多文化的交汇地泉州
Known as the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road, Quanzhou was one of the world’s busiest ports during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Even one thousand years ago, it is a multi-cultural city. Nowadays, Quanzhou’s streets echo with this unique cultural symphony. Within a few kilometers, traveler can find Buddhist temples, Taoist shrines, churches, and mosques. Due to its pivotal role as a maritime hub and a melting pot of global cultures, Quanzhou is often called “the Museum of World Religions. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.
泉州，作为海上丝绸之路的起点，在宋元时期曾是世界最繁忙的港口之一。早在千年前，这里便是多元文化交汇的热土。如今，漫步泉州街头，依然能聆听那穿越时空的文化交响——在短短几公里范围内，佛教寺庙、道教圣地、基督教堂与清真寺比邻而立，和谐共存。凭借其作为海上枢纽与全球文化熔炉的重要地位，泉州被誉为“世界宗教博物馆”，并于2021年被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。
Quanzhou was the third stop of my Christmas 2024 journey through Fujian Province, following visits to Fuzhou and Wuyi Mountain. I spent two days exploring this historic city. My trip started from the Chaotian Gate in the south of city. Built during the Song dynasty, when Quanzhou was a flourishing maritime hub, this gate was once the primary entrance, through which envoys, merchants, and travelers passed, their ships anchored nearby in the busy harbor. The name “Chaotian,” meaning “Facing Heaven,” reflects its ceremonial role: it was traditionally used to greet imperial envoys and conduct ritual offerings to heaven and the sea. When I stood before Chaotian Gate, I easily imagined the scene centuries ago—caravans unloading goods, sails fluttering in the breeze, and languages from across Asia and the Middle East echoing through the air.
继福州与武夷山之后，泉州成为我2024年圣诞节福建之旅的第三站。我在这座历史名城停留了两天，细细品味它厚重的文化底蕴。旅程自城南的朝天门启程——这座建于宋代的古老城门，曾是泉州作为繁盛海上枢纽的门户，是商贾、使节与旅人进出的要道，昔日无数船只便停泊在临近的港口边。
“朝天”意为“面向天空”，寓意庄严而神圣。这里不仅是迎接皇帝使者的场所，也曾举行祭天祭海等重要仪式，体现其深远的礼仪功能。站在朝天门前，我仿佛穿越时空，眼前浮现出数百年前的景象：商队忙碌卸货，风帆轻扬，来自亚洲与中东的异域语言在空气中交织回响——那是一幅世界交汇的壮丽画卷。
In the heart of Quanzhou’s old town center, I visited many ancient buildings. The white Clock Tower located on West Street is a distinctive and modern-looked structure built in 1934. Unlike the traditional ancient architecture around it, this tower showcases early 20th-century architectural design. The tower stands at 13.8 meters tall and is constructed from reinforced concrete. At the top of the tower, there are four round clocks, one on each side, allowing the time to be visible from multiple directions along the street. It is not only a building, but more like a time observer, silently witnessing the changing and flowing rhythm of the ancient city.
在泉州古城的中心，我漫步于古巷之间，参观了众多承载岁月痕迹的老建筑。而在西街，一座白色钟楼静静矗立，其造型简洁却不失独特气质，散发出上世纪初的现代风采。它建于1934年，与周围的闽南红砖古厝形成鲜明对比，宛如时代转折处的一笔注解。
这座高13.8米的钟楼由钢筋混凝土建成，坚实挺拔。塔顶设有四面圆形时钟，分别朝向不同方向，令街道上来自各个角落的行人都能一眼望见时间的踪迹。它不仅是一座建筑，更像是一位守时者，默默见证着古城节奏的更迭与流转。
South of the Bell Tower on West Street, the street is lined with traditional Minnan (Southern Fujian) style buildings that beautifully blend regional craftsmanship with colonial-era influences, creating a unique streetscape. The buildings are predominantly two-level shop houses, raised on large white pillars that support the upper floors. These sturdy posts not only provide structural strength but also create a shaded arcade at street level, perfect for pedestrians and operations of small shops.
在西街钟楼以南，街道两旁耸立着一排排传统的闽南风格建筑，巧妙融合了本地工艺美学与殖民时期的异域风情，勾勒出一幅别具韵味的街景画卷。这些建筑多为两层楼的店屋，上层由一根根洁白粗壮的柱子支撑，既赋予结构坚实的力量，也在街道沿线形成连续的拱廊。这些拱廊不仅遮风避日，为行人提供舒适的步行空间，也为小商铺营造了宜人的经营环境。
The walls feature red brick-lined windows and facades, a hallmark of Minnan architecture that brings warmth and texture to the buildings. The windows are framed with decorative wooden shutters or latticework, echoing the intricate patterns found in both Minnan and Southeast Asian architecture. The style closely resembles the Singaporean shop houses found in historic districts like Chinatown. This similarity highlights historical maritime trade connections and cultural exchanges between Fujian and Southeast Asia.
墙体多以红砖砌成，窗户与立面呈现出典型的闽南建筑风貌，赋予整座建筑温暖而质朴的质感。窗户多为装饰性的木质百叶窗或格子窗框，其精致的雕饰与复杂的图案，正是闽南及东南亚建筑中常见的传统美学元素。这种建筑风格与新加坡牛车水等历史街区中的店屋颇为相似，不仅在视觉上唤起遥远南洋的联想，更鲜明地映射出福建与东南亚之间源远流长的海上贸易与文化交流。
West Street is one of Quanzhou’s oldest and most charming thoroughfares. Here I wandered through a lively blend of tradition and experienced the dynamic energy of daily life. Lined with centuries-old shops, tea houses, and local eateries, the street buzzed softly with the mingling scents of fresh pastries and brewed tea. The ancient architecture here, a harmonious mix of southern Fujian style, reflected the city’s rich heritage. As I strolled along West Street, my eyes were naturally drawn to the skyline where two majestic towers rise side by side — the Kaiyuan Temple’s Twin Pagodas. These slender, towering structures, standing tall against the backdrop of blue sky, are iconic symbols of Quanzhou’s cultural and religious history. Their delicate brickwork and multi-tiered eaves cast graceful shadows over the surrounding streets, making the area solemn and poetic.
西街是泉州最古老、也最富魅力的街道之一。我缓步其间，仿佛置身于一幅流动的画卷中，感受到传统与日常生活交织出的蓬勃生机。街道两旁，百年老店、茶馆与地道小吃铺林立，糕点的甜香与茶水的清韵在空气中交融。古老的建筑依旧静默地守护着街道，闽南风格的细节随处可见，折射出这座城市深厚而多元的文化底蕴。行走在这条历史悠久的街道上，我的目光不由被天际线所吸引——两座巍峨挺拔的塔楼并肩而立，正是开元寺的双塔。
这对塔楼高耸入云，身姿纤巧而坚实，在蓝天白云的映衬下巍然屹立，静静诉说着泉州悠远的宗教与文化故事。它们精致的砖石结构与层层飞檐在阳光下投下斑驳的光影，为这片古老街区添上几分庄严与诗意。
Kaiyuan Temple stands as one of the largest and most significant Buddhist temples in Fujian Province. Founded during the Tang Dynasty in 686 AD, it has witnessed over a millennium of spiritual devotion. Stepping into Kaiyuan Temple, I was embraced by an atmosphere of calm and reverence. The gentle scent of incense mingled with the soft chanting of prayers, creating a timeless space for reflection. Surrounding the temple, ancient stone lions and inscribed steles spoke of a rich history interwoven with the city’s vibrant maritime past.
开元寺，是福建省规模最大、意义深远的佛教古刹之一。始建于唐朝公元686年，它历经千年风雨，见证着世代信众的虔诚。步入寺中，仿佛踏入一方超然尘世的净土。淡淡的香火缭绕空中，轻柔的诵经声随风流转，交织成一片宁静而深远的冥想氛围。古老的石狮静立两旁，斑驳的碑刻述说着历史的深沉与岁月的流转。这座千年古寺不仅承载着佛教文化的厚重底蕴，也与泉州这座城市的海洋精神交相辉映。
The Main Hall, or Daxiong Baodian is the majestic centerpiece of Kaiyuan Temple and the focal point for worshipers. Inside, the hall houses the gold statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, the historical Buddha, seated serenely in the center. Surrounding the main statue are smaller figures of bodhisattvas and guardian deities, all carved or sculpted with delicate detail. The hall’s interior exudes a mystery aura, enhanced by soft natural light filtering through lattice windows, and the faint aroma of incense that lingers in the air.
大雄宝殿是开元寺庄严肃穆的核心所在，也是信众心灵归依的圣地。殿内供奉着历史悠久的释迦牟尼佛金身，佛像安坐中央，神态慈悲庄严。主佛四周环绕着造型各异的菩萨与守护神像，皆雕刻精妙，线条流畅。殿内氛围静谧而深沉，仿佛将人引入一方超脱凡尘的净境。柔和的自然光透过格子窗悄然洒落，与空气中缭绕的淡淡香烟交织在一起，自有一种神秘感。
Painted on an interior wall of the temple, this mural of Qilin is a rare and vibrant example of traditional religious art that has withstood the passage of centuries. The Qilin, often regarded as a benevolent and auspicious beast, is a composite creature with the body of a deer or horse, the scales of a dragon or fish, and a mane of fire. It symbolizes peace, virtue, and the arrival of a sage or enlightened ruler. What makes this mural especially striking is its brilliant use of color—tones of turquoise, cinnabar red, gold, and indigo still glimmer faintly despite age.
这幅麒麟壁画绘于开元寺的内壁，是一件历经数百年风霜而依然绚丽如初的宗教艺术瑰宝。麒麟自古被视为仁慈与祥瑞的神兽，身形融合鹿或马的优雅、龙或鱼的鳞片之华美，以及火焰般鬃毛的灵动，象征着和平、美德，亦寓意圣贤或明君的降临。壁画最令人赞叹之处，在于其卓越的色彩运用——青绿清润、朱砂温雅、金色辉映、靛蓝深沉。纵使岁月斑驳，这些色调依然闪烁着柔和的光泽。
The Twin Pagodas of Kaiyuan Temple are the most iconic landmark of Quanzhou. Each pagoda stands over 40 meters tall, built during the Song Dynasty in the 13th century, replacing earlier wooden versions that were destroyed by fire. Crafted entirely of granite, the towers demonstrate remarkable engineering and aesthetic refinement. Delicate stone carvings of Buddhas, celestial beings, lotus patterns, and mythical creatures adorn the surfaces of both towers. Despite centuries of wind and rain, these details remain remarkably well preserved.
开元寺双塔，是泉州最具象征意义的地标之一。两座石塔高耸于古寺一隅，高逾四十米，建于宋代十三世纪，用以取代早年毁于战火的木塔。它们通体由坚硬的花岗岩砌筑而成，不仅体现了宋代高超的建筑技艺，也展现了卓越的审美。塔身雕刻繁复而精致，佛像庄严，仙人灵动，莲花清雅，神兽威武，每一处细节都凝聚着匠人的心血与虔诚。历经数百年风雨洗礼，这些浮雕仍清晰可见。
Beyond the grand halls and towering pagodas, there was a quieter world—a cluster of old temple buildings hidden in the greenery. Their weathered walls and wooden eaves were telling silent stories of centuries past. These structures, modest in scale but rich in character, were once home to monks and temple workers. Their moss-covered tiles, stone thresholds, and delicate wooden lattice windows reflect the elegance of traditional southern Fujian architecture. Time has softened the edges of these buildings: faded red doors, flaking paint, and ancient stone steps worn smooth by generations of footsteps. All are the silent testimony of vicissitude of life.
在宏伟的大殿与巍峨佛塔之外，开元寺还静静隐藏着一片安宁古雅的天地——一排排低矮的寺庙旧舍，掩映于绿意之间。斑驳的墙体与飞檐翘角的木屋顶仿佛在无声诉说着几个世纪前的清寂岁月与修行生活。这些建筑虽不宏大，却独具匠心，曾是僧侣居住与修行之所。青苔斑斓的瓦片、打磨光滑的石门槛、雕饰精巧的木格窗棂，无一不散发着闽南传统建筑的古韵之美。时间悄然在这些角落留下印记：褪色的朱红木门、斑驳剥落的油漆，以及那一阶阶被无数脚步踏磨得圆润光滑的石级，仿佛都在默默见证着人世的变迁。
As I wandered through the old quarter of old Quanzhou, I came across charming two-story houses that seemed to capture the spirit of the city in a single glance. These buildings, made of brick, feature a unique blend of southern Fujian architecture, simple but full of taste of life. The first floor serves as a shop or family living space, its entrance marked by bright red lanterns hanging on the doorway. Above, the second-floor balcony burst into color. Clay pots and wooden planters overflow with blooming flowers—hibiscus, bougainvillea, orchids—cascading over the railings. At the top, a flat rooftop platform serves as an open-air terrace. Locals might use it to dry tea leaves or gather in the evening for conversation. This kind of life rhythm is neither fast nor slow, just like the temperament of Quanzhou city – leisurely, calm, showing the real way of local life.
漫步于泉州的老城区，几处别致的两层楼房映入眼帘，仿佛在不经意间捕捉到了这座古城最真实的气息。这些砖砌民居融合了典型的闽南建筑风格，既质朴又充满生活情调。一层通常为商铺或家庭起居空间，门前常悬挂一对鲜红灯笼。二层则设有色彩斑斓的小阳台，阳台上摆满了陶罐与木制花盆，芙蓉、三角梅、兰花竞相绽放。屋顶为平顶露台，是生活的延伸空间。晴好时分，主人家会在此晾晒茶叶；入夜之后，则成了邻里闲聊纳凉的好去处。这样的生活节奏，不紧不慢，恰如泉州这座城市的气质——悠然、从容，又充满烟火人情。
In the Licheng District, there are many historical sites listed as UNESCO World Heritage Element which is a memory of the history. The site of Southern Clan Office is the official office overseeing Southern‑residing Song dynasty imperial clans based in Quanzhou. Established in the early 12th century, the office managed some 349 members of the imperial Zhao family who fled south during the Jin invasion. Now in the courtyard, stone steles and a sculpted statue stand as silent testaments to the site’s once majestic presence.
泉州鲤城区，拥有众多列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的珍贵遗迹，承载着深厚的历史与文化记忆。其中，南外宗正司遗址尤为独特，它曾是宋代宗室在泉州设立的官方机构，专责管理南迁宗室事务。始建于12世纪初，这里在金朝南侵之际，接纳并安置了约349位南逃的赵氏皇族成员，是南宋王朝血脉延续的重要据点。如今，遗址内静立的石碑与人物塑像，默默诉说着昔日王族的迁徙与沉浮。
There is a small exhibition hall showcasing rich samples of excavated artifacts, 3D interpretive maps, and multimedia reconstructions. Beautiful vases and delicate lotus‑petal pattern bricks, and majestic looking beast‑face ridge tiles from the Song dynasty are displayed here. A large variety of ceramics with inscriptions such as “赵” on pottery bases, link them directly to the imperial clan. These findings strongly affirm the site’s status as a high‑level official administrative complex tied to both the imperial clan and maritime trade governance mechanisms of the Southern Song state.
博物馆内设有一个小型展厅，虽不宏大，却内容丰富。展厅通过出土文物、3D解说地图与多媒体复原图，生动再现了南外宗正遗址的历史风貌。其中展出的宋代文物尤为引人注目：玲珑精致的花瓶、雕刻细腻的莲瓣纹砖、神态威严的兽面脊瓦，无不展现出当时工艺美术的高超水准。此外，还出土了大量陶瓷器，其中一些陶胎上刻有“赵”字铭文，直指南宋皇室的身份印记，成为皇族南迁与驻地生活的直接物证。这些考古发现不仅印证了南外宗正作为高级官僚行政机构的地位，也揭示了它在南宋皇室与海上贸易治理体系中的重要作用。
It is an unknown archaeological site layered with quiet history. Its admission is free, and it has very few visitors, making it a peaceful stop for history enthusiasts. Here I had deeper understanding of how state institutions functioned during the Maritime Silk Road era, and how imperial families adapted to life far from the capital. Every stele and every piece of pottery bears a true trace of their lives during those turbulent times. This small site, although not renowned for its grandeur, quietly reveals a distant and complex history.
这是一处鲜为人知的考古遗址，却静静蕴藏着层层叠叠的历史回响。遗址免费开放，游人寥寥，恍若与尘世隔绝，成为历史爱好者得以静心沉浸的隐秘角落。在这里，我得以更深刻地理解海上丝绸之路鼎盛时期，国家机构的运行机制与权力布局，也窥见了南宋皇室成员在远离京师的异地如何安顿身心、延续传统。每一块碑石、每一片陶瓦，都是他们在动荡年代中书写下的真实生活痕迹。这座小小遗址，不以宏伟取胜，在不经意间，将一段遥远而复杂的历史悄然呈现眼前。
The Site of the Maritime Trade Office is another UNESCO heritage site. It was once the powerful nerve center of China’s official overseas trade during the Song and Yuan dynasties. This was no ordinary government office. It was China’s window to the maritime world, a place where Arab, Persian, Indian, and Southeast Asian merchants registered their ships, paid customs duties, exchanged goods, and interacted with Chinese officials. It witnessed the prosperity of Quanzhou as the “largest port in the East” and also embodied the integration of diverse civilizations on the Maritime Silk Road. Nowadays there are only some remaining excavated stone walls, water channels, and drainage systems.
市舶司旧址，是泉州另一处被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的重要遗迹。它曾是宋元时期中国对外贸易的中枢，不仅是一座行政机构，而是连接中原与阿拉伯、波斯、印度、东南亚等地区商贸往来的桥梁。往昔，来自异域的商人曾在此登记船只、缴纳关税、交换货物，并与中国官员展开繁复的外交与商业往来。市舶司见证了泉州作为“东方第一大港”的鼎盛，也凝聚了海上丝绸之路上多元文明的交融。时至今日，旧址仅存部分石墙、水渠与排水系统，静默于岁月之中。
Far away from the bustle of West Street, the Confucian Temple lie serenely in one corner. Acting as a civilization sanctuary, it is the city’s historical center of learning, moral cultivation, and scholarly reverence. Built originally during the Tang Dynasty and expanded in the Song and Ming periods, this temple is one of the oldest and best-preserved Confucian temples in Fujian Province. More than a religious space, the Quanzhou Confucian Temple in the history served as an educational and civic institution, where Confucian teachings guided the governance and values of society.
远离西街的喧嚣，泉州文庙静静伫立于城市的一隅。宛如一方宁静的文化圣地，它曾是这座古城悠久历史中修身养性与崇尚学问的重要中心。文庙始建于唐代，历经宋明数度扩建，成为福建省保存最为完整、历史最为悠久的文庙。这里不仅是儒家礼仪的祭祀场所，更是古代泉州社会的教育与公民治理重地。儒家思想在此根植，深刻影响着社会的道德准则与价值观念
At the heart of the temple stands the Dacheng Hall, dedicated to Confucius, with statues and tablets honoring the great sage and his disciples. The hall is built in traditional southern Chinese style, with upturned eaves, carved beams, and tranquil courtyards. The courtyard is shaded by ancient pagoda trees which are symbols of scholarly virtue and integrity. These trees are often linked with success in the imperial examination system.
泉州孔庙的核心建筑，是庄严肃穆的大成殿，供奉着孔子及其弟子的塑像与牌位。大成殿采用典型的中国南方传统建筑风格，飞檐翘角、雕梁画栋。殿前庭院幽静古朴，绿荫掩映。这些古槐不仅增添了庭院的肃穆氛围，更象征着儒雅之德与正直之品，历来被视为文运昌盛、士子登科的吉兆。
Walking through the Quanzhou Confucian Temple feels like stepping into a realm of quiet reverence. The symmetry of the architecture and the echo of footsteps in stone courtyards evoked a scholarly world of centuries past. In the center of Dacheng Hall, the solemn figure is the statue of Confucius. Carved with a calm, dignified expression, Confucius is depicted in traditional scholar’s robes, his hands gently clasped in front of his chest in the posture of respect and self-discipline. In the center upper plaque, the phrase 万世师表” means “The Eternal Model Teacher for All Time”. It reflects the deep respect and reverence that generations of Chinese people—especially scholars and officials—have held for Confucius.
漫步于泉州文庙，仿佛步入一片静谧而庄严的圣境。古老建筑严整对称，石砌庭院中回荡的脚步声轻缓悠长，仿佛唤醒了尘封的记忆，将人带回那个儒风蔚然的时代。大成殿正中，孔子塑像巍然屹立，身披传统士大夫袍服，双手合抱于胸前，神情沉静而肃穆。殿堂上方，高悬着“万世师表”四字匾额，映照着千百年来中国文人雅士、士子官宦对至圣先师的崇高敬仰
The Chinese phrase “半城烟火半城仙” is a modern poetic description of Quanzhou, capturing its unique charm as a city where earthly life and spiritual heritage coexist in harmony. It means ‘Half a city of worldly bustle, half a city of sacred calm.’ As a major port in the Song-Yuan era, it was a global city, home to people of many religions, cultures, and trades. I walked through one historical street with centuries-old Buddhist pagoda, elegant mosque and shrine shrouded of incense smoke. Beliefs are not divided by East and West, and different cultures hold respect to each other.
“半城烟火半城仙”是对泉州最富诗意的当代表达，它精准捕捉了这座城市尘世烟火与精神遗产和谐共生的独特魅力。作为宋元时期举世闻名的港口，泉州曾是国际贸易的重要枢纽，也是一座多元文化交融的海上都市，吸引着来自世界各地的宗教信仰、技艺行会与异域族群。漫步于泉州街头，一条古老的街道两旁，历史的痕迹清晰可见。古朴庄严的佛塔、静穆典雅的清真寺、香火缭绕的庙宇并肩而立。信仰不分东西，文化彼此尊重.
The Qingjing Mosque was built in 1009 AD during the Northern Song Dynasty, it is the oldest extant Islamic mosque in China and a UNESCO-listed site. Unlike the wooden halls and eaves typical of Chinese religious structures, it is constructed primarily from white and gray granite in a style reminiscent of Middle Eastern Islamic architecture. This makes it visually and culturally distinct from the Buddhist and Daoist temples in the city. It is physical evidence of early Muslim communities in China, likely Yemeni or Persian merchants who settled in Quanzhou and assimilated into the local society during the Song and Yuan dynasties.
清净寺始建于北宋大中祥符二年（公元1009年），是中国现存最古老的伊斯兰清真寺，亦被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。不同于中国传统宗教建筑常见的木结构与飞檐斗拱，清净寺通体以灰白色花岗岩砌筑而成, 使人联想到中东地区典型的伊斯兰建筑风格。这种独特的石砌形制在泉州众多佛教、道教寺庙中格外醒目。清净寺更是早期穆斯林社群在泉州扎根的实物见证。印证了宋元时期阿拉伯、波斯等地的穆斯林商人曾在此定居、通商并深度融入当地社会。
Embedded within the Qingjing Mosque’s courtyard wall, the imperial edict of the Yongle Emperor stands as a powerful symbol of the Ming dynasty’s recognition and protection of Islam in Quanzhou. Issued in the early 15th century, the edict praises the virtue and loyalty of the Muslim community in Quanzhou and commands officials to respect and safeguard their religious practices. This not only reflects the country’s recognition of the religious rights of ethnic minorities, but also demonstrates Quanzhou’s open-mindedness in the coexistence of diverse cultures and religions.
在清净寺幽静的庭院中有一道嵌于墙壁的明代圣旨。这道圣旨出自永乐皇帝之手，颁于15世纪初，是明朝中央政权承认并保护泉州伊斯兰教的有力象征。圣旨不仅赞扬了泉州穆斯林群体的忠诚与品德，还明令地方官员尊重并维护其宗教信仰与生活习俗。这不仅体现了明政府对少数族群宗教权利的认可，也彰显了泉州在多元文化与宗教共存方面的开放胸怀。
In Quanzhou, the most crowded temple must be the The Tonghuai Guandi Temple. It does not belong to any religion and is dedicated to Guan Yu, the legendary general from the Three Kingdoms era who was both loyal and courageous. Guan Yu is worshiped not only for his military prowess but more importantly for his unwavering loyalty, righteousness, and moral integrity. This temple perfectly captures the city’s unique mix of tradition and folk belief that stretches back through centuries.
在泉州，最为热闹香火鼎盛的庙宇，当属通淮关帝庙。这座庙宇不隶属任何单一宗教体系，而是供奉三国时期的传奇将领关羽——一位集忠义、勇武于一身的历史人物。关羽之所以广受敬仰，不仅因其卓越的军事才能，更因为他忠诚不渝、刚正不阿的品格，早已超越历史人物的范畴。在泉州，关帝庙的存在，完美体现了地方传统和民间信仰的深度融合。
Despite the centuries that have passed, the temple is always filled with curling incense smoke and steady streams of worshipers. People come here to seek strength in times of difficulty. Business owners and families burn incense to ask for protection and prosperity. The main building like red-painted walls, intricate wooden carvings, and a series of arched roofs adorned with ceramic dragons is beautiful. But the air was heavy with the scent of incense when I traveled here and the area in front of the temple was surrounded by devotees bowing before the altar and offering sticks of incense.
尽管沧海桑田，岁月更迭，寺庙中依旧香烟缭绕，香客络绎不绝。困境中的人们来到此处，寻求力量与慰藉；商贩与家庭也焚香祈愿，盼得庇佑与昌盛。主殿巍然矗立，红漆墙壁凝重典雅，木雕精巧细腻，拱形屋顶上陶瓷神龙昂首盘踞，尽显匠心与气韵。此刻，浓烈的香火味弥漫在空气中，寺庙前人潮汇聚，虔诚的信众在神坛前肃然鞠躬、献香。
I continued to move to the Tianhou temple in the south of city. In Fujian province, for centuries, Mazu who is the Goddess of the Sea, has held a place of profound spiritual and cultural importance in the lives of the local people. Generations of their families lived by and through the sea. Mazu became their guardian deity. Even overseas, Fujianese migrants carried her image across oceans, building Mazu temples in Taiwan, Southeast Asia and Singapore. The Tianhou Temple is the sacred shrine dedicated to Mazu.
我继续向城南前行参观天后宫。几个世纪以来的福建，象征海洋庇佑的女神妈祖始终深深扎根于人们的精神与文化生活中。世世代代的闽人以海为生，他们的家族与海潮共息，与浪声为伴，妈祖便是守护他们平安归航的神灵。即使漂泊到万里之外，福建移民依然将妈祖的影响带往异乡，在台湾、东南亚乃至新加坡建立起一座座香火鼎盛的妈祖庙。天后宫便是这份信仰的圣地，承载着人们对海神的敬畏与崇敬。
The temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. At the heart of the temple, the statue of Mazu sits serene and dignified, often clothed in bright embroidered robes and wearing a crown of pearls. Flanking her are statues of her two loyal generals—Qianliyan and Shunfeng’er, said to help her see and hear everything happening across the seas. Red lanterns with many benedictory words line the eaves. Intricate stone carvings of dragons, phoenixes, and waves decorate the roof and doorways, evoking the temple’s connection to the ocean.
这座庙宇作为世界文化遗产的一部分。妈祖端坐于庙宇正中，神情庄严而安详，身披色彩鲜艳、绣工精美的长袍，头戴闪耀着珍珠光泽的冠冕。她的两侧立着千里眼与顺风耳的塑像，据传她们协助妈祖洞察海内外的风云变幻。檐下悬挂的红灯笼上书写众多的祝福语。屋顶与门道间，精雕细琢的龙凤与海浪纹饰交相辉映，诉说着庙宇与海洋血脉相连的深厚渊源。
In just one day, I visited numerous temples, each representing a distinct religious tradition. Next, I arrived at the Chengtian Temple which is a quiet and historically rich Buddhist sanctuary. Unlike larger and crowded temples full of tourists, Chengtian Temple is tranquil and calm. Though it may not draw tourists in large numbers, Chengtian Temple remains a living temple, still functioning with monks, prayers, and rituals.
短短一天，我已走访了众多寺庙，每一座都承载着独特的宗教传统与精神内涵。随后，我来到了承天寺这是一处静谧祥和、古韵悠长的佛教圣地。不同于那些香火鼎盛、游人如织的大型寺院，这里始终保持着从容与清净。或许它并不以规模与名声吸引大量游客，但殿宇之间依旧生机盎然：僧侣的诵经声、虔诚的祈祷与庄重的法事，依然如千百年来般流转不息。
First built in the Song Dynasty, Chengtian Temple has undergone numerous reconstructions across the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. The name “Chengtian” (承天) literally means “receiving the mandate of Heaven” . As part of the UNESCO-listed heritage landscape, it shows how different religions coexisted peacefully in ancient Quanzhou. For the temple, there is nothing special but simple. The elegant layout follows traditional Chinese symmetry, with moss covered tiled roofs, historical wooden beams, and peaceful open courtyards. There is a small pagoda on top of the roof. It represents a connection between the earthly world and the spiritual realm and marks the temple as a sacred space where the divine and human meet.
承天寺始建于宋代，历经元、明、清三代多次修葺。其名“承天”，寓意“承受天命、顺应天道”。作为联合国教科文组织世界遗产的一部分，它见证了古代泉州多元宗教和谐共存的历史画卷。寺庙本身并不以奢华取胜，却以古朴而动人心弦。中轴对称的布局、覆以青瓦的屋顶、古韵悠长的木梁、静谧开敞的庭院，无不透露着传统建筑的雅致。屋脊之上，那座小巧的塔宛如天地之间的纽带，寓意神与人相会于此。
The UNESCO World Heritage site “Quanzhou: Emporium of the World in Song-Yuan China” includes a total of 22 component sites like Kaiyuan Temple, Qingjing Mosque, and Tianhou Temple. Luoyang Bridge is one of them as well. Built during the Northern Song Dynasty, Luoyang Bridge is renowned for being the first stone bridge in China built over tidal waters. It was constructed using raft foundations and oyster reef technology. Workers placed oysters at the base of stone piers to bind the underwater structures together. This ecological method made the foundation resilient to tides, erosion, and currents.
When I walked across the bridge over 800 meters long, I noticed rows of stone piers standing steadily in the river. I could imagine its history of connecting the bustling port city with inland roads, facilitating the movement of goods, people, and ideas during the height of the Maritime Silk Road.
联合国教科文组织评选出的世界遗产 “泉州：宋元时期的世界海洋商贸中心”涵盖了开元寺、清净寺、天后宫等22处历史遗迹，洛阳桥便是其中的重要一员。始建于北宋的洛阳桥，是中国第一座建于潮水上的石桥，以其独特的筏式基础与牡蛎礁筑造工艺闻名于世。工匠们在石墩底部铺设牡蛎，让其在水下自然生长，将结构紧密相连。这种生态智慧不仅稳固了桥基，还能抵御潮汐、侵蚀与急流的冲击。
漫步在这座长达八百余米的古桥上，只见一列列石墩如守望的卫士，静立于河面之中，历经千年风潮而不移。仿佛穿越时空，我能想象它在海上丝绸之路繁盛之际，如何将这座繁华的港口城市与内陆大道紧密相连，承载着货物、商旅与思想交流的使命。
I stayed in Quanzhou for two days. My first day concentrated on the humanity heritages like old streets in the old city and my second day was on some natural scenes. Qingyuan Mountain in the north of city is a place where visitors come to reconnect with nature. It is also a spiritual landmark, a place where nature, history, and Daoist thought merge into quiet harmony. Daoism is about understanding how the world works and becoming one with it.
我在泉州停留了两天。第一天沉浸于古城的人文遗产，徜徉于街巷之间；第二天则走向自然，寻访城北的清源山。这里不仅是重拾自然之美的胜地，更是一座精神地标。青山环抱间，自然、历史与道家思想在此交融，织就出一幅静谧而和谐的画卷。道家倡导顺应天地的运行规律，天人合一。
The Giant Stone Statue of Laozi is the mountain’s most famous feature. It was carved in the Song Dynasty. This makes Qingyuan Mountain a nationally significant site of Daoist worship and Laozi veneration. According to local legend and Daoist belief, Qingyuan Mountain is one of the places where Laozi, the ancient philosopher and founder of Daoism once visited, meditated, and eventually transcended the mortal world to become a Daoist deity. The inscription “老子天下第一” carved in front of the Laozi statue means “Laozi is the greatest under Heaven”. In Daoist tradition, Laozi is considered the origin of all wisdom, the one who taught the Dao—the Way that governs all things.
清源山最负盛名的景观，莫过于宋代雕刻的巨型老子石像。正因这尊雕像，清源山自古便被视为全国重要的道教圣地与宗教中心。相传哲学家、道教创始人老子曾在此驻足参悟，最终超脱凡尘、羽化登仙。石像前镌刻的“老子天下第一”四字，不仅彰显着“对老子作为天下第一圣人”的尊崇，更寓意他是道即万物法则的传授者与万世智慧的源泉。
This mountain is not only spiritually important in Daoist tradition, but also celebrated for its natural beauty. The mountain was covered in lush vegetation like ancient cypress trees lining the stone paths and a mix of evergreen and deciduous trees. I climbed from bottom to top along this road using nearly 2 hours.
这座山在道教传统中享有崇高的精神地位，同时也以其秀丽的自然风光闻名遐迩。山间植被繁茂，石板路两旁古柏参天，常绿与落叶乔木交织成四季更迭的画卷。我循着这条小径，自山脚而上，历时近两个小时，方抵达峰顶。
The mountain was dotted with weathered granite boulders, many of them engraved with ancient and durable calligraphy. These rocks were moss-covered, shaded by ferns and wildflowers. Natural springs bubbled from the mountain’s base and flowed gently through these rocks.
山间错落散布着经岁月侵蚀而风化的花岗岩巨石。许多岩面镌刻着古老的书法，字迹遒劲而沧桑。青苔沿着石缝蔓延，蕨类植物和野花掩映其间。山脚下，清冽的泉水汩汩涌出，绕过石间缓缓流淌。
On this early morning, mist rolled over the mountain ridges, creating a dreamlike effect. The view from higher altitudes offered a glimpse of the city through drifting clouds, a striking contrast between the spiritual landscape and modern life. I could roughly see the outline of West Lake faraway. This shifting mist seemed to reflect the Daoist idea of impermanence, of the seen reality and unseen future constantly transforming.
清晨，薄雾如纱，轻绕山峦，仿佛为大地披上了一层梦境。登高远眺，云雾间隐约显现出城市的轮廓，灵性的山水与喧嚣的都市交织成一幅对比鲜明的画卷。远方，西湖的身影若隐若现。那一缕缭绕不散的雾气，恰似道家所言的“无常”。可见与不可见、现实与未知，在流转与变化中相互交融。
In the afternoon, before I left, I took some time to visit the West Lake which is opposite to my hotel. Though not as famous as the West Lake in Hangzhou, it is still a beautiful, tranquil urban lake park that offers a peaceful escape and is infused with layers of historical charm. It is designed in the traditional Chinese garden style with curved stone bridges over calm water, lotus-filled ponds that bloom beautifully in summer, willow trees trailing their long branches into the lake, and graceful, poetic pavilions. The lake is far away from the city center, and I enjoyed a natural quietude.
下午离开前，我特意抽空去了酒店对面的西湖。它或许不及杭州西湖那般闻名遐迩，却依然是一处清雅静美的城市湖泊公园，既为人们提供一方悠然栖息的天地，又蕴藏着深厚的历史韵味。园林布局沿袭传统中式风格，曲折的石桥横跨在澄澈的水面之上，池塘中荷花正值盛夏的灿烂绽放，垂柳轻垂长枝拂水，亭台楼阁点缀其间，透出几分诗意与古韵。远离喧嚣的市中心，这里的清风与湖光，让我尽情享受片刻难得的宁静。
The Quanzhou Museum opposite to the beautiful West Lake provides deep insights into the city’s maritime, religious, and cultural history, particularly during its golden age as a major port on the Maritime Silk Road. There are rich, immersive exhibitions suitable for history lovers, students, and general travelers.
泉州博物馆坐落在秀丽的西湖之畔，与湖水相望。馆内全面呈现了泉州悠久的航海、宗教与文化历史，尤其生动再现了这座古城作为海上丝绸之路重要港口的辉煌年代。丰富多彩的展览内容兼具知识性与趣味性，无论是历史爱好者、莘莘学子，还是闲暇漫游的游客，都能在此收获一段难忘的文化之旅。
There are collections of rare Nestorian Christian tombstones, Arabic inscriptions, and ancient epitaphs. Many pieces were unearthed from cemeteries of foreign communities who lived in medieval Quanzhou. The porcelain exhibitions are a highlight of the Maritime Silk Road displays, showcasing the city’s central role in ceramic trade and production during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Blanc de Chine (Dehua white porcelain) is famous for its smooth, ivory-white glaze and is exported widely to Southeast Asia and Europe.
这里珍藏着稀有的基督教墓碑、阿拉伯文碑刻与古代墓志铭，其中许多出土于中世纪泉州外国社群的墓地。瓷器展区则是“海上丝绸之路”展览的亮点，生动呈现宋元时期泉州在陶瓷生产与贸易中的枢纽地位。德化白瓷以其温润如象牙的釉色闻名于世，远销东南亚与欧洲，见证了泉州海贸的辉煌与繁荣。
Inside, there is a large-scale model of ancient Quanzhou city, offering visitors a panoramic and immersive view of how the city looked during its golden age in the Song-Yuan period. I could clearly see the sinuous city walls, towering main gates (like Chaotian Gate), crossing streets, and the two towers of Kaiyuan Temple and immersed in its old history.
馆内陈设着一座宏伟的泉州古城模型，宛如将宋元盛世的辉煌凝固于眼前。城墙蜿蜒环绕，气势恢宏的朝天门巍然矗立，街道纵横交错，开元寺双塔相对而立，使人仿佛穿越时空，沉浸于古城的繁华与韵味之中。
During my trip I tasted the Minnan cuisine, which is especially representative of the southern Fujian region, including cities like Quanzhou, Xiamen, and Zhangzhou. It is known for its refined techniques, fresh ingredients, delicate flavors, and a touch of sweetness. The Four Fruit Soup is a cold dessert with four toppings like transparent jelly cubes, sweetened red beans, soft lotus seeds, and crisp Nata de coco. It is lightly sweetened and topped with condensed milk, taste not so saturated.
旅途中，我品尝到地道的闽南菜。它是福建南部饮食文化的精粹，涵盖泉州、厦门、漳州等地的风味。闽南菜以精湛的烹饪技艺、新鲜食材、细腻而层次丰富的口感，以及那一抹恰到好处的甜味而闻名。其中，四果汤是一道沁人心脾的冷甜品，碗中盛着晶莹的果冻块、香甜的红豆、软糯的莲子与爽脆的椰果，四种配料交织成清凉的乐章，再淋上一圈浓郁的炼乳，甜而不腻。
The Oyster omelette is one of the most iconic and beloved dishes in Minnan cuisine, widely enjoyed in Quanzhou as well as in Taiwan and parts of Southeast Asia like Singapore. It is a must-try street food that perfectly captures the flavors and textures unique to the coastal Fujianese palate. It a savory dish made with fresh oysters and eggs. Sweet potato starch slurry is mixed into the egg to give the dish a chewy texture. Chopped leafy greens or scallions are added. It is pan-fried on a flat griddle until crispy on the bottom and soft on top. A key part of the dish is the sweet-sour chili sauce that’s generously spooned over the omelette after it’s cooked. It can be a satisfying snack for a seafood lover like me.
海蛎煎是闽南菜中最具代表性也最受喜爱的菜菜品，在泉州、台湾以及新加坡等东南亚地区都享有盛誉。它是街头小吃里的璀璨明珠，将福建沿海的独特风味与口感完美呈现。选用新鲜饱满的牡蛎，搭配鸡蛋与红薯淀粉浆，煎制出的蛋饼外脆内嫩，带着恰到好处的韧性。再拌入翠绿的蔬菜或清香的葱段，于热腾腾的铁板上煎至金黄酥香。出锅后，淋上一勺酸甜微辣的酱汁，咸香与酸辣并存。对于钟情海鲜的食客而言，这道小吃绝对是味蕾的满足。
Ginger Duck is a traditional and deeply flavorful dish of Minnan cuisine. It is made of aged ginger with stronger spiciness and tender duck meat. The dish is usually simmered in a clay pot over low heat, allowing the ingredients to infuse and develop a rich, savory broth. Sesame oil is used to stir-fry the ginger and rice wine is added, both for flavor and warmth. Herbs and spices like goji berries, red dates, star anise, and angelica root are included for their traditional medicinal value. The taste is nice, a bit warming, spicy and lightly sweet.
姜母鸭是闽南传统名肴，以浓郁醇厚的风味著称。精选肥嫩鸭肉，佐以辛香四溢的老姜，以芝麻油文火慢炒，激发姜香的同时，渗出温暖的热意。随后倾入米酒，酒香与姜辣交织，驱寒暖身。再加入枸杞、红枣、八角、当归等具传统药食价值的香料，历经陶罐慢火细炖。入口鲜美，辛辣中透着甘甜，温暖中蕴含滋补。
Exploring Quanzhou has been a deeply immersive journey. It felt like stepping into a living tapestry woven from centuries of history, culture, and spiritual harmony. Wandering through its ancient streets, majetic temples, and bustling markets, I sensed the city’s heartbeat pulsing with the stories of diverse peoples who once gathered here as traders or pilgrims. Quanzhou offers me a rare glimpse into a crossroads of world cultures — where Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, and Daoism coexist peacefully; where the legacy of the Maritime Silk Road still echoes in every stone bridge and mosque; where time slows down amidst verdant mountains and tranquil lakes.
泉州之行宛如一场深情的时光之旅，让人沉醉其中，仿佛步入了一幅由数百年历史、文化与精神交织而成的绚丽画卷。行走在古老的街巷、庄严的寺庙和熙攘的市集间，我仿佛能触摸到这座城市的跳动脉搏，那是多元民族的故事在时光长河中交织的回响。泉州展现了作为世界文化的交汇之地，佛教、伊斯兰教、基督教与道教和谐共处；海上丝绸之路的昔日遗产依旧在每一座石桥、每一座庙宇中低语。时光在翠绿群山与宁静湖泊间缓缓流淌，带给游客无尽的宁静与回味。
Gone like the wind 