Discovering the Beauty of the City of Eternal Spring

寻觅春城之美

Nestled in the heart of Yunnan Province, Kunming is a city where spring never fades away. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its mild climate and blooming flowers year-round, this fascinating destination offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, rich history, and diverse culture. Beyond its scenic charm, Kunming is a gateway to Yunnan’s ethnic diversity, home to 26 ethnic minorities whose traditions and cuisine add a unique flavor to the city.

昆明位于云南省的中心,是一座春意常驻的城市。这个吸引无数游客的旅游地因其温暖的气候和全年盛开的鲜花而被赞为“永恒的春城”,它完美融合了自然美景、丰富的历史和多元文化。除了风景魅力之外,昆明还是领略云南民族多样性文化的门户,这里是 26 个少数民族的家园,各式各样的文化传统和美食为这座城市增添了独特的风味。

I arrived at the Kunming airport in the morning of 15th May 2024 and started my summer holiday in Yunnan province. Upon arrival, this skeleton of dinosaur displayed at the arrival hall drew my attention immediately. Yunnan is one of the richest places in China for dinosaur fossils. During the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, Yunnan had a warm, humid climate with vast lakes, rivers, and lush vegetation. This environment provided an ideal habitat for dinosaurs to thrive. This is the model of skeleton of Lufengosaurus, one of China’s earliest known dinosaurs.

我于2024年5月15日上午抵达昆明机场,开始了我的云南之旅。机场到达大厅展示的这具恐龙骨架瞬间引起了我的注意。云南是中国恐龙化石最丰富的地方之一。侏罗纪和白垩纪时期,云南气候温暖湿润,湖泊河流广阔,植被茂盛。这种环境为恐龙的繁衍生息提供了理想的栖息地。图中这是中国已知最早的恐龙之一禄丰龙的骨骼模型。

This was one photo of street view taken on the way to the Dianchi lake. There is one Chinese poem verse’ 春城无处不飞花 ‘ which means ‘Blossoms drift in every corner of the Spring City’ . It could best describe how Kunming’ street looks like. Kunming’s streets in spring and summer are a breathtaking sight, where blossoms cascade like pink falls, painting the city in soft and romantic hues. Lush trees, heavy with bougainvillea and jacarandas, line the sidewalks, their petals swirling gently in the breeze. When the wind stirs, a shower of petals flutters down, covering the ground in a delicate floral carpet.

这是去滇池途中拍的一张街景照片。中国有一首诗春城无处不飞花最能形容昆明的寻常巷末。春夏天的昆明街道景色令人叹为观止,鲜花如粉红色的瀑布般倾泻而下,为这座城市涂上了柔和浪漫的色调。人行道两旁种满了茂密的九重葛和蓝花楹树,花瓣在微风中轻轻旋转飞舞。微风掠过,花瓣纷纷飘落,为地面铺上一层精致的花毯。

Located on the northeastern shore of Dianchi Lake, Haigeng Park is one of Kunming’s most beautiful natural spots, offering stunning lake views, lush greenery, and a peaceful retreat from the city’s bustle. Often called “the lakeside garden of Kunming”, this park is famous for its willow-lined walkways, golden sunsets, and flocks of migratory seagulls in winter.

海埂公园位于滇池东北岸,是昆明最美丽的自然景点,这里拥有令人叹为观止的湖景、郁郁葱葱的绿色植物以及远离城市喧嚣的宁静休憩之所。这里堪称昆明市的湖畔花园,以其柳荫步道、金色夕阳和冬季成群的候鸟海鸥而闻名于世。

Dianchi Lake

The park stretches along the edge of Dianchi Lake. Walking along its banks, visitors can enjoy reflections of the Western Hills lying beside the water. Dianchi Lake, often called the “Pearl of the Plateau”, is the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan Province. It is the most representative scene spot in Kunming. Huge amounts of visitors came here to take a perfect photo beside the lake. The deep blue of Dianchi Lake contrasts beautifully with the emerald green of Western Hills. Gentle waves ripple under the light breeze, and migratory seagulls soar between the lake and the hills. This is the most memorable memory in my trip of Kun Ming.

公园沿着滇池的边缘延伸。沿着河岸行走,游客满眼皆是映在水边的西山倒影。滇池,素有“高原明珠”之称,是云南省最大的淡水湖,也是昆明最具代表性的景点。大批游客慕名而来,在湖边拍下心目中完美的照片。滇池水的深蓝色与西山的翠绿相映成趣。微风徐徐,波光粼粼,海鸥在湖光山色间翱翔。这也是我此次昆明之行最难忘的回忆。

Shaded paths lined with weeping willows and vibrant flowers make Haigeng Park an ideal place for a leisurely stroll, jogging, or cycling. The gentle swaying of willow branches over the water adds a poetic charm. Across the shimmering waters of Dianchi Lake, it is the Western Hill rising on the opposite shore, their green slopes gently rolling like the silhouette of an elegant sleeping beauty resting beneath the sky.

海埂公园绿树成荫的小道两旁垂柳茂盛,鲜花盛开,是休闲散步、慢跑或骑自行车的理想场所。水面上柳枝轻轻摇曳,增添诗情画意。隔着波光粼粼的滇池湖水,对岸就是拔地而起的西山,翠绿的山坡轻柔起伏,如同一位在天空下小憩的优雅睡美人的剪影。

Yunnan Military Academy

Kun Ming is an ancient city full of history. I stayed here for three days. In the first day afternoon, I visited the Yunnan Military Academy which was one of China’s most prestigious military institutions during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. Founded in 1909, the academy played a crucial role in shaping modern Chinese military history, producing many influential military leaders who contributed to key historical events, including the Xinhai Revolution (1911), the War of Resistance Against Japan (1937-1945), and the Chinese Civil War.

昆明是一座充满历史的古城。我在这里总共待了三天。游玩的第一天下午,我参观了云南讲武堂,它是清末民初中国最负盛名的军事院校。该学院成立于1909年,在塑造中国现代军事史方面发挥了至关重要的作用,培养了许多有影响力的军事领导人,这些人物在辛亥革命、抗日战争和国共内战等重大历史事件中产生了重大影响。

Often referred to as the “Cradle of Generals”, the academy trained thousands of officers, including notable figures like Zhu De and Ye Jianying. This is the training ground of soldiers in the history. Today, the Yunnan Military Academy Museum preserves its rich history. The well-preserved European-style architecture, along with exhibitions of historical documents, weapons, and uniforms, offers visitors a glimpse into the military evolution of contemporary China.

讲武堂被称为“将军的摇篮”,培养了数千名军官,其中包括朱德和叶剑英等著名人物。图中这里是历史上士兵的训练场。如今,这座博物馆保留了讲武堂丰富的历史以及保存完好的欧式建筑,众多历史文献、武器和制服的展览也让游客可以一睹中国近代军事史的演变。

Opposite to the Yunnan Military Academy, it is the Cui Lake which is one of Kunming’s most beautiful and historic parks. Often called the “Jade of Kunming”, this scenic lake is famous for its lush willow trees, lotus-covered waters, and flocks of migratory red-beaked seagulls in winter. Originally part of Dianchi Lake, Cui Lake was formed over centuries as water levels receded, leaving behind a collection of smaller interconnected lakes and ponds. During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, it became a favored spot for scholars and poets, who often gathered here for inspiration. In the Qing Dynasty, Cui Lake was expanded and developed into a formal park with pavilions and gardens, further enhancing its beauty.

讲武堂对面就是翠湖,是昆明最美最具历史意义的公园。这个风景秀丽的湖泊被称为“昆明的翡翠”,以其郁郁葱葱的柳树、荷花覆盖的水域和冬季成群迁徙的红嘴海鸥而闻名。翠湖最初是滇池的一部分,几个世纪以来随着水位下降而留下了一系列较小的相互连接的湖泊和池塘。元明时期,这里成为文人墨客的胜地,时常聚集于此,汲取灵感。清代,翠湖得到扩建,发展为亭台楼阁花园点缀的公园。

Stepping into Cui Lake Park, I was greeted by a scene of serene beauty. The emerald-green waters of the lake gently rippled under the breeze, reflecting the swaying weeping willows that line its banks. Their delicate branches trailed over the water, forming a natural curtain that dances with the wind. As I strolled along the stone bridges and wooden pavilions, I could find traditional bonsai trees and flowering plants arranged in elegant pots, showcasing the artistry of Chinese gardening. The cozy air was filled with the light fragrance of camellias and azaleas.

步入翠湖公园,映入我眼帘的是一幅宁静美丽的景象。翠绿的湖水在微风的吹拂下轻轻荡漾,倒映着岸边摇曳的垂柳。它们纤细的枝条拖曳在水面上,形成一道随风舞动的天然帷幕。漫步在石桥、木亭之间,传统的盆景和花卉植物优雅地摆放在盆中,展现了中国传统的园林艺术。宜人舒适的空气中弥漫着山茶花和杜鹃花的淡淡清香。

The gardens surrounding Cui Lake are not only famous for their serene landscapes and willow-lined pathways, but also for their exquisite traditional potted plants. These miniature landscapes, meticulously cultivated by skilled gardeners, reflect the elegance of Chinese horticulture and Kunming’s mild, spring-like climate that allows a rich variety of plant species to thrive. Lucky Bamboo is arranged in artistic formations, with intricate rock carvings, symbolizing peace, harmony, and prosperity.

翠湖周围的花园不仅以其宁静的风景和柳荫小径而闻名,其精美的传统盆栽也是一大特色。这些微缩景观由技艺高超的园丁精心打理,体现了中国园艺的优雅。丰富的植物物种在这里得以繁衍生息这也体现了昆明温和如春的气候。盆栽里的富贵竹排列整齐,石刻雕刻精美,也象征着平安和繁荣昌盛。

In summer, lotus flowers bloom across the lake’s surface, their pink and yellow petals contrasting against the deep green leaves. I took this poetic photo with super macro lens. This kind of lotus is called Nelumbo lutea, also known as the American Yellow Lotus. It is a rare species of lotus with soft pale-yellow petals. In the quiet after the rain, dragonflies hover above the water. A light breeze stirs the willow trees along the shore, sending tiny ripples across the lake. The lotus remains a symbol of purity and resilience, standing gracefully in the water.

夏季湖面上盛开着荷花,粉色和黄色的花瓣与深绿色的叶子形成鲜明对比。我用超微距镜头拍下了这张富有诗意的照片。这种荷花又名美国黄荷。它是一种稀有的莲花,花瓣柔软,呈淡黄色。雨后的寂静中,蜻蜓在水面上盘旋。微风吹拂岸边的柳树,湖面上泛起阵阵涟漪。莲花优雅地矗立在水中,是纯洁和坚韧的象征。

The birds hopped and fluttered across the park, pecking at the crumbs scattered by visitors. Some sat serenely beneath the willows, ruffling their feathers as they relaxed in the warmth of the sun. Their soft and rhythmic calls blended with the sounds of rustling leaves. There was a quiet beauty in watching the birds cozily eating together, as they were savoring the simple pleasures of life.

鸟儿在公园里跳跃飞舞,啄食着游客散落的面包屑。它们安静地栖息柳下,在温暖的阳光下梳理羽毛享受鸟生。轻柔而有节奏的叫声与树叶沙沙作响的声音交织在一起。目睹鸟儿们舒适地一起进食,享受着生活中简单的乐趣,有一种自然平和的美感。

When I walked through the street of Kunming, I passed several ancient buildings which were not tourist sites but having some historic meaning. The Confucious temple was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty and later expanded in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Lingxing Gate serves as the grand entrance to the Confucius Temple, embodying both spiritual significance and architectural beauty. As the first structure one encounters when approaching the temple, this ornate gate symbolizes respect for knowledge, wisdom, and Confucian ideals. Lingxing originates from ancient Chinese astronomy, referring to a mythical star believed to govern wisdom and intellect.

漫步在昆明的街道,我还经过了几座古老的建筑,它们虽然不是旅游景点,但具有一些历史意义。昆明文庙始建于元代,后来在明清时期进行了扩建。图中的棂星门是文庙的大门,兼具精神意义和建筑美学。作为走近文庙的必经之路,这座大门象征着对知识智慧和儒家思想的尊重。棂星起源于中国古代天文学,指的是一颗掌管智慧和才智的星神。

Confucius Temple

Kunming’s Confucius Temple served as an important educational and ceremonial center, where scholars and students would gather to study Confucian classics and take imperial exams in the history. The temple reflects the deep respect for Confucianism, embodying principles of morality, discipline, and scholarly pursuit. Dacheng Hall in this photo is the main hall, dedicated to Confucius, features elegant wooden beams, golden inscriptions, and a solemn statue of the Confucius. Many girls studying in school came here to take beautiful photos wearing traditional Chinese clothes, characterized by wide sleeves, layered robes, crossed collars and delicate embroidery.

昆明孔庙是历史上重要的教育和礼仪中心,文人学子们聚集在这里研习儒家经典,参加科举考试。孔庙体现了对儒家思想的尊崇,以及对道德、纪律和学术追求的原则。照片中的大成殿是供奉孔子的正殿,有优雅的木梁、金色的碑文和庄严的孔子雕像。许多上学的女孩身着宽袖、多层长袍、交叉领和精致的刺绣为特点的汉服来这里拍摄美丽动人的照片。

This monument near a simple street is very small but it recorded the most miserable and sore history for Chinese. Usually, people will not notice it even if pass by. However, I visited it purposely and took this photo. Everyone who is familiar with Chinese history will feel a stabbing pain in the chest when visiting this monument.

图中的这个永历帝纪念碑位于一条简陋的街道旁,规模很小,却记载了汉人最悲惨痛苦的历史。通常游人即使路过也不会注意到它。然而我特意去参观并拍下了这张照片。每个熟悉中国历史的人看到这个纪念碑都会感到胸口一阵刺痛。

Three hundred years ago, the last Dynasty led by Chinese – Ming fell when the Manchu-led Qing Dynasty captured Beijing in 1644. However, remnants of the Ming loyalists like Zheng Chenggong, refusing to accept Qing rule, formed a series of Southern Ming governments across the south, with Zhu Youlang becoming one of the last claimants to the Ming throne. Finally, the military force of Qing pushed deep into Yunnan which was the last territory of Ming and the emperor Yongli was strangled with a bowstring near the Cui Lake, marking the end of the Ming imperial bloodline. This monument stands as a solemn reminder of the fall of the Ming Dynasty and the resistance against the Qing conquest in the 17th century. Afterwards, the whole China was under the control of Manchu until the revolution in 1911.

1644 年满族人建立的清朝攻占北京,历史上最后一个由汉人领导的王朝明朝悲惨灭亡。然而许多像郑成功这样的明朝死忠拒绝接受清朝统治,在南方建立了一系列南明政权,永历帝朱由榔成为明朝皇室的最后遗珠。后来清朝的军队深入南明最后的领土云南,永历皇帝在昆明翠湖附近被弓弦勒死,标志着明朝皇室血脉的终结。这座纪念碑如今仍然提醒游客明朝的灭亡和 17 世纪反清的斗争。至此后,直到 1911 年辛亥革命胜利, 整个中国一直处于满族的控制之下。

When I read this story, I felt a deep sorrow since Ming dynasty had controlled a larger piece of territory and how did they lose? I think that there are several reasons. Firstly, The Ming Dynasty had been facing serious internal problems by the early 17th century. Corruption, economic mismanagement, and factionalism of Donglin party weakened the central authority. Secondly, the Ming military was weakened seriously by inadequate funding since the central government could not collect enough tax from local authorities. Thirdly, the emperor Chongzhen was really a poor leader and could not believe candidly in his generals like Yuan Chonghuan and every prime ministers. Finally, the fall of the Ming was caused by a combination of internal decay, poor leadership, and external pressures. In contrast, the Qing were more unified, militarily superior, and able to rule the whole China.

以史为鉴可以知得失,这段历史着实令我感到深深的悲哀,明朝控制了如此大的一块领土,他们是如何最终失败的呢?我认为有几个原因。首先,在17世纪初,明朝已经面临严重的内部问题。腐败、经济管理不善和东林党的派系斗争削弱了中央权力。其次,由于中央政府无法从地方当局征收足够的税收,明朝军队的战斗力因资金不足而被严重削弱。第三,崇祯皇帝着实是一个糟糕的领导者,他一直不相信也不能坦诚对待他任命的大将,比如袁崇焕以及各位内阁首相。最后,在我看来明朝的覆灭是内部衰败、领导不力和外部压力共同造成的。相比之下,当时的清朝更加团结一心,军事上更强大,所以能够最终统治整个中国。

Of course it is important keep a better mood during travel. Afterwards I got rid of the bad memory immersed in the history three hundred years ago and continued my travel of second day in the old town of Guandu. The earliest historical records of Guandu date back to the Nanzhao kingdom. Guandu acted as a ferry and also a linking point in the region. I liked the paifang at the entrance. It could best represent the Chinese culture. The roof is curved with eaves that flare upwards and the columns of the paifang are adorned with detailed carvings, depicting dragons.

旅行中保持好心情当然是最重要,接下来我将沉浸在三百年前历史的伤痛回忆抛之脑后,继续第二天在官渡古镇的旅行。这个古镇最早的记载可以追溯到南诏国。官渡这个渡口是当时这个区域的集散地。我很喜欢入口处的牌坊,它最能代表中国的文化。牌坊顶呈弧形,檐向上张开,牌坊的柱子上装饰着精细的龙雕刻。

Miaozhan Temple

When I arrived at the town in the morning, this historic building of unique style drew my attention. The Vajra Pagoda at Miaozhan Temple is really a historically significant Buddhist structure. The Vajra meaning “diamond” is a sacred symbol in Buddhism, represents indestructible strength and spiritual power. The Vajra Pagoda is over 700 years old. Its construction reflects the fusion of Han Chinese and Indian Buddhist architectural styles, which is spread along the ancient Tea Horse Road. The layout of the pagoda includes its central tower surrounded by smaller stupas.

早上抵达小镇时,这座风格独特的历史建筑吸引了我的注意。妙瞻寺的金刚塔是一座颇具历史意义的佛教建筑。金刚是佛教中的神圣象征,代表着坚不可摧的力量和精神。金刚塔已有700多年历史。它的建造反映了汉族和印度佛教建筑风格的融合,这种风格在古老的茶马古道上广为流传。这座金刚塔的布局包括中央的大塔,以及周围环绕着较小的舍利塔。

Many restaurants in this old town sells the local delicacies and street food. Among them the most famous food must be Yunnan’s signature dish, crossing-the-bridge noodles.

古镇里有很多餐厅出售当地特色小吃。其中最著名的美食当属云南的招牌美食——过桥米线。

The dish’s poetic name comes from a heartwarming folk tale. Long ago, a scholar studied in seclusion on an island pavilion, preparing for the imperial exams. His wife brought him meals daily, but the food often turned cold by the time she crossed the bridge to reach him. One day, she discovered that boiling chicken fat could seal the heat of the broth. She carried the hot soup, noodles, and ingredients separately, assembling the dish on-site so her husband could enjoy a fresh, hot meal. Afterwards, the dish was called “Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles”, symbolizing love, dedication, and nourishment.’

这道菜的诗意名字来自一个温馨的民间故事。很久以前,一位书生在一座岛上的亭子里闭门读书,准备科举考试。他的妻子每天会给他送饭,但当她过了桥后,饭菜往往都已经凉了。有一天,她发现煮沸的鸡油可以封住汤的热度。于是她把热汤、面条和配料分开给丈夫带来,在当场把它们混合,这样她的丈夫就可以享用一顿热腾腾的饭菜了。后来,这道菜被称为“过桥米线”,它也象征着爱情和奉献。

The soul of the dish is the scalding broth, often made from chicken bones, pork bones, and ham, simmered for hours. Soft, silky rice noodles are served separately and added to the soup just before eating. A variety of ingredients like chicken, pork, fish, quail eggs, tofu skin, bean sprouts, spinach, Chinese chives, lettuce are served raw on small plates, ready to cook in the hot broth.

这道菜的灵魂在于滚烫的汤,汤头通常由鸡骨、猪骨和火腿熬制而成,再炖上几个小时。柔软丝滑的米粉单独上桌,食用前加入汤中。鸡肉、猪肉、鱼、鹌鹑蛋、豆腐皮、豆芽、菠菜、韭菜、生菜等各种食材都盛放在小盘子里,随时准备下入热汤中煮熟。

In the afternoon, I had a trek in the Western Hill Park. The park is a green paradise with dense forests, winding trails, and vivid wildflowers. This hill is not so tall. This kind of scenic paths made of wood wound through the forest, leading me to temples and caves uphill. It was a cloudy day, and the temperature is suitable for hike in the mountains.

下午,我选择在西山公园徒步。公园里是一片绿色天堂,森林茂密,小径蜿蜒曲折,野花盛开。这座山海拔并不高。这种用木头制成的观景小路蜿蜒穿过森林,引导我上山前往各处寺庙和洞穴。这一天是阴天,气温非常适合在山上徒步。

Taihua Temple

Travelers can choose to take bus or walk towards the top of hill. However, if they take bus, they will miss the beauties along the hill way. For me, I tried to discover every point on the way. The Taihua Temple founded in Yuan Dynasty in the photo is a tranquil Buddhist sanctuary. Surrounded by ancient trees, blooming flowers, and misty mountain air, Taihua Temple offers visitors a serene escape from the city’s bustle.

游客可以选择乘坐巴士或步行前往山顶。不过如果乘坐巴士,他们会错过山路沿途的美景。对我来说不会错过探索沿途的每一个景点。照片中建于元朝的太华寺是一座宁静的佛教圣地。太华寺周围环境古树环绕,鲜花盛开,山间空气迷蒙,为游客提供远离城市喧嚣的宁静之地。

Taihua Temple is famous for its beautiful courtyard gardens. Walking through the temple grounds feels like stepping into a living painting. Towering cypresses and pines, some over 600 years old, shade the stone pathways. Small pools with lotus flowers and koi fish add to the temple’s sense of tranquil harmony.

太华寺以其美丽的庭院花园而闻名。漫步在寺庙内,仿佛在观摩一幅生动的画作。院里高耸的柏松有些已有600多年的历史,为石板路遮荫。小水池里盛开着莲花,养着锦鲤,为寺庙增添了宁静和谐的气息。

I enjoyed the gentle rustle of leaves and chirping of birds. When I gazed at the lotus in the pond, my minds were scattered like the droplets of rain sprinkled on the leaves. My brain was filled by one famous Chinese poetry: 骤雨过,似琼珠乱撒,打遍新荷。人生百年有几,念良辰美景,休放虚过。It means: After the sudden rain, like scattered jade pearls, beating upon the fresh lotus leaves. In a fleeting life of a hundred years, how many such moments remain? Treasure these beautiful times — let them not slip away in vain.

我欣赏着树叶沙沙作响和鸟儿叽叽喳喳的声音。当我凝视着池塘里的荷花时,我的思绪像雨滴一样散落在叶子上。我的脑海里涌现出了一首元曲:骤雨过,似琼珠乱撒,打遍新荷。人生百年有几,念良辰美景,休放虚过。人生短暂百年,能有多少这样的瞬间?珍惜这些美好的时光,不要让它们白白逝去。

For me, travel is like a way of relaxation after tedious work. Treasure these beautiful moments on the way of travel and treasure what I have owned is so important.

对我来说,旅行就像是繁琐工作之后的一种放松方式,珍惜旅行途中这些美好的瞬间,珍惜自己当下所拥有的一切,这很重要。

Hidden among the ancient trees and serene courtyards of Taihua Temple, a cluster of weathered stupas rises quietly, their surfaces draped in soft green moss. Overhanging ancient pines and cypress trees filter the sunlight, casting a dappled glow on the stupas. Dewdrops after rain bead on the moss, shimmering like pearls. The moist air fills with the earthy fragrance of soil, stabbing my nose.

太华寺古树成荫,庭院幽静,一簇饱经风霜的佛塔静静耸立,塔面覆盖着柔软的绿色苔藓。高耸的古松古柏透入一缕阳光,在佛塔上投下斑驳的光辉。雨后的露珠落在苔藓上,像珍珠一样闪闪发光。潮湿的空气中弥漫着泥土香气,扑鼻而来。

Perched high on the summit of Western Hills, the Dragon Gate is a breathtaking stone-carved grotto and archway. This was the destination of my trip. The path to Dragon Gate is an adventurous climb, with steep staircases and stone steps hugging the cliff. I took this memorable photo on the narrow passageways winding along the cliff, and behind me it was the inscription of two words Dragon Gate.

龙门位于西山最高处,是一座令人叹为观止的石窟和拱门。这是我此行的最终目的地。通往龙门的路是一条冒险之路,陡峭的楼梯和石阶紧贴悬崖。我在沿着悬崖蜿蜒的狭窄通道上拍下了这张令人难忘的照片,我的身后就是“龙门”两字的铭文。

Dragon Gate

Stepping through the Dragon Gate feels like walking into the sky. The ledge juts out over the mountainside. Dianchi Lake at the bottom stretches out like a giant mirror, reflecting the changing hues of the sky. The landscape seems to merge with the horizon, making it feel as if I was standing at the edge of the world.

穿过龙门,仿佛就像在天空中漫游。岩架在西山山腰上突兀而出。山脚的滇池就像一面巨大的镜子一样向远方延伸,反射出天空不断变化的色调。远处的风景似乎与地平线融为一体,让我感觉自己此刻就站在世界的边缘。

Yuantong Temple

For my trip of third day, I visited this Yuantong temple which is the oldest and largest Buddhist temple in the city, with a history spanning over 1,200 years. I liked its tranquil atmosphere, ornate architecture, and harmonious integration with nature. Located in the city center, it is a nice place for relaxation.

昆明之行的第三天,我参观了圆通寺,它是这座城市最古老规模最大的佛教寺庙,拥有1200多年的历史。我喜欢它宁静的氛围、华丽的建筑以及与自然的和谐融合。它位于市中心,亦是一个放松的好地方。

Unlike many temples built on mountain peaks, Yuantong Temple sits at a low point. The landscape here left me a deep impression. A large pond with blooming lotus flowers surrounds the main hall, connected by stone bridges that lead visitors over the water. The temple courtyards are adorned with ancient trees, meticulously pruned bonsai, and stone lanterns. Like other places in Kunming, the temple is adorned with many beautiful flowers of different colors.

与许多建在山顶上的寺庙不同,圆通寺地势较低。这里的风景给我留下了深刻的印象。大殿周围是盛开莲花的大池塘,池塘由石桥连接引导游客继续前行。寺庙庭院里种满了古树、装饰这精心修剪的盆景和石灯笼。和昆明的其他地方一样,寺庙里也种满了各种颜色的美丽花朵,尽显春城本色。

Yuantong Temple has blend of architectural styles, where traditional Chinese temple design meets the graceful elegance of Thai influences. This fusion reflects Yunnan’s historical connection with Southeast Asia through trade, religion, and cultural exchange. The intricate carvings on the walls and mutiple upward-curving eaves, resembling the multi-tiered roofs of Thai temples.

圆通寺的建筑风格融合了多种风格,传统中国寺庙设计与泰国风格的优雅融合在一起。这种融合反映了云南与东南亚在贸易、宗教和文化交流方面的历史联系。墙壁上精雕细琢,向上弯曲的多层屋檐类似于泰国寺庙的屋顶。

There is a natural rock formation located within the grounds of Yuantong Temple. Its poetic name means screen embracing the sunset. The Danxia-style cliffs behind the main hall serve as a natural backdrop, glowing in colorful hues as if the mountain itself is a celestial canvas capturing the changing colors of the sky. Danxia Landform is a kind of red sandstone formations shaped by millions of years of weathering and erosion, creating steep cliffs, layered ridges, and vivid colors. The landscape is extraordinary with the colors of nature blended seamlessly with the calm elegance of this temple.

圆通寺内有一块天然形成的岩石。其诗意的名字纳霞屏意为拥抱日落的屏风。主殿后面的丹霞悬崖是天然的背景,散发着五彩缤纷的色彩,仿佛山峰本身就是一幅天体画布,捕捉着天空变幻的色彩。丹霞地貌是一种红色砂岩地貌,经过数百万年的风化和侵蚀,形成了陡峭的悬崖、层层叠叠的山脊和鲜艳的色彩形成了非凡的景色,大自然的色彩与这座寺庙的宁静优雅完美地融合一体。

The weather of Kun Ming is capricious, with clear skies turning into thunderstorms within minutes. Sometimes it is common to see the sky being split, with half bathed in golden light and half shadowed by drifting clouds. This photo was taken in the park of Daguan Tower which was the last scenic spot visited in Kun Ming.

昆明的天气变化无常,常常晴空万里后转眼间就雷雨交加。这种天气下的天空仿佛被分成两半,一半沐浴在金色的阳光中,一半被飘浮的云彩所笼罩,这张照片是在大观楼公园拍摄的,这也是昆明之旅的最后一个景点。

Daguan Tower

The Daguan Tower is a historical pavilion standing proudly on the shores of Dianchi Lake. It was first constructed during the Kangxi reign in the Qing Dynasty. Sun Ranweng, a Qing Dynasty scholar, wrote a 180 characters couplet that immortalized the tower in Chinese literary history.

大观楼是一座屹立在滇池之畔的古楼阁,始建于清康熙年间,清代文人孙染翁曾为大观楼题撰写了一副180字的对联,使大观楼在中国文学史上永垂不朽。

The content of couplet is :

这幅对联的内容是:

五百里滇池奔来眼底,披襟岸帻,喜茫茫空阔无边。看:东骧神骏,西翥灵仪,北走蜿蜒,南翔缟素。高人韵士何妨选胜登临。趁蟹屿螺洲,梳裹就风鬟雾鬓;更苹天苇地,点缀些翠羽丹霞,莫辜负:四围香稻,万顷晴沙,九夏芙蓉,三春杨柳。

数千年往事注到心头,把酒凌虚,叹滚滚英雄谁在?想:汉习楼船,唐标铁柱,宋挥玉斧,元跨革囊。伟烈丰功费尽移山心力。尽珠帘画栋,卷不及暮雨朝云;便断碣残碑,都付与苍烟落照。只赢得:几杵疏钟,半江渔火,两行秋雁,一枕清霜。

Couplet is a form of traditional Chinese literature, a pair of lines in poetry that usually rhyme and have the same or similar length and rhythm. This couplet is known as the first long couplet in the long history of 3000 years. It captures the grand scale of the landscape, while also reflecting on the rise and fall of previous dynasties — blending natural beauty of Kun Ming with historical contemplation.

对联是中国传统文学的一种形式,是一对押韵的诗句,长度和韵脚相同。这副对联被称为3000年来历史上的第一长联。它描述了风景的宏伟,同时也反映了前朝的兴衰——将昆明的自然美景与历史沉淀融为一体。

The tower offers a sweeping view of the lake’s shimmering waters, with boats gliding across the surface. The gardens surrounding the tower are dotted with lotus ponds, which bloom in summer. Graceful willow trees hang over the stone-paved paths, their branches dipping into the water, creating a poetic atmosphere. It is a perfect place where poets mused, scholars sighed, and travelers pondered life’s impermanence.

大观楼眺望滇池风景,湖水波光粼粼,船只穿梭其间。周围的花园里点缀着荷花池,夏季荷花盛开。优美的柳树垂悬在石板路上,枝条垂入水中,营造出诗情画意。这里是诗人沉思冥想、学者感叹历代兴亡和旅行者思考人生无常的绝佳场所。

As the sun set over Dianchi Lake, casting golden reflections on the water, and the Western Hills faded into soft silhouettes, it’s hard not to feel a gentle tug at the heart. Now when I write this blog, every photo is more like a souvenir of beauty and wonder of this extraordinary voyage. This is the meaning of travel, snapshot of every moment of passing with memorable photo. Kunming, with its blossoming flowers, ancient histories, and amazing landscapes, is a city that lingers in my soul long even after I have left.

夕阳西下,在滇池水面上投下金色的倒影,西山的轮廓的剪影渐渐暗淡,很难不感到内心一阵温柔的牵动。现在当我写这篇博客时,每一张照片都更像是这次旅程的一段美好鲜活的回忆。这就是旅行的意义,用令人难忘的照片记录下每一个过往的回忆。昆明,繁花似锦,历史悠久,风景秀丽,是一座在我别离后仍久久萦绕在我灵魂中的城市。

Explore Taiyuan: Dragon City of Shanxi’s Rich History

探索山西龙城太原的悠久历史

Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province in northern China, is a city with a rich history, stretching back over 2,500 years. As a vital political, economic, and military hub, Taiyuan has played a crucial role in the defense of northern China throughout history. Known as “Dragon City,” it was a strategic stronghold during many dynasties, guarding the northern borders and serving as a key trading center due to its strategic position along the Fen River.

太原是山西省的省会,是一座历史悠久的城市,距今已有2500多年的历史。作为重要的政治、经济和军事中心,太原在历史上一直对中国北方地区的防御起到至关重要的作用。太原也被称为“龙城” ,是多个朝代的战略要地,供卫着北部边境,并因其位于汾河沿岸的战略位置而成为重要的贸易中心。

Historically, Taiyuan has been an essential city for both defense and industry. Its location—surrounded by mountains with access to fertile plains—made it ideal for military fortifications and agriculture. During the Tang Dynasty, Taiyuan was the birthplace of the dynasty’s founder, Emperor Li Yuan, and thus held immense symbolic importance as the “cradle” of the Tang. This the bronze statue of Emperor Li Shimin, also known as Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty, accompanied by several of his loyal generals like Yuchi Gong who served as Li Shimin’s personal guard and became a legendary figure in Chinese folklore, sometimes represented as a door god in Chinese culture. Li Shimin, renowned for his military prowess and strategic brilliance, was instrumental in establishing and expanding the Tang Dynasty, which became one of China’s most prosperous and influential dynasties.

历史上,太原一直是国防和工业的重地。太原地理位置优越,四周群山环绕,可直通肥沃的平原,是军事要塞和农业生产的理想之地。太原是唐朝开国皇帝李渊的出生地,因此也被称作唐朝的龙兴之地。这是唐太宗李世民的龙兴晋阳雕塑,身边簇拥尉迟恭等几位忠诚的大将,尉迟恭曾担任李世民的私人护卫,后来成为中国民间传说中的传奇人物,在中国文化中被视为门神。李世民以其军事才能和战略才华而闻名,在建立和扩大唐朝版图方面发挥了重要作用,唐朝也成为中国最繁荣和最有影响力的王朝。

Taiyuan is a fascinating blend of the ancient and the modern. I visited it during my summer trip in July 2023. Nearly all the buildings in this city looked very modern. However, tourists can still explore some historical relics, such as the Jinci Temple and Twin Pagoda Temple, which offer a glimpse into its past, while the city’s industrial areas and modern infrastructure reflect its ongoing role in China’s development.

太原是一座古老与现代交融的城市。2023年7月,我在夏季旅行中顺路参观了太原。这座城市的几乎所有建筑看起来都非常现代。不过,游客仍然可以探索例如晋祠和双塔寺等历史遗迹,这些遗迹可以让人们一窥太原的过去,而如今太原的工业区和鳞次栉比的现代基础设施则反映了它在中国现代发展中持续的作用。

Jinci Park

The Jinci Park is a renowned cultural and historical attraction located in the outskirts of Taiyuan. It is centered around the Jinci Temple, an ancient complex that dates back more than 1,400 years, but the park extends beyond the temple itself, encompassing a vast area of beautiful gardens, historic structures, and natural landscapes. The place with large history meaning is quite meaningful for Chinese history fans. I visited it from the southern part of the park.

晋祠公园是太原郊区著名的文化和历史景点。它以晋祠为中心,这是一座拥有1400多年历史的古老建筑群,公园的占地范围超出了晋祠本身,还包括大片美丽的花园、历史建筑和自然景观。这个地方有着深厚的历史意义,对中国古代史爱好者来说意义非凡。我是从公园的南端开始参观。

The Temple of Duke Wen of Jin was located here. Duke Wen of Jin was a prominent ruler of the Jin State during the Spring and Autumn Period. It was a chaotic period, and China has not become un unified country. There were many small states, and Jing was one of the powerful states. Duke Wen’s life was marked by adversity. After a prolonged exile caused by internal political struggles, he eventually returned to the Jin State and reclaimed his throne with the support of loyal allies. Under his leadership, Jin became a dominant power. His victory in the Battle of Chengpu (632 BCE) against the State of Chu solidified his position, earning him widespread respect as one of the five most powerful king during the Spring and Autumn Period.

晋文公庙就位于此处。晋文公是春秋时期晋国的一位杰出的君主。当时中国还未成为一个统一的国家,有许多小国林立,而晋国是其中一个强大的国家。晋文公的一生命运多蹇。由于内部政治斗争,他长期流亡国外,最终在忠诚部下的支持下回到晋国,夺回了王位。在他的领导下,晋国成为了一个强大的国家。他在城濮之战(公元前 632 年)中战胜了楚国,巩固了他的地位,并被尊为春秋五霸。

The Temple of Duke Wen of Jin

The temple reflects a combination of ancient Chinese architectural traditions. While its original construction dates back many centuries, the current structures have undergone restorations during later dynasties, including the Ming and Qing dynasty. The temple’s design embodies classical Chinese aesthetics, with wooden halls, intricately carved beams, and tiled roofs. Within the temple, visitors can find stone tablets and inscriptions that recount the life and achievements of Duke Wen. These texts provide invaluable insights into the political and military strategies that defined his reign.

这寺庙体现了中国古代建筑的融合。虽然其最初的建筑可追溯到许多世纪以前,但目前看到的建筑在后来的朝代(包括明朝和清朝)都经过了修复。寺庙的设计体现了中国古典美学,有木制大厅、精雕细琢的横梁和瓦片屋顶。在寺庙内,游客可以看到石碑和碑文,这些碑文讲述了文公的生平和成就。这些文字为了解文公统治时期的政治和军事战略提供了宝贵的见解。

Xia Sheng Si

Xia Sheng Si also known as the Temple of the Earthly Birth, is a lesser-known site. This temple is unique in its dedication, focusing on the spiritual connection between the divine and the mortal realm, particularly in relation to the Earthly Mother or local deities believed to oversee human life and nature. In ancient Chinese beliefs, temples like Xia Sheng Si are often built to honor deities responsible for fertility and agriculture. The two stone lions at the gate are a common feature in Chinese architecture and are iconic symbols of protection. When I passed by, I touched them for good luck, as they were believed to bring blessings and ward off misfortune.

下生寺又名地生庙,是一个鲜为人知的景点。这座寺庙的供奉方式独一无二,注重神与人之间的精神联系,尤其是人与地母(或被认为掌管生命和自然的当地神灵)的关系。在古代中国信仰中,像下生寺这样的寺庙通常是为了纪念负责生育和农业的神而建造的。门口的两只石狮则是中国建筑的常见特征,象征庇护。当我经过时,我特意摸摸它们以求好运,相信石狮会带来祝福并避开厄运。

The central hall of Xia Sheng Si contains statues and tablets dedicated to the Earthly Mother or local guardian deities. These figures are typically depicted as benevolent protectors of the land and people. While Jinci Temple primarily honors the Holy Mother of the Jin State, Xia Sheng Si complements this by focusing on the nurturing aspects of nature and its direct influence on human life.

下生寺的中央大厅内有供奉地母或地方守护神的雕像和牌位。它们通常被描绘成土地和人民的仁慈保护者。虽然晋祠主要供奉着晋国圣母,但下生寺则通过关注自然的养育方面及其对人类生活的直接影响来进行补充。

The Bell Tower in Xia Sheng Si exemplifies traditional Chinese architecture, featuring multi-tiered, wooden structure with upturned eaves. It is a high platform, elevating the bell to a prominent position where its sound can travel across the temple grounds. This kind of architecture can be seen in every Chinese temple.

下生寺的钟楼是中国传统建筑的典型代表,采用多层木结构,檐口向上。钟楼是一个高台高高安置着大钟,钟声可以传遍整个寺庙。这种建筑在中国的每座寺庙中都可以看到。

Beyond its historical structures, the Jinci Park is known for its lush gardens, tranquil ponds, and shaded pathways. The centerpiece of the garden is a large, calm lake reflecting the surrounding trees, pavilions, and blue sky. The lake called nine dragons is fed by the Spring of the Immortals, a natural spring that has flowed continuously for centuries. The crystal-clear water symbolizes purity and life, an important theme in traditional Chinese gardens. Willows line the lake’s edge, their long branches gracefully dipping into the water, creating a poetic and serene scene.

除了历史建筑外,晋祠公园还以其郁郁葱葱的花园、宁静的池塘和林荫小道而闻名。花园的中心是一个平静的湖泊,倒映着周围的绿树、亭台楼阁和蓝天。九龙湖的水源来自天然泉眼难老泉,几百年来一直生生不息源源不绝。清澈的湖水象征着纯洁和生命力,这也是中国传统园林中的一个重要主题。慵懒的柳树排列在湖边,长长的枝条优雅地垂入水中,营造出诗情画意。

The garden is filled with ancient cypress and pine trees, some of which are over a thousand years old, providing shade and adding to the historical ambiance.

园内古柏古松遍布,有的树龄逾千年,遮阴蔽日,更增添了历史气息。

Lake of nine dragons

Scattered throughout the garden are elegant pavilions and gazebos, offering places for visitors to rest and take in the scenic views. Winding stone pathways lead visitors through the garden, encouraging a leisurely pace to fully appreciate its beauty. Artificial rockeries, a staple of Chinese garden design, add texture and depth to the landscape. These rocks, carefully arranged, mimic the appearance of natural mountain formations and symbolize stability and endurance.

花园各处散布着优雅的亭台楼阁,为游客提供休息和欣赏美景的地方。蜿蜒的石路引导游客层层穿过花园,悠闲地欣赏花园的美景。人造假山也是中国园林设计的主要元素,为景观增添了质感。这些精心布置的岩石模仿了自然山体的外观,象征着坚韧。

The Tang Garden is a beautifully divided landscaped area inspired maybe by the sophisticated garden styles of the Tang Dynasty. The Tang-inspired pavilions within the garden are characterized by their intricate wooden carvings and upturned eaves. Rockeries, bamboo groves, and flowering plants are frequently used in this garden.

唐园是一个风景优美的园林区,其设计灵感可能源自唐代的精致园林风格。园内的亭台楼阁以精致的木雕和上翘的屋檐为特色,并广泛使用了假山、竹林和开花植物作为装饰。

Tang Garden

The Tang Dynasty is often regarded as a golden age of Chinese culture. The garden includes a serene pond and small stone bridges and steppingstones cross the pond, invites visitors to pause and enjoy the tranquil scenery from different vantage points. Walking along the garden’s stone paths, I could admire the lotus flowers up close, hear the gentle rustle of leaves, and watch koi fish weaving through the submerged stems. The large, emerald-green leaves float gracefully on the surface. Despite growing in muddy water, the lotus emerges clean and beautiful, symbolizing the ability to remain untainted by worldly impurities. So, lotus is revered in Chinese culture and often associated with purity and many poems drew inspiration from lotus flowers.

唐代通常被认为是中国文化的黄金时代。唐园花园里有一个宁静的小池塘,池塘上横跨着小石桥和踏脚石,让游客驻足欣赏,从不同的角度欣赏这片宁静的风景。沿着花园的石路漫步,我可以近距离欣赏含苞欲放的荷花,聆听树叶轻柔的沙沙声,观看锦鲤在沉下浮上的叶茎中穿梭。宽大而翠绿的荷叶优雅地漂浮在水面上。尽管生长在泥水中,荷花却纯净高雅,象征着不受世俗杂质污染的能力。荷花在中国文化中备受推崇,常常与纯洁联系在一起,许多诗歌也都是从荷花中汲取灵感。

Lingyun Ge

Lingyun Ge is a towering structure that offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. is a multi-tiered wooden pavilion with an imposing yet graceful presence. Its name, “Soaring Clouds,” suggests its lofty position and the feeling of elevation one experiences when climbing it. The structure features intricately carved beams, colorful murals, and decorative eaves, showcasing the craftsmanship of traditional Chinese architecture. It was historically used as a place for scholars, monks, and visitors to draw inspiration from nature and create poetry here.

凌云阁是一座高耸的建筑,可俯瞰周围景观。它是一座多层木结构亭子,气势宏伟,又不失优雅。它的名字暗示了高耸的位置以及攀登时体验到的升华感。该建筑以精雕细琢的横梁、色彩缤纷的壁画和装饰性屋檐为特色,展示了中国传统建筑的工艺。历史上,这里曾是各种文人墨客僧侣游客从大自然汲取灵感并创作诗歌的地方。

In ancient Chinese garden, travelers can always see this kind of loft building with a tunnel at the ground level, which allows for pedestrian passage beneath the structure. It is a two-story brick loft, constructed using traditional Chinese masonry techniques. The upper floors feature small, lattice windows and ornamental brickwork. Positioned along a main pathway, it acts as a transition point, guiding visitors to the main gate of Jingci temple.

中国古代园林中,游客总能看到这种阁楼建筑,底层设有隧道,方便行人从建筑下方通过。这是一座两层砖砌阁楼,采用传统砌筑技术建造而成。上层设有小格子窗和装饰性砖砌结构。它位于主干道沿线引导游客前往晋祠的正门。

In front of the main gate of Jingci Temple, there is an array of bridges constructed from gray or white stone, with elegantly carved balustrades and decorative patterns. The intricate carvings of auspicious symbols, such as dragons and phoenixes are believed to bring good fortune and spiritual protection. The bridges are positioned directly in front of the temple’s main gate, creating a sense of grandeur and symmetry. The similar design can be seen in the Tiananmen square.

晋祠正门前有一排装饰精美的雕刻栏杆和图案的灰白色石头建造的桥梁。古人相信带有龙凤等吉祥符号的精雕细琢能带来好运。这些桥梁位于正门的前方,营造出一种宏伟和对称的感觉。天在著名的天安门广场上也可以看到类似的设计。

Hall of Holy Mother

The Jinci temple origins date back to the Western Zhou Dynasty (11th century BCE – 771 BCE), although much of its current structure reflects later periods, including the Northern Wei, Tang, Song, and Ming Dynasties. Originally built to honor Shuyu which is the founding ruler of the ancient Jin State, Jinci served as a shrine dedicated to the Holy Mother of Jin later. This is the main hall of this temple. It is one of the few surviving Song Dynasty wooden structures in China, making it an invaluable resource for studying ancient Chinese architecture and construction techniques.

晋祠的起源可追溯到西周时期,但其大部分现有建筑反映了包括北魏、唐、宋和明朝时期的建筑风格。晋祠最初是为了纪念古代晋国的开国君王唐叔虞而建,后来成为了纪念晋国圣母的神殿。图中是晋祠的主殿。它是中国少数幸存的宋代木结构建筑,是研究中国古代建筑技术的宝贵资源。

The dragon carvings on the columns of the Hall are extraordinary examples of Song Dynasty artistry. The dragons are carved in high relief, giving them a three-dimensional, lifelike appearance. Each dragon appears to be in motion, coiling around the columns with an energetic sense of power. Their claws, depicted with sharp, grasping talons, clutch at the columns. The dragons’ faces are particularly expressive, with fierce eyes, flaring nostrils, and open mouths revealing sharp teeth and long, curling tongues.

The placement of the dragon carvings on multiple columns creates a sense of balance and harmony within the hall. In Chinese mythology, dragons are believed to control rivers and rain. Their carvings in the Hall of the Holy Mother highlight the temple’s connection to water, particularly the nearby Spring of the Immortals, which nourishes the complex.

晋祠大殿柱子上的盘龙雕是宋代艺术的杰出典范。这种柱子采用高浮雕设计,立体逼真。每条龙都动感十足,盘绕在柱子上,充满压迫力。龙爪锋利,紧抓着柱子。龙的面部表情特别生动,眼神凶狠,咧开嘴巴,露出锋利的牙齿和长而卷曲的舌头。

盘龙雕被安置在大厅多个柱子上,营造出一种平衡和谐的感觉。在中国神话中,龙被视为控制着河流、雨水的主神。圣母殿的盘龙雕则凸显了晋祠与水的联系,尤其是这个大殿附近的难老泉,它滋养了整个建筑群。

Inside the hall stands a life-sized clay statue of the Holy Mother, honored as a protective deity and matron of the ancient Jin State. The statue is made of painted clay, a medium that allowed for fine detailing and vibrant coloration. Her robes are elaborately adorned with flowing patterns and textures, reflecting the high status of her divine role. These sculptures made in Song Dynasty are celebrated for their lifelike appearance and intricate details.

主殿内矗立着一尊真人大小的圣母泥塑,圣母被尊为古代晋国的守护神。雕像由彩绘粘土制成,这种材料可以体现精准的细节和鲜艳的色彩。圣母的长袍上流畅的图案和纹理装饰精美,彰显圣母的崇高地位。这些宋代雕塑因其栩栩如生的外观和复杂的细节而闻名于世。

Flanking the Holy Mother are 42 life-sized attendant statues, each with a distinct role and character. These attendants include officials, warriors, and maidens. The statues are renowned for their realism, a hallmark of Song Dynasty sculpture. The artists paid meticulous attention to facial expressions, body proportions, and the texture of garments. Though the colors have faded over time, traces of red, gold, blue, and green paint still remain. The intricate designs on the robes and accessories demonstrate the high level of Chinese craftsmanship one thousand years ago.

圣母两侧是42尊真人大小的侍女雕像,每尊雕像都有不同的角色和性格。这些侍女包括办事员、武卫和服侍圣母的仆人。这些雕像以写实而闻名,写实风也是宋代雕塑的一大特色。艺术家对面部表情、身体比例和服装质地非常考究。虽然随着时间的推移,雕像的颜色已经褪色,但红金色蓝绿色的颜料痕迹仍然残留。长袍的配饰上复杂的图案也向我们展示了一千年前中国工艺的高超水平。

Twin Cypress Trees

Jinci Temple is famous for three wonders: Maid Statues in the Hall of the Holy Mother, The Spring of the Immortals, and the Twin Cypress Trees. They are the unique cultural treasure. In this picture, one of the two ancient cypress trees stand near the Hall of the Holy Mother. It is estimated to be over 3,000 years old, making them some of the oldest trees in China. Now both trees are so old that they need a metallic pole to support them. These trees are seen as symbols of eternal life. They have survived countless historical events, embodying the resilience of Chinese civilization.

晋祠以三绝闻名:圣母殿侍女像、难老泉和双柏。它们是独一无二的文化瑰宝。这张照片中,圣母殿附近矗立着一棵老古柏。据说这棵古柏树已有 3000 多年的历史,是中国最古老的树木之一。如今这两棵树都已然垂垂老矣需要一根金属杆来支撑。这种柏树也被视为长生的象征。它们经历了千年岁月的洗礼,依然幸存至今,体现了中华文明的坚韧不拔的精神。

Spring of the Immortals

This is the pavilion of the famous Spring of the Immortals. It is a natural spring that has been continuously flowing for over a thousand years. Its name suggests that drinking its water can bring longevity. The water is clear, cool, and pure, feeding the surrounding ponds and streams within the temple complex during thousands of years.

这是著名的难老泉亭。这里是一处天然泉眼,已流淌一千多年。它的名字象征着饮用其水可以长寿。难老泉水清澈凉爽、纯净无比,数千年来一直滋润着寺庙建筑群周围的池塘和溪流。

Flying Bridge Over the Fishpond

The stone bridge that spans the central fishpond in front of the Hall of the Holy Mother is called Yuzhao Feiliang in Chinese which means Flying Bridge Over the Fishpond. It is named “Flying Bridge” because of its innovative design: the bridge is supported by piers and extends out in a cross-shape, connecting the four cardinal directions. This gives the impression of the bridge “flying” over the water. It is an outstanding example of Song Dynasty engineering. The innovative cross-shaped layout is rare in traditional Chinese architecture.

圣母殿前这条横跨鱼塘的石桥,名为“鱼沼飞梁”,意为鱼塘上的飞桥。飞桥因设计新颖而得名:桥身由石墩支撑,呈十字形延伸,连接四方,给人以“飞”在水面上的感觉。这是宋代工程的杰出典范。这种创新的十字形建桥布局在中国传统建筑中并不常见。

Water Mirror Terrace

Apart from the three wonders, I visited other notable ancient architectures. The Water Mirror Terrace is an elevated stone platform for performing operas. It is now an important venue for activities during the Jinci Temple Fair. There is a plaque on the front and side with the four characters “Three Jin Famous Springs”. The west side (back) is a stage with a single-eaved curved roof. The east side is a double-eaved hip roof from the Ming Dynasty. There are eight water tanks under the stage. Every two of them are buckled together to form four groups of “large speakers”, which is a way for the ancients to increase the volume when performing.

除了晋祠三绝,我还参观了其他颇有意义的古建筑。这个水镜台是一座高架的石台,用于古人演戏剧,现在是晋祠庙会期间的重要活动场所。台的正面和侧面有一块匾额,上面写着“三晋名泉”四个大字。西侧(背面)是一座单檐曲顶戏台,东侧是明代重檐庑殿顶。戏台下有八个水缸,每两个水缸扣在一起,形成四组“大喇叭”,这是古人演出时用来增加音量的方法。

Golden Figures Terrace

In this picture the Golden Figures Terrace is a stone terrace and an intriguing and historically significant feature. Its name derives from the presence of metal statues on the terrace. These figures were cast in bronze or covered in gold leaf in the Song Dynasty. Some historical experts suggest that the statues may have commemorated notable military figures or ancestors of the Jin State, emphasizing the importance of loyalty and heritage in Chinese culture.

这幅图中的金人台是一座石台,是一处具有重要历史意义的景点。它的名字源于台上的金属雕像。这些雕像在宋代用青铜铸造用金箔包裹。一些历史专家认为,这些雕像可能是为了纪念晋国著名的军事人物或祖先,强调忠诚在传统中国文化中的重要性。

Duiyue Archway

This kind of archway is an important feature in Chinese architecture. The Duiyue Archway is constructed in the traditional Chinese memorial archway style with stone as its primary material. The archway is richly decorated with carved reliefs, including motifs of dragons, clouds, and lotus flowers. The calligraphy on the plague attributed to skilled artists of the Ming Dynasty. The archway is carefully positioned to align with the temple’s main axis. The term duiyue conveys a sense of offering deep respect, particularly to ancestral spirits. In Chinese, “Dui” means to repay; “Yue” means to promote. The two words combined together mean “repaying and promoting the merits of ancestors”

这种牌坊是中国建筑的一个重要特征。对越牌坊采用中国传统的牌坊风格建造,主要材料为石头。牌坊上雕刻着包括龙、云和莲花等丰富的浮雕。牌匾上的书法出自明代技艺精湛的艺术家之手。牌坊的位置也经过精心设计,与寺庙的中轴完全对齐。对越一词传达了一种深深的敬意,尤其是对先祖的敬意。在古汉文里,“对”的意思是报答;“越”的意思是弘扬。这两个词结合在一起的意思是“报答和弘扬祖先的功德”

Tang Shuyu Shrine

The main character of the temple Tang Shuyu was the younger son of King Wu of Zhou. According to historical accounts, he was granted the land of Tang (modern-day Shanxi) as a fiefdom for his loyalty and contributions to the Zhou court.
He was credited with establishing the State of Jin, which later became a powerful force in northern China. The shrine and even the whole Jingci temple was built to honor Tang Shuyu. It has been a site of ancestral worship and ritual offerings for centuries.

晋祠的主人公唐叔虞是周武王的小儿子。据史料记载,他因对周朝廷的忠诚和贡献而被封为唐地(位于现山西)。后来他建立了晋国,而晋国则成为中国北方的一支强大的军事力量。这座神社乃至整个晋祠最初都是为了纪念唐叔虞而建的。几个世纪以来,这里一直是祭祀祖先的场所。

I traveled in this place for a whole afternoon. The old temple and towers of Jinci were enveloped by profuse greenery of pine and cypress trees. The gentle rustle of leaves, the soft chirping of birds, and the sound of flowing water created a meditative atmosphere. The enchanting environment here was really attractive for me, reminiscent of Jiangnan’s poetic charm.

我在晋祠景区游玩了一下午,这里的古刹宝塔被郁郁葱葱的松柏环绕,树叶沙沙自语,鸟儿轻声鸣叫绕林不绝,流水潺潺,令人心旷神怡,迷人的环境犹如江南诗情画意的感觉让我陶醉其中。

Tai Yuan is modern city and there are not so many ancient architectures in the city center which appears a bit boring. This is the landscape of the Fen River, known as the “Mother River of Shanxi”. It is the second-largest tributary of the Yellow River and holds immense historical, cultural, and economic significance for the region. Flowing through Taiyuan, the river traverses the city from north to south, creating a scenic corridor. There are many high rising apartments along the riverbank, marking the quick progress of modernism of cities in China.

太原是一座现代化城市,市中心没有太多的古建筑,并显得有些乏味。这里是被称为“山西母亲河”的汾河风景。它是黄河的第二大支流,对该地区具有巨大的历史文化和经济意义。汾河流经太原,从北向南横穿城市,形成一条风景走廊。河岸边有许多平地而起的高层公寓,标志着中国城市日新月异的现代化进程。

In the evening, when the darkness has fallen, I visited the Bell tower pedestrian street. It was extremely crowded. It was designed to reflect Taiyuan’s historical charm, with buildings showcasing traditional Chinese architectural elements such as upturned eaves and red lanterns. Numerous restaurants and food stalls lined the street, serving a mix of traditional Shanxi dishes.

夜幕降临,我来到太原市中心的钟楼步行街。一条街上人头攒动。这条街的设计反映了太原的悠久历史,并展示了如飞檐和红灯笼中国传统的建筑元素。街道两旁林立着许多餐馆和小吃摊,兜售各种传统的山西菜肴。

Enjoying delicious local food is always important for travelers. Shanxi cuisine is famous for noodles. Kaolaolao is a signature dish of Shanxi Cuisine. It is a type of steamed noodle roll, made by rolling thin strips of dough of oat flour into spirals or small hollow cylinders. Once steamed, the Kaolaolao has a soft, chewy texture. It is served together with minced garlic, aged vinegar, and spicy oil.

Shanxi cuisine is also renowned for its rich flavors and unique use of aged vinegar. The combination of tender beef of original taste and aromatic aged vinegar creates a balance of savory and tangy flavors that exemplifies the culinary art of the region. Made from sorghum, barley, and peas, the vinegar undergoes a lengthy aging process, often for several years, which gives it its distinct flavor profile—rich, mellow, and slightly sweet with a tangy kick. Travelers must try it when traveling in Shanxi province.

品尝美味的当地美食对异乡旅行者来说尤为重要。山西菜以面食闻名。莜面栲栳栳是招牌山西菜。它其实是一种蒸面卷,由燕麦粉制成的薄条面团卷成螺旋状或小空心圆柱体制成。蒸熟后栲栳栳质地柔软,有嚼劲。它通常与蒜末、陈醋和辣油一起食用。

山西菜也因大量使用浓郁独特的陈醋而闻名。比如原味嫩牛肉和芳香的陈醋相结合,营造出酸咸味的平衡,体现了该地区的烹饪艺术。这种醋由高粱、大麦和豌豆制成,经过通常长达数年的陈化过程,这使其具有浓郁、醇厚、略带甜酸味的独特风味。游客在山西省旅行时一定要尝尝当地的陈醋。

This was the Bell Tower on this street which was initially constructed during the Ming Dynasty. It is a multi-tiered wooden structure built on a solid stone foundation. Its design follows the traditional Chinese architectural style. The roof is covered with green-glazed tiles, and the tower is adorned with red pillars and ornamental brackets, giving it an imposing appearance. It acts as a hub for community activities and many people assemble in this area at night.

这是这条街上始建于明代的钟楼,为多层木结构建筑,石质基座十分坚固。它的设计遵循中国传统建筑风格,屋顶上覆绿琉璃瓦,塔身饰以红色柱子和斗拱,气势磅礴。钟楼区域是当地人活动的中心,晚上许多人聚集在附近。

Tai Yuan was only a transit stop of my trip in Shanxi province, and I stayed for one day in this city. Before I left, I visited the Yongzuo Temple, which is one of Taiyuan’s most iconic historical sites. Located southeast of the city, this temple is famed for its two towering pagodas that stand as a testament to the architectural and cultural achievements of the Ming Dynasty.

太原只是我山西之行的一个中转站,我在这个城市仅仅停留了一天。离开之前,我参观了永祚寺,它是太原最具代表性的历史遗迹之一。这座寺庙位于城市的东南部,以两座高耸的宝塔而闻名,这些宝塔是明代建筑和文化成就的见证。

The temple was originally built during the reign of Emperor Wanli in the late Ming Dynasty. It was named Yongzuo Temple, symbolizing the emperor’s hope for eternal peace and prosperity. Over the centuries, the temple has served as a center for Buddhist worship and cultural activities.

祚寺寺始建于明末万历年间,名字象征着皇帝对永世承平的期盼。几个世纪以来,永祚寺一直是佛教崇拜和文化活动的中心。

The Twin Pagodas, built entirely of bricks and standing approximately 54 meters tall, are octagonal in shape and have 13 stories each. Both pagodas exhibit classic Chinese architecture, characterized by their elegant proportions, intricate brick carvings, and flying eaves. The pagodas were originally constructed to house Buddhist scriptures and as a way to bring blessings to the land. They symbolize the balance of duality in Buddhism and are seen as guardians of the temple.

双塔全部由砖砌成,高约 54 米,呈八角形,每座塔都是13 层。它们均采用中国古典塔楼的建筑风格,其特点是上下比例优雅、砖雕精美和飞檐装饰。双塔最初是为了存放佛经和为土地带来神灵庇佑而建造的。它们象征着佛教中二元性的平衡,也被视为寺庙的守卫者。

The towers narrow as they ascend, creating a visually pleasing silhouette on the lake of Twin Pagoda Temple Park. Although Taiyuan is an industrial city, there are many parks built in the city to create a serene environment for people to have a rest in the weekend. The park is filled with ancient cypress trees, pine groves, and flower gardens. Traditional Chinese Pavilions are scattered throughout the park. In the morning, many local people come here to have a physical exercise.

双塔寺公园的塔身随高度逐渐收窄,在湖面上形成美观的剪影。太原虽然是一座工业城市,如今城市中却建有众多绿化公园,为人们周末的休憩营造出宁静的环境。这些公园内古柏参天,松林密布,花团锦簇,传统中式亭台楼阁散布各处。清晨,许多当地人会来此晨练。

This ancient city of thousands years history is a treasure of history and culture. From the grandeur of Jinci Temple, with its serene gardens and legendary springs, to the towering elegance of the Twin Pagoda Temple, every corner of Taiyuan tells a story of legacy. Although it is not a city famous of tourism, I think it is worthy to visit this city considering its pivotal role of Northern Gate in China’s history.

In the 2000 years history, Tai Yuan has always become the important town to fiercely resist the invasion from enemies like the Huns, Khitan-led Liao Dynasty, the Jin Dynasty, the Mongols, the Manchus and the Japanese in the second world war. There were many bloody combats happening here. Now the epics and heroes can only be found in the history book. May the spirit of Taiyuan’s ancient charm and heroism stay with every Chinese eternally.

这座拥有千年历史的古城的确是历史文化的宝藏。从宏伟的晋祠、宁静的花园和传奇的泉水,到高耸的双塔,太原的每一个角落都讲述着一段传奇故事。虽然太原不是一座以旅游闻名的城市,但考虑到它在中国历史上作为北境大门的关键地位,我认为这座城市依然值得一游。

太原在两千多年的历史长河中,一直是抗击匈奴、辽金、蒙古、满清、二战中的日本等强敌入侵的重镇,无数先烈在此浴血奋战,这些可歌可泣的抗争史如今只能在青史上寻觅,愿太原的古韵与英雄精神永远留存在每一个中国人心中。

后记:

刘琨(271年-318年),字越石,是西晋末年的名将、文学家,以忠勇和才华著称。他一生致力于抵御五胡的入侵,守卫北方的汉族百姓。刘琨当时镇守孤城太原十年,黄河以北的土地已经全部沦陷。面对敌强我弱的形势,誓死抵抗。刘琨最终因势单力薄未能扭转大局,他的绝命诗 ‘何意百炼钢,化为绕指柔。’千古流传。这首诗展现了刘琨临死前的内心独白和人生感悟。他将自己比作百炼钢,虽历经磨难,却因时代与命运的无情,终化为柔弱。尽管如此,他对“柔弱胜刚强”的智慧有了领悟,这种对生命的洒脱和哲理思考,正是中国古代文人武将那种豪放与细腻兼具的心境写照。太原旅行的时刻自然就想到了这句千古名句。