐不仅具有实用性,而且作为装饰元素,其下方有精美的雕刻或瓷砖图案。使用装饰性木制支架(斗拱)是中国传统民居阁楼的一大特色。这些支架放置在屋檐下或支撑阁楼的横梁,有助于分散屋顶的重量,同时增加视觉趣味。在平遥的古民居中,斗拱元素通常精雕细琢,雕刻有龙、花或云等象征性图案,增强了阁楼的美感,赋予了建筑文化意义。

In some wealthier homes, the attic might include a small balcony or viewing platform extending from the upper floor. These platforms, often facing the courtyard, allowed residents to enjoy views of the surrounding landscape. In traditional Chinese society, the height of a building was often associated with social status. The inclusion of an attic or upper story was a sign of wealth and prestige, as not every family could afford to build multi-level homes. The attics of old Pingyao houses combine practical functionality with rich cultural symbolism and aesthetic beauty. Built using traditional Chinese timber construction techniques, these attics serve as important extensions of the home, providing additional space for storage and living.

在一些富户的住宅中,阁楼也包括从上层延伸的小阳台或观景台。这些平台通常面向庭院,让居民可以欣赏周围的景观。在传统的中国社会中因为并非每个家庭都能负担得起建造多层住宅,建筑的高度通常与社会地位有关。阁楼或向上的楼层是财富和声望的象征。平遥古民居的阁楼将实用功能与丰富的文化象征和美学融为一体。这些阁楼采用中国传统的木结构建筑技术建造,是住宅的重要延伸,为储藏、居住提供了额外的空间。

Er Lang Temple

Pingyao also boasts a wealth of temples and civic buildings for visit. Er Lang Temple, dedicated to the Chinese deity Er Lang Shen is a traditional Taoist temple. Er Lang Shen is a powerful deity in Chinese folklore, known as the God of Justice or a divine warrior. He is usually depicted as a man with three eyes, the third eye located in the middle of his forehead, symbolizing his spiritual insight and ability to see through deception. The main entrance to the Er Lang Temple features an ornate gate, flanked by stone lions which is a frequently used Chinese architecture element. Above the gate, there is a blue plaque with the temple’s name in traditional Chinese calligraphy.

除了民宅平遥还有大量的寺庙和公共建筑供游客参观。图中的二郎庙是传统的道教寺庙。 二郎神是中国民间传说中的强大神灵,被称为正义之神。他被描绘成拥有三只眼睛的躯体,第三只眼睛位于额头的中间,象征着洞察一切的能力。 二郎庙的主入口有一个华丽的大门,两侧装饰的是石狮子,这是一种经常使用的中国建筑元素。大门上方有一个蓝色牌匾,上面以传统的中国书法镌刻出寺庙的名称。

The main hall of an Er Lang Temple houses a large statue of Er Lang Shen, often in a central position, surrounded by other deities or Taoist figures. Traditional Chinese temple architecture often includes a courtyard with side halls dedicated to other deities, including Taoist immortals, ancestral figures, or other protective gods. Inside the courtyard, a large incense burner is placed for worshipers to make offerings of incense. The burner is often made of bronze or stone, and feature intricate designs such as dragons. Such kind of incense burner can always be found in the Chinese temple.

二郎庙的主厅中央位置立者二郎神的大雕像,周围是其他神灵或道教人物。中国传统的寺庙建筑通常包括一个庭院,以及敬奉包括道教的神仙或其他保护性神的侧厅。在庭院内放置了一个大的香炉,信徒们在这里进行供奉或者上香。这种香炉采用龙形的复杂的设计通常由青铜或石头制成。在中国的寺庙中这种香炉可以说随处可见。

Chenghuang temple

Another traditional Chinese temple is the Chenghuang temple, dedicated to a deity responsible for protecting the city and its inhabitants. Such similar Temples of the City God can be found in many Chinese towns and cities but the temple in Pingyao is one of the most well-preserved and richly decorated examples of this type of temple, reflecting the importance of the City God in traditional Chinese urban life.

另一座中国城市传统的庙宇是城隍庙,这里供奉着守护城市和城中居民的神灵。中国许多城镇都有类似的城隍庙,但平遥城隍庙是此类庙宇中保存最完好、装饰最华丽的,它也反映了城隍在中国古代传统城市生活中的重要性。

The temple’s entrance is called mountain gate. It is the first point of entry and often a symbol of the boundary between the secular world and the sacred realm. The gate is decorated with stone carvings or calligraphy. Guardian statues, often of deities or mythical creatures like turtle and snake stand by the entrance to ward off evil spirits and protect the sanctity of the temple.

寺庙的入口称为山门。它是进入寺庙的第一道门,通常也是世俗世界和神域之间的界限。山门上装饰着石雕或书法。入口处矗立着通常是例如龙神龟蛇等神灵或神话生物的守护神像,以驱赶邪灵并保护寺庙的神圣性。

A large incense burner is positioned outside the main hall. Worshipers place sticks of incense here while praying for protection, good fortune, and justice from the City God. Inside the main hall, there is an altar where offerings such as fruit, flowers, and paper money are placed before the City God. Like many traditional Chinese temples, the Chenghuang temple adheres to feng shui principles, ensuring that the flow of energy (which is called qi) is harmonious throughout the temple complex. The temple is typically oriented to align with the city’s key geographical features, such as rivers or mountains, to enhance its spiritual efficacy. The layout of the buildings, doorways, and altars is designed to ensure a balance of yin and yang, promoting health, harmony, and protection for the city’s inhabitants.

大殿外安置着一个大香炉。信徒们在这里焚香,祈求城隍保佑和好运势。大殿内有一座祭坛,供奉城隍的供品包括水果、鲜花和纸钱。与许多中国传统寺庙一样,城隍庙遵循风水原则,确保整个寺庙建筑群的能量(称为气)流动和谐。寺庙的朝向通常与城市的主要地理特征(如河流或山脉)保持一致,以增强其精神功效。建筑物、门道和祭坛的布局确保阴阳平衡,促进城市居民的健康和谐。

When I walked in the Chinese old cities or China towns all through the world, I can always see this kind of gate, called Paifang or Pailou, a traditional culture heritage. They are usually erected to serve as gateways marking the entrance to sacred or important spaces, such as temples and tombs. They are also commonly built in honor of historical figures or to celebrate events like military victories. The design of a Pai Fang include archways and multi-tiered structures with several roofed sections and pillars. The roof of the Pai Fang is often built in a traditional hip-and-gable (歇山顶) style, with upturned eaves, adding a graceful curve to the structure. These roofs can be made of glazed tiles or decorated with ceramic figurines of mythical animals like dragons or phoenixes. The Pai Fang’s pillars are an essential part of the structure. These pillars are often ornately carved with symbols of prosperity, longevity, or good fortune, such as dragons, cloud motifs, or auspicious plants. At the top of the Pai Fang, there is typically a horizontal plaque with an inscription, usually written in calligraphy.

当我漫步在中国古城或世界各地的唐人街时,总能看到这种牌坊或牌楼,这是一种非常传统的文化遗产。它们通常作为通往例如寺庙和陵墓等神圣或重要场地的入口,也常常是为了纪念历史人物或庆祝军事胜利等事件而建造。牌坊的设计包括拱门和多层结构,包括多层顶和柱子。牌坊的屋顶通常采用传统的歇山顶风格,带有上翘的屋檐,为建筑增添了优美的曲线。这些屋顶可以用釉面瓦片制成,也可以用龙或凤凰等神话动物的陶瓷雕像装饰。牌坊的柱子是该建筑的重要组成部分。这些柱子上通常雕刻着例如龙、云朵图案或吉祥植物等象征繁荣、长寿或好运的华丽图案。牌坊顶部有一块横匾,上面通常用传统书法书写铭文。

The pai fang in the diagram above marks the entrance of the Confucian Temple. It is one of the oldest and largest surviving Confucian temples in China, reflecting the deep reverence for Confucian ideals in the region. It dates back to the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–534 AD) and has been expanded and renovated throughout the centuries. The layout of a Confucian temple also follows a central axis design, with buildings arranged symmetrically along this axis to symbolize balance and harmony, core principles of Confucian thought.

上图的牌坊就是文庙的入口。它是中国现存最古老规模最大的文庙之一,反映了该地区对儒家思想的崇敬。它的历史可以追溯到北魏(公元386-534年),几个世纪以来不断扩建和修缮。文庙的布局也采用中轴线设计,建筑物沿轴线对称排列,象征着平衡与和谐,这是儒家的核心思想。

Confucian temples

The Lingxing Gate is a symbolic gateway in Confucian temples. The gate is named after a star and symbolizes the connection between heaven and Confucian ideals. Passing through this gate signifies entering a place of elevated thought and moral instruction. The gate is typically constructed in an ornate style with wood carvings and painted beams that reflect the temple’s importance as a center of education.

棂星门是文庙的标志性大门。棂星门以一颗上天的星命名,象征着天道与儒家理想的联系。穿过这扇门意味着进入一个崇高的思想和道德教育之地。棂星门通常采用华丽的风格建造,带有木雕和彩绘横梁,反映了文庙作为当地教育中心的重要性。

The Dacheng Hall, or Hall of Great Accomplishment, is the central and most important building in the temple complex. It is dedicated to Confucius and his 72 disciples, who played a key role in spreading his teachings. The hall is often the site of ceremonies and sacrificial offerings made to honor Confucius. Many people think that Chinese don’t believe in any religions however the ideas of Confucius has affected Chinese for thousands of years and can be regarded as a religion. Confucius’s ideas laid the foundation for Confucianism, a system of thought that has profoundly shaped Chinese culture, politics, and education for over two millennia. His teachings focus on ethics, morality, social harmony, and the proper conduct of individuals within society. Confucius emphasized the importance of personal development through education and self-cultivation, as well as the need for a well-ordered society governed by virtuous leaders.

大成殿是文庙建筑群的中心和最重要的建筑。它供奉孔子和他的72位弟子,他们在传播孔子的教义方面发挥了关键作用。大成殿经常是举行纪念孔子的仪式和祭祀的场所。很多人认为中国人不信仰任何宗教,但孔子的思想影响了中国人几千年,儒家思想在中国可以被视为一种宗教。孔子的理论为儒家思想奠定了基础。儒家思想体系在两千多年的时间里在各方面都深刻地影响了中国文化、政治和教育。他的教义注重伦理、道德、社会和谐以及个人在社会中的正确行为。孔子强调通过教育和自我修养实现个人发展的重要性,以及由有德之士统治有序社会的必要性。

Inside the hall, there is a large statue of Confucius, along with smaller statues of his followers or tablets inscribed with their names. The statue often portrays Confucius seated in a dignified manner, symbolizing wisdom and authority. The hall is often ornately decorated with calligraphy, wood carvings, and paintings that reflect Confucian ideals such as filial piety (孝), benevolence (仁), and righteousness (义). In front of Confucius’ statue, there is an altar where offerings such as fruits, incense, and wine are placed. These offerings are part of the rituals that honor Confucius and show respect for his teachings.

大殿内有孔子大塑像,以及一些刻有孔子弟子名字的小塑像。塑像上孔子以庄严的姿态端坐,象征智慧和权威。殿内装饰华丽,有各种书法作品、木雕和绘画,反映孝、仁、义等儒家思想。孔子塑像前有祭坛,供奉着水果、熏香、清酒等祭品。这些祭品是纪念孔子和尊重其教诲的仪式的一部分。

The Minglun Hall, or Hall of Moral Enlightenment, is a key feature of many Confucian temples. This building is used for lectures, debates, and the study of Confucian classics. The hall is often designed with simple elegance, reflecting the Confucian values of moderation and practicality. Inside, scholars and students would gather to discuss the Five Classics and Four Books, foundational texts in Confucian thought. The Confucian temple also served as a school or academy for scholars in the ancient times. Students and officials would come to study the Confucian texts, discuss philosophy, and prepare for the Imperial Civil Service Examinations (科举), which were based on Confucian teachings.

明伦堂是许多文庙都有的特色建筑。这座建筑用于讲学、辩论和研究儒家经典。大厅通常设计简洁优雅,反映了儒家适度和实用的价值观。在里面学者和学生会聚集在一起讨论四书五经等儒家思想的基础文献。文庙也是古代的学院。学生和官员会来这里学习儒家经典,讨论哲学,并为以儒家教义为科举做准备。

Temple of the Martial God

In Chinese history, the Confucian Temple (Wen Miao) and the Temple of the Martial God (Wu Miao) are present in every ancient city. The Wu Miao in Pingyao is dedicated to Guan Yu, a legendary general from the Three Kingdoms period (220–280 AD) who has been deified as a symbol of loyalty, righteousness, and bravery in Chinese culture. The temple reflects the deep respect for Guan Yu as a martial deity who protects the people and upholds justice, making it an important cultural and religious site in Pingyao. The dui lian at the entrance is very famous which means Confucious and Guanyu are both saints who are born in the west and east of Tai Hang mountains and the saint of liberal art Confucious wrote the book ‘Chunqiu’ and the saint of martial art Guanyu read the book ‘Chunqiu’ .

中国历史上,每座古城都有文庙和武庙。平遥武庙供奉关羽,他是三国时期的一位传奇将军,在中国文化中被尊为忠诚、正义和勇敢的象征。这座庙宇反映了人们对关羽作为保护人民和主持正义的武神的深深敬意,使它成为平遥重要的文化和宗教场所。入口处的对联非常有名将孔子和关羽并列提出, 山别东西前夫子后夫子,圣分文武著春秋读春秋 。

Upon passing through the gate, visitors enter a spacious front courtyard, a common feature in Chinese temples. This open space serves both as a ceremonial area and a place for worshippers to gather before approaching the inner sanctum. The courtyard is usually lined with stone steles, statues, or altars where offerings of incense, fruits, and wine can be made to Guan Yu.

穿过大门,游客进入宽敞的前院,这种构造在可谓是司空见惯。这片开放空间既是举行仪式的地方,也是信徒在进入内殿之前聚集的地方。庭院里通常排列着石碑、雕像或祭坛,人们可以在那里向关羽供奉通常向神敬奉的香、水果和酒。

The main hall of the Wu Miao is dedicated to Guan Yu himself. Inside, a grand vivid statue of Guan Yu is the central focus of worship. The general is depicted in his traditional green martial attire. The hall features richly decorated beams, intricate wood carvings. Guan Yu is one of the most famous character in the novel of ‘The Romance of three kingdom’. In the novel his steadfast loyalty to his sworn brothers Liu Bei and Zhang Fei during the turbulent Three Kingdoms period made him a symbol of unwavering fidelity.

武庙主殿供奉着关羽本人。殿内中央关羽的塑像栩栩如生。关将军身着传统的绿色武服。殿内横梁装饰华丽,木雕精巧,壁画生动逼真。关羽是小说《三国演义》中最著名的人物之一。在小说中动荡的三国时期,玉可碎而不可损其白,竹可破而不可毁其节,他对结拜兄弟刘备和张飞的忠厚情谊使他成为忠义的化身。

‘The Romance of three kingdom’ is well-known to every Chinese and also affect my life and values. It is my favorite book. In modern times, Guan Yu is also worshipped as a guardian deity of wealth and is revered by businesspeople for his loyalty and honesty. At the side hall, the statues of Zhang Fei and Zhao Yun are set up. Guan Yu and they are called Five Tiger Generals in the novel. These five legendary warriors were known for their incredible loyalty, martial prowess, and contributions to Liu Bei’s military campaigns. Their stories, popularized through “Romance of the Three Kingdoms,” have become an integral part of Chinese folklore.

《三国演义》是每个中国人都熟悉的一本书,它也影响了我的生活和价值观。这也是我最喜欢的书。现代,关羽也被崇拜为财富的守护神,商界人士因其信义而特别尊崇他。在侧厅,竖立着张飞和赵云的雕像。关羽和他们在小说中被称为五虎将。这五位传奇大将以其忠诚、极高的武艺和对刘备军事战役的贡献而闻名于世。他们的轶闻也通过《三国演义》广为流传,已成为中国民间传说不可或缺的一部分。

Rishengchang Draft Bank

Pingyao is very important in the Chinese history of finance. One of the most significant structures in the ancient city is the Rishengchang Draft Bank, founded in 1823, which was the first private financial institution in China. This building served as the precursor to modern banks, pioneering the use of draft remittances, allowing merchants to transfer large sums of money safely across China. The bank’s offices are laid out like a fortress, with thick walls and heavy doors for security, underscoring the importance of commerce in Pingyao’s history. Visitors do not need to pay anything visiting the old city but it is necessary to buy tickets for visiting this kind of museum.

平遥在中国金融史上占有重要地位。古城中最重要的建筑之一是日升昌票号,成立于1823年,是中国第一家私人金融机构。这座建筑是现代银行的前身,率先使用汇票,使商人能够安全地将大笔资金转移到中国各地。银行的办公室布局像一座堡垒,墙壁厚重,门扉沉重,以保证安全,凸显了商业在平遥历史上的重要性。游客参观古城不需要支付任何费用,但参观这种博物馆则需要购买门票。

Today, the Rishengchang Bank has been transformed into a museum, allowing visitors to explore the site where China’s first draft banking system began. The museum provides detailed displays about the bank’s history, operations, and the broader role it played in the development of commerce and banking in China. In the rooms, I could see the old ledgers, drafts, and accounting books used by the bank’s clerks and the traditional abacuses and tools used in money counting and accounting. Before I visited here, I have never known that this city has such an important status in the monetary system of Chinese history.

如今,日升昌钱庄已改建成博物馆,让游客可以探索了解中国第一个票号银行制度的发源地。博物馆详细展示了该银行的历史、运营以及它在中国商业和银行业发展中发挥的更广泛作用。在房间里,我可以看到银行职员使用的旧账簿、票号和会计账簿,以及用于点钞和记账的传统算盘和工具。在我游览之前,我从不知道这座城市在中国历史货币体系中占有如此重要的地位。

Pingyao County Government Office

After I visited the residential houses and the religious buildings, I also visited the Pingyao County Government Office. It was built during the Northern Song Dynasty and in continuous use for nearly 600 years, it served as the administrative and judicial center of Pingyao County. The Xian Ya (county office) not only represents traditional Chinese governance but also offers valuable insights into the workings of local government, law enforcement, and the justice system during ancient China.

参观完民居和宗教建筑后,我还参观了平遥县衙。它建于北宋时期,连续使用了近600年,是平遥县的行政和司法中心。县衙不仅代表了中国传统的政府治理制度,而且还为游客了解古代地方政府、执法和司法系统的运作提供了宝贵的见解。

The Pingyao County Government Office was the official workplace of the county magistrate, who was the highest local official appointed by the imperial government. This magistrate was responsible for a variety of functions, including maintaining law and order, collecting taxes, administering justice, and managing public works within the county. The magistrate’s office was a crucial link between the central government and the local population.

平遥县衙是县令的官方办公地点,县令是朝廷任命的当地最高地方官员。县令负责多种职能,包括维持法律和秩序、征收税款、执行司法、管理县内的公共工程。县衙是中央政府与当地民众之间的重要纽带。

One of the most notable parts of the Xian Ya is the Judicial Hall, where the magistrate presided over trials and administered justice. This hall was the core of the judicial functions of the office, where criminal cases, civil disputes, and other legal matters were heard. The hall is decorated with wooden plaques and couplets emphasizing justice, fairness, and the moral integrity expected of the magistrate. The magistrate’s seat, elevated to convey authority, was positioned in the center of the hall, with defendants and plaintiffs facing him. To the side of the Judicial Hall are displays of torture instruments and other tools used in the judicial process. Although harsh by modern standards, these instruments were common in the history of China and were used to extract confessions or enforce punishments.

县衙最引人注目的部分就是判官堂,县令在此主持并执行正义。该堂是官署司法职能的核心,审理刑事案件、民事纠纷和其他法律事务都在此处。大厅装饰有木匾和对联,强调公正公平和县令应有的道德操守。县令的座位位于大厅中央,位置更高以传达权威,被告和原告在下方面对着知县。判官堂的一侧展示了司法过程中使用的刑具和其他工具。虽然以现代标准来看这些工具很严酷,但在中国历史上这些工具很常见,一般用于逼供或执行惩罚。

Behind the judicial and administrative sections of the compound is the residential area where the magistrate and his family lived. This area is more private and secluded, reflecting the separation between the official’s public duties and personal life. The residential quarters are simple yet elegant, with traditional Chinese furniture, and garden spaces that offer a serene atmosphere for the magistrate to relax.

司法和行政部门的后堂是县令及其家人居住的住宅区。这个区域更加私密和隐蔽,体现了官员的公务和个人生活的分离。住宅区简朴而优雅,配有传统中式家具和花园,为县令提供了宁静的氛围,供其放松身心。

Along Pingyao’s main streets, the centuries-old merchant shops remain largely unchanged. Many of these buildings have been repurposed as museums, restaurants, or souvenir shops, but they retain the architectural features of traditional Chinese businesses like wooden facades, stone doorways, and intricate roof designs. These shops evoke the bustling trade atmosphere that once filled Pingyao’s streets. There are also some small alleys are often quiet, lined with old stone walls, creating an atmosphere that feels largely untouched by time. Walking through these alleys provides a deeper sense of the town’s structure, reflecting the urban planning and lifestyle of the past.

沿着平遥的主要街道,百年历史的店面很多基本保持原样。这些建筑中有许多已被改建为博物馆、餐馆或纪念品商店,但它们仍然保留了如木质门面和复杂的屋顶设计等中国传统商业建筑的特色。这些商店令人想起了曾经遍布平遥街道的繁华商业氛围。其实城中还有一些很安静的小巷,两旁是古老的石墙,营造出一种悠久的氛围。漫步在这些小巷中,游客可以更深入地了解城市的布局以及过去的城市规划和生活方式。

This is quite a meaningful trip for me. Nowadays most of the old buildings and traditions in China have been destroyed. However, I could know more deeply about Chinese history, culture, and old architectures through deploying the essence of this ancient city where time seems to stand still. The echoes of history reverberate through the stone-paved streets, the towers, and the alleys, all of which tell the story of Pingyao’s grandeur and its pivotal role in China’s past. Each step here has brought me closer to understanding the cultural and architectural heritage.

对我来说,这是一次意义非凡的旅行。如今中国大多数古老的建筑和旧传统已不复存在。然而通过探索这座仿佛穿越时空的古城,我却可以更深入地了解中国的历史文化和古老的建筑。旧日的回声回荡在石板街道、塔楼和小巷中,所有这些都在讲述了平遥的灿烂过去及其在中国历史上的关键作用。在这里踏出的每一步都让我更进一步地了解了平遥的文化和建筑遗产。

As I reflected on the quiet beauty of the courtyard houses, the intricate details of the pai fang, and the centuries-old traditions that still thrive in this town, I realized that Pingyao is more than just a destination—it’s a journey of immersing in the old ways of life which cultural influence of thousands of years is deeply rooted in every corner of this city. The well conserved city wall, the flicker of red lanterns, and the timeless elegance of the architecture will always leave an indelible mark on my memories.

当我如今回想起平遥四合院的静谧之美、牌坊的精致细节以及从古至今延续百年的传统时,不禁感概到这不仅是一次走马观花的旅行—它更像是一次体验古老生活的丰富经历,千年的文化影响深深扎根于这座城市的每个角落。保存完好的城墙、风中摇曳的红灯笼和古朴的建筑将永远在我的记忆中留下一抹挥之不去的痕迹。