Giethorn in drizzle and breeze

斜风细雨中的羊角村

Tassel

Giethoorn is a small village in the east of Netherlands near the city Steenwijk. It is the most popular tourist site in Netherlands especially for Chinese tourists due to its fairytale and idyllic landscape with numerous bridges and canals. Giethoorn has a reputation of “Dutch Venice” as well. The village has only two thousands habitants but it receive over 1 million tourists each year. It’s really a great achievement for such a small place.

羊角村是荷兰东部的一个小村落,靠近 Steenwijk 市。它是荷兰对中国游客而言最受欢迎的旅游景点,它有着童话般的田园风光,拥有众多的桥梁和交错的运河。羊角村也享有“荷兰威尼斯”的美誉。虽然村中只有两千居民,但它每年接待超过 100 万游客。对于这样的弹丸之地来说,这着实是一项了不起的成就。

Giethoorn is located inside the National Park De Weerribben-Wieden. For tourists the easiest way to get there is to take bus No.70 or walk from the train station of Steenwijk. When I arrived, it was a rainy day in September 2020 and it was a bit cold outdoor. Although Steenwijk is just a stopover, I still had half-forgotten memory of its street view, especially its high cathedral tower and the neat brick-paved roads. It was a cloudy morning with patchy drizzle. I dragged my feet along the wet sidewalks. Only very few cyclists passed by and the whole town was so quiet that I could hear my foot steps clear.

羊角村位于德维尔本-威登国家公园内。 对游客而言,到达那里最简单的方法便是是乘坐 70 路巴士或从 Steenwijk 火车站步行。当我抵达Steenwijk的时候是2020年9月的一个阴雨天,室外有一丝寒意。虽然这里只是一个中转站,但我仍然对它的街景记忆犹新,尤其是它那高耸的大教堂塔楼和整洁的砖砌道路。这是一个阴沉的早晨,下着绵绵细雨。我在湿漉漉的便道上徐徐前行。那时只有极少数骑自行车的人经过,整个小镇是如此的静谧甚至连我的脚步声都听得一清二楚。

Villa Rams Woerthe

On my way to Giethoorn, I accidently passed by one delicately decorated villa. It has flamboyant features of Art Nouveau like the colorful stained glass windows, curve formed doorway and its unsymmetrical design. This building was built in 1899 as a residence house of wealthy Tromp Meester family and now it becomes a museum for visiting. There is a beautiful English style garden in front of the villa and behind the villa it is a 10-hectare park. This area is spacious, really a suitable place for relaxing and breathing fresh air.

在去羊角村的路上,偶遇一栋装饰精美的别墅。 它具有如彩色玻璃窗、曲线门廊和不对称设计等典型的新艺术运动的风格。这座建筑始建于 1899 年,是富有的 Tromp Meester 家族的私人住宅,如今成为供参观的博物馆。别墅前面有一个美丽的英式花园,别墅后面是一个10公顷的公园。 这片区域很宽敞,非常适合放松和呼吸新鲜空气。

Nationaal Park Weerribben Wieden

In the south of Steenwijk, there is a large piece of wetland full of vegetation like reeds, and quaking bogs. This land is the national park of Weerribben Wieden and its area is 100 square kilometers. It is a perfect place of feeling the breathtaking nature of Netherlands. It owns a typical Dutch landscape like wide lakes, stretching waterways, and sheep browsing on grass.

在 Steenwijk 的南部,有一大片湿地,上面长满了芦苇等植被以及遍布泥泞的沼泽。这片土地就是威登国家公园,面积为100平方公里。这是感受荷兰令人叹为观止的自然风光的绝佳场所。它拥有例如宽广湖泊、连绵水道和草上觅食的羊群等典型的荷兰景观。

When I stepped on the National park, I was on this way in the photo straight towards Giethoorn. This famous village was just 3km ahead of me. The weather today was not very good but it did not affect my mood too much. Most people don’t like walk in their trips because they could not tolerate the unexpected bad weather or the exhaustion because of strenuous marches. However for me I think travel on foot is the only way to be close to your destination with zero distance and it’s the easiest and most direct way to discover the unknown beautiful world that only existed in other’s photo albums before.

踏上国家公园,我沿着照片中的小路直插羊角村。这个著名的景点就在我正前方3公里处。今天的天气较差,但并未影响我的心情。绝大多数社畜因为无法忍受意外的恶劣天气或苦于疲惫不堪的强行而厌恶徒步旅行。但对在下而言徒步旅行绝对是零距离接近目的地的唯一方式,也是发现以前只存在于他人相册中的美丽世界的最简单、最直接的方式。

Along the way towards Giethoorn, I found many private houses. The local people in this area all lived in this kind of triangle roof house. There is no fences or wall protecting the houses so I guess that social security in Netherlands should be very good. This kind of rural life is really admirable. The house is surrounded by trees and meadows. Everyday the people living here could see greenery and colorful flourishing flowers just outside the windows.

羊角村的路上,我目睹了很多私人住宅。这片地区的当地人都住在这种三角屋顶的房子里。周围并没有栅栏或围墙保护房屋,我猜想荷兰的社会安全应该是一流的。不过这样的田园生活真是令人羡慕。房子周围环绕着树木和草地。这里的居民每天都能看到窗外的成荫绿树以及五颜六色盛开的鲜花。

This is another private house hiding amid the forest. This area belongs to the village of Giethoorn but it is not at the crowded tourist site. Only when you walk to the village, you could find it on the way surprisingly. It is an ideal residential place with wonderful nature environment. The house perches exactly at one cape surrounded by waterways with reeds. At the beginning of autumn, the silent surface of water is padded with freely dispersed small lily pads. A slow breeze causes gentle ripples across the still surface. It forms a perfect rural landscape of Netherlands in my heart.

这是另一个藏匿于森林中的私人住宅。这片地区虽然属于羊角村,但它不是众人蜂拥的旅游景点。只有恰好徒步,才能在路上惊喜地发现它。这里绝对是个人理想的居住地,自然环境优美。 房子正好坐落在一个被芦苇遍布的水道包围的岬角上。秋日寂静的水面上散落着伶仃的小睡莲。一阵细小的微风在静止的水面上掀起柔和的涟漪。它就是我心目中完美的荷兰乡村景观。

I walked around 1 hour in the light rain until I arrived at the entrance of the village. All the bus or cars can only stop here because the village is only accessible by foot or boat. The canal connect the small waterways in the village. There is one lift bridge over the canal. When boat passes by, the bridge will lift up automatically. This is the first time to see traffic light in the canal. It’s quite interesting!

在羊角村的大路上栉风沐雨疾走1小时后终于抵达村口。所有的公共汽车或私人汽车都只能在这里停下来,羊角村只可以乘船或者步行进入。这条主运河连接村里的小水道。运河上有一座升降桥。当船经过时,桥会自动升起。我平生第一次在运河里看到交通灯,真是大开眼界!

The village consists of canals and small islands which are inter-connected by 176 bridges to the mainland. This is the service area of the village with more modern houses. Tourists could rent a boat to travel the village. There are some tourist shops and restaurants here. Because there are so many Chinese tourists every year, I can even find a Chinese beef noodle restaurant here. All the way towards the end, there is a small bridge which will lead the tourists towards east or west of the village.

该村由众多运河和小岛组成,通过 176 座桥梁与外部相连。这片区域是村里的服务区,房子相对比较现代。游客可以租船游览村庄。这里有一些旅游商店和餐馆。每年大量中国游客蜂拥而至,我居然可以在这里找到一家中国牛肉面馆。沿着图中的路一路走到尽头,有一座小桥将游客引向村子的东边或西边。

I was standing on this old bridge which could be regarded as the entrance of the village center. From here the tourists could view the best picturesque landscape of Giethoorn. Behind me it was the most representative house here that appear on travel magazines for many times.

我站在这座可谓是村中心入口的古桥上。从这里游客可以欣赏到羊角村最美的风景。在我身后的是这里最具代表性的房子,这幅美景曾多次出现在旅游杂志上。

The center of the village is just a small area where the local residents live now. The tourists assemble in this area usually and take around 2 to 4 hours to visit every part of it. Its iconic landscape is the thatched roof farmhouses which are built in the 18th and 19th centuries. The houses are used as barn historically and surrounded by green well-kept lawns with beautiful flowering hydrangeas.

羊角村的中心只是当地居民现在居住的一个小区域。游客通常聚集在这个区域,大约需要 2 到 4 个小时才能参观完它的每个部分。这里标志性景观当属建于 18 世纪和 19 世纪的茅草屋顶农舍。这些房屋在历史上被用作谷仓,周围环绕着修剪完好的绿色草坪和美丽的绣球花从。

Although Giethoorn is called the Venice of Netherlands, it is obviously different with Venice. The waterway and canal here is not large as the Grand canal of Venice. Small boats cruising through the canal could only occupy two or four people. The verdant rural landscape with traditional thatched huts is different with the cultural renaissance palace in Venice as well. Giethoorn is a water village where people could embrace the nature fully. It is in fact more like a small piece of exquisite emerald which is not fully carved and polished.

尽管羊角村被称为荷兰的威尼斯,但与威尼斯有着明显的不同。这里的水路和运河没有威尼斯的大运河那么宽广。此处小船在运河中游弋,只能容纳两到四个人。青翠的乡村风景以及传统的茅草屋交织相应,自然与威尼斯的文艺复兴宫殿大相径庭。羊角村是一个人们可以充分拥抱大自然的水乡。它其实更像是一块未经雕琢和打磨的精美翡翠。

Tourists could also visit Giethoorn on foot along the canal. On one side of the canal, it’s the path for bicycle and pedestrian. The footpath is very narrow and only allows one person to pass by. On the other side of the canal, they are the private houses of local people. Each house has one small bridge connecting to other side. Tourists could take a beautiful picture on the bridge but not disturb the life of the residents. In this village it’s easy to find some mini docks near the resident houses. Small private boats are just left there unattended under the autumn rain. What a leisurely and pleasant life!

众多游客也会选择沿着运河步行游览羊角村。在运河的一侧,是自行车和行人的通道。这种人行道十分狭窄,只允许一个人通过。运河的另一边,是当地人的私人住宅。每间房子对应着一座小桥连接到另一边。游客可以在桥上拍到美丽的照片,但尽量不要打扰居民的生活。在这个村落里,一些迷你码头在居民住宅附近举目皆是。秋潮带雨晚来急,野渡无人舟自横。真是宜人的生活啊!

On the small bridges it was easy to observe the panoramic view of the village. Historically, this village could only be accessed by water. The canal was the main gateway to connect it with the world outside. Obviously it was quite narrow as it’s the main transportation route. If there are many tourists, it will be too crowded on the water. I was fortunate enough to visit it at a suitable time. At this moment, only a few boats traversed to and fro under the bridges.

在小桥上观察村庄的全景。 历史上看这个村庄只能通过水路进入。运河是连接外界的主要通道。 显然作为主要交通线路它实在太狭窄。 如果有很多游客水面会拥挤不堪。我有幸在这个适宜的时机参观了它。此时只有寥寥几艘船在桥下来回穿梭。

Most of the time I was travelling along the axis of the village which name is called Binnepad. The village has a long and narrow shape and is separated by three tiny settlements: Noordeinde, Middenbuurt and Zuideinde. The Dorpsgracht is the central canal that connects these separate settlements. Punter is a kind of traditional flat bottom boat similar to Gondola that is used for transportation over the canals. Some visitors prefer to rent such a boat to drift around the village under the wooden bridge one by one. And some visitors troll around on foot like me.

大部分时间我都沿着村庄的中轴线旅行,这条轴线道路叫做 Binnepad。整个村庄呈狭长形,由三个小定居点分割:Noordeinde、Middenbuurt 和 Zuideinde。Dorpsgracht 是连接这些独立定居点的中央运河。名为punter的平底船是一种传统的类似威尼斯刚朵拉的平底船,用于在运河上进行运输。有的游客喜欢租这样的船在木桥轻舟荡漾。其他游客则像我一样徒步穿行。

Although the village is very small, it still has one museum to record the local history. There are some renovated farmhouses which are the Giethoorn ‘t Olde Maat Uus museum. inside the museum, Visitor can discover how the local people lived more than 100 years ago and how they cut peat and built small boats at that time. There is also a fishing house and a boat house in the yard. It allows you to know how they live difficultly in the history and how they strived for the admirable life nowadays.

村子虽小仍有一座博物馆记录着当地的历史。一些经过翻新的农舍是 Giethoorn ‘t Olde Maat Uus 博物馆。在博物馆内,游客可以了解100多年前当地人的奋斗历程,以及当时他们是如何开采泥炭和建造小船的。院子里还有渔屋和船屋让游客了解历史上的艰难困苦以及如何争取出如今令人羡慕的生活。

The village was built on peatland historically. It was cut into many pieces by the workers and the small islands are formed in this way. The bultrugboerderij is a common type of old farm houses with chimney in Giethoorn. The canals are built to transport peat and the farmers lived in these neatly arranged houses since 16th century. It was really a serene place and what you could hear was only the quacking of a ducks and whispers of wind.

该村历史上建在泥炭地上。它被工人切成了许多块,诸多小岛就是如此形成。图中名为bultrugboerderij 是羊角村常见的带有烟囱的旧农舍。运河也是为了运输泥炭而建造的,自 16 世纪以来,农民就住在这些坐落有秩房子里。这里真是一个宁静的地方,耳畔中唯有阵阵鸭鸣和风之细语。

Giethoorn is not large but it’s recommended to visit it in a slow pace so that you can observe every its detail with your eyes. At noon, I enjoyed to take some time sitting at waterside under willows. Slight raindrops soaked my sleeves and a gust of not-so-cold wind stirred the willow twigs and blew my face at the same time. I kept my eyes on the every plants and animal. Lovely wild ducks filed in a row at the river bank and looked for food. It was really a natural environment to combine human beings and nature perfectly. You will easily be assimilated into it.

羊角村规模不大值得游客慢慢游览,细细品味,用自己的眼睛洞察它的每一个细节。晌午时分,我悠然在柳树下的水边闲坐。岸边柳林处,沾衣欲湿杏花雨,吹面不寒杨柳风。我注视着周围的一草一木。可爱的野鸭在河岸边排成一排觅食。这真是一个人与自然完美结合浑然天成的环境。你会不由自主地融入其中。

The major color style of this fairytale village must be green as there are so many luxuriantly green vegetation all around the village. However it’s not so monotonous since the greenery is always interspersed with some colorful flowers. Giethoorn is famous for hydrangeas or Hortensia. This kind of gorgeous purple and pink flowers bloom in the summer until the end of September. The life here is as beautiful like summer flowers.

这个童话般的村庄的主色调一定是绿色。村子上下遍布茂盛的绿色植被然而它并不显得单调突兀。这些绿色植物从中总是点缀着一些五颜六色的花朵。羊角村以这种彩色绣球花而闻名。这种艳丽的紫色和粉红色的花朵在夏天烂漫盛开直到到九月底,这里的生活就如同夏花般灿烂。

Occasionally I found this is the flag of the village. As the its name Giethoorn states, it has a goat horn on the flag. Giethoorn’s name originates from the first inhabitants’ discovery of hundreds of goat horns (gietehorens) in the marshland in the 10th century.

我无意间窥见羊角村的旗帜。正如它的名字所言,它的旗帜上有一个山羊角。羊角村的名字源于10世纪,第一批居民在沼泽地发现了数百个山羊角(gietehorens)。

I continued to walk forward until I arrived at this area, it was the end of the village. Of course, you could continue to move but the landscape is not as beautiful as the center area of the village. Here is a campsite where visitors could rent camping pods for two people or a wooden log cabin for family. Although the village is extremely small, it still provides enough facilities to spend a nice holiday.

当我继续乘兴前行,直到到这片区域,便要路尽河回人转舵。当然游客还可继续向前探索,但彼岸的风景却远不如羊角村宛然动人。这是一个露营地,游客可以租用两个人的露营舱或家庭用的木制小木屋。村子虽小,但仍能向游客提供足够的设施度过一个愉快的假期。

I took around 3 hours to finish the visit of the whole village of flowers and trees. Every corner of this village was worth of taking photo. In the early autumn, the flourishing flowers brought special charm to the village. A blow of cool wind flew through flowers with dewdrops and several petals dropped down and floated on the flat surface of flowing water. It was undoubtfully a romantic place but it was only pity that the weather is not so good. All the photos taken appear to be too somber. So before you come it is necessary to check the weather forecast. I believe that rowing in Giethoorn on a sunny day will provide an unforgettable experience to travelers definitely.

我总计用时大约 3 个小时倘徉在这个鲜花与绿树的世界里而不能自拔。这里的每个角落都值得拍照留念。 初秋时节,繁花似锦,给羊角村带来了别样的韵味。微风拂过,花自飘零水自流。这无疑是一个无比浪漫的地方,但可惜天公不作美,所有拍摄的照片都显得过于阴沉。因此在游览此处之前,有必要查看当地的天气预报。我相信阳光明媚的日子里在羊角村荡舟一定会给旅行者带来一生难忘的体验。

Trip in Den Haag, the royal capital of the Netherlands

荷兰帝都海牙之旅

Den Haag is a city on the west coast of Netherlands bordering the North Sea. It’s well known for the International Court of Justice of the United Nations. The city’s name originates from the name ‘des Graven hage’ in the 15th century which means “The Count’s Wood”. When you travel in Netherlands, you could take one day to look at it. The city is not large and its public transportation is very convenient. Most people know that Amsterdam is the capital of Netherlands but they may not know that Den Haag is the royal capital and the seat of government.

海牙是荷兰西海岸与北海接壤的一座城市。 它以联合国的海牙国际法庭而闻名。 这座城市的名字来源于 15 世纪的名字“des Graven hage”,意思是“伯爵的森林”。 当你在荷兰旅行时可以花一天时间了解一下它的历史。这座城市不大,公共交通十分便利。相信大多数人都知道阿姆斯特丹是荷兰的首都,但可能不知道海牙却是皇家的首都和政府所在地。

I took the RandstadRail tram from Rotterdam to Den Haag central station in the sunny morning of September 7th 2020. It’s an historical city perfectly combined with modernity and history. The train station is in the city center, just a stone’s throw away from the area of government office. This area has an old history. Faraway at this side of road I could see some pedestrians walking slowly across the ancient arches. Occasionally, at the street corner, some trolley cars passed by me with a soft silvery tinkling. Here I could really feel a tinge of the old past.

2020 年 9 月 7 日阳光明媚的清晨,我从鹿特丹乘坐 RandstadRail 地铁前往海牙中央车站。这是一座完美结合现代与历史的古老名城。火车站就位于市中心,距政府办公区仅一步之遥。 这个地区有着悠久的历史。 路这边远远地遥望行人缓步穿过古老的拱门。 不经意间的转角,有轨电车与我擦身而过,发出柔和清脆的叮当声。 此刻一种莫名的历史沧桑感油然而生。

Statue King Willem II

When I travelled in European city, I always paid attention to every statue erected in public square. The figures that could not speak represented the history of the city or the country perfectly. The bronze equestrian statue of King William II at the square Buitenhof is a replica of the equestrian statue of King William II by the French sculptors Antonin Mercié and Victor Peter, which was erected in Place Guillaume II in Luxembourg in 1884. During the reign of King William II, the Netherlands became a parliamentary democracy with the new constitution of 1848. Behind the statue, it is the lake called Hofvijver. The houses around the square were the lovely traditional Belgium triangle houses.

行在欧洲之时,我总是着眼于广场上竖立的每一尊雕像。这些不会说话的塑像完美诠释了每一个城市或国家的历史。 Buitenhof广场上的这座威廉二世国王的骑马铜像是1884年在卢森堡纪尧姆二世广场上竖立的雕像复制品。法国雕塑家安东宁默西和维克多彼得设计的该雕塑。在威廉二世的统治期间荷兰在1848 年的新宪法下成为议会民主制国家。雕像后面是名为霍夫维耶弗的湖。广场周围环绕的民居是传统的比利时三角房子。

Hofvijver 

The most representative and inviting view of this city is the lake Hofvijver. In the middle of the lake, there is a small island with plants and trees. These ancient buildings with numerous small chimneys at the waterside are the government complex of Dutch republic since 1584. The city of Den Haag has a history of more than 700 years. Opposite to the lake, there is a piece of green land with long benches. Travelers could take a short rest under umbrage and look at the historical buildings in the surrounding. They kept the original appearance in medieval times.

这座城市最具代表性和吸引力的景观是霍夫维耶弗湖。 在湖的中央,有一个小岛,上面种满了植物和树木。 这些矗立在水边有众多小烟囱的古老建筑是自 1584 年以来荷兰共和国的政府建筑群。海牙这座城市足足已有 700 多年的历史。湖对面是一片绿地,布置着长凳。 游客可以在树影婆娑中稍作休息,环视周围保留了中世纪的原始外貌的历史建筑。

Mauritshuis

Another historic building in the lakeside is the art museum, Maurituis. The museum houses the Royal Cabinet of Paintings which consists of 854 objects, mostly Dutch Golden Age paintings. It was the residence of count John Maurice, the governor of Dutch Brazil, and the Prince of Nassau-Siegen in the 17th century.

湖边的另一座历史建筑是莫里斯艺术博物馆。该博物馆收藏了包括 854 件物品的皇家珍品内藏,其中主要是荷兰黄金时代的绘画。它曾经是 17 世纪荷属巴西总督以及拿骚-锡根亲王约翰·莫里斯伯爵的住所。

Girl with a Pearl Earring 

The most famous oil painting of this museum is the ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’. It was created by the Dutch Golden Age painter Johannes Vermeer in 1665. It depicts a European girl wearing an exotic dress, an oriental turban, and a very large pearl as an earring. This painting is as famous as the ‘Mona Lisa’ since both young girls in each painting have an enigmatic smile on their beautiful faces. Vermeer has a wonderful mastery of light effect and he used chiaroscuro rather than line to create form. The reflection on her lips and on the earring show the effect of light on different surfaces. This painting is no doubt the centerpiece of the museum. Even faraway from the museum, the banner of this painting could be seen clearly.

这座博物馆中最著名的油画是《戴珍珠耳环的女孩》。 它由荷兰黄金时代的画家约翰内斯·维米尔(Johannes Vermeer)于 1665 年创作。它描绘了一个身着异国情调的连衣裙,头戴东方头巾,以及一颗巨大珍珠作为耳环的欧洲女孩。这幅画与《蒙娜丽莎》一样著名。这两幅画中的年轻女孩美丽的脸上都挂着一丝神秘的微笑。维米尔对光线效果有着出色的掌控,他使用明暗对比而不是线条来塑造外形。女孩的嘴唇和耳环上的反射展示了光线在不同表面上的效果。这幅画无疑是博物馆的镇馆之宝。即使在远处,也能清晰看到这幅画的宣传横幅。

Binnenhof

Alongside the Mauritshuis, there is an ancient path of bricks leading towards the quiet inner courtyard of Binnenhof. The Binnenhof is a series of government complex. It houses the meeting place of both houses of the States General of the Netherlands and the Ministry of General Affairs. The houses look like the medieval gothic castles. They were built in 13th century and were the oldest Parliament buildings in the world. Even nowadays they are still in use and the North Wing is still the meeting place of the Upper House. The coat arm of Dutch Republic and the House of Nassau is a blue checkered shield with a lion grasping a sword in one hand and a bundle of arrows in the other. This kind of lion could be observed frequently in the Dutch royal building, for example on the lintel of the arch.

在莫里斯艺术博物馆旁边,有一条铺满红砖的古老道路通往安静的内院。Binnenhof 内院是一系列政府建筑。它是荷兰国家议会和参众两院的议会场所。这些看起来像中世纪的哥特式城堡的建筑建于 13 世纪,是世界上最古老的议会建筑。 时至今日,它们仍在正常使用,建筑群的北翼仍是上议院的议会场所。荷兰共和国和拿骚家族的徽章是一个蓝色的格子底以及一只狮子一手握着剑,另一只手握着一束箭。这种造型的狮子经常出现在荷兰皇家建筑中,例如本照片中拱门的门楣上。

Ridderzaal

This area has been the center of Dutch politics for many centuries. The cathedral like building in the inner court yard is called Ridderzaal or Hall of Knights. It was completed in 1280 and used for festival occasions in the history. Only in the 20th century, the Hall of Knights was repaired and became the main venue used for the congress and important meetings. The interior is decorated delicately with nineteen wall hangings bearing the arms of the twelve Dutch provinces and the overseas parts of the Kingdom. The Dutch parliamentary democracy consists of three parts: execution, legislation, and jurisdiction. For legislation, the Dutch parliament is made up of two chambers: the 150-seat, directly-elected lower house (House of Representatives) and the 75-seat upper house (Senate). Both houses traditionally meet in the hall of Ridderzaal on the third Tuesday of September.

几个世纪以来这片区域一直是荷兰政治的中心。 这座内院里的大教堂式建筑被称为 Ridderzaal 或骑士厅。 它于1280年完工,历史上曾用于庆祝节日。 直到20世纪,骑士厅经过修复,成为两院会议以及一些重要会议的场所。 它的内部装饰精美,共有十九个壁挂,上面挂着荷兰十二个省和海外地区的徽章。荷兰的议会民主由三部分组成:行政、立法和司法。 在立法方面,荷兰议会由两院组成:150 个席位的下议院(众议院)和 75 个席位的上议院(参议院)。两院传统上每年 9 月的第三个星期二在这里的大厅举行会议。

At the moment I was standing on the brick paved ground. Behind me, it’s the north wing of the government parliament. It has a beautiful arcade of renaissance style. There is small gate called Stadhouderspoort leading to the outside. It was a beautiful sunny morning in autumn and some Dutch people took bicycles and passed through the gate cozily. In the history, the gate was only available for the chief magistrate (stadholder) and after 1795 it was allowed to be used by everyone.

此刻我正站在内庭砖砌的地面上。在我身后,是政府议会的北翼。 它有个美丽的文艺复兴风格的拱廊。一个名为Stadhouderspoort的小门通向外侧。这是一个阳光明媚的美好秋日早晨,一些荷兰人骑着自行车悠然穿过这座拱门。 历史上,这座城门只供城市的管理者(stadholder)使用,只是1795年后才允许所有民众使用。

Noordeinde Palace

The political system of the Netherlands is a constitutional monarchy, similar to Great Britain. King acts as the head of state. Noordeinde Palace is one of the three official palaces of the Dutch royal family. It was used as the official workplace of King Willem-Alexander since 2013. The palace originated as a medieval farmhouse, which was converted into a spacious residence in 1533. This neoclassical palace looks modest and simple, hiding among the residential houses and shops. After the restoration in 1984, the Palace became the Dutch Monarch’s workplace and office. When I arrived, the flag at the back of the house was raised. It means that the King was working in the office that day.

荷兰的政治制度是类似于英国的君主立宪制。国王担任国家元首。 Noordeinde Palace是荷兰王室的三个官方宫殿之一。 从2013 年起,威廉-亚历山大国王就用它作为的官方办公场所。这座宫殿起源于中世纪的农舍,1533 年被改建为宽敞的住宅。这座新古典主义的宫殿看起来质朴简单,有种大隐隐于市的味道。 1984年修复后,它成为荷兰君主的工作场所和办公室。当我抵达时,房子后面的旗帜已然升起说明国王这天在办公室里勤政为民。

In front of the palace it is the bronze statue of William I of Orange. This statue was erected in 1845 and designed by a French sculptor. William the prince of Orange was the founder of the House of Orange-Nassau. He played a critical role in the independence of the Netherlands. He organized the Dutch revolt against Spanish rule during the Eighty Years’ War and was assassinated for many times due to this reason. Several members of the Orange-Nassau house reigned the Netherlands Republic as governor or stadholder. After 1815, the Netherlands Republic became a monarchy under the House of Orange-Nassau.

宫殿前是奥朗日威廉一世的铜像。这座雕像由一位法国雕塑家设计建于 1845 年。奥朗日王子威廉是奥朗日-拿骚家族的创始人。他在荷兰的国家独立中发挥了关键作用。在八十年战争期间他曾组织了多次荷兰人反抗西班牙统治的起义,并因此多次被暗杀。奥朗日-拿骚家族的几位成员后来以总督的身份统治着荷兰共和国。1815年后,荷兰共和国成为奥朗日-拿骚家族下的君主制国家。

The Peace Palace

The iconic building in Den Haag is the Peace Palace. It houses the International Court of Justice which is the principal judicial body of the United Nations. In 1903, the American steel magnate Andrew Carnegie donated US$1.5 million to build it. Laterally, an eternal peace flame was installed in front of its gates to reminder people the importance of peace. During the 19th century, the idea of peace flourished in the world. The “First Peace Conference” was hold in Den Haag to call for global disarmament, international jurisdiction and arbitration through the establishment of the Permanent Court of Arbitration and International Court of Justice. The Peace palace was built to house these organizations under the environment. Although it is an UN building, you could still book a tour online to visit the inside.

海牙的标志性建筑当属和平宫。它是联合国的主要司法机构国家法庭的所在地。1903年,美国钢铁大王安德鲁·卡奈基捐资150万美元建造了这座建筑。后来它的大门前安置了永恒的和平火焰,以提醒人们和平的重要性。19世纪,和平理念在世界范围内盛行。 “第一次和平会议”即由此在海牙召开,呼吁通过设立仲裁法院和国际法院,实现全球化裁军、国际管辖和仲裁。 和平宫就是在这种国际环境下建造而成。虽然它是联合国大楼,但仍然可以在线预订游览并参观内部。

Nieuwe Kerk 

In the city center of Den Haag, I could still find some historical buildings although most of items are so modern. The New church is a Dutch Baroque Protestant church built in 1649 after the Great Church was too small to hold so many devotees. The church has an abundance of wood carvings from the 17th century, an oak roof construction and stained glass windows. Maybe because of Protestant belief, the outlook of this church is not like the traditional church, it has a weird hexagon shape instead.

在海牙市中心,尽管如今举目都是现代元素但仍然可以看到一些历史建筑。这座新教堂是一座荷兰巴洛克式新教教堂,建于 1649 年。当时的主教堂太小,无法容纳这么多信徒故此诞生了这座教堂。 教堂装饰有大量的 17 世纪木雕、橡木屋顶和彩色玻璃窗。也许是因为新教的缘故,这座教堂的外观并不像传统的教堂,而是奇怪的六边形。

The grave of Baruch Spinoza

From 1588 to 1672, it was a great period for Netherlands called The Dutch Golden Age. During this period, Dutch trade, science, and art were among the most acclaimed in Europe. The most important Dutch philosopher at that time must be Spinoza. In his book Ethics, Spinoza discusses his beliefs of three kinds of knowledge, the knowledge of experiences, the knowledge involves reasoning plus emotions, and the knowledge of God. His philosophy system is called Spinozism. If I didn’t come here, I would not know that such a great person was buried in this church. The Greek letters on his grave are ‘Terra hic Benedicti de Spinoza in Ecclesia Nova olim sepulti ossa tegit’ which means ‘The earth here covers the bones of Benedictus de Spinoza once buried in the New Church.’

1588 年到 1672 年间,这是属于荷兰的一个伟大时期,被称为荷兰黄金时代。 在这期间,荷兰的贸易、科学和艺术在欧洲广受赞誉的。当时最重要的荷兰哲学家一定是斯宾诺莎。斯宾诺莎在他的《伦理学》一书中讨论了他对三种知识的信仰,即经验知识、涉及推理和情感的知识以及对上帝的认识。他的哲学体系被称为斯宾诺莎主义。如果我不是恰巧路过这里,也就不会知晓这位伟大的哲学家就埋葬在这个教堂里。 他坟墓上的希腊字母是“Terra hic Benedicti de Spinoza in Ecclesia Nova olim sepulti ossa tegit”,意思是“这片土地覆盖了曾经埋葬在新教堂的斯宾诺莎的骸骨。”

Grote of Sint-Jacobskerk

The oldest building in Den Haag must be the Great church built in 13th century. Most of its structure are made of brick. It has a symbolic six-sided high tower up to 93 meter. On the top of the tower, the big bells’ history could be traced back to 17th century. Nowadays this church is not used for religious activities, except for royal baptisms and weddings. Members of the House of Orange-Nassau like King Willem-Alexander and his daughter Princess Catharina-Amalia have been baptized there. It was three o’clock in the afternoon at the moment of my arrival. I still remember that I passed by the church and looked up the brown tower against the blue sky in the autumn. Den Haag is not a city famous of tourism but it will still leave something in my memory.

海牙最古老的建筑当属建于13世纪的大教堂。它的大部分结构都是用砖砌成的并且有一个高达93米的标志性六边形高塔。塔顶大钟的历史可以追溯到17世纪。如今这座教堂除了皇家洗礼和婚礼外,不再用于宗教活动。奥朗日-拿骚家族的成员,如威廉-亚历山大国王和他的女儿凯瑟琳娜-阿玛莉亚公主,都曾在此受洗。时至今日仍然会回味那个秋天的下午三点,我恰好经过大教堂,仰望着蓝天映衬着棕色的塔楼。海牙不是一个以旅游业闻名的城市,但它仍然会在我的记忆中依稀留下一些掠影。

Old City Hall

The city hall today used today is a very modern building which is a bit boring however it’s recommended to visit the Old City Hall which is a Renaissance style building near the Great Church. It is the former seat of the city’s government, and still keeps a place where residents hold wedding ceremonies, and where the Royal family register their family births. On the façade, there is letter ANNO 1565 which means the city hall was built in 1565. The 5 statues on the roof top depict “Faith”, “Hope”, “Love”, “Strength”, and “Justice”. They were made by the Hague sculptor Jan Baptist Xavery before 1742.

如今使用的海牙市政厅是一座非常现代的建筑略显沉闷所以特别建议到大教堂附近的这座文艺复兴风格老市政厅参观。这里曾是市政府所在地,至今仍保留着居民举行婚礼和皇室登记出生的功能。它的正面有ANNO 1565字样,意思是市政厅建于1565年。屋顶上的5尊雕像分别代表了“信仰”、“希望”、“爱”、“力量”和“正义”。 它们由海牙雕塑家 Jan Baptist Xavery 在 1742 年之前陆续制作。

The city center of Den Haag is just a small area for travel. In the afternoon, I wandered around the outskirt of the city. Netherlands has perfect city plans. There are so many public parks and open spaces in the suburb. The life here is more comfortable compared to other crowded metropolis in the world. As we know, New York has a large central park but it only serves better the rich people living around it. The urban design in Netherlands is much better since everyone could easily visit the park which is near their houses and relax themselves fully on the weekend.

海牙市中心只是一个适合旅行的小快区域。下午我乘兴在城郊闲游。荷兰有完美的城市规划。海牙郊区有众多公园和开放空间。与世界上其他拥挤的大都市相比,这里的生活更加舒适令人向往。众所周知,纽约市中心有一个大型的中央公园,但它只是为周围的富人提供更好的服务。荷兰的城市设计则更加完善,每个人都可以轻松地游览自己居所附近的公园并在周末充分放松自己。

Clingendael

Clingendael park is one of the most beautiful park located between The Hague and Wassenaar. Since the sixteenth century, various garden and landscape architects have contributed towards its look and atmosphere. In the 19th century the garden architect Zocher replaced the garden’s original French design by the English landscape style. ‘Clingendael’ is the name of the 17th-century manor house in this picture. It means valley in the dunes. Nowadays the manor houses the Clingendael Institute.

Clingendael 公园是位于海牙和瓦塞纳尔之间的美丽的公园。 自十六世纪以来,各种花园和景观设计师为其景观加砖添瓦。19世纪期间,园林建筑师佐赫以英式景观风格取代了花园原有的法式设计。 “Clingendael”是这张照片中 17 世纪庄园的名称,意为沙丘中的山谷。 如今,庄园内设有 Clingendael 研究所。

This park is extremely spacious. Behind the manor, there is a large playground and field where children play and families enjoy picnics. Large pieces of meadows allow the lambs browsing on grass freely and leisurely. The world in Netherlands is placid and peaceful. I can always discover some wild animals living together with human beings harmoniously.

这个公园非常宽敞。庄园后面有一个大型游乐场和田野,供孩子们玩耍和家庭野餐。小羊们在大片的草地上悠闲自在地觅食,小日子悠哉悠哉。荷兰的生活总体平静祥和,这里总能发现一些与人类和谐相处的野生动物。

This is one street view of Den Haag. There are not so many tourist attractions in this city so I have plenty of time to observe how the local people live. Like other cities in Netherlands, bicycle is one important transportation for them. Also, Dutch people are friendly and can speak English very well. In deed, English is widely used in this country. For tourists, they will not feel difficult when they come here. Although there is nothing special in this city, I think it is still recommended to visit it in a relaxing manner and enjoy one common leisure day in the midst of your rushed trip.

这是海牙一处街景。这个城市并没有那么多旅游景点,所以我有足够的时间来观察当地人的生活。与荷兰其他城市一样,自行车是他们的重要交通工具。 此外,荷兰人也很友好,英语极其流利。英语在这个国家真的是被广泛使用。对于游客来说,来到这里旅游自然不会觉得困难。虽然这座城市并没有什么特别之处,但我认为还是建议在匆忙的旅途中抽空悠闲地游览一番,享受平凡一天的休闲时光。

Rotterdam’s modernism from past to present

鹿特丹现代主义的昨日今昔

Rotterdam is an important harbor connecting to North Sea. Unfortunately, it was completely destroyed in the World War II and rebuilt totally based on a modernist urban plan after the war. For tourists, if you want to explore the landscape of medieval city, it would not be your best choice definitely. It’s true that Rotterdam’s urban landscape is totally different from other cities in the Netherlands. However, in this city you could discover how it revived from the damages of the war tenaciously and how the architects modernists reinvented this city in the past 70 years.

鹿特丹是连接北海的重要港口。 遗憾的是它在二战中被彻底摧毁,战后按照现代城市规划进行了彻底重建。 对于游客而言,如果你想探索中世纪城市的风景,这里绝对不是你的最佳选择。鹿特丹的城市景观诚然与荷兰其他城市大相径庭。 然而在这座城市,你会体会到它是如何顽强地从战争的破坏中缓步恢复并且目睹现代主义建筑师是如何在过去 70 年里重塑这座城市。

I visited Rotterdam in September 2020 after my trip of windmills in Kinderdijk. This is my first view of the city from the south bank of Nieuwe Maas which is a distributary of the Rhine River, and a former distributary of the Maas River. Rotterdam has the nicknames ‘Gateway to Europe’ because the river Nieuwe Maas connects the North Sea and the heart of Western Europe (like the highly industrialized area Ruhr) directly. Most of the buildings at the riverside are closed aligned skyscrapers. Rotterdam is famous for the excellent urban design and plan. In 2015, it was crowned the best urbanized city in Europe.

在小孩堤防的风车之旅之后,我于 2020 年 9 月游览了鹿特丹。 这是我从新马斯河南岸对这座城市第一眼印象。这里是莱茵河的支流,也是马斯河的一个分流。这条新马斯直接连接北海和西欧的心脏比如高度工业化的鲁尔区故此鹿特丹有“通往欧洲的门户”的绰号。河边的大部分建筑都是紧密排列的摩天大楼。鹿特丹以卓越的城市设计和规划而闻名,2015 年被评为欧洲最佳市政规划城市。

Erasmusbrug 

The icon of city landscape is of course the Erasmus bridge stretching over the river. It is named by the city’s famous scholar Desiderius Erasmus and has a nickname ‘the swan’ due to its elegant shape. The bridge was designed by the Dutch architect Ben van Berkel and completed in 1996. It is a masterpiece of the urban modernism. The most awe-inspiring element is the span of the bridge, totally 802 meters.

鹿特丹的标志景观当属横跨新马斯河的伊拉斯谟大桥。 它由当地著名学者德西德里乌斯·伊拉斯谟(Desiderius Erasmus)命名,因其优雅的造型而有“天鹅”的绰号。 这座桥由荷兰建筑师本·范伯克尔设计,于1996年竣工,是城市现代主义建筑的杰作。 最令人惊叹的是这座桥的跨度,全长802米。

It is a combined cable-stayed and bascule bridge. I walked from the southside of the river to the northside through the bridge enthusiastically. Under my feet, it is the busy water way for thousands of boats passing everyday. It has two platforms for pedestrians to have a rest and overlook the city. I took this picture under the bridge’s blue pylon which is extremely high, up to 139 meters. This single pylon is positioned on southside of the river with a backward lean and supported by 16 pairs of front stay cables and 2 sets of back stay cables.

它是一座斜拉式开合桥。我兴致勃勃地从河的南岸穿过大桥走到北岸。我的脚下便是过尽千帆的繁忙水道。大桥上有两个平台供行人休息和俯瞰整个城市。这张照片是在蓝色桥塔下拍摄的,桥塔很高,高达139米。这座唯一的桥塔位于河的南侧,并向后倾斜,由16对前拉索和2组后拉索支撑。

Maritime District

In the north of the Erasmus bridge, it is the Maritime District of the city. Here the tourists could experience why Rotterdam was the most important harbor in the world. Dutch Republic used to be a maritime superpower in the 16th and 17th century. The Maritime museum that records the origin of Dutch navigation is also located in this district. This ancient brigantine harbored in the Leuvenhaven which is the commercial port nowadays represents the glorious history of this maritime empire who ruled South America (modern Guiana and Brazil), south Africa, west Africa (modern Ghana), and North America (New York) in the 17th century.

在伊拉斯谟大桥的北岸便是是鹿特丹的海事区。 在这里,游客可以感受到鹿特丹缘何是世界上最重要的港口。荷兰共和国曾经是 16 世纪和 17 世纪的海上超级大国。记录荷兰航海渊源的海事博物馆也位于该区。这艘古老的双桅船停泊在如今的鲁汶港展览,它代表着这个17世纪统治南美(圭亚那和巴西)、南非、西非(加纳)和北美洲(纽约)的海上帝国的辉煌历史。

There are numerous boats, cargo ships, and gantry cranes at the pier. You could even get a Water taxi service like taking a bus normally. Overseas trade was always a traditional cornerstone of the Dutch economy. Rotterdam acted as a key role of connecting Netherlands with other parts of the world. From 1962 until 2004, it was the world’s busiest port by annual cargo tonnage. The port stretches over a distance of more than 40 kilometers so when you stood at the pier at the Maritime District and stared at the far west end, you could catch the view of hustle and bustle of those dockworkers under the glow of the setting sun.

这个码头内有众多小船、货船和龙门起重机。游客甚至可以像正常乘坐公共汽车一样获得水上出租车服务。海外贸易一直是荷兰经济的基石。 鹿特丹在连接荷兰与世界其他地区方面发挥了关键作用。从 1962 年到 2004 年,按年货物吨位吞吐计算,它是世界上最繁忙的港口。 整个港口绵延40多公里,站在海事区的码头,向西遥望着远处天边的尽头,夕阳余晖下码头工人络绎不绝。

In Netherlands, when you are free, you could always take your time to stroll along the river banks. The cities and villages in this countries are intersected by numerous canals and rivers. The Maritime District is also a piece of land divided by some artificial water ways. The new port and old port are connected with each other by the water ways. There are different types of boats wandering on the occupied river, barges, dinghies, and fishing boats assembling on this narrow water way. For Rotterdam, the life on water is so busy as well!

在荷兰,空闲之余亦可在河边悠然漫步。这个国家的城市和村庄由许多河道和河流交错相连。海事区也是一块被人工水道分割的土地。新港与旧港之间有水路相通。熙熙攘攘的河流上游荡着各式各样的船只,各种驳船、小艇和渔船皆聚集在这条狭窄的水道上。对鹿特丹居民来说,水上生活也是如此忙碌!

Oude Haven

Although most of the old buildings are destroyed during the war, you could still find traces of past in the Oude Haven, i.e. old port. Many historic ships with stained and spotted hulls were narrating the origin of the city silently. The old port is the place where history and modernity fully unite. The building white glazed bricks at the background is the ‘White House’ built between 1897 and 1898 in the Art Nouveau style. At that time, it was the tallest building in the Netherlands. Also it was the only building remaining in the Oude Haven after the bombardment of German air force. In comparison with the surrounding uniform modernity, it is indeed a unique existence.

尽管大部分老建筑在战争中被毁,但在老港口游客仍然可以追寻昔日的似水年华。许多船体斑驳历史悠久的船只都在默默讲述这座城市的古老历史。老港口也是历史与现代充分融合的地方。背景里这座白色琉璃砖的建筑是建于1897年至1898年间的新艺术风格的鹿特丹白宫。 当时它是荷兰最高的建筑。 它也是老港口德国空军轰炸后唯一剩下的建筑物。与周围一致的现代风格对比,它确实是那独一无二的存在。

The old port is a popular place for locals to meet and have a fun night life. There are so many bars and restaurants here with which the tourists will feel difficult to choose. I was sitting at the terrace of one of the restaurants at the waterside and enjoyed the panoramic view of the port. The ripples under the sunsets and the reflected shadows were so appealing.

旧港口是当地人聚会和享受美好夜生活的绝佳场所。这里遍地酒吧餐馆,游客自然会很难抉择。我此刻坐在水边一家餐厅的露台上,欣赏着港口的全景。 夕阳下的涟漪,倒映的疏影,是如此动人令人回味。

Regentessebrug

Another building surviving in the second world war is this bridge called Regentesse. When you traverse the waterways in the Maritime District, you will notice this bridge which architecture style is obviously different with the surroundings. This bridge made of Granite, cast iron, and sandstone was built in 1898. At that time, Art Nouveau was booming and the architecture style would approach modernism gradually however it still kept some decorative elements of the past. For example, you could easily find the sculpture of a small dolphin on each pillar of the bridge. In addition, the candlesticks invested with copper and the four bronze lions impressed me as well. When I walked on the bridge and touched the historical balustrade, I felt that It was really a miracle that it could withstand the damage of bombs and live until today.

在第二次世界大战中幸存下来的另一座建筑是这座名为 Regentesse 的桥。 当你横穿海事区的水路时,你会注意到这座建筑风格与周围截然不同的桥。这座由花岗岩、铸铁和砂岩制成的桥建于1898年。当时新艺术运动蓬勃发展,建筑风格也逐渐过渡到现代主义,但仍保留了一些历史上的装饰元素。例如你可以一眼发现在桥底的每根柱子上都有一只小海豚的雕塑。另外镀铜的烛台和四只青铜狮子也给我留下了深刻的印象。 桥上凭栏而触,我不由得感叹这座桥能经受住炸弹的破坏坚挺到今日着实是一个奇迹。

Kubuswoningen

Rotterdam’s modernism in architecture could be well reflected by some ‘bizarre’ and creative designs in the city center. When you pass by them occasionally, you will utter an ‘omg’ exclamation definitely. The yellow Cube Houses in the photo are one of the city’s most iconic attractions that impress the tourists all around the world. These cubes designed by architect Piet Blom are tilted 54.7 degrees and are optimized to create the available space. The design represents a village within a city, where each house represents a tree, and all the houses together, a forest. They are still the private houses. If you are really curious of its interior, you may explore the Show Cube Museum.

鹿特丹市中心的一些“奇异古怪”和创造性的建筑设计最能彰显它的现代主义。 当你无意间邂逅它们之时,一定会不由地发出“omg”的感叹。照片中的黄色立方体房屋就是是这座城市最具标志性的景点之一,也给世界各地的游客留下了深刻的印象。 这些由建筑师 Piet Blom 设计的立方体倾斜 54.7 度,并经过优化以创造更多的可用空间。 这种设计代表了城市中的一个村庄,每个房子都象征一棵树,所有的立方体房子汇聚起来就代表了一片森林。它们仍是私人住宅,如果真的对它的内部结构感到好奇,您你可以参观展示立方体的博物馆。

Markthal

Another striking building to be mentioned must be the Markthal or market hall. Look at its ostentatious appearance! It has a shiny steel façade covered with glass that makes it look like a huge mirror. The shape is designed like a tennis racket. You could hardly imagine that this huge building which size is 40 m high, 70 m wide and 120 m long is just a indoor market. It is similar to the San Miguel Market in Madrid but it is really too large with more than 100 stalls selling from fresh bread to delicious cheese, fish, vegetable and poultry and even flowers and plants. Tourists could taste the local foods here and experience the exciting local life.

另一位闪亮登场的建筑当属Markthal 市场大厅。 就看看它那张扬浮夸的外表! 它有一个闪亮的钢制立面,上面覆盖着玻璃,使它看起来像一面巨大的平面镜。它的总体形状设计得像网球拍。你很难想象这座高40米、宽70米、长120米的巨大建筑只是一个室内市场。它类似于马德里的圣米格尔市场,但它确实太庞大了,里面共计有 100 多个摊位,从新鲜面包到美味的奶酪、鱼、蔬菜和家禽,甚至花卉和植物,应有尽有。 游客可以在这里品尝当地美食,体验当地精彩纷呈的生活。

The vaulted interior is covered by a large mural painting, consisting of many small glass mosaics. Its theme is cornucopia which represents a symbol of plenty consisting of a goat’s horn overflowing with flowers, fruit, and corn in the Greek mythology. This modern art work is designed by artists Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam. It shows colorful images of so many foods and fruits alongside flowers and insects. The enlarged images are composed by Pixar software and printed onto perforated aluminum panels.

市场的拱形内部覆盖着一幅巨型壁画,它由许多玻璃小马赛克组成。它的主题就是希腊神话中代表着丰盛象征的开满了鲜花、水果和玉米的山羊的角。这件现代艺术作品由艺术家 Arno Coenen 和 Iris Roskam 设计。它展示了许多色彩缤纷的食物和水果以及鲜花和昆虫的图像。这些放大的图像由 Pixar 软件合成并打印在穿孔铝板上。

Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk 

Although Rotterdam is a modernized city, there are still a few historic buildings in the city center. The Grote of Sint-Laurenskerk is a Protestant church built between 1449 and 1525. It is the only remnant of the medieval city of Rotterdam. It’s close to the market hall, its high tower is easy to be identified. This church is a special symbol of Rotterdam’s history. In the Middle Ages, citizenship of Rotterdam could be purchased by contributing 3000 stones to the construction of the church tower. It also represents the resilience of Rotterdam’s people who rebuilt this city from the rubbles of the second World War.

鹿特丹虽是一座现代化城市,但市中心仍保留有几座历史建筑。 圣劳伦斯克就是一座建于 1449 年至 1525 年之间的新教教堂。它是鹿特丹唯一的中世纪城市遗迹。它靠近市场大厅,代表性的高塔很容易识别。 这座教堂在鹿特丹历史也具有特殊意义。中世纪的居民可以通过捐赠3000块石头建造教堂塔楼来获得鹿特丹的公民身份。同时它也象征了鹿特丹人民从第二次世界大战的废墟中重建这座城市坚强不屈的精神。

Behind the church it is a small square full of dense greenery. Dutch urban plan is really fantastic. Although it’s a populated country with limited land space, I could always find some lawns and trees in every corner of the city. It was a warm afternoon. Many people walked leisurely around this area.

教堂后面是一个小广场,满是茂密的绿色植物。 荷兰的城市规划真是令人赞不绝口。 虽然这是一个人口稠密的国家,土地空间有限,但我总能在城市的每个角落发现一些草坪和树木。 那是一个温暖的下午。 许多人这一带信步闲庭。

In this square I found this bronze statue dedicated to Desiderius Erasmus, the Dutch philosopher who is considered one of the greatest scholars of the northern Renaissance. He lived in the time of European religious Reformation in 16th century and promoted syncretism, involving the merging or assimilation of several originally discrete traditions, especially in the theology and mythology of religion. His most notable work is ‘In Praise of Folly’ which attack on superstitions and on the Western Church satirically. This statue was designed by the Dutch sculptor Hendrick de Keyser in 17th century.

这个广场上还树立了这座纪念德西德里乌斯·伊拉斯谟的青铜雕像。这位荷兰哲学家被认为是北方文艺复兴时期最伟大的学者。 他生活在 16 世纪欧洲宗教改革时期,提倡融合或同化几个原本离散的宗教神学传统的融合主义。 他最著名的作品是“愚人颂”,讽刺地抨击了封建迷信和西方教会。这座雕像由荷兰雕塑家 Hendrick de Keyser 于 17 世纪设计。

Stadhuis Rotterdam

In the city center, another old building surviving the second world war is the city hall of Rotterdam. It was built between 1914 and 1940 as per Queen Wilhelmina’s request. It has a symmetrical design like a French palace and is designed in a Renaissance style that is not the typical style of Dutch city halls. The most impressive part of the building is the 70-meter high tower including a clock, a bell, and an angel of peace at the top. Tourists could enter the court yard through the arch entrance and look at the surroundings.

在市中心,另一座在二战中幸存下来的老建筑是鹿特丹市政厅。 它根据威廉女王的要求建于 1914 年至 1940 年间。它具有法国宫殿般的对称设计并采用文艺复兴风格,与荷兰典型的市政厅设计风格完全不同。这座建筑最令人印象深刻的就是70米高的塔楼,塔顶有一个大钟和一个代表和平的天使。游客可以通过拱门进入庭院参观。

Het park

Close to the city center, I passed by a small piece of park with ornate gardens by the water. Het park is designed in 1852 by Dutch architect Zocher who was inspired by the English country style. There are small small pavilions and BBQ spots here. It’s a perfect place for family having a outdoor party. The park is at the corner of the observation tower Euromast.

在老城区我顺路经过了一个装饰有华丽的花园的水畔公园。这座Het 公园由荷兰建筑师 Zocher 于 1852 年设计,他的灵感来源与英国乡村风格。这里遍布小亭子和烧烤点,适合家庭聚会。 公园位于Euromast观景塔的脚下。

Euromast is a modernism tower with height of 184.6 meters. It used to be the highest building of the Netherlands. Tourists could take lifts to the top of the tower and enjoy the panoramic view of Rotterdam. All the landscapes of row-upon-row skyscrapers, slender Erasmus bridge, scenic Het park, gushing Mass river are within my eyes. Indeed, from aerial view of city’s skyline, all the buildings no matter near or faraway are so modern!

Euromast 是一座高度为 184.6 米现代风格的观景塔。它曾是荷兰最高的建筑。 游客可以乘电梯到塔顶,欣赏鹿特丹的全景。鳞次栉比的摩天大楼、修长的伊拉斯谟大桥、风景秀丽的Het公园、川流不息的马斯河,一切尽在我眼前。 居高临下鸟瞰城市的天际线,所有的建筑无论远近都是如此现代!

Westersingel

I have spent one day in Rotterdam. Before I left the city, I remembered one more charming layout of this city is the canal lined with lawns on each side. The Westersingel is located near the Central Station and it’s a short canal decorated with old trees and vegetations. I could enjoy the view of modernism sculptures along this pretty canal and walk all the way towards the train station. During the second half of the nineteenth century, the city became overpopulated and the environment was unhealthy to live in. The Westersingel canal was dug as part of a water project in order to improve the quality of the surface water in the city. This was an effective way of tackling deadly diseases such as cholera.

我在鹿特丹度过了美好一天。 在临行之际想起这座城市的另一个温馨的城市布局就是两旁种满了草坪的运河。Westersingel运河位于中央火车站附近,是一条用古树和植被装饰的小运河。我沿着这条美丽的运河一路欣赏现代主义雕塑直达火车站。在 19 世纪下半叶,鹿特丹人口过剩,居住环境不佳。为了改善城市地表水的质量,市政府进行了Westersingel 运河的挖掘工作并作为供水项目的一部分。这同时也是应对霍乱等靠脏水传染的致命疾病的有效方法。

Centraal Station

At the end of the Westersingel canal, it’s the central station of Rotterdam under feet of high-rises and it’s the time to say goodbye to this lovely city. Compared with the black-and-white photos taken 100 years ago, all the things, buildings, and landscapes have experienced a total metamorphosis except the big clock on the front façade and the letters ‘Centraal Station’. Indeed, war had inflicted pains and damages on the old city but also gave a rebirth to the vibrant new city. The modern Rotterdam is like a volant phoenix, reviving from burnt ashes.

在 Westersingel 运河的尽头,高楼大厦脚下就是鹿特丹的中央车站,是时候与这座可爱的城市道别了。 与100年前的黑白照片相比,除了正立面的大钟和“中央车站”字样外,所有的事物、背景建筑和景观都发生了彻底的蜕变。战争无疑给这座老城带来了巨大的痛苦和毁灭,但也让充满活力的新城就此重建。现代鹿特丹就像一只展翅欲飞的凤凰,涅槃重生。

Idyllic landscape in Kinderdijk

小孩堤防的田园风光

For the love of princess

Before I visit Europe, in my mind, Netherlands is a distant country at the other end of the continent which is famous of tulip and windmill. I never imagine that one day I will have a chance to visit this wonder land like Alice visiting the world that exists in the imagination. Netherlands also means ‘lower country’ due to to its low elevation. Only about half of its land is above sea level. Canal and wetland spread over the whole country and this forms an unique idyllic landscape that you can not find in other places.

游历欧洲之前,在我的脑海里,荷兰是一个以郁金香和风车闻名,位于欧亚大陆的另一端异常遥远的国家。 我从未想过居然有一天我会像爱丽丝一样踏足这片神奇的土地,这片曾经只存在于想象中的世界。 由于海拔过低,荷兰字面意思就是“低地国家”。 它只有大约一半的土地高于海平面。 运河和湿地遍布全国,形成了异域独特的田园风光。

In September 2020, after I finished the trip in Brussels, I took the train towards Netherlands directly. My first stop is Dordrecht. It is a small city near Rotterdam. Actually urbanization in Netherlands has reached a high extent so there is not too much difference between city and rural area. The most common scene in the city of Netherlands is the interleaving of canals flowing through many small bridges.

2020年9月,结束布鲁塞尔之旅后,我坐火车直抵荷兰。 第一站便是多德雷赫特。 这是鹿特丹附近的一个小城市。 实际上荷兰的城市化程度很高,因此城市和农村之间没有太大的区别。 荷兰城市最常见的景观就是运河交错,小桥流水。

I got off the train at the station of Dordrecht in this cool morning as it is the nearest place towards my dreamed destination Kinderdijk. This is my first time of visiting Netherlands so I was curious of every thing here. I didn’t stay a long time in Dordrecht but I still tried record what I had seen in my camera. There are not many high rise buildings in this city and most of the mansions and resident house look quite modern and new.

这个凉爽的早晨我在多德雷赫特站下车,这是离我梦中的目的地小孩堤防最近的城市。 这也是我人生第一次探寻荷兰,故此对这里的一草一木都很好奇。我在多德雷赫特没未逗留很久,但仍然在相机中记下我的所见所闻。 这座城市的高层建筑匮乏,大部分的宅邸和民居感官上都崭新现代。

Next in a short while, I took the direct bus from Dordrecht to Kinderdijk and began this fantastic trip. The name Kinderdijk in Dutch stands for “Children dike”. The windmills of Kinderdijk are one of the best-known Dutch tourist sites. Tourists could rent boats to visit this village. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 since it represents the Dutch outstanding technology of handling water. From far away, their silhouettes against the sun light are really amazing, like the giants waving lance in the novel of Don Quixote.

顷刻之间我便乘坐从多德雷赫特到小孩堤防的直达巴士开启这段神奇之旅。 Kinderdijk 这个名字在荷兰语中意思就是“小孩堤坝”。小孩堤防的风车是荷兰最著名的旅游景点。 游客可以租船游览整个村庄。它代表了荷兰人民高超的水处理技术,并于 1997 年被列为联合国教科文组织世界遗产。 远远望去,在阳光照映下的风车身影真是令人陶醉,他们就像堂吉诃德小说中挥舞长矛的巨人一般。

Kinderdijk is a fascinating village with rural landscape of a total of nineteen 18th-century windmills. These ‘giants’ dancing in the wind are always the icon of Netherlands. These windmills are built to pump excess water into a reservoir from the polder and pump water from the reservoir into river when water level is low. Polder is a piece of low-lying land reclaimed from the sea. Its level will be below the surrounding water level in the long run due to the ground subsidence. As a result, it is a priority for Dutch people to get rid of water from the polder. Even today, this complex system composed of windmills, dykes, reservoirs, pumping stations are still used.

小孩堤防是一个迷人的村庄,共有 19 座 18 世纪建造的风车。这些风中舞动的巨人一直是荷兰的标志。风车的建造是为了将多余的水从圩田泵入水库,并在水位低时将水从水库引入河流。圩田是一片从海中开垦的低洼土地。 由于地面沉降,长期以来它的水位将低于周围。因此荷兰当地人的首要任务就是清除圩田中的积水。时至今日,这个由风车、堤坝、水库、泵站组成的一体系统仍在启用。

Nederwaard Museum Mill

Among the 19 windmills, two of them are built as museum and open for visit. This Nederwaard Museum in the center of this photo was a wooden windmill built in 1738. If you observe closely, you could find the word ‘Anno 1738’ on the white plaque of the mill. You’ll feel like a time-traveler when you enter through the ancient small wooden gate and stare at those remaining black-and-white photos and items used by real miller families. In the creak of the antiquated wheel axis, everything here breathes the atmosphere of ages past.

19座风车中,有两座被建成博物馆,对外开放参观。 这张照片中央的这座内德瓦德博物馆是一座建于 1738 年的木制风车。如果仔细观察,可以在磨坊的白色牌匾上发现“Anno 1738”字样(纪元1738)。从历尽沧桑的木制小门进入博物馆,凝视那些当年生活在此的家庭遗留下来的黑白照片和物品时,人们就会感觉自己如同一个穿越者一般。 在陈旧的轮轴的咯吱声中,这里的一切都弥漫着古老的历史气息。

Kinderdijk is situated in the Alblasserwaard polder at the south side of the river Lek. There is a visiting center at the entrance of the village. I walked along the canal from the entrance towards south. There is no need to buy any tickets if visitors just walk on the footpath at the both banks of the canal. 19 windmills are distributed evenly southwards. The distance between each windmill is quite large so I could just take picture with only one of them. Now I was standing at one small pier. It’s like a platform protruding from the path and is suitable for taking a perfect picture.

小孩堤防位于Lek 河南侧的 Alblasserwaard 圩田。村口便是游客中心。 我从入口沿着运河一路向南。如果游客只是在运河两岸的人行便道上行走,无需购买任何门票。19座风车向南均匀分布。每个风车之间跨距甚远,无奈只能和它们的一员同框合影。此刻我站在一个小码头上。它就像一个从小径伸出的平台,适合拍摄一幅完美的照片。

On the way, I met a group of local people riding bicycles. Unlike other countries, cycling is a very common mode of transport in the Netherlands. Dutch have built a vast network of cycle paths even in the villages around the country. In Kinderdijk, there are some small bridges connecting both banks. They are convenient for the bicycle riders and me as well to cross the canal.

途中偶遇了一群骑自行车的当地人。与其他国家不同,自行车在荷兰是一种非常普遍的交通方式。 荷兰人甚至在全国各地的村庄都建立了庞大的自行车道网络。 在小孩堤防,有一些小桥连接两岸方便骑手和步行的我穿越运河。

The wide footpath is paved by bitumen flatly. It is well designed for both cyclists and pedestrians. On the road sides, reeds are planted and grow in exuberance. Here is a world away from the hubbub of city life and everything is so refreshing. The weather in Netherlands is not so good compared to the sunny Mediterranean coast. It has a typically moderate marine climate so in September, it is usually rainy everyday. I was fortune enough to see blue sky over this land on the day of my trip.

宽阔的人行道由平坦的沥青铺成。它专为自行车骑手和行人而设计。路边种满了枝繁叶茂的芦苇。此处是一个远离城市喧嚣的世界,眼前一切都是令人耳目一新。不过与阳光明媚的地中海沿岸相比,荷兰的天气实在不敢恭维。它是典型的温带海洋气候,在 9 月整月,通常都是阴雨连绵。我十分庆幸在旅行当天能够目睹这片土地上的蓝天白云。

Dutch culture is closely interwoven with the water. It is easy to find small rivers or canals or ponds in the country. The local people like to walk at the riverside or shuttle back and forth in the canals on small boat. This kind of landscape is extremely close to the southeast of China at the side of Yangtze river. At the start of Autumn, numerous dead reed leaves fall all over the sandbar, and the shallow cold water flows and hits the bank silently.

荷兰文化与水息息相关。在该国小河流或运河或池塘无处不在。当地人喜欢在河边散步或乘坐小船在运河中穿梭。这别样的风光似乎有一种似曾相识的感觉。没错秋天伊始,芦叶满汀洲,寒沙带浅流,这正是落花时节的江南好风景啊!

Netherlands will give people an impression of a country with green, flat landscapes and grazing cows. Of course when I stepped on this land, I would know that such a porotype impression is 100% true. In the south of Kinderdijk, there is a large area of meadow where hundreds of cows live in. Cows do not like soggy meadows so it’s important to exclude the extra water and keep the meadow dry. The cows in Netherlands has a more free and better life as well. Based on statistic, 71 percent of Dutch dairy cows were allowed to graze in the meadow. They are fed by grass of high quality in this land. Holstein Friesians is one famous breed of dairy cattle that originates in Netherlands.

荷兰给人的第一印象一般是一个绿意盎然、风吹草低见牛羊的国家。当我真正踏上这片土地时,我就发现这样的田园风光绝对是真实的。 在小孩堤防的南部,有一大片草地, 数百头奶牛在这里生活繁衍。奶牛不喜欢潮湿的草地,排除多余的水并保持草地干燥就显得格外重要。当然荷兰的奶牛也拥有更自由、更美好的生活。据统计,71% 的荷兰奶牛都是放牧而生,它们以这片土地上的优质草料为食。Holstein Friesians就 是一种起源于荷兰著名的奶牛品种。

I definitely believe Kinderdijk is an heaven for animals. Many pieces of lands are reclaimed from the sea and lined out for raising livestock. One horse family was browsing on the meadow silently beside the sluiceway. Their territory is separated by the fences so that no one will disrupt their peaceful life. I like the idyllic landscape here. Every creatures could live well in harmony.

我绝对相信小孩堤防就是是动物的天堂。 这里许多土地从海中开垦出来,用于饲养牲畜。 照片里马儿一家在水闸旁的草地上静静地觅食。他们的领地被栅栏隔开,没有人会干扰他们平静的生活。我尤其倾心这里的田园风光,各种生物都可以和谐相处。

I gave a close-up shot to one of the horses browsing grass. Horse is one of my favorite animals because my Chinese zodiac belongs to horse. I believe that horses will bring luck to me but I did not have chance to observe closely at them before. It’s possible that this horse is the breed of The Dutch Warmblood. It is an athletic breed of competition horse with better stamina and courage.

我特意给其中一匹正在安静吃草的马拍了一张特写。马是我最喜欢的动物之一,我的十二生肖就是马。我也相信马会给我带来好运,不过以前却没有机会仔细观察它们。 这匹马可能是荷兰温血马的品种。它是一种运动型的跑马,具有较好的耐力和勇气。

I took around 2 hours to finish my trip in the country side of Kinderdijk. I seemed to gain endless energy from this magic land. Followingly, I walked around their residence area in Alblasserdam without any rest. The rural areas of Netherlands including their houses and streets really impressed me. These small canals which surfaces are interspersed with water lily pads extend to every corner of the neighborhoods. Small mansions with span-new walls and windows are lined up neatly along both banks.

大约 2 个小时在小孩堤防乡村的旅行戛然而止。而我似乎从这片神奇的土地上获得了无尽的能量。 随后无需任何休息,我又在位于Alblasserdam的居住区周围四处漫步。荷兰的乡村包括他们的房屋和街道均给我留下了深刻的印象。这些水面散布着睡莲的小运河蜿蜒延伸到社区的每个角落。两岸一字排开的小宅邸,它们的墙壁和窗户都如此焕然一新。

The urban landscaping in the community is fantastic. There are always many trees, meadows, and water ponds. I love the cozy environment here. Under the umbrage of willows, I could tranquilly observe the ripples on the water, the frolics of swans, and overhear the whispers of the wind.

社区的景观绿化也异常完善包括许多树木、草地和水塘。这里舒适的环境令我由衷赞叹。 在柳树的树荫下,我静静地观察水面的涟漪,天鹅的嬉戏,并且聆听风的低语。

In the afternoon, I bade farewell to the windmills in Kinderdijk and headed towards my next destination Rotterdam. The public transport system in Netherlands is really convenient. Boat or called water bus is one main mode of transportation is well. In the water bus station Alblasserdam, travelers could take the waterbus No.20 towards Rotterdam Erasmusbrug. In Netherlands, you just need to buy one OV chipcard then you can go anywhere with just one card. It covers all the public transport like metro, bus, ferry, water bus and even train.

午后我告别了小孩堤防的风车,前往下一个目的地鹿特丹。 荷兰的公共交通系统绝对方便。 船或称为水上巴士是也一种主要的交通方式。 在水上巴士站 Alblasserdam,旅客可以乘坐 20 号水上巴士前往鹿特丹 Erasmusbrug站。 在荷兰游客只需购买一张 OV 芯片卡就可以去任何地方。它涵盖了所有公共交通工具,如地铁、公共汽车、渡轮、水上巴士甚至火车。

Lastly I would like to highlight that Kinderdijk is a really fantastic and worthy place to see the beautiful landscape of windmills but it is not the only one. Zaanse Schans is also one recommended place to see the similar scenery. As for which one is better, I could not make comments easily. It depends on your personal experience when you explore them by yourselves in reality. After that definitely like Alice you will find a new world that only existed in your dream before.

最后寄语,小孩堤防是一个非常值得旅游的地方,那里有美不胜收的风车风景,但它不是唯一参观风车的地方。桑斯安斯风车村也是观赏类似风景的推荐地点之一。 至于哪个更好,我不能妄下结论。 也许当你真正自己去探索它们时,才会有一些自己的观点。不过肯定的是,探寻之后你会像爱丽丝一样发现一个以前只存在于你梦中的新世界。

The summer trip in the capital of Europe

欧盟之都夏日行

Brussels is the capital of European union and it is the first stop of my graduation trip in Low countries in September 2020. This was my first time of visiting Belgium and I had quite a high expectation of it. I took Flix Bus from Lille and it took around 1.5 hour to arrive at the city center of Brussel. When I was a child, I knew the legend story of the ‘Peeing Boy’. This time on my way, I really could not hold up the excitement in my heart.

布鲁塞尔是欧盟的首都,它也是我在低地国2020年9月毕业之旅的第一站。这是我第一次来比利时旅游,故此抱有很高的期待。 我从里尔乘坐 Flix巴士,大约 1.5 小时抵达布鲁塞尔市中心。 在我的孩提时代,我就知晓“撒尿小孩”的传奇故事。 路途上我便难以抑制心中的激动心情。

Palais de la Bourse

Brussel is famous of its architecture art. When I walked around the central boulevards, I took notice of its buildings which were somewhat similar of Paris. The first one is the former Brussels Stock Exchange building built in 1873. It combines the neo-Renaissance and Second Empire architectural styles. The Ionic column and entablature decorated with bas-relief is always my favorite. There is one interesting point: the two monumental lion sculptures on each side of the main entrance’s staircase represent the two stock market trends “bull and bear”.

布鲁塞尔以其建筑艺术而闻名。 当我在中央林荫大道上来回穿梭时,便感觉到它的建筑与巴黎的相似处。 我所见的第一眼是建于1873年的前布鲁塞尔证券交易所大楼。它结合了新文艺复兴和第二帝国的建筑风格。 艾奥尼亚柱和浅浮雕装饰的柱顶一直是我的最爱。 有一处很有意思:正门楼梯两边的两尊巨大的狮子雕塑代表了股市中的牛市和熊市。

Grand Place

In each city of Belgium, the unique city square in the city center justifies the aesthetic wealth and highly successful blending of architectural and artistic styles that characterizes the culture and society of Low countries. The square in Brussel called Grand place has been a marketplace since the 12th century. It is an enclosed area and surrounded by guild houses and market halls, which are still mostly built of wood. It is highly recommended to have a drink at the cafeteria in the square and admire the splendid beauty at the same time. The square has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

比利时的每个城市中心独特的广场彰显了低地国家文化以及建筑美学和艺术风格的高度成功融合。 布鲁塞尔的广场被称为大广场,自 12 世纪以来一直是城市的集市。 这里是一个封闭的区域,周围环绕着中世纪公会房屋和市场大厅,大多是用木头建造的。 强烈建议在广场的咖啡厅小酌一杯,欣赏四周华丽的风景。该广场于 1998 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。

The Brussels City Museum

It is a cobbled rectangular market square, surrounded by Baroque guildhalls in the west and the city’s Town Hall in the south, and the Brussels City Museum in the north. In this picture, the neo-Gothic building with steep-sloping roof and spires is the King’s House in 1860 which houses the Brussels City Museum. It collects paintings, sculptures, and tapestries from medieval times. It is called the King’s house because the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V was crowned King of Spain in 1516. This building has a neoclassical arched portal and is decorated with the baroque style’s small elliptical oeil-de-boeuf windows. Many green-colored bronze statues are easy to be identified and have a stark contrast with the grey color of the main body.

它是一个鹅卵石铺就的长方形集市广场,西边是巴洛克风格的工会大厅,南边是城市的市政厅,北边是布鲁塞尔市博物馆。 在这张照片中,装饰有陡峭屋顶和尖顶的新哥特式建筑是 1860 年的国王居所,里面是布鲁塞尔市博物馆。 它收集了中世纪的绘画、雕塑和挂毯。 因为神圣罗马帝国皇帝查理五世于 1516 年加冕为西班牙国王,所以被称为国王之家。这座建筑有一个新古典主义风格的拱形门户,并装饰着巴洛克风格的小椭圆法式天窗。 许多绿色青铜雕像清晰可见,与主体的灰色形成鲜明对比。

This square is called the ‘Grand place’ but obviously it is not so large. At this moment, I was standing in the center of the square on the historical stone-paved ground. Usually this place is extremely crowded however during this special period of coronavirus, most tourists are forbidden to coming Europe and I seemed to be the only one existence here. Behind me, a number of guildhalls and a few private houses are reconstructed after the bombardment of 1695. Their stylish golden facades with their rich sculptural decoration including pilasters and balustrades and lavishly designed gables are based on my favorite Italian Baroque with some Flemish influences. I enjoyed the special feeling of standing or sitting in squares and looking around the old buildings like I have done it before in Venice, Paris, Florence etc. Feeling the culture of the city is the meaning of travel.

这个广场被称为“大广场”,但显然它并没有那么宏大。 此刻,我站在广场中心历史悠久的石板地上。 通常这个地方人潮涌动,但是在这个特殊的新冠时期,大多数游客被禁止进入欧洲,我似乎成为这里独一无二的存在。 在我身后,这些工会大厅和私人住宅在 1695 年的轰炸后重建。它们时尚的金色外墙以及丰富的雕塑装饰,包括壁柱和栏杆以及设计奢华的山墙均是我最喜欢的在佛朗德地区影响下的意大利巴洛克风格。 我喜欢在威尼斯、巴黎、佛罗伦萨等地静静地坐在广场上环顾老建筑的特殊感觉。感受城市的文化韵味是才是旅行的意义。

The Town Hall

The tallest building in the square is the town hall which was built between 1401 and 1455. It is very large building and is difficult to take the picture of its whole appearance. I tried to zoom in and record the numerous small statues on the façade clearly in my camera. These statues represent the local nobility and saints. The most spectacular thing is the 96 meters tall tower and is capped by a 2.7 meters statue of Saint Michael slaying a demon. Saint Michael is the patron saint of the city.

广场上最高的建筑是建于1401年至1455年之间的市政厅。这是一座非常庞大的建筑,很难拍下它的整体外观。 我试着将镜头放大,把立面上无数的小雕像清晰地记录在我的相机里。 这些雕像代表了当地的贵族和圣徒。 最壮观的是96米高的塔楼,塔顶是2.7米高的圣迈克屠魔雕像,圣迈克也是这座城市的守护神。

House of the Dukes of Brabant

When I was in the square, I was so busy in scrutinizing the every details of the buildings of different styles that I felt only two eyes were not enough for me. On the eastern side of the square, it’s one building close to French style, the House of the Dukes of Brabant. It is actually a set of seven guild-houses combined behind the same monumental façade and named after the nineteen busts of dukes of Brabant on the facade’s pilasters. It currently houses a restaurant and the square’s only hotel. Visitors could find the golden seals of the merchant trades that worked here centuries ago so it represents “Recovery of Trade and Industry.”

在广场上我忙于审视不同风格的建筑的每一个细节,顿时有种目不暇接的感觉。 在广场的东侧,是一座接近法式风格的建筑——布拉班特公爵府。 它实际上是一组由七个公会房屋组成的合体,位于同一巨大的立面后面,并以正立面壁柱上的 19 尊布拉班特公爵半身像命名。 它目前设有一家餐厅和广场上唯一的旅馆。 游客可以在这里找到几个世纪前在此间忙碌的商贸协会的金印,这些建筑也代表着“贸易和工业的复苏”。

In the south east corner of the square, there is a block of houses named in French. The house with a golden statue of a rider mounting on a horse is named of L’arbre d’or which means the tree of gold. It is House of the Corporation of Brewers dated from 1698 and is now converted into a brewery museum. Another houses at the right side of the L’arbre d’or is named of Le Cygne which is a romantic name, means swan. However, in the history of 17th century, it was the House of the Corporation of Butchers. It is very famous because Karl Marx wrote the Manifesto of the Communist Party in this house.

在广场的东南角,有一栋皆是法语名的房屋。 这座装饰着一尊骑在马上的骑手的金色雕像的房子法语叫做 L’arbre d’or ,意思是金树。 它是 1698 年的啤酒公司,现在改建为啤酒博物馆。 L’arbre d’or 右侧的另一座房子名曰Le Cygne,这是一个浪漫的名字,意思是天鹅。 然而,在 17 世纪时期它是屠夫公司。 它在历史上大名鼎鼎,卡尔马克思曾在这座房子里撰写了共产党宣言。

The monument of Everard t’Serclaes

The house at the rightest side is the Maison de l’Étoile which means the house of the star. At the archway of this houses towards the square, the monument of Everard t’Serclaes can be found on its wall. It was created in memory of Everard t’Serclaes, a Belgian hero, who led the local people dispelling the Flemish troops out of the city. He breathed his last breath and died in the Maison de l’Étoile. It is said that touching the hand of his statue brings good luck and health so don’t miss it when you visit Brussel.

上图最右边的房子是 Maison de l’Étoile,意思是星辰居。 在这栋房屋通往广场的拱门处,可以在墙上发现 Everard t’Serclaes 的纪念碑。 它是为了纪念英雄 Everard t’Serclaes 带领当地人民将佛兰德军队驱赶出城市。 他生前最后的弥留时刻就是在星辰居。 据说触摸他的雕像的手会带来好运和健康,所以访问布鲁塞尔时一定不要错过它。

The Royal Gallery of Saint Hubert

Brussel is good place of shopping as well. In the city center, there is one shopping arcades which is similar to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. The Galleries Royal is a long gallery of two upper floors designed by Belgian architect Jean-Pierre Cluysenaer, and established in 1846 as a fashionable place for shopping and chocolate tasting. Belgium is very famous for its chocolate so around this area you can find many stores of the most prestigious Belgian chocolate brands for example Pierre Marcolini.

布鲁塞尔也是一个购物天堂。 在市中心,有一个类似于米兰维多利亚长廊的购物商场。 这个皇家画廊是由比利时建筑师让-皮埃尔·克鲁伊森纳设计的两层长廊,建于 1846 年,是游客购物和品尝巧克力的绝佳场所。 比利时以其巧克力而闻名天下,畅游此地遍寻例如 Pierre Marcolini等众多负有盛名的比利时巧克力品牌。

Here is the end of the gallery. We can find many Italian Renaissance architecture elements here, for example, the utilization of columns, pilasters, and entablatures as an integrated system. It has one arched glass-paned roof which allows sufficient sunlight coming in.

这是画廊的尽头洋溢着众多意大利文艺复兴时期的建筑元素,例如柱子、壁柱和柱顶等系统的使用。 它还拥有一个拱形的玻璃屋顶,让充分的阳光照射进来。

Manneken Pis

There are so many architecture master pieces in Brussels. However, when we talk about this city, the first impression will be this famous statue called Manneken Pis which means little pissing man. It is a naked little boy urinating into the fountain’s basin. The statue was designed by the sculptor Jérôme Duquesnoy and put in place in 1618. The Manneken Pis is located in the corner of one street, just a stone’s throw away from the Grand Place. It originates from the legend in the 14th century. Brussels was under siege by a foreign army who conceived of a plan to place explosive charges at the city walls. A little boy named Julianske happened to discover the plot. He urinated on the burning fuse and thus saved the city. Manneken Pis is dressed in different costumes and changed several times each week. It is an unique feature of this city. Honestly saying, at the first glance, I was a bit disappointed because the statue was too small and always surrounded by tourists…

布鲁塞尔有众多建筑杰作。 然而,当我们谈论这座城市时,第一印象一定是这座名为 Manneken Pis 的雕像,即撒尿小童。 小男孩肆无忌惮在喷泉的水池里小便的雕像由雕塑家 Jérôme Duquesnoy 设计,并于 1618 年安置在这里。撒尿小童位于一条街道的拐角处,距离大广场仅一箭之遥。 它起源于14世纪的传说。 当时布鲁塞尔遭到外国军队的围攻,他们策划在城墙上放置炸药的阴谋。 也许上天有眼一个名叫朱利安斯克的小男孩碰巧发现这一切。 他迅速在燃烧的导火索上小便,从而拯救了这座城市。如今撒尿小童身着不同的服装,每周都会更换几次。 这也成为了这座城市的独特之处。 不过乍一看,确实有点令人失望,这座雕像实在太小了,而且总是被趋之若鹜的游客围个里三层外三层……

After several hours’ walk, I decided to find a place to fill my stomach. This restaurant is called Nooedzee, Mer du Nord is a bit different with the usual ones. It has a very large blue name plaque with a symbol of fish on it so people will think that it is fish shop. All the tables are outside the store maybe because of coronavirus. Their menu is written in French on the blackboard by hands. People just order at the counter and tell them your names. Then the food is served based on your names. I tasted the fish soup with cheese, oyster with lemon and fried cod which is suggested by the staff. The food ingredient is extremely fresh but the amount is too small. Anyway this is my first taste in Belgium and it’s always imporatnt to keep a good mood..

几个时辰的奔波后,我决定找个地方大快朵颐一番。 这家名为Nooedzee, Mer du Nord的海鲜餐厅与通常的海鲜餐厅有些不同。它有一个很大的蓝色牌匾,上面有一个巨大的鱼的标志,路人们也许会误判它为鱼店。可能因为新冠疫情它所有的桌子都陈列在餐厅外面。 他们的菜单是用法语手写在黑板上的。 人们只是在柜台订购并告知店员你的名字。 然后根据姓名上菜。 我品尝了工作人员推荐的搭配奶酪的鱼汤、牡蛎和炸鳕鱼。 这里的食材确实非常新鲜,不过分量略少。 不管怎么,这是我在比利时的第一次的品尝, 保持好的心情才是最重要的。

The Place des Martyrs

In every city of Europe, there are many squares with hundred years history. You don’t need to look for them intentionally. When you pass by them occasionally, you will be amazed by their elegances. The Place des Martyrs is a historic square which name represents the martyrs of the September days of the Belgian Revolution of 1830. It symbolizes the sacrifice of 466 persons who died in the fights of September 1830 for the independence of Belgium from the United Kingdom of the Netherlands. This neoclassical square was designed in 1773. It is paved by cobble stone. Walking around the square, I could discover some monuments memorizing the heroes of Belgium.

在欧洲的每个城市,都有众多具有百年历史的广场。 无需刻意探寻也许当你偶遇之时,就会被这种优雅而折服。 这座烈士广场也是一个历史悠久的广场,其名代表 着1830 年比利时九月革命的烈士。它象征着 466 名在 1830 年 9 月为比利时脱离荷兰独立而战死的烈士。 这座新古典主义的广场最早设计于 1773 年,由鹅卵石铺成。 走在广场上,可以看到许多纪念比利时英雄的纪念碑。

The Congress Column 

Next, I was travelling along one street called Royale Street. There are many historical buildings relating to the creation of Belgium Kingdom and the royal family on this street. The first one is this high rising column that looks like Trajan’s Column in Rome. It commemorates the creation of the Belgian Constitution by the National Congress of 1830. It was erected between 1850 and 1859 according to a design by Joseph Poelaert. At the top of the column is a statue of Belgium’s first king Leopold I and at its base, the pedestal is surrounded by bronze statues personifying the four freedoms guaranteed under the Constitution including freedom of education, association, worship, and press. The tomb of the Unknown Soldier with an eternal flame lies at its foot. Brussel is the capital of Belgium so there will be some landmarks relating to government.

接下来,我沿着名曰皇家大街的主干道继续我的旅行。 这条街上有许多与比利时王国以及王室建立有关的历史建筑。 第一个便是这个神似罗马图拉真之柱的高耸的大立柱。它是为了纪念 1830 年国民议会制定的比利时宪法。它是根据约瑟夫·波拉尔特的设计于 1850 年至 1859 年之间竖立于此。 柱子顶部是比利时第一任国王利奥波德一世的雕像,基座周围环绕着青铜雕像,体现了基本宪法保障的教育、结社、宗教和言论等四项自由。燃烧着长明火焰的无名战士墓就在它的脚下。布鲁塞尔是比利时的首都,故此拥有大量与政府有关的地标。

Place Royale

Neoclassical architecture is very popular in Belgium during the period of Austrian occupation in the mid-18th century and existed through periods of French and Dutch occupation, until the birth of Independent Belgium. This royal square is a typic neoclassical architecture and built between 1775 and 1782. The Governor of the Austrian Netherlands, Prince Charles Alexander of Lorraine proposed to build it like the Place Stanislas in Nancy so its design follows the Place Stanislas with a statue in the center of the rectangular and symmetrical square surrounded by pavilions in the corner. The statue represents Godfrey of Bouillon the leader of the First Crusade waving the standard.

新古典主义建筑在 18 世纪中叶奥地利占领时期的比利时非常流行,并同时存在于法国和荷兰占领时期。 这座皇家广场是一座典型的新古典主义建筑,建于 1775 年至 1782 年之间。奥属荷兰总督洛林的查尔斯·亚历山大王子提议将其依照南锡的斯坦尼斯拉斯广场一样建造。因此其设计完全沿用了斯坦尼斯拉斯广场的理念,在对称的正方形的广场中央有一尊雕像 ,四角楼阁环抱。雕像代表第一次十字军东征的领袖戈弗雷挥舞着胜利旗帜。

Brussels Park

During the period of constructing the Royal square, Brussels Park is another part of the urban project as well. It is formerly known as the Royal Park because it lies on the site of the gardens of the former Palace of Coudenberg. This entrance is directly opposite to the Royal Palace of Brussels. It has a monumental fountain.

在建造皇家广场期间,布鲁塞尔公园也是城市项目的另一部分。 它以前被称为皇家公园,位于前库登堡宫花园的遗址上。 这个公园入口就在布鲁塞尔皇宫的正对面,有一个巨大的标志性喷泉。

The Royal Palace of Brussels

The royal palace of Brussels is just in the south of royal square. This area is the location of old Coudenberg Palace, a very old palatial that dated back to the Middle Ages but was ruined in a fire. The new palace is built on its original site. It is the official palace of the King and Queen of the Belgians and houses the services of the Grand Marshal of the Court, the King’s Head of Cabinet, the Head of the King’s Military Household and the Intendant of the King’s Civil List. The Palace is also the location of receptions of foreign Heads of State during official visits. However the king and his family don’t live here. Their residence is in the Royal Palace of Laeken in northern Brussels.

布鲁塞尔王宫就位于皇家广场的南面。 这个地区是旧库登堡宫的所在地,这是一座非常古老可以追溯到中世纪的宫殿,但在一场大火中被毁。 新宫殿建在原址上。 它是比利时国王和王后的官方所在地,同时也是法院内阁首脑、皇家军事首脑和文职大臣的工作场所。 布鲁塞尔王宫也是接待外国国家元首的官方地点。 然而,国王和他的家眷却不住在这里。他们的私人住所位于布鲁塞尔北部郊区的拉肯皇宫。

This building has an impressive façade. Its main color is gray with classical decoration and its style especially the flat roof really looks like a French building. The entrance of the palace is free and it’s worth of visiting it that records the history of Belgium. I enjoyed the cozy environment in this area. There are many open spaces. I could walk around freely and take the pictures in the preferred angle.

这座建筑的外观令人印象深刻。 它的主色调为灰色,古典的装饰风格。特别是平铺的屋顶感官上极其接近法式建筑。参观宫殿的是免费的,这座记录比利时历史的宫殿值得一游。 我很中意这片区域的舒适环境。放眼望去有诸多空地可以自由走动并以喜欢的角度进行拍摄。

The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium 

In this old royal district, there are many museums. The most representative one is the Royal Museums of Fine Arts. It collects over 20,000 drawings, sculptures, and paintings, which date from the early 15th century to the present. The museum was founded in 1801 by Napoleon Bonaparte. On its façade, 4 sculptures of figures atop the four main piers represent 4 forms of arts: Music, Architecture, Sculpture, and Painting. The three rondels represent the greatest Belgian artist at that time: Rubens, Van Ruysbroek, and Jean de Bologne.

这片曾经的皇家区域还包括众多博物馆。 最具代表性的是皇家美术博物馆。 它收集了从 15 世纪初至今的 20,000 多幅素描、雕塑和绘画作品。 该博物馆由拿破仑于 1801 年创立。 在正立面上的顶上4 个人物雕塑代表了 4 种艺术形式:音乐、建筑、雕塑和绘画。 这三个圆盘浮雕代表了当时最伟大的比利时艺术家鲁本斯、范鲁斯布鲁克和 博洛尼亚的让。

Landscape with the Fall of Icarus

The museum is famous of collection of Early Netherlandish painting. This is one of the Netherlandish master piece drawn by Pieter Bruegel the Elder. The theme of this painting derives from one famous Greek mythology. In the story, Icarus flies with wings made by his father Daedalus who uses feathers secured with beeswax. However he ignores his father’s warnings and flies too close to the sun, melting the wax, and falls into the sea and drowns. In this picture, his legs can be seen in the water just below the ship.

这个博物馆以收藏早期荷兰绘画而闻名。 这是荷兰画家老彼得·勃鲁盖尔绘制的杰作坠落的伊卡洛斯。 这幅画的主题来源于一个著名的希腊神话。 在故事中,伊卡洛斯用他的父亲代达罗斯制作的翅膀飞翔,代达罗斯用蜂蜡固定的羽毛。 然而他无视父亲的警告,飞得靠近太阳,从而融化了蜡掉进了海水里淹死了。 在这张名画中,可以看到他坠落之后的腿掉入船下方的水中。

Église Notre-Dame du Sablon

When I continued to walk along the Royal street, I passed by one small garden and took a short break inside it. Opposite the garden, there is one cathedral called the Church of Our Blessed Lady of the Sablon. It was built in the 15th century with a Brabantine Gothic exterior and two Baroque chapels. Numerous small turrets and pinnacles make it different with other churches. In Europe, there are so many churches so most of time tourists could only pass by and leave a glimpse on them.

继续沿着皇家大道前行,途中路过一个小花园,顺便稍作休息。花园对面是一座名为萨布隆圣母教堂的大教堂。 它建于 15 世纪,拥有布拉班哥特式外观和两个巴洛克式教堂。 众多的塔楼和小尖塔令它与其他教堂卓尔不同。 在欧洲旅行,教堂实在数不胜数,大部分时间作为匆匆过客只能留下短暂的眼缘。

Square of Petit Sablon

The urban design in the low countries is superb. Even in this limited space in the city center, there is one small garden with benches for people to rest. This small garden called Square of Petit Sablon was built in 1890. It is surrounded by a wrought-iron balustrade, decorated with 48 bronze statuettes which represent the ancient crafts once practiced in Brussels. There are ten statues decorating the rear of the park, illustrating the country’s celebrated scholars and humanists the 16th century. The statues of the Counts of Egmont and Hornes in the fountain symbolize the fight against Spanish tyranny in the 16th century. The pedestal is decorated with the coats of arms of their families. The travel in Brussel is interesting. I just walked slowly and stopped when I found the new attractive elements.

低地国家的城市设计绝对是首屈一指。 即使在市中心有限的空间里,也能创造出一个带长凳的小花园供人们休息。 这座名为小萨布隆广场的小花园建于 1890 年。它被锻铁栏杆环绕,栏杆上装饰着 48 个青铜小雕像,这些小雕像代表了曾经在布鲁塞尔奋斗过的古老工艺人。公园后侧装饰着十尊雕像,展示了比利时 16 世纪著名的学者和人文主义者。喷泉中央埃格蒙特伯爵和霍恩斯伯爵的雕像象征着 16 世纪比利时与西班牙暴政的斗争。基座则装饰着他们家族的徽章。布鲁塞尔的旅行新奇有趣。安步当车般走走停停,不时发现新的惊喜。

Palais de Justice

At the end of the Royal street, there is a huge building standing on the high land of 20 meters’ height. It was the Palace of Justice, built between 1866 and 1883. It was the largest building constructed in the world in the 19th century. It’s a court building including the Belgium’s supreme court of law. This magnificent building suffered heavy damage during World War II even today most part of it is under renovation. Its dome and façade is covered in scaffolding.

在皇家大街的尽头,20米高的高地上矗立着一座巨大的建筑。 它就是建于 1866 年至 1883 年之间的司法宫。它是 19 世纪世界上建造的最大的建筑。 如今也是一座法院大楼,包括比利时的最高法院。 这座宏伟的建筑在二战期间遭受了严重破坏,即使在今天,大部分建筑仍在翻新,它的圆顶和正立面被脚手架如包粽子般完全覆盖。

Even from far way, I could still distinguish this immense grey building with a large golden dome. Its style is a mixture of different styles. The interior of the building is decorated lavishly. It has a monumental marble staircase with Roman columns. The statues at the two flanks are Demosthenes, the famous orator of ancient Athens and Lycurgus, lawgiver of Sparta who established the military-oriented reformation of Spartan society.

即使在远方,我依然可以辨认出这座巨大的灰色建筑的轮廓以及金色的大圆顶。 它的风格是不同风格的混搭。建筑内部装饰华丽。它有一个装饰着罗马立柱的巨大大理石楼梯。 两侧的雕像分别是古雅典著名演说家德摩斯泰尼和确立以军事为主的斯巴达立法者莱库古斯。

The Botanical Garden

Brussel is a large city with so many travel attractions that I had to take two days to visit them. My first day trip focuses on historical buildings in the city center. My second day trip includes some parks, gardens and private houses in the suburb. It was a sunny morning. Firstly, I visited this botanical garden. It’s an Italian garden with an orangery of a French geometry and a rotunda of French baroque style with dome and columns. The middle terrace in an Italian style, has a star-shaped rose garden and an Iris garden. I like this kind of green landscape interspersed in the crowded city.

布鲁塞尔是一个有诸多旅游景点的大城市,不得不花足足两天时间一一便览。 我的第一天旅行着重于市中心的历史建筑。第二天行程包括郊区的一些公园、花园和私人住宅。 这是一个阳光明媚的早晨。首先探足的便是这个植物园。这是一个意大利花园包含一个法式几何形状的橘园和一个带有圆顶和柱子的法国巴洛克风格的圆形大厅。中庭为意式风格的星形玫瑰园和鸢尾花园。我十分欣赏在拥挤的城市里点缀着绿色景观的布局。

Marie Louise Square

In the east of city, there is a district of middle-class residential area. There are some gardens around this area. Marie Louise square is one of the elegant gardens with ducks swimming in the pretty tree-lined pond surrounded by greenery. A jet of fountain water comes out of a small island in the center of the pond. The garden is named by the French queen Marie-Louise, the wife of Napoleon.

城东有一片中产阶级住宅区。区域周围有诸多花园。玛丽路易丝广场就是其中一个风格优雅的花园,鸭子在绿树成荫的美丽池塘边嬉戏。一股泉水从池塘中央的一个小岛上喷涌而出。这座花园由拿破仑的妻子法国女王玛丽-路易丝命名。

There are numerous eclectic style mansions around the park. In front of the houses, there is a large surface of lawn decorated with bronze statues. I believe that the residents in these house must have a pleasant life every day when they open the window and face the greeneries and beautiful view outside.

公园四周环布风格各异的住宅。这些房屋前有一大片草坪,上面装饰着青铜雕像。脑补一下这里的住户每天打开窗户,面对外面的绿色植物宜人的风景,心情一定是舒畅无比的。

Then I passed by a series of common resident houses of Art Nouveau style. Nouveau means new in French so it means new art or modern art. It was often inspired by natural forms such as the sinuous curves of plants and flowers. This house only has three floors. Each block is separated by a rail fence. Although the court yard is very small, there is still a small area left for planting roses. Green moss leaves marks on the upper step and the rose vine looks like a green curtain in the yard. The small balconies are designed in different forms and their walls are painted in different colors. This kind of house is more interesting compared with the monotonous high-rise condominiums in Asian countries.

接下来我无意间路过了一列新艺术风格(Art Nouveau)的普通民居。Nouveau 在法语中的意思是新的,所以它代表着现代艺术。 它通常受到自然形式例如植物和花朵的蜿蜒曲线的启发。这列房子只有三层。每个街区都由围栏隔开。庭院虽小,却留有一小块地种植玫瑰,宛然一种苔痕上阶绿,草色入帘青的感觉。小阳台被设计成不同的样式,墙壁也被涂上了不同的颜色。这种房子比亚洲国家单调的高层住宅有趣多了。

Cinquantenaire Park

Continuing towards the east of the city, at noon I arrived at another landmark of Brussels, the Cinquantenaire Park which means the Fiftieth Anniversary. It is comprised of a set of gardens dotted with monuments and museums and dominated by a U-shaped triumphal arch with three arches. At this moment, I was standing at the large esplanade in front the arch, a very good place of taking pictures.

继续东行晌午时分我来到布鲁塞尔的另一个地标——五十周年纪念公园。 它由一组散布着纪念碑和博物馆的花园组成,并以一个带有三个拱门的U形凯旋门为主。此刻我站在拱门前的大广场上,这是一个非常适合拍照的地方。

The Cinquantenaire Arcade 

The most notable building in the park is of course this arcade. At its top, there’s a bronze quadriga entitled of Brabant Raising the National Flag and several sculptures representing the major cities and province of Belgium like Antwerp, Liege, Namur… This monument was built in 1880 for the 50th anniversary of the independence of Belgium. The pedestal in both directions bears the inscription: “This monument was erected in 1905 for the glorification of the independence of Belgium”. (One direction is in French and another direction is in Dutch.)

公园里最著名的建筑当属这个拱廊。 在它的顶部,有一个名为国旗飘扬的青铜四尊马车和几座代表比利时主要城市和省份的雕塑,如安特卫普、列日、那慕尔……这座纪念碑建于 1880 年,以纪念比利时独立 50 周年 。两个方向的基座上都刻有铭文:“这座纪念碑于 1905 年树立于此,以此纪念比利时独立的荣耀”。 (其中一个方向是法语,另一个方向是荷兰语。)

Stoclet Palace

In the suburb of Brussels, there are some Art Nouveau style private houses which are listed as World Heritage Site by UNESCO. They illustrate the outstanding local architecture arts to the utmost. The Stoclet Palace is a private mansion in the east of Cinquantenaire Park, very far away from the city enter. It was designed by the Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann for the Belgian financier Adolphe Stoclet between 1905 and 1911. It is built in the Vienna Secession style. I have never seen this kind of style before. The artistes of this style resigned from the Association of Austrian Artists in protest against its support for more traditional artistic styles. It is a kind of transition from Art Nouveau toward modernism. This house has a tower of stacked cubic forms with minimum ornament on the façade. Of course from my view I could not get its aesthetical value but it is listed as UNESCO heritage site in 2009 due to its influence on modernism in architecture. This house is still a private house owned by the Stoclet family and not open for visit.

在布鲁塞尔郊区,有一系列被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的新艺术风格的私人住宅。它们最好地展示了当地优秀的建筑艺术。这座斯托克莱宫是一座私人住宅,位于五十周年公园东边,离市区已经很远。它是由奥地利建筑师约瑟夫霍夫曼在 1905 年至 1911 年间为比利时金融家阿道夫斯托克莱设计的。它采用维也纳分离派风格建造。我以前从未见过这种风格。这种风格的艺术家曾经从奥地利艺术家协会辞职,以抗议其支持更传统的艺术风格。这种风格是一种从新艺术风格运动向现代主义的过渡。这所房子有一座堆叠的立方体塔,立面上的装饰朴实无华。当然,孤陋寡闻的我无法理解它的美学价值。但由于它对现代主义建筑的影响,它在 2009 年被列为联合国教科文组织遗产。这所住宅如今仍然是斯托克莱家族的私人住宅,不对外开放。

The Horta Museum 

Before I visited Belgium, the only private residence that I visited was the house designed by Gaudi. This time, I was standing in front if the house of Victor Horta’s former house and workshop. Horta was an excellent Belgian architect and designer, and one of the precursors of the Art Nouveau movement. Four of his designed houses in Brussels are listed in UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. Among the 4 houses, this museum is the most important with display of furniture, utensils and art objects designed by Horta. He has a great reputation of brilliant joining of the curved lines of decoration which can be expressed in his design of the balcony.

在游览比利时之前,我曾经参观的唯一私人住宅就是高迪设计的房子。这一次,我站在另一个大师维克多霍塔的故居前。霍塔是一位杰出的比利时建筑师和设计师,也是新艺术运动的先驱之一。 他在布鲁塞尔设计的四栋房屋于 2000 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。在这四栋房屋里,这座霍塔博物馆是最重要的,它展出霍塔设计的家具、器皿和艺术品。 他以出色的装饰曲线设计而享有盛誉,这可以在他设计的阳台中得到体现。

This is the living room of Horta’s house built in 1898. Horta is good at using steel frames , large windows, and skylights above stairways to bring light into the structures. His style is totally different with Gaudi. He prefers the single plain color theme in his design. The design like wooden floor, wooden door frame, and metallic doorknob is a bit closer to the modern interior decoration.

这是霍塔建于1898年的房子的客厅。霍塔擅长使用钢架、大窗户和楼梯上方的天窗为整个结构带来充足的光线。他的风格与高迪完全不同。他更喜欢在设计中使用单一的纯色主题。木地板、木门框、金属门把手等设计更接近现代室内装饰。

This is his bedroom. The wall and carpet is in dark blue which has a contrast with the yellow furniture. Horta is a great designer who designed large projects like Brussels central station. However all the furniture in his house like chairs and wardrobes are designed by him as well. Generally his room is arranged in relatively simple way. He like the big glass window that looks like a modern floor-to-ceiling window as well. Due to his great ideas of open floor plan, sunlight could come into the house easily and create a cozy environment.

这是他的卧室。墙壁和地毯是深蓝色的,与黄色的家具形成鲜明对比。霍塔是一位伟大的设计师,他还设计了布鲁塞尔中央车站等大型项目。同时他的所有家具,如椅子和衣柜,也是他自主设计而成。总体来说,他的房间布置得比较简单。他也喜欢很接近现代落地窗的大玻璃窗。由于对开放式设计的使用,阳光可以轻易进入房间创造出一个舒适的环境。

Brussels is large city and it has a perfect urban development plan with a good transportation system as well. For tourists it is easy to travel all the sites that I mention above in two days. Belgian city is not so famous compared with France and Italy. But there are different elements like parks, museums, palaces, squares and private houses for you to explore the history of Belgium. The trip could also widen your visions especially if you have not any ideas of the Art Nouveau. So don’t miss it as your next travel destination after the coronavirus ends.

最后补充一句布鲁塞尔是一座大城市,拥有完善的城市规划和良好的交通系统。 对于游客来说,两天内游览我上面提到的所有景点易如反掌。与法国和意大利相比,比利时城市并没有那么出名。但也包括如公园、博物馆、宫殿、广场和私人住宅等不同的风格元素供游客探索比利时的历史。旅行还可以拓宽视野,特别是如果你对新艺术运动一无所知的话 那么布鲁塞尔一定是你新冠病毒结束后的下一个旅行目的地。

In the morning light of Antwerp

朝行安特卫普

Yanni in the morning light

In the morning of September 10th, 2020, I was on my way back to France from Amsterdam. My planned trip was from Amsterdam to Antwerp, Ghent, Bruges, then Lille. In September, the weather in Low countries is usually rainy. I was really favored by the God that when I arrived at Antwerp, it was a sunny day with little breeze. I could bask in the warm morning sunlight freely when I just stepped out of the gate of station.

2020年9月10日早晨,我踏上从阿姆斯特丹返回法国的归途。 计划的旅行路线是从阿姆斯特丹到比利时的安特卫普、根特、布鲁日,最后是法国里尔。 九月初,低地国家的天气通常淫雨霏霏。可是我真的受上天眷顾,到达安特卫普之时,天气晴朗,风轻云淡。 刚迈出车站大门,就自在地沐浴在一抹温暖的晨光中。

Antwerpen Centraal station

Antwerp station was one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. I was stunned by its elegant designs when I got off the train. The architecture style of the station is eclecticism. It knits together the materials of the past (stone and marble) and the present(metal and glass). It was constructed in 1895. Its façade combines the neo-classical architectural elements characterized by the simple geometric forms and the Doric columns and the neo-renaissance architectural elements characterized by order and symmetry.

安特卫普车站被评为世界上最美丽的火车站之一。 刚下火车,它优雅的设计就令我感到震撼。 车站的建筑风格是折中风格。 它将代表过去的建筑材料(石头和大理石)和代表现代的建筑材料(金属和玻璃)结合在一起。 始建于1895年,它的立面结合了以简单几何形式和多立克柱为特征的新古典建筑元素和以秩序和对称为特征的新文艺复兴建筑元素。

The luxury design of the entrance hall of the station was really amazing. The staircase is decorated with marble balustrade like a Baroque palace. The big clock installed on the semi-circular glass panel is decorated with the gilded coat of arms of the city. There are many columns and arcades that makes me feel like that I was inside a renaissance building in Florence. The vast dome above the waiting room hall was designed by Louis Delacenserie and the vast (185 meters long and 44 meters high) iron and glass trainshed was designed by Clement van Bogaert. The principal designer Louis Delacenserie drew the inspiration from Lucerne Station in Switzerland. If I have a chance to visit Lucerne in the future, I will compare the difference and similarity of both stations firstly.

车站的入口大厅的豪华设计令人闻之瞠目。楼梯上装饰着大理石栏杆,宛如一座巴洛克式的宫殿。安装在半圆形玻璃面板上的大钟装饰着镀金的安特卫普城市徽章。众多柱子和拱廊仿佛将我置身于佛罗伦萨的一座文艺复兴时期的建筑中。 候车室大厅上方的巨大圆顶由 比利时建筑师Louis Delacenserie 设计,巨大的(185 米长和 44 米高)钢铁玻璃候车棚由 Clement van Bogaert 设计。 车站首席设计师 Louis Delacenserie 从瑞士的卢塞恩车站汲取灵感设计了本站。 愚以为若以后有机会去卢塞恩旅游,首先就会比较两个站的不同和相似处。

The most spectacular architecture of the hall is the 75-metre-high dome decorated with different types of marbles. The huge dome of the hall remind me of the Pantheon in Rome. At this moment, I felt like I was standing under the cupola of a cathedral.

大厅里最壮观的建筑就是75米高的圆顶,上面装饰着不同类型的大理石。 大厅的巨大圆顶不由得让人想起罗马的万神殿。 此刻我恍惚有种站在某个大教堂的圆顶下的错觉。

Antwerp Chinatown

Outside the train station, there is a district of China town. As a Chinese, I was excited to see this Chinese style golden Pagodepoort (which means pagoda gate or paifang) in the land out of China. The Chinese character on the gate means the Chinese market in Antwerp. Another traditional Chinese element is the pairs of stone lions at the gateway. Antwerp Chinatown’s archway was the second Chinatown archway in Europe.

车站外有一片唐人街区。 作为一个中国人,在海外看到这类中国风格的金色牌坊还是略感激动。 大门上的汉字安市华埠也许通安特卫普中国市场之意。 另一个中国传统元素就是门口的一对石狮子。安特卫普的拱门是欧洲的第二座唐人街拱门。

Statue of David Teniers

Antwerp is famous of Flemish arts. The most well-known local painters are David Teniers and Peter Paul Rubens. Their statues in the city square of Antwerp are worshipped by visitors all around the world. Near the train station, the first statue that was seen immediately was the statue of David Teniers. He was a Flemish Baroque painter, born in Antwerp in 1610. He is an innovators of painting and remembered as the leading Flemish genre painter of his day. From this statue, I was walking towards a notable pedestrian street called Meir with many shops and historical sites and started my trip in Antwerp.

安特卫普以佛拉芒艺术而闻名世界。 当地最著名的画家是大卫·特尼尔斯和彼得·保罗·鲁本斯。 他们的雕像自然在安特卫普的城市广场上接收各地游客的膜拜。 火车站附近,第一眼映入眼帘就是大卫·特尼尔斯的雕像。 他是一位佛拉芒巴洛克风格画家,1610 年出生于安特卫普。他是巴洛克绘画的创新者,被世人铭记为引领潮派的佛拉芒流派画家。 从这座雕像出发,我走向一条名为 Meir 的有众多商店和历史遗迹的著名步行街,开启了我的安市之旅。

Paleis op de Meir

The historical city center is just in the west of the train station so it was convenient to visit all the monuments within few hours. The first famous building on this street is called palace in Meir. It is a beautiful rococo palace with three wings around a small courtyard. This building traced back to 18th century is used for reception of important rulers such as Napoleon Bonaparte, Willem I of the Netherlands and it is also used as the Belgian Royal House. Nowadays after so many years, it becomes a museum but when I arrived the museum was closed temporarily.

历史悠久的老城区就坐落于火车站的西边,几个小时以内就可方便地参观所有的古迹。 这条街上第一座著名的建筑叫做梅厄宫(Paleis op de Meir)。 这是一座美丽的洛可可式宫殿,三翼环绕着一个小庭院。 这座建于 18 世纪的建筑曾用于接待拿破仑·波拿巴、荷兰威廉一世等重要统治者,它也被用作比利时王室驻地。 如今时过境迁,它已经摇身一变成为了博物馆,遗憾的是,在我造访之日博物馆暂时关闭了。

Rubenshuis

Another well-known building in the Meir street is this ordinary-looking residential house. When we talked about the painting of Belgium, the painters that we can first remember must be Rubens and Van Dyck. Peter Paul Rubens is definitely the forever pride of this city. His house Rubenshuis not fat away from the royal palace is well preserved. Rubens purchased the house in 1610 and renovated it on the basis of designs by himself. After the renovations, the house had the outlook of an Italian palace, which reflected the unique artistic ideals of Rubens.

Meir街上另一座著名的建筑就是这座平凡无奇的民居。 当我们谈到比利时的绘画,耳熟能详的画家一定是鲁本斯和范戴克。 彼得保罗鲁本斯绝对是这座城市永远的骄傲。 他曾经的居所,离王宫不远保存完好如初。 鲁本斯于 1610 年购买了这座宅院,并在自己设计的基础上对其进行了翻新。 整修后的房子呈现出意大利宫殿般的外观,体现了鲁本斯独特的艺术思路。

Rubens is regarded as the most influential artist of the Flemish Baroque tradition. His Baroque style painting emphasized on movement, color, and sensuality. He ran a big art workshop in Antwerp so he had very close relationship with this city. Most of his works are history painting which are conserved in the reception room of his house. This photo shows his self portrait. From these artworks, you could get the insights into his talent heart even after 400 years.

鲁本斯被认为是佛拉芒巴洛克艺术传统中最具影响力的艺术家。他的巴洛克风格绘画强调运动、色彩和感性。 这位德国画家曾在安特卫普开设了一家大型艺术工作室便和这座城市结下不解之缘。 其大部分作品都是历史画,保存在鲁本斯故居的客厅。 这张照片里展示的是他的自画像。即使400年后你也可以通过他的艺术作品洞察他天才的内心。

Through the entrance of the house, there is a Roman arch of triumph leading to a garden. This is the place where the artist, who acted as the official diplomatic role at the court of the Spanish Netherlands, grew his plants. Rubens designed everything of the house by himself based on Italian Renaissance palace architecture so we can find many elements of renaissance here. As an admirer of Renaissance building, I appreciated his design of Italian style which gave me a similar resonance.

穿过住所入口,一个通向花园的罗马凯旋门赫然出现。 这是这位在西班牙荷兰宫廷担任外交官时期种植花卉的地方。鲁本斯根据意大利文艺复兴时期的宫殿建筑自主设计了这座房子的一切,所以众多文艺复兴元素遍地可寻。 作为文艺复兴建筑的崇拜者,我由衷欣赏他的设计,这种意大利风也会引起我的共鸣。

Rubens created most of his works in this studio in the picture. There are many bas-reliefs and pillars on the façade of the studio. It looks like the palace in the street of Garibaldi in Genova. Outside the studio, it is the garden designed by Rubens based on his painting “Strolling in the Garden” . It’s an oasis of quiet in the bustling city. Rubens planted sunflowers, orange and fig trees in his garden. He could sit down at the window side and watch the shadows of garden in his spare time. After visiting this place, I think Rubens really had an admirable life. He could live in his own world leisurely and enjoyed the life in his own way. If you are interested in Flemish art or his life, Rubens house will definitely be a wonderful place to visit.

鲁本斯在照片中的这个工作室创作了他的大多数作品。 工作室的正立面装饰有许多浅浮雕和廊柱。它看起来就像热那亚加里波第大街上的一座宫殿。画室外,是鲁本斯根据他的画作《漫步花园》设计的小花园。 这里是繁华都市中的一片宁静绿洲。 鲁本斯在他的花园里种植了向日葵、橙树和无花果树,在闲暇之余坐对当窗木,看移三面阴。 参观完他的住所不由得一声感叹,鲁本斯的生活真的很令人羡慕。 他可以自在地活在自己的世界里,以自己的方式享受生活。 如果你对佛拉芒艺术或者这种生活感兴趣,鲁本斯故居绝对是一个值得游览的好地方。

Groenplaats

Rubens is so famous that his bronze statue is placed on the Groenplaats place since 1843. There are numerous bars, cafes and fast food restaurants around this historical square. It is recommended to have a cup of coffee here and stare at the high rising cathedral in the back of the square.

鲁本斯大名享誉世界,他的铜像自 1843 年起就被放置在格罗恩普拉茨广场上。这个历史悠久的广场周围有许多酒吧、咖啡馆和快餐店。推荐在这里喝杯咖啡,遥望广场后面高高耸立的大教堂。

It is weird that Rubens’ figure is depicted as one Roman cavalry instead of a painter. He hold a sword around his waist and wore his iconic wide-brimmed hat and kept a gesture of fighting. There are several Latin words CIVI OLIM SUO – S.P. Q.A. – SUMPTIB. PUBL. ET PRIV. – P. – MDCCCXXXX on the base of the statue. It reminds me of the statues of Roman Emperors.

尤为奇怪的是,鲁本斯的形象被描绘成一位罗马骑士而不是画家。 他戴着标志性的宽檐帽,腰间手握一把剑,保持着战斗姿势。几个拉丁字母 CIVI OLIM SUO – S.P. Q.A. MDCCCXXXX 刻在雕像的底座上,不由得让我想起了罗马皇帝的塑像。

The Cathedral of Our Lady 

In the photo above, it is the most famous church in Antwerp called The Cathedral of Our Lady. The church has a very tall bell tower, up to 123 meters. In Belgium, one of the special view points to be noticed by the travelers is the bell tower (belfry) in the city center. The belfry of this cathedral is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites however when I arrived, it was under restoration and forbidden to visitors.

在上面的照片中,它是安特卫普最著名的教堂,叫做圣母大教堂。 教堂有一座非常高的钟楼,高达123米。 在比利时,游客着重参观的景点就是老城区的钟楼(也叫做belfry)。 这座大教堂的钟楼同时也被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录,但是我再一次乘兴而来,败兴而去,它这天正在修缮中,禁止游客参观。

It took totally 169 years to complete this church, from 1352 to 1521. It is really a miracle to build the highest building in the low countries at that time. It shows the ultimate gothic architecture art in the mean time. Also this church contains the superb Baroque art. Visitors could wander in this artistic mecca and focus on the magnificent large altar paintings by Rubens. On this photo, the painting in the choir above the main altar is called ‘The Assumption of the Virgin’. Rubens has a wonderful master of the colors in this painting.

这座教堂从1352年伊始到1521年,足足用了169年才建成完工。在中世纪就建造出了低地国家最高的建筑绝对是一个奇迹。它同时也展示了高超的哥特式建筑艺术并且包含了精湛的巴洛克绘画艺术。游客徜徉于这片艺术圣地专注欣赏鲁本斯宏伟的大型祭坛画。 这张照片上,主祭坛上方的合唱团中的这幅画被称为“圣母升天”。世人皆惊叹鲁本斯的妙手丹青尤其是其对色彩的把握更是如火纯青。

Don’t forget that this church has an awesome dome. In the palace or church in Europe, the paintings on their ceilings always impress me. In the tower of this church, there is a huge circular painting on the ceiling as well. This beautiful painting’s diameter of 5.8 meters is created by Cornelis Schut. Its name is also ‘The Assumption of the Virgin’. Antwerp Cathedral is dedicated to the mother of Christ – the Virgin Mary so many artworks in the church is related with her. This painting depicts the story of Mary ascending into heaven.

另外这座教堂还有一个令人赞叹的圆顶。在欧洲的宫殿或教堂里,他们天顶上的壁画总会留下深刻的印象。 在这座教堂的塔楼内,天顶上也绘制了一幅巨大的圆形画。 这幅美轮美奂的画作直径 5.8 米,由 Cornelis Schut 创作。 它的名字也是“圣母升天”。 安特卫普大教堂是用于祭拜基督之母——圣母玛利亚,教堂里的许多艺术品自然都与她息息相关。 这幅画描绘了圣母升天的宗教故事。

St. Charles Borromeo Church

Another stylish church in Antwerp is the St. Charles Borromeo Church. This church has a very beautiful façade of Baroque style. Rubens contributed a lot to the decoration and design of the church. It was built between 1615 and 1621 by the Jesuits. There are many small sculpture of Jesus and the saints in the niches on the façade. The emblem of the Jesuits ‘IHS’ etched on a crucifix was at a conspicuous position above the entrance. ‘IHS’ is called a ‘Christogram’ and is an ancient way of writing the word ‘Jesus Christ’. This emblem hold by angels was designed Rubens.

安特卫普另一座别具风格的教堂是圣查尔斯博罗梅奥教堂。 这座教堂拥有非常漂亮的巴洛克风格外观。 鲁本斯对教堂的装饰和设计贡献良多。 它由耶稣会士于 1615 年至 1621 年间建造。 正面的壁龛中有许多耶稣和圣徒的小雕塑。 耶稣受难像上雕刻的耶稣会会徽“IHS”位于入口上方的显眼位置。 “IHS”被称为“基督象征”,是一种古老的书写“耶稣基督”这个词的方式。 这个天使环抱的标志是由鲁本斯设计。

Rubens has designed the altar surrounded by black marble as well. There is a pulley system to hang religious paintings on the altar. The Antwerp Jesuits used this system to change paintings periodically. Nowadays the paintings will be changed on important days like Easter Monday and the Feast of the Assumption.

鲁本斯同时还设计了黑色大理石环绕的祭坛。有一个滑轮系统可以将宗教画挂在祭坛上。 安特卫普耶稣会士使用这个系统定期更换画作。 如今,这些画将在复活节星期一和圣母升天节等重要节日进行更换。

The Hendrik Conscience Heritage Library 

Behind the St. Charles Borromeo Church, there is a building with Dutch letters ‘stadsbibliotheek’. Many European languages are similar so I could roughly guess out the function of this building is city library. It is named after the Flemish writer Hendrik Conscience and the statue in this photo is him. Visitors could walk in freely and find out Antwerp’s history. Here there are more than 1 million collections of books about Dutch literature and the cultural history of Flanders.

在圣查尔斯博罗梅奥教堂后面,有一栋带有荷兰字母“stadsbibliotheek”的建筑。 众多欧洲语言都是如此相似,所以我可以大致猜出这座建筑的功能是城市图书馆。 它以佛兰德作家亨德里克命名,这张照片中的雕像就是此公。 游客可以自由进出了解安特卫普的历史。 这里有超过100万册关于荷兰文学和法兰德地区文化史的书籍。

The city center of Antwerp is steeped in history. In Belgium, another special viewpoint to be noticed by visitors is the triangle roof house in the grand squares. These old houses are the guild houses in medieval times. They are used by guilds for meetings historically. The Low Countries used to have guildhalls in every city, like Brussel, Antwerp, and Ghent.

安特卫普老城区历史悠久。 在比利时,另一个值得游客驻足回首的便是是大广场上的三角形顶房屋。 这些老房子属于中世纪的商贸公会。 历史上它们被公会用于会议。低地国家曾经在每个城市都设有公会大厅,比如布鲁塞尔、安特卫普和根特。

Grote Markt

If you want to look for the remnant of the sealed history, please move to the guild houses of Sint-Joris and de Valk that can be found in the Grote Market. It is a big square situated in the heart of the city quarter near the Scheldt river. It means Great Market Square. Historically many English merchants would come here and do business with merchants from the Hanseatic cities in north Germany. From the end of the fifteenth century, Antwerp overtook Bruges as the most prominent city of the Low Countries. This square is the most representative place of Antwerp. The city hall of Antwerp is located in this square.

若要追寻那段尘封的往事,请移步Grote Market广场上的Sint-Joris 和 de Valk 的公会之家。 这里是一个宽阔的大广场,位于斯海尔德河附近的老城区。Grote Market意思是大市场。 历史上,许多英国商人来这里与德国北部汉萨同盟城市的商人做生意。 从十五世纪末开始,安特卫普取代布鲁日成为低地国家最出名的城市。 这个广场也是安特卫普最具代表性的地方。 安特卫普市政厅就坐落在这个广场上。

Brabo Fountain

In the center of square, there is a bronze statue of a man throwing a huge severed hand. The statue was designed by the Belgian sculptor Jef Lambeaux and inaugurated in 1887. This statue is tribute to the great soldier Silvius Brabo. According to legend, there was a giant who built a fortress along the Scheldt River. The giant forced passing boats to pay a toll, If the travelers refused, the giant would cut off one of their hands and tossed it into the river. When Brabo arrived, he dueled with the giant bravely and chopped off the giant’s hand, which he threw into the river just like the giant once did. The name of the city ‘Antwerpen’ in Flemish also means ‘hand throwing’.

广场中央,有一尊男子投掷巨大断手的铜像。 该雕像由比利时雕塑家 Jef Lambeaux 设计,于 1887 年落成。这座雕像纪念伟大的士兵布拉博 。相传,有一位巨人在斯海尔德河沿岸建造了一座堡垒。 巨人强迫过往的船只支付过路费,如果旅行者拒绝,巨人就会砍掉他们的一只手,然后把它扔进河里。 当布拉博路过时,他勇敢地与巨人决斗并斩断了巨人的手,就像它一样,将手扔进了河里。“安特卫普”这个名称在佛拉芒语中也有“投掷手臂”的意思。

Het Steen

When tourists continue walking towards west, there is a castle standing at the riverside of Scheldt. It was built between 1200 and 1225, which was Antwerp’s oldest building. At that period, Antwerp belongs to county of Flanders, which was subordinate to the king of France. The name Het Steen in Dutch stands for ‘The Rock’. In history, Het Steen became the museum of archeology and maritime history as well. At the entrance, there is a bas-relief of Semini, above the archway. Semini is the Scandinavian God of youth and fertility. In medieval time, people have realized the importance of fertility. More population means stronger strength for one country.

当游客继续一路向西,有一座城堡矗立在斯海尔德河畔。 它建于 1200 年至 1225 年之间,是安特卫普最古老的建筑。 曾几何时,安特卫普属于法兰德斯郡,隶属于法兰西国王。 它的名字Het Steen 在荷兰语中代表“岩石”。 在历史上,Het Steen 城堡也成为了考古和海洋历史博物馆。 在入口处,拱门上方是塞米尼的浅浮雕。 塞米尼是斯堪的纳维亚神话里的青春和生育之神。在中世纪,人们已经意识到生育的重要性。人口越多,国家实力越强。

Museum aan de Stroom

The museum of archeology and maritime history was moved to this building in the recent years. The Museum aan de Stroom was open in 2011. It was obvious a modern building which looked totally different compared to the old buildings in the city center. This postmodern Art Deco building was made of Indian red sandstone and curved glass panel. It collects mostly the maritime documents of international trade and shipping, art and culture work of the port of Antwerp.

近年来,考古和海洋历史博物馆搬到了途中这座建筑。 Museum aan de Stroom 博物馆于 2011 年开放。很明显,与市中心的古老建筑相比,这是一座完全迥异的现代风格的建筑。 这座后现代装饰艺术风格的建筑由印度红砂岩和弧形玻璃面板制成。 它主要收集了安特卫普港的国际贸易和航运、艺术和文化的海事文件。

When I arrived at the port of Antwerp, I was far away from the historical city center and there is nothing more special to mention. Antwerp is linked to the North Sea through the River Scheldt so it is one of the most important port in the world, second largest port in Europe. It is a quite influential city and is famous of diamond industry as well. For tourists who are interested in diamond, they can visit the diamond district in Antwerp.

到达安特卫普港时,距离历史悠久的老城区已经相距甚远,没有什么特别的景点值得一提的。 安特卫普通过斯海尔德河与北海相连,因此它是世界上最重要的港口之一,也是欧洲第二大港口。 它是一个颇具影响力的城市,钻石业独步天下。 如果对钻石感兴趣的游客可以去安特卫普的钻石区游览片刻。

However for me I just enjoyed a pleasant half day in the city area which was good enough. If people asked me about this city, I would tell them excitedly that in one summer morning, I have visited the house where Rubens had lived and walked through the alleys with many towers and the medieval court yards. Of course, no matter what happens, travel in a good mood is always the most important because the golden year does not come again and it is difficult to return to the morning of yesterday.

然而对我而言,我只是在老城区度过了悠然自得的半天,这已经足够了。 如果有人向我提及这座城市,我会兴奋地讲述,在一个美好的夏日清晨,我徘徊于鲁本斯的住处,穿行于塔楼遍布的深院小巷。 当然,无论发生什么,带着好心情去旅行永远是最重要的。毕竟盛年不重来,一日难再晨。

[ The end ]

【完】

The brilliant summer of Ghent

根特的璀璨夏日

Colors of the wind

Time has passed fast. This is my first blog in the new year of 2022.Now due to the spreading of covid-19, I have to stay in Singapore but I always miss my trips in the last two years. During my graduation trip in 2020, I have visited many fairy-tale cities in Europe. Ghent is one attractive, ancient and splendid city in north Belgium which is a tale of the Flemish Region. It owns numerous medieval buildings that are now still well preserved and restored. The belfry and town hall, were listed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites in 1999. Its name derives from Ganda, the Celtic word which means ‘confluence’.

时光荏苒,岁月如梭。转眼到了2022年,这是我在新年的第一篇博客。目前由于 covid-19新冠的肆虐,我不得不苟且在新加坡,但我总是心念过去两年的旅行。 尤其是2020年的毕业旅行,我曾踏足欧洲众多童话般的城市。 根特就是比利时北部一座迷人、古老而充满活力的城市。ta记录了佛兰德地区的历史并拥有许多中世纪建筑,时至今日仍然保存完好。 古城的钟楼和市政厅于 1999 年被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。根特的名字来源于凯尔特语甘达,意思是“汇合”。

River  Leie

I took the train from Antwerp and got off at the station Gent-Dampoort which was the nearest station to the city area. Illuminated by the warm sunlight of September, the River Leie reflected the silhouette of the colorful houses arranged orderly along the river side. This is my first glimpse of this ancient city. I will say I would love it at the first sight. In the first half of the 20th century, this section of riverside was known as a favorite place for numerous painters.

我从安特卫普乘火车,在距离市区最近的车站 Gent-Dampoort 下车。 在九月暖阳的照耀下,Leie河倒映着沿岸排列整齐的五颜六色房屋的轮廓。 这是我与这座古城的首次邂逅,确实令我一见倾心。在20世纪上半叶,这一段河边盛景也是无数画家的最爱取景之地。

Geeraard de Duivelsteen

It is a pleasure to walk along the Scheldt and Leie Canals that surround the city center. The handrails on the river bank are decorated with beautiful flowers. The high rising ancient steeple-roofed castles just stand in the other side of water silently. This castle named Geeraard de Duivelsteen was built in the 13th century and was named after the knight Geeraard Vilain. It served as defense of the city’s port for hundreds years.

沿着环绕老城区的Scheldt和Leie运河漫步是一种享受。河岸上的栏杆上装饰着灿烂的花朵。 高高耸立的古老尖顶城堡静静地矗立在河的彼岸。 这座名为 Geeraard de Duivelsteen 的城堡建于 13 世纪,以骑士 Geeraard Vilain 的名字命名。 它曾作为城市港口的防御工事而存在几百年。

This castle has a grim and intimidating appearance. Through the centuries in the medieval time, it has been used as an arsenal, a monastery, and a bishop’s seminary. In 1623, it became a madhouse for the mentally ill people. This anecdote creates a quaint and eccentric atmosphere to this building with name of devil (Duivelsteen in Dutch means devil).

这座城堡有着冷峻而令人生畏的外观。 在中世纪过去的几个百年,它一直被用作武器库、修道院和主教的神学院。 1623年后,这里成为精神病患者的疗养院。 这些成年轶事也为这座名为恶魔的建筑营造了一种光怪陆离的氛围。

Statue of Lieven Bauwens

During my trip in Europe, I was always interested in the statues of celebrity because they usually represent one brilliant piece of story of the city. At the end of the canal, there was a bronze statue of Lieven Bauwens. He was a Belgian entrepreneur and industrial spy who brought a spinning mule and skilled workers to Belgium during the booming industrial revolution. He was largely respected by the Flanders because he started textile plants in Ghent in 1800 and promoted the textile industry in the area.

在欧洲旅行期间,我一直对名人雕像特别留意,因为它们通常代表了这座城市的时代剪影。 在运河的尽头,有一尊列文·鲍文斯的铜像。 他是一位比利时企业家和商业间谍,在风起云涌的工业革命时代他曾将纺纱骡子技术和纺织技术工人带到比利时。 由于 1800 年他在根特开设了纺织厂,并促进了该地区的纺织工业,他也特别受到佛兰德斯人的拥戴。

The Saint Bavo Cathedral 

Most medieval buildings concentrate in the city center. Among them, the tallest is this Saint Bavo Cathedral. The construction of the Gothic church began around 1274. It has two high spires with height up to 89 meters. We can find the two interesting posters on the wall of entrance, stating: Lam gods is here. Van Eyck is here. The cathedral is noted for the famous religious art piece Ghent Altarpiece created by Hubert and Jan van Eyck. It is also called The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.

大多数中世纪建筑集中在市中心的老城区。 其中,最高的就是圣巴沃大教堂。 这座哥特式教堂的建造始于 1274 年左右。它有两个直达云霄尖顶,最高可达 89 米。 在教堂入口的墙上我发现了两张有趣的海报,上面写着:神的羔羊在此。 范艾克在此。 这座大教堂以休伯特和扬·范·艾克创作的著名宗教艺术作品《根特祭坛画》而闻名。 它也被称为神秘羔羊的崇拜。

The Ghent Altarpiece 

In Flanders area, Dutch is the most language used. The Ghent Altarpiece is called Het Lam Gods in Dutch. The famous Flemish painters and brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck completed this masterpiece in 1432. It consists of twelve interior panels which measures 5.2m x 3.75 m. It depicts the scenes of the God flanked by the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. The central panel of the lower shows a religious ceremony of an adoration of the Lamb. Lamb of god is a title for Jesus that appears in the Gospel of John. In that part, John the Baptist sees Jesus and exclaims, “Behold the Lamb of God who takes away the sin of the world. So it is why the art piece is called Lamb Gods.

在佛兰德地区,荷兰语是使用最多的语言。 根特祭坛画在荷兰语中被称为 Het Lam Gods(就是海报里的Lam Gods)。 著名的佛兰德画家休伯特和扬·范·艾克兄弟于1432 年完成了这幅杰作。它由 12 个内部面板组成,尺寸为 5.2 米 x 3.75 米。 它描绘了上帝,和两侧的圣母玛利亚和施洗约翰。 下部的中央面板显示了崇拜羔羊的宗教仪式。 神的羔羊是约翰福音书中的对耶稣的称呼。 在那个章节,施洗约翰看到耶稣并感叹道:“看,神的羔羊,除去了世人的罪孽。这就是为什么这件艺术品被称为神的羔羊。

The Belfry

There are three medieval towers overlooking the old city center. Another extremely tall building is the belfry of Ghent. It is the symbol of the city, memorizing the city’s independence. In north France and Belgium, there are numerous bell towers with the similar style. They represent the architecture arts of Flanders and Wallonia under the influence of the former County of Flanders. The construction of the tower began in 1313. There is a gilded dragon installed at the top of the building in 1377. At medieval time, the ringing bell was to remind the citizens of Ghent of enemy or a battle won.

根特有三座中世纪塔楼可以俯瞰老城区。 另一座高耸入云的建筑就是根特钟楼。它是根特标志性建筑,以纪念城市的独立。 在法国北部和比利时,有许多类似风格的钟楼。 它们代表了受前佛兰德公国影响的佛兰德和瓦隆的建筑艺术。钟塔的建造始于 1313 年, 并于1377 年在建筑物的顶部安装了一条镀金的龙。在中世纪,钟声长鸣是为了提醒根特的公民有敌人入侵或战斗胜利。

Sint-Baafsplein

Now I was standing in the square of Sint-Baafsplein which was the heart of the city. In Europe, square is always the cultural and historical place for leisure and assembly. From this square, visitors could sit at the terrace of cafeteria and look up at the top of the bell tower. This is very popular place for tourists. There are some small shops selling postcard around the square. The gothic building adjoining the belfry is the Cloth Hall. It used to be the meeting place of the wool and cloth traders. It is really an amazing experience to sit in the square under the warm sun light peacefully and keep my eyes on the flowing fountain and the roaring trams passing by.

此刻我站在市中心的圣巴夫广场上。 在欧洲,广场一直是休闲和集会的文化和历史场所。 从这个广场上,游客可以坐在餐厅的露台上,仰望钟楼的顶部。 它是非常受游客欢迎的地方。 广场周围有一些卖明信片的小店。 毗邻钟楼的哥特式建筑是织物馆。这里曾经是棉毛商人的交易地。 在温暖的阳光下安然坐在广场上,注视着面前流淌的喷泉和轰鸣经过的有轨电车,真是一种奇妙的体验。

NTGent and Miryzaal

Under the belfry’s shade, the tourists could have a drink in front of the Gent theatre. Its façade contains some beautiful sculptures in the niche and some colorful frescos. The theatre NTGent is the home of the Royal Dutch Theatre. It is the ideal place for the classic music lover. In the center of the square, the fountain with the statue of Jan-Frans Willems is just in front of the theatre. As a cofounder of the Flemish Movement, Jan-Frans Willems opposed the government’s language policy in favor of the French-speaking people.

在钟楼的阴影下,游客们可以在根特剧院前小酌一杯。 它的正立面含有一些壁龛中美丽的雕塑和色彩缤纷的壁画。根特剧院是荷兰皇家剧院的所在地。 是古典音乐爱好者的理想去处。 在广场的中心,装饰着扬-弗兰斯·威廉斯雕像的喷泉伫立在剧院的前面。 作为佛兰芒语运动的联合创始人,扬-弗兰斯·威廉斯一直反对政府的有利于法语群体的语言政策。

Town Hall (Stadhuis)

I enjoyed relaxingly walking around the city center with so many old buildings in this cozy afternoon. Without notice, I passed by their city hall where parked many bicycles. It is one historical monument of the city and reflects the brilliant history and evolution of the city starting from the late 15th century until present. It combines many architectural styles like Gothic ornaments and Renaissance design elements. It has a unique rooftop with many triangle windows. The city hall is indeed an impressive building but my attention was drawn by the man blowing bubbles. In the small cities in Europe, I could always see some people playing instruments leisurely or having fun in the street. The rhythm of carefree life style in these cities is totally different compared with the metropolis that I have lived.

在这个舒适的下午,在如此多古老建筑环绕的市中心漫步真是令人愉悦的放松。 不经意之间经过了根特的市政厅,那里停着许多自行车。 市政厅是这座城市的历史古迹之一,反映了这座城市从 15 世纪末到现在的辉煌历史和演变。 它结合了各异的建筑风格,如哥特式装饰和文艺复兴时期的设计元素。 市政厅有一个独特的屋顶以及许多三角形窗户确实令人印象深刻,但我的注意力却被被那个吹泡泡的艺人所吸引。 在欧洲的小城市里,我总能看到一些人悠闲地弹奏乐器,或者在街上玩耍。这种悠闲的生活节奏和我一直住过的大都市截然不同。

Sint-Michielsbrug

Next I followed the track of tram and stepped on this arch stone bridge. I had to say that this city always gave me infinite surprise. Along the river bank, there was an amazing view close to the fairy-tale world that I always imagined in my mind. From the Saint Michael’s Bridge, I could see many stylish houses, the Ghent’s iconic bell tower and the massive Gothic church.

接着我沿着电车的轨道,踏上了这座拱形石桥。 不得不说,这座城市总是给我无限惊喜。 河岸两边,一直在我脑海中浮想联翩的童话世界在我眼前栩栩展开。 从圣迈克尔桥上,众多极具特色的小房子,根特标志性的钟楼和巨大的哥特式教堂映入我的眼帘。

 Saint Michael’s Church

The history of this magnificent church called Saint Michael could be traced to 11st century. The construction of the current Gothic church started from 1440. Due to a series of delays and fund deficiency, the tower could not be finished. Until 1828, a flat roof was built over the unfinished tower. The church includes many paintings by Baroque artists like van Dyck. It was located at the west of the Saint Michael’s Bridge. Many boats passed through the bridge and arrived at the famous Graslei.

这座宏伟的圣迈克尔教堂的历史可以追溯到 11 世纪。 如今的哥特式教堂的始建于1440年。由于一系列的延误和经费不足,最终塔楼始终无法完工。 到 1828 年,最后在未完工的塔楼上建造了一个平顶。 这间教堂里有许多巴洛克艺术家如著名的范戴克的画作。 它位于圣迈克尔桥的西边。 许多小船经过此桥,抵达了著名的格拉斯莱码头。

Graslei

The most iconic view of Ghent must be the Graslei which is always displayed on postcard. Graslei is a vibrant quay in the right bank of river Leie. It’s a medieval port which history dated back to fifth century when Ghent was the center of the wheat trade in the County of Flanders. It is a well known landscape of the well preserved medieval houses with stepped gable and cafeteria. Most local people prefer to relax at the riverbank, dangling their legs over the quay comfortably and bask themselves in the pleasant sunlight. It is definitely a romantic experience to sit down here with the lover appreciating every detail of the city, isn’t it?

根特最具标志性的景观一定是在明信片上反复出现的格拉斯莱。 格拉斯莱(Graslei)是一个充满活力的码头,位于 Leie 河的右岸。 这是一个古老的港口,它的历史可以追溯到五世纪,当时根特是佛兰德郡小麦贸易的中心。 这一片区域是中世纪保存完好的阶梯式山墙房屋的著名景点。众多当地百姓也喜欢在两岸放松身心,双腿舒适地悬搭在码头岸上,沐浴在宜人的阳光下。坐在这里和挚爱欣赏城市的每一个细节绝对是一种浪漫的体验。

It is recommended to take a boat trip from the Graslei. Along the Leie River, you must admire the Flemish Renaissance buildings at the banks. Most of them are the guild houses in the medieval times. The canal in Ghent is not so long compared to the Grand canal in Venice so the boat trip usually takes just 40 minutes.

非常推荐从格拉斯莱乘船游览根特。 沿着Leie河便可欣赏河岸边的佛兰芒文艺复兴时期的建筑。 其中大部分是中世纪的商会房屋。 与威尼斯的大运河相比,根特的运河并不长,因此乘船游览通常只需 40 分钟。

Grasbrug

In the north of Graslei, there is a little bridge called Grasbrug. It’s an intersection of waterway here. Visitor could stand on the bridge at dusk and take the pictures of the appealing façade of the buildings along the Graslei. You could totally immerse yourself in this poetic ambiance of the misty scene.

在格拉斯莱以北,有一座小桥叫格拉斯布鲁格。 这里是水路的交汇处。 黄昏时分,游客站立桥头,纷纷拍下格拉斯莱沿岸迷人景色。 水光潋滟,景色空濛,人们完全沉浸在根特的诗情画意中。

Gravensteen

Following the babbling river, next I stopped in front of one castle built at the river side. At its top I could find the yellow dragon flag of the Flanders county. The Gravensteen which means Castle of the Counts was a medieval castle dating from 1180. It was a unique castle with the style of Syrian crusader. It was the residence of the Counts of Flanders until 1353 and subsequently converted to prison and cotton factory. It is now a museum. The castle is fortified by an oval-shaped enceinte with 24 small round watch towers.

顺着潺潺的河流,接下来我驻足在河边的一座城堡前。 它的顶部,佛兰德公国的黄龙旗清晰可见。 Gravensteen 意为伯爵城堡,是一座建于 1180 年的中世纪城堡。这是一座独特的叙利亚十字军风格的城堡。 1353 年之前它一直是佛兰德伯爵的住所,随后被改建为监狱和棉花工厂。 它如今是一个博物馆。 城堡由一个带有 24 个小圆形瞭望塔的椭圆形 城廓加固而成。

Sint-Veerleplein square

The castle overlooks this small square called Sint-Veerleplein. This square was a marketplace but also the site of executions and burnings of the victims of the Inquisition in the medieval time. Now visitors could have a rest in the cafés and taste the pancakes here. The architecture of the surrounding is quite exceptional.

城堡俯瞰着这个名为 Sint-Veerleplein 的小广场。 这个广场曾经是一个市场,也是中世纪宗教裁判所处决和焚烧受害者的地方。 游客可以在咖啡馆休息,品尝这里的煎饼。 广场四周的建筑非常独特。

Vismarkt

Everyone will no doubt notice this extraordinary building with Neptune sculpture. It is the old fish market, built in 1689. The two reliefs at the gateway depict allegorically the two main rivers in the city, Scheldt (male) and Leie (female). In the city’s history, fishmongers sold their goods here. The old Ghent people seem to be reminiscent of their passes. The poster at the gate is an advertisement in Dutch saying: Toch zomerbar oude vismijn which means still the summer bar, the old fish market.

大家无疑都会注意到这座装饰有海王雕塑的神奇建筑。 这其实是旧鱼市,建于1689年。门口的两幅浮雕寓意着城市中的两条主要河流,Scheldt和Leie。 在根特的历史上,鱼贩在这里出售他们的商品。老根特人似乎很怀旧, 门口赫然可见的是荷兰语的广告:Toch zomerbar oude vimijn,意思是这里是夏日酒吧,曾经的老鱼市。

Kraanlei

Kraanlei is a riverbank at where the fish market is located. It took its name from a wooden crane (kraan). In the 16th century, it was used for unloading barges. At that time, the region of Flanders is one of the most prosperous in Europe. There are frequent commerce in the riverbank. Ghent is also called Mediaeval Manhattan during that period.

Kraanlei是鱼市所在的河岸。 它的名字来自木制起重机(荷兰语:kraan)。 在 16 世纪,这里是被用于卸载驳船的地方。 当时,佛兰德地区是欧洲最繁华的地区之一。 沿河商业频繁。 在那个时期,根特也被称为中世纪的曼哈顿。

At Kranlei, there are two stylish baroque houses ‘The Flute Player’ and  ‘the Seven Works of Mercy’. The two fresco decorated houses stand with each other. There is a red relief of flute player at the top of the gable of the house at right. For the house at left, only six paintings are created on the façade. They represent 7 compassionate acts in Catholic belief. It is said that since this was originally an inn, the fourth work (hosting the strangers) was done in the building itself.

在 Kranlei,有两个别具一格的巴洛克风格房屋“长笛演奏家”和“七种慈善”。 两座壁画装饰的房屋互相倚靠。 右侧房屋山墙顶部有吹笛者的红色浮雕。 左侧的房子,只在立面上创作了六幅画。 它们代表了天主教信仰中的 7 种慈善的行为。 据说由于这里原本是客栈,所以第四项慈善行为(收容陌生人)对应的就是这座建筑本身。

Vrijdagmarkt 

Next I arrived at a large square which is not far away from the Kraanlei. Every Friday morning the square is filled with market stalls. It is a local tradition dating back to 1199 so this square is called Vrijdagmarkt which means Friday market in Dutch. In the center of square, it is the statue of Jacob van Artevelde. He was a Flemish statesman and political leader, known as The Wise Man and the Brewer of Ghent during the Hundred Years’ War. He was remembered due to his exploit of revitalizing the trade and industry of Ghent.

接下来我来到了离Kranlei不远的一个大广场。 每个星期五早上,广场上都挤满了熙熙攘攘的摊位。 这是一个上至1199 年的当地传统,因此这个广场被称为 Vrijdagmarkt,在荷兰语中意为周五市场。 广场中央是雅各布·范·阿特维尔德的雕像。 他是一位佛兰德政治家和政治领袖,在百年战争期间被称为“智者”和“根特缔造者”。 他因振兴根特的贸易和工业而被人们铭记。

St James Church

In Europe there is a pilgrims’ way leading to the shrine of the apostle Saint James in Santiago de Compostella, Spain. There are many churches dedicated to St James in different countries. They become meeting places for local residents and pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella. This Saint James church in Ghent is one of them which history could be traced back to 11th century. This church contains many Baroque elements and art. It locates near the Vrijdagmarkt.

在欧洲,有一条通往西班牙圣地亚哥孔波斯特拉的使徒圣詹姆神殿的朝圣之路。 在不同的国家有许多纪念圣詹姆的教堂。 它们成为当地居民和朝圣者前往圣地亚哥德孔波斯特拉中途的聚会场所。 根特的这座圣詹姆教堂就是其中之一,其历史可以追溯到 11 世纪。 这座教堂包含许多巴洛克元素和艺术。 它位于 Vrijdagmarkt 附近。

King Albert Park

Except the old buildings, city parks in Ghent worth a visit as well. Most parks are in the south of the city. The King Albert Park was a neo-baroque park built on the former Gent-Zuid train station in 1930. After the death of King Albert I, it was officially called King Albert Park. In the center of square, it is the War memorial.

除了古老的建筑,根特的城市公园也值得一游。 大多数公园都位于城市的南部。 阿尔伯特国王公园是一座新巴洛克风格的公园,于1930年在原根特南火车站建立。阿尔伯特一世国王去世后,他被正式称为阿尔伯特国王公园。 广场中央是战争纪念碑。

The Citadelpark

The last place I visited in Ghent is this Citadelpark which is extremely near the Gent-Sint-Pieters station. At the last moment, I just sat here cozily and waited for the arrival of the train. I enjoyed its relaxing environment, the white swans swimming in the lake and the doves pecking on the green grass. Ghent is not a well-known travel place but it has its unique charm and elegance that deserves to be explored by travelers. Even today I still immerse myself in the memory of this city full of aesthetic feeling. There is no need to look for its beauty specifically. Its pulchritude exists in every corner of the city.

我在根特参观的最后一个景点就是这个城堡公园,它非常靠近圣彼得火车站。 最后时刻,我唯有安逸地坐在这里,等待火车的到来。 这里放松的环境,湖中自在嬉耍的白天鹅和啄食绿草的鸽子令我赞叹不已。 根特并不是一个知名的旅游胜地,但它有着独特的优雅和魅力,值得旅行者去一探究竟。 时至今日,我仍然沉浸在对这座充满美感的城市的美好回忆中。 无需特意追寻它的美, 它的动人存在于城市里的每一个角落。

La mer de Collioure

科利乌尔之海

La mer

Au sud de France, le rivage méditerranéen des Pyrénées dans la région Occitanie est célébré pour les criques rocheuses, les charmants ports de pêche et la mer calme. La Côte Vermeille est le nom de cette zone prolongeant de la plage du Racou jusqu’à la frontière espagnole Port-Bou. Près de la frontière espagnole se trouve un petite village avec le paysage pittoresque qui s’appelle Collioure.

在法国南部,位于奥克西塔尼地区的比利牛斯山脉的地中海沿岸以岩石海湾、迷人的渔港和平静的海面而闻名。维尔梅伊海岸是该地区的统称,它从拉库海滩一直延伸到西班牙边境波港。靠近西班牙边境有一个风景如画的小村庄,名叫科利乌尔。

Le train TER entre Perpignan et Port-Bou dessert la petite station de Collioure. La signalétique de la station est marquée de deux langue Français et Catalan parce que le village est extrêmement proche de Catalogne.

佩皮尼昂和波港之间的 TER 列车在科利乌尔的小车站停靠。因为该村距离加泰罗尼亚地区非常接近,车站的指示牌上便标有法语和加泰罗尼亚语两种语言。

Le style architecture catalan se caractérise par un équilibre entre excentricité et élégance.Les maisons Collioure au bord de la mer sont multicolores. Les murs anciennes des maisons sont en pierre, en adobe, en ciment ou chaux. La hauteur de ces maisons ne dépasse pas quatre étages. Les toits des maisons sont voûtés et en briques de couleurs vives.

加泰罗尼亚建筑风格追求新奇和典雅之间的平衡。海岸边的科利乌尔房屋五彩缤纷。房屋古老的墙壁由石头、水泥以及石灰制成。这些房子的高度统一不超过四层。屋顶是拱形的,用颜色鲜艳的砖砌成。

Quand je flânais dans les rues pavées d’ardoise, j’appréciais les plantes en pot devants les maisons. La façade multicolore et la porte en bois rustique sont les premiers éléments que je découvrais. C’est une culture français de cultiver quelques plantes devant les maisons. Des fleurs et les plantes grimpants sur les murs contribuent à améliorer le cadre de vie. Les bégonias et abélies à grandes fleurs plantés dans les pots sont les plantations faciles à vivre. Le long des rues de Collioure, les fleurs odorantes m’a dit ‘bonjour!’.

我漫步在青石板铺成的街道上,欣赏着民居前的盆栽植物。彩色的外墙和质朴的木门是我的第一眼所见。屋前种植几株植物是法国的异域文化。花卉和墙壁上的攀缘植物有助于提升生活品质。盆栽秋海棠和六道木都是容易生长的盆栽。沿着科利乌尔的街道,这些盛开芬芳的花朵在向我作揖称好。

Collioure est un village paisible, baigné par la Méditerranée. J’ai passé une bonne journée paisible au soleil chaud au printemps de 2020 ici. Il y a une digue de protection étendue autour du port pour le protéger de la marée montante. Derrière moi, c’était la symbole du village – l’église Notre-Dame-des-Anges. Au lointain, c’était la chapelle Saint-Vincent. Les deux bâtiments sont au nord du port.

科利乌尔是一个沐浴在地中海畔安静祥和的村庄。 2020 年春季一日,温暖的阳光下我在这里度过了美好而平静的一天。港口周围有一个延伸的防波堤保护它免受涨潮的影响。我这张照片的身后就是这个村庄的标志性建筑——天使圣母教堂。远处的另一个建筑是圣文森特教堂。这两座建筑物位均于港口的北部。

L’église Notre-Dame-des-Anges

L’église Notre-Dame-des-Anges a été construite entre 1684 et 1691. L’ancien phare de l’époque médiévale est transformé en clocher. La vue de l’église depuis le plage de pécheur était fantastique. J’aime la mer cristalline qui reflète vaguement la silhouette du clocher d’une coupole. Le plage était semé des galets poli par les vagues sous le soleil de la Méditerranée. Je me détendais en regardant silencieusement les changements de marée sur la plage. La vie est aussi comme ça. Shakespeare a écrit qu’il y a une marée dans les affaires des hommes.

天使圣母教堂建于 1684 年至 1691 年之间。中世纪的古老灯塔如今已被改造成钟楼。从渔人海滩遥望教堂的景色美轮美奂。我尤其喜欢它那水晶般清澈的大海,反衬出圆顶钟楼轮廓的依稀倒影。在地中海的阳光下,海滩上散落着被潮汐打磨的鹅卵石。我静静地注视着海滩上大浪淘沙,觉得异常放松。其实生活也是如此,就像莎士比亚写道,人生就如同潮起潮落。

La chapelle Saint-Vincent

Selon la légende locale, Saint Vincent est un saint martyr du IVe siècle. Il est devenu le saint patron de Collioure. On a dit que ses reliques se trouvent à Collioure. La petite chapelle a été construite en 1701 pour abriter les reliques. La chapelle Saint Vincent se situe à l’extrémité du cap de Collioure. Une grande croix de bois portant un Christ martyr se tourne vers la mer. Les touristes peuvent la visiter par le chemin sur la digue.

按照当地传说,圣文森特是公元 4 世纪时期的殉道者。他后来成为科利乌尔的守护神。据说他的遗骸就遗落在科利乌尔。这座小巧的教堂建于 1701 年,用于存放传说中的遗骸。圣文森特教堂位于科利乌尔海角的尽头。一个巨大的木制十字架上刻有一个基督殉道者,面朝大海,游客可以从海堤的小径上参观这座教堂。

Le port de Collioure

Le port de Collioure est spécialisé dans la pêche des poissons par exemple sardines, thons, et anchois. Les petites barques rapportent les anchois fraîchement pêchés du mois de mai au mois d’octobre. Les poissons attirent aussi les mouettes tournant à la plage. Au bord du port, j’écoutais le vacarme des mouettes et le souffle de la mer. De l’autre côté, les villas et les forts sur la montagne s’étirent le long de l’ondulation de l’eau vive. Quel charmant paysage!

科利乌尔港专门捕捞各种鱼类,比如沙丁鱼、金枪鱼和凤尾鱼。众多捕鱼船从 5 月到 10 月期间收获大量新鲜捕获的凤尾鱼。这些鱼也会吸引在海滩上盘旋的海鸥们的注意。在港湾边,我聆听着海鸥的喧闹和大海的呼唤;港口对岸,山上的别墅和堡垒沿着活水的涟漪如同画卷一般铺展开来。这是多么迷人的风景啊!

L’anchois de Collioure mariné est une cuisine locale. L’anchois cuit dans la saumure et vinaigre excite l’appétit et facilite la digestion. Sur le plage de pécheur se trouvent quelque restaurants. Les touristes peuvent goûter l’anchois ici. C’est un bon site de regarder le paysage ensoleillé au printemps face à la mer.

腌制科利尤尔凤尾鱼是当地美食。用盐水和醋烹制的凤尾鱼可刺激食欲并帮助消化。渔人海滩上有几家餐馆。游客可以在这里品尝这些鱼类。这里也是是观赏风景的绝佳场所,面朝大海,春暖花开。

Le château royal

Le château de Collioure est un monument historique important du village. Il est un point stratégique à l’époque Wisigothique. L’ensemble architectural visible a été érigé à partir du XIIIe siècle. Collioure est sous le règne de la monarchie espagnole après l’alliance de Aragon et Castille mais il est occupée de 1475 à 1481 par le roi de France Louis XI. Son propriétaire a changé à plusieurs reprises donc le style de construction n’est pas fixe.

科利乌尔城堡是该村重要的历史古迹。这是西哥特时代的战略要地。如今可见的建筑群建于 13 世纪。当阿拉贡王国和卡斯蒂利亚王国结姻后,科利乌尔便处于西班牙君主的统治之下,但从 1475 年到 1481 年期间被法国国王路易十一占领。它几经易手,所以建筑风格迥异。

Le château se situe sur une pointe de terre au sud du port qui s’avance dans la mer. Il est une site touristique populaire en été. Les grands remparts et douves sont bien conservé. Il mérite une randonnée dans le château pour connaitre l’histoire intéressante à l’époque médiévale.

这座城堡坐落在港口以南的一块伸向大海的岬上。它是夏季的热门旅游景点。高大的城墙和护城河如今保存完好。非常值得在城堡内部徒步旅行,同时了解中世纪有趣的历史。

Le château ancien est un témoignage de l’histoire de Collioure. Au fil des siècles, il est utilisé comme une forteresse et subisse des modifications depuis le Royaume de Majorque jusqu’au la dynastie Bourbons. Après la guerre de Trente Ans, la France annexe le territoire de la Côte Vermeille y compris Collioure selon le traité des Pyrénées en 1659.

这座古老的城堡同时也是科利乌尔历史的见证。几个世纪以来,它一直被用作军事堡垒,并经历了从马略卡王国到波旁王朝的各种改造。欧洲三十年战争结束后,法国于 1659 年根据比利牛斯条约吞并了包括科利乌尔在内的维尔梅伊海岸的领土。

Les touristes peuvent monter les grands remparts et faire une randonné sur les chemins en pierre. L’architecte militaire français Vauban lui avait apporté des éléments défensifs supplémentaires. Une demi-lune en forme de “V” est utilisé à couvrir la courtine et les bastions. Vauban améliore le système de défense avec une surélévation systématique des remparts et les réaménagements des trois bastions.

游客可以爬上高大的城墙,在石径上漫步。法国著名军事建筑师沃邦后来给这里添加了一些防御体系。 “V”形半月形堡垒用于覆盖以前的幕墙和垒壁。沃邦通过增加城墙高度和重建三个堡垒来改进城堡的防御系统。

Je pouvais faire une vue panoramique de la mer sur le rempart du château. Il y avait une très légère brise de printemps et la mer était calme avec de petites vaguelettes. La mer était limpide et d’une couleur bleue-pâle mais un peu différent de la Côte d’Azur de couleur saphir bleu. On doit s’émerveille de la clarté de l’eau. Les récifs étaient même visible dans l’eau profond.

我在城堡的城墙上一览科利乌尔海岸的全景。春风荡漾在平静的海面上泛起细小的涟漪。淡蓝色的海水清澈见底,风情却与蔚蓝海岸的宝石蓝海水各有千秋。这里海水的清澈令人赞叹不已,在水深处甚至可以看到礁石的轮廓。

Le moulin de la Cortina

La baie est bordée d’une promenade des palmiers de style tropique. Des villas et maisons sont construit le long de la montage verdoyant. Le fort Saint-Elme se dresse sur le sommet à 170 mètres d’altitude. Le fort est un fort militaire construit entre 1538 et 1552. Au XVIe siècle, Collioure est le territoire du royaume d’Espagne. La forteresse est modifiée à l’adaptation à l’artillerie sous l’ordre de Charles Quint de Habsbourg. Sur la colline, on voit aussi un moulin au-dessus de la ville. Le moulin de la Cortina est construit en 1337 pour servir à moudre du grain mais il est aujourd’hui abandonné.

海湾边环绕着一条热带风格的棕榈树长廊。别墅房屋依山而建。圣埃尔姆城堡矗立在海拔 170 米的山顶上。堡垒是一座建于1538年至1552年间的军事堡垒。16世纪,科利乌尔还属于西班牙王国的领土。在哈布斯堡王朝的查尔斯·昆特的命令下,堡垒为了部署火炮而经过改造。在丘陵上,我们还看到城市上方有一座磨坊。这座科尔蒂纳磨坊建于 1337 年,曾用于研磨谷物,但现已废弃。

Collioure est réellement un petit village mais il est recommandé de passer des vacances ici. Les touristes peuvent imprégner dans l’ambiance catalane et profiter du paysage de la Méditerranée et de l’air vivifiant des montagnes. Quoi de plus agréable qu’un moment de détente face à la vaste mer sous le ciel bleu infini?

科利乌尔着实是个小村落,不过我特别推荐来这里度假几日。游客可以沉浸在加泰罗尼亚的风情中,享受地中海的别样景观和充满活力的山间空气。还有什么能比在海阔天空前放纵自己更惬意的呢?

Tarascon-sur-Rhône 

罗纳河畔的塔拉斯孔

Souvenir d’enfance

En France, il y a deux villes qui s’appellent Tarascon. Un de deux Tarascon est situé au bord de la rivière Rhône dans la région Provence. La ville est une jonction importante entre la ligne de Paris-Lyon-Marseille. Tarascon est située dans le centre de triangle formé par Avignon, Arles et Nîmes. Chaque fois je prenait le train entre Marseille et Montpellier, je était attiré par le paysage de la ville.

在法国,有两个名为塔拉斯孔的城市。其中一个位于普罗旺斯地区的罗纳河畔。这座城市是巴黎-里昂-马赛轴线上的重要交汇点。塔拉斯孔位于由阿维尼翁、阿尔勒和尼姆组成的三角形的中心。每次乘坐马赛和蒙彼利埃之间的火车时,我都会被这座城市的风光所吸引。

J’ai visité la ville avec seulement 12,000 habitants le 29 october 2019 en train TER. C’est la vue typique du Château de Tarascon depuis un pont enjambant la rivière Rhône. Quand les visiteurs prennent le train à travers de la rivière lentement, ils peuvent profiter de cette vue pittoresque de la vallée du Rhône. Sur le côté ouest de la Rhône, c’est la ville Beaucaire et Tarascon est sur le côté est de la Rhône. Au l’automne froid, le mistral violent et froid souffle le visage au long de la Vallée du Rhône.

我在2019 年 10 月 29 日乘坐 TER 火车游览了 这座只有12000居民的小城。这是从横跨罗纳河的桥上遥看塔拉斯孔城堡的经典画面。当游客乘坐火车缓缓过河时,可以欣赏到罗纳河河谷的风姿。罗纳河的西岸是博凯尔镇,塔拉斯孔位于河的东岸。猛烈而寒冷的密斯特拉信风迎面吹过罗纳河谷,却道天凉好个秋。

La Tarasque

La symbole de la ville est une statue de la Tarasque, au pied du château de Tarascon. La Tarasque est un animal du folklore provençal. Elle ressemble à une tortue avec un torse d’un bœuf et un visage d’un homme. Selon la légende de Tarascon, la Tarasque est un dragon amphibie qui vivait sur le rocher où a été construit le château de Tarascon. Elle attaquait habituellement les voyageurs passant le Rhône mais était finalement domptée par la sainte Marthe. Chaque année, fin juin, les habitants revêtissent ses habits médiévaux et traditionnels pour célébrer les fêtes de la Tarasque. La fête à Tarascon ont étée proclamées, par l’UNESCO, comme un patrimoine oral et immatériel de l’humanité.

这座城市的象征是塔拉斯孔城堡脚下的塔拉斯克雕像。 塔拉斯克是普罗旺斯民间传说中的一种动物。她神似一只乌龟,有着牛的躯干和男人的脸。根据塔拉斯孔的民间传说,塔拉斯克是一条两栖巨龙,生活在建造塔拉斯孔城堡的岩石上。巨龙经常袭击了穿越罗纳河的旅行者,但最终被圣女玛尔特驯服。每年 6 月底,当地居民穿上中世纪的传统服装庆祝塔拉斯克节。塔拉斯孔节如今已被联合国教科文组织列非物质类遗产。

Le Château de Tarascon

Le monument historique le plus remarquable est le château de Tarascon construit à partir de 1400. Il était une forteresse et à la même temps un palais résidentiel du roi René. Le château d’hauteur de 45 m est bâti sur un îlot rocheux en bordure du Rhône. Il est accessible par un pont de pierre. Dans l’histoire de France, la forteresse assurait la sécurité de la frontière occidentale de la Provence en raison de l’emplacement stratégique militaire. De nos jours, ses douves ont perdu la fonctionne de protection militaire parce que l’eau dans les douves est été drainé.

此处最引人瞩目的历史古迹当属建于 1400 年的塔拉斯孔城堡。它曾经是一座堡垒,同时也是雷内国王的住宅。这座 45 m 高的城堡建在罗纳河边缘的岩石小岛上。可通过石桥进入。在法国历史上,这座要塞因其战略位置为普罗旺斯西部边境的安全提供了保障。如今护城河中的水已经抽干,也已经失去了其军事防御的功能。

Le château de la style mélangée de gothique et renaissance est constitué d’une muraille de 4 m d’épaisseur avec deux tours rondes. La muraille est surmontée de crénelage. Les fenêtres sur la muraille sont fermée avec une clôture de fer. Je prenais une photo sur le cour d’entrée. Derrière moi, c’était la tour de l’Horloge.

这座融合了哥特式和文艺复兴式风格的城堡由一堵 4 m 厚的城墙和两座圆塔组成。城墙顶部是锯齿状的雉堞。墙上的窗户被铁栅栏封死。我在前院拍了一张照片,身后是城堡的钟楼。

La cour d’honneur

Au centre du château se trouve la cour d’honneur autour de laquelle s’élèvent les bâtiments d’habitation. Ils sont desservis par des jolies escaliers à vis, une typique décoration de renaissance. La tour des chapelles se situe aussi sur la cour. Les fenêtres de la chapelle sont décorées de rosace de fer forgé. La cour pavée d’ardoise couverte de mousse me rappelait à l’époque de Duc d’Anjou au XVe siècle.

城堡的中心是主庭院,住宅区围绕着庭院而建。这座漂亮的螺旋楼梯连接住宅入口,螺旋楼梯是典型的文艺复兴装饰。小教堂的塔楼也位于庭院中。小教堂的窗户装饰有锻铁玫瑰花结。长满青苔的石板铺成的古老庭院不禁让我联想起 15 世纪 安茹公爵统治的那段日子。

Il y a une terrasse grande au sommet de la tour. J’aimais faire un arrêt court sur la terrasse sous les rayons du soleil chaud de l’automne et m’appuyer solitairement sur une balustrade en regardant lointainement. Elle offert un panorama exceptionnel sur la Rhône, la ville de Tarascon, les montagnes au loin de l’horizon. En ce moment, la brise caressait doucement mon visage. La rémanence du soleil à l’après-midi de Provence est si agréable.

塔顶有一座大型观景露台。我喜欢在秋日暖阳下的露台休息少顷,独自在露台上凭栏远眺。罗纳河、塔拉斯孔市以及遥远地平线上的寸寸山河尽收眼底。此时此刻,微风轻抚着我的脸庞。普罗旺斯午后的烟光残照竟是如此的惬意。

La Collégiale Royale Sainte-Marthe

La terrasse surplombant la ville me permet de profiter pleinement de la vue panoramique sur la Collégiale royale Sainte-Marthe au sud du château. L’église Sainte-Marthe fut érigée aux XIe et XIIe siècles en l’honneur de Marthe de Béthanie qui est la sainte patronne de la ville de Tarascon. Selon le Nouveau Testament, Marthe de Béthanie est une disciple de Jésus-Christ. Elle dompta la Tarasque avec un vase d’eau bénite.

在俯瞰城市的露台上,下方城堡南边的圣玛尔特皇家学院教堂清晰可见。 圣玛尔特教堂为了纪念塔拉斯孔市的守护神圣女玛尔特而建于 11 和 12 世纪之间。据新约故事记载,圣女是基督的门徒。她用一瓶圣水在塔拉斯孔驯服了怪兽塔拉斯克。

La façade latérale de l’église était affiché de le portrait de sainte-Marthe. L’église catholique avait un portail méridional magnifiant et un clocher haut. Le portail du XIIe siècle est décoré de frises d’oves et des chapiteaux du portail, avec frise de feuilles d’acanthe. L’église légendaire abritait aussi le tombeau de sainte Marthe.

教堂的侧立面悬挂着圣玛尔特的肖像。这座天主教堂有一座宏伟的门廊和高耸的尖塔。 12 世纪的门廊装饰有椭圆形的楣和装饰有茛苕叶楣的柱头。圣玛尔特的墓据说也安置在这里。

Il n’y pas beaucoup de spécialités à visiter à Tarascon. J’errais solitairement dans les rues pavées étroites au soleil du matin. J’appréciais les volets au fenêtre et le labyrinthe des maisons de style provençale.

塔拉斯孔可参观的特色景点其实并不多。清晨的阳光下,我独自一人漫步在狭窄的鹅卵石街道上。欣赏着街边屋上的百叶窗和迷宫般的普罗旺斯风格房屋。

Regardez les maisons anciennes à Tarascon! Les arcades des voûtes basses et les fenêtres multicolores méritent un intérêt particulier. Les murs de brique cassés s’écaillaient sous l’érosion du temps. En flânant dans le quartier vieux, je pouvais apercevoir la vie unique de Provence à travers les interstices entre les portes. Ces marques anciennes racontent le passé glorieux, laissant une trace d’arrière-goût.

看看这些塔拉斯孔的老房子!特别是这种低矮的拱门和五颜六色的窗户。残缺的砖墙因岁月的侵蚀而斑驳崩裂。漫步在老城区的寻常巷陌,透过细小的门缝探寻普罗旺斯的别样生活。这些古老印记诉说着曾经的光辉岁月,留下一丝回味。

L’hôtel de ville

Dans chaque ville française, l’hôtel de ville mérite une visite. L’hôtel de ville de Tarascon est un bâtiment symbolique de style de Louis XIII. Je le rencontre dans un coin d’une ruelle étroit. La façade est décorée d’un balcon à encorbellement, d’un buste de Marianne (une figure symbolique de la République française), et d’une niche contenant la statue de Sainte-Marthe et de la Tarasque. Il y a des cloches et un horloge grand au sommet. La construction de l’hôtel date de XVIIe siècle. Il représente l’architecture splendide de Provence.

在每个法国小镇里,市政厅都值得一游。塔拉斯孔市政厅是路易十三时期风格的标志性建筑。我在一条狭窄的小巷的转角里邂逅了它。它的正立面装饰有一个带梁柱的阳台、一尊玛丽安(法兰西共和国的象征)的半身像,以及一个包含圣女玛尔特和塔拉斯克雕像的壁龛。顶部有小铃铛和钟表。这座市政厅的建造历史可以追溯到 17 世纪。它代表了普罗旺斯辉煌的建筑艺术。

Le Théâtre de Tarascon

D’autre bâtiment historique est le théâtre. Le Théâtre de Tarascon est l’un des plus remarquables théâtres à l’italienne de la région Provence. Le théâtre à l’italienne est un style architectural concernant l’organisation des volumes intérieurs des théâtres dont les premiers exemples remontent à la fin du XVIe siècle en Italie. Les caractéristiques qui le distinguent des théâtres précédents incluent la forme de la salle de spectacle, la séparation entre scène et public, et la disparition des gradins, remplacés par les galeries et les loges. Le théâtre ancien fut détruit par un incendie et le bâtiment actuel fut inauguré par la comédie du « Barbier de Séville » de Rossini en 1888.

塔拉斯孔另一个历史建筑是就剧院。塔拉斯孔剧院是普罗旺斯地区最引人注目的意大利市剧院。意大利式是一种讲究剧院内部空间的建筑风格,最早的意大利式剧院可以追溯到 16 世纪末的意大利。它的特点包括礼堂的形状、舞台和观众的分割以及画廊和包厢取代了罗马时期的看台。这些都是区别于以前的剧院的特点。旧剧院曾经被大火烧毁,现在的建筑是在 1888 年由罗西尼的“塞维利亚理发师”喜剧揭幕。

Il faut plus de 3 heures pour visiter le centre de la ville, qui est un témoignage de l’histoire de Tarascon. Avant de partir, je jetais un œil dernière sur la porte avec une statue dorée de sainte Marthe. Elle représente la tradition et la culture de la ville. Je crois que la culture est le stimulant pour des voyages. Voir les paysages et la vue unique du monde. C’est la signification de voyage!

游览市中心共计需要3个多小时,这里是塔拉斯孔历史的见证。临行前,我最后目睹了一眼这座雕着圣玛尔特金像的大门。它代表了这座城市的宗教传统和文化。我一直相信旅行的动力就是探索不同的文化和不同的人生。独上高楼,望尽天涯路,这也许就是旅行的根本意义!

L’excursion sur la campagne de Provence

普罗旺斯乡间行

La Provence est une région extraordinaire de sud de France. Plusieurs poètes ont exalté sans relâche sa beauté incroyable, sa lumière claire, l’atmosphère silencieuse… Elle possède aussi une campagne étonnante avec une vue pittoresque. Quand vous flâniez à travers des ruelles romantiques, vous pouviez goûter la douceur de la vie.

普罗旺斯是南法地区一片超凡乐土。众多诗人也曾孜孜不倦地颂扬它那瞠目结舌的美景,明朗的阳光,安静怡人的气息……以及一个个风景如画的村落。当你漫步在那里浪漫的小巷里,就会尝到生活的一丝甜蜜美满。

Le champ de lavande à Valensole

Dans ce pays du soleil en l’été, le champ parfumé de lavande pourpre est sans doute connu par tout le monde. Le champ continu avec une vue époustouflante s’étend à l’infini sur la terre de Valensole. Chaque année la floraison se produit seulement entre fin juin et début juillet donc il faut y visiter avant la récolte.

在这片盛夏烈日普照之地,紫色薰衣草的芬芳原野早已家喻户晓。连绵不绝的田野在瓦朗索大地上蔓延伸展,美不胜收。每年花期只在 6 月下旬和 7 月初之间,所以一定要在收割前来此参观。

Les champs denses se colorent de pourpre et l’odeur unique de la lavande se répand partout. La lavande est une espèce de sous-arbrisseaux de la famille des Lamiaceae qui est appréciée pour la qualité olfactive de son huile essentielle. Elle est utilisée dans les parfums, savons et autres produits cosmétiques. L’odeur agréable de la lavande attire toujours plusieurs abeilles bourdonnantes.

在茂密的紫色薰衣草田里那独特的香味四处弥漫。薰衣草是唇形科植物的一种亚灌木,因其高品质精油而闻名天下。它也用于香水、肥皂和其他化妆品的制作。薰衣草花丛那宜人的香味吸引着嗡嗡作响的群蜂。

Lavande préfère les emplacements ensoleillés et les sols calcaires drainés et secs donc les zones montagneuses et ensoleillées de Méditerranée sont les lieux d’origine. Je me faisais plaisir dans l’océan de fleurs en ce moment. Mes yeux se remplissent des fleurs épanouies. Je m’émerveillais de la paysage magnifique que je n’ai jamais vu dans ma vie. Je pense que la Provence sans champs de lavande est comme un corps sans âme.

薰衣草性喜阳光充足的地方和易于排水的干燥石灰岩土壤,因此地中海的山区和阳光充足的普罗旺斯地区就是其原产地。此刻我徜徉在花海里,乱花渐欲迷人眼。我不由得惊叹此生从未见过此般壮丽秀美的景观。我坚信没有薰衣草的普罗旺斯就像一具没有灵魂的躯体。

Le parc naturel régional du Verdon

Valensole se situe dans le parc naturel régional du Verdon. Le parc naturel riche de végétation s’étend sur 188 000 hectares et comporte les paysages touristiques différents. Le long de la route 957, le paysage le plus commun à mes yeux est la falaise verticale et les plantes verdoyantes qui poussent en falaises abruptes à l’aise.

瓦朗索位于凡尔登地区自然公园内。这个植被丰富的自然公园占地 188,000 公顷,包含不同的旅游景观。沿着这条957号公路前行,眼里四处都是垂直的悬崖和峭壁上肆意生长郁郁葱葱的绿色植物。

Les gorges du Verdon et le lac de Sainte-Croix sont deux sites splendides dans le parc naturel. Le gorge est creusé par la rivière Verdon bordé des arbres typiques de Provence comme le buis, le chêne vert, et le Genévrier.

凡尔登峡谷和圣十字湖是自然公园中的两个知名景点。峡谷由凡尔登河侵蚀而成,周围环绕着普罗旺斯地区典型的植被,比如黄杨、绿橡木和杜松。

J’aimais le moment d’embrasser la nature. J’avais le loisir de voir des espèces de fleur de Provence comme la violette de jordan et la fraxinelle blanche le long des sentiers de randonnée. Ici je profitais une vue extraordinaire sur le lac de bleu cristallin.

我享受拥抱大自然的时刻。闲暇之中在小径上看到各种普罗旺斯花卉,比如紫罗兰和白菊花。在这里也欣赏了这片水晶蓝湖的非凡景色。

Les Gorges du Verdon

Les Gorges du Verdon s’étirent sur environ 100 km et est le plus grand canyon en Europe. C’est la vue panoramique du lac et de la embouchure du gorge depuis le Pont du Galetas. La rivière Verdon serpente dans le canyon et se verse sur le lac de Sainte-Croix ici. Le gorge long est un lieu parfait de pratique du canoë-kayak.

凡尔登大峡谷绵延约 100 公里,是欧洲最大的峡谷。从这里的加莱塔桥(Pont du Galetas)可以一览圣十字湖和峡口的全景。凡尔登河蜿蜒穿过峡谷,由此处注入圣十字湖。这片悠远绵长的峡谷是划独木舟的好地方。

Le lac de Sainte-Croix

Le lac entouré de plage et forêt est un centre de tourisme estival. Les touristes peuvent louer pédalos, bateaux électriques et canoës pour découvrir la vue imprenable du lac. Mes amies et moi y avions fait un pique-nique après un court séjour sur le plage ensoleillé. Je pouvais toucher la terre caillouteuse, les grains de sable par mes mains et me ressentait la chaleur de la Provence. Les ombres d’arbre abritent les touristes de l’exposition au soleil. C’est sans doute un bon site pour passer un week-end en camping avec les familles.

这片沙滩和森林环绕的湖泊是著名的夏季旅游地。游客可以租用脚踏船、电动船和独木舟,荡漾在湖光山色里。在阳光明媚的湖滩上短暂休息后,我和朋友们便开始野餐。我亲手触摸这片大地以及细软的沙粒,感受普罗旺斯的无尽暖意。岸边的婆娑树影供游客避暑乘凉。这里确实是一个举家露营共度周末的好地方。

Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon

Deux villages idylliques Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon et Bauduen se trouvent au bord du lac. Ce village typique de Provence – Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon domine le Lac de Sainte-Croix. Les visiteurs peuvent profiter une vue imprenable sur le lac et sa vallée au coté de village. J’apprécie des aménités environnementales des village telles qu’un paysage verdoyant, la montagne escarpée, la lumière et le calme de nature.

湖畔点缀着两个田园诗般的村庄 Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon 和 Bauduen。这个典型的普罗旺斯村落 – Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon 俯视整个圣十字湖。游客可以在此欣赏湖泊及其山谷的壮丽景色。风光明媚的村落拥有一片绿意昂然、群峰迭起的淡雅环境,这种自然的平静令人神往。

Au loin, des vestiges de vieux château et petits villages sont niché dans les montagnes. Le lac de bleu cristallin s’étend si vastement jusqu’au fin de ciel. On regarde le ciel bleu et respire de l’air frais. Il y a des temps où l’on pleure les plaisirs perdus. La vie est si belle!

远处,古老的城堡遗迹和小村庄镶嵌在山间。湛蓝的湖水浩浩荡荡,横无际涯。仰望湛蓝天空,呼吸新鲜空气。愿时光温柔以待,愿岁月永不蹉跎。

Bauduen

Bauduen est un village au riche passé historique, adossé à la colline du Défens au sud du Lac de Sainte-Croix. J’admirais la porte médiévale et les maisons de pierre. Il y a seulement 302 habitants dans le village, avant une vie insouciante. A l’après-midi au soleil, je flânais au bord de la rive gauche du lac. Lors du voyage, je me suis ressenti le charme unique du village qui est isolé de l’extérieur.

Bauduen 是一个历史悠久的村庄,背倚圣十字湖之阴的 Defens 山。这里的中世纪的拱门和古老石屋在我的心里留下一丝波澜。村里只有302名居民,过着无忧无虑的生活。午后的阳光下,我沿着圣十字湖左岸漫步由衷感受到了这片与外界隔绝的村庄独特的魅力。

Gordes

Je visitais ensuite une région qui s’appelle Luberon. D’autre fameux village perché sur le rocher est Gordes. Il est situé au Parc naturel régional du Luberon sur les monts de Vaucluse. Il est classé l’un des plus beaux villages de France. De la première vue, je m’émerveillais du plan local d’urbanisme de ce village. Les maisons en ‘pierre sèche’ s’étagent le long des crêtes verdoyantes de la montagne. La pierre sèche est une pierre locale fabriquée sans mortier et sans joints apparents. Le château et l’église de Gordes se lèvent dans la cime en haut. Vous pouvez l’imaginer comme un village dans le ciel.

之后我游览了吕贝隆山区。另一个坐落在岩石上的著名村庄就是石头城。它位于 Vaucluse 山脉的 吕贝隆自然公园内。它曾被评为法国最美丽的村庄之一。第一眼我就对这个村庄的布局感到惊叹不已。 众多干石制的房屋紧密散布于绿色山脊上。干石是一种当地制作的石头,没有任何砂浆,也没有可见的接缝。石头城的城堡和教堂耸立在高高的山顶之上。你完全可以把它想象成一座天空之城。

Le village est accessible par la route Cavaillon. En route, il y a une point de vue parfaite sur la vallée. C’est une terrasse offrant un paysage fantastique du coucher de soleil. J’y prenais la photo la plus mémorable de mon voyage à Provence.

可通过 Cavaillon 公路抵达石头城。在途中,有一个完美的观景点。这是一个露台,可以欣赏到绝妙的日落景观。我在那里拍摄了普罗旺斯之旅中最难忘的照片。

Le château de Gordes

Avant le coucher du soleil, je prenais une heure de faire randonnée dans ses vielles rues du village. L’architecture le plus remarquable dans le village est le château de Gordes. Le château d’époque médiévale et Renaissance est construit à partir de XI siècle. Je m’approchais lentement le mur du château et observais à courte portée les détails architecturaux subtils. Le château comporte de nombreux éléments de style Renaissance, par exemple les fenêtres à croisillon et l’escalier à vis.

日落之前,我特意花了一个小时寻迹石头城古老的街道。村庄里最引人注目的建筑就是这座城堡。这座中世纪时期文艺复兴风格的城堡始建于 11 世纪。我缓步走近城墙,近距离观察了一些细微的建筑细节。城堡包含许多文艺复兴风格的特色,例如格子窗和螺旋楼梯。

La façade nord est flanquée de deux tours rondes à mâchicoulis hautes de 20 m. La couronne de mâchicoulis supporte une terrasse pour l’artillerie. La tour de trois étages est ouverte à visite. La forme de tour ressemble la pièce dans le jeu d’échec.

城堡北面两侧是两座高 20 m 的圆塔。塔楼的突堞支撑着布置大炮的炮台。这座三层的塔楼也对游客开放。塔的形状特别神似国际象棋中的车。

L’Abbaye de Sénanque

L’architecture en pierre autour de Gordes est très formidable. A 4km de Gordes, on trouve un monastère cistercien fondé en 1148. L’abbaye de Notre Dame de Sénanque est l’un des sites touristiques les plus connus du Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon. Bien-sur, à mon avis, le paysage inoubliable est son joli champ de lavandin fleuri devant l’abbaye.

石头城周围的石头建筑也值得参观。距石头城 4 公里处有一座建于 1148 年的西多会修道院。这个名为塞南克圣母修道院是吕贝隆地区自然公园里最著名的旅游景点。当然,在我眼里,它那令人难以忘怀的景观依然是修道院前开满鲜花的美丽薰衣草田。

L’abbaye ancienne est édifiée en calcaire et les toitures sont couvertes de lauzes. Ce clocher couronné par un toit en pierre de taille est typique de l’architecture romane cistercienne. Une partie de l’abbaye est ouverte pour visite. La vie monastique dans la vallée paisible est calme et sobre.

古老的修道院是用石灰石建造的,屋顶覆盖着板岩。这座钟楼是琢石建造,典型的西多会罗马式建筑。修道院的一部分开放供参观。这座宁静山谷中的僧侣生活一定是平静而脱俗。

Quand la cloche de l’abbaye avait sonné à l’heure du crépuscule, cela marquait la fin du voyage inoubliable cette fois. Au retour, j’ai fait un dernier coup d’œil sur le champ de lavandin avec souvenir. A l’été de 2020, la couleur splendide de lavande m’ont laissé une impression indélébile dans mon cœur. A l’avenir, j’espère que ma vie soit belle comme les fleurs d’été de Provence.

当修道院的阵阵钟声在黄昏时分响彻山谷,这次难忘旅程也要就此画上句号了。在归程途中,我最后依依不舍注视了一眼远方的薰衣草田。 在2020年的夏天,薰衣草那绚丽色彩在我的心中留下浓墨重彩的一笔。未来,我也希望我的生活会像普罗旺斯的夏花一样美丽绚烂!

A la découverte de l’histoire d’Orange

奥朗日怀古

Mazurka, du ballet Coppélia – Léo Delibes

Au sud de France, il y a une petite ville Orange qui s’appelle la « Cité des Princes ». Au Moyen Âge, elle est la capitale de la principauté d’Orange depuis 1181 mais annexée par la France dans les traités d’Utrecht en 1713. Pendant cette période, Orange était toujours un état vassal du Saint-Empire romain germanique et avait un lien fort avec la Pays-Bas. Elle est aussi une ville importante de l’Empire romaine qui se situe à un carrefour de passages au nord d’Avignon.

在法国南部,有一个叫奥兰治的小镇,被称为“王子之城”。在中世纪的岁月里,它从 1181 年以来一直都是奥兰治公国的首都,但在 1713 年的乌得勒支条约中被法国吞并。 在此期间,奥兰治同时也是神圣罗马帝国的附庸国,并且与荷兰有着密切的联系。它也是罗马帝国下辖的重要城市,位于阿维尼翁以北的十字路口。

La Meyne

J’ai visité la ville en l’automne de 2019. La Meyne est une rivière que j’ai vu après la sortie de la gare. La rivière traverse la ville d’Orange et se jette dans le Rhône. C’est un matin sombre et les paysages sont obscurs sous les nuages. Malgré le lugubre de l’automne, les fleurs provençales ne perdent jamais les couleurs resplendissant.

2019年的深秋,我短暂踏足了这座城市。这条梅恩河是我出站后看到的一条河流。它穿过奥兰治市,注入罗纳河。这是一个阴沉的早晨,厚厚云层下的风景略显阴暗。尽管秋天萧瑟阴沉,普罗旺斯的花朵却永远不会失去它灿烂的色彩。

Monument aux morts et commémoratifs

En route ver le center ville, je trouve une sculpture sur le Cours Pourtoules. Le monument aux morts sur la place plantée de mûriers blanc et platanes est érigé pour souvenir les morts dans la guerre franco-prussienne en 1870. Il est établi en 1894 et fabriqué en bronze. L’emblème tricolore avec deux lettres RF représente la république francaise.

通向老城区的途中,我在Cours Pourtoules 发现了一座雕塑。种满白桑树和梧桐树的广场上耸立的战争纪念碑是为纪念1870年普法战争中的死难者。它建于1894年,由青铜制成。带有两个字母 RF 的三色标志代表着法兰西共和国。

Théâtre antique d’Orange

Le monument le plus important de la ville est le Théâtre antique d’Orange. Le Théâtre antique et l’Arc de Triomphe d’Orange sont inscrits au répertoire des monuments mondiaux de l’UNESCO depuis 1981. Quand je suis promené dans le center historique, je m’apercevais le muraille grande fabriqué en brique. Le mur extérieur du Théâtre antique est long de 104 m et haut de 35 m. « C’est la plus belle muraille de mon royaume », Louis XIV a dit lors d’une visite de la ville.

该市最重要的历史古迹就是这座奥朗日古剧院。古剧院和凯旋门在 1981 年被列入联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产名录。当我漫步于老城区时,便一眼瞥见了这座砖砌的高墙。古剧场的外墙长104m,高35m。 “这是朕王国里最壮丽的墙”,路易十四曾在访问这座城市后如是说。

Orange est une colonie romaine nommée Arausio après la conquête de Gaule. Le théâtre est construit sous le règne d’Auguste au 1er siècle avant J.-C. et il est un des théâtres romains les mieux conservés au monde. Le théâtre est un bâtiment culturel important de l’empire romain. En raison de la restauration et la conservation, l’aspect original du théâtre est montré au monde. Je me suis tenu sur les gradins et faisais une vue panoramique du théâtre. La statue de l’Empereur Auguste est placée dans la niche centre. La cavea pouvait accueillir 9 000 spectateurs répartis selon leur rang social.

奥朗日曾是一个罗马殖民地,在罗马征服高卢后被命名为阿劳西奥。该剧院建于公元前 1 世纪奥古斯都统治时期,是世界上保存最完好的古罗马剧院。剧院是罗马帝国城市重要的文化建筑。由于持续的修复和保护,剧院的原貌终向世人展示。此时我站在看台上,将剧院的全景尽收眼底。奥古斯都大帝的雕像就置于中央壁龛中。剧院可以容纳 9,000 名观众,座位根据他们的社会等级划分。

Le mur de scène de longueur 35 m était décoré de statues, frises (une bande décorative, souvent horizontale) et colonnes de marbre. Je pouvais voir quelques vestige de colonnes sur le mur ancien. En 2006, un toit de scène a été ajouté afin de protéger le mur et de permettre l’accrochage des éclairages. Malgré l’érosion du temps, les murs cassés et les scènes sont toujours utilisé pour les concerts et spectacles.

剧院35 m 长的舞台后墙上装饰着雕像、檐壁饰带和大理石柱。我仍然可以在古老墙面上发现一些柱子的残余物。 2006年,官方增加了舞台屋顶以保护墙壁并添加了悬挂照明设施。尽管饱受岁月的侵蚀,支离破碎的墙壁和舞台如今仍然用于音乐会和表演。

Depuis un portique semi-circulaire connectant le théâtre, je suis arrivé sur une espace ouverte contenant les vestiges d’un temple et de son autel. Le Théâtre et l’édifice en hémicycle constituaient un augusteum qui est un site du culte impérial de la Rome antique. Maintenant les touristes pouvaient seulement voir le soubassement excavé, les graviers et les débris.

从连接剧院的半圆形门廊,我来到了一个包含神庙及其祭坛遗迹的露天空间。剧院和半圆形建筑形成了一个名曰augusteum的古罗马帝国的祭祀场所。如今游客只能看到一些挖掘出的基岩、砾石和碎片。

Le temple établi sur un podium mesure 24 mètres de large et 35 mètres de long. Il est dévasté par les guerres et les ruines sont parsemées des mousses vertes. Le temple et le théâtre antique sont adossé à la colline Saint-Eutrope. D’habitude, le théâtre qui s’inspire de Grèce présente la particularité d’être adossé à une colline.

这座建在平台基座上的神庙宽24米,长35米。它已被战争摧毁,残留的废墟上布满了绿色的苔藓。神庙和古老的剧院背倚Saint-Eutrope山。通常受希腊建筑风格影响的剧院才会靠山而建。

Musée d’Art de d’Histoire d’Orange

Face au théâtre antique, il y a une petite musée, la Musée d’Art de d’Histoire d’Orange qui abrite une riche collection retraçant l’histoire d’Orange, de l’Antiquité jusqu’au 19e siècle. Le Musée est installé dans l’hôtel de Georges Van Cuyl qui était responsable des munitions du château des princes d’Orange au 17e siècle. L’hôtel a conservé son escalier, ses fenêtres, ses plafonds à la française et une cheminée en gypserie.

在古剧院对面,有一个小型博物馆即奥朗日历史艺术博物馆,馆内收藏了追溯奥兰治从古代到 19 世纪的历史的藏品。博物馆位于 荷兰人Georges Van Cuyl 的公馆内,他曾负责 17 世纪奥朗日王子城堡的弹药供给。这座建筑保留了当时的楼梯、窗户、法式天花板和灰泥壁炉。

Dans le musée je visitais quelques salles. La salle des cadastres est la salle plus grande qui présente les fragments de 3 cadastres romains gravés sur des plaques de marbre. Ces cadastres romains découverts en 1949 sont les mieux conservés au monde. Des sculptures de sphinx et chapiteaux sont affichée dans la salle. Les antiques du Ier siècle proviennent de la décoration du mur de scène du Théâtre. Il est très rapide de finir la visite du musée. L’entrée est gratuit si vous avez acheté le ticket du Théâtre antique. Ici, l’histoire riche de la ville a laissé des traces visibles et souvenirs de son passé.

在博物馆里,我参观了几个房间。cadastre室是一间较大的房间,展示了雕刻在大理石板上的 3 个罗马时期地契的碎片。这些 1949 年考古发现的罗马地契是世界上保存最完好的。房间里还陈列着狮身人面像和罗马柱头。这些 1世纪时期的古董均来自于古剧院舞台墙壁上的装饰。这座博物馆很快就可以逛遍。如果购买了古剧院的门票,则可以免费进入这里参观。在此处这座城市丰富的历史如今留下了清晰可见的印记和对过去的回忆。

Le Théâtre municipal d’Orange

Orange est également dédiée à l’art. Prés du Théâtre antique, je trouvais un théâtre ‘plus moderne’. C’est le Théâtre Municipal d’Orange, construit en 1882. Son architecte est l’architecte avignonnais André-Jean Boudoy. Sur la façade, trois bustes de Pierre Corneille, Molière, et Félicien David sont individuellement installés dans les niches. Ils symbolisent trois formes de spectacle : le tragédie, l’opéra, la comédie.

奥朗日同时也是一座艺术之城。在古剧院附近,我还走到了一个“比较现代”的剧院。它是奥朗日城市剧院,建于 1882 年。它的建筑师是阿维尼翁的建筑师安德烈-让·布多伊 (André-Jean Boudoy)。在正立面上,皮埃尔·科尼尔、莫里哀和费利西安·大卫的三尊半身像分别安置在壁龛中。它们象征着三种戏剧形式:悲剧、歌剧和喜剧。

L’arc de triomphe d’Orange

A l’époque de l’Empire romain, Arausio est une ville de la province romaine Gaule narbonnaise. Cet arc de triomphe s’est situé au nord de Cardo maximus (axe nord-sud) d’Arausio. Il est l’entrée nord de la ville sur la Via Agrippa, une via importante des réseaux de voies romaines connectant Arles, Avignon, Orange, Lyon. L’arc est érigé entre les années 20 et 25 et mesure 19,57 m de long et 8,40 m de large. Malgré l’érosion du temps, les reliefs de la façade sud sont lisibles en raison de la restauration de l’architecte Auguste Caristie.

在罗马帝国时期,阿劳西奥是罗马高卢纳博讷省的一个城镇。这座凯旋门位于阿劳西奥的 南北轴线上的北部。它是城市的北部入口,位于 Agrippa大道上,是连接阿尔勒、阿维尼翁、奥朗日和里昂的路网中的一条重要通道。这座拱门建于公元20和 25 年之间,长 19.57m,宽 8.40m。尽管岁月流逝,但在法国建筑师奥古斯特·卡里斯蒂 (Auguste Caristie) 的修复下,南立面的浮雕仍然清晰可见。

La façade du côté est est décorée de trophées (un motif de décoration, formé d’armes groupées en panoplie autour d’une cuirasse et d’un casque) et de panneaux sculptés en haut-relief délimités par des colonnes corinthiennes. Les panneaux montrent des vêtements, casques, enseignes, trompettes de la IIe légion romaine. Les reliefs au pied représentent les captifs enchaînés au combat. L’arc de l’histoire plus de 2000 ans marque les éclatantes victoires du général romain, Germanicus. La gloire de la vie n’est rien d’autre que cela!

东侧的立面装饰有胸甲和头盔组成的装饰图案和由科林斯柱分隔的突出浮雕板。板上展示了罗马第二军团的服饰、头盔、军旗和喇叭。底部的浮雕代表着在战斗中被枷锁的俘虏。这座超过2000年历史的凯旋门象征着古罗马将军日耳曼尼库斯的辉煌胜利。人生的荣耀不过如此吧。

Outre les monuments romains, les maisons anciennes de center ville peuvent vous faire connaitre l’histoire d’Orange. En 1163, l’Empereur Frédéric Barberousse élève Orange au rang de Principauté. La ville est ensuite sous la règne de la famille Nassau.

除了罗马古迹,市中心的老建筑也可以帮助游客了解更多奥朗日的历史。 1163 年,神圣罗马帝国皇帝弗雷德里克·巴伯鲁斯 (Frédéric Barberousse) 将奥朗日城提升为公国。这座城市当时处于拿骚家族的统治之下。

La cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth d’Orange

La cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth est une ancienne cathédrale catholique romaine dans le center ville. Il est le siège du diocèse d’Orange durant le haut Moyen Âge jusqu’à la Révolution. La construction de la cathédrale commence à partir de 12 siecles. Le clocher haut est aujourd’hui bien conservé. En 1544, Guillaume 1er de Nassau, la Prince d’Orange devient le fondateur des Pays-Bas. Après il y a des brutales guerres de religion entre les catholiques et les protestantes pour le contrôle de la ville. Quelque parties de la cathédrale sont détruites.

Nazareth 大教堂是市中心的一座前罗马天主教大教堂。它是中世纪后期至大革命时期奥朗日教区的所在地。大教堂的建造始于 12 世纪。高大的钟楼今天仍保存完好。 1544年,奥朗日亲王拿骚家族的威廉一世成为荷兰国家的缔造者。在此之后,天主教徒和新教徒之间为争夺这座城市的控制权而展开了惨烈宗教战争。大教堂的部分建筑被摧毁。

C’est une voie depuis le center ville à la colline Sainte Eutrope. En 1620, Maurice de Nassau a construit une grande forteresse sur la colline mais la forteresse est détruite sur l’ordre de Louis XIV à la fin du 17ème siècle après le rattachement de la Principauté au royaume de France. Les ruines de la forteresse sont de nos jours couvertes par un joli parc où offre un magnifique panorama sur la ville.

这是一条从老城区到 Sainte Eutrope 山的路线。 1620 年,拿骚的莫里斯 (Maurice de Nassau) 在山上建造了一座大型堡垒,但在 17 世纪末,当公国并入法兰西王国后,这座堡垒被路易十四下令摧毁。如今,堡垒的废墟被一个美丽的公园完全覆盖,在公园里可以欣赏到这座城市的壮丽全景。

Les Armoiries du royaume des Pays-Bas

Après 1713, la famille de Nassau perde en effet le contrôle d’Orange mais garde toujours le titre honorifique de prince d’Orange. Dans les Armoiries du royaume des Pays-Bas, il y a un texte en français ‘Je maintiendrai’. C’est la devise nationale du royaume des Pays-Bas, aussi la devise de la ville d’Orange.

1713年后,拿骚家族失去了奥朗日的控制权,但仍保有奥朗日亲王的荣誉称号。在荷兰王国的国徽上,有一段“Je maintiendrai”的法语字样。它是荷兰王国的国家信条,也是奥朗日市的城市宣言。

Guillaume 1er d’Orange-Nassau explique sa devise « Je maintiendrai » comme ci:

« Je maintiendrai la vertu et noblesse.
Je maintiendrai de mon nom la hautesse.
Je maintiendrai l’honneur, la foi, la loi
de Dieu, du Roi, de mes amis et moi. »

La ville Orange et Pays-Bas est actuellement de la même origine. Il est intéressé que l’orange est aussi la couleur nationale de Pays-Bas, portée par l’équipe de football. Néanmoins pour les résidents d’Orange, la gloire de passé avait dissipée dans la rivière de l’histoire. Seulement les murs romains se levaient dans les rues de la ville et racontaient silencieusement cette anecdote intéressante aux touristes.

拿骚的威廉一世是如此解释了他的座右铭“我会维护” 即« Je maintiendrai »

我将维护美德和高贵。
我将维护我名下的尊贵。
我将维护上帝、国王、朋友的荣誉、信仰和法律。

所以其实奥朗日市和荷兰本是同根生。有意思的是橙色即Orange也是荷兰的代表色,他们的足球队就身着橙色战袍。尽管如此,对于奥朗日的居民来说,这些过去的辉煌已如过眼烟云一般在历史的长河中消散殆尽了。如今只有古罗马之墙耸立在老城的街边,向游客默默倾述这段趣事。