Amsterdam, the city built on water

水上都市阿姆斯特丹

Amsterdam is the capital of Netherlands and it was my last stop in the trip of Netherlands in September 2020. The name of the city originates from The Dam on the River Amstel since the city developed from a small village on the river Amstel. The city owns numerous canals which form a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are so many water cities in the world that are compared with Venice but in my opinion, Amsterdam is the one which is most similar to Venice.

阿姆斯特丹是荷兰的首都,这是我 2020 年 9 月荷兰之行的最后一站。这座城市的名字来源于阿姆斯特尔河上的大坝,因为历史上这座城市就是是从阿姆斯特尔河上的一个小村庄发展而来的。 它拥有众多运河,这些运河也被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产。全球上有如此多的水城号称威尼斯,但在我看来阿姆斯特丹是与威尼斯最为相似的一个。

Amsterdam train station

Firstly, I took train from Rotterdam to Amsterdam central station. This stylish train station is surrounded by canals and behind the station there is a big lake. It is an historical building, and was designed by Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers and opened in 1889. It is a Gothic and Renaissance Revival station building with two turrets and many ornamental details like stone reliefs. When I stepped out of the gate of the train station, I was shocked as I felt that I was in a harbor.

伊始,我从鹿特丹坐火车直达阿姆斯特丹中央车站。这个风格迥异的火车站被运河环绕,车站后面是一个大湖。这是一座历史悠久的建筑,由荷兰建筑师皮埃尔·库珀斯设计,于 1889 年开启使用。它是一座哥特式和文艺复兴式结合的建筑,有两座尖塔和如石头浮雕等许多装饰细节。当我走出车站大门时,着实感到震惊,此刻仿佛自己置身在一个港口中。

The Basilica of Saint Nicholas

Opposite to the train station, there is a neo-Baroque and neo-Renaissance Roman Catholic church. This will be the first grand building to be noticed by the tourists when you just got off train. Above its rose window, there is sculpture of the patron saint of the city of Amsterdam placed in a niche. The church is located in the old city center of Amsterdam. Most of the old buildings and beautiful canals are distributed around this area.

火车站对面是一座新巴洛克和新文艺复兴风格的罗马天主教堂。这将是刚下火车时游客注意到的第一座高大建筑。在它的玫瑰窗上方,有一个放置在壁龛中的阿姆斯特丹市守护神的雕塑。这座教堂就位于阿姆斯特丹老城区。大多数古老的建筑和美丽的运河都分布于这个地区周围。

Oudezijds Voorburgwal

The top of church has a iconic central dome, glowing with reflected gold under the sunset. This is the view of the church from the Oudezijds Voorburgwal, which is a famous street and canal. The canal is also lined with monumental stepped gable houses from the Dutch Golden Age. Here assembles the most traditional street view of Amsterdam. The famous Red Light District is located in the area as well. Bicycle is one of the most important transportation tools in Netherlands. Here along the streets or on the bridges, I could always find so many bicycles. For tourists it’s easy to rent a bicycle and visit the whole city as you want.

教堂上方有一个标志性的中央圆顶,在夕阳下反射出金色的光辉。这是从著名的街区 Oudezijds Voorburgwal 看到的教堂景观。运河两旁矗立着荷兰黄金时代的阶梯式山墙房屋。这里汇集了阿姆斯特丹最传统的街景。闻名遐迩的红灯区也位于该地区。自行车是荷兰最重要的交通工具之一。 在街上或桥上,或多或少都能看到一些自行车。对游客来说,租一辆自行车随心所欲地游览整个城市确实易如反掌。

The urban plan of Amsterdam is different with other cities in the world. It consists of three main canals (Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht), which were digged in the 17th century. The interlocked canals form several concentric belts around the city intersected with small waterways and streets so travelers need to cross numerous bridges when they walked in the city center. These canals were listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010. It is recommended to take a boat tour to see the houses erected in the 17th and 18th centuries at the both sides of canal banks and observes the wild ducks’ frolic in water.

阿姆斯特丹的城市规划与世界其他城市截然不同。它由三条主要运河(Herengracht、Prinsengracht 和 Keizersgracht)组成,在 17 世纪挖掘而成。交错的运河在城市周围形成了几条辐射带,与一众小水道和街道相交,旅行者在阿姆斯特丹老城区行走时需要穿过许多桥梁。 这些运河在2010年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。特别建议游客乘船游览,参观运河两岸17和18世纪的房屋以及野鸭在水中嬉戏。

In Amsterdam, I have crossed so many bridges with different styles under my feet. Some bridges are even removable. The bridges and houses in this city are more modern than the ones in Venice. Additionally, I could still find many cars at the roadside of Amsterdam. In Venice, cars are totally not allowed to enter the city. When I immersed myself in the city, I can not stop to compare it with Venice. They have so many similarities.

在阿姆斯特丹,在我脚下穿过了那么多风格各异的桥梁。有些桥梁甚至是可移动的。这座城市的桥梁和房屋都要比威尼斯现代很多。此外我仍然可以在阿姆斯特丹的街边小巷发现很多汽车。然而在威尼斯机动车辆是完全不允许进城的。我沉浸在其中,不由自主地将它与威尼斯相提并论。 因为它们有太多相似之处。

It is a pleasurable experience to walk along the canals after dinner. At night, this area is quite crowded with tourists. There are a lot of night clubs, coffee shops, and restaurants for people to spend a meaningful night life. The night of September is a bit colder. When the streetlights are all lighted, it bring a sense of warmness to me. I took a note of the lamp posts of this city. Its appearance is simple not like the richly decorated baroque style in Paris.

晚餐后惬意沿着运河漫步。夜幕来临,这个地区充斥着熙熙攘攘的游客。并有很多夜总会、咖啡店和餐厅,方便人们度过别有意义的夜生活。九月的夜晚有一丝冷意。当街上华灯初照,给我带来一阵温暖。我特别留意了这座城市的灯柱。它的外观简单朴素,不像巴黎那种装饰华丽的巴洛克式风格。

Oude Kerk

Amsterdam is a city intertwined with modernity and history. Some historical buildings hide in the unimposing corners of the streets. The Oude Kerk in this picture which in English means Old Church is Amsterdam’s oldest building. The building was founded around 1213 and after the Reformation in 1578, it became a Calvinist church, which it remains today. The church is located in the Red Light district In the history it became home to the registry of marriages and stored the city archives and the most important documents.

阿姆斯特丹是一座现代与历史交织的城市。一些古老建筑隐藏在不起眼的街角中。 这张照片中的 Oude Kerk 在英文中的意思是老教堂,是阿姆斯特丹最古老的建筑。 该建筑始建于 1213 年左右,在 1578 年宗教改革之后到今日,它成为了一座加尔文主义教堂。该教堂位于红灯区,历史上曾是市政婚姻登记处,并存放着城市档案和最重要的文件。

The church has a high brick tower with a crown like tower top. It well preserved the history of the city. The church contains 2,500 graves under which are buried 10,000 Amsterdam citizens. When I walked around this area, there is one interesting thing. The prostitute windows displaying the coquet are directly opposite to the solemn and divine church and there is a Bronze statue in front of the Oude Kerk with inscription saying “Respect sex workers all over the world.” So in Amsterdam, ‘sex’ is a culture of the city as well and the travelers should try to get used to it. Amsterdam is called the capital of sex as well.

教堂有一座高高的砖塔,塔顶有一座皇冠。它很好地诠释了这座城市的历史。教堂内共有 2,500 座坟墓,埋葬着 10,000 名阿姆斯特丹市民。当我在这片地方走来走去时,发现了有一件有趣的事情。展现妓女风情的橱窗就在庄严神圣的教堂对面,老教堂前有一尊铜像,上面撰写着“尊重全世界的性工作者”。在阿姆斯特丹,“性”也是城市的一种文化,旅行者应该尝试习惯它。阿姆斯特丹也被称为性都。

The Munttoren

Another historical tower that left impression on me was the Munttoren tower. It stands on the busy Muntplein square, where the Amstel river and the Singel canal meet. Due to its perfect position, when I travelled in Amsterdam, I had passed by this tower and seen it for many times. Originally, It was part of Amsterdam’s medieval city wall built in 1480. Its name means Mint tower because the guard house on side of it was used to mint coins in the 17th Century. It has a symbolic clockwork with four clock faces and a carillon of bells made in 1668. The current carillon consists of 38 bells which chime every quarter of an hour. Every Saturdays, between 2 and 3 p.m., the Amsterdam city carillon player will give a live concert on the bells.

另一座给我留下深刻印象的历史塔楼就是图中这座蒙托伦塔。它位于繁忙的 Muntplein 广场上,Amstel 河和 Singel 运河在这里交汇。由于它的绝佳地理位置,当我在阿姆斯特丹旅行时,我多次经过这座塔并仔细观察过它。最初它是阿姆斯特丹建于 1480 年的中世纪城墙的一部分。因为它旁边的哨楼在 17 世纪曾用于铸币它的名字意为铸币塔。它有一个带有四个钟面的标志性钟表装置和一个 1668 年制造的钟乐器。目前使用的钟乐器由 38 个钟组成,每个钟每15分钟鸣响一次。 每周六下午 2 点到 3 点之间,阿姆斯特丹市钟琴演奏家将进行现场演奏。

In the evening, when darkness had fallen, the lights of every house were lightened up and silence enwrapped the streets. At this moment, the stillness of canals was temporarily interrupted by the shuttling boats. I even noticed that some tourists were still in sprits to visit the city by boats at night. I believe definitely this would be a romantic experience for them.

姗姗来迟的夜幕中点亮万家灯火,街道上此时一片寂静。运河上短暂的静谧被穿梭的小船突然打断。我无意中注意到一些游客在夜幕中依然兴致勃勃乘船游览这座城市。这样的秉烛夜游绝对是一次浪漫的经历。

Before the darkness reigned the city completely, I still had enough time to sit at the bench at the river bank and caught a glimpse of the landscape by riverside. I enjoyed the free time during the busy journey. Although I was extremely tired, I still preferred to stay longer in the pleasant environment and leave more imprints of this city in my memory. The beautiful scene along the canal really reminded me the night in the Saint Marc square in Venice. It was really superb!

在夜色完全笼罩城市之前,我还有充足的时间闲坐在河岸的长椅上,一瞥岸边的风景。我由衷享受繁忙旅途中的空闲时间。虽然疲惫不堪,但我还是更愿在这片宜人的景色中多呆一会儿,在大脑记忆中留下更多这座城市的印记。运河沿岸的美景让我想起在威尼斯圣马可广场的夜晚。这种感觉实在太棒了!

When night approached finally, I needed to look for something to fill in my stomach. Pancake is a good choice definitely. I would like to mention the Dutch pancake which is a bit different with the American pancake. Dutch pancake is larger and much thinner than the thick and fluffy American pancakes. The traditional pancake is too sweet with toppings like bacon and cheese. For me I think Dutch pancake is better, its taste is modified and added with salmon, chives, onion and even peppers. The taste is more acceptable for Chinese.

深夜彻底降临,我需要找点美食大快朵颐一番。煎饼绝对是个不错的选择。我特别提一下与美国煎饼有点不同的荷兰煎饼。荷兰煎饼比厚而蓬松的美国煎饼更大更薄。传统的美式煎饼配上培根和奶酪等配料实在有点甜了。 对我而言荷兰煎饼的口感更好,它的味道经过改良并添加了鲑鱼、细香葱、洋葱甚至辣椒等调料。华人更能接受这种味道。

Equestrian statue of Queen Wilhelmina

Amsterdam is the capital of Netherlands so at its street corners, tourists could easily find some symbols representing this country. This statue of Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands was sculpted in bronze by Theresia R. van der Pant. Wilhelmina, who is the member of the House of Orange-Nassau, was the Queen of the Netherlands from 1890 until her abdication in 1948. During the invasion of the Netherlands in the second world war, Wilhelmina fled to Britain and took charge of the Dutch government-in-exile. She frequently spoke to the nation over radio and was regarded as a symbol of the resistance. This statue and the national flag of Netherlands represent the tenacious spirit of the country.

阿姆斯特丹是荷兰的首都,所以在它的街角,游客可以很容易地找到一些代表这个国家的标志。这尊荷兰威廉明娜女王的雕像由特蕾西亚·R·范德潘特用青铜雕刻而成。威廉敏娜女王是奥兰治-拿骚家族的成员,从 1890 年开始就一直担任荷兰女王,直到 1948 年退位。在第二次世界大战德国入侵期间,威廉敏娜女王逃往英国并建立荷兰流亡政府。她经常通过无线电向全国发表讲话,同时也被视为抵抗运动的象征。这座雕像和荷兰国旗代表着这个国家顽强的精神。

Nationaal Monument op de Dam

This is another national monument which is located opposite to the famous Dam square. A national Remembrance of the Dead ceremony is held at the monument every year on 4th May to commemorate Dutch fallen soldiers in the second World War. The cenotaph made of white travertine stone consists of a main pillar with four chained male figures. Two male sculptures at the both sides represent members of the Dutch resistance and a depiction of a woman with a child and doves flying above represents victory, peace, and new life.

这是另一个国家纪念碑,它位于著名的水坝广场对面。 每年 5 月 4 日在纪念碑举行全国死难者纪念仪式,以纪念在第二次世界大战中阵亡的荷兰将士。由白色石灰华石制成的纪念碑由一根主柱和四个带铁链的男性人物组成。两侧的两尊男性雕塑代表荷兰的抵抗而上方一个带着孩子和飞翔的白鸽的女性雕塑则代表着胜利、和平和新生活。

Dam square

Dam square is the well-known and most important locations in Amsterdam. It derives its name from its original function which acts as a dam on the Amstel River built in 1270. This is the place where you could always find scores of pigeons, busy tourists, and freestyle street performers. The building at the background is the royal palace. The original structure was built as a town hall in the seventeenth century. In history the square is at the water side and thousands of ships stopped here every day. It was a market place as well at that period. In 1808, Louis Bonaparte, the Emperor Napoleon’s brother, also King of Holland took the city hall on Dam Square as his Royal Palace. The bronze statue on the façade of the building represents peace.

水坝广场是阿姆斯特丹最著名和最重要的地点。 它的名字来源于它最初是建于1270 年的阿姆斯特尔河上的水坝。在这里,总能看到无数鸽子、忙碌的游客和自由的街头表演者。这个照片的背景建筑是皇宫。 它最早是在十七世纪建造的市政厅。历史上的水坝广场就在水边,每天都有成千上万的船只停靠在这里。在那个时期,它也是一个交易市场。1808年,拿破仑皇帝的弟弟、荷兰国王路易·波拿巴将水坝广场上的市政厅作为他的皇宫使用。这座建筑正立面上的铜像代表着和平。

Citizen’s hall

After entering the entrance of the royal palace, visitors will see this grand Citizens’ Hall at first. The hall’s marbled floor is formed of world maps and star charts. The statues inspired by Romans and Greek mythology and the chandeliers in the hall are really magnificent. The plaster statue bearing a celestial globe on his shoulders is Atlas, the Titan in the revolt against the gods.

进入皇宫入口后,首先映入眼帘的是这座宏伟的市民大厅。大厅的大理石地板由世界地图和星图组成。 罗马和希腊神话诸神的雕像和大厅里的大吊灯尤为壮观。这座肩负天上星球的石膏雕像是神话中反抗众神的泰坦阿特拉斯。

The architect Jacob van Campen designed this building as a miniature universe. The marble reliefs with the four elements and garlands of flora and fauna together make up the terrestrial microcosm. The four elements are earth, water, fire and air. The figure enthroned at the center of this universe is the Maid of Amsterdam which represents the city. Around her are four child-like small statues depicting the four elements. The two sculptures at her flanks represent the symbol of Wisdom, Minerva, and the symbol of strength, Hercules.

建筑师 Jacob van Campen 将这座建筑设计为一个微型宇宙。四种元素的大理石浮雕和动植物花环共同构成了地表世界。 这四大元素分别是地、水、风和火。位于这个宇宙中心的人物雕像是代表这座城市的阿姆斯特丹女神。她的周围是四个孩子般的小雕像,代表了四大元素。她两侧的两尊雕塑分别是代表智慧的密涅瓦和象征力量的大力神。

This is the gallery connecting the citizen’s hall and other rooms. The palace is now used mainly for entertaining and official functions, such as state visits, New Year receptions and other official occasions. The royal family did not live or work here. The arched ceiling of the building is really amazing. I think it may symbolize sky and the numerous delicately decorated reliefs represents the gods. The blue globe above the chandelier looks like earth.

这是连接市民大厅和其他房间的走廊。这座宫殿目前主要用于娱乐和例如国事访问、新年招待会和其他官方场合等公务活动。王室并没有在这里生活或工作。这座建筑的拱形天花板真是美轮美奂。在我的想象中它可能象征着天空,许多装饰精美的浮雕代表着众神而吊灯上方的蓝色球体则看起来像地球。

The Burgomasters’ Cabinet

All of the rooms in the palace had a specific function. This is one of the most famous rooms in the palace. It is called the Burgomasters’ Cabinet or Former Councilors Chamber. In this room, Amsterdam’s four ruling mayors met with a group of previous mayors who acted as a sort of advisory board. Two enormous paintings above the two fireplaces constantly remind them that a good mayor must be honest, incorruptible and steadfast. The large painting called ‘An elephant behind the curtains’ hangs above.

This painting created by Ferdinand Bol depicts this story. The Consul Caius Fabritius Luscinus had to negotiate the release of prisoners-of-war with King Pyrrhus in Greece. When Pyrrhus who wears a turban and crown couldn’t buy Fabritius off with gold and silver, he set a dangerous elephant onto him. Everyone in the painting was afraid, except Fabritius. He wears the white plumed helmet and fearlessly holds his ground.

宫殿中的所有房间都有特定的功能。这是宫殿中最著名的房间之一。它被称为市长内阁或前议员会议厅。在这个房间里,阿姆斯特丹的四位执政市长与担任顾问委员会成员的前任市长进行会晤。壁炉上方的两幅巨幅画一直在不断提醒他们,作为一个好市长必须要秉承诚实、廉洁、坚定的信念。这幅油画名为“幕后的大象”。

费迪南德·波尔创作的这幅画描绘了这样一个故事。法布里蒂乌斯与希腊国王皮洛士就释放战俘进行谈判。当画中戴着头巾和王冠的皮洛士无法用金银收买法布里蒂乌斯时,他将一头危险的大象置于后者的身边。此刻每个人都显得惊惧。只有戴着白色羽毛头盔的法布里蒂乌斯无所畏惧地坚持自己的立场。

Insurance chamber

In 1806, Napoleon Bonaparte made his brother Louis the first King of Holland. This room belongs to King Louis’ bedroom. He ordered this four-poster mahogany bed decorated with gilded bronze from the Jacob-Desmalter firm in Paris. It is shaped like a boat and is therefore called ‘boat bed’. The interior decoration of this room is a bit similar to the style of Versailles Palace. The gorgeous damasks, gilded clocks, crystal chandeliers mark the luxury of royal house.

1806年,拿破仑·波拿巴将他的好兄弟路易推为荷兰的第一位国王。这个房间就属于路易国王的卧室。他从巴黎的 Jacob-Desmalter 公司订购了这张用镀金青铜装饰的四柱桃花心木床。它的形状像一艘船,故此被称为“船床”。 这个房间的内部装修有点像凡尔赛宫的风格。华丽的锦缎、镀金时钟、水晶吊灯标志着皇室的奢华。

The tribunal

On the ground floor of the Palace, it is the tribunal space which later served as the king’s chapel. When the building was still a town hall, this was where the death sentence was pronounced. The Tribunal was decorated elaborately with the marble works of sculptor elder Artus Quellinus who was the most important representative of the Baroque in sculpture in the Southern Netherlands. On the wall, there are four huge sculptures of offenders waiting to be hanged.

在宫殿的底层,是曾经的法庭,后来成为国王的礼拜堂。当这座建筑还是阿姆斯特丹市政厅时,这里是宣判死刑的地方。著名雕刻家阿尔图斯·奎里努斯(Artus Quellinus)用大理石雕刻精心装饰着这里,奎里努斯是南荷兰最重要的巴洛克代表雕塑家。墙壁上一共有四座巨型等待被绞死的罪犯雕塑。

Nieuwe Kerk

On Dam Square, there is a 15th-century church called New Church located next to the Royal Palace. There is a sun dial on the façade. Now, it is no longer used for church services but is used as an exhibition space. The church is also used for Dutch royal investiture ceremonies and royal weddings. As usual, I liked to sit at the benches in the square and look around the old buildings like the palace and the church. It is the heart of Amsterdam and represents the long history of this old city. Besides there were always so many doves flying over the square and left me deep impressions.

水坝广场上,皇宫旁边有一座 15 世纪的教堂。它的正面有一个日晷,被称为新教堂。现在,它已不再用于教堂礼拜,而是用作展览会场。这座教堂还用于荷兰皇室授职仪式和皇室婚礼。像以往一样,我喜欢坐在广场的长椅上,环顾四周的宫殿和教堂等古老建筑。这里是阿姆斯特丹的中心,也代表着这座老城的厚重历史。另外广场上总是那么多的鸽子盘旋翱翔,也给我留下了深刻的印象。

Magna Plaza

In the city center of Amsterdam, you can easily find such a big shopping mall as well to satisfy your desire of shopping. The Magna Plaza is a modern shopping mall but with a historical appearance. It was built in 1895–1899 in Neo-Gothic and Neo-Renaissance style. The stylish two towers reminded me of a castle or a cathedral however this building was the Amsterdam Post Office in the history. Due to the iconic pear shaped crowns on top of the towers the building is named as ‘pear burg’. Its façade is decorated with polychromatic brick and dimension stone.

在阿姆斯特丹市中心,你也可以轻松找到这样的大型购物中心满足你的消费欲。麦格纳广场是一个非常现代化的购物中心,不过却具有一幅历史悠久的外观。它建于 1895-1899 年,采用的是新哥特式和新文艺复兴风格。风格独特的两座塔楼则让我不禁想起了某座城堡或大教堂,但这座建筑却是历史上的阿姆斯特丹邮局。由于塔顶标志性的梨形冠冕,这座建筑也被命名为“梨堡”。它的外立面用彩砖和规格石料装饰而成。

Rijksmuseum

Amsterdam is a great place to explore the Dutch art and culture of the Golden Age. You can find many museums in this city. Among them the most representative is the Rijksmuseum which is the national museum of the Netherlands. The museum was founded in The Hague in 1798 and moved to the current building which was first opened in 1885. When I visited Amsterdam, there was a temporary exhibition of the work of Caravaggio. This museum collects many masterpieces created by the greatest Dutch painters like Rembrandt and Vermeer.

阿姆斯特丹也是探索黄金时代荷兰艺术和文化的最好地方。游客可以在这个城市游览许多博物馆。其中最具代表性的当属荷兰国立博物馆Rijksmuseum。该博物馆于 1798 年在海牙成立,后来搬迁到现在的建筑,并于 1885 年首次开放。当我游览阿姆斯特丹时,这里有一个卡拉瓦乔作品的临时展览。这个博物馆收藏了伦勃朗和维米尔等荷兰最伟大的画家创作的诸多杰作。

This museum has a beautiful garden with blooming flowers and small fountains. Even you don’t want to visit the museum, you could still take a short break here. The Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers who also designed Amsterdam’s Central Station designed this garden. The garden consists of four parts. Each part has different style. This garden in this photo is in French-Classicist style.

这个博物馆还包括了一个美丽的花园,里面有盛开的鲜花和小喷泉。即使没有参观博物馆的兴趣,不妨在这里稍作休息。同时设计了阿姆斯特丹中央车站的荷兰建筑师 Pierre Cuypers 设计了这个花园。它由四个部分组成,每个部分都有不同的风格。这张照片中的这个花园是法国古典主义风格的。

The Gallery of Honor

The Gallery of Honor is an extended corridor displaying the masterpieces by the great artists of the seventeenth century. The cast iron beams are inscribed with the names of the famous painters of the age. Semi-circular arched wall sections display the coats of arms of the eleven provinces of the Netherlands and their respective capital cities. The section of the gallery displayed the most famous painting created by Rembrandt – The night watch. This painting is extremely large, up to 363 by 437 centimeters. It is famous for its colossal size, the dramatic use of light and shadow and the perception of motion in what would have traditionally been a static military group portrait.

著名的荣誉画廊是一条延伸的长走廊,它展示了十七世纪伟大艺术家的杰作。铸铁横梁上刻有当时著名画家的名字。半圆形拱形墙部分展示了荷兰十一个省及其各自首府的徽章。这部分的画廊展示了伦勃朗创作的最著名的画作—夜巡。这幅画非常大,足足有 363 厘米 x 437 厘米。它以其巨大的尺寸、对光影的巧妙使用以及对本是静态团体人物的动态描绘而闻名。

De Melkmeid 

Another master piece in this museum is this oil-on-canvas painting called ‘The milk maid’ which was created by the famous Dutch artist Johannes Vermeer. It is regarded as “one of the museum’s finest attractions”. The painting shows a milk maid pouring milk into a earthenware container on a table. Vermeer employs light well to depict this woman with downcast eyes and pursed lips. Its artistic effect is similar to the ‘Mona Lisa’. People can not help to think what this woman is thinking when she prepares the food.

这个博物馆的另一件杰作是这幅名为“牛奶女工”的油画,它由著名的荷兰艺术家约翰内斯·维米尔创作。它被认为是“博物馆最好的作品之一”。这幅画描绘了一位牛奶女工将牛奶倒入桌子上的陶制容器中。维米尔(Vermeer)很好地运用了光线来描绘这位眼睛低垂、嘴唇撅起的女人。它的艺术效果类似于“蒙娜丽莎”。让人们不禁联想这个女人在准备食物时内心在思考什么。

The Museumplein

Behind the Rijksmuseum, there is a large piece of meadow. The museum square is used for mass events such as festivals, celebrations, and demonstrations. Three major museums including the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, and Stedelijk Museum are located near this square. It is recommended to come here and visit the two most influential museums together.

在国立博物馆后面,有一大片草地。这个博物馆广场用于举办节日、庆典、游行等群众性活动。国家博物馆、梵高博物馆和市立博物馆等三大博物馆都位于这个广场附近。建议游客来这里,一起参观阿姆斯特丹最有影响力的几个博物馆。

Van Gogh Museum

For me Van Gogh is one of my favorite artist and the best artist and Van Gogh museum is a must-see during my trip in Amsterdam. I have visited Arles before where Van Gogh created most of his work in his life. These works will only be seen in this museum. The building of the museum was a very modern one designed by Gerrit Rietveld and Kisho Kurokawa.

在我心目中梵高是我最喜欢的艺术家也是最好的艺术家,梵高博物馆也是我在阿姆斯特丹旅行期间必去的地方。之前我曾游览过阿尔勒,梵高一生中大部分作品都是在这里创作的,然而这些作品只能在这个博物馆亲眼目睹。整个博物馆是由 Gerrit Rietveld 和 Kisho Kurokawa 设计的非常现代的建筑。

The museum was opened in 1973 and has the largest collection of Van Gogh’s paintings and drawings in the world. At the first floor the sculpture of Van Gogh could be seen. Most of his self portrait was collected here. I remembered in one British science-fiction television program ‘Doctor Who’, Van Goh was invited to visit his art gallery in Museum Orsay. When he saw his paintings and heard the comments of himself from one art master :’ Van Gogh is the finest painter of all time. His command of color is the most magnificent. He transformed his pain of his tormented life into ecstatic beauty.’, he was so excited that he could not control his tears.

该博物馆于 1973 年开放,收藏了世界上最多的梵高绘画和素描收藏。在一楼可以看到梵高的雕塑。他的大部分自画像都是在一楼收集的。我依然记得在一档英国科幻电视节目《神秘博士》中,梵高受邀参观他在奥赛博物馆的艺术画廊。当他看到他的画作并听到现代大师对自己的评论 “梵高是有史以来最优秀的画家,他对色彩的驾驭是最为出色的,他把自己曾受的折磨和痛苦转变成美好的艺术”,他激动地潸然泪下。

The Langlois Bridge

The whole life of Van Gogh was a tragedy. Although he created so many great works, no one recognized his talent during his lifetime. I believe if Van Gogh could revive and visit his museum in Amsterdam, he would be extremely excited and be proud of himself. The museum of Van Gogh indeed proved his value. This painting is called ‘The Langlois bridge’ created in Arles. The sky was grey when Van Gogh painted this bridge in Provence. This painting had left me deep impression because when I visited Arles, I passed by it as well. The bridge is famous for his painting and is well conserved until today.

梵高的一生是一场悲剧。尽管他创作了这么多伟大的作品,但在他的一生中并没有人认可他的才华。我相信,如果梵高能够复活并参观阿姆斯特丹的属于他自己的博物馆,他一定会无比兴奋并为自己感到自豪。这个梵高博物馆确实证明了他的价值。这幅画名为“朗格卢瓦桥”,创作于阿尔勒。当时梵高在普罗旺斯灰暗的天空下创作了这幅画。这幅画给我留下了深刻的印象,当我游历阿尔勒时,我也曾经过了它。这座桥以他的绘画而闻名,至今保存完好。

Sunflowers

One of his most famous paintings must be the ‘Sunflowers’. He created this series of paintings in Arles as well. There ware several versions of ‘Sunflowers’ conserved in the different museums in the world. Van Gogh has used a lot of yellow pigments in this painting. I believe he must be influenced by the golden sunflower fields in Arles.

梵高最著名的画作一定是《向日葵》。他也在阿尔勒创作了这一系列画作。世界上不同的博物馆中保存着多个版本的“向日葵”。梵高在这幅画中使用了大量的黄色颜料。我猜想他一定是受到了阿尔勒金色葵花田的影响。

The ‘Sunflowers’ is so famous that this museum has set a wall with background of sunflowers for visitors to take a picture and share it on Instagram. I think it is a good method to let more people know Van Gogh and his art works. The duplicate of this painting could be purchased in the museum as well which costs 200 euros.

“向日葵”是如此远负盛名,梵高博物馆特意设置了背景就是向日葵的一面墙,供游客拍照并在 Instagram 上分享。我认为这是让更多人了解梵高和他的艺术作品的好方法。这幅画的复制品也可以在博物馆购买,价格为 200 欧元。

When I left the Van Gogh museum and stepped on the meadow, there was a beam of sunlight shining the building in the opposite. The weather is always gloomy in Netherlands so I would feel happy when it’s a sunny day. Sun light will give hope to people who always live in darkness. I like such a large piece of greenery amid the crowded city. It makes the traditional city landscape not so monotonous and more beautiful.

当我离开梵高博物馆,踏上广场上的草地时,一束阳光洒在对面的建筑上。荷兰的天气总是阴沉沉的,所以在阳光明媚的日子里我会感到格外高兴。阳光会给那些生活在黑暗中的人带来希望。我也很欣赏在拥挤的城市中能够看到这么大的一片绿地。它使传统的城市景观看起来不再那么单调并更加美丽动人。

I have spent totally three days in Amsterdam. This is really a memorable experience. I always like cultural and historical cities at water sides. Confucius had said that the clever person prefers water and the kind person prefers mountain. Before I left at last, I took this picture on one bridge. It could best represent this charming city, the peaceful canal, the arched bridge, the clean streets, and the colorful flowers, they looked so amazing under the pleasant morning sun light. I wish I could come here again in the future.

我在阿姆斯特丹共计度过了难忘的三天。 我一直钟情于依水而畔的文化和历史名城,子曰:知者乐水,仁者乐山。在我最后告别之前,我在一座小桥上驻足拍下了这张照片。它最能代表这座魅力城市,宁静的运河,小桥流水,干净的街道,五颜六色的鲜花,它们在宜人的初日下显得如此迷人。我也衷心希望我以后能故地重游。

Giethorn in drizzle and breeze

斜风细雨中的羊角村

Tassel

Giethoorn is a small village in the east of Netherlands near the city Steenwijk. It is the most popular tourist site in Netherlands especially for Chinese tourists due to its fairytale and idyllic landscape with numerous bridges and canals. Giethoorn has a reputation of “Dutch Venice” as well. The village has only two thousands habitants but it receive over 1 million tourists each year. It’s really a great achievement for such a small place.

羊角村是荷兰东部的一个小村落,靠近 Steenwijk 市。它是荷兰对中国游客而言最受欢迎的旅游景点,它有着童话般的田园风光,拥有众多的桥梁和交错的运河。羊角村也享有“荷兰威尼斯”的美誉。虽然村中只有两千居民,但它每年接待超过 100 万游客。对于这样的弹丸之地来说,这着实是一项了不起的成就。

Giethoorn is located inside the National Park De Weerribben-Wieden. For tourists the easiest way to get there is to take bus No.70 or walk from the train station of Steenwijk. When I arrived, it was a rainy day in September 2020 and it was a bit cold outdoor. Although Steenwijk is just a stopover, I still had half-forgotten memory of its street view, especially its high cathedral tower and the neat brick-paved roads. It was a cloudy morning with patchy drizzle. I dragged my feet along the wet sidewalks. Only very few cyclists passed by and the whole town was so quiet that I could hear my foot steps clear.

羊角村位于德维尔本-威登国家公园内。 对游客而言,到达那里最简单的方法便是是乘坐 70 路巴士或从 Steenwijk 火车站步行。当我抵达Steenwijk的时候是2020年9月的一个阴雨天,室外有一丝寒意。虽然这里只是一个中转站,但我仍然对它的街景记忆犹新,尤其是它那高耸的大教堂塔楼和整洁的砖砌道路。这是一个阴沉的早晨,下着绵绵细雨。我在湿漉漉的便道上徐徐前行。那时只有极少数骑自行车的人经过,整个小镇是如此的静谧甚至连我的脚步声都听得一清二楚。

Villa Rams Woerthe

On my way to Giethoorn, I accidently passed by one delicately decorated villa. It has flamboyant features of Art Nouveau like the colorful stained glass windows, curve formed doorway and its unsymmetrical design. This building was built in 1899 as a residence house of wealthy Tromp Meester family and now it becomes a museum for visiting. There is a beautiful English style garden in front of the villa and behind the villa it is a 10-hectare park. This area is spacious, really a suitable place for relaxing and breathing fresh air.

在去羊角村的路上,偶遇一栋装饰精美的别墅。 它具有如彩色玻璃窗、曲线门廊和不对称设计等典型的新艺术运动的风格。这座建筑始建于 1899 年,是富有的 Tromp Meester 家族的私人住宅,如今成为供参观的博物馆。别墅前面有一个美丽的英式花园,别墅后面是一个10公顷的公园。 这片区域很宽敞,非常适合放松和呼吸新鲜空气。

Nationaal Park Weerribben Wieden

In the south of Steenwijk, there is a large piece of wetland full of vegetation like reeds, and quaking bogs. This land is the national park of Weerribben Wieden and its area is 100 square kilometers. It is a perfect place of feeling the breathtaking nature of Netherlands. It owns a typical Dutch landscape like wide lakes, stretching waterways, and sheep browsing on grass.

在 Steenwijk 的南部,有一大片湿地,上面长满了芦苇等植被以及遍布泥泞的沼泽。这片土地就是威登国家公园,面积为100平方公里。这是感受荷兰令人叹为观止的自然风光的绝佳场所。它拥有例如宽广湖泊、连绵水道和草上觅食的羊群等典型的荷兰景观。

When I stepped on the National park, I was on this way in the photo straight towards Giethoorn. This famous village was just 3km ahead of me. The weather today was not very good but it did not affect my mood too much. Most people don’t like walk in their trips because they could not tolerate the unexpected bad weather or the exhaustion because of strenuous marches. However for me I think travel on foot is the only way to be close to your destination with zero distance and it’s the easiest and most direct way to discover the unknown beautiful world that only existed in other’s photo albums before.

踏上国家公园,我沿着照片中的小路直插羊角村。这个著名的景点就在我正前方3公里处。今天的天气较差,但并未影响我的心情。绝大多数社畜因为无法忍受意外的恶劣天气或苦于疲惫不堪的强行而厌恶徒步旅行。但对在下而言徒步旅行绝对是零距离接近目的地的唯一方式,也是发现以前只存在于他人相册中的美丽世界的最简单、最直接的方式。

Along the way towards Giethoorn, I found many private houses. The local people in this area all lived in this kind of triangle roof house. There is no fences or wall protecting the houses so I guess that social security in Netherlands should be very good. This kind of rural life is really admirable. The house is surrounded by trees and meadows. Everyday the people living here could see greenery and colorful flourishing flowers just outside the windows.

羊角村的路上,我目睹了很多私人住宅。这片地区的当地人都住在这种三角屋顶的房子里。周围并没有栅栏或围墙保护房屋,我猜想荷兰的社会安全应该是一流的。不过这样的田园生活真是令人羡慕。房子周围环绕着树木和草地。这里的居民每天都能看到窗外的成荫绿树以及五颜六色盛开的鲜花。

This is another private house hiding amid the forest. This area belongs to the village of Giethoorn but it is not at the crowded tourist site. Only when you walk to the village, you could find it on the way surprisingly. It is an ideal residential place with wonderful nature environment. The house perches exactly at one cape surrounded by waterways with reeds. At the beginning of autumn, the silent surface of water is padded with freely dispersed small lily pads. A slow breeze causes gentle ripples across the still surface. It forms a perfect rural landscape of Netherlands in my heart.

这是另一个藏匿于森林中的私人住宅。这片地区虽然属于羊角村,但它不是众人蜂拥的旅游景点。只有恰好徒步,才能在路上惊喜地发现它。这里绝对是个人理想的居住地,自然环境优美。 房子正好坐落在一个被芦苇遍布的水道包围的岬角上。秋日寂静的水面上散落着伶仃的小睡莲。一阵细小的微风在静止的水面上掀起柔和的涟漪。它就是我心目中完美的荷兰乡村景观。

I walked around 1 hour in the light rain until I arrived at the entrance of the village. All the bus or cars can only stop here because the village is only accessible by foot or boat. The canal connect the small waterways in the village. There is one lift bridge over the canal. When boat passes by, the bridge will lift up automatically. This is the first time to see traffic light in the canal. It’s quite interesting!

在羊角村的大路上栉风沐雨疾走1小时后终于抵达村口。所有的公共汽车或私人汽车都只能在这里停下来,羊角村只可以乘船或者步行进入。这条主运河连接村里的小水道。运河上有一座升降桥。当船经过时,桥会自动升起。我平生第一次在运河里看到交通灯,真是大开眼界!

The village consists of canals and small islands which are inter-connected by 176 bridges to the mainland. This is the service area of the village with more modern houses. Tourists could rent a boat to travel the village. There are some tourist shops and restaurants here. Because there are so many Chinese tourists every year, I can even find a Chinese beef noodle restaurant here. All the way towards the end, there is a small bridge which will lead the tourists towards east or west of the village.

该村由众多运河和小岛组成,通过 176 座桥梁与外部相连。这片区域是村里的服务区,房子相对比较现代。游客可以租船游览村庄。这里有一些旅游商店和餐馆。每年大量中国游客蜂拥而至,我居然可以在这里找到一家中国牛肉面馆。沿着图中的路一路走到尽头,有一座小桥将游客引向村子的东边或西边。

I was standing on this old bridge which could be regarded as the entrance of the village center. From here the tourists could view the best picturesque landscape of Giethoorn. Behind me it was the most representative house here that appear on travel magazines for many times.

我站在这座可谓是村中心入口的古桥上。从这里游客可以欣赏到羊角村最美的风景。在我身后的是这里最具代表性的房子,这幅美景曾多次出现在旅游杂志上。

The center of the village is just a small area where the local residents live now. The tourists assemble in this area usually and take around 2 to 4 hours to visit every part of it. Its iconic landscape is the thatched roof farmhouses which are built in the 18th and 19th centuries. The houses are used as barn historically and surrounded by green well-kept lawns with beautiful flowering hydrangeas.

羊角村的中心只是当地居民现在居住的一个小区域。游客通常聚集在这个区域,大约需要 2 到 4 个小时才能参观完它的每个部分。这里标志性景观当属建于 18 世纪和 19 世纪的茅草屋顶农舍。这些房屋在历史上被用作谷仓,周围环绕着修剪完好的绿色草坪和美丽的绣球花从。

Although Giethoorn is called the Venice of Netherlands, it is obviously different with Venice. The waterway and canal here is not large as the Grand canal of Venice. Small boats cruising through the canal could only occupy two or four people. The verdant rural landscape with traditional thatched huts is different with the cultural renaissance palace in Venice as well. Giethoorn is a water village where people could embrace the nature fully. It is in fact more like a small piece of exquisite emerald which is not fully carved and polished.

尽管羊角村被称为荷兰的威尼斯,但与威尼斯有着明显的不同。这里的水路和运河没有威尼斯的大运河那么宽广。此处小船在运河中游弋,只能容纳两到四个人。青翠的乡村风景以及传统的茅草屋交织相应,自然与威尼斯的文艺复兴宫殿大相径庭。羊角村是一个人们可以充分拥抱大自然的水乡。它其实更像是一块未经雕琢和打磨的精美翡翠。

Tourists could also visit Giethoorn on foot along the canal. On one side of the canal, it’s the path for bicycle and pedestrian. The footpath is very narrow and only allows one person to pass by. On the other side of the canal, they are the private houses of local people. Each house has one small bridge connecting to other side. Tourists could take a beautiful picture on the bridge but not disturb the life of the residents. In this village it’s easy to find some mini docks near the resident houses. Small private boats are just left there unattended under the autumn rain. What a leisurely and pleasant life!

众多游客也会选择沿着运河步行游览羊角村。在运河的一侧,是自行车和行人的通道。这种人行道十分狭窄,只允许一个人通过。运河的另一边,是当地人的私人住宅。每间房子对应着一座小桥连接到另一边。游客可以在桥上拍到美丽的照片,但尽量不要打扰居民的生活。在这个村落里,一些迷你码头在居民住宅附近举目皆是。秋潮带雨晚来急,野渡无人舟自横。真是宜人的生活啊!

On the small bridges it was easy to observe the panoramic view of the village. Historically, this village could only be accessed by water. The canal was the main gateway to connect it with the world outside. Obviously it was quite narrow as it’s the main transportation route. If there are many tourists, it will be too crowded on the water. I was fortunate enough to visit it at a suitable time. At this moment, only a few boats traversed to and fro under the bridges.

在小桥上观察村庄的全景。 历史上看这个村庄只能通过水路进入。运河是连接外界的主要通道。 显然作为主要交通线路它实在太狭窄。 如果有很多游客水面会拥挤不堪。我有幸在这个适宜的时机参观了它。此时只有寥寥几艘船在桥下来回穿梭。

Most of the time I was travelling along the axis of the village which name is called Binnepad. The village has a long and narrow shape and is separated by three tiny settlements: Noordeinde, Middenbuurt and Zuideinde. The Dorpsgracht is the central canal that connects these separate settlements. Punter is a kind of traditional flat bottom boat similar to Gondola that is used for transportation over the canals. Some visitors prefer to rent such a boat to drift around the village under the wooden bridge one by one. And some visitors troll around on foot like me.

大部分时间我都沿着村庄的中轴线旅行,这条轴线道路叫做 Binnepad。整个村庄呈狭长形,由三个小定居点分割:Noordeinde、Middenbuurt 和 Zuideinde。Dorpsgracht 是连接这些独立定居点的中央运河。名为punter的平底船是一种传统的类似威尼斯刚朵拉的平底船,用于在运河上进行运输。有的游客喜欢租这样的船在木桥轻舟荡漾。其他游客则像我一样徒步穿行。

Although the village is very small, it still has one museum to record the local history. There are some renovated farmhouses which are the Giethoorn ‘t Olde Maat Uus museum. inside the museum, Visitor can discover how the local people lived more than 100 years ago and how they cut peat and built small boats at that time. There is also a fishing house and a boat house in the yard. It allows you to know how they live difficultly in the history and how they strived for the admirable life nowadays.

村子虽小仍有一座博物馆记录着当地的历史。一些经过翻新的农舍是 Giethoorn ‘t Olde Maat Uus 博物馆。在博物馆内,游客可以了解100多年前当地人的奋斗历程,以及当时他们是如何开采泥炭和建造小船的。院子里还有渔屋和船屋让游客了解历史上的艰难困苦以及如何争取出如今令人羡慕的生活。

The village was built on peatland historically. It was cut into many pieces by the workers and the small islands are formed in this way. The bultrugboerderij is a common type of old farm houses with chimney in Giethoorn. The canals are built to transport peat and the farmers lived in these neatly arranged houses since 16th century. It was really a serene place and what you could hear was only the quacking of a ducks and whispers of wind.

该村历史上建在泥炭地上。它被工人切成了许多块,诸多小岛就是如此形成。图中名为bultrugboerderij 是羊角村常见的带有烟囱的旧农舍。运河也是为了运输泥炭而建造的,自 16 世纪以来,农民就住在这些坐落有秩房子里。这里真是一个宁静的地方,耳畔中唯有阵阵鸭鸣和风之细语。

Giethoorn is not large but it’s recommended to visit it in a slow pace so that you can observe every its detail with your eyes. At noon, I enjoyed to take some time sitting at waterside under willows. Slight raindrops soaked my sleeves and a gust of not-so-cold wind stirred the willow twigs and blew my face at the same time. I kept my eyes on the every plants and animal. Lovely wild ducks filed in a row at the river bank and looked for food. It was really a natural environment to combine human beings and nature perfectly. You will easily be assimilated into it.

羊角村规模不大值得游客慢慢游览,细细品味,用自己的眼睛洞察它的每一个细节。晌午时分,我悠然在柳树下的水边闲坐。岸边柳林处,沾衣欲湿杏花雨,吹面不寒杨柳风。我注视着周围的一草一木。可爱的野鸭在河岸边排成一排觅食。这真是一个人与自然完美结合浑然天成的环境。你会不由自主地融入其中。

The major color style of this fairytale village must be green as there are so many luxuriantly green vegetation all around the village. However it’s not so monotonous since the greenery is always interspersed with some colorful flowers. Giethoorn is famous for hydrangeas or Hortensia. This kind of gorgeous purple and pink flowers bloom in the summer until the end of September. The life here is as beautiful like summer flowers.

这个童话般的村庄的主色调一定是绿色。村子上下遍布茂盛的绿色植被然而它并不显得单调突兀。这些绿色植物从中总是点缀着一些五颜六色的花朵。羊角村以这种彩色绣球花而闻名。这种艳丽的紫色和粉红色的花朵在夏天烂漫盛开直到到九月底,这里的生活就如同夏花般灿烂。

Occasionally I found this is the flag of the village. As the its name Giethoorn states, it has a goat horn on the flag. Giethoorn’s name originates from the first inhabitants’ discovery of hundreds of goat horns (gietehorens) in the marshland in the 10th century.

我无意间窥见羊角村的旗帜。正如它的名字所言,它的旗帜上有一个山羊角。羊角村的名字源于10世纪,第一批居民在沼泽地发现了数百个山羊角(gietehorens)。

I continued to walk forward until I arrived at this area, it was the end of the village. Of course, you could continue to move but the landscape is not as beautiful as the center area of the village. Here is a campsite where visitors could rent camping pods for two people or a wooden log cabin for family. Although the village is extremely small, it still provides enough facilities to spend a nice holiday.

当我继续乘兴前行,直到到这片区域,便要路尽河回人转舵。当然游客还可继续向前探索,但彼岸的风景却远不如羊角村宛然动人。这是一个露营地,游客可以租用两个人的露营舱或家庭用的木制小木屋。村子虽小,但仍能向游客提供足够的设施度过一个愉快的假期。

I took around 3 hours to finish the visit of the whole village of flowers and trees. Every corner of this village was worth of taking photo. In the early autumn, the flourishing flowers brought special charm to the village. A blow of cool wind flew through flowers with dewdrops and several petals dropped down and floated on the flat surface of flowing water. It was undoubtfully a romantic place but it was only pity that the weather is not so good. All the photos taken appear to be too somber. So before you come it is necessary to check the weather forecast. I believe that rowing in Giethoorn on a sunny day will provide an unforgettable experience to travelers definitely.

我总计用时大约 3 个小时倘徉在这个鲜花与绿树的世界里而不能自拔。这里的每个角落都值得拍照留念。 初秋时节,繁花似锦,给羊角村带来了别样的韵味。微风拂过,花自飘零水自流。这无疑是一个无比浪漫的地方,但可惜天公不作美,所有拍摄的照片都显得过于阴沉。因此在游览此处之前,有必要查看当地的天气预报。我相信阳光明媚的日子里在羊角村荡舟一定会给旅行者带来一生难忘的体验。

Trip in Den Haag, the royal capital of the Netherlands

荷兰帝都海牙之旅

Den Haag is a city on the west coast of Netherlands bordering the North Sea. It’s well known for the International Court of Justice of the United Nations. The city’s name originates from the name ‘des Graven hage’ in the 15th century which means “The Count’s Wood”. When you travel in Netherlands, you could take one day to look at it. The city is not large and its public transportation is very convenient. Most people know that Amsterdam is the capital of Netherlands but they may not know that Den Haag is the royal capital and the seat of government.

海牙是荷兰西海岸与北海接壤的一座城市。 它以联合国的海牙国际法庭而闻名。 这座城市的名字来源于 15 世纪的名字“des Graven hage”,意思是“伯爵的森林”。 当你在荷兰旅行时可以花一天时间了解一下它的历史。这座城市不大,公共交通十分便利。相信大多数人都知道阿姆斯特丹是荷兰的首都,但可能不知道海牙却是皇家的首都和政府所在地。

I took the RandstadRail tram from Rotterdam to Den Haag central station in the sunny morning of September 7th 2020. It’s an historical city perfectly combined with modernity and history. The train station is in the city center, just a stone’s throw away from the area of government office. This area has an old history. Faraway at this side of road I could see some pedestrians walking slowly across the ancient arches. Occasionally, at the street corner, some trolley cars passed by me with a soft silvery tinkling. Here I could really feel a tinge of the old past.

2020 年 9 月 7 日阳光明媚的清晨,我从鹿特丹乘坐 RandstadRail 地铁前往海牙中央车站。这是一座完美结合现代与历史的古老名城。火车站就位于市中心,距政府办公区仅一步之遥。 这个地区有着悠久的历史。 路这边远远地遥望行人缓步穿过古老的拱门。 不经意间的转角,有轨电车与我擦身而过,发出柔和清脆的叮当声。 此刻一种莫名的历史沧桑感油然而生。

Statue King Willem II

When I travelled in European city, I always paid attention to every statue erected in public square. The figures that could not speak represented the history of the city or the country perfectly. The bronze equestrian statue of King William II at the square Buitenhof is a replica of the equestrian statue of King William II by the French sculptors Antonin Mercié and Victor Peter, which was erected in Place Guillaume II in Luxembourg in 1884. During the reign of King William II, the Netherlands became a parliamentary democracy with the new constitution of 1848. Behind the statue, it is the lake called Hofvijver. The houses around the square were the lovely traditional Belgium triangle houses.

行在欧洲之时,我总是着眼于广场上竖立的每一尊雕像。这些不会说话的塑像完美诠释了每一个城市或国家的历史。 Buitenhof广场上的这座威廉二世国王的骑马铜像是1884年在卢森堡纪尧姆二世广场上竖立的雕像复制品。法国雕塑家安东宁默西和维克多彼得设计的该雕塑。在威廉二世的统治期间荷兰在1848 年的新宪法下成为议会民主制国家。雕像后面是名为霍夫维耶弗的湖。广场周围环绕的民居是传统的比利时三角房子。

Hofvijver 

The most representative and inviting view of this city is the lake Hofvijver. In the middle of the lake, there is a small island with plants and trees. These ancient buildings with numerous small chimneys at the waterside are the government complex of Dutch republic since 1584. The city of Den Haag has a history of more than 700 years. Opposite to the lake, there is a piece of green land with long benches. Travelers could take a short rest under umbrage and look at the historical buildings in the surrounding. They kept the original appearance in medieval times.

这座城市最具代表性和吸引力的景观是霍夫维耶弗湖。 在湖的中央,有一个小岛,上面种满了植物和树木。 这些矗立在水边有众多小烟囱的古老建筑是自 1584 年以来荷兰共和国的政府建筑群。海牙这座城市足足已有 700 多年的历史。湖对面是一片绿地,布置着长凳。 游客可以在树影婆娑中稍作休息,环视周围保留了中世纪的原始外貌的历史建筑。

Mauritshuis

Another historic building in the lakeside is the art museum, Maurituis. The museum houses the Royal Cabinet of Paintings which consists of 854 objects, mostly Dutch Golden Age paintings. It was the residence of count John Maurice, the governor of Dutch Brazil, and the Prince of Nassau-Siegen in the 17th century.

湖边的另一座历史建筑是莫里斯艺术博物馆。该博物馆收藏了包括 854 件物品的皇家珍品内藏,其中主要是荷兰黄金时代的绘画。它曾经是 17 世纪荷属巴西总督以及拿骚-锡根亲王约翰·莫里斯伯爵的住所。

Girl with a Pearl Earring 

The most famous oil painting of this museum is the ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’. It was created by the Dutch Golden Age painter Johannes Vermeer in 1665. It depicts a European girl wearing an exotic dress, an oriental turban, and a very large pearl as an earring. This painting is as famous as the ‘Mona Lisa’ since both young girls in each painting have an enigmatic smile on their beautiful faces. Vermeer has a wonderful mastery of light effect and he used chiaroscuro rather than line to create form. The reflection on her lips and on the earring show the effect of light on different surfaces. This painting is no doubt the centerpiece of the museum. Even faraway from the museum, the banner of this painting could be seen clearly.

这座博物馆中最著名的油画是《戴珍珠耳环的女孩》。 它由荷兰黄金时代的画家约翰内斯·维米尔(Johannes Vermeer)于 1665 年创作。它描绘了一个身着异国情调的连衣裙,头戴东方头巾,以及一颗巨大珍珠作为耳环的欧洲女孩。这幅画与《蒙娜丽莎》一样著名。这两幅画中的年轻女孩美丽的脸上都挂着一丝神秘的微笑。维米尔对光线效果有着出色的掌控,他使用明暗对比而不是线条来塑造外形。女孩的嘴唇和耳环上的反射展示了光线在不同表面上的效果。这幅画无疑是博物馆的镇馆之宝。即使在远处,也能清晰看到这幅画的宣传横幅。

Binnenhof

Alongside the Mauritshuis, there is an ancient path of bricks leading towards the quiet inner courtyard of Binnenhof. The Binnenhof is a series of government complex. It houses the meeting place of both houses of the States General of the Netherlands and the Ministry of General Affairs. The houses look like the medieval gothic castles. They were built in 13th century and were the oldest Parliament buildings in the world. Even nowadays they are still in use and the North Wing is still the meeting place of the Upper House. The coat arm of Dutch Republic and the House of Nassau is a blue checkered shield with a lion grasping a sword in one hand and a bundle of arrows in the other. This kind of lion could be observed frequently in the Dutch royal building, for example on the lintel of the arch.

在莫里斯艺术博物馆旁边,有一条铺满红砖的古老道路通往安静的内院。Binnenhof 内院是一系列政府建筑。它是荷兰国家议会和参众两院的议会场所。这些看起来像中世纪的哥特式城堡的建筑建于 13 世纪,是世界上最古老的议会建筑。 时至今日,它们仍在正常使用,建筑群的北翼仍是上议院的议会场所。荷兰共和国和拿骚家族的徽章是一个蓝色的格子底以及一只狮子一手握着剑,另一只手握着一束箭。这种造型的狮子经常出现在荷兰皇家建筑中,例如本照片中拱门的门楣上。

Ridderzaal

This area has been the center of Dutch politics for many centuries. The cathedral like building in the inner court yard is called Ridderzaal or Hall of Knights. It was completed in 1280 and used for festival occasions in the history. Only in the 20th century, the Hall of Knights was repaired and became the main venue used for the congress and important meetings. The interior is decorated delicately with nineteen wall hangings bearing the arms of the twelve Dutch provinces and the overseas parts of the Kingdom. The Dutch parliamentary democracy consists of three parts: execution, legislation, and jurisdiction. For legislation, the Dutch parliament is made up of two chambers: the 150-seat, directly-elected lower house (House of Representatives) and the 75-seat upper house (Senate). Both houses traditionally meet in the hall of Ridderzaal on the third Tuesday of September.

几个世纪以来这片区域一直是荷兰政治的中心。 这座内院里的大教堂式建筑被称为 Ridderzaal 或骑士厅。 它于1280年完工,历史上曾用于庆祝节日。 直到20世纪,骑士厅经过修复,成为两院会议以及一些重要会议的场所。 它的内部装饰精美,共有十九个壁挂,上面挂着荷兰十二个省和海外地区的徽章。荷兰的议会民主由三部分组成:行政、立法和司法。 在立法方面,荷兰议会由两院组成:150 个席位的下议院(众议院)和 75 个席位的上议院(参议院)。两院传统上每年 9 月的第三个星期二在这里的大厅举行会议。

At the moment I was standing on the brick paved ground. Behind me, it’s the north wing of the government parliament. It has a beautiful arcade of renaissance style. There is small gate called Stadhouderspoort leading to the outside. It was a beautiful sunny morning in autumn and some Dutch people took bicycles and passed through the gate cozily. In the history, the gate was only available for the chief magistrate (stadholder) and after 1795 it was allowed to be used by everyone.

此刻我正站在内庭砖砌的地面上。在我身后,是政府议会的北翼。 它有个美丽的文艺复兴风格的拱廊。一个名为Stadhouderspoort的小门通向外侧。这是一个阳光明媚的美好秋日早晨,一些荷兰人骑着自行车悠然穿过这座拱门。 历史上,这座城门只供城市的管理者(stadholder)使用,只是1795年后才允许所有民众使用。

Noordeinde Palace

The political system of the Netherlands is a constitutional monarchy, similar to Great Britain. King acts as the head of state. Noordeinde Palace is one of the three official palaces of the Dutch royal family. It was used as the official workplace of King Willem-Alexander since 2013. The palace originated as a medieval farmhouse, which was converted into a spacious residence in 1533. This neoclassical palace looks modest and simple, hiding among the residential houses and shops. After the restoration in 1984, the Palace became the Dutch Monarch’s workplace and office. When I arrived, the flag at the back of the house was raised. It means that the King was working in the office that day.

荷兰的政治制度是类似于英国的君主立宪制。国王担任国家元首。 Noordeinde Palace是荷兰王室的三个官方宫殿之一。 从2013 年起,威廉-亚历山大国王就用它作为的官方办公场所。这座宫殿起源于中世纪的农舍,1533 年被改建为宽敞的住宅。这座新古典主义的宫殿看起来质朴简单,有种大隐隐于市的味道。 1984年修复后,它成为荷兰君主的工作场所和办公室。当我抵达时,房子后面的旗帜已然升起说明国王这天在办公室里勤政为民。

In front of the palace it is the bronze statue of William I of Orange. This statue was erected in 1845 and designed by a French sculptor. William the prince of Orange was the founder of the House of Orange-Nassau. He played a critical role in the independence of the Netherlands. He organized the Dutch revolt against Spanish rule during the Eighty Years’ War and was assassinated for many times due to this reason. Several members of the Orange-Nassau house reigned the Netherlands Republic as governor or stadholder. After 1815, the Netherlands Republic became a monarchy under the House of Orange-Nassau.

宫殿前是奥朗日威廉一世的铜像。这座雕像由一位法国雕塑家设计建于 1845 年。奥朗日王子威廉是奥朗日-拿骚家族的创始人。他在荷兰的国家独立中发挥了关键作用。在八十年战争期间他曾组织了多次荷兰人反抗西班牙统治的起义,并因此多次被暗杀。奥朗日-拿骚家族的几位成员后来以总督的身份统治着荷兰共和国。1815年后,荷兰共和国成为奥朗日-拿骚家族下的君主制国家。

The Peace Palace

The iconic building in Den Haag is the Peace Palace. It houses the International Court of Justice which is the principal judicial body of the United Nations. In 1903, the American steel magnate Andrew Carnegie donated US$1.5 million to build it. Laterally, an eternal peace flame was installed in front of its gates to reminder people the importance of peace. During the 19th century, the idea of peace flourished in the world. The “First Peace Conference” was hold in Den Haag to call for global disarmament, international jurisdiction and arbitration through the establishment of the Permanent Court of Arbitration and International Court of Justice. The Peace palace was built to house these organizations under the environment. Although it is an UN building, you could still book a tour online to visit the inside.

海牙的标志性建筑当属和平宫。它是联合国的主要司法机构国家法庭的所在地。1903年,美国钢铁大王安德鲁·卡奈基捐资150万美元建造了这座建筑。后来它的大门前安置了永恒的和平火焰,以提醒人们和平的重要性。19世纪,和平理念在世界范围内盛行。 “第一次和平会议”即由此在海牙召开,呼吁通过设立仲裁法院和国际法院,实现全球化裁军、国际管辖和仲裁。 和平宫就是在这种国际环境下建造而成。虽然它是联合国大楼,但仍然可以在线预订游览并参观内部。

Nieuwe Kerk 

In the city center of Den Haag, I could still find some historical buildings although most of items are so modern. The New church is a Dutch Baroque Protestant church built in 1649 after the Great Church was too small to hold so many devotees. The church has an abundance of wood carvings from the 17th century, an oak roof construction and stained glass windows. Maybe because of Protestant belief, the outlook of this church is not like the traditional church, it has a weird hexagon shape instead.

在海牙市中心,尽管如今举目都是现代元素但仍然可以看到一些历史建筑。这座新教堂是一座荷兰巴洛克式新教教堂,建于 1649 年。当时的主教堂太小,无法容纳这么多信徒故此诞生了这座教堂。 教堂装饰有大量的 17 世纪木雕、橡木屋顶和彩色玻璃窗。也许是因为新教的缘故,这座教堂的外观并不像传统的教堂,而是奇怪的六边形。

The grave of Baruch Spinoza

From 1588 to 1672, it was a great period for Netherlands called The Dutch Golden Age. During this period, Dutch trade, science, and art were among the most acclaimed in Europe. The most important Dutch philosopher at that time must be Spinoza. In his book Ethics, Spinoza discusses his beliefs of three kinds of knowledge, the knowledge of experiences, the knowledge involves reasoning plus emotions, and the knowledge of God. His philosophy system is called Spinozism. If I didn’t come here, I would not know that such a great person was buried in this church. The Greek letters on his grave are ‘Terra hic Benedicti de Spinoza in Ecclesia Nova olim sepulti ossa tegit’ which means ‘The earth here covers the bones of Benedictus de Spinoza once buried in the New Church.’

1588 年到 1672 年间,这是属于荷兰的一个伟大时期,被称为荷兰黄金时代。 在这期间,荷兰的贸易、科学和艺术在欧洲广受赞誉的。当时最重要的荷兰哲学家一定是斯宾诺莎。斯宾诺莎在他的《伦理学》一书中讨论了他对三种知识的信仰,即经验知识、涉及推理和情感的知识以及对上帝的认识。他的哲学体系被称为斯宾诺莎主义。如果我不是恰巧路过这里,也就不会知晓这位伟大的哲学家就埋葬在这个教堂里。 他坟墓上的希腊字母是“Terra hic Benedicti de Spinoza in Ecclesia Nova olim sepulti ossa tegit”,意思是“这片土地覆盖了曾经埋葬在新教堂的斯宾诺莎的骸骨。”

Grote of Sint-Jacobskerk

The oldest building in Den Haag must be the Great church built in 13th century. Most of its structure are made of brick. It has a symbolic six-sided high tower up to 93 meter. On the top of the tower, the big bells’ history could be traced back to 17th century. Nowadays this church is not used for religious activities, except for royal baptisms and weddings. Members of the House of Orange-Nassau like King Willem-Alexander and his daughter Princess Catharina-Amalia have been baptized there. It was three o’clock in the afternoon at the moment of my arrival. I still remember that I passed by the church and looked up the brown tower against the blue sky in the autumn. Den Haag is not a city famous of tourism but it will still leave something in my memory.

海牙最古老的建筑当属建于13世纪的大教堂。它的大部分结构都是用砖砌成的并且有一个高达93米的标志性六边形高塔。塔顶大钟的历史可以追溯到17世纪。如今这座教堂除了皇家洗礼和婚礼外,不再用于宗教活动。奥朗日-拿骚家族的成员,如威廉-亚历山大国王和他的女儿凯瑟琳娜-阿玛莉亚公主,都曾在此受洗。时至今日仍然会回味那个秋天的下午三点,我恰好经过大教堂,仰望着蓝天映衬着棕色的塔楼。海牙不是一个以旅游业闻名的城市,但它仍然会在我的记忆中依稀留下一些掠影。

Old City Hall

The city hall today used today is a very modern building which is a bit boring however it’s recommended to visit the Old City Hall which is a Renaissance style building near the Great Church. It is the former seat of the city’s government, and still keeps a place where residents hold wedding ceremonies, and where the Royal family register their family births. On the façade, there is letter ANNO 1565 which means the city hall was built in 1565. The 5 statues on the roof top depict “Faith”, “Hope”, “Love”, “Strength”, and “Justice”. They were made by the Hague sculptor Jan Baptist Xavery before 1742.

如今使用的海牙市政厅是一座非常现代的建筑略显沉闷所以特别建议到大教堂附近的这座文艺复兴风格老市政厅参观。这里曾是市政府所在地,至今仍保留着居民举行婚礼和皇室登记出生的功能。它的正面有ANNO 1565字样,意思是市政厅建于1565年。屋顶上的5尊雕像分别代表了“信仰”、“希望”、“爱”、“力量”和“正义”。 它们由海牙雕塑家 Jan Baptist Xavery 在 1742 年之前陆续制作。

The city center of Den Haag is just a small area for travel. In the afternoon, I wandered around the outskirt of the city. Netherlands has perfect city plans. There are so many public parks and open spaces in the suburb. The life here is more comfortable compared to other crowded metropolis in the world. As we know, New York has a large central park but it only serves better the rich people living around it. The urban design in Netherlands is much better since everyone could easily visit the park which is near their houses and relax themselves fully on the weekend.

海牙市中心只是一个适合旅行的小快区域。下午我乘兴在城郊闲游。荷兰有完美的城市规划。海牙郊区有众多公园和开放空间。与世界上其他拥挤的大都市相比,这里的生活更加舒适令人向往。众所周知,纽约市中心有一个大型的中央公园,但它只是为周围的富人提供更好的服务。荷兰的城市设计则更加完善,每个人都可以轻松地游览自己居所附近的公园并在周末充分放松自己。

Clingendael

Clingendael park is one of the most beautiful park located between The Hague and Wassenaar. Since the sixteenth century, various garden and landscape architects have contributed towards its look and atmosphere. In the 19th century the garden architect Zocher replaced the garden’s original French design by the English landscape style. ‘Clingendael’ is the name of the 17th-century manor house in this picture. It means valley in the dunes. Nowadays the manor houses the Clingendael Institute.

Clingendael 公园是位于海牙和瓦塞纳尔之间的美丽的公园。 自十六世纪以来,各种花园和景观设计师为其景观加砖添瓦。19世纪期间,园林建筑师佐赫以英式景观风格取代了花园原有的法式设计。 “Clingendael”是这张照片中 17 世纪庄园的名称,意为沙丘中的山谷。 如今,庄园内设有 Clingendael 研究所。

This park is extremely spacious. Behind the manor, there is a large playground and field where children play and families enjoy picnics. Large pieces of meadows allow the lambs browsing on grass freely and leisurely. The world in Netherlands is placid and peaceful. I can always discover some wild animals living together with human beings harmoniously.

这个公园非常宽敞。庄园后面有一个大型游乐场和田野,供孩子们玩耍和家庭野餐。小羊们在大片的草地上悠闲自在地觅食,小日子悠哉悠哉。荷兰的生活总体平静祥和,这里总能发现一些与人类和谐相处的野生动物。

This is one street view of Den Haag. There are not so many tourist attractions in this city so I have plenty of time to observe how the local people live. Like other cities in Netherlands, bicycle is one important transportation for them. Also, Dutch people are friendly and can speak English very well. In deed, English is widely used in this country. For tourists, they will not feel difficult when they come here. Although there is nothing special in this city, I think it is still recommended to visit it in a relaxing manner and enjoy one common leisure day in the midst of your rushed trip.

这是海牙一处街景。这个城市并没有那么多旅游景点,所以我有足够的时间来观察当地人的生活。与荷兰其他城市一样,自行车是他们的重要交通工具。 此外,荷兰人也很友好,英语极其流利。英语在这个国家真的是被广泛使用。对于游客来说,来到这里旅游自然不会觉得困难。虽然这座城市并没有什么特别之处,但我认为还是建议在匆忙的旅途中抽空悠闲地游览一番,享受平凡一天的休闲时光。

Rotterdam’s modernism from past to present

鹿特丹现代主义的昨日今昔

Rotterdam is an important harbor connecting to North Sea. Unfortunately, it was completely destroyed in the World War II and rebuilt totally based on a modernist urban plan after the war. For tourists, if you want to explore the landscape of medieval city, it would not be your best choice definitely. It’s true that Rotterdam’s urban landscape is totally different from other cities in the Netherlands. However, in this city you could discover how it revived from the damages of the war tenaciously and how the architects modernists reinvented this city in the past 70 years.

鹿特丹是连接北海的重要港口。 遗憾的是它在二战中被彻底摧毁,战后按照现代城市规划进行了彻底重建。 对于游客而言,如果你想探索中世纪城市的风景,这里绝对不是你的最佳选择。鹿特丹的城市景观诚然与荷兰其他城市大相径庭。 然而在这座城市,你会体会到它是如何顽强地从战争的破坏中缓步恢复并且目睹现代主义建筑师是如何在过去 70 年里重塑这座城市。

I visited Rotterdam in September 2020 after my trip of windmills in Kinderdijk. This is my first view of the city from the south bank of Nieuwe Maas which is a distributary of the Rhine River, and a former distributary of the Maas River. Rotterdam has the nicknames ‘Gateway to Europe’ because the river Nieuwe Maas connects the North Sea and the heart of Western Europe (like the highly industrialized area Ruhr) directly. Most of the buildings at the riverside are closed aligned skyscrapers. Rotterdam is famous for the excellent urban design and plan. In 2015, it was crowned the best urbanized city in Europe.

在小孩堤防的风车之旅之后,我于 2020 年 9 月游览了鹿特丹。 这是我从新马斯河南岸对这座城市第一眼印象。这里是莱茵河的支流,也是马斯河的一个分流。这条新马斯直接连接北海和西欧的心脏比如高度工业化的鲁尔区故此鹿特丹有“通往欧洲的门户”的绰号。河边的大部分建筑都是紧密排列的摩天大楼。鹿特丹以卓越的城市设计和规划而闻名,2015 年被评为欧洲最佳市政规划城市。

Erasmusbrug 

The icon of city landscape is of course the Erasmus bridge stretching over the river. It is named by the city’s famous scholar Desiderius Erasmus and has a nickname ‘the swan’ due to its elegant shape. The bridge was designed by the Dutch architect Ben van Berkel and completed in 1996. It is a masterpiece of the urban modernism. The most awe-inspiring element is the span of the bridge, totally 802 meters.

鹿特丹的标志景观当属横跨新马斯河的伊拉斯谟大桥。 它由当地著名学者德西德里乌斯·伊拉斯谟(Desiderius Erasmus)命名,因其优雅的造型而有“天鹅”的绰号。 这座桥由荷兰建筑师本·范伯克尔设计,于1996年竣工,是城市现代主义建筑的杰作。 最令人惊叹的是这座桥的跨度,全长802米。

It is a combined cable-stayed and bascule bridge. I walked from the southside of the river to the northside through the bridge enthusiastically. Under my feet, it is the busy water way for thousands of boats passing everyday. It has two platforms for pedestrians to have a rest and overlook the city. I took this picture under the bridge’s blue pylon which is extremely high, up to 139 meters. This single pylon is positioned on southside of the river with a backward lean and supported by 16 pairs of front stay cables and 2 sets of back stay cables.

它是一座斜拉式开合桥。我兴致勃勃地从河的南岸穿过大桥走到北岸。我的脚下便是过尽千帆的繁忙水道。大桥上有两个平台供行人休息和俯瞰整个城市。这张照片是在蓝色桥塔下拍摄的,桥塔很高,高达139米。这座唯一的桥塔位于河的南侧,并向后倾斜,由16对前拉索和2组后拉索支撑。

Maritime District

In the north of the Erasmus bridge, it is the Maritime District of the city. Here the tourists could experience why Rotterdam was the most important harbor in the world. Dutch Republic used to be a maritime superpower in the 16th and 17th century. The Maritime museum that records the origin of Dutch navigation is also located in this district. This ancient brigantine harbored in the Leuvenhaven which is the commercial port nowadays represents the glorious history of this maritime empire who ruled South America (modern Guiana and Brazil), south Africa, west Africa (modern Ghana), and North America (New York) in the 17th century.

在伊拉斯谟大桥的北岸便是是鹿特丹的海事区。 在这里,游客可以感受到鹿特丹缘何是世界上最重要的港口。荷兰共和国曾经是 16 世纪和 17 世纪的海上超级大国。记录荷兰航海渊源的海事博物馆也位于该区。这艘古老的双桅船停泊在如今的鲁汶港展览,它代表着这个17世纪统治南美(圭亚那和巴西)、南非、西非(加纳)和北美洲(纽约)的海上帝国的辉煌历史。

There are numerous boats, cargo ships, and gantry cranes at the pier. You could even get a Water taxi service like taking a bus normally. Overseas trade was always a traditional cornerstone of the Dutch economy. Rotterdam acted as a key role of connecting Netherlands with other parts of the world. From 1962 until 2004, it was the world’s busiest port by annual cargo tonnage. The port stretches over a distance of more than 40 kilometers so when you stood at the pier at the Maritime District and stared at the far west end, you could catch the view of hustle and bustle of those dockworkers under the glow of the setting sun.

这个码头内有众多小船、货船和龙门起重机。游客甚至可以像正常乘坐公共汽车一样获得水上出租车服务。海外贸易一直是荷兰经济的基石。 鹿特丹在连接荷兰与世界其他地区方面发挥了关键作用。从 1962 年到 2004 年,按年货物吨位吞吐计算,它是世界上最繁忙的港口。 整个港口绵延40多公里,站在海事区的码头,向西遥望着远处天边的尽头,夕阳余晖下码头工人络绎不绝。

In Netherlands, when you are free, you could always take your time to stroll along the river banks. The cities and villages in this countries are intersected by numerous canals and rivers. The Maritime District is also a piece of land divided by some artificial water ways. The new port and old port are connected with each other by the water ways. There are different types of boats wandering on the occupied river, barges, dinghies, and fishing boats assembling on this narrow water way. For Rotterdam, the life on water is so busy as well!

在荷兰,空闲之余亦可在河边悠然漫步。这个国家的城市和村庄由许多河道和河流交错相连。海事区也是一块被人工水道分割的土地。新港与旧港之间有水路相通。熙熙攘攘的河流上游荡着各式各样的船只,各种驳船、小艇和渔船皆聚集在这条狭窄的水道上。对鹿特丹居民来说,水上生活也是如此忙碌!

Oude Haven

Although most of the old buildings are destroyed during the war, you could still find traces of past in the Oude Haven, i.e. old port. Many historic ships with stained and spotted hulls were narrating the origin of the city silently. The old port is the place where history and modernity fully unite. The building white glazed bricks at the background is the ‘White House’ built between 1897 and 1898 in the Art Nouveau style. At that time, it was the tallest building in the Netherlands. Also it was the only building remaining in the Oude Haven after the bombardment of German air force. In comparison with the surrounding uniform modernity, it is indeed a unique existence.

尽管大部分老建筑在战争中被毁,但在老港口游客仍然可以追寻昔日的似水年华。许多船体斑驳历史悠久的船只都在默默讲述这座城市的古老历史。老港口也是历史与现代充分融合的地方。背景里这座白色琉璃砖的建筑是建于1897年至1898年间的新艺术风格的鹿特丹白宫。 当时它是荷兰最高的建筑。 它也是老港口德国空军轰炸后唯一剩下的建筑物。与周围一致的现代风格对比,它确实是那独一无二的存在。

The old port is a popular place for locals to meet and have a fun night life. There are so many bars and restaurants here with which the tourists will feel difficult to choose. I was sitting at the terrace of one of the restaurants at the waterside and enjoyed the panoramic view of the port. The ripples under the sunsets and the reflected shadows were so appealing.

旧港口是当地人聚会和享受美好夜生活的绝佳场所。这里遍地酒吧餐馆,游客自然会很难抉择。我此刻坐在水边一家餐厅的露台上,欣赏着港口的全景。 夕阳下的涟漪,倒映的疏影,是如此动人令人回味。

Regentessebrug

Another building surviving in the second world war is this bridge called Regentesse. When you traverse the waterways in the Maritime District, you will notice this bridge which architecture style is obviously different with the surroundings. This bridge made of Granite, cast iron, and sandstone was built in 1898. At that time, Art Nouveau was booming and the architecture style would approach modernism gradually however it still kept some decorative elements of the past. For example, you could easily find the sculpture of a small dolphin on each pillar of the bridge. In addition, the candlesticks invested with copper and the four bronze lions impressed me as well. When I walked on the bridge and touched the historical balustrade, I felt that It was really a miracle that it could withstand the damage of bombs and live until today.

在第二次世界大战中幸存下来的另一座建筑是这座名为 Regentesse 的桥。 当你横穿海事区的水路时,你会注意到这座建筑风格与周围截然不同的桥。这座由花岗岩、铸铁和砂岩制成的桥建于1898年。当时新艺术运动蓬勃发展,建筑风格也逐渐过渡到现代主义,但仍保留了一些历史上的装饰元素。例如你可以一眼发现在桥底的每根柱子上都有一只小海豚的雕塑。另外镀铜的烛台和四只青铜狮子也给我留下了深刻的印象。 桥上凭栏而触,我不由得感叹这座桥能经受住炸弹的破坏坚挺到今日着实是一个奇迹。

Kubuswoningen

Rotterdam’s modernism in architecture could be well reflected by some ‘bizarre’ and creative designs in the city center. When you pass by them occasionally, you will utter an ‘omg’ exclamation definitely. The yellow Cube Houses in the photo are one of the city’s most iconic attractions that impress the tourists all around the world. These cubes designed by architect Piet Blom are tilted 54.7 degrees and are optimized to create the available space. The design represents a village within a city, where each house represents a tree, and all the houses together, a forest. They are still the private houses. If you are really curious of its interior, you may explore the Show Cube Museum.

鹿特丹市中心的一些“奇异古怪”和创造性的建筑设计最能彰显它的现代主义。 当你无意间邂逅它们之时,一定会不由地发出“omg”的感叹。照片中的黄色立方体房屋就是是这座城市最具标志性的景点之一,也给世界各地的游客留下了深刻的印象。 这些由建筑师 Piet Blom 设计的立方体倾斜 54.7 度,并经过优化以创造更多的可用空间。 这种设计代表了城市中的一个村庄,每个房子都象征一棵树,所有的立方体房子汇聚起来就代表了一片森林。它们仍是私人住宅,如果真的对它的内部结构感到好奇,您你可以参观展示立方体的博物馆。

Markthal

Another striking building to be mentioned must be the Markthal or market hall. Look at its ostentatious appearance! It has a shiny steel façade covered with glass that makes it look like a huge mirror. The shape is designed like a tennis racket. You could hardly imagine that this huge building which size is 40 m high, 70 m wide and 120 m long is just a indoor market. It is similar to the San Miguel Market in Madrid but it is really too large with more than 100 stalls selling from fresh bread to delicious cheese, fish, vegetable and poultry and even flowers and plants. Tourists could taste the local foods here and experience the exciting local life.

另一位闪亮登场的建筑当属Markthal 市场大厅。 就看看它那张扬浮夸的外表! 它有一个闪亮的钢制立面,上面覆盖着玻璃,使它看起来像一面巨大的平面镜。它的总体形状设计得像网球拍。你很难想象这座高40米、宽70米、长120米的巨大建筑只是一个室内市场。它类似于马德里的圣米格尔市场,但它确实太庞大了,里面共计有 100 多个摊位,从新鲜面包到美味的奶酪、鱼、蔬菜和家禽,甚至花卉和植物,应有尽有。 游客可以在这里品尝当地美食,体验当地精彩纷呈的生活。

The vaulted interior is covered by a large mural painting, consisting of many small glass mosaics. Its theme is cornucopia which represents a symbol of plenty consisting of a goat’s horn overflowing with flowers, fruit, and corn in the Greek mythology. This modern art work is designed by artists Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam. It shows colorful images of so many foods and fruits alongside flowers and insects. The enlarged images are composed by Pixar software and printed onto perforated aluminum panels.

市场的拱形内部覆盖着一幅巨型壁画,它由许多玻璃小马赛克组成。它的主题就是希腊神话中代表着丰盛象征的开满了鲜花、水果和玉米的山羊的角。这件现代艺术作品由艺术家 Arno Coenen 和 Iris Roskam 设计。它展示了许多色彩缤纷的食物和水果以及鲜花和昆虫的图像。这些放大的图像由 Pixar 软件合成并打印在穿孔铝板上。

Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk 

Although Rotterdam is a modernized city, there are still a few historic buildings in the city center. The Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk is a Protestant church built between 1449 and 1525. It is the only remnant of the medieval city of Rotterdam. It’s close to the market hall, its high tower is easy to be identified. This church is a special symbol of Rotterdam’s history. In the Middle Ages, citizenship of Rotterdam could be purchased by contributing 3000 stones to the construction of the church tower. It also represents the resilience of Rotterdam’s people who rebuilt this city from the rubbles of the second World War.

鹿特丹虽是一座现代化城市,但市中心仍保留有几座历史建筑。 圣劳伦斯克就是一座建于 1449 年至 1525 年之间的新教教堂。它是鹿特丹唯一的中世纪城市遗迹。它靠近市场大厅,代表性的高塔很容易识别。 这座教堂在鹿特丹历史也具有特殊意义。中世纪的居民可以通过捐赠3000块石头建造教堂塔楼来获得鹿特丹的公民身份。同时它也象征了鹿特丹人民从第二次世界大战的废墟中重建这座城市坚强不屈的精神。

Behind the church it is a small square full of dense greenery. Dutch urban plan is really fantastic. Although it’s a populated country with limited land space, I could always find some lawns and trees in every corner of the city. It was a warm afternoon. Many people walked leisurely around this area.

教堂后面是一个小广场,满是茂密的绿色植物。 荷兰的城市规划真是令人赞不绝口。 虽然这是一个人口稠密的国家,土地空间有限,但我总能在城市的每个角落发现一些草坪和树木。 那是一个温暖的下午。 许多人这一带信步闲庭。

In this square I found this bronze statue dedicated to Desiderius Erasmus, the Dutch philosopher who is considered one of the greatest scholars of the northern Renaissance. He lived in the time of European religious Reformation in 16th century and promoted syncretism, involving the merging or assimilation of several originally discrete traditions, especially in the theology and mythology of religion. His most notable work is ‘In Praise of Folly’ which attack on superstitions and on the Western Church satirically. This statue was designed by the Dutch sculptor Hendrick de Keyser in 17th century.

这个广场上还树立了这座纪念德西德里乌斯·伊拉斯谟的青铜雕像。这位荷兰哲学家被认为是北方文艺复兴时期最伟大的学者。 他生活在 16 世纪欧洲宗教改革时期,提倡融合或同化几个原本离散的宗教神学传统的融合主义。 他最著名的作品是“愚人颂”,讽刺地抨击了封建迷信和西方教会。这座雕像由荷兰雕塑家 Hendrick de Keyser 于 17 世纪设计。

Stadhuis Rotterdam

In the city center, another old building surviving the second world war is the city hall of Rotterdam. It was built between 1914 and 1940 as per Queen Wilhelmina’s request. It has a symmetrical design like a French palace and is designed in a Renaissance style that is not the typical style of Dutch city halls. The most impressive part of the building is the 70-meter high tower including a clock, a bell, and an angel of peace at the top. Tourists could enter the court yard through the arch entrance and look at the surroundings.

在市中心,另一座在二战中幸存下来的老建筑是鹿特丹市政厅。 它根据威廉女王的要求建于 1914 年至 1940 年间。它具有法国宫殿般的对称设计并采用文艺复兴风格,与荷兰典型的市政厅设计风格完全不同。这座建筑最令人印象深刻的就是70米高的塔楼,塔顶有一个大钟和一个代表和平的天使。游客可以通过拱门进入庭院参观。

Het park

Close to the city center, I passed by a small piece of park with ornate gardens by the water. Het park is designed in 1852 by Dutch architect Zocher who was inspired by the English country style. There are small small pavilions and BBQ spots here. It’s a perfect place for family having a outdoor party. The park is at the corner of the observation tower Euromast.

在老城区我顺路经过了一个装饰有华丽的花园的水畔公园。这座Het 公园由荷兰建筑师 Zocher 于 1852 年设计,他的灵感来源与英国乡村风格。这里遍布小亭子和烧烤点,适合家庭聚会。 公园位于Euromast观景塔的脚下。

Euromast is a modernism tower with height of 184.6 meters. It used to be the highest building of the Netherlands. Tourists could take lifts to the top of the tower and enjoy the panoramic view of Rotterdam. All the landscapes of row-upon-row skyscrapers, slender Erasmus bridge, scenic Het park, gushing Mass river are within my eyes. Indeed, from aerial view of city’s skyline, all the buildings no matter near or faraway are so modern!

Euromast 是一座高度为 184.6 米现代风格的观景塔。它曾是荷兰最高的建筑。 游客可以乘电梯到塔顶,欣赏鹿特丹的全景。鳞次栉比的摩天大楼、修长的伊拉斯谟大桥、风景秀丽的Het公园、川流不息的马斯河,一切尽在我眼前。 居高临下鸟瞰城市的天际线,所有的建筑无论远近都是如此现代!

Westersingel

I have spent one day in Rotterdam. Before I left the city, I remembered one more charming layout of this city is the canal lined with lawns on each side. The Westersingel is located near the Central Station and it’s a short canal decorated with old trees and vegetations. I could enjoy the view of modernism sculptures along this pretty canal and walk all the way towards the train station. During the second half of the nineteenth century, the city became overpopulated and the environment was unhealthy to live in. The Westersingel canal was dug as part of a water project in order to improve the quality of the surface water in the city. This was an effective way of tackling deadly diseases such as cholera.

我在鹿特丹度过了美好一天。 在临行之际想起这座城市的另一个温馨的城市布局就是两旁种满了草坪的运河。Westersingel运河位于中央火车站附近,是一条用古树和植被装饰的小运河。我沿着这条美丽的运河一路欣赏现代主义雕塑直达火车站。在 19 世纪下半叶,鹿特丹人口过剩,居住环境不佳。为了改善城市地表水的质量,市政府进行了Westersingel 运河的挖掘工作并作为供水项目的一部分。这同时也是应对霍乱等靠脏水传染的致命疾病的有效方法。

Centraal Station

At the end of the Westersingel canal, it’s the central station of Rotterdam under feet of high-rises and it’s the time to say goodbye to this lovely city. Compared with the black-and-white photos taken 100 years ago, all the things, buildings, and landscapes have experienced a total metamorphosis except the big clock on the front façade and the letters ‘Centraal Station’. Indeed, war had inflicted pains and damages on the old city but also gave a rebirth to the vibrant new city. The modern Rotterdam is like a volant phoenix, reviving from burnt ashes.

在 Westersingel 运河的尽头,高楼大厦脚下就是鹿特丹的中央车站,是时候与这座可爱的城市道别了。 与100年前的黑白照片相比,除了正立面的大钟和“中央车站”字样外,所有的事物、背景建筑和景观都发生了彻底的蜕变。战争无疑给这座老城带来了巨大的痛苦和毁灭,但也让充满活力的新城就此重建。现代鹿特丹就像一只展翅欲飞的凤凰,涅槃重生。

Idyllic landscape in Kinderdijk

小孩堤防的田园风光

For the love of princess

Before I visit Europe, in my mind, Netherlands is a distant country at the other end of the continent which is famous of tulip and windmill. I never imagine that one day I will have a chance to visit this wonder land like Alice visiting the world that exists in the imagination. Netherlands also means ‘lower country’ due to to its low elevation. Only about half of its land is above sea level. Canal and wetland spread over the whole country and this forms an unique idyllic landscape that you can not find in other places.

游历欧洲之前,在我的脑海里,荷兰是一个以郁金香和风车闻名,位于欧亚大陆的另一端异常遥远的国家。 我从未想过居然有一天我会像爱丽丝一样踏足这片神奇的土地,这片曾经只存在于想象中的世界。 由于海拔过低,荷兰字面意思就是“低地国家”。 它只有大约一半的土地高于海平面。 运河和湿地遍布全国,形成了异域独特的田园风光。

In September 2020, after I finished the trip in Brussels, I took the train towards Netherlands directly. My first stop is Dordrecht. It is a small city near Rotterdam. Actually urbanization in Netherlands has reached a high extent so there is not too much difference between city and rural area. The most common scene in the city of Netherlands is the interleaving of canals flowing through many small bridges.

2020年9月,结束布鲁塞尔之旅后,我坐火车直抵荷兰。 第一站便是多德雷赫特。 这是鹿特丹附近的一个小城市。 实际上荷兰的城市化程度很高,因此城市和农村之间没有太大的区别。 荷兰城市最常见的景观就是运河交错,小桥流水。

I got off the train at the station of Dordrecht in this cool morning as it is the nearest place towards my dreamed destination Kinderdijk. This is my first time of visiting Netherlands so I was curious of every thing here. I didn’t stay a long time in Dordrecht but I still tried record what I had seen in my camera. There are not many high rise buildings in this city and most of the mansions and resident house look quite modern and new.

这个凉爽的早晨我在多德雷赫特站下车,这是离我梦中的目的地小孩堤防最近的城市。 这也是我人生第一次探寻荷兰,故此对这里的一草一木都很好奇。我在多德雷赫特没未逗留很久,但仍然在相机中记下我的所见所闻。 这座城市的高层建筑匮乏,大部分的宅邸和民居感官上都崭新现代。

Next in a short while, I took the direct bus from Dordrecht to Kinderdijk and began this fantastic trip. The name Kinderdijk in Dutch stands for “Children dike”. The windmills of Kinderdijk are one of the best-known Dutch tourist sites. Tourists could rent boats to visit this village. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 since it represents the Dutch outstanding technology of handling water. From far away, their silhouettes against the sun light are really amazing, like the giants waving lance in the novel of Don Quixote.

顷刻之间我便乘坐从多德雷赫特到小孩堤防的直达巴士开启这段神奇之旅。 Kinderdijk 这个名字在荷兰语中意思就是“小孩堤坝”。小孩堤防的风车是荷兰最著名的旅游景点。 游客可以租船游览整个村庄。它代表了荷兰人民高超的水处理技术,并于 1997 年被列为联合国教科文组织世界遗产。 远远望去,在阳光照映下的风车身影真是令人陶醉,他们就像堂吉诃德小说中挥舞长矛的巨人一般。

Kinderdijk is a fascinating village with rural landscape of a total of nineteen 18th-century windmills. These ‘giants’ dancing in the wind are always the icon of Netherlands. These windmills are built to pump excess water into a reservoir from the polder and pump water from the reservoir into river when water level is low. Polder is a piece of low-lying land reclaimed from the sea. Its level will be below the surrounding water level in the long run due to the ground subsidence. As a result, it is a priority for Dutch people to get rid of water from the polder. Even today, this complex system composed of windmills, dykes, reservoirs, pumping stations are still used.

小孩堤防是一个迷人的村庄,共有 19 座 18 世纪建造的风车。这些风中舞动的巨人一直是荷兰的标志。风车的建造是为了将多余的水从圩田泵入水库,并在水位低时将水从水库引入河流。圩田是一片从海中开垦的低洼土地。 由于地面沉降,长期以来它的水位将低于周围。因此荷兰当地人的首要任务就是清除圩田中的积水。时至今日,这个由风车、堤坝、水库、泵站组成的一体系统仍在启用。

Nederwaard Museum Mill

Among the 19 windmills, two of them are built as museum and open for visit. This Nederwaard Museum in the center of this photo was a wooden windmill built in 1738. If you observe closely, you could find the word ‘Anno 1738’ on the white plaque of the mill. You’ll feel like a time-traveler when you enter through the ancient small wooden gate and stare at those remaining black-and-white photos and items used by real miller families. In the creak of the antiquated wheel axis, everything here breathes the atmosphere of ages past.

19座风车中,有两座被建成博物馆,对外开放参观。 这张照片中央的这座内德瓦德博物馆是一座建于 1738 年的木制风车。如果仔细观察,可以在磨坊的白色牌匾上发现“Anno 1738”字样(纪元1738)。从历尽沧桑的木制小门进入博物馆,凝视那些当年生活在此的家庭遗留下来的黑白照片和物品时,人们就会感觉自己如同一个穿越者一般。 在陈旧的轮轴的咯吱声中,这里的一切都弥漫着古老的历史气息。

Kinderdijk is situated in the Alblasserwaard polder at the south side of the river Lek. There is a visiting center at the entrance of the village. I walked along the canal from the entrance towards south. There is no need to buy any tickets if visitors just walk on the footpath at the both banks of the canal. 19 windmills are distributed evenly southwards. The distance between each windmill is quite large so I could just take picture with only one of them. Now I was standing at one small pier. It’s like a platform protruding from the path and is suitable for taking a perfect picture.

小孩堤防位于Lek 河南侧的 Alblasserwaard 圩田。村口便是游客中心。 我从入口沿着运河一路向南。如果游客只是在运河两岸的人行便道上行走,无需购买任何门票。19座风车向南均匀分布。每个风车之间跨距甚远,无奈只能和它们的一员同框合影。此刻我站在一个小码头上。它就像一个从小径伸出的平台,适合拍摄一幅完美的照片。

On the way, I met a group of local people riding bicycles. Unlike other countries, cycling is a very common mode of transport in the Netherlands. Dutch have built a vast network of cycle paths even in the villages around the country. In Kinderdijk, there are some small bridges connecting both banks. They are convenient for the bicycle riders and me as well to cross the canal.

途中偶遇了一群骑自行车的当地人。与其他国家不同,自行车在荷兰是一种非常普遍的交通方式。 荷兰人甚至在全国各地的村庄都建立了庞大的自行车道网络。 在小孩堤防,有一些小桥连接两岸方便骑手和步行的我穿越运河。

The wide footpath is paved by bitumen flatly. It is well designed for both cyclists and pedestrians. On the road sides, reeds are planted and grow in exuberance. Here is a world away from the hubbub of city life and everything is so refreshing. The weather in Netherlands is not so good compared to the sunny Mediterranean coast. It has a typically moderate marine climate so in September, it is usually rainy everyday. I was fortune enough to see blue sky over this land on the day of my trip.

宽阔的人行道由平坦的沥青铺成。它专为自行车骑手和行人而设计。路边种满了枝繁叶茂的芦苇。此处是一个远离城市喧嚣的世界,眼前一切都是令人耳目一新。不过与阳光明媚的地中海沿岸相比,荷兰的天气实在不敢恭维。它是典型的温带海洋气候,在 9 月整月,通常都是阴雨连绵。我十分庆幸在旅行当天能够目睹这片土地上的蓝天白云。

Dutch culture is closely interwoven with the water. It is easy to find small rivers or canals or ponds in the country. The local people like to walk at the riverside or shuttle back and forth in the canals on small boat. This kind of landscape is extremely close to the southeast of China at the side of Yangtze river. At the start of Autumn, numerous dead reed leaves fall all over the sandbar, and the shallow cold water flows and hits the bank silently.

荷兰文化与水息息相关。在该国小河流或运河或池塘无处不在。当地人喜欢在河边散步或乘坐小船在运河中穿梭。这别样的风光似乎有一种似曾相识的感觉。没错秋天伊始,芦叶满汀洲,寒沙带浅流,这正是落花时节的江南好风景啊!

Netherlands will give people an impression of a country with green, flat landscapes and grazing cows. Of course when I stepped on this land, I would know that such a porotype impression is 100% true. In the south of Kinderdijk, there is a large area of meadow where hundreds of cows live in. Cows do not like soggy meadows so it’s important to exclude the extra water and keep the meadow dry. The cows in Netherlands has a more free and better life as well. Based on statistic, 71 percent of Dutch dairy cows were allowed to graze in the meadow. They are fed by grass of high quality in this land. Holstein Friesians is one famous breed of dairy cattle that originates in Netherlands.

荷兰给人的第一印象一般是一个绿意盎然、风吹草低见牛羊的国家。当我真正踏上这片土地时,我就发现这样的田园风光绝对是真实的。 在小孩堤防的南部,有一大片草地, 数百头奶牛在这里生活繁衍。奶牛不喜欢潮湿的草地,排除多余的水并保持草地干燥就显得格外重要。当然荷兰的奶牛也拥有更自由、更美好的生活。据统计,71% 的荷兰奶牛都是放牧而生,它们以这片土地上的优质草料为食。Holstein Friesians就 是一种起源于荷兰著名的奶牛品种。

I definitely believe Kinderdijk is an heaven for animals. Many pieces of lands are reclaimed from the sea and lined out for raising livestock. One horse family was browsing on the meadow silently beside the sluiceway. Their territory is separated by the fences so that no one will disrupt their peaceful life. I like the idyllic landscape here. Every creatures could live well in harmony.

我绝对相信小孩堤防就是是动物的天堂。 这里许多土地从海中开垦出来,用于饲养牲畜。 照片里马儿一家在水闸旁的草地上静静地觅食。他们的领地被栅栏隔开,没有人会干扰他们平静的生活。我尤其倾心这里的田园风光,各种生物都可以和谐相处。

I gave a close-up shot to one of the horses browsing grass. Horse is one of my favorite animals because my Chinese zodiac belongs to horse. I believe that horses will bring luck to me but I did not have chance to observe closely at them before. It’s possible that this horse is the breed of The Dutch Warmblood. It is an athletic breed of competition horse with better stamina and courage.

我特意给其中一匹正在安静吃草的马拍了一张特写。马是我最喜欢的动物之一,我的十二生肖就是马。我也相信马会给我带来好运,不过以前却没有机会仔细观察它们。 这匹马可能是荷兰温血马的品种。它是一种运动型的跑马,具有较好的耐力和勇气。

I took around 2 hours to finish my trip in the country side of Kinderdijk. I seemed to gain endless energy from this magic land. Followingly, I walked around their residence area in Alblasserdam without any rest. The rural areas of Netherlands including their houses and streets really impressed me. These small canals which surfaces are interspersed with water lily pads extend to every corner of the neighborhoods. Small mansions with span-new walls and windows are lined up neatly along both banks.

大约 2 个小时在小孩堤防乡村的旅行戛然而止。而我似乎从这片神奇的土地上获得了无尽的能量。 随后无需任何休息,我又在位于Alblasserdam的居住区周围四处漫步。荷兰的乡村包括他们的房屋和街道均给我留下了深刻的印象。这些水面散布着睡莲的小运河蜿蜒延伸到社区的每个角落。两岸一字排开的小宅邸,它们的墙壁和窗户都如此焕然一新。

The urban landscaping in the community is fantastic. There are always many trees, meadows, and water ponds. I love the cozy environment here. Under the umbrage of willows, I could tranquilly observe the ripples on the water, the frolics of swans, and overhear the whispers of the wind.

社区的景观绿化也异常完善包括许多树木、草地和水塘。这里舒适的环境令我由衷赞叹。 在柳树的树荫下,我静静地观察水面的涟漪,天鹅的嬉戏,并且聆听风的低语。

In the afternoon, I bade farewell to the windmills in Kinderdijk and headed towards my next destination Rotterdam. The public transport system in Netherlands is really convenient. Boat or called water bus is one main mode of transportation is well. In the water bus station Alblasserdam, travelers could take the waterbus No.20 towards Rotterdam Erasmusbrug. In Netherlands, you just need to buy one OV chipcard then you can go anywhere with just one card. It covers all the public transport like metro, bus, ferry, water bus and even train.

午后我告别了小孩堤防的风车,前往下一个目的地鹿特丹。 荷兰的公共交通系统绝对方便。 船或称为水上巴士是也一种主要的交通方式。 在水上巴士站 Alblasserdam,旅客可以乘坐 20 号水上巴士前往鹿特丹 Erasmusbrug站。 在荷兰游客只需购买一张 OV 芯片卡就可以去任何地方。它涵盖了所有公共交通工具,如地铁、公共汽车、渡轮、水上巴士甚至火车。

Lastly I would like to highlight that Kinderdijk is a really fantastic and worthy place to see the beautiful landscape of windmills but it is not the only one. Zaanse Schans is also one recommended place to see the similar scenery. As for which one is better, I could not make comments easily. It depends on your personal experience when you explore them by yourselves in reality. After that definitely like Alice you will find a new world that only existed in your dream before.

最后寄语,小孩堤防是一个非常值得旅游的地方,那里有美不胜收的风车风景,但它不是唯一参观风车的地方。桑斯安斯风车村也是观赏类似风景的推荐地点之一。 至于哪个更好,我不能妄下结论。 也许当你真正自己去探索它们时,才会有一些自己的观点。不过肯定的是,探寻之后你会像爱丽丝一样发现一个以前只存在于你梦中的新世界。