Tag: Fujian

Life Inside Fujian’s Ancient Earthen Homes

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走进福建古土楼的烟火人生

Fujian Tulou are traditional communal residences built by the Hakka and other Han Chinese people in the mountainous areas of Fujian Province. These large, earthen buildings are circular or square, designed to house multiple families, functioning both as homes and fortresses. Constructed between the 12th and 20th centuries, tulou structures are made from rammed earth, mixed with stones, bamboo, wood, and other natural materials. Their thick walls provide insulation and protection from bandits and natural disasters. Inside, the buildings are arranged around a central courtyard, with rooms for storage, cooking, sleeping, and socializing.

福建土楼，是福建省山区由客家人及其他汉族群体共同建造的传统集体居所。这些宏伟的建筑多呈圆形或方形，可容纳众多家庭同住，既是安居之所，也是防御之堡。土楼自12世纪起兴建，延续至20世纪，主要以夯土筑成，并辅以石块、竹材、木料等天然材料。厚实的墙体既能隔热御寒，又可抵御盗匪侵扰与自然灾害。其内部空间环绕中央庭院而布置，庭院内设有储藏间、灶房、卧室与公共活动空间。

I visited the Nanjing area in the end of 2024. The village scene in this region is a picturesque blend of traditional architecture, lush nature, and communal rural life. Rolling hills and mountains surround the villages, covered with bamboo groves, pine forests, and terraced tea fields. Clear streams run through the valleys, beside narrow stone paths. Fog settles over the mountains in the early morning, creating a mystical, tranquil atmosphere.

2024年底，我来到南靖游览。这里的乡村景致宛如画卷，传统建筑与葱郁的自然风光、淳朴的乡村生活交织在一起。连绵起伏的丘陵环抱着村落，竹林、松林与层层梯田茶园点缀山野。清澈的溪流在谷间潺潺流淌，两旁蜿蜒着古老的石板路。清晨时分，薄雾弥漫群山，氤氲出一种静谧而神秘的气息。

Life in these villages follows the rhythm of nature. The air is filled with the scent of wood smoke, fresh soil, and steaming food. Stone-paved paths wind through the village, often lined with moss and wildflowers. Several tulous are grouped together, forming a cluster of earthen castles amidst the green backdrop.

这些村庄的生活仿佛随自然的节拍缓缓展开。空气中弥散着柴火的余温、泥土的清新与热气腾腾食物的芬芳。石板小路蜿蜒穿行于村中，两侧常覆着青苔，点缀着野花。几座土楼错落而立，如同质朴的堡垒，静静镶嵌在层叠的绿意之间。

My travel in Fujian was really refreshing for me. As I stepped away from the fast-paced, high-rise rhythm of life in Singapore, I felt a deep wave of relief and excitement wash over me. It was as if the noise, the deadlines, and the constant rush melted away the moment I arrived in this serene village. The tranquil rhythm of rural life: the slow mornings, the sound of roosters, the sight of villagers tending to their fields awakened something in me. I felt no longer tethered to my phone or the clock and found the meaning of life.

福建之行让我身心焕然一新。远离新加坡快节奏、高楼林立的都市生活，我仿佛卸下了沉重的枷锁，一股久违的解脱与欣喜油然而生。所有的喧嚣、deadline与无休止的奔波，都在我踏入这片宁静村落的瞬间悄然消散。这里的生活节奏恬淡安然：清晨的微风伴着公鸡的啼鸣，田间劳作的身影映入眼帘，这一切唤醒了我内心深处的宁静与安定。我仿佛挣脱了手机与时钟的羁绊，重新找回了生活的意义。

Hegui Lou is one of the most remarkable and unique tulou structures. It was my first tulou visited in this area. Built in 1732, Hegui Lou is a square-shaped building, with four stories and over 200 rooms. The name “Hegui” means “Harmony and Nobility”, symbolizing unity and high moral values of the clan. I was standing at the entrance set within thick rammed earth walls. The wooden door panels are thick and reinforced with iron studs and metal strips. Over the door, I found a solemn and ancient wooden plaque bearing its name as well as poetic couplets written on red scrolls.

和贵楼是当地最引人注目极具特色的土楼之一，也是我在此参观的第一座土楼。始建于1732年，它呈方形结构，共四层，拥有两百余间房。楼名“和贵”，寓意和谐与高贵，象征着家族的团结与高尚品德。踏入厚实的夯土墙之内，首先映入眼帘的是以铁钉与金属条牢牢加固的沉重木门。门上悬挂着一方题有楼名的木匾，两侧则贴着写有红字的对联，庄重而古雅。

What makes it especially unique is that it was built on a marshland, an uncommon choice for such heavy structures. Its foundation is made of wooden stakes, driven deep into the soft soil. The building’s rammed earth walls, more than a meter thick, have withstood floods, earthquakes, and wars for nearly 300 years. Above the entrance are some small observation windows, used historically to monitor approaching visitors or defend against intruders. Red lanterns hang along the eaves and add a splash of color and warmth to the austere and simple appearance.

它的独特之处在于建于沼泽之上，这在如此厚重的建筑中极为罕见。地基由木桩深深扎入松软的泥土，以支撑整个庞然大物。厚逾一米的夯土墙，经受了近三百年的洪水、地震与战火的洗礼，依然巍然屹立。入口上方开有数扇小窗，昔日用于监视访客或抵御外敌。屋檐下悬挂的红灯笼，则为这素朴的外观平添一抹温暖与生气。

Behind the towering earthen walls of Hegui Lou, at the edge of a gently sloping field, lies a lush patch of sugar cane. The tall, green stalks sway lightly in the breeze. The field is small but thriving, a reminder of the self-sufficient lifestyle the residents have upheld for generations. A local resident fed long stalks of sugar cane into a hand-cranked press. The machine groans slightly as the stalks are crushed, releasing a stream of cool, pale green juice.

和贵楼高耸的土墙背后，在缓坡田野的尽头，生长着一片繁茂的甘蔗。高大而碧绿的甘蔗秆随微风轻轻摇曳。虽不成规模，却生机盎然，仿佛映照着当地人世代自给自足的生活。只见一位居民将长长的甘蔗送入手摇榨汁机，伴随轻微的嘎吱声，坚韧的蔗秆被慢慢压碎，涓涓淡绿色的汁液随之流出，清凉甘甜。

I lived in the small town called Yun Shuiyao for two days. Its name, which translates to “Ballad of Cloud and Water”, perfectly captures the town’s dreamlike atmosphere. It is surrounded by lush green hills and rice paddies. The streets of Yunshuiyao are paved with smooth river stones, worn by time and footsteps. Traditional wooden houses line the narrow lanes and their dark tiled roofs and red lanterns show the town’s historic charm.

我在云水谣小镇住了两天。小镇的名字完美地诠释了如梦似幻的氛围。周围环绕着郁郁葱葱的青山和稻田。云水谣的街道铺满了光滑的河石，饱经岁月和脚步的侵蚀。传统的木屋排列在狭窄的小巷里，深色的瓦片屋顶和红色的灯笼彰显着小镇的历史魅力。

The most iconic feature of the town is the meandering river that flows gently through it, reflecting the sky and the trees on its calm surface. Along its banks, there are massive ancient banyan trees, some over 800 years old, with their gnarled roots sprawling across stone paths and their branches forming a canopy overhead. I really enjoyed the life here, listening to the soft murmur of the stream and the whisper of wind through bamboo. Time seemed to slow down here.

小镇最具标志性的景观，莫过于那条蜿蜒流淌的河流。平静的水面如一面明镜，将天空与树木的倒影温柔地揽入怀中。河岸两旁矗立着参天古树，其中不少已有八百余年树龄，盘根错节的根须蜿蜒在石板路上，枝叶繁茂，织就一片片清凉的浓荫。在这里生活，我倍感宁静，耳畔萦绕着潺潺溪水与竹林间轻柔的风声，仿佛时光都慢了下来。

Yunshuiyao became well-known after it was featured in the Chinese romantic film “The Knot”. Scattered throughout Yunshuiyao are several well-preserved tulous, which have been home to generations of Hakka families. These earthen fortresses blend beautifully into the natural landscape, offering a sense of community, security, and tradition.

小镇因中国爱情电影《云水谣》的取景而名声远扬。云水谣田间点缀着几座保存完好的土楼，昔日是客家人世代安居的家园。土楼与周围的山水风光相映成趣，营造出浓厚的社区氛围、安宁的归属感与深厚的传统意蕴。

Huaiyuan Lou is the most well-preserved and architecturally representative tulou in Fujian Province. Built in 1905 during the late Qing Dynasty, it was constructed by the Jiang family, who were prosperous tea merchants and landowners. The name means ‘Cherishing Distant’ in Chinese. The structure is made with rammed earth walls, over 1 meter thick, supported by a wooden framework that has stood firm for over a century. There is only one heavily fortified gate connecting inside and outside.

怀远楼是福建省保存最完好、最具代表性的土楼。它建于清末民初的1905年，由富商兼地主蒋氏家族兴建，其名字意为“怀念远方”。楼体以夯土筑墙，厚逾一米，坚固的木构架支撑着整座建筑，百年风雨仍巍然屹立。楼内外仅开一扇坚固的大门供人们进出。

It has two concentric rings. The outer ring is four stories high, with 32 rooms per floor, housing sleeping quarters and storage. The timber beams, columns, and staircases are arranged in concentric rings to create tiers of rooms stacked three to five stories high. The upper structures are capped with tiled, slightly upturned eaves, supported by a web of timber rafters. Rainwater is efficiently drained into the inner courtyard. Wooden columns are joined by horizontal beams using traditional mortise-and-tenon techniques without nails.

它由两个同心圆环组成。外环高四层，每层设有32间房间，用作居舍和储藏室。木梁、木柱与楼梯环环相扣，形成三至五层高的层叠房间。上部结构铺以瓦片，屋檐微微翘起，由木椽稳稳支撑。雨水被巧妙地引入内院。木柱与横梁之间采用传统榫卯工艺，无需钉子即可紧密结合。

The inner ring is smaller and contains ancestral halls and communal spaces. Central to Hakka belief is the idea that deceased ancestors continue to watch over and protect their descendants. Showing respect through rituals ensures family prosperity and avoids misfortune. Ancestral hall with an altar, ancestral tablets, and painted couplets is the most important building. Wells, kitchens, and storerooms are placed in this area for communal use.

内环规模较小，内部设有祠堂与公共空间。客家人的信仰核心在于祖先会持续守护后代，当代人通过仪式对祖先表达敬意，以保家族兴旺、避祸免灾。祠堂是最为重要的建筑，内部设有祭坛、祖先牌位及对联。水井、厨房和储藏室亦位于此处，供居民日常使用。

This is the panoramic view. The central courtyard is paved with cobblestones, where daily life and communal events unfold. The interior reflects a highly organized lifestyle, with rooms assigned by generation and seniority. Decorative wooden carvings, ancestral tablets, and red lanterns enhance the cultural richness of the space.

这是庭院全景。中央庭院铺有鹅卵石，是日常生活和社区活动的场所。室内空间体现了高度有序的生活方式，房间按辈分和资历划分。装饰性的木雕、祖先牌位和红灯笼突现了这里的文化底蕴。

Unlike some older tulou, Huaiyuan Lou remains largely intact and still functions as a living residence. Residents still live in the building, maintaining traditional Hakka customs, such as ancestral worship, communal cooking, and shared farming. I was able to climb up the floors and see the local life. Outside wooden railings, freshly washed clothes are hung out to dry. Shirts, pants, and towels flap gently in the mountain breeze, swaying against the red backdrop of the wooden walls.

与一些年久失修的土楼不同，怀远楼几乎完好无损，如今仍作为民居使用。楼中的居民延续着传统客家习俗：祭祖、共炊、共耕，生活气息浓厚。我沿着几层楼梯缓缓而上，静静观察这里的日常。楼外的木栏杆上晾着刚洗净的衣物，衬衫、裤子和毛巾在山风中轻轻摆动，在红色木墙的映衬下，显得生动而富有韵律。

Along sunny spots, residents have laid out trays filled with vegetables like sliced radishes, chili peppers, and bamboo shoots to dry under the afternoon sun. The air is filled with a subtle mix of earthy, sun-baked scents. Homemade sausages or strips of cured meat are also strung up on wooden poles, slowly aging in the open air. It was really an interesting and unique trip to see the Hakka’s life that I have never experienced. The Hakka is a subgroup of the Han Chinese people with their own distinct language, culture, and traditions. They traced their roots to northern China, but over centuries, they migrated southward due to wars, famine, and social unrest. They settled mainly in southern provinces such as Guangdong, Fujian, and Jiangxi. Because they often arrived as migrants or newcomers, they were called “guest families” by local populations.

阳光充足的地方，居民们会将托盘摆放整齐，里面盛满了萝卜片、辣椒和竹笋等蔬菜，在午后的阳光下缓缓晾晒。空气中弥漫着泥土的芳香与阳光轻轻烘烤蔬菜的微妙气息。自制的香肠和腌肉条也被挂在木杆上，在露天中慢慢熟化。这次旅程既有趣又独特，让我得以深入了解客家人的生活，这是我此前从未体验过的。客家人是汉族的一个分支，拥有独特的语言、文化和传统。他们的祖源可追溯至中国北方，但几个世纪以来，由于战争、饥荒和社会动荡，他们不断南迁，最终主要定居在广东、福建和江西等南方省份。由于他们多为移民或新迁入的群体，当地人称他们为客居的人。

In the courtyard stands an ancient stone well, a silent witness to centuries of life unfolding within the earthen walls. The inside of well is surrounded by a simple stone curb, its surface now softened by a thick blanket of green moss. Tiny droplets of water glisten on the moss in the morning light. The well still provides clear and deep water to the local residents who lower a metal bucket on a rope, drawing water with a slow rhythm in the same way their ancestors did a hundred years ago.

庭院中央，矗立着一口古老的石井，静静守望着土墙内百年的光阴。井旁环绕着简朴的石栏，如今厚厚的绿色苔藓悄然覆盖其壁，表面柔和如绒。晨光洒下，细小的水珠在苔藓间闪烁微光。时至今日，这口井仍为村民提供清澈而深邃的水源。他们用绳索系着金属桶，缓缓汲水，仿佛与百年前的祖先在时间里默契相连。

I took two days to travel all the scenic areas. On the second day, I visited the Tianluokeng which is the most iconic and most photographed tulou sites. Located on a terraced hillside, the cluster is called the “Four Dishes and One Soup” because of its unique layout. One square tulou (the “soup”) sits in the middle. Surrounding it are four round tulous (the “four dishes”). There is a platform on the roadside for travelers to take photos.

我总共经历两天时间游遍了南靖土楼的所有景区。第二天，我参观了田螺坑景区，它是最具标志性、拍照最多的土楼群落。田螺坑土楼群坐落在梯田般的山坡上，因其独特的布局而被称为 “四菜一汤”。一座方形土楼（“汤”）坐落在中间，周围环绕着四座圆形土楼（“四菜”）。路边有一个平台，供游客拍照。

Afterwards, I went down the staircases and visited them one by one. Built between the 15th and 20th centuries, these tulous with similar thick rammed-earth walls showcase the Hakka people’s communal living as well but they are smaller than the Huaiyuan Lou I visited the last day.

之后我顺着楼梯走下，逐一参观。这些土楼建于15世纪至20世纪之间，同样有着厚实的夯土墙，展现了客家人的集体生活，但比我前一天参观的怀远楼要小一些。

This cluster sits in a valley, surrounded by layer upon layer of rice terraces that climb the slopes of the green mountains. From above, the terraces look like rippling steps carved into the hillside. Traditionally, these terraces were cultivated with rice as the staple crop, sustained by ingenious irrigation systems that channel mountain spring water down through the fields.

这片梯田隐匿在山谷之间，层层叠叠，如同青山绿水间自然铺开的画卷。俯瞰之下，梯田宛若山坡上轻轻荡开的涟漪，随山势起伏。这里传统上种植水稻，巧妙的灌溉系统将清澈的山泉引入田间，滋养着每一层梯田，使其生机盎然。

In Hakka and Fujian villages, it’s very common to see foods being sun-dried for preservation. These colorful trays containing food are set out in courtyards and rooftop around tulou walls. Most of these foods are corn kernels which are golden yellow, often filling the whole tray, soybeans dried for making tofu, sweet potatoes which are sliced into thin pieces to make dried snacks, and scented tea leaves.

在客家与福建的村落中，晒干食物以备保存是一种常见的习俗。五彩斑斓的托盘中盛满了各类食材，整齐地摆放在土楼的庭院和屋顶上。托盘里常见的有金黄饱满的玉米粒；用于制豆腐的大豆；切成薄片晾晒的红薯干；以及清香的茶叶。

In late winter, when the air is crisp and less humid, families hang long strings of sausages across bamboo poles, or on wooden racks in open courtyards. The sight of these dark red sausages glistening in the sunlight is a hallmark of traditional Hakka villages. The sausage is made by fresh pork. The meat is mixed with salt, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, and sometimes five-spice powder or peppercorns. The seasoned meat is stuffed into natural casings, then tied into uniform lengths. The sausages are hung outdoors to dry naturally for 1–2 weeks. Deeply savory with a balance of saltiness and gentle sweetness from rice wine and sugar.

冬末，空气清爽，湿气渐消，家家户户都会把长长的香肠串挂在竹竿上，或放在露天庭院的木架上。这些深红色的香肠在阳光下闪闪发光，是传统客家村落的一大特色。香肠采用新鲜猪肉制成，肉中混合盐、米酒、酱油、糖，有时还会加入五香粉或花椒。将调味好的肉馅塞入天然肠衣，然后捆成均匀的长度。香肠会被悬挂在户外自然风干1-2周。咸香浓郁，米酒和糖带来的柔和甜味恰到好处。

The central square tulou called Buyunlou is the oldest structure of the cluster, built first by the ancestor of the family. Later generations expanded around it with round tulou. The square form is structurally simpler and sturdier to build, especially in earlier times when techniques were less advanced. Once wealth and skills grew, round tulou became more common. The square tulou in the middle acted like a fortified core, with the outer round tulou forming an additional layer of protection. Together, the cluster functioned almost like a miniature walled city.

位于中心的方形土楼被称为步云楼，是整个土楼群中最古老的建筑，最初由家族祖先建造。后世在其周围扩建，建造了圆形土楼。方形土楼结构更简单，也更坚固，尤其是在技术欠发达的早期。随着财富和技艺的提升，圆形土楼变得更加普遍。中间的方形土楼如同坚固的核心，外围的圆形土楼则构成了额外的保护层。整个土楼群就像一座微型城墙环绕的城市。

In the afternoon, I took bus and continued the travel in the Taxia Village which is part of the Tianluokeng Scenic Area. It’s a well‑preserved example of Hakka culture and architecture. I enjoyed the scene of a “water town” combined with tulou architecture. When I walked among rural terrain, small bridges, cobblestones, I could see local everyday life.

下午，我乘车前往田螺坑风景区的塔下村。这里保存着完整的客家文化建筑。我欣赏着“水乡”与土楼建筑的融合。漫步在乡村的田园风光、小桥流水、鹅卵石铺就的路面上，感受着当地人的日常生活。

The houses are constructed from blue-gray bricks, which age into a weathered, darker tone over time. Roofs are made with traditional gray clay tiles, sometimes glazed in deeper tones for water resistance. They are rectangular and one to two stories tall. Most of them are built closely along the stone-paved lanes or beside the winding stream. From a distance, I felt that the rooftops formed a soft ripple across the valley, framed by green mountains.

这些房屋由蓝灰色的砖块砌成，岁月在砖面上留下斑驳的痕迹，使其愈发沉稳沧桑。屋顶覆以传统的灰色陶瓦，有时为了防水，还会施上一层深色釉面。房屋多为一至两层的长方形建筑，紧邻石板路或蜿蜒的小溪而立。远远望去，屋顶在山谷间宛如柔和的涟漪，群山翠绿环绕，景色静谧而悠远。

I visited one house compound belonging to Zhang Family. It has stone steps at door, small walled courtyards, and wooden window frames. It was built along the central stream, with bridges connecting them. Its layout includes gate, front hall, main sacrificial hall, with left-side and right-side chambers.

我参观了张家的一处古院。入口处铺着石阶，院内环绕着围墙，木框窗棂透着古朴气息。院落沿着中央的小溪而建，溪上有桥相连。整体布局井然，有大门、前殿和主祭殿，左右两侧则是对称的厢房。

This is used as the clan shrine of the Zhang family, used for ancestor worship, clan ceremonies, rituals, and as a symbol of the Zhang clan’s history and status in the village. Built in the late Ming dynasty, over 400 years old. The gate is decorated with vivid motifs, notably “two dragons playing with a pearl”, inlaid with colored ceramic chips. Roof ridges, eaves, and parapets are ornate, with porcelain reliefs or ceramic decorations depicting legends.

这是张氏家族的宗祠，用于祭祀祖先、举行宗族仪式，同时象征着张氏家族在村落中的历史与地位。建于明末，已有四百余年历史。门楼装饰精美，尤其以“二龙戏珠”的图案最为生动，并镶嵌着色彩斑斓的陶片。屋脊、屋檐及女儿墙装饰华丽，点缀着描绘传说故事的瓷浮雕与陶瓷装饰，尽显古朴与雅致。

One of the most striking features in front of the hall are the stone flagpoles rising from the stone slab near the pond. There are many of them and they are over 10 meters high. They are richly carved and serve as memorials to clan members who achieved official or civil/military ranks or otherwise made contributions. The latest family member carved on the pole is one student went overseas, studying in MIT.

堂前最引人注目的景观之一是从池塘边石板上拔地而起的石旗杆。这些石旗杆数量众多，高达十多米。旗杆上雕刻着精美的图案，用于纪念家族中功成名就、文武双全或做出贡献的成员。旗杆上雕刻的最新一位家庭成员是一位留学生，目前就读于麻省理工学院。

During my trip, I found that the Hakka people have a culture deeply shaped by migration, resilience, and unity. Though historically considered “guests” , they forged strong, close-knit communities wherever they settled. At the heart of Hakka culture lies a powerful sense of clan. This isn’t just about bloodline but it’s a living, breathing system of values, rituals, and responsibilities. In every generation, Hakka people honor their ancestors through ancestral halls. Family histories are remembered. Even those who’ve migrated abroad trace their roots back to the clan village.

在我的旅程中，我感受到客家文化深受迁徙历程、坚韧精神与团结力量的熏陶。尽管历史上他们被称为“客家人”，但在落脚之地，却建立了紧密而坚固的社群。客家文化的核心，是深厚的家族意识。这不仅关乎血缘，更是一套鲜活的价值观、仪式与责任体系。每一代客家人都通过祠堂祭祀祖先，铭记家族历史。即便是远赴海外的后裔，也会追溯宗族村落的根源，以此延续那份血脉与文化的联结。

As night fell over Yunshui Yao, the village transformed into a quiet world. Lanterns glowed softly along cobbled paths, and the sound of flowing water echoed through the ancient alleys. The tulous stood silently in the moonlight, their thick earthen walls holding centuries of Hakka stories. In that stillness, I felt the heart of Hakka culture. It was a life rooted in simplicity and connection, so different from the pace I’m used to. This cultural journey of slower rhythm was more about experiencing a way of life that’s rare for me.

夜幕降临云水谣，村落顿时变得静谧无声。鹅卵石小路上，灯笼柔和地闪烁，潺潺流水声在古老的巷道中回荡。一座座土楼静静地矗立在月光下，厚厚的土墙承载着百年的客家故事。在这份静谧中，我感受到了客家文化的精髓。这是一种根植于淳朴与亲情的生活，与我习以为常的生活节奏截然不同。这段慢节奏的文化之旅，更多的是体验一种对我来说弥足珍贵并且全新的生活方式。

An Immersive Journey Through Kulangsu’s Scenic Beauty

Posted in China, TravelTagged , , 
鼓浪屿的沉浸式旅行

Rising gently from the waves of Xiamen’s coast, Kulangsu is an island where sea breezes carry the echoes of pianos and the scent of frangipani drifts through winding stone lanes. It is a place where cultures once met across the ocean, leaving behind villas with red-tiled roofs, colonial consulates, and quiet courtyards shaded by banyan trees. It is celebrated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its rare tapestry of architecture and culture. From the European-inspired mansions of returning overseas Chinese to the fusion styles born of East and West, every building tells a story of global exchange in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

鼓浪屿依偎在厦门海岸的碧波之间，海风轻拂，钢琴声在空气中悠扬回荡，缅栀花的清香随蜿蜒的石巷飘散。这里曾是多元文化的交汇之地，留下了红瓦洋楼、殖民时期的领事馆，以及榕树掩映下的静谧庭院。凭借其独特的建筑群与深厚的文化底蕴，鼓浪屿被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。从归侨的欧式宅邸到中西合璧的风格，每一座建筑都在低声讲述着19世纪至20世纪初这座岛屿与全世界交流的历史。

Kulangsu island is always a romantic place for travelers to explore. On December 27th 2024, the morning ferry skimmed across the waters of Xiamen, carrying me toward Nei Cuoao Ferry Point, the gateway to Kulangsu. As the city skyline softened behind me, the island slowly revealed its red rooftops and leafy hills, bathed in the gentle light of dawn. The sea breeze grew cooler, carrying with it a sense of anticipation—of slower rhythms, hidden gardens, and the music-filled streets waiting just beyond the pier.

鼓浪屿自古便是旅行者心中的浪漫归处。2024年12月27日清晨，渡轮划过厦门的海面，载着我驶向这座岛屿的门户内厝澳渡轮码头。身后的城市天际线渐渐退去成一抹柔影，前方的岛屿却缓缓浮现：红瓦屋顶点缀在葱郁的山丘间，尽情沐浴在温柔的晨曦里。清凉的海风拂面，吹来一缕期许——那是对码头彼岸缓慢的生活节奏、隐秘的花园，以及充盈着音乐的街巷的些须期待。

After I arrived at the island in the morning, the first glimpse of it was the beach. Beach on Kulangsu is not the selling point of this island but it is still beautiful enough. It stretched like a pale ribbon along the edge of the island, its sand soft and fine beneath bare feet. The waves lap gently, leaving fleeting patterns of foam that glisten under the sun, while children’s laughter drifts across the breeze. Here the horizon was wide, the sea was calm, and the soft sand was a quiet comfort for travelers who came to rest by the water’s edge.

清晨抵达鼓浪屿，最先映入眼帘的便是一片沙滩。它或许不是这座岛屿最耀眼的名片，却自有一份恬静之美。沙滩宛若一条浅色的缎带，环绕在岛屿的边缘，细腻柔软的沙粒在脚下温润舒适。海浪轻轻拍打岸边，散落的泡沫在阳光中闪烁着微光，伴随着孩子们随风传来的笑声，勾勒出一幅温柔的画面。这里视野辽阔，海面宁静，柔软的沙滩为徜徉水边的旅人带来片刻安宁与慰藉。

Automobile is not allowed on this island, so the only option is to walk along the sea slowly. This long curling bridge built on the sea seems to dance with the sea breeze, their arches tracing elegant curves above the tides. From the railing, I watched the waves rushing in from the horizon and breaking against the rugged cliffs below. Each crash of white foam is a rhythm, echoing like nature’s drumbeat against the stone, while the bridges carry me forward as if floating between sky and sea. It is a place where footsteps slow, and the vast power of the ocean meets the quiet beauty of human design.

岛上禁止汽车通行，唯一的方式便是沿着海岸缓缓漫步。那条横跨海面的蜿蜒长桥，似乎随着海风轻舞，桥拱在潮汐之上勾勒出优雅的弧线。我伫立于栏杆旁，望着海浪自天际奔涌而来，拍击下方崎岖的悬崖。每一次白色浪花的炸裂，都是大自然的鼓点，敲击在岩石之上，而桥梁则承载着我的脚步，仿佛将我引向漂浮于海天之间的境界。在这里，步伐放缓，浩瀚的海洋与人类匠心的静美交织成一曲和谐的乐章。

Towering trees at the seaside rose like silent guardians of the island, their trunks weathered yet steadfast, their crowns heavy with shimmering green. Sunlight filtered through the leaves in shifting patterns, dappling the stone paths and courtyards below. When the sea breeze drifted inland, the branches swayed gently, whispering as if carrying stories of travelers long past. Looking up from below, the Sunlight Rock seems impossibly high, like a natural monument etched with shadows and light.

海边的参天大树静静矗立，如同守护岛屿的巨人。它的树干历经风霜，依旧坚韧挺拔；繁茂的树冠生机盎然，散发出深沉而浓烈的绿意。阳光穿透叶隙，在石板路与庭院间洒下斑驳的光影。海风轻拂，枝叶摇曳，仿佛在低声诉说远古旅人的故事。抬头仰望，日光岩巍然耸立，宛若一座由光与影雕琢而成的天然纪念碑。

My travel route is from the Nei Cuoao Wharf in the west to the Sunlight Rock in the south, then to the Haoyue Park in the east, finally to the residence area in the central part. Sunlight Rock, the highest point on Kulangsu Island offers travelers both a natural wonder and a historic landmark. Its rugged cliffs are composed of granite, weathered over centuries into jagged yet graceful forms. From below, it appears almost vertical and looks very impressive.

我的行程自西面的内厝澳码头启程，向南攀至日光岩，再东行至皓月园，最终抵达岛屿中央的居民区。日光岩是鼓浪屿的至高点，不仅是自然的杰作，更是历史的丰碑。它由花岗岩嶙峋堆叠而成，历经数百年风化，雕琢出峥嵘而秀美的姿态。从山脚仰望，其岩壁几近垂直，气势巍峨。

Near the summit of Sunlight Rock, the Sunlight Temple is a serene retreat that seems to float between sky and sea. Its crimson walls and green-tiled roofs stand in gentle contrast to the rugged granite cliffs, while the incense smoke drifting from its altars adds a fragrant softness to the salty sea breeze. It is one of Kulangsu’s oldest religious sites, with roots tracing back to the Ming and Qing dynasties.

日光寺位于日光岩顶峰附近，静谧幽远，仿佛悬浮于海天之间。深红的寺墙与碧绿的琉璃瓦，与嶙峋的花岗岩峭壁相映成趣；自祭坛缭绕而出的袅袅香烟，与咸润的海风交织，添上一缕清芬。作为鼓浪屿最古老的宗教圣地之一，它的渊源可追溯至明清时期。

Inside the courtyard, carefully carved wooden beams and delicate statues reflect traditional Chinese temple artistry. Potted plants and small trees are carefully arranged along the stone pathways. Fragrant flowers peek from ceramic pots, and miniature bonsai trees twist gracefully and elegantly in the gentle breeze in this tranquil courtyard.

庭院之中，木梁雕饰精美，神像玲珑雅致，尽显中国传统寺庙的艺术气韵。石径两侧，盆栽与小树错落有致，仿佛静候来客。陶罐里，馥郁的花朵探首而出，微型盆景随风轻摇，流露出一份静谧与雅趣。

The path to the summit winds through lush vegetation, shaded by tall palm trees and clusters of banyans, with small resting spots offering glimpses of the surrounding sea. The red roof-tops are one of the most distinctive features of Kulangsu’s landscape. In the late 19th centuries, many Chinese merchants and families who had lived in Southeast Asia or Europe returned to Kulangsu. They brought with them Western architectural styles, where red-tiled roofs were common. Red clay tiles were durable and well-suited to the island’s humid, coastal climate. They shed rain efficiently and resisted the salty sea breeze better than thatched or flat roofs.

通往山顶的小径蜿蜒穿过葱郁的植被，高耸的棕榈与成片的榕树交织掩映，沿途设有小憩之处，可远眺一望无际的海景。鼓浪屿最具代表性的风貌之一，便是点缀在绿意之间的红色屋顶。自19世纪末起，许多曾旅居东南亚或欧洲的华商与家族陆续归来，他们将西方建筑风格融入岛上的传统环境，使红瓦屋顶随处可见。由红粘土烧制的瓦片坚固耐久，极为适合潮湿的海岛气候，不仅能有效遮挡雨水，更能比茅草或平屋更好地抵御扑面的咸湿海风。

The rock is a commanding position, allowing visitors to gaze across the island and the surrounding sea. At the top, the sea breeze is strong and refreshing, and the panoramic view is really breathtaking. I could see clearly the undulating coastline of Xiamen, the sparkling waters surrounding Kulangsu, and the red-roofed villas dotted across the island all unfold beneath my feet. The sea of red rooftops is like a mosaic of history: a blend of Chinese tradition, overseas influence, and the island’s role as a hub of cultural exchange.

日光岩居高临下，俯瞰整座岛屿与四周蔚蓝的大海。登上山顶，海风清冽劲爽，眼前的全景令人屏息：厦门起伏的海岸线尽收眼底，鼓浪屿周围的海面波光粼粼，岛上星罗棋布的红顶别墅一一展现。这片红顶别墅群宛如一幅历史的马赛克画卷，将中国传统建筑、海外风格与岛屿作为文化交流枢纽的独特身份巧妙融合。

After going down from the top of Sunlight Rock, next I visited the Shuzhuang Garden which is one of the island’s most beautiful places. Here classical Chinese landscape design meets the island’s coastal beauty. It was built in 1913 by Lin Erjia, a wealthy overseas Chinese merchant, as a private seaside villa in memory of his father. This is the statue of the owner Lin Erjia.

从日光岩顶下来后，我接下来参观了菽庄花园，它是岛上最美的地方之一。这里融合了中国古典园林设计与岛上的海滨美景。它是由富豪华侨林尔嘉于1913年建造的一座私人海滨别墅，以纪念他的父亲。这张照片是别墅主人林尔嘉的雕像。

The garden is famed for its clever use of space, following the traditional Chinese principle of “借景” (borrowing scenery). Pavilions, winding corridors, and moon gates frame the shifting views of the sea, distant islands, and the garden’s own bridges and rockeries. Every turn seems to reveal a new scene—quiet ponds reflecting the sky, bamboo groves whispering in the wind, or stone steps leading down to the shore where waves gently lap against the rocks. It seamed that I was placed in a flowing Chinese landscape painting.

这座园林以巧妙的空间布局著称，完美体现了中国传统的“借景”理念。亭台楼阁、蜿蜒曲折的回廊与幽雅的月门，将海景、远方岛屿以及园内的小桥流水、假山巧妙串联。每一次转角，仿佛都会呈现新的画面——静谧的池塘映照着天空，竹林在微风中轻轻低语；沿着石阶走向岸边，海浪温柔地拍打着岩石，恍若置身一幅流动的山水画卷。

In this limited area, it includes many artificial hills, winding paths, and groves of bamboo and pine which reproduce the feeling of mountain landscapes within a compact space. Small waterfalls, rockeries, and ponds complete the miniature world of hills and streams, inviting visitors to wander as if in nature itself.

在这有限的空间里，错落有致的假山、蜿蜒曲折的小径、竹林松林，在紧凑的空间中重现了山峦叠嶂的景象。小瀑布、假山、池塘，构成了山水的微缩世界，让游客仿佛置身于大自然之中。

From within Shuzhuang Garden, slender stone bridges curve outward like graceful arms reaching toward the sea. Their paths are never straight; instead, they twist and turn in gentle zigzags, following the classical garden tradition of slowing one’s pace and revealing scenery step by step. Low railings frame the edges, allowing the sound of waves and the salty breeze to flow freely across the walkway like spirits.

从菽庄花园内眺望，纤细的石桥如同伸向大海的优雅手臂，缓缓蜿蜒而出。桥面并非笔直，而是曲折回环，恰似古典园林中“步步缓行，景致渐现”的意趣。低矮的栏杆轻轻环绕，任海浪的吟唱与咸风的拂面自由流淌在桥上，增添几分闲适与灵动。

As I crossed the bridge, the view shifted constantly. One moment was framed by a round moon gate, the next opening wide to the endless horizon. The bridges seemed to hover between two worlds: behind me, the calm rockeries, bamboo groves, and pavilions of the garden; ahead, the vast, untamed sea which tide was high, and waves surged and crashed beneath the arches.

走过桥，眼前的景色不断变幻：忽而是一道圆形月门，忽而又豁然开朗，直通无垠的地平线。栈桥仿佛悬浮在两个世界之间。身后是花园中静谧的假山、竹林与亭台楼阁；前方是浩瀚的大海，潮水涌动，波涛翻滚，在桥下奔腾不息。

Walking through Shuzhuang Garden, I felt as if I had stepped into a living painting that slowly revealed itself with every turn. The zigzagging bridges drew me closer to the sea, and when the horizon suddenly appeared through a moon gate, it felt like a surprise being revealed. Standing on a bridge where the garden meets the ocean with Sunlight Rock at the backdrop, I felt that all noise and worry seemed to dissolve into the rhythm of the sea, leaving only a quiet joy.

漫步于菽庄花园，仿佛步入一幅鲜活的画卷，随着每个转角的延展，画卷徐徐展开。蜿蜒的桥将我引向大海，当地平线透过月门突然显现，如同一份悄然揭开的惊喜。站在花园与海水交汇的桥上，以日光岩为背景，所有喧嚣与烦恼仿佛随波逐流，只留下静谧而纯粹的喜悦。

The Piano Museum near the Shuzhuang Garden is the first of its kind in China. Opened in 2000, the museum reflects the island’s reputation as the “Island of Music” and its deep-rooted love for piano culture. The museum is housed in elegant garden pavilions surrounded by flowers and plants.

菽庄花园附近的钢琴博物馆是中国首家钢琴博物馆。该博物馆于2000年开馆，体现了这座岛屿 “音乐之岛”的美誉以及当地民众对钢琴文化的深厚热爱。博物馆坐落在雅致的花园亭阁之中，周围环绕着鲜花绿植。

The hall displays more than a hundred pianos from around the world. Many of them are rare and antique instruments, some dating back centuries. Walking through the museum, I saw some famous pianos from the 18th century like Blüthner and Steinway & Sons. They are decorated with delicate carvings, and grand pianos once played in concert halls and noble salons. Each piece tells a story of craftsmanship, artistry, and the journey of music.

大厅里展出了来自世界各地的一百多架钢琴。其中许多都是稀有的古董乐器，有些甚至可以追溯到几个世纪以前。漫步博物馆，我看到了例如步吕特纳和施坦威等一些18世纪的著名钢琴。它们装饰着精美的雕刻，还有一些曾经在音乐厅和贵族沙龙中演奏的三角钢琴。每一架钢琴都向我讲述着各自的工艺、艺术和音乐之旅的故事。

In the afternoon, I walked along the seaside of Kulangsu which felt alive with energy. The sea sparkled under the sun, waves rolling gently toward the stone promenade. At the far end, Xiamen’s skyline gleamed in the distance. Walking further along the curve of the shore, the huge statue of Zheng Chenggong came into view, standing tall on the rocks above the sea. His gaze was fixed firmly toward the horizon. Beneath him, the waves crashed against the cliffs, as if echoing his determination.

午后，我漫步在鼓浪屿的海滨，感受着这里洋溢的生机与活力。阳光洒在海面上，波光粼粼，海浪轻柔地拍打着石板路。远处，厦门的天际线闪烁着迷人的光芒。沿着海岸线缓缓前行，郑成功的巨大雕像映入眼帘，矗立于海面之上的岩石之上。他的目光坚定而深邃，凝视着遥远的地平线。海浪拍打着岩石，在他身下激起阵阵回响，仿佛回应着这位民族英雄不屈的意志。

When I looked up at the statue, I imagined that he set sail from these shores in 1661, driving out the Dutch and reclaiming Taiwan, turning Xiamen into a stronghold of resistance and hope. I began to reminisce the history at the end of Ming Dynasty. Although fighting against Qing Dynasty all through his life, Zheng Chenggong gained high recognition from his enemy due to extraordinary loyalty and courage and after his death, the Kangxi Emperor of Qing praised him with the famous couplet:

“四镇多异心，两岛屯师，敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土，一隅抗志，方知海外有孤忠。”

The emperor’s words recognize Zheng as a singular figure of steadfast loyalty and daring, acting alone in defense of the Ming cause while much of the empire wavered. Zheng’s courage and strategic vision marked him as a “solitary loyalist” whose deeds would endure in history. Standing today on Kulangsu, gazing at his towering statue facing the sea, I felt the weight of his loyalty and the determination.

当我仰望这座雕像，脑海中浮现他于1661年从这片海岸起航的场景——驱逐荷兰人、收复台湾、将厦门化作抵抗与希望的据点。思绪随之回溯至明末岁月。郑成功一生与清廷为敌，却凭卓越的忠诚与勇气赢得敌方尊重。其逝世后，清康熙皇帝仍题下名联以示赞誉：“四镇多异心，两岛屯师，敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土，一隅抗志，方知海外有孤忠。”

康熙皇帝的挽联承认郑成功的忠义无畏、勇敢坚强。在明朝风雨飘摇、举国动荡之际，他独自肩负捍卫江山的重任。凭借非凡的勇气与卓越的战略眼光，郑成功被尊为“孤胆忠臣”，其丰功伟绩必将载入史册。今日，伫立于鼓浪屿，凝视他那面向大海、巍然矗立的雕像，我深切感受到了这位南明义士忠诚为国的分量与坚定抗清的决心。

From the shores of Kulangsu, the view across the water feels like looking into another world. Beyond the gentle rhythm of waves and the red-tiled roofs of the island, Xiamen rises in shimmering glass and steel. Sleek high-rises and soaring towers stretch toward the sky. The contrast is striking. On one side, it’s Kulangsu’s quiet gardens, winding lanes, and echoes of history; on the other, it’s the bold skyline of a modern metropolis. It made me feel as though past and present are meeting in a single frame.

从鼓浪屿的岸边眺望，对岸的景色仿佛属于另一个世界。轻柔的海浪拍打着岸边，岛上红瓦屋顶在阳光下温暖映衬，而厦门的玻璃与钢铁建筑在光影中拔地而起，现代高楼直冲云霄，光鲜亮丽。两者形成鲜明对比：一边是鼓浪屿静谧的花园、曲折的小巷和历史的回响；另一边是现代都市的雄伟天际线。此刻，我仿佛看到过去与现在在同一画面中交汇。

From the late 19th to early 20th century, luxurious villas and mansions in style like Mediterranean, Baroque, Rococo, and Art Deco were built on this island. Missionaries from Europe built churches, schools, and hospitals, adding Gothic spires, stained glass windows, and European-style chapels to the landscape. Meanwhile, traditional Chinese temples and gardens continued to flourish, preserving local spiritual and aesthetic traditions. Nowadays, Kulangsu retained most of its historic buildings. I wandered through the small lanes and wondered at the mixed cultures here.

19世纪末至20世纪初，岛上陆续兴建起兼具地中海、巴洛克、洛可可及装饰艺术风格的豪华别墅与庄园。来自欧洲的传教士则建造了教堂、学校与医院，为岛屿增添了哥特式尖顶、彩色玻璃窗以及精致的小教堂风貌。与此同时，中国传统的寺庙与园林依旧生机勃勃，承载着当地独特的精神与审美传统。如今，鼓浪屿大部分历史建筑依然完好保存。我漫步于曲径幽巷之间，仿佛置身于一座多元文化交融的时光画卷之中

‘Amoy Deco’ is the name given to a unique style that blossomed on this island during the early 20th century. It evolved as returning overseas Chinese merchants and students brought back Western influences, fusing them with Fujianese tradition. The name Amoy comes from the local Hokkien dialect pronunciation of Xiamen. Inspired by the global Art Deco movement, these buildings often feature streamlined facades, angular designs, and decorative motifs such as hexagonal patterns roof, symmetry, and zigzags. Unlike pure Western Art Deco, Amoy Deco integrates local craftsmanship, brick masonry techniques, and Chinese symbolic decorations. Wide verandas, open balconies, and shaded courtyards designed for ventilation in the humid subtropical climate.

“Amoy Deco”指的是20世纪初在这座岛屿上兴起的一种独特建筑风格。这一风格由归国的海外华商与留学生将西方艺术元素带回中国，并与福建本土传统相融合而发展而成。“Amoy”源自当地闽南语对“厦门”的发音。受全球Art Deco运动影响，这类建筑常呈流线型外墙、棱角分明，并装饰有六边形屋顶、对称布局以及锯齿形等图案。不同于纯粹的西方装饰艺术，Amoy Deco巧妙融合了本地工艺、砖砌技术及中国传统装饰元素。宽敞的走廊、开放式阳台与幽静庭院的设计，有效适应了潮湿亚热带气候下的通风需求。

Trinity Church

Constructed in 1934, the Trinity Church was built jointly by three Christian congregations to cater to the growing number of worshipers on the island. The church showcases architectural influences rooted in Western ecclesiastical design like brick walls accented by cross motifs, arched windows and a steeply pitched white roof. Its first Sunday service in the renewed sanctuary was held in 2019, marking its restored role as a house of worship for the island’s community.

这座三一教堂建于1934年，由三家基督教会联合兴建，旨在满足岛上日益增长的信徒需求。教堂的设计汲取了西方教会建筑的风格特色，砖墙上点缀着十字图案，拱形窗户高耸典雅，陡峭的白色屋顶更显庄重。2019年，翻新后的圣殿迎来了首场主日礼拜，宣告教堂重新成为岛上社区的精神图腾与礼拜中心。

Former British Consulate

The Former British Consulate is a distinguished example of colonial architecture that reflects the island’s rich international heritage. The building is constructed from ancient Minnan red bricks and granite. The structure showcases a veranda style, which was prevalent in port cities during the 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1843, Xiamen opened to foreign trade, and the British government established a consular office on Kulangsu. Today, it has been repurposed and serves as the Kulangsu Historical and Cultural Exhibition Hall. This transformation allows visitors to explore the island’s rich history and the architectural heritage of its colonial past.

前英国领事馆是殖民时期建筑的杰出典范，体现了鼓浪屿丰富的国际文化遗产。建筑以传统闽南红砖和花岗岩砌成，呈现19世纪至20世纪初港口城市盛行的廊架式风格。自1843年厦门开港通商以来，英国政府便在鼓浪屿设立了领事馆。如今，这座建筑经过改造，成为鼓浪屿历史文化展览馆，让游客得以深入探索岛上的历史风貌与殖民时期的建筑遗产。

Former Japanese Consulate

The Former Japanese Consulate stands as a testament to Kulangsu’s rich history as an international settlement. Constructed in 1879, it remains the only 19th-century embassy building still intact on the island. The building is primarily constructed using ancient Minnan red bricks and granite as well like most buildings in this island. The structure exhibits Victorian-style elements with a veranda-style layout, common in cities with open ports, and incorporates wood trusses, I-beams, and concrete slabs in its interior.

前日本领事馆见证了鼓浪屿作为国际殖民地的悠久历史。建于1879年，它是岛上唯一保存完好的19世纪使馆建筑。如同岛上其他建筑一样，整座建筑以古老的闽南红砖与花岗岩砌成，结构中融入了维多利亚风格的元素，采用港口城市常见的廊式布局；内部则巧妙结合了木桁架、工字梁与混凝土板，展现出独特的历史风貌。

This building does not allow visiting inside so I could only take some photos surrounding it. Its façade, adorned with arched windows and a distinctive red-brick exterior, stands in contrast to the surrounding European-style buildings. Its well-preserved structure offers me a glimpse into the architectural diversity that characterizes the island.

由于这栋建筑不对内部开放，我只能在周围拍几张照片。正面装饰着拱形窗户，外墙由独特的红砖砌成，在周围的欧式建筑群中格外醒目。它保存完好的结构，让我得以一瞥岛上建筑风格的丰富多样。

Huang Rongyuan Villa

In my opinion, the Huang Rongyuan Villa must be the most elegant and beautiful mansion in this island. The villa built in 1920 reflects a fusion of European classical style and Chinese aesthetics. Its massive granite columns and formal symmetry evoke Roman grandeur. Four giant Tuscan-style granite columns support a semi-circular portico. Rich ornamental details in column capitals, eaves, windows, balconies, and a rooftop adorned with grapevine motifs and balustrades really attract my eyes.

在我眼中，黄荣远别墅无疑是这座岛上最优雅、最迷人的宅邸。建于1920年的它，将欧洲古典风格与中国美学完美融合。巨大的花岗岩柱与对称布局，让人联想到古罗马的宏伟气势。四根雄伟的托斯卡纳风格花岗岩柱支撑着半圆形门廊，而柱头、屋檐、窗户、阳台以及装饰着葡萄藤图案与精美栏杆的屋顶，其繁复细致的装饰着实吸引了我的眼球。

The villa stands within a lush courtyard, over 3,000 m² in size. In the courtyard, the garden is an exquisite fusion of Chinese and Western elements. One highlight is the use of traditional Chinese garden elements like Taihu rocks, winding paths, a pavilion, and a cloud-style rock wall. In contrast, the geometry and symmetry reflect Western villa gardens especially decorated with curved porch and grand Ionic columns. Now, it is home to the China Record Museum, preserving both architecture and musical heritage.

别墅坐落于郁郁葱葱的庭院之中，占地逾3000平方米。庭院花园巧妙地融汇中西风格：一方面，太湖石、蜿蜒小径、雅致凉亭与云纹岩墙彰显中国传统园林的韵味；另一方面，别墅本身的几何造型与对称布局，配以弧形门廊和宏伟的爱奥尼式柱子，又散发出典型西方别墅花园的气度。如今，别墅内还设有中国唱片博物馆，珍藏着丰富的建筑与音乐遗产。

Fanpo Mansion

This Fanpo Mansion is celebrated for its rare blend of Chinese craftsmanship and European Rococo style. The gatehouse is particularly notable. It’s the tallest and largest on the island. Rococo influences surface in flourishes of curving lines and decorative sculptures. The gatehouse is crowned with a sculpture of two golden birds holding copper coins, symbolizing wealth and good fortune. The mansion was built in 1927 by a prosperous Chinese-Filipino entrepreneur, in honor of his mother, known as ‘Fan Po’. The exterior is composed of richly hued red bricks contrasted with white trims. The ground floor features a two-story red-brick cloister with graceful arches forming a shaded walkway. A set of elegant stairs ascends to the main entrance.

番婆楼以其罕见的中西工艺融合而闻名，将中国传统元素与欧洲洛可可风格巧妙结合。其门楼尤为引人瞩目，是岛上最高、最宏伟的门楼。洛可可风格的影响在门楼的曲线线条与精美雕塑中展露无遗。门楼顶部雕刻着两只衔铜钱的金鸟，象征财富与吉祥。这座府邸建于1927年，由一位富有的菲律宾华裔企业家建造，以纪念他被尊称为 “番婆”的母亲。外墙以色彩丰富的红砖砌成，辅以白色装饰，形成鲜明对比。一楼设有两层红砖回廊，优美的拱门连成绿荫步道。沿着典雅的楼梯拾级而上，即可通达正门。

There are still some local residents in this island. I could even go to the second floor of the new residential house taking some photos. Life on Kulangsu may unfold under the gaze of countless tourists, but for its local residents, the rhythm is gentler, rooted in routines that have little to do with sightseeing. At dusk, when most tourists have left, the island grows peaceful. Residents stroll along the seaside promenade, and children chase each other under the glow of streetlamps.

岛上仍住着一些本地居民。我甚至可以上到新建居民楼的二楼，拍下几张静谧的生活瞬间。鼓浪屿的日常，在游客的目光下缓缓展开，而对居民而言，却是另一种从容，根植于与观光无关的平凡生活。黄昏时分，当游客渐渐散去，岛上恢复了宁静。居民沿着海滨长廊缓步而行，孩子们在路灯下追逐嬉戏，脚步声与海风一同流淌在暮色中。

Chuncao Tang

Travel in this small island is tiring since I needed to continue walking up and down without rest. Chuncao Tang is situated on the cliff of Pen Holder Hill, offering expansive views of the surrounding landscape. Built in 1933, Chuncao Tang was designed by Xu Chuncao, the president of the Xiamen Construction Association. The villa resembles a Western-style nursing house. Its structure utilizes granite for the wall base, wall pillars, and corridor column. The villa includes a wide corridor outside the living room, providing a space for viewing and cooling off, enhancing the living experience with panoramic views of the surrounding area.

这座小岛上旅行格外疲惫，因为我需要不断地上下攀爬，中途也不得不停下来休息。春草堂座落于笔架山的悬崖之上，视野开阔，能够尽览周围景致。建于1933年的春草堂，由厦门市建筑协会会长许春草设计，别墅仿照西式养老院建造，墙基、墙柱与廊柱皆采用花岗岩。别墅客厅外设有宽敞的走廊，既可观景，又可乘凉，将周围的风光尽收眼底，极大提升了居住的舒适体验。

HSBC Bank Mansion

One of the most amazing buildings on this island must be the HSBC Bank Mansion. It is a three-leaf clover shaped English style villa, completed in 1876, and distinguished by its placement atop the cliff of Pen Holder Hill. I looked up at the high and straight cliff. This building sits solidly on a granite foundation anchored into the cliff’s rock. The mansion’s cliff-top location was purposefully chosen to offer sweeping sea views during both day and night. A colonnaded cloister runs alongside, opening to sea breezes and panoramic views of Xiamen’s Twin Towers and the iconic Bagua Mansion.

岛上最令人叹为观止的建筑之一，非汇丰银行公馆莫属。这座建于1876年的英式三叶草形状的别墅，因矗立于笔架山悬崖之上而闻名。我仰望着笔架山高耸的悬崖，只见公馆稳稳地坐落在嵌入岩石的花岗岩基座上。选址于悬崖之巅，是为了让人无论白天还是夜晚，都能尽览壮阔海景。旁侧，带有柱廊的回廊在海风吹拂下轻轻摇曳，厦门双子塔与标志性的八卦楼尽收眼底。

Bagua Mansion

Before the sun set, the Bagua Mansion revealed itself like a beacon among Kulangsu’s green hills and tiled rooftops. Its bright red dome, rounded and regal, rose above the treetops, immediately catching my eyes. Against the soft sky and glittering sea, the dome shone with a warm glow in the winter chill, resting like a crown on the island’s outline. This distinct profile makes the mansion one of the most recognizable landmarks of Kulangsu. Founded in 1907, the Bagua Mansion was commissioned by Taiwanese businessman. Nowadays, the refurbished mansion became the Organ Museum, housing Chinese most notable collections of pipe organs.

日落前，八卦楼宛如一座灯塔，矗立在鼓浪屿青山绿水与瓦片屋顶之间。那鲜红的穹顶圆润而庄重，耸立于树梢之上，瞬间捕获了我的目光。在柔和的天空与波光粼粼的海面映衬下，穹顶在冬日寒意中散发出温暖光芒，如同一顶皇冠，点缀着岛屿的轮廓。独特的造型让八卦楼成为鼓浪屿最易辨识的地标之一。八卦楼始建于1907年，由一位台湾商人委托建造，如今经过翻新，已成为管风琴博物馆，馆内收藏着中国最著名的管风琴藏品。

After eight hours of exploring this island on foot, my legs were utterly exhausted. Sauntering through the winding lanes was like stepping into a living museum, where each street and building tells a story of hybrid cultures and architectural fusion. Though time constraints meant I missed many remarkable structures, the glimpses I caught and these intricate details blending East and West made every step worthwhile. This UNESCO site is not just a place to see but a place to feel, where history and artistry coexist in the most vivid way.

徒步探索这座岛屿八小时后，我的双腿早已疲惫不堪。漫步于蜿蜒的小巷中，仿佛走进一座鲜活的博物馆。每条街道、每栋建筑都娓娓诉说着多元文化与建筑风格交融的故事。虽因时间有限错过了许多令人叹为观止的建筑，但那些短暂的瞥见，以及东西方交汇处的精致细节，让我此次旅行的每一步都充满价值。这座联合国教科文组织世界遗产，不仅值得观赏，更值得用心感受；历史与艺术在这里以最生动的方式交融共存。

Beneath the Blue Horizon: Xiamen’s Sea-Kissed Trip

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蓝色地平线下的厦门：一场海与心的旅行

Xiamen was my last stop in the Christmas trip 2024. It a beautiful city where the sea whispers to the shore draped in sunlight and sea breeze. Here, waves kiss the white sands of Huandao Road, and Kulangsu’s winding alleys hum with stories of a bygone era. Palm trees sway over seaside cafés, and each sunset spills gold into the harbor. Between the scent of salt in the air and the melody of the tides, Xiamen invites me to slow my pace, breathe deeply, and let the ocean’s rhythm guide me finish the whole journey.

厦门，是我2024年圣诞旅途的最后一站。这座海滨之城，阳光与海风温柔相拥。环岛路的白沙滩上，浪花如丝绸般抚过足迹；鼓浪屿的蜿蜒小巷间，则回荡着旧时光的低语。海边的咖啡馆里，棕榈树在微风中摇曳，夕阳的余晖染金了整片港湾。空气里弥漫着咸润的气息，潮汐谱写着舒缓的旋律。厦门，仿佛以海洋的脉动，邀请我放慢脚步，深深呼吸，让旅程在宁静与诗意中缓缓落幕。

When I just arrived, I found that Xiamen and Singapore share quite a few similarities, especially from a travel and lifestyle perspective. Both are island-based cities connected to the mainland by bridges. Surrounded by the sea, they have a strong maritime character and a history shaped by trade. Xiamen’s Kulangsu Island and old neighborhoods reflect a fusion of Chinese, Western, and Southeast Asian styles. Singapore also blends Chinese, Malay, Indian, and colonial heritage into its urban fabric.

初到厦门时，我惊喜地发现，这座城市尤其是在旅行体验与生活方式上与新加坡有着许多相似之处。两者皆是海岛城市，通过桥梁与大陆相连，四面环海，浸润着浓厚的海洋气息与因贸易而兴盛的历史。厦门的鼓浪屿与老街区展现出中西文化与东南亚风情的交融，而新加坡的城市肌理则汇聚了华人、马来人、印度人以及殖民时期遗留下来的多元文化遗产。

Xiamen’s story is written by the sea. Once a small fishing settlement, it rose to prominence in the 17th century as a key port for maritime trade along China’s southeastern coast. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, its deep-water harbor made it a gateway for merchants, tea exports, and cultural exchange. In the 19th century, Xiamen became one of China’s earliest treaty ports, opening to foreign trade after the signing of Treaty of Nanjing in the First Opium War. Nowadays, it is very modern city. The beautiful skyline rises beside palm-lined boulevards, and large ships share the horizon with ferries bound for nearby islands. Both mark a new chapter of this garden city on sea.

厦门的故事始于大海。最初，它只是东南沿海的一座小渔村，却在十七世纪间逐渐崛起，成为海上贸易的重要港口。明清时期，深水良港让这里汇聚四方商贾，茶叶自此远销海外，也孕育了多元的文化交流。十九世纪，随着《南京条约》的签订，厦门成为中国最早开放的通商口岸之一，见证了风云变幻的近代史。如今的厦门早已焕然一新：现代化的天际线在棕榈掩映的林荫大道旁傲然耸立，巨轮与渡船同绘海面，共同书写这座海上花园城市的新篇章。

In the 17th century, long before Xiamen became a modern port city, it was the stronghold of Zheng Chenggong, the Ming loyalist who resisted the Manchu conquest. Xiamen’s natural harbor and island setting made it a perfect marine base. From here, Zheng built a powerful naval force, controlling trade and defending the coast. In 1661, it was from Xiamen’s shores that his fleet set sail across the Taiwan Strait, launching the campaign that expelled the Dutch from Taiwan and established Chinese rule there.

早在17世纪，厦门还未成为现代化港口之前，这片海岛便是明朝名将忠臣郑成功的重要据点。他凭借这里的天然良港与险要地势，构筑起坚固的海上要塞，用以抵御清军的进犯。依托厦门的优越条件，郑成功组建起一支强大的海军，不仅掌控海上贸易，还守护着沿海疆土。1661年，他率领庞大的舰队自厦门启航，横渡台湾海峡，发起了驱逐荷兰殖民者的战役，最终在台湾确立了中国的统治。

Today, the central district of this city called ‘Siming’ recall Zheng Chenggong’s presence. He renamed the island’s name to “Siming”. The name, meaning “remembering the Ming Dynasty” reflected his loyalty to the fallen Ming dynasty and his opposition to the Qing conquerors. Standing by the water and staring at the powerful warships faraway, it’s easy for me to imagine the sails of his fleet catching the wind and fighting in the waves.

如今，城市的中心——思明区，依旧承载着人们对郑成功当年的记忆。他曾将这座岛屿易名 ‘思明’，寓意缅怀故国，寄托着对覆灭的明朝的忠贞与对清军入侵的抗争之志。伫立水边，远眺海上战舰的雄姿，仿佛眼前便浮现出他率领舰队劈波斩浪、扬帆远航的壮阔场景。

My trip started from the seaside promenade which stretched like a silver ribbon along the sea, with palm trees swaying gently above the turquoise waves. The salty breeze brushed against my face, carrying the faint scent of the ocean and the sound of gulls overhead. Each step felt lighter, as if the rhythm of the waves was syncing with my heartbeat.

我的旅程自海滨长廊启程。它宛如一缕银色丝带，沿着无际的海面舒展延伸。两侧的棕榈随碧波轻轻摇曳，仿佛在为海浪伴舞。微咸的海风拂面而来，带着淡淡的海洋气息，间或掺杂几声悠远的海鸥鸣叫。海边漫步步履间格外轻盈，似乎浪涛的律动正与我的心跳相互呼应。

The horizon seemed endless, and the air felt so fresh that every breath is a quiet celebration: cool, clean, and alive. Walking here, the bustle of the city slipped away, replaced by the soft music of the tide interwined with the simple joy of being by the sea. With each step along seaside promenade, the weight of the year’s work begins to loosen, like sand slipping through my fingers. Sunlight danced on the water, and I felt as though the tide is quietly washing my mind clean. By the time I reached the curve of the bay, the fatigue of whole year has dissolved into the horizon, leaving only a lightness.

地平线无边无际，空气澄澈清新，每一次呼吸都仿佛是一场静谧的庆典：清凉、纯净，饱含生机。漫步于此，城市的喧嚣渐渐褪去，只余下如潮水般轻柔的乐音，与海畔独有的惬意相互交织。沿着海滨长廊缓步而行，仿佛每一步都卸下了一分尘世的负担，犹如细沙从指间静静滑落。阳光在水面上闪烁起舞，潮汐轻声呢喃，似在为我拂去纷杂思绪。待我走到海湾的转角处，一年的疲惫早已消散在天际，只余心境澄明、轻盈自在。

Although it was December, the temperature on noon could reach 23 Celsius. I walked on the wide, sun-warmed sand of Huangcuo Beach and touched the coldness of sea water with my bare feet. The wave hit me like soft applause, greeting me with their gentle rhythm, as if reminding me to slow down. Out on the horizon, the sky melted into the sea. I let the breeze wrap around me, cool and salt sweet.

虽已至十二月，正午的气温却依然攀升到二十三度。黄厝的沙滩开阔而明亮，我赤脚行走在其上，脚尖触碰到海水时，清凉之意瞬间涌上心头。浪花轻柔拍来，如同一阵阵温婉的掌声，拍打着节奏，仿佛在提醒我放慢脚步。远方的天与海在地平线上交融，浑然无际。微风裹挟着一丝凉意与淡淡的咸甜，将我轻轻拥抱。

Huangcuo Beach is more than just a stretch of golden sand—it’s a stage for quiet romance. At sunset, the sky blushes over the sea, and the soft hiss of the waves becomes a gentle backdrop for whispered promises. Here, couples stroll hand in hand, leaving footprints side by side, some pausing to write Marry me in the sand or to embrace beneath a sky turning gold and rose. The openness of the sea seems to bless each moment, carrying it far beyond the horizon.

黄厝海滩不仅是一片金色的沙岸，更是一方静谧而浪漫的舞台。暮色降临，霞光轻洒在海面上，柔和的浪声宛如低语的伴奏。情侣们携手而行，在细沙上留下并肩的足迹；或在沙滩上写下 “嫁给我”的誓言，或在金与玫瑰色交织的天空下深情相拥。辽阔的大海仿佛化作见证与祝福，将每一个温柔的瞬间托付给无尽的地平线。

The main seaside promenade in Xiamen is along Huandao Road, which circles much of Xiamen Island’s coastline. I walked along the section that was most popular with walkers and cyclists. The section in the south of island, stretching from Xiamen University through Hulishan to Xiang’an Bridge is about 20 km long. The most iconic building on the way must be the Xiamen Twin Towers. Their glass façades curving like giant sails catching the sea breeze. This skyline creates a striking contrast. The calm rhythm of waves in the foreground, and the confident silhouette of a modern city just beyond. Walking here, I felt Xiamen’s unique blend of ‘la isla bonita’ and a metropolis.

厦门最著名的海滨长廊坐落于环岛路，几乎环绕了整个厦门岛的海岸线。我沿着最受步行者和骑行者青睐的路段缓缓前行。环岛路的南段，从厦门大学经胡里山延伸至翔安大桥，全长约二十公里。途中最引人注目的当属厦门双子塔，其玻璃幕墙宛如巨大的船帆在海风中轻轻起伏，勾勒出一条优美的曲线。天际线在双子塔的映衬下更显生动，前方是平静的海浪拍打节奏，远处则是现代化城市的自信轮廓。漫步其间，我深深感受到厦门独有的魅力。这是一座“美丽小岛” 与繁华都市的完美融合。

There are not so many historical buildings in Xiamen. Hulishan Fort is one living reminder of the city’s history. It was on the seaside promenade. Built in 1894 during the Qing Dynasty, the fort was designed to guard against foreign naval threats and overlooks the Taiwan Strait from a commanding seaside cliff. Its thick granite and red-brick walls enclose military tunnels and a watchtower. They are still intact and high although eroded by wind and rains of hundred years.

厦门的历史建筑不算多，但胡里山炮台却是这座城市历史的鲜活见证。它坐落于海滨长廊上，为了防御外国海军的威胁始建于清朝光绪二十年（1894年）。炮台俯瞰台湾海峡，依托一处高耸的海边悬崖而建。厚实的花岗岩与红砖筑成的城墙环绕着军事隧道与瞭望塔，历经风雨仍显雄伟。

The main attraction is the world’s largest surviving 19th-century coastal cannon, a German-made Krupp cannon stretching over 13 meters long. Its dark iron barrel stretches toward the Taiwan Strait, a silent giant that once promised both power and protection. Standing before it, I could feel the tension of history, the urgency of Qing dynasty arming itself against foreign fleets. Krupp was a leading German industrial and steel company in the 19th–20th century, renowned for heavy artillery. Qing Dynasty purchased many cannons from this company in the history.

最引人注目的是世界上现存最大的19世纪海岸炮：一门德国制造的克虏伯巨炮，长达十三米有余，漆黑的铁身宛如沉默的巨人，静静伸向台湾海峡，曾象征着力量与守护。站在它面前，我仿佛能触碰到历史的张力，感受到清朝武装自卫、抵御外国舰队的紧迫感。克虏伯公司是19至20世纪德国领先的钢铁与工业巨擘，以重型火炮闻名于世。历史上，清朝曾从这家公司采购过大量大炮。

Another site marking the history of Xiamen is Zengcuoan. Once a quiet fishing village, it is now Xiamen’s lively “sea-side snack town,” where every narrow lane is scented with something tempting. Under strings of warm lights, stalls sizzle with local flavors. Vendors call out cheerfully, offering skewers of grilled squid, cups of mango shaved ice, and steaming bowls of satay noodles. In Zengcuoan, eating is the heart of the experience, a delicious stroll through Xiamen’s coastal soul.

曾厝垵是另一个见证厦门历史的景点。它曾是一个宁静的渔村，如今已成为厦门热闹的 “海滨小吃城”，每条小巷都弥漫着诱人的香味。在温暖的阳光下，摊位上摆满了当地风味小吃。小贩们兴高采烈地叫卖着烤鱿鱼串、芒果刨冰和热气腾腾的沙爹面。在曾厝垵，美食是体验旅游的核心，是一次探索厦门海滨灵魂的漫步。

There are many snacks here, but few delights could be compared to biting into a steaming crab roe soup bao. The thin, delicate wrapper trembles as I lifted it from the bamboo steamer. With one careful sip, the rich broth bursts forth. The taste is sweet and briny, infused with the essence of fresh crab and a hint of ginger. Then comes the filling itself and leaves a lingering savoriness that feels both indulgent and comforting. With a dash of vinegar and a hint of ginger, the flavor feels lighter and less greasy.

这里的小吃琳琅满目，但少有能比得上咬上一口热气腾腾的蟹黄汤包带来的满足感。我轻轻从竹蒸笼里取出一个，薄薄的包皮微微颤动。轻轻一抿，浓郁咸香的汤汁便溢满口腔，蟹的鲜香与姜的清爽巧妙融合。紧随其后的馅料香味回味悠长，令人难以忘怀。再蘸上一点醋与姜丝，清爽中带着微微酸香，既鲜美又不腻。

In the afternoon, after I finished the stroll along the seaside promenade, I visited the South Putuo Temple which is one of the most celebrated Buddhist temples in Fujian Province, located at the southern foot of Wulao Peak. With its back to the mountains and facing the sea, the temple enjoys a harmonious natural setting that has made it both a spiritual sanctuary and a major cultural landmark.

下午，漫步完海滨长廊后，我前往位于五老峰南麓的南普陀寺，它是福建省著名的佛教寺庙之一。寺院背山面海，自然环境和谐，既是精神圣地，也是重要的文化地标。

The temple’s history dates back to the Tang dynasty, but it gained its present name during the Ming dynasty, when it became associated with Guanyin （the Bodhisattva of Compassion）. Since then, South Putuo temple has been regarded as the southern counterpart of Putuo mountain, one of the four sacred Buddhist mountains of China. The temple complex covers a large area and is built in a traditional symmetrical layout, with halls aligned along the central axis.

南普陀寺的历史可追溯至唐代，而“南普陀” 这一名称则始于明代，缘于对观世音菩萨（大悲菩萨）的虔诚信仰。自此，寺庙便被视为中国四大佛教名山之一——普陀山的南端圣地。南普陀寺占地广阔，建筑布局沿袭传统对称格局，殿堂沿中轴线依次排列。

This is the entrance hall, Heavenly King Hall guarded by the Four Heavenly Kings and Maitreya Buddha. Because South Putuo is one of the most important Buddhist temples in southern China, people believe that incense offerings here carry special merit and spiritual power. I came here to burn incense on the last day of the year, seeking blessings for the upcoming New Year. Lanterns swayed gently in the breeze. The air was thick with the fragrance of sandalwood incense, mingling with the faint sound of chanting monks inside the grand halls.

眼前是入口大殿——天王殿，由四大天王与弥勒佛守护。南普陀作为中国南方最重要的佛教圣地之一，人们相信在这里焚香能积累殊胜功德。我在年末来到此地，虔心焚香，为即将到来的新年祈福。微风轻拂，红色灯笼轻轻摇曳，空气中弥漫着浓郁的檀香气息，与大殿内僧侣悠扬的诵经声交织回荡。

In the temple, there is a canteen selling local food. I ordered one bowl of Shacha noodles, one of the most iconic street foods of Xiamen. At first glance, the dish looks simple: yellow wheat noodles served in a steaming bowl of broth. But the soul of Shacha noodles lies in the shacha sauce — a deep, rich paste made from soybean oil, garlic, shallots, chilies, and especially dried seafood like shrimp. This sauce, with its smoky, slightly spicy, umami-packed taste, gives the dish its unforgettable character. The sip of broth is savory and aromatic, carrying the warmth of spices and the depth of seafood.

庙里有一家小小的食堂，专门售卖当地街头美食。我点了一碗沙茶面。这可是厦门最具代表性的特色小吃之一。乍看之下，它似乎简单：一碗热气腾腾的汤头中铺着金黄的小麦面条。然而，沙茶面的灵魂在于那一勺沙茶酱。酱料由大豆油、大蒜、红葱头、辣椒，以及虾等精心调制的海鲜干货熬制而成，浓郁醇厚，带着淡淡烟熏味和辛辣余韵，又鲜美异常，为整碗面注入独特的风味。舀一口汤底，香气扑鼻，鲜味浓郁，香料的温暖与海鲜的鲜美交织在舌尖上。

Jimei School Village, located on the northern side of Xiamen Island is a landmark of education, culture, and history founded by the famous overseas Chinese philanthropist Tan Kah Kee in the early 20th century. He established Jimei Primary School first, and over the years expanded it into a full educational complex that included middle schools, vocational schools, and eventually colleges. Today, it has grown into a network of institutions with a reputation that extends across China and overseas.

集美学村坐落于厦门岛北侧，由著名华侨慈善家陈嘉庚先生于20世纪初创立，是一处兼具教育、文化与历史价值的地标。陈嘉庚先生最初创办集美小学，随后不断拓展，将其发展成为涵盖中学、职业教育及大学的完整教育体系。如今，集美学村已成长为享誉海内外的学府，成为承载文化底蕴与学术精神的重要象征。

The campus architecture is one of its most striking features. Buildings here combine magnificent Western-style structures with traditional Southern Fujian architectural elements with red brick walls, swallowtail eaves, decorative tiles, and stone carvings. This unique blend creates a setting that is both scholarly and culturally distinctive, often described as “the Tan Kah Kee style.” I was sitting beside a large, scenic pool where dragon boat races are held during traditional festivals and enjoyed the tranquil environment which brought me back to the memory of my university life.

校园建筑是这里最引人注目的特色之一。西式建筑的宏伟气派与闽南传统元素的精巧雅致在此交融，红砖墙、燕尾檐、装饰瓷砖与石雕相映成趣。这种独特的融合营造出既饱含学术气息，又深蕴文化底蕴的环境，被人们称为 “陈嘉庚风格”。我坐在风景如画的人工湖旁，每逢传统节日，池上还会上演热闹的龙舟赛。静静凝望周围的景致，不由得涌上心头的是对大学时光的回忆。

A museum and a park are dedicated to Tan Kah Kee’s life and contributions, filled with historical documents, photographs, and personal belongings. Tan Kah Kee was a legendary overseas Chinese entrepreneur and educator. Born in Jimei, he migrated to Singapore as a teenager to help with his father’s business. Believing education was the foundation of national strength, he established Xiamen University, the first university in China founded entirely by overseas Chinese funds. He played a decisive role in founding Nanyang University, the first Chinese-language university outside of China, which later became part of Nanyang Technological University.

这里设有博物馆和公园，以纪念陈嘉庚的一生及其卓越贡献。馆内收藏了丰富的历史文献、珍贵照片和个人物品，再现了这位传奇海外华人企业家与教育家的生平。陈嘉庚出生于集美，少年时期随父移居新加坡，协助家族经商。他坚信教育是国家的根本，创办了首所完全由海外华人出资兴办的大学厦门大学。在创办新加坡的南洋大学的过程中，他也发挥了关键作用。该校是中国境外首所中文大学，后发展成为南洋理工大学的重要前身。

The turtle Garden includes garden and cemetery where Tan Kah Kee himself is buried, facing the sea. It is filled with stone carvings and sculptures that narrate episodes of history and culture. Now people still memorize how he poured his fortune into education for the Chinese community both at home and abroad after visiting this place.

这座鳌园集花园与墓园于一体，陈嘉庚先生长眠于此，面朝浩瀚大海。园中遍布精美的石雕与雕塑，每一处都讲述着历史的篇章与文化的故事。今日，游人漫步其间，仍能感怀先生将一生财富倾注于海内外华人教育的无私奉献。

The Nanyang-style architectures here left me a deep impression. It combines red brick and swallowtail roof ridges of Minnan houses with arched windows, colonnades, and verandas from Western colonial architecture. Roman columns, and Gothic-style arches are used as well, creating a cultural mix. When I visited Xiamen, I always felt that I seemed to visit Singapore. These school buildings and their styles reminded strongly of The Chinese High School in Singapore. There’s a real sense of déjà vu.

这里的南洋建筑风格给我留下了深刻的印象。它巧妙地融合了闽南民居的红砖燕尾脊与西方殖民时期建筑的拱形窗、柱廊和阳台，甚至融入了罗马柱与哥特式拱门，营造出一种独特的文化交融氛围。每次踏足厦门，我总有置身新加坡的错觉。这些校舍的风格，与新加坡华侨中学的建筑有着奇妙的呼应，让人心生似曾相识的温暖感。

Outside of the Jimei school village, it is the Ten Miles Long Causeway which is one of the most romantic places in Xiamen as the sun dips low over the horizon. It connects the island to mainland China. High speed train and metro tram pass over the bridges over the long causeway. I arrived at this place nearly at 6 pm and this was my last travel destination in this city.

集美学村之外，是十里长堤。夕阳西下之时，这里成为厦门最浪漫的去处之一。长堤上一道道桥梁，连接着厦门岛与大陆，高铁与地铁在其上疾驰而过。我抵达此地时，大约是傍晚六点，这也是我在这座城市的最后一站。

Stretching gracefully between the sea and the sky, the causeway was bathed in golden light, its stone path glowing softly under the warmth of dusk. On one side, the water shimmered with the reflection of the fading sun, rippling like liquid fire; on the other, the distant skyline slowly melted into silhouettes against the pastel sky. Couples strolled hand in hand along the path, and the evening breeze carried the scent of the ocean and the gentle waves lapped against the shore. As twilight deepened, the sky turned to orange, painting a canvas that seems endless above the causeway.

十里长堤优雅地延伸于海天之间，沐浴在金色的光芒中，石子路在黄昏的温暖中泛着柔和的光芒。一边，水面在落日的余晖中波光粼粼，宛如流动的火焰泛起涟漪；另一边，远处的天际线在柔和的天空映衬下缓缓消融，化作光影轮廓。情侣们手牵手漫步在小径上，晚风带来海洋的气息，轻柔的海浪轻拍着海岸。随着暮色渐深，天空转为金橙色，仿佛在堤道上方描绘出一幅无边的画布。

Xiamen was my last stop of travel in Fujian. As I lingered by the shore for another time, the waves rolled in gently, carrying away the noise of my thoughts, returning only a calm that feels rare in the rush of everyday life. Xiamen’s seaside doesn’t overwhelm like Cote D’Azur, but it soothes my soul. Sitting by the water, I felt my worries dissolve, replaced by the simple joy of watching the horizon blur between sea and sky. Perhaps that is the true gift of this city: a quiet reminder that peace in my heart can be found not in grand monuments, but in the gentle embrace of the ocean.

厦门是我此次福建之旅的最后一站。当我再一次在海边徘徊，海浪轻轻翻滚，带走了纷乱的思绪，只留下在喧嚣日常中难得的宁静。这里的海滨没有法国蔚蓝海岸那般惊艳，却以温柔抚慰着我的心灵。静坐水边，所有的烦恼仿佛随风而去，取而代之的是凝视海天交汇处模糊地平线时涌上的纯粹快乐。也许，这便是这座城市的真正馈赠：悄然提醒我们，心中的平静并非源自宏大叙事，而是来自大海温柔的拥抱。

The Crossroads of Civilizations in Quanzhou

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多文化的交汇地泉州

Known as the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road, Quanzhou was one of the world’s busiest ports during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Even one thousand years ago, it is a multi-cultural city. Nowadays, Quanzhou’s streets echo with this unique cultural symphony. Within a few kilometers, traveler can find Buddhist temples, Taoist shrines, churches, and mosques. Due to its pivotal role as a maritime hub and a melting pot of global cultures, Quanzhou is often called “the Museum of World Religions. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.

泉州，作为海上丝绸之路的起点，在宋元时期曾是世界最繁忙的港口之一。早在千年前，这里便是多元文化交汇的热土。如今，漫步泉州街头，依然能聆听那穿越时空的文化交响——在短短几公里范围内，佛教寺庙、道教圣地、基督教堂与清真寺比邻而立，和谐共存。凭借其作为海上枢纽与全球文化熔炉的重要地位，泉州被誉为“世界宗教博物馆”，并于2021年被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。

Quanzhou was the third stop of my Christmas 2024 journey through Fujian Province, following visits to Fuzhou and Wuyi Mountain. I spent two days exploring this historic city. My trip started from the Chaotian Gate in the south of city. Built during the Song dynasty, when Quanzhou was a flourishing maritime hub, this gate was once the primary entrance, through which envoys, merchants, and travelers passed, their ships anchored nearby in the busy harbor. The name “Chaotian,” meaning “Facing Heaven,” reflects its ceremonial role: it was traditionally used to greet imperial envoys and conduct ritual offerings to heaven and the sea. When I stood before Chaotian Gate, I easily imagined the scene centuries ago—caravans unloading goods, sails fluttering in the breeze, and languages from across Asia and the Middle East echoing through the air.

继福州与武夷山之后，泉州成为我2024年圣诞节福建之旅的第三站。我在这座历史名城停留了两天，细细品味它厚重的文化底蕴。旅程自城南的朝天门启程——这座建于宋代的古老城门，曾是泉州作为繁盛海上枢纽的门户，是商贾、使节与旅人进出的要道，昔日无数船只便停泊在临近的港口边。

“朝天”意为“面向天空”，寓意庄严而神圣。这里不仅是迎接皇帝使者的场所，也曾举行祭天祭海等重要仪式，体现其深远的礼仪功能。站在朝天门前，我仿佛穿越时空，眼前浮现出数百年前的景象：商队忙碌卸货，风帆轻扬，来自亚洲与中东的异域语言在空气中交织回响——那是一幅世界交汇的壮丽画卷。

In the heart of Quanzhou’s old town center, I visited many ancient buildings. The white Clock Tower located on West Street is a distinctive and modern-looked structure built in 1934. Unlike the traditional ancient architecture around it, this tower showcases early 20th-century architectural design. The tower stands at 13.8 meters tall and is constructed from reinforced concrete. At the top of the tower, there are four round clocks, one on each side, allowing the time to be visible from multiple directions along the street. It is not only a building, but more like a time observer, silently witnessing the changing and flowing rhythm of the ancient city.

在泉州古城的中心，我漫步于古巷之间，参观了众多承载岁月痕迹的老建筑。而在西街，一座白色钟楼静静矗立，其造型简洁却不失独特气质，散发出上世纪初的现代风采。它建于1934年，与周围的闽南红砖古厝形成鲜明对比，宛如时代转折处的一笔注解。

这座高13.8米的钟楼由钢筋混凝土建成，坚实挺拔。塔顶设有四面圆形时钟，分别朝向不同方向，令街道上来自各个角落的行人都能一眼望见时间的踪迹。它不仅是一座建筑，更像是一位守时者，默默见证着古城节奏的更迭与流转。


South of the Bell Tower on West Street, the street is lined with traditional Minnan (Southern Fujian) style buildings that beautifully blend regional craftsmanship with colonial-era influences, creating a unique streetscape. The buildings are predominantly two-level shop houses, raised on large white pillars that support the upper floors. These sturdy posts not only provide structural strength but also create a shaded arcade at street level, perfect for pedestrians and operations of small shops.

在西街钟楼以南，街道两旁耸立着一排排传统的闽南风格建筑，巧妙融合了本地工艺美学与殖民时期的异域风情，勾勒出一幅别具韵味的街景画卷。这些建筑多为两层楼的店屋，上层由一根根洁白粗壮的柱子支撑，既赋予结构坚实的力量，也在街道沿线形成连续的拱廊。这些拱廊不仅遮风避日，为行人提供舒适的步行空间，也为小商铺营造了宜人的经营环境。


The walls feature red brick-lined windows and facades, a hallmark of Minnan architecture that brings warmth and texture to the buildings. The windows are framed with decorative wooden shutters or latticework, echoing the intricate patterns found in both Minnan and Southeast Asian architecture. The style closely resembles the Singaporean shop houses found in historic districts like Chinatown. This similarity highlights historical maritime trade connections and cultural exchanges between Fujian and Southeast Asia.

墙体多以红砖砌成，窗户与立面呈现出典型的闽南建筑风貌，赋予整座建筑温暖而质朴的质感。窗户多为装饰性的木质百叶窗或格子窗框，其精致的雕饰与复杂的图案，正是闽南及东南亚建筑中常见的传统美学元素。这种建筑风格与新加坡牛车水等历史街区中的店屋颇为相似，不仅在视觉上唤起遥远南洋的联想，更鲜明地映射出福建与东南亚之间源远流长的海上贸易与文化交流。

West Street is one of Quanzhou’s oldest and most charming thoroughfares. Here I wandered through a lively blend of tradition and experienced the dynamic energy of daily life. Lined with centuries-old shops, tea houses, and local eateries, the street buzzed softly with the mingling scents of fresh pastries and brewed tea. The ancient architecture here, a harmonious mix of southern Fujian style, reflected the city’s rich heritage. As I strolled along West Street, my eyes were naturally drawn to the skyline where two majestic towers rise side by side — the Kaiyuan Temple’s Twin Pagodas. These slender, towering structures, standing tall against the backdrop of blue sky, are iconic symbols of Quanzhou’s cultural and religious history. Their delicate brickwork and multi-tiered eaves cast graceful shadows over the surrounding streets, making the area solemn and poetic.

西街是泉州最古老、也最富魅力的街道之一。我缓步其间，仿佛置身于一幅流动的画卷中，感受到传统与日常生活交织出的蓬勃生机。街道两旁，百年老店、茶馆与地道小吃铺林立，糕点的甜香与茶水的清韵在空气中交融。古老的建筑依旧静默地守护着街道，闽南风格的细节随处可见，折射出这座城市深厚而多元的文化底蕴。行走在这条历史悠久的街道上，我的目光不由被天际线所吸引——两座巍峨挺拔的塔楼并肩而立，正是开元寺的双塔。

这对塔楼高耸入云，身姿纤巧而坚实，在蓝天白云的映衬下巍然屹立，静静诉说着泉州悠远的宗教与文化故事。它们精致的砖石结构与层层飞檐在阳光下投下斑驳的光影，为这片古老街区添上几分庄严与诗意。

Kaiyuan Temple stands as one of the largest and most significant Buddhist temples in Fujian Province. Founded during the Tang Dynasty in 686 AD, it has witnessed over a millennium of spiritual devotion. Stepping into Kaiyuan Temple, I was embraced by an atmosphere of calm and reverence. The gentle scent of incense mingled with the soft chanting of prayers, creating a timeless space for reflection. Surrounding the temple, ancient stone lions and inscribed steles spoke of a rich history interwoven with the city’s vibrant maritime past.

开元寺，是福建省规模最大、意义深远的佛教古刹之一。始建于唐朝公元686年，它历经千年风雨，见证着世代信众的虔诚。步入寺中，仿佛踏入一方超然尘世的净土。淡淡的香火缭绕空中，轻柔的诵经声随风流转，交织成一片宁静而深远的冥想氛围。古老的石狮静立两旁，斑驳的碑刻述说着历史的深沉与岁月的流转。这座千年古寺不仅承载着佛教文化的厚重底蕴，也与泉州这座城市的海洋精神交相辉映。

The Main Hall, or Daxiong Baodian is the majestic centerpiece of Kaiyuan Temple and the focal point for worshipers. Inside, the hall houses the gold statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, the historical Buddha, seated serenely in the center. Surrounding the main statue are smaller figures of bodhisattvas and guardian deities, all carved or sculpted with delicate detail. The hall’s interior exudes a mystery aura, enhanced by soft natural light filtering through lattice windows, and the faint aroma of incense that lingers in the air.

大雄宝殿是开元寺庄严肃穆的核心所在，也是信众心灵归依的圣地。殿内供奉着历史悠久的释迦牟尼佛金身，佛像安坐中央，神态慈悲庄严。主佛四周环绕着造型各异的菩萨与守护神像，皆雕刻精妙，线条流畅。殿内氛围静谧而深沉，仿佛将人引入一方超脱凡尘的净境。柔和的自然光透过格子窗悄然洒落，与空气中缭绕的淡淡香烟交织在一起，自有一种神秘感。

Painted on an interior wall of the temple, this mural of Qilin is a rare and vibrant example of traditional religious art that has withstood the passage of centuries. The Qilin, often regarded as a benevolent and auspicious beast, is a composite creature with the body of a deer or horse, the scales of a dragon or fish, and a mane of fire. It symbolizes peace, virtue, and the arrival of a sage or enlightened ruler. What makes this mural especially striking is its brilliant use of color—tones of turquoise, cinnabar red, gold, and indigo still glimmer faintly despite age.

这幅麒麟壁画绘于开元寺的内壁，是一件历经数百年风霜而依然绚丽如初的宗教艺术瑰宝。麒麟自古被视为仁慈与祥瑞的神兽，身形融合鹿或马的优雅、龙或鱼的鳞片之华美，以及火焰般鬃毛的灵动，象征着和平、美德，亦寓意圣贤或明君的降临。壁画最令人赞叹之处，在于其卓越的色彩运用——青绿清润、朱砂温雅、金色辉映、靛蓝深沉。纵使岁月斑驳，这些色调依然闪烁着柔和的光泽。

The Twin Pagodas of Kaiyuan Temple are the most iconic landmark of Quanzhou. Each pagoda stands over 40 meters tall, built during the Song Dynasty in the 13th century, replacing earlier wooden versions that were destroyed by fire. Crafted entirely of granite, the towers demonstrate remarkable engineering and aesthetic refinement. Delicate stone carvings of Buddhas, celestial beings, lotus patterns, and mythical creatures adorn the surfaces of both towers. Despite centuries of wind and rain, these details remain remarkably well preserved.

开元寺双塔，是泉州最具象征意义的地标之一。两座石塔高耸于古寺一隅，高逾四十米，建于宋代十三世纪，用以取代早年毁于战火的木塔。它们通体由坚硬的花岗岩砌筑而成，不仅体现了宋代高超的建筑技艺，也展现了卓越的审美。塔身雕刻繁复而精致，佛像庄严，仙人灵动，莲花清雅，神兽威武，每一处细节都凝聚着匠人的心血与虔诚。历经数百年风雨洗礼，这些浮雕仍清晰可见。

Beyond the grand halls and towering pagodas, there was a quieter world—a cluster of old temple buildings hidden in the greenery. Their weathered walls and wooden eaves were telling silent stories of centuries past. These structures, modest in scale but rich in character, were once home to monks and temple workers. Their moss-covered tiles, stone thresholds, and delicate wooden lattice windows reflect the elegance of traditional southern Fujian architecture. Time has softened the edges of these buildings: faded red doors, flaking paint, and ancient stone steps worn smooth by generations of footsteps. All are the silent testimony of vicissitude of life.

在宏伟的大殿与巍峨佛塔之外，开元寺还静静隐藏着一片安宁古雅的天地——一排排低矮的寺庙旧舍，掩映于绿意之间。斑驳的墙体与飞檐翘角的木屋顶仿佛在无声诉说着几个世纪前的清寂岁月与修行生活。这些建筑虽不宏大，却独具匠心，曾是僧侣居住与修行之所。青苔斑斓的瓦片、打磨光滑的石门槛、雕饰精巧的木格窗棂，无一不散发着闽南传统建筑的古韵之美。时间悄然在这些角落留下印记：褪色的朱红木门、斑驳剥落的油漆，以及那一阶阶被无数脚步踏磨得圆润光滑的石级，仿佛都在默默见证着人世的变迁。

As I wandered through the old quarter of old Quanzhou, I came across charming two-story houses that seemed to capture the spirit of the city in a single glance. These buildings, made of brick, feature a unique blend of southern Fujian architecture, simple but full of taste of life. The first floor serves as a shop or family living space, its entrance marked by bright red lanterns hanging on the doorway. Above, the second-floor balcony burst into color. Clay pots and wooden planters overflow with blooming flowers—hibiscus, bougainvillea, orchids—cascading over the railings. At the top, a flat rooftop platform serves as an open-air terrace. Locals might use it to dry tea leaves or gather in the evening for conversation. This kind of life rhythm is neither fast nor slow, just like the temperament of Quanzhou city – leisurely, calm, showing the real way of local life.

漫步于泉州的老城区，几处别致的两层楼房映入眼帘，仿佛在不经意间捕捉到了这座古城最真实的气息。这些砖砌民居融合了典型的闽南建筑风格，既质朴又充满生活情调。一层通常为商铺或家庭起居空间，门前常悬挂一对鲜红灯笼。二层则设有色彩斑斓的小阳台，阳台上摆满了陶罐与木制花盆，芙蓉、三角梅、兰花竞相绽放。屋顶为平顶露台，是生活的延伸空间。晴好时分，主人家会在此晾晒茶叶；入夜之后，则成了邻里闲聊纳凉的好去处。这样的生活节奏，不紧不慢，恰如泉州这座城市的气质——悠然、从容，又充满烟火人情。

In the Licheng District, there are many historical sites listed as UNESCO World Heritage Element which is a memory of the history. The site of Southern Clan Office is the official office overseeing Southern‑residing Song dynasty imperial clans based in Quanzhou. Established in the early 12th century, the office managed some 349 members of the imperial Zhao family who fled south during the Jin invasion. Now in the courtyard, stone steles and a sculpted statue stand as silent testaments to the site’s once majestic presence.

泉州鲤城区，拥有众多列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的珍贵遗迹，承载着深厚的历史与文化记忆。其中，南外宗正司遗址尤为独特，它曾是宋代宗室在泉州设立的官方机构，专责管理南迁宗室事务。始建于12世纪初，这里在金朝南侵之际，接纳并安置了约349位南逃的赵氏皇族成员，是南宋王朝血脉延续的重要据点。如今，遗址内静立的石碑与人物塑像，默默诉说着昔日王族的迁徙与沉浮。

There is a small exhibition hall showcasing rich samples of excavated artifacts, 3D interpretive maps, and multimedia reconstructions. Beautiful vases and delicate lotus‑petal pattern bricks, and majestic looking beast‑face ridge tiles from the Song dynasty are displayed here. A large variety of ceramics with inscriptions such as “赵” on pottery bases, link them directly to the imperial clan. These findings strongly affirm the site’s status as a high‑level official administrative complex tied to both the imperial clan and maritime trade governance mechanisms of the Southern Song state.

博物馆内设有一个小型展厅，虽不宏大，却内容丰富。展厅通过出土文物、3D解说地图与多媒体复原图，生动再现了南外宗正遗址的历史风貌。其中展出的宋代文物尤为引人注目：玲珑精致的花瓶、雕刻细腻的莲瓣纹砖、神态威严的兽面脊瓦，无不展现出当时工艺美术的高超水准。此外，还出土了大量陶瓷器，其中一些陶胎上刻有“赵”字铭文，直指南宋皇室的身份印记，成为皇族南迁与驻地生活的直接物证。这些考古发现不仅印证了南外宗正作为高级官僚行政机构的地位，也揭示了它在南宋皇室与海上贸易治理体系中的重要作用。

It is an unknown archaeological site layered with quiet history. Its admission is free, and it has very few visitors, making it a peaceful stop for history enthusiasts. Here I had deeper understanding of how state institutions functioned during the Maritime Silk Road era, and how imperial families adapted to life far from the capital. Every stele and every piece of pottery bears a true trace of their lives during those turbulent times. This small site, although not renowned for its grandeur, quietly reveals a distant and complex history.

这是一处鲜为人知的考古遗址，却静静蕴藏着层层叠叠的历史回响。遗址免费开放，游人寥寥，恍若与尘世隔绝，成为历史爱好者得以静心沉浸的隐秘角落。在这里，我得以更深刻地理解海上丝绸之路鼎盛时期，国家机构的运行机制与权力布局，也窥见了南宋皇室成员在远离京师的异地如何安顿身心、延续传统。每一块碑石、每一片陶瓦，都是他们在动荡年代中书写下的真实生活痕迹。这座小小遗址，不以宏伟取胜，在不经意间，将一段遥远而复杂的历史悄然呈现眼前。

The Site of the Maritime Trade Office is another UNESCO heritage site. It was once the powerful nerve center of China’s official overseas trade during the Song and Yuan dynasties. This was no ordinary government office. It was China’s window to the maritime world, a place where Arab, Persian, Indian, and Southeast Asian merchants registered their ships, paid customs duties, exchanged goods, and interacted with Chinese officials. It witnessed the prosperity of Quanzhou as the “largest port in the East” and also embodied the integration of diverse civilizations on the Maritime Silk Road. Nowadays there are only some remaining excavated stone walls, water channels, and drainage systems.

市舶司旧址，是泉州另一处被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的重要遗迹。它曾是宋元时期中国对外贸易的中枢，不仅是一座行政机构，而是连接中原与阿拉伯、波斯、印度、东南亚等地区商贸往来的桥梁。往昔，来自异域的商人曾在此登记船只、缴纳关税、交换货物，并与中国官员展开繁复的外交与商业往来。市舶司见证了泉州作为“东方第一大港”的鼎盛，也凝聚了海上丝绸之路上多元文明的交融。时至今日，旧址仅存部分石墙、水渠与排水系统，静默于岁月之中。

Far away from the bustle of West Street, the Confucian Temple lie serenely in one corner. Acting as a civilization sanctuary, it is the city’s historical center of learning, moral cultivation, and scholarly reverence. Built originally during the Tang Dynasty and expanded in the Song and Ming periods, this temple is one of the oldest and best-preserved Confucian temples in Fujian Province. More than a religious space, the Quanzhou Confucian Temple in the history served as an educational and civic institution, where Confucian teachings guided the governance and values of society.

远离西街的喧嚣，泉州文庙静静伫立于城市的一隅。宛如一方宁静的文化圣地，它曾是这座古城悠久历史中修身养性与崇尚学问的重要中心。文庙始建于唐代，历经宋明数度扩建，成为福建省保存最为完整、历史最为悠久的文庙。这里不仅是儒家礼仪的祭祀场所，更是古代泉州社会的教育与公民治理重地。儒家思想在此根植，深刻影响着社会的道德准则与价值观念

At the heart of the temple stands the Dacheng Hall, dedicated to Confucius, with statues and tablets honoring the great sage and his disciples. The hall is built in traditional southern Chinese style, with upturned eaves, carved beams, and tranquil courtyards. The courtyard is shaded by ancient pagoda trees which are symbols of scholarly virtue and integrity. These trees are often linked with success in the imperial examination system.

泉州孔庙的核心建筑，是庄严肃穆的大成殿，供奉着孔子及其弟子的塑像与牌位。大成殿采用典型的中国南方传统建筑风格，飞檐翘角、雕梁画栋。殿前庭院幽静古朴，绿荫掩映。这些古槐不仅增添了庭院的肃穆氛围，更象征着儒雅之德与正直之品，历来被视为文运昌盛、士子登科的吉兆。

Walking through the Quanzhou Confucian Temple feels like stepping into a realm of quiet reverence. The symmetry of the architecture and the echo of footsteps in stone courtyards evoked a scholarly world of centuries past. In the center of Dacheng Hall, the solemn figure is the statue of Confucius. Carved with a calm, dignified expression, Confucius is depicted in traditional scholar’s robes, his hands gently clasped in front of his chest in the posture of respect and self-discipline. In the center upper plaque, the phrase 万世师表” means “The Eternal Model Teacher for All Time”. It reflects the deep respect and reverence that generations of Chinese people—especially scholars and officials—have held for Confucius.

漫步于泉州文庙，仿佛步入一片静谧而庄严的圣境。古老建筑严整对称，石砌庭院中回荡的脚步声轻缓悠长，仿佛唤醒了尘封的记忆，将人带回那个儒风蔚然的时代。大成殿正中，孔子塑像巍然屹立，身披传统士大夫袍服，双手合抱于胸前，神情沉静而肃穆。殿堂上方，高悬着“万世师表”四字匾额，映照着千百年来中国文人雅士、士子官宦对至圣先师的崇高敬仰

The Chinese phrase “半城烟火半城仙” is a modern poetic description of Quanzhou, capturing its unique charm as a city where earthly life and spiritual heritage coexist in harmony. It means ‘Half a city of worldly bustle, half a city of sacred calm.’ As a major port in the Song-Yuan era, it was a global city, home to people of many religions, cultures, and trades. I walked through one historical street with centuries-old Buddhist pagoda, elegant mosque and shrine shrouded of incense smoke. Beliefs are not divided by East and West, and different cultures hold respect to each other.

“半城烟火半城仙”是对泉州最富诗意的当代表达，它精准捕捉了这座城市尘世烟火与精神遗产和谐共生的独特魅力。作为宋元时期举世闻名的港口，泉州曾是国际贸易的重要枢纽，也是一座多元文化交融的海上都市，吸引着来自世界各地的宗教信仰、技艺行会与异域族群。漫步于泉州街头，一条古老的街道两旁，历史的痕迹清晰可见。古朴庄严的佛塔、静穆典雅的清真寺、香火缭绕的庙宇并肩而立。信仰不分东西，文化彼此尊重.

The Qingjing Mosque was built in 1009 AD during the Northern Song Dynasty, it is the oldest extant Islamic mosque in China and a UNESCO-listed site. Unlike the wooden halls and eaves typical of Chinese religious structures, it is constructed primarily from white and gray granite in a style reminiscent of Middle Eastern Islamic architecture. This makes it visually and culturally distinct from the Buddhist and Daoist temples in the city. It is physical evidence of early Muslim communities in China, likely Yemeni or Persian merchants who settled in Quanzhou and assimilated into the local society during the Song and Yuan dynasties.

清净寺始建于北宋大中祥符二年（公元1009年），是中国现存最古老的伊斯兰清真寺，亦被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。不同于中国传统宗教建筑常见的木结构与飞檐斗拱，清净寺通体以灰白色花岗岩砌筑而成, 使人联想到中东地区典型的伊斯兰建筑风格。这种独特的石砌形制在泉州众多佛教、道教寺庙中格外醒目。清净寺更是早期穆斯林社群在泉州扎根的实物见证。印证了宋元时期阿拉伯、波斯等地的穆斯林商人曾在此定居、通商并深度融入当地社会。

Embedded within the Qingjing Mosque’s courtyard wall, the imperial edict of the Yongle Emperor stands as a powerful symbol of the Ming dynasty’s recognition and protection of Islam in Quanzhou. Issued in the early 15th century, the edict praises the virtue and loyalty of the Muslim community in Quanzhou and commands officials to respect and safeguard their religious practices. This not only reflects the country’s recognition of the religious rights of ethnic minorities, but also demonstrates Quanzhou’s open-mindedness in the coexistence of diverse cultures and religions.

在清净寺幽静的庭院中有一道嵌于墙壁的明代圣旨。这道圣旨出自永乐皇帝之手，颁于15世纪初，是明朝中央政权承认并保护泉州伊斯兰教的有力象征。圣旨不仅赞扬了泉州穆斯林群体的忠诚与品德，还明令地方官员尊重并维护其宗教信仰与生活习俗。这不仅体现了明政府对少数族群宗教权利的认可，也彰显了泉州在多元文化与宗教共存方面的开放胸怀。

In Quanzhou, the most crowded temple must be the The Tonghuai Guandi Temple. It does not belong to any religion and is dedicated to Guan Yu, the legendary general from the Three Kingdoms era who was both loyal and courageous. Guan Yu is worshiped not only for his military prowess but more importantly for his unwavering loyalty, righteousness, and moral integrity. This temple perfectly captures the city’s unique mix of tradition and folk belief that stretches back through centuries.

在泉州，最为热闹香火鼎盛的庙宇，当属通淮关帝庙。这座庙宇不隶属任何单一宗教体系，而是供奉三国时期的传奇将领关羽——一位集忠义、勇武于一身的历史人物。关羽之所以广受敬仰，不仅因其卓越的军事才能，更因为他忠诚不渝、刚正不阿的品格，早已超越历史人物的范畴。在泉州，关帝庙的存在，完美体现了地方传统和民间信仰的深度融合。

Despite the centuries that have passed, the temple is always filled with curling incense smoke and steady streams of worshipers. People come here to seek strength in times of difficulty. Business owners and families burn incense to ask for protection and prosperity. The main building like red-painted walls, intricate wooden carvings, and a series of arched roofs adorned with ceramic dragons is beautiful. But the air was heavy with the scent of incense when I traveled here and the area in front of the temple was surrounded by devotees bowing before the altar and offering sticks of incense.

尽管沧海桑田，岁月更迭，寺庙中依旧香烟缭绕，香客络绎不绝。困境中的人们来到此处，寻求力量与慰藉；商贩与家庭也焚香祈愿，盼得庇佑与昌盛。主殿巍然矗立，红漆墙壁凝重典雅，木雕精巧细腻，拱形屋顶上陶瓷神龙昂首盘踞，尽显匠心与气韵。此刻，浓烈的香火味弥漫在空气中，寺庙前人潮汇聚，虔诚的信众在神坛前肃然鞠躬、献香。

I continued to move to the Tianhou temple in the south of city. In Fujian province, for centuries, Mazu who is the Goddess of the Sea, has held a place of profound spiritual and cultural importance in the lives of the local people. Generations of their families lived by and through the sea. Mazu became their guardian deity. Even overseas, Fujianese migrants carried her image across oceans, building Mazu temples in Taiwan, Southeast Asia and Singapore. The Tianhou Temple is the sacred shrine dedicated to Mazu.

我继续向城南前行参观天后宫。几个世纪以来的福建，象征海洋庇佑的女神妈祖始终深深扎根于人们的精神与文化生活中。世世代代的闽人以海为生，他们的家族与海潮共息，与浪声为伴，妈祖便是守护他们平安归航的神灵。即使漂泊到万里之外，福建移民依然将妈祖的影响带往异乡，在台湾、东南亚乃至新加坡建立起一座座香火鼎盛的妈祖庙。天后宫便是这份信仰的圣地，承载着人们对海神的敬畏与崇敬。

The temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. At the heart of the temple, the statue of Mazu sits serene and dignified, often clothed in bright embroidered robes and wearing a crown of pearls. Flanking her are statues of her two loyal generals—Qianliyan and Shunfeng’er, said to help her see and hear everything happening across the seas. Red lanterns with many benedictory words line the eaves. Intricate stone carvings of dragons, phoenixes, and waves decorate the roof and doorways, evoking the temple’s connection to the ocean.

这座庙宇作为世界文化遗产的一部分。妈祖端坐于庙宇正中，神情庄严而安详，身披色彩鲜艳、绣工精美的长袍，头戴闪耀着珍珠光泽的冠冕。她的两侧立着千里眼与顺风耳的塑像，据传她们协助妈祖洞察海内外的风云变幻。檐下悬挂的红灯笼上书写众多的祝福语。屋顶与门道间，精雕细琢的龙凤与海浪纹饰交相辉映，诉说着庙宇与海洋血脉相连的深厚渊源。

In just one day, I visited numerous temples, each representing a distinct religious tradition. Next, I arrived at the Chengtian Temple which is a quiet and historically rich Buddhist sanctuary. Unlike larger and crowded temples full of tourists, Chengtian Temple is tranquil and calm. Though it may not draw tourists in large numbers, Chengtian Temple remains a living temple, still functioning with monks, prayers, and rituals.

短短一天，我已走访了众多寺庙，每一座都承载着独特的宗教传统与精神内涵。随后，我来到了承天寺这是一处静谧祥和、古韵悠长的佛教圣地。不同于那些香火鼎盛、游人如织的大型寺院，这里始终保持着从容与清净。或许它并不以规模与名声吸引大量游客，但殿宇之间依旧生机盎然：僧侣的诵经声、虔诚的祈祷与庄重的法事，依然如千百年来般流转不息。

First built in the Song Dynasty, Chengtian Temple has undergone numerous reconstructions across the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. The name “Chengtian” (承天) literally means “receiving the mandate of Heaven” . As part of the UNESCO-listed heritage landscape, it shows how different religions coexisted peacefully in ancient Quanzhou. For the temple, there is nothing special but simple. The elegant layout follows traditional Chinese symmetry, with moss covered tiled roofs, historical wooden beams, and peaceful open courtyards. There is a small pagoda on top of the roof. It represents a connection between the earthly world and the spiritual realm and marks the temple as a sacred space where the divine and human meet.

承天寺始建于宋代，历经元、明、清三代多次修葺。其名“承天”，寓意“承受天命、顺应天道”。作为联合国教科文组织世界遗产的一部分，它见证了古代泉州多元宗教和谐共存的历史画卷。寺庙本身并不以奢华取胜，却以古朴而动人心弦。中轴对称的布局、覆以青瓦的屋顶、古韵悠长的木梁、静谧开敞的庭院，无不透露着传统建筑的雅致。屋脊之上，那座小巧的塔宛如天地之间的纽带，寓意神与人相会于此。

The UNESCO World Heritage site “Quanzhou: Emporium of the World in Song-Yuan China” includes a total of 22 component sites like Kaiyuan Temple, Qingjing Mosque, and Tianhou Temple. Luoyang Bridge is one of them as well. Built during the Northern Song Dynasty, Luoyang Bridge is renowned for being the first stone bridge in China built over tidal waters. It was constructed using raft foundations and oyster reef technology. Workers placed oysters at the base of stone piers to bind the underwater structures together. This ecological method made the foundation resilient to tides, erosion, and currents.

When I walked across the bridge over 800 meters long, I noticed rows of stone piers standing steadily in the river. I could imagine its history of connecting the bustling port city with inland roads, facilitating the movement of goods, people, and ideas during the height of the Maritime Silk Road.

联合国教科文组织评选出的世界遗产 “泉州：宋元时期的世界海洋商贸中心”涵盖了开元寺、清净寺、天后宫等22处历史遗迹，洛阳桥便是其中的重要一员。始建于北宋的洛阳桥，是中国第一座建于潮水上的石桥，以其独特的筏式基础与牡蛎礁筑造工艺闻名于世。工匠们在石墩底部铺设牡蛎，让其在水下自然生长，将结构紧密相连。这种生态智慧不仅稳固了桥基，还能抵御潮汐、侵蚀与急流的冲击。

漫步在这座长达八百余米的古桥上，只见一列列石墩如守望的卫士，静立于河面之中，历经千年风潮而不移。仿佛穿越时空，我能想象它在海上丝绸之路繁盛之际，如何将这座繁华的港口城市与内陆大道紧密相连，承载着货物、商旅与思想交流的使命。

I stayed in Quanzhou for two days. My first day concentrated on the humanity heritages like old streets in the old city and my second day was on some natural scenes. Qingyuan Mountain in the north of city is a place where visitors come to reconnect with nature. It is also a spiritual landmark, a place where nature, history, and Daoist thought merge into quiet harmony. Daoism is about understanding how the world works and becoming one with it.

我在泉州停留了两天。第一天沉浸于古城的人文遗产，徜徉于街巷之间；第二天则走向自然，寻访城北的清源山。这里不仅是重拾自然之美的胜地，更是一座精神地标。青山环抱间，自然、历史与道家思想在此交融，织就出一幅静谧而和谐的画卷。道家倡导顺应天地的运行规律，天人合一。

The Giant Stone Statue of Laozi is the mountain’s most famous feature. It was carved in the Song Dynasty. This makes Qingyuan Mountain a nationally significant site of Daoist worship and Laozi veneration. According to local legend and Daoist belief, Qingyuan Mountain is one of the places where Laozi, the ancient philosopher and founder of Daoism once visited, meditated, and eventually transcended the mortal world to become a Daoist deity. The inscription “老子天下第一” carved in front of the Laozi statue means “Laozi is the greatest under Heaven”. In Daoist tradition, Laozi is considered the origin of all wisdom, the one who taught the Dao—the Way that governs all things.

清源山最负盛名的景观，莫过于宋代雕刻的巨型老子石像。正因这尊雕像，清源山自古便被视为全国重要的道教圣地与宗教中心。相传哲学家、道教创始人老子曾在此驻足参悟，最终超脱凡尘、羽化登仙。石像前镌刻的“老子天下第一”四字，不仅彰显着“对老子作为天下第一圣人”的尊崇，更寓意他是道即万物法则的传授者与万世智慧的源泉。

This mountain is not only spiritually important in Daoist tradition, but also celebrated for its natural beauty. The mountain was covered in lush vegetation like ancient cypress trees lining the stone paths and a mix of evergreen and deciduous trees. I climbed from bottom to top along this road using nearly 2 hours.

这座山在道教传统中享有崇高的精神地位，同时也以其秀丽的自然风光闻名遐迩。山间植被繁茂，石板路两旁古柏参天，常绿与落叶乔木交织成四季更迭的画卷。我循着这条小径，自山脚而上，历时近两个小时，方抵达峰顶。

The mountain was dotted with weathered granite boulders, many of them engraved with ancient and durable calligraphy. These rocks were moss-covered, shaded by ferns and wildflowers. Natural springs bubbled from the mountain’s base and flowed gently through these rocks.

山间错落散布着经岁月侵蚀而风化的花岗岩巨石。许多岩面镌刻着古老的书法，字迹遒劲而沧桑。青苔沿着石缝蔓延，蕨类植物和野花掩映其间。山脚下，清冽的泉水汩汩涌出，绕过石间缓缓流淌。

On this early morning, mist rolled over the mountain ridges, creating a dreamlike effect. The view from higher altitudes offered a glimpse of the city through drifting clouds, a striking contrast between the spiritual landscape and modern life. I could roughly see the outline of West Lake faraway. This shifting mist seemed to reflect the Daoist idea of impermanence, of the seen reality and unseen future constantly transforming.

清晨，薄雾如纱，轻绕山峦，仿佛为大地披上了一层梦境。登高远眺，云雾间隐约显现出城市的轮廓，灵性的山水与喧嚣的都市交织成一幅对比鲜明的画卷。远方，西湖的身影若隐若现。那一缕缭绕不散的雾气，恰似道家所言的“无常”。可见与不可见、现实与未知，在流转与变化中相互交融。

In the afternoon, before I left, I took some time to visit the West Lake which is opposite to my hotel. Though not as famous as the West Lake in Hangzhou, it is still a beautiful, tranquil urban lake park that offers a peaceful escape and is infused with layers of historical charm. It is designed in the traditional Chinese garden style with curved stone bridges over calm water, lotus-filled ponds that bloom beautifully in summer, willow trees trailing their long branches into the lake, and graceful, poetic pavilions. The lake is far away from the city center, and I enjoyed a natural quietude.

下午离开前，我特意抽空去了酒店对面的西湖。它或许不及杭州西湖那般闻名遐迩，却依然是一处清雅静美的城市湖泊公园，既为人们提供一方悠然栖息的天地，又蕴藏着深厚的历史韵味。园林布局沿袭传统中式风格，曲折的石桥横跨在澄澈的水面之上，池塘中荷花正值盛夏的灿烂绽放，垂柳轻垂长枝拂水，亭台楼阁点缀其间，透出几分诗意与古韵。远离喧嚣的市中心，这里的清风与湖光，让我尽情享受片刻难得的宁静。

The Quanzhou Museum opposite to the beautiful West Lake provides deep insights into the city’s maritime, religious, and cultural history, particularly during its golden age as a major port on the Maritime Silk Road. There are rich, immersive exhibitions suitable for history lovers, students, and general travelers.

泉州博物馆坐落在秀丽的西湖之畔，与湖水相望。馆内全面呈现了泉州悠久的航海、宗教与文化历史，尤其生动再现了这座古城作为海上丝绸之路重要港口的辉煌年代。丰富多彩的展览内容兼具知识性与趣味性，无论是历史爱好者、莘莘学子，还是闲暇漫游的游客，都能在此收获一段难忘的文化之旅。

There are collections of rare Nestorian Christian tombstones, Arabic inscriptions, and ancient epitaphs. Many pieces were unearthed from cemeteries of foreign communities who lived in medieval Quanzhou. The porcelain exhibitions are a highlight of the Maritime Silk Road displays, showcasing the city’s central role in ceramic trade and production during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Blanc de Chine (Dehua white porcelain) is famous for its smooth, ivory-white glaze and is exported widely to Southeast Asia and Europe.

这里珍藏着稀有的基督教墓碑、阿拉伯文碑刻与古代墓志铭，其中许多出土于中世纪泉州外国社群的墓地。瓷器展区则是“海上丝绸之路”展览的亮点，生动呈现宋元时期泉州在陶瓷生产与贸易中的枢纽地位。德化白瓷以其温润如象牙的釉色闻名于世，远销东南亚与欧洲，见证了泉州海贸的辉煌与繁荣。

Inside, there is a large-scale model of ancient Quanzhou city, offering visitors a panoramic and immersive view of how the city looked during its golden age in the Song-Yuan period. I could clearly see the sinuous city walls, towering main gates (like Chaotian Gate), crossing streets, and the two towers of Kaiyuan Temple and immersed in its old history.

馆内陈设着一座宏伟的泉州古城模型，宛如将宋元盛世的辉煌凝固于眼前。城墙蜿蜒环绕，气势恢宏的朝天门巍然矗立，街道纵横交错，开元寺双塔相对而立，使人仿佛穿越时空，沉浸于古城的繁华与韵味之中。

During my trip I tasted the Minnan cuisine, which is especially representative of the southern Fujian region, including cities like Quanzhou, Xiamen, and Zhangzhou. It is known for its refined techniques, fresh ingredients, delicate flavors, and a touch of sweetness. The Four Fruit Soup is a cold dessert with four toppings like transparent jelly cubes, sweetened red beans, soft lotus seeds, and crisp Nata de coco. It is lightly sweetened and topped with condensed milk, taste not so saturated.

旅途中，我品尝到地道的闽南菜。它是福建南部饮食文化的精粹，涵盖泉州、厦门、漳州等地的风味。闽南菜以精湛的烹饪技艺、新鲜食材、细腻而层次丰富的口感，以及那一抹恰到好处的甜味而闻名。其中，四果汤是一道沁人心脾的冷甜品，碗中盛着晶莹的果冻块、香甜的红豆、软糯的莲子与爽脆的椰果，四种配料交织成清凉的乐章，再淋上一圈浓郁的炼乳，甜而不腻。

The Oyster omelette is one of the most iconic and beloved dishes in Minnan cuisine, widely enjoyed in Quanzhou as well as in Taiwan and parts of Southeast Asia like Singapore. It is a must-try street food that perfectly captures the flavors and textures unique to the coastal Fujianese palate. It a savory dish made with fresh oysters and eggs. Sweet potato starch slurry is mixed into the egg to give the dish a chewy texture. Chopped leafy greens or scallions are added. It is pan-fried on a flat griddle until crispy on the bottom and soft on top. A key part of the dish is the sweet-sour chili sauce that’s generously spooned over the omelette after it’s cooked. It can be a satisfying snack for a seafood lover like me.

海蛎煎是闽南菜中最具代表性也最受喜爱的菜菜品，在泉州、台湾以及新加坡等东南亚地区都享有盛誉。它是街头小吃里的璀璨明珠，将福建沿海的独特风味与口感完美呈现。选用新鲜饱满的牡蛎，搭配鸡蛋与红薯淀粉浆，煎制出的蛋饼外脆内嫩，带着恰到好处的韧性。再拌入翠绿的蔬菜或清香的葱段，于热腾腾的铁板上煎至金黄酥香。出锅后，淋上一勺酸甜微辣的酱汁，咸香与酸辣并存。对于钟情海鲜的食客而言，这道小吃绝对是味蕾的满足。

Ginger Duck is a traditional and deeply flavorful dish of Minnan cuisine. It is made of aged ginger with stronger spiciness and tender duck meat. The dish is usually simmered in a clay pot over low heat, allowing the ingredients to infuse and develop a rich, savory broth. Sesame oil is used to stir-fry the ginger and rice wine is added, both for flavor and warmth. Herbs and spices like goji berries, red dates, star anise, and angelica root are included for their traditional medicinal value. The taste is nice, a bit warming, spicy and lightly sweet.

姜母鸭是闽南传统名肴，以浓郁醇厚的风味著称。精选肥嫩鸭肉，佐以辛香四溢的老姜，以芝麻油文火慢炒，激发姜香的同时，渗出温暖的热意。随后倾入米酒，酒香与姜辣交织，驱寒暖身。再加入枸杞、红枣、八角、当归等具传统药食价值的香料，历经陶罐慢火细炖。入口鲜美，辛辣中透着甘甜，温暖中蕴含滋补。

Exploring Quanzhou has been a deeply immersive journey. It felt like stepping into a living tapestry woven from centuries of history, culture, and spiritual harmony. Wandering through its ancient streets, majetic temples, and bustling markets, I sensed the city’s heartbeat pulsing with the stories of diverse peoples who once gathered here as traders or pilgrims. Quanzhou offers me a rare glimpse into a crossroads of world cultures — where Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, and Daoism coexist peacefully; where the legacy of the Maritime Silk Road still echoes in every stone bridge and mosque; where time slows down amidst verdant mountains and tranquil lakes.

泉州之行宛如一场深情的时光之旅，让人沉醉其中，仿佛步入了一幅由数百年历史、文化与精神交织而成的绚丽画卷。行走在古老的街巷、庄严的寺庙和熙攘的市集间，我仿佛能触摸到这座城市的跳动脉搏，那是多元民族的故事在时光长河中交织的回响。泉州展现了作为世界文化的交汇之地，佛教、伊斯兰教、基督教与道教和谐共处；海上丝绸之路的昔日遗产依旧在每一座石桥、每一座庙宇中低语。时光在翠绿群山与宁静湖泊间缓缓流淌，带给游客无尽的宁静与回味。

Following the Immortals on Heavenly Paths of Wuyi

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仙踪云路武夷行

In the quiet cradle of northwest Fujian lies a sacred land called Wuyi Mountain. This UNESCO World Heritage site is like a living poem, etched in cliffs and whispered by waters, where Taoist sages, Confucian scholars, and tea masters once walked in reflection. Wuyi is not only known for its breathtaking landscapes — crimson cliffs, emerald rivers, and cloud-kissed peaks — but for its legendary rock tea and the graceful balance between culture and nature. I spent three days in this beautiful place during my Christmas trip in 2024 and caught its most splendid moment from morning to evening using my camera.

福建西北部静谧的群山坐落着一片名为武夷的旅游圣地。这座被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的瑰宝，如同一首镌刻在赤壁丹崖上的活诗，山水之间低吟浅唱，道家高士、儒家学者与茶道大师皆曾在此驻足沉思。武夷山不仅以其令人叹为观止的自然美景著称——赤红的岩壁、碧绿的溪流、云雾缭绕的山峰如画卷般铺展开来——更因其传奇的岩茶与自然、人文交融的独特气质而闻名于世。2024年圣诞节，我在这里度过了三天的悠然时光，用镜头追逐晨曦与暮霭，记录下武夷山最动人的瞬间

As the first rays of morning pierced the veil of winter mist, the tea fields of Wuyi Mountain began to stir. The golden sun poured its light across the terraced slopes like warm honey. It spilled over the ridges with a quiet generosity, wrapping the emerald bushes in a soft glow. Shadows retreated behind stone ridges, and the winter chill that once clung to the earth began to ease. In that moment, under the golden winter sun, the tea fields breathe again — calm, green, and alive.

当清晨第一缕柔光突破冬日的薄雾，武夷山的茶田悄然苏醒。金色的晨曦似温暖的蜜，倾泻于错落的梯田之上，为每一株翠绿的茶树披上了柔和的光纱。随着阴影渐渐退到石脊之后，那曾笼罩大地的寒意也随之散去。就在这金色的冬日晨光中，茶田再度焕发出生机——一片宁静、翠绿且充满生命力的景象。

By midday, the sun stood high above its jade-carved ridges, the sunlight was no longer gentle, but bright and steady — like a lantern held by heaven itself. The mist of morning has melted away, revealing the full grandeur of the mountain’s contours. Below, the Nine-Bend Stream flowed with tranquil rhythm, its surface catching fragments of sunlight like broken mirrors. The river bends reflected the sky and mountain, turning blue and green into liquid silk. At this moment, the mountains basked in the warmth cozily.

正午时分，太阳高悬于玉脊之巅，阳光不再柔和，炙热而明亮，如同一盏高高升起的金色灯笼。晨雾早已散去，群山的雄伟轮廓清晰显现，仿佛沉默的巨人肃立在天地之间。九曲溪悄然流淌在山脚下，水面宛如碎裂的镜子，反射着阳光的碎金。河湾中，山峦与天空倒映其间，蓝与绿交织成流动的丝绸，轻轻荡漾。此刻，万物静谧，唯有阳光洒落在山巅与水面，群山仿佛在这金色的洗礼中微微舒展，尽显从容与惬意。

As the sun began its descent behind the distant ridge lines, Xiannü Peak caught the day’s final light. Her gentle silhouette, carved with grace and quiet dignity, stood bathed in a golden radiance, as if she herself is aglow from within. Pale rose, soft gold, and lavender hues wrapped around her like flowing robes of silk. The surrounding peaks darkened, but Xiannü Peak remained luminous and serene, like a goddess suspended between heaven and earth.

当夕阳缓缓沉入远方的山脊，仙女峰悄然捕捉到这一天最后的余晖。她柔和的轮廓在暮色中愈发清晰，如同被雕刻出的宁静与优雅，沐浴在一抹金色的光芒中，仿佛自身也在发光。淡玫瑰、柔金与浅紫交织成梦幻的色彩，如轻纱长裙般环绕其身，为她披上神秘而圣洁的外衣。周围群峰渐渐黯淡，唯有仙女峰依旧熠熠生辉，安详矗立，如一位悬浮于天地之间的女神，静观日落，凝视永恒。

I lived in the hotel not far away from the scenic area. From the streets of Wuyi City, the mountains rose not far away, their green silhouettes etched clearly against the sky. Standing on this bridge, I could easily catch sight of the rolling ridges and majestic cliffs. The boundary between city and mountain here feels soft.

我下榻在一间临近景区的酒店，举目望去，武夷山市街道的尽头便是群山环绕。翠绿的山峦在天幕下轮廓分明，仿佛触手可及。站在桥上眺望，连绵起伏的山脊与雄伟的悬崖一览无遗，如画卷般铺展开来。在这片土地上，城市与山脉仿佛渐渐融为一体，界限变得模糊，仿佛自然悄然渗入了城市的肌理之中

It is really a sanctuary for the weary heart, a place where every breath feels lighter, every step slower. Here, the pace of life softens naturally. Even while walking along the quiet streets, relaxation comes easily. The sky stretched wide and endlessly blue, like a silk canopy unfurled above. The green peaks stood nearby, calm and ever-present. They seemed close enough to touch, always within sight, as if the mountains were quietly keeping company with the town below. As I strolled through the city, the scene was like a living painting—crystal-clear waters meandering through town, their surfaces shimmering under the sunlight, mirroring the sky and cliffs above. The river glided slowly, and its calm flow seemed to carry away every worry.

这里真是一处治愈疲惫心灵的圣地。空气清新，连呼吸都变得轻盈，脚步也不由自主地慢了下来。在这里，生活的节奏仿佛自然地放缓了，就连随意走宁静的街道上，也能让人感到从容与自在。湛蓝如洗的天空，如丝绸般轻柔地铺展开来，令人心旷神怡。近处的群山苍翠欲滴，静谧安然，仿佛就守护在城市的边缘，不动声色地陪伴着每一位过客。它们始终停留在视野之中，带来一种踏实的安宁。漫步城中，眼前的景象犹如一幅流动的画卷。清澈的河水静静蜿蜒穿过城镇，水面在阳光下泛着粼粼波光，映照着蔚蓝的天空与巍峨的山崖。河水缓缓流淌，仿佛把心头的烦忧一并带走，让人心随水远，宁静而澄澈。

There are four major scenic spots in Wuyi Mountain: Tianyou Mountain, The One-Line Sky, Tiger Roaring Rock, and Xiannü Peak. Visitors can go to each place by buses connecting every scenic spot. The travel infrastructure in the area is perfect. Travelers can choose any ways they want like strolling quietly along the stream, direct buses, rugged mountain paths or a romantic trip of bamboo rafts.

武夷山风景区主要包括四大核心景区：天游山、一线天、虎啸岩和仙女峰。各景点之间有观光巴士相连，交通便利，游客可以轻松往返其间。武夷山的旅游基础设施十分完善，无论是沿溪漫步，感受宁静自然；还是搭乘直达巴士，快捷省心；亦或沿着蜿蜒的山路徒步探幽，体验探险之趣；又或是乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪上，享受诗意浪漫的水上之旅，游客皆可依自身喜好自由选择，畅游其间。

Hailed as the most iconic peak of Wuyi Mountain, Tianyou Mountain — meaning “Heavenly Tour Peak” — is a place where the earth seems to merge with the sky. Rising to an elevation of about 408 meters, it is known as the “First Wonderland of Wuyi” and is a must-visit for those seeking the essence of Wuyi’s beauty. The mountain is straight and steep like a very tall wall raised in front of me.

天游山被誉为武夷山最具标志性的山峰。在这里，天地仿佛交融，云雾缭绕间，仿佛步入人间仙境。山峰海拔约408米，有“武夷第一仙境”之称，是领略武夷山之美不可错过的胜地。山势陡峭挺拔，仿佛一道高墙巍然矗立在眼前，既震撼又令人心生敬畏。

The climb to the summit winds through 888 steep stone steps, ancient pines, and dramatic cliffs. Along the way, travelers are very tired but greeted by stunning views of emerald peaks and the famous Nine-Bend Stream curling gracefully below like a jade ribbon. As I ascended higher, the morning mist thinned, the beauty of Wuyi unfolded in my eyes gradually.

攀登顶峰之路蜿蜒曲折，沿途是888级陡峭的石阶，穿行于古松参天、悬崖峭壁交错的山林之间。一路上，游客们虽疲惫不堪，却也被眼前的美景所吸引：翠绿的山峰层层叠叠，九曲溪宛如玉带般在山谷中蜿蜒流淌。随着海拔逐渐升高，缭绕的晨雾缓缓散去，武夷山的壮丽风光也在我眼前徐徐铺展，令人心旷神怡，忘却疲惫。

At the summit, the reward is breathtaking — a panoramic view of the entire Wuyi landscape. Tea fields ripple across the hills, the transparent and clear winding stream glistens like silk, and distant ridges stand in layered blues and greens. On clear days, the sky feels close enough to touch, and the clouds drift past at eye level, creating the sensation of walking through the heavens.

登顶之时，眼前展现出令人叹为观止的壮丽景色——武夷山的秀美尽收眼底。茶田如绿毯般蜿蜒于起伏的山峦之间，清澈透明的溪流宛如丝绸般闪耀，远方的山脊层层叠叠，碧波荡漾。晴朗的天空仿佛伸手可及，云朵轻轻飘过眼前，犹如漫步于天际之间。

The tea terraces represent centuries of craftsmanship and culture of Wuyi. Layer upon layer, the terraces ripple across the slopes like emerald waves, following the curves of the mountains. Here, the famous rock tea grows and is nourished by the mineral-rich soil and the unique mountain mist that drifts through the air. The tea bushes cling to the rugged terrain, their deep roots reaching into cracks of ancient stone. In the early morning, the terraces were veiled in soft fog. As the sun rises, its light gradually melt away the mist, revealing glistening leaves covered with tiny dew droplets, shimmering under the golden glow.

茶叶梯田凝聚了武夷数百年的工艺与文化。层层叠叠的梯田宛如碧波荡漾，沿着山峦的曲线蜿蜒而上。这里生长着著名的岩茶，富含矿物质的土壤和弥漫于空气中的独特山雾滋养着茶树。茶树依傍着崎岖的地形，根系深入古老的石缝之中。清晨时分，梯田被轻柔的雾气笼罩，随着太阳冉冉升起，阳光渐渐驱散薄雾，露出晶莹剔透的茶叶，叶面挂满晶莹的露珠，在金色光芒的映照下熠熠生辉。

Da Hong Pao is called the “King of Rock Teas”. The name Da Hong Pao, meaning “Big Red Robe,” originates from a centuries-old legend. It is said that during the Ming Dynasty, a scholar traveling to the imperial exams fell gravely ill while passing through Wuyi Mountain. Local monks brewed him tea from a special bush growing on the cliffs. After drinking it, he recovered miraculously, went on to excel in his exams, and became a high-ranking official. In gratitude, the emperor sent great red robes to cover the bushes that had produced the miraculous tea.

大红袍，被誉为“岩茶之王”，因其背后流传百年的传奇故事而增添神秘色彩。相传在明朝，一位赴京赶考的书生途经武夷山，不幸染上重病。山中僧人以生长在悬崖峭壁上的一种奇特茶树之叶为他煮茶，书生饮后病体迅速痊愈，顺利参加科举并金榜题名，最终官拜高位。得知此事的皇帝为表嘉奖，特命人将大红袍披于这几株灵茶之上，“大红袍”之名由此流传至今。

In this photo, the six mother trees of Da Hong Pao preserved in the red rails are regarded as national treasures. Due to their extreme rarity and cultural value, harvesting leaves from these ancient bushes has been strictly forbidden since 2006 to preserve them for future generations.

照片中，红色篱笆围护着六棵大红袍母树，被誉为国宝。因其极为珍稀且具有重要的文化价值，自2006年起便被全面禁止采摘，以永久保护这一珍贵遗产，传承给子孙后代。

Wuyi Mountain is laced with countless winding paths, inviting travelers to explore its hidden corners. As I wandered through its serene valleys, it wasn’t just the towering cliffs and emerald waters that drew my gaze. Scattered across moss-covered walls and carved into the rugged cliffs are hundreds of stone inscriptions—some weathered and fading with time, others still strikingly vivid. These ancient etchings feel like whispers from the past. Walking past them, I felt as though I were retracing the footsteps of explorers like Xu Xiake, following the trails they once walked.

武夷山蜿蜒曲折，无数小径在山林间穿行，仿佛在邀请旅人去探寻那些隐秘而静谧的角落。漫步于宁静的山谷，不仅是巍峨的峭壁和碧波荡漾的溪流吸引着我，更多的是岩壁间那些沉默却深刻的印记。青苔斑驳的石壁上，散布着上百处石刻——有的已随岁月风化，模糊了轮廓；有的却依然清晰如昨，气韵犹存。它们仿佛是历史在低语，是前人留下的心声。在这样的山路上前行，我仿佛化身为徐霞客，沿着他当年的足迹，穿越时光。

Winter is better time to visit Wuyi. Most of the evergreen trees—such as pine and bamboo—remain lush and steadfast, their deep green needles and leaves standing firm against the cool air. They blanket the slopes and line the streams. Some maples and sweet gum trees blush with lingering shades of amber, gold, and soft crimson, their leaves fluttering lightly in the wind. The colors are not as fiery as autumn.

冬季是游览武夷山的最佳时节。山中大多数常绿树木，如松树和竹子，依然郁郁葱葱、挺拔苍翠，深绿的枝叶在清冷的空气中显得更加坚韧有力。这些绿色植物覆盖着山坡，沿着潺潺溪流蜿蜒伸展，构成一幅宁静而和谐的冬日画卷。而少数枫树与枫香树，则悄然披上了琥珀、金黄与浅红的斑斓色彩，叶片在山风中轻轻摇曳，虽不如深秋时节那般绚烂，却平添几分静美。

I was heading towards the next destination. As sunlight filtered through the thin winter clouds, the mountain glowed with a quiet radiance—green pines, yellow flowers and golden-brown leaves weave a soft, peaceful tapestry. The air is fresh, cool, and still, and every step through the mountain feels like walking through an ink-wash painting, immersing into nature.

我正缓步朝着下一个目的地前行。阳光穿透冬日薄云，洒落在山峦之间，为大地披上一层温柔的光辉。翠绿的松树、明黄的野花与金棕色的落叶交织成一幅宁静的锦绣画卷。空气清新而凉爽，四周静谧无声。每一步登上山道，都仿佛踏入一幅流动的水墨画，让人沉醉于大自然的诗意之中。

The One-Line Sky was the second scenic spot during my visit in Wuyi. It is a narrow gorge formed by the shifting and splitting of massive rock layers over countless years. It stretches for about 100 meters between two towering stone walls that lean so closely together that, in many parts, only a sliver of sky is visible overhead. I was really scary walking through it since the narrowest sections are barely wide enough for me to pass through, with only a faint band of light high above. The passage twisted and wound, revealing unexpected turns and I paused and looked up at the sliver of blue sky above. the air feels thick and cool. With every step deeper into the gorge, there was a growing sense of suffocation due to the overwhelming closeness of the space. The echo of footsteps reverberates eerily, amplifying the isolation.

一线天是我在武夷山游览的第二个景点。它是一条狭长幽深的峡谷，由亿万年间岩层的挤压与断裂逐渐形成，绵延百余米。两侧石壁高耸入云，几乎贴合在一起，只在顶部留下一线天光。踏入峡谷，最初是惊叹，但很快便被一种莫名的压迫感所笼罩。最狭窄的地方几乎无法侧身通过，头顶只剩下一道细如丝缕的蓝天。峡谷蜿蜒曲折，每一个转角都让人猝不及防。我不时停下脚步，抬头望向那一线天光。峡谷深处空气愈发阴冷，湿润的岩壁透出寒意。脚步声在狭窄空间中回荡，回声奇异，仿佛有人悄然跟随，让人倍感孤独与渺小。随着深入，一种窒息般的幽闭感慢慢加剧。

I quickened my pace, drawn forward by the unspoken desire to escape the closing grip of the rocks. As I finally emerged from the tightest stretch, the gorge widened and light flooded back in. There is an undeniable sense of being safe and free as if the wideness and warmness of world has returned to me.

我加快了脚步，心中那股无声的渴望驱使着我不断前行，只想逃离岩壁的压迫与束缚。终于，从那最狭窄的一段豁然走出，峡谷陡然开阔，阳光倾泻而下。一种难以言喻的安全感与自由感在胸中油然而生，仿佛重新呼吸到了世界的宽阔与温暖。

Among the many peaks that grace Wuyi Mountain, Xiannü Peak — also known as Fairy Maiden Peak stands out with its graceful beauty and timeless legend. Rising quietly by the riverbanks, this peak is famed for its elegant silhouette, said to resemble a celestial maiden wrapped in flowing robes, gazing softly over the landscape like a guardian.

武夷山群峰林立，其中仙女峰尤为引人注目，以其婀娜多姿的身姿与流传千古的传说而著称。仙女峰静静耸立在溪水之畔，线条柔美、轮廓清晰，远望宛如一位身着飘逸长袍的仙女，静静地凝望着四周的山水，仿佛在守护这片人间仙境。

Local legend tells of a celestial fairy who descended from heaven to help tame the floods and protect the people of Wuyi. She fell in love with the land and chose to remain, watching over the valleys and rivers below. Her spirit, as the story goes, became forever entwined with the mountain, her compassion and beauty eternally preserved in the stone.

相传，远古时有一位仙女自天而降，为助武夷百姓平息洪水，守护山川。她为这片青山绿水所倾心，甘愿留下，化作山灵，庇佑万物。人们说，她的灵魂早已与武夷山脉融为一体，她的慈悲与美丽，也悄然镌刻在山间岩石之上，亘古不灭。

I took a rest basked under the warm sunlight on the riverbanks to admire her from below. From this vantage point, the Fairy Maiden appears to watch over the winding Nine-Bend Stream , her reflection is visible in the shimmering waters. This must be the most iconic scene of Wuyi. On midday, when the sun cast clear shadows on the cliffs, her figure grew more distinct, standing tall and poised against the blue sky. In this quiet space, surrounded by mountains and clear stream, I simply sat — no rush, just basking in the sunlight. It felt as though the mountain itself was sharing its timeless serenity with me.

我坐在河岸边，沐浴着温暖的阳光，稍作歇息，抬头仰望那仙女般的山峰。从这个角度望去，仙女仿佛正俯瞰着脚下蜿蜒流淌的九曲溪，身影倒映在粼粼波光中，宛如一幅静谧的画卷。这里，大概是武夷山最具标志性的景致。正午的阳光洒落在峭壁之间，光影勾勒出仙女更加清晰的轮廓。在蓝天白云的映衬下，她显得巍峨而又优雅。四周群山环抱，溪水澄澈透明，我静静地坐着，不急不躁，只是安然地沉浸在这片阳光与山水交融的宁静中。此刻，仿佛连山峰本身也在与我一同分享它那恒久的安详与从容。

I enjoyed spending free time on the riverbank and looked at the bamboo rafts passing by one by one. The water here is as clear as glass, flowing gently over smooth stones and pebbles that glimmer beneath the surface like hidden jewels. In the quiet bends, the stream appears almost motionless, perfectly mirroring the surrounding cliffs, forests, and blue sky above. Lean closer and I could see right to the bottom—tiny fish dart between stones, leaves drift gracefully by, and the soft sands seems to glow with light.

我喜欢在河岸边悠闲地消磨时光，静静地看着一艘艘竹筏缓缓划过水面。这里的河水清澈如镜，轻柔地流过光滑的石块与圆润的鹅卵石，阳光透过水面洒下，它们在水中熠熠生辉，宛若深藏的宝石。静谧的河湾仿佛时光停驻，水面如天然画布，倒映着两岸的悬崖、茂密的林木，和蔚蓝天空。俯身靠近水面，我能清晰地望见河底的世界—小鱼灵巧地穿梭于石缝之间，落叶轻盈地随水漂流，细软的沙粒在阳光照射下泛着点点微光。

For every traveler, drifting on a bamboo raft along the Nine-Bend Stream is an experience not to be missed on a journey through Wuyi. As the raft gently sets off from the riverbank, the world seems to quiet. The only sounds are the soft splash of water against bamboo and the occasional call of a distant bird echoing through the valley.

对于每一位踏上武夷之旅的旅行者而言，乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪之上，都是不可错过的心灵体验。当竹筏缓缓离岸，喧嚣悄然退去，仿佛整个世界都静止了。耳畔只剩下潺潺水声轻拍竹筏，与山谷间偶尔传来的几声鸟鸣。

My trip of bamboo raft started in the very early morning with chill. The raft itself was simple — long bamboo poles lashed together, guided by a skilled boatman who stood at the stern, using a slender pole to steer. With each push, the raft glided smoothly over the crystal-clear waters, moving as effortlessly as a cloud drifting across the sky. The boatman paused halfway, allowing me to take beautiful photos while on the raft.

我的竹筏之旅始于空气清新，气温宜人的清晨。竹筏造型简易结实，由数根粗大的竹竿整齐捆扎而成。一位技艺娴熟的船夫站在筏尾，手持长杆掌舵。他每轻轻一撑，竹筏便在清澈的水面上平稳滑行，仿佛天边的云朵一般轻盈悠然。途中，船夫贴心地停下，让我可以在竹筏上尽情拍照，定格这份美好。

The scenery unfolded slowly, like a painting in motion. On both sides, towering cliffs rose steeply, their faces marked by ancient stone inscriptions and streaked with moss. Above, emerald peaks pierced the sky, some shrouded in mist, others basking in sunlight. Pine trees and bamboo groves leaned over the banks, their reflections swaying gently in the water below.

九曲溪景色徐徐铺展，如同一幅动态的画卷。两岸峭壁巍然耸立，崖壁间布满古老的石刻，青苔斑驳，诉说着岁月的痕迹。远处，翠峰高耸，或隐没在缭绕的云雾中，或沐浴在柔和的阳光里。岸边，松林与竹影相依，倒映在清澈的水面上，随风轻轻摇曳。

As the raft rounds each bend of the meandering stream, new vistas appeared—sometimes a narrow passage where cliffs almost touched. At that moment, I felt completely immersed in the landscape—half drifting, half dreaming. The mountain breeze brushed my face, carrying the faint scent of winter leaves. I enjoyed such a trip of around two hours. My boatman shared legends of the peaks like tales of immortals and lovers. As I glided along, there was no rush, only the soft rhythm of water and the endless unfolding of beauty.

木筏绕过蜿蜒溪流的每一个弯道，新的景致便悄然展开—有时是悬崖两岸几近相接的狭窄水道。此刻仿佛身心完全融入山水之间，半在漂流半入梦。冬叶的淡淡清香伴随山风轻抚我的脸庞，令人心神宁静。这趟约莫两个小时的旅程，如诗如画。船夫娓娓道来山峰的传说以及神仙与恋人的往事。当我随着水流缓缓前行，整个旅程不急不躁，只有溪水温柔的韵律，和眼前无尽的风景相伴。

Wuyi mountain is a perfect place for travelers to spend holidays. I enjoyed the moment when I walked alone the winding mountain path, surrounded by towering cliffs and whispering forests. The stone trail twisted ahead, empty and quiet—no voices, no footsteps, only the soft rustling of leaves and the distant murmur of water tumbling over rocks.

武夷山绝对是旅行者度假的理想之地。漫步于蜿蜒山径之间，仿佛走入一幅静谧的山水画。四周是巍峨的崖壁与低语的森林，石板路在脚下延伸，空旷而宁静——无人的喧嚣，无声的脚步，只有树叶在风中细语，和远处溪水轻拍岩石的呢喃。

There were no other travelers in sight; it felt as though the entire mountain had been reserved just for me. With no one around, I unlocked my phone and switched on the music player. Soon, my favorite song filled my ears, wrapping me in its familiar melody. As the music played, every step seemed lighter, every turn in the path more magical. The rhythm of the song blended with the sounds of nature. In that moment, the whole world seemed to belong to me alone.

四周寂静无声，仿佛整座山峰都为我独自矗立。我掏出手机，打开音乐播放器。熟悉的旋律随即在耳畔响起，将我轻柔包裹。随着音乐缓缓流淌，每一步都变得轻盈，每一道山路的转角仿佛藏着惊喜。歌声与林间鸟鸣、风声水语交织成一首只属于我的交响乐。那一刻，天地辽阔，世界仿佛只为我一人存在。

After ascending winding stone steps shaded by bamboo and ancient pines, I reached one ancient temple called Zhizhi An (止止庵), one of the mountain’s oldest and most secluded temples. Along the way, I could hear the sound of trickling springs and bird calls, as if leading me deeper into the mountain’s heart.

沿着蜿蜒曲折的石阶前行，两侧竹林掩映，古松苍翠，我一步步走向深山中的一座古寺——止止庵。它是山中最古老也最幽静的寺庙之一。一路上，泉水潺潺流淌，鸟鸣清脆婉转，仿佛在引领我走进一片世外之境，

Unlike grand, ornate temples found elsewhere, Zhizhi An is modest, blending gracefully into its mountain setting. Its old stone walls are weathered and moss-covered. Built during the Song Dynasty, the temple has long been associated with Zhu Xi (朱熹), one of China’s most renowned Confucian scholars. It is said that Zhu Xi once practiced quiet meditation here, finding inspiration amid its peaceful surroundings.

止止庵与其他宏伟华丽的寺庙迥然不同，朴素而低调，优雅地融入群山之中。古老的石墙历经风霜洗礼，覆盖着青苔，诉说着岁月的痕迹。这座始建于宋代的寺庙，与中国著名儒学大家朱熹有着深厚渊源。传闻朱熹曾在此静心修学，于宁静幽雅的环境中汲取智慧与灵感。

When I arrived, I was greeted not by grandeur, but by quiet simplicity: a small courtyard framed by old trees and delicate pot plants, and I could smell the faint scent of incense drifting through the air. The tranquility here reminded me the name of this temple which means “Stop and Stop”—a phrase that speaks of halting both physical steps and restless thoughts. When I visited it, my travel in Wuyi would end soon and this will be my last stop of this journey in Wuyi.

抵达这里时，迎接我的不是壮丽的气势，而是一种宁静而古朴的氛围：一个幽静的小院落，古树环绕，盆栽点缀，空气中弥漫着淡淡的香火清香。这份静谧让我联想到寺庙的名字——“止”，寓意着脚步与思绪的停歇。此刻，武夷之旅即将画上句号。

Before I left, I tasted the local dishes in Wuyi Mountain. This region is close to the Jiangxi province and the food is quite spicy. The spicy bamboo shoots fried with sauerkraut is a dish that perfectly captures the bold, rustic flavors of the region. Fresh bamboo shoots, harvested from the thick groves surrounding the cliffs, are prized for their crisp texture. They are stir-fried together with local sauerkraut. The bamboo shoots soak up the rich, spicy flavors of dried chili peppers and fragrant oil, creating a satisfying contrast between crunchy, sour, and spicy. It pairs perfectly with a bowl of freshly steamed rice.

离开武夷山之前，我特地品尝了这里的当地美食。武夷山靠近江西省，当地菜肴偏爱辛辣口味。其中，酸菜炒笋堪称一道地道的乡村佳肴。选用悬崖峭壁附近茂密竹林中采摘的新鲜竹笋，竹笋以其爽脆的质地闻名。竹笋与酸菜一同翻炒，充分吸收了干辣椒和香油的浓郁香辣，口感爽脆且酸辣交织，令人回味无穷。这道美味配上一碗新鲜出炉的米饭，堪称完美搭配。

Wuyi Smoked Duck is one of the region’s most iconic dishes, known for its rich, smoky fragrance and tender meat. Every visitor should try it. The duck is first marinated with local spices and salt, then slowly smoked over a fire fueled by tea leaves, pinewood, and camphor branches—a method unique to the Wuyi region. The result is a beautifully bronzed duck with crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat, infused with a subtle hint of tea and mountain herbs. It’s a dish that perfectly embodies Wuyi’s culinary style.

武夷烟熏鸭是当地最具代表性的美味佳肴，以其浓郁的烟熏香气和鲜嫩多汁的肉质闻名遐迩。每位来到武夷的游客都不容错过这道特色美食。制作过程中，选用优质鸭子，先用当地独特的香料和盐进行腌制，再采用武夷特有的熏制工艺——用茶叶、松木和樟树枝点燃的柴火，缓缓熏烤而成。成品鸭色泽金黄诱人，外皮酥脆，肉质细嫩鲜美，伴随着淡淡的茶香和山药的清幽芳香，令人回味无穷。这道菜完美展现了武夷独特的烹饪魅力和地域风味。

As a solo traveler, I found a rare kind of freedom here. Whether wandering the secluded mountain trails with only the sound of my footsteps or simply sitting by the river, letting the winter sun warm my face, I felt completely at ease. In Wuyi, there is no need to chase sights or rush between attractions. The beauty here is best savored slowly, like a fine cup of rock tea—letting the flavors unfold naturally, each moment revealing something new. For me, the best journeys are the ones where I can travel in my favorite rhythm and experience with my heart!

作为一名独自旅行的旅人，我在这里找到了久违的自由与宁静。漫步在幽静的山间小径，脚步声在林间回响，仿佛与自然对话；坐在河畔，任由冬日暖阳洒在身上，温柔得让人几乎忘了时间。在武夷，无需赶路，无需打卡，每一处风景都不必刻意追寻。它如一杯上好的岩茶，越是静心品味，越能感受到层层叠叠的韵味与惊喜。对我而言，最理想的旅程，就是顺着自己的节奏，慢慢走、用心体验每一刻！

A Slow Stroll Through Fuzhou’s Historic Heart

Posted in China, TravelTagged ,

漫步在福州老城

Fuzhou is the capital of Fujian Province along the Min River and facing the Taiwan Strait. With a history spanning over 2,200 years, Fuzhou was established during the Han Dynasty and later flourished as a prominent port city in the Tang and Song Dynasties. It played a key role in maritime trade and became one of China’s earliest gateways to the outside world.

福州是福建省省会，位于闽江沿岸，直面台湾海峡。福州建城于汉代，唐宋时期发展成为重要的港口城市，拥有长达2200多年的历史。它在海上贸易中发挥了重要作用，也是中国最早通向世界的门户之一。

I started my trip of two weeks in Fujian province during my Christmas holiday 2024. The first impression of this place is this photo of rugged and mountainous landscape taken in flight. Nearly 90% of Fujian’s land is covered by hills and mountains, making it one of the most mountainous provinces in China.

2024年圣诞假期，我开启了为期两周的福建之旅。对这片土地的第一印象就是这张在飞机上拍摄的崎岖山地照片。福建全省近90%的土地被丘陵和山脉覆盖，是中国山地最多的省份。

The wide Min River is the lifeline of Fuzhou and the most important river in Fujian Province, winding like a silver ribbon through this city. The river also played a central role in the rise of Mawei Port, a key base of China’s modern navy, Fujian Naval force in the 19th century. The riverbanks nowadays have been transformed into parks, walkways, and resident zones.

宽阔的闽江是福州的生命线，也是福建省最重要的河流，它像一条银色的丝带蜿蜒流淌于这座城市。这条奔流的大河对马尾港的崛起也起到了至关重要的作用。马尾港是19世纪中国近代海军福建水师的重要基地。如今，河岸已被改造成公园、步道和住宅区。

The city is best known for its well-preserved historical neighborhoods, such as Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, where visitors can walk through centuries of architectural heritage. The Three Lanes and Seven Alleys is often called the “living fossil of China’s ancient city street system.” It showcases traditional Chinese urban planning, architecture, and social life from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The houses in this area are classic examples of Fujian-style residential architecture, featuring white walls and gray-tiled roofs. My trip started from this alley. Walking through it feels like stepping into a time capsule of Qing dynasty life.

这座城市以其保存完好的历史街区三坊七巷而闻名，游客可以漫步于拥有数百年历史的建筑遗产之中。三坊七巷被称为“中国古代城市街道体系的活化石”。它展现了明清时期中国传统的城市规划、建筑和社会生活。该地区的房屋是典型的闽式民居建筑，以白墙灰瓦为特色。我的旅程就是从这条巷子开始的。漫步其中，仿佛迈进了大清历史的时光隧道。

This neighborhood was home to over 500 notable historical figures, including Lin Zexu and Yan Fu. The area is named after its layout of three lanes (坊 ) and seven alleys (巷 ), arranged in a grid-like pattern running from west to east. These lanes and alleys were originally residential quarters for wealthy families, scholars, and high-ranking officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. In the photo, this is the entrance of Pagoda Alley (塔巷) characterized by a small pagoda at the top of entrance.

这片街坊曾居住过包括林则徐和严复等500多位著名历史人物。因其有三个坊和七个巷的布局而得名，这些巷道呈东西走向，呈网格状分布。他们最初是明清时期富裕家庭、文人墨客和达官显贵的住宅区。图中这是塔巷的入口，其特点是入口上方有一座小塔。

Wang Qi’s residence

Wang Qi’s residence is a fine example of traditional southern Chinese courtyard architecture. It exhibits many features typical of Fujian folk homes, while also displaying the elegance of an upper-class scholar’s estate. Wang Qi (王麒) was a prominent official during the Qing Dynasty. He came from a distinguished family of scholars and held high-ranking positions in the imperial bureaucracy. The residence follows a central axis, with rooms and halls arranged in balance on both sides.

王麒故居是中国南方传统庭院建筑的典范，既保留了福建民居的诸多特色，又不失上流士族宅邸的雅致。王麒是清朝一位杰出的官员，出身名门望族，在朝廷官僚体系中担任要职。故居沿中轴线布局，两侧房间和厅堂均衡分布。

Unlike the grand imperial gardens of Beijing, this garden of the residence is more subtle and scholarly in tone. A central stone-paved path winds through a small but well-planned green space and rockery feature (假山). Potted bonsai, flowering plants, and fragrant herbs are arranged with care, reflecting the taste of a cultured homeowner.

与北京的大型皇家园林不同，这处宅邸的花园更显精致典雅，散发着浓郁的文人气息。一条石板小路蜿蜒穿过一片面积虽小但精心规划的绿地和假山。盆栽、花卉和香草的摆放都经过精心布置，体现了主人的品味。

The presence of a water basin with koi fish in a traditional Chinese scholar’s residence is deeply rooted in Chinese culture. Koi fish symbolizes wealth and prosperity, making them popular in homes seeking a peaceful and auspicious atmosphere. There was an ancient legend of “Carp Leaping Over the Dragon Gate” , where a carp that successfully jumps a gate is transformed into a dragon—a metaphor for a scholar rising to official rank by passing the imperial exams.

传统的文人住宅中养锦鲤一直根植于中国文化中。锦鲤象征着富贵昌盛，因此在追求祥和祥瑞的家庭中颇受欢迎。古代有“鲤鱼跃龙门”的传说，鲤鱼成功跃过龙门后腾云化龙，象征着文人通过科举考试获得仕途。

Yan Fu’s Former Residence

Yan Fu’s Former Residence is another famous cultural heritage site in the Pagoda alley. Yan Fu was a renowned scholar, translator, and reform thinker during the late Qing Dynasty. He is best known for introducing Western ideas—such as liberty and democracy to Qing Dynasty through translations of influential works like The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith. Yan Fu was one of the first Chinese intellectuals to realize the importance of modern science and Western political thought.

严复故居是塔巷另一处著名的文化遗产。严复是晚清著名的学者、翻译家和维新思想家。他最为人称道的是翻译了亚当·斯密的《国富论》等影响深远的著作，将自由和民主等西方思想引入清朝。严复是最早意识到现代科学和西方政治思想重要性的中国知识分子之一。

Yan Fu’s home is a typical late Qing scholar’s courtyard house, but it stands out for its simplicity and restrained elegance—reflecting Yan Fu’s own character and intellectual discipline. The woodwork, especially on door frames and windows, includes modest but refined carvings, with traditional motifs or calligraphic couplets.

严复故居是典型的晚清文人大院，以其简朴内敛的特点而引人注目，体现了严复的性格和学术严谨。门框和窗户上的木制雕刻尤为朴素精致，以传统图案以及书法对联为主。

The old wooden tables and chairs in Yan Fu’s residence reflect the scholar-official lifestyle of the late Qing dynasty. They are made of solid hardwood—likely elm, Chinese rosewood, or Red Sandalwood. These tables are sturdy and age-worn, rectangular with clean lines, mortise-and-tenon joints. High-backed armchairs are tall and upright, composed of a single, gently curved back splat, designed to support posture and encourage upright sitting—mirroring the scholar’s moral uprightness.

严复宅邸中的古旧木桌椅，体现了晚清士大夫的生活方式。它们由硬木的实木制成，木材料可能是榆木、花梨木或紫檀木。这些长方形桌子坚固耐用，饱经风霜，线条简洁，由传统的榫卯结构拼装而成。高背扶手椅高大挺拔，由一整块略微弯曲的靠背构成。这种椅子鼓励端正坐姿，良好的坐姿也体现了士人的正直品格。

I took a photo with Yan Fu’s statue in the garden planted with many bamboos. In Chinese culture, bamboo is a symbol of the gentleman-scholar (君子)—upright, resilient, and humble. It bends but does not break, reflecting strength with flexibility. This perfectly mirrors Yan Fu’s character: principled but open to reform, rooted in tradition yet responsive to change.

我在种满竹子的花园里与严复的雕像合影。在中国文化中，竹子象征着君子—以及正直、坚韧、谦逊的个性。它折而不挠，体现了力量与柔韧的双重性。这完美地体现了严复的性格：原则性强却又思想开放，根植于传统却又积极响应社会变化。

Tianhou Gong (天后宫), also known as the Temple of the Queen of Heaven, is a traditional Chinese temple dedicated to Mazu. This kind of religious building can be found most in Fujian province. Mazu is venerated as the protector of fishermen, sailors, and merchants. The Tianhou Temple is a place where people pray for safe voyages, favorable weather, and bountiful catches. Mazu’s worship spread with Chinese emigrants, so these Tianhou temples can be found in Taiwan and Southeast Asia like Singapore.

天后宫是一座供奉妈祖的传统中国庙宇。这类宗教建筑在福建省最为常见。妈祖被尊崇为渔民、水手和商人的守护神。天后宫则是人们祈求航海平安、风调雨顺、渔获丰收的地方。妈祖崇拜随着中国海外移民而在世界传播开来，因此在台湾、新加坡等东南亚地区都能找到这类天后宫建筑。

The quiet alleys without name just allow one person to pass through and really attract me to explore. They are narrow and winding, paved with aged stone slabs, polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic. They weave between whitewashed walls of ancient residences which are living museums of Chinese urban life—whispering with the voices of history. The saddle-shaped walls are characteristic of Fuzhou’s traditional architecture. These mud-plastered walls curve outward at the top, resembling the shape of a saddle.

那些静谧的小巷，没有名字，只容一人穿行，却深深吸引着我去探索。它们蜿蜒狭窄，铺着古老的石板，经过几个世纪的岁月磨得光滑平整。它们穿梭于古老民居的粉墙之间，这些民居如同中国城市生活的活博物馆，低声诉说着历史的韵味。马鞍形的墙体是福州传统建筑的特色。这些敷泥的墙体中间顶部向两侧弯曲，形似马鞍。

Lang Guan Alley is one of the seven major alleys. Its name literally means “Officials’ Alley,” reflecting its historical role as a residential area for government officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Shaded by ancient trees, the narrow flagstone path wound between stone door frames carved with calligraphy or age-old family mottoes.

郎官巷是七巷之一。它的名字反映了其在明清时期作为官府官员居住区的历史地位。狭窄的石板路蜿蜒在古树成荫的街道间，门框上雕刻着书法或古老的家训。

Shen Baozhen’s Former Residence

Shen Baozhen’s Former Residence is one of the most significant cultural and historical site. Shen Baozhen (1820–1879) was a prominent naval reformer, and diplomat during the late Qing Dynasty. A native of Fuzhou, he was one of the earliest Chinese officials to actively promote Westernization and modernization.

沈葆桢故居是当地重要的文化历史遗迹之一。沈葆桢（1820-1879）是晚清杰出的海军改革家和外交家。他出生于福州，是中国最早积极推动西化和现代化的官员之一。

His house is a spacious and well-preserved courtyard compound. The main hall with wooden beams, intricate lattice window was used for receiving guests and conducting family rituals. Now it is used to display his portrait, biography and personal achievements.

他的故居是一座宽敞且保存完好的大院。主厅采用木梁结构，格子窗造型繁复，这里曾用于接待宾客和举行家庭庆祝仪式。现在，这里陈列着他的画像、生平简介和个人事迹。

As a statesman, he founded Chinese first naval academy, the Fuzhou Naval Academy (船政学堂) in 1866 and oversaw the construction of China’s first modern navy. He also advocated for technological reform and industrial modernization during the Self-Strengthening Movement. This photo in the main hall shows the 1871 batch of students of navy academy in their graduation ceremony. Most of these students fought for their country in the Battle of the Yellow Sea between the Qing Dynasty of China and Meiji Japan.

作为一名政治家，他于1866年创办了中国第一所水师学堂——福州船政学堂，并监督建造了中国第一支现代海军。在洋务运动期间，他还倡导技术改革和工业现代化。主厅里这张照片展示了1871届水师学堂学生的毕业典礼。这些学生大多参加了清朝与明治日本在黄海的甲午海战，大多为国捐躯。

Within the Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, there is a distinct heart-shaped ficus tree. It is a popular photo spot for couples and travelers. The tree standing against the backdrop of gray-brick walls, ancient eaves, and blue sky make it a perfect place of photography.

三坊七巷内，有一棵造型独特的心形榕树，是情侣和游客的热门拍照地点。在灰砖墙、古老的屋檐和蓝天的映衬下，榕树显得格外醒目，是绝佳的拍照打卡地。

Lin Zexu’s former residence

The most famous person lived in Three Lanes and Seven Alleys before must be Lin Zexu. He is one of the historical figures I respect most. He really did his best to help the country moving forward without considering self-interest. This is the historical museum of Lin Zexu and his former residence. He was a pioneer of China’s early modernization and anti-drug efforts. His life mark an effort in the nation’s struggle with foreign imperialism and internal reform.

三坊七巷以前住过最著名的人物当属林则徐。他也是我最敬重的历史人物之一。他不计个人私利，竭尽所能，推动国家进步。这里是林则徐故居及其历史博物馆。他是中国早期现代化和禁毒运动的先驱。一生标志着抗击外国帝国主义和内部改革的努力奋斗经历。

It is a traditional Fuzhou architecture, including wooden beams, stone courtyards, and ancestral halls. It displays Lin Zexu’s calligraphy, family history, and personal items and offers a glimpse into the daily life of a high-ranking Qing official. The Main Exhibition Hall displays the chronicles of Lin’s life and moral philosophy. It exhibits the history of Opium War, and artifacts such as imperial edicts, inks, and maps.

这是一座包括木梁、石砌庭院和祠堂等传统元素的福州建筑。馆内展出了林则徐的书法、家族史和个人物品，让游客得以一窥清朝高官的日常生活。主展厅则展示了林则徐的生平和价值观，并展出了鸦片战争的历史以及清朝的圣旨、墨迹和地图等文物。

These statues highlights Lin Zexu’s role as the founder of China’s anti-drug efforts. In 1839, Lin Zexu was appointed by the emperor as the Imperial Commissioner to eradicate the opium trade in Guangzhou. He famously ordered the confiscation and destruction of over 1,000 tons of opium at Humen, sending a clear message against foreign drug trade. His uncompromising stance brought him into direct conflict with British merchants who brought opium to China, becoming one of the catalysts for the First Opium War.

这些雕像彰显了林则徐作为中国禁毒运动奠基人的地位。1839年，林则徐受皇帝任命为钦差大臣，负责铲除广州的鸦片贸易。他下令没收并销毁虎门一千多吨鸦片，打响了反对外国毒品贸易的第一枪。他强硬的立场使他与将鸦片带入中国的英国商人发生了直接冲突，成为第一次鸦片战争的导火索。

The couplet “苟利国家生死以，岂因祸福避趋之” is one of the most famous quotes from Lin Zexu. It means ‘If it benefits the nation, I shall sacrifice my life without hesitation; How could I shrink away from it because of personal gain or loss?’ He wrote while serving as an imperial envoy during the Opium War. It has become a moral touchstone in Chinese history, frequently quoted to inspire courage and self-sacrifice.

这幅对联“苟利国家生死以，岂因祸福避趋之”是林则徐最著名的诗句。林则徐在鸦片战争期间出使钦差大臣时写下了这句名言。这句名言已成为中国历史上的道德试金石，经常被用来激励人们树立勇气和奉献精神。

Tucked within the gray walls and wooden halls of Lin Zexu’s ancestral home lies a quiet and small garden. Winding stone paths guide visitors through small groves of bamboo, camellia, and osmanthus. A central pond mirrors the sky and soft eaves, adding a sense of stillness. A simple pavilion perhaps was once used by Lin Zexu himself to compose verses or study state affairs. Nowadays most people lived in the small and limited space within one apartment. The life will be wonderful if I can own such a small garden in my house!

林则徐祖宅灰墙木厅之间，藏着一座静谧的小花园。蜿蜒的石径引领游人穿过竹林、山茶和桂花的小树林。中央的池塘映照着天空和柔和的屋檐，更添一份静谧。一座简朴的亭子，或许是林则徐本人曾经吟诗作赋或研读国事的地方。如今，大多数普通人都挤在狭小的公寓里。如果我的家里也能有这样一个小花园，生活该有多美好啊！

Behind Lin Zexu’s residence, there is a small river. This is a very representative street view of Fu Zhou. This city has a long history of ficus tree planting along the river so it is called “The City of Ficus”. In AD 940, the city Governor Zhang Boyu of the North Song Dynasty officially promoted the planting of ficus trees throughout the city. His goal was to provide shade, control floods, and beautify the environment. From then on, the ficus became inseparable from the city’s identity.

林则徐故居门后有一条小河。这是福州极具代表性的街景。福州沿河种植榕树的历史悠久，故有“榕城”之称。公元940年，北宋太守张伯玉正式在全城推广种植榕树，以达到遮荫、防洪、美化环境的目的。从此，榕树便成为福州这座城市不可分割的一部分。

The streets of Fuzhou are often described as green corridors where history and nature intertwine. Due to its subtropical climate and centuries of civic greening, the landscape is defined by lush vegetation that brings both aesthetic charm and practical comfort to daily life. Bougainvillea is planted along fences and garden walls. Palm Trees, Camphor Trees and Osmanthus are planted along wide boulevards and waterfront promenades.

福州的街道犹如历史与自然交织的绿色长廊。得益于亚热带气候和数百年来的绿化，这里植被茂盛，美观又舒适，为日常生活增添了便利。沿着篱笆和花园围墙种植着三角梅。棕榈树、樟树和桂花等热带植物则种植在宽阔的林荫大道和滨河长廊两旁。

The West Lake of Fuzhou is one of the city’s most cherished historical and scenic spots. It is not far away from the Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, and tourists can visit them all together within a whole day. Its history can be dated back to the Western Jin Dynasty (265–316 AD). When I arrived at 5:30 pm, the last light of the day spilled across the surface of the lake like melted gold, turning the still water into a mirror of warm amber. The sun dip slowly behind the distant pavilion rooftops and willow-covered banks.

福州西湖是这座城市最具历史意义的名胜之一。它与三坊七巷相距不远，游客可以在一天之内游览完所有景点。它的历史可以追溯到西晋时期。我下午5点半到达时，夕阳西下，金光洒落在湖面上，将平静的水面映照成一面温暖的琥珀色镜子，缓缓落入远处亭台楼阁和柳树掩映的湖岸之后。

The stone Nine-Bend Bridge glowed with a gentle fire. Overhead, a few egrets glide silently across the sky, their wings illuminated in the golden glow, leaving only ripples behind them. It was winter of Fuzhou, the cold air of evening settled gently over the city when darkness came. A faint mist began to rise from the lake’s surface, and the once-golden light gives way to shades of silver and soft indigo.

九曲石桥泛着柔和的余霞。头顶上，几只白鹭静静地滑过天空，它们的翅膀中闪闪发光，身后只留下几道涟漪。这是福州的冬天，夜幕降临，傍晚的冷空气轻轻地笼罩着这座城市。湖面上开始升起一层薄薄的薄雾，那刻冬日的金色光芒逐渐褪去，取而代之的是清冷的银色和柔和的靛蓝色。

At night, I tasted the local food in a small restaurant. Lychee Meat is one of Fuzhou’s most iconic traditional dishes. Despite its name, it does not contain any actual lychee fruit—instead, the dish is named for its appearance, which mimics the shape and color of ripe lychees. Lean pork with some fat is covered by starch, then adding vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and tomatoes or ketchup inside. The pork is deep-fried and then stir-fried in a sweet-and-sour sauce. The cuisine in Fuzhou always has sweet and sour taste and I really don’t like it.

夜幕降临，我在一家小餐馆品尝了福州的特色菜。荔枝肉是福州最具代表性的传统菜肴之一。虽然名字叫荔枝肉，但这道菜的配料并非荔枝，而是模仿成熟荔枝的形状和颜色而得名。这道菜的配料是将带点肥的瘦猪肉裹上淀粉，再加入醋糖、酱油、番茄酱。肉先油炸，再用糖醋酱翻炒。福州本地的菜总是带有糖醋口味，我不太喜欢这样的酸甜口。

I stayed in Fuzhou for three days and traveled a historic neighborhood called Upper and lower Hang Street on the second day. It was once the economic and commercial center of ancient Fuzhou, especially during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

我在福州呆了三天，第二天游玩了上下杭这个历史悠久的街区，这里曾经是古代福州尤其是明清的经济商业中心。

It was a key hub for maritime trade, especially along the Min River. The district used to be bustled with trading boats, merchant houses, ancestral halls, and courier stations, linking inland Fujian with ports in Southeast Asia. Now it’s a live storybook of Fuzhou’s past.

从这里到闽江沿岸曾是海上贸易的重要枢纽。这里曾经熙熙攘攘，商船穿梭，商厦林立，驿站星罗棋布，连接着福建内陆与东南亚的众多港口。如今，这片景区已成为福州历史的见证。


Today, this district has been restored and revitalized into a blend of living museum and modern lifestyle space. It has well-preserved Qing and Republican-era buildings with arched gateways, red-brick walls, and wooden lattice windows. Stone-paved lanes lined with tea houses, galleries, cafes, and boutiques. Old docks and riverfront views echoed its trading past.

如今，这片区域经过修复，已成为一个融合了生活气息的博物馆和现代生活方式的步行街景区。这里保存着清朝和民国时期的拱形门楼，红砖墙和木格窗交相辉映。石板小巷两旁林立着茶馆、画廊、咖啡馆和精品店。古老的码头和河畔景色，回荡着旧日往事。

I could have a quiet walk along the historic lanes and looked at former residences of wealthy merchants and influential families. They were built with red brick, gray granite, and timber beams, these homes have an earthy dignity. Time has softened their sharp lines, and moss grows gently along shaded walls.

静静地漫步在历史悠久的小巷，欣赏富商显贵的故居。这些房屋用红砖、灰色花岗岩和木梁建造，散发着朴实庄重的历史感。时间磨平了它们棱角分明的线条，青苔在阴凉的墙壁上早已生根发芽。

Carved lintels and stone door frames still bear inscriptions of family mottoes, trade names, or poetic couplets, now faded but still legible in the morning light. Against the weathered gray of Fuzhou’s traditional masonry, some vivid details stand out. Painted wooden panels and colorful relief carvings told story scenes from Chinese opera or classic literature. Towering over these walls are ancient banyan trees. Their long, arching branches embrace the houses, providing shade.

雕花的门楣和石框上依然刻着家训、商号或对联，虽然字迹已褪色，但在晨曦中依然清晰可辨。在传统砖石建筑饱经风霜的灰色衬托下，一些鲜活的细节格外醒目。彩绘木板和色彩斑斓的浮雕讲述着中国戏曲或古典文学的故事场景。古老的榕树高耸于这些白墙之上，它们修长拱起的枝干将房屋环抱，提供阴凉。

One museum here displayed the traditional clothing of the She ethnic group which is one of China’s officially recognized ethnic minorities, living in the mountainous regions of Fujian. The traditional attire for She women is colorful. The blouse is a black or dark blue long-sleeved top, cross-collared or with side-fastening buttons. It is embellished with bright trims, hand embroidery, and silver ornaments around the collar and sleeves.

一家博物馆展示了畲族的传统服饰。畲族是中国官方承认的少数民族之一，居住在福建山区。畲族女性的传统服饰色彩鲜艳。上衣是黑色或深蓝色的长袖上衣，有对襟或侧扣。上衣饰有鲜艳的饰边、手工刺绣，领口和袖口周围饰有银饰。

The Sui Gong Pavilion is a small but culturally rich pavilion tucked in one corner. Its dark-tiled roof is gently curved, typical of southern Chinese architectural style. The wooden beams are carved with subtle patterns and supported by sturdy timber pillars. A small wooden plaque bears the inscription “遂公亭” in graceful calligraphy. The space is small and simple but assembles the Chinese architecture details.

遂公亭，一座小巧却蕴含着浓郁文化气息的亭子，坐落在街边一隅。亭顶黑瓦微微拱起，是典型的江南建筑风格。木梁雕琢精妙，由坚固的木柱支撑。一块小木匾上，隶书书法优美地刻着“遂公亭”四个大字。亭子虽小，却简洁明了，凝聚了中式建筑的精髓。

Hualin Temple

Fuzhou has many historical buildings. The most treasured monument must be the Hualin Temple. It is the oldest surviving wooden temples in southern China. It was first built during the Tang Dynasty, witness to over a thousand years of spiritual devotion.

福州还拥有众多历史建筑。其中最宝贵的古迹当属华林寺。它是中国南方现存最古老的木结构寺庙，始建于唐代，见证了千余年来人们的精神信仰。

The Main Hall was reconstructed during the Northern Song Dynasty and is the oldest wooden structure in Fuzhou. It is the only building remained in the temple, but indeed a Song dynasty masterpiece of dougong (bracket system) architecture. No nails or metal fittings were used to build it—only timber pieces are fitted together with precision. China once had an extraordinarily rich tradition of wooden architecture—some of the finest and most advanced in the ancient world—but relatively few ancient wooden structures have survived because they are vulnerable to time, nature, and war. This temple is a small number of ancient wooden buildings remain nowadays.

寺庙正殿重建于北宋，是福州最古老的木结构建筑。它是寺内唯一现存的建筑，堪称宋代斗拱结构的杰作。建造过程中未使用任何钉子或金属配件，仅将木块精准地拼合在一起。中国曾经拥有极其丰富的木结构建筑，其中一些在古代世界也是翘楚，但由于受时间、自然环境影响和战火的侵蚀，现存的古代木结构建筑非常稀少。这座寺庙是如今少数几座保存至今的古代木结构建筑之一。

Yu Hill

Fuzhou has many small hills and pagodas are built on these hills. The “Three Hills and Two Pagodas” are a poetic and historical symbol of Fuzhou, capturing the cultural, and architectural essence of the city. Yu Hill is one of the famous three hills and it has been a sacred and scholarly site since the Tang Dynasty. It was often visited by scholars, poets, and officials, who came here to write poetry.

福州山峦叠嶂，宝塔耸立于山上。著名的“三山两塔”是福州诗意而又充满历史的象征，浓缩了这座城市的文化和建筑精髓。于山是三山之一，自唐代以来一直是文人墨客的圣地。文人、仕宦们常常来此吟诗作赋。

The Qi Jiguang Memorial Shrine (戚公祠) was erected on its southern slopes to honor the Ming Dynasty general’s valiant battles against Japanese pirates in 1562. It was surrounded by scenic pavilions, engraved stones, and historic sites. At its heart stands a statue of Qi Jiguang in full armor, framed by murals depicting his naval battles.

戚公祠建于于山南坡，以纪念这位明朝将领于1562年英勇抗击倭寇的壮举。祠四周环绕着风景秀丽的亭台楼阁、石刻古迹和历史遗迹。祠堂中央矗立着一尊身着全副盔甲的戚继光塑像，周围环绕着描绘其海战的壁画。

Qi Jiguang is a legendary general of the Ming Dynasty. In the mid 16th century, China’s southeastern coast, including Fujian, was plagued by wokou —Japanese pirates. In 1562, Fuzhou and its surrounding regions were under siege, suffering from looting and burning. Qi arrived in Fujian and quickly assessed the weaknesses of local defenses. He reorganized the military, improved training, built watchtowers, naval fleets, and coastal fortifications. He introduced a new disciplined army, including his famous “Mandarin Duck Formation” (鸳鸯阵)—a tactical arrangement that balanced long and short-range attacks. In his way, the major sea routes are cleared, enabling trade and peace to return to the region.

戚继光是明朝一位传奇将领。16世纪中叶，包括福建在内的中国东南沿海地区饱受倭寇的侵扰。1562年，福州及其周边地区被围困，城内烧杀抢掠，民不聊生。戚继光抵达福建后，迅速评估了当地防御的薄弱环节。他重组军队，加强训练，修建瞭望塔、水师舰队和海岸防御工事。他引入了一支纪律严明的新军队，令士兵操练著名的“鸳鸯阵”，这是一种兼顾远近攻势的战术。他率领戚家军打通了主要的海上航线，使该地区恢复了贸易与和平。

Dinguang Temple

Located at the western foot of Yushan Hill, it is one of the oldest and best-preserved ancient Buddhist temples in Fuzhou, Dinguang Temple. Founded during the Late Tang Dynasty (circa 904–905) by Wang Shenzhi, the ruler of the Min Kingdom. He first built the White Pagoda to honor his deceased parents.

定光寺位于于山西麓，是福州现存最古老、保存最完好的古佛寺之一。该寺始建于晚唐（约904-905年），由当时割据政权闽国国王王审知创建。王审知最初为祭拜已故的父母而建造了寺中的白塔。

The original pagoda was struck by lightning and burned down in the Ming Dynasty. In 1548, the seven-story octagonal brick White Pagoda was rebuilt at that time. The 41 meter tall tower is a striking city landmark and forms part of the famous “Three Hills and Two Pagodas” landscape, facing the counterpart Black Pagoda across town.

原塔在明代遭雷击焚毁。1548年重建了图中这个七层八角砖砌的白塔。这座41米高的塔楼是这座城市引人注目的地标，与城对面的黑塔遥相呼应，构成了著名的“三山两塔”景观。

As part of the iconic “Three Hills and Two Pagodas” landscape, Wu Hill is opposite to the Yu Hill. It is a lush, quiet retreat nestled within the urban core. This hill’s altitude is only 84–87 meters but has many cliff inscriptions dating from Tang to Qing dynasties. Tourists can visit both cultural heritages together in one afternoon.

乌山是标志性的“三山两塔”景观的一部分，与于山遥相对望。它是一处郁郁葱葱、静谧的休憩胜地，坐落在城市核心地带。乌山海拔仅84至87米，却保留着许多唐代至清代的摩崖石刻。游客可以在一个下午同时游览两处文化遗产。

Daoshan Pavilion is one of the most historically and culturally significant buildings on Wu Hill. The pavilion is mentioned in Zeng Gong’s famous essay, which is record of a visit to Wu Hill, and made the Daoshan Pavilion a literary landmark. It has a description of the scene from this pavilion ‘From that spot, the splendor of the mountains and rivers, the vastness of the city, and the magnificence of the buildings—all could be taken in at a glance. Chancellor Cheng remarked that, situated above rivers and seas, this place for viewing the landscape could be compared to the Daoist fabled mountains of Penglai, Fangzhang, and Yingzhou. Thus, he named it the Pavilion of Daoshan.”

道山亭是乌山最具历史文化意义的建筑之一。唐宋八大家曾巩在游乌山的著名散文《道山亭记》中曾提及此亭，并描述了乌山的风景，使道山亭成为了一个文学地标。原文为‘为亭于其处，其山川之胜，城邑之大，宫室之荣，不下簟席而尽于四分。程公以谓在江海之上，为登览之观，可比于道家称蓬莱、方丈、瀛州之山，故名之曰“道山之亭”。

The Black Pagoda at the foot of Wu Hill is one of the city’s most iconic ancient landmarks, paired with the White Pagoda. This tower of height 30 meters was built of blackish granite during the Tang–Song transition period. In traditional Chinese feng shui, pagodas act as spiritual stabilizers, believed to ward off evil and bring cosmic balance. The two towers black and white, form an energetic yin-yang complement to protect the city.

位于乌山脚下的黑塔与白塔并列，是这座城市最具标志性的古代地标之一。这座高30米的塔建于唐宋之际，采用黑色花岗岩建造。在中国传统风水学中，宝塔能够辟邪去恶并带来风水平衡。这两座塔黑白相望，形成一种能量的阴阳互补，守护着这座城市。

My journey to Fuzhou unfolded in the quiet hush of winter, a season when few tourists wander its streets. Though it may not dazzle on the covers of glossy travel magazines or dominate influencer itineraries, Fuzhou holds an unusual authenticity. As I strolled through its lanes, the city’s enduring identity whispered through centuries-old architecture and timeworn traditions. Fuzhou did not seek to impress me—but that was its charm. It offered me a close encounter with a place deeply rooted in its own story.

我的福州之旅在静谧的冬日展开，此时的福州街头，游客寥寥无几。尽管福州或许不会登上光鲜亮丽的旅游杂志封面，也不会成为网红行程的主角，但它却拥有着独特的真实感。漫步于巷弄之间，这座城市的底蕴在百年建筑和悠久传统中悄然流露。福州并不会让我感到惊艳—但这正是它的魅力所在，让我与这座拥有绵长丰富历史的城市进行了一次亲密的邂逅。