素帖山的徒步之旅
Doi Suthep is a mountain located in Northern Thailand, just a short distance from the city of Chiang Mai. It stands at an elevation of about 1,676 meters above sea level and is part of the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park, a protected area known for its rich biodiversity, lush forests, and stunning viewpoints. Hiking to Doi Suthep is highly recommended when visiting Chiang Mai. It offers breathtaking views of lush forests, cascading waterfalls, and panoramic vistas over the ancient city.
素帖山位于泰国北部,距离清迈市不远。海拔约1,676米,是素帖山国家公园的一部分。素帖山国家公园是一个保护区,以其丰富的生物多样性、茂密的森林和壮丽的景色而闻名。游览清迈时,游客可以徒步前往素帖山。从这里可以欣赏到茂密的森林、层叠的瀑布和古城的全景等各种令人叹为观止的风景。

My trip started from the Chiang Mai university which is located at the foot of Doi Suthep mountain. It has well-maintained gardens, tree-lined walkways, and lakes, creating a peaceful atmosphere. With Doi Suthep as a backdrop, the campus feels like a retreat from the busy city, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and forests. The air is fresher, and the abundance of greenery gives it a tranquil, almost park-like environment that is perfect for study and relaxation.
我的旅程从位于素帖山脚下的清迈大学开始。这个校园里有精心维护的花园、绿树成荫的人行道和湖泊,营造出一种宁静的氛围。以素帖山为背景,校园感觉就像是远离喧嚣城市的世外桃源,在这里可以欣赏到周围群山和森林的壮丽景色。空气清新,绿植茂盛,营造出一种宁静、近乎公园般的环境,非常适合学习和放松。

One of the most picturesque spots on the campus is its iconic Ang Kaew Reservoir, a serene lake bordered by trees and walking paths. It’s a popular spot for visitors, providing breathtaking views of Doi Suthep in the background. The reflection of the surrounding greenery on the lake’s calm waters creates a tranquil atmosphere perfect for a peaceful stroll. I arrived at the lakeside at around 9 am. Many people walked around the lake.
校园里最美丽的景点就是标志性的安卡沃水库,这是一片宁静的湖泊,周围环绕着树木和步行道。它是热门旅游景点,背景是令人惊叹的素帖山美景。周围的绿色植物倒映在平静的湖面上,营造出一种宁静的氛围,非常适合悠闲地散步。我上午9点左右抵达湖边。一大早就有许多人在湖边散步。

Adding to the charm of the campus are several fountains scattered throughout the grounds. These fountains, particularly the ones near the main entrance and academic buildings, bring a refreshing and calming presence to the university’s environment. Combined with the abundance of trees, plants, and flowers, they contribute to the feeling of being immersed in nature.
几座分布的喷泉也为校园增添了魅力。尤其是主入口和教学楼附近的喷泉为大学环境带来了清新和平静的感觉。加上丰富的树木、植物和鲜花,让人们仿佛沉浸在大自然中。

People usually take this road to Doi Suthep, which is known as Route 1004. It is a winding and scenic journey that starts from Chiang Mai university and ascends the mountain toward the famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The road is paved in good condition. The length of the road is around 9km which is a challenge to most hikers especially in such a hot weather. Of course, tourists can choose to take cars up the mountain.
人们通常沿着这条1004 号公路登上素帖山。这是一条蜿蜒而风景优美的旅程,从清迈大学出发,沿着山路一直向著名的素帖山双龙寺前进。这条路修建得很好。路长约 9公里,在如此炎热的天气里对大多数徒步旅行者来说是一个挑战。当然,游客也可以选择乘车上山。

I took around 3 hours to walk to the summit. There are several viewpoints and temples along the road which make the trip no so boring. Wat Sri Soda is a serene Buddhist temple located at the base of Doi Suthep mountain. It is surrounded by greenery, making it a peaceful retreat away from the busier parts of Chiang Mai. It is a wonderful stop for those interested in exploring lesser-known temples in Chiang Mai, as well as for hikers looking to start the scenic trek up Doi Suthep.
我花了大约3个小时步行到山顶。沿路有几处观景点和寺庙,一路游览下来旅途就不会特别无聊。Wat Sri Soda 是一座宁静的佛教寺庙,位于素帖山脚下。它周围绿树成荫,是远离清迈繁华地区的一处宁静的休憩地。对于那些有兴趣探索清迈那些鲜为人知的寺庙以及想要开始徒步攀登素帖山的徒步旅行的徒步旅行者来说,这是一个绝佳的驻足点。

Huay Kaew Waterfall is a delicate and easily accessible waterfall located near the base of Doi Suthep mountain. The waterfall consists of multiple small cascades tumbling over rocks and boulders, with pools of water forming at various points. I could dip my feet in the cool water and relax by the stream. Though not very large, it is tranquil and provides a break from the city’s heat.
华凯瀑布位于素帖山脚下,是一个精致且交通便利的瀑布。瀑布由多个小瀑布组成,瀑布从岩石上倾泻而下,在各个地方形成水洼。旅途中将脚浸入清凉的水中,在溪边放松身心缓解疲劳是一个很惬意的事情。虽然瀑布不是很大,但却很宁静,可以让人暂时远离城市的炎热。

The waterfall doesn’t plunge in one dramatic drop but rather consists of several smaller cascades that flow down the rocks, creating a series of small falls. The stream weaves its way down the mountain, and small paths and trails run alongside parts of the watercourse. These pathways without many people are often used by hikers or visitors exploring the nearby area. Huay Kaew Waterfall is also the starting point for some of the more adventurous hikes up Doi Suthep, including the Monk’s Trail, which leads to Wat Pha Lat.
瀑布并非一泻而下,而是由几道较小的瀑布组成,溪水顺着岩石流下,形成一系列小瀑布。溪流一路蜿蜒而下,一条小径也伴随着溪流一路向下。徒步旅行者或者冒险家经常会使用这条人迹罕至的小径。华凯瀑布也是素帖山徒步旅行中通往帕拉寺的僧侣小径的起点。

Wat Pha Lat, also known as “Monastery at the Sloping Rock,” was originally built as a resting point for pilgrims making the journey up the mountain to the revered Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Legend has it that it was one of the spots where a sacred white elephant rested while carrying the Buddha’s relic up Doi Suthep, a significant event that led to the construction of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep at the mountain’s summit.
帕拉寺又名“斜岩寺”,最初是为前往素帖山的朝圣者修建的休息点。传说这里是一头神圣的白象在抬着佛祖的遗体上山时休息的地方,这一轶闻促使在山上修建了这座帕拉寺。

In my opinion, it was one historic temple really worth a visit. If the tourists took the car directly up towards the summit, they would have no such a chance to visit it. Wat Pha Lat is nestled deep in the jungle, surrounded by towering trees, bamboo groves, and the soothing sounds of a nearby stream. Its hidden location gives it a mystical, peaceful atmosphere that feels far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city.
这是一座我心目中特别值得一游的历史寺庙。如果游客直接乘车前往山顶,就没有机会参观它了。帕拉寺坐落在丛林深处,周围环绕着参天大树、竹林,还能听见附近溪流的潺潺流水声。它隐蔽的位置带来了一种神秘宁静的氛围,让人感觉远离了城市的喧嚣。

The temple’s architecture blends harmoniously with the natural landscape. Its structures, including a beautiful Buddha statue, meditation pavilions, and a stone chedi (stupa), are scattered along a hillside overlooking the valley below. Many of the temple buildings and shrines are adorned with intricate carvings and statues that have been weathered by time.
寺庙的建筑与自然景观融为一体。包括美丽的佛像、冥想亭和石佛塔等建筑散布在俯瞰山谷的山坡上。许多建筑和神殿里都装饰有精美的雕刻和雕像,许多雕像已经随着时间的流逝而风化。

Unlike many of the grand and golden temples in Bangkok, the unique Lanna-style architecture in this temple blends harmoniously with the surrounding jungle. The temple grounds are filled with beautiful stone pathways and staircases that wind through the jungle. The use of stone gives the temple a natural, earthy feel. Many of these pathways are lined with Buddhist statues, such as serene Buddhas and mythical creatures like nagas.
与曼谷许多宏伟而金碧辉煌的寺庙不同,这座独特的兰纳风格建筑与周围的丛林融为一体。寺庙内遍布美丽的石路和蜿蜒穿过丛林的楼梯。这种原始的石头给寺庙带来了一种自然朴实的感觉。许多石路两旁都摆放着如平和的佛像和龙等神话生物的雕像。

Wat Pha Lat features several small pagodas which are typical in Buddhist temple design. These structures are often adorned with delicate carvings and designs, including lotus motifs and floral patterns. Though modest in size, they stand as symbols of spiritual significance and are important elements of the temple’s layout.
帕拉寺还有几个小塔,它们在佛教寺庙中是非常典型的设计。这些结构通常装饰有包括莲花图案和花卉图案等精致的雕刻。它们大小适中具有精神意义的象征,也是圣殿布局的重要元素。

Scattered around the temple grounds are open-air pavilions where monks and visitors can sit in quiet reflection. Unlike more monumental temples, Wat Pha Lat’s architecture serves to complement the forested environment, offering a serene space for meditation, reflection, and quiet spiritual practice.
散落在寺庙周围的是露天凉亭,僧侣和游客可以安静地坐在那里休息。与一些巨大的寺庙不同,帕拉寺四周都是森林,为佛教徒冥想沉思提供了安静的空间。

It was an excruciating journey from mountain bottom to the top under a scorching sunlight. Fortunately, there are some viewpoints along the road for visitors to have a short break and get a panoramic view of Chiang Mai city. The blue sky is exceptionally clear which is dotted by white clouds. Some vendors will sell grilled pork or chicken skewers, marinated in a mix of Thai herbs and spices or fried sausages and coconuts at these places. It was really a necessary supply of food and drink for hikers like me after walking more than two hours.
头顶烈日一路从山底到山顶这真的是一段令人窒息的旅程。幸运的是,路上有一些观景台,让游客短暂休息并欣赏清迈城的全景。这天的蓝天异常晴朗,朵朵白云点缀着苍天。一些小贩会在这些地方出售融合泰国草药和香料的烤猪肉鸡肉串,炸香肠和椰子。奋力徒步两个多小时后,像我这样的徒步旅行者确实急需这些食物和饮料补给。

I continued to walk upwards until I saw this waterfall. It was very close to the destination of this journey – Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Rap Sadet is a beautiful, multi-tiered waterfall with several cascades that flow down rocks and boulders into small pools. The waterfall isn’t very tall but has a gentle and serene flow. It is surrounded by thick forest and lush vegetation, and there are no tourists here. The dense greenery, the sound of the cascading water, and the cooler mountain air make it a refreshing escape from the heat of Chiang Mai.
继续往上走当我看到这个瀑布时距离这次旅程的目的地——素帖双龙寺已经很近了。Rap Sadet 是一个美丽的多层瀑布,有几条瀑布从岩石和巨石上流下汇集成小水潭。这条瀑布不是很高,水流平缓而宁静。它周围是茂密的森林和茂盛的植被,几乎没有游客。茂密的绿植、瀑布的流水声和凉爽的山间空气,使这里成为逃离清迈避暑之地。

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of the most iconic and revered temples in Thailand. The temple is an important pilgrimage site for Thai Buddhists, particularly during religious holidays. There are so many tourists here. Before visiting it, tourists must climb up this super high steps. The 306-step staircase is lined with intricately decorated naga figures that symbolize protection. It is believed that climbing the staircase is part of the spiritual journey.
素帖双龙寺是泰国最具标志性和最受尊敬的寺庙之一。这座寺庙是泰国佛教徒的重要朝圣地,尤其是在宗教节日期间游客信众众多。在参观寺庙之前,游客必须爬上图中这个超极高的台阶。这座306级台阶两侧是装饰精美的纳迦雕像,象征着保护意义。人们相信攀爬高梯亦是精神修行的一部分。

The central feature of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the golden chedi, which is visible from many parts of Chiang Mai. The chedi is covered in gold leaf and shines brightly in the sunlight, making it a striking symbol of the temple. It enshrines the sacred Buddha relic, and worshippers walk around it in a clockwise direction as part of their prayers.
素帖双龙寺最引人注目的就是金色的佛塔,即使从清迈城的许多地方都可以远远看到它。佛塔上覆有金箔,在阳光下闪闪发光,是寺庙的最具标志性的建筑。佛塔内供奉着佛陀的舍利,信徒们会顺时针绕着佛塔祈祷。

The temple’s architecture is a prime example of Lanna-style design, with intricately carved wooden structures, golden umbrellas, and detailed murals depicting the life of the Buddha. The roofs are adorned with gold and red, typical of Northern Thai temple design. Throughout the temple grounds, I can find statues of Buddha, shrines, and small pagodas, all contributing to the sense of reverence. Large bronze bells are located throughout the temple grounds, which visitors can ring for good luck.
寺庙的建筑是兰纳风格设计的典范,拥有精雕细琢的木结构、金色的装饰伞和描绘佛祖生平的精美壁画。屋顶装饰着金色和红色,这是泰国北部寺庙设计的典型风格。在整个寺庙中可以看到众多佛像、神龛和小塔,所有这些都反应了对它的尊崇。寺庙各处都有大铜钟,游客可以敲响铜钟祈求好运。

Founded in 1383, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep has a rich history linked to the legend of a sacred white elephant. According to the legend, the elephant carried a holy relic of the Buddha to the top of Doi Suthep and stopped at the site where the temple now stands, indicating that this was the place to build the temple. The relic is said to be enshrined in the temple’s central chedi. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a symbol of Chiang Mai’s religious and cultural heritage. It is not only an architectural marvel but also a deeply spiritual site that draws tourists seeking to connect with Thai Buddhist culture.
素帖双龙寺建于1383年,历史悠久,与一头神圣的白象传说息息相关。据传说,这头白象驮着佛陀的圣物来到素帖山顶,并停在了现在寺庙所在的位置,这些征兆表明这里就是建造寺庙的地方。据说,圣物就供奉在寺庙中央的佛塔。这座寺庙是清迈宗教和文化遗产的象征。它不仅是一座建筑奇迹,也是一个精神圣地,吸引了游客来此了解泰国佛教文化。

This temple is not the summit of this mountain. If visitors continue further up the road, they will reach Bhubing Palace, a royal residence known for its beautiful gardens, and eventually Doi Pui Village. After visiting this temple, I took a songthaew (shared taxi) back down to the city since I didn’t have enough energy to continue hiking. As the one day journey to Doi Suthep comes to an end, the golden glow of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep fades into the soft hues of dusk. Such a trip is really exhausting but mentally refreshing. The journey may be over, but the memory of this experience will always linger.
这座寺庙并不是这座山的顶峰。如果游客继续沿着这条路往前走,他们将到达以美丽花园而闻名的皇宫蒲屏宫,并最终到达 Doi Pui 村。参观完这座寺庙后,由于没有足够的精力继续徒步旅行,我只能乘坐双条车(一种共乘的出租车)返回市区。随着前往素帖山的一日游结束,远眺素帖山的金色光芒逐渐消失在黄昏的柔和色调中。这样的旅行躯体着实疲惫,但精神上却很放松。这次旅程也许已经结束,但旅行的经历却将弥留在脑海中永远挥之不去。