The Sound of Water and Leaves Shadows in Minoh

箕面的水声与树影

After spending time in the lively streets of Osaka, I decided to take a break from the crowds and travel to Minoh, a peaceful town surrounded by forested hills just outside the city. Compared to the vibrant streets of Namba and Dotonbori, it felt like another world. My pace slowed, the air became fresher, and the city noise gradually faded away, replaced by the rustling of leaves in the wind and the tranquility of nature.

在大阪熙熙攘攘的街头漫步之后,我决定暂时远离城市的喧嚣,前往箕面。箕面是一座宁静的小镇,坐落在大阪城郊,四周被森林覆盖的山丘环抱。与难波、道顿堀的繁华街道相比,这里仿佛是另一个世界。脚步慢了下来,空气也变得更加清新,耳边的城市喧嚣渐渐远去,取而代之的是风吹树叶的沙沙声和大自然宁静的气息。

After I get off from the train, I arrived at this small town in the north of Osaka. What I particularly enjoyed about Minoh was its tranquility. Compared with Osaka’s famous tourist attractions, Minoh receives far fewer international travelers, and even the popular walking trail can feel surprisingly peaceful. There were moments when I could simply walk along the forest path without being surrounded by tour groups or crowds, but only the swaying shadows of the trees and the rustling sound of foot accompanying me.

下了火车,我便来到了大阪北部的这座小镇。箕面最让我心旷神怡的,便是它难得的宁静。与大阪那些著名的旅游景点相比,这里接待的国际游客少得多,就连热门的徒步路线也显得格外安静。有时,我甚至可以独自沿着林间小路漫步,四周不见旅行团的喧闹,也没有熙熙攘攘的人群,只有树影婆娑和脚下的沙沙声相伴。

The journey to Minoh was not about checking off famous landmarks. Instead, it was about enjoying the simple experience of walking through the forest, listening to the flowing water, watching the leaves move gently in the breeze, and taking my time to appreciate the scenery. Sometimes, the most memorable places on a journey are not the ones filled with people, but the quiet ones where I can slow down and truly feel my surroundings.

箕面之旅并非为了打卡名胜古迹,而是为了享受漫步林间的简单乐趣。聆听潺潺流水,欣赏微风轻拂树叶,放慢脚步,细细品味沿途的风景。有时,旅途中最令人难忘的地方并非人潮涌动之处,而是那些静谧的角落,在那里我可以放慢脚步,真正感受周围的一切。

By December, I had already missed the best time to see Minoh’s famous maple leaves. The brilliant reds and oranges of autumn had largely disappeared from the trees, leaving only memories of the season that had just passed. The ground was covered with a thick carpet of fallen leaves, their faded reds, oranges and browns scattered across the forest path.

到了十二月,我已经错过了观赏箕面著名红叶的最佳时节。秋日里绚丽的红、橙色彩大多已经从枝头褪去,只留下些许对那段绚烂时光的回忆。取而代之的,是铺满地面的厚厚落叶,褪去鲜艳色彩的红、橙与褐色交织散落在林间小路上。

The December morning was a little cold. I could feel the crispness of winter in the air, but the sunlight was warm. Golden rays filtered through the remaining green leaves above me, falling softly onto the path and warmed my face. Looking down at the leaves beneath my feet, I felt that each step made a soft, gentle sound, as if the forest was quietly accompanying my walk. Without the crowds of the autumn season, I could walk slowly and listen to the water, the rustling leaves and the occasional sound of birds.

十二月的清晨有些寒意。空气中弥漫着冬日的清冽,但阳光却温暖宜人。金色的阳光透过头顶残存的绿叶,轻柔地洒落在小径上,温暖着我的脸庞。低头看着脚下的落叶,我感觉每一步都发出轻柔的声响,仿佛整片森林都在静静地陪伴着我。没有了秋季熙熙攘攘的人群,我可以放慢脚步,聆听潺潺的流水声、沙沙的落叶声和偶尔传来的鸟鸣。

As I walked through Minoh Park, I passed several old temples that were quiet and almost empty, with very few tourists around. The peaceful surroundings made the journey feel unbothered and unhurried. Being able to walk alone through the temples and forest gave me a sense of solitude and allowed me to fully appreciate the beauty of nature.

漫步箕面公园,我经过了几座古老的寺庙。寺庙静谧而空旷,几乎看不到人影,游客也寥寥无几。这样的宁静,让整个旅程多了一份悠闲与从容,没有匆忙赶路的感觉。独自一人穿行于古寺与森林之间,也让我能够静下心来,尽情领略箕面自然之美。

Hidden deep within the forest, the ancient temple seems to belong to an isolated world. The weathered wooden beams, etched by time, stood silently beneath the pale winter sky. Moss-covered stones were scattered throughout the woods, quietly disappearing into the dense undergrowth. A thin mist swirled among the treetops and blurred the boundary between heaven and earth, immersing the entire forest in a tranquil and mysterious atmosphere.

隐匿于森林深处的古老神庙,仿佛属于另一个与世隔绝的世界。斑驳的木梁历经岁月侵蚀,泛着深沉而幽暗的色泽,静静伫立在苍白的冬日天空下。覆满青苔的石块散落林间,悄然隐没于茂密的灌木丛中。薄雾缭绕在树梢之间,朦胧了远近的景物,也模糊了天地的界限,整个山林仿佛沉浸在一片静谧而神秘的氛围之中。

I walked all through the main walking route follows the Minoh River through the forest. The path was gentle and enjoyable, making it possible to appreciate the scenery without the feeling of a difficult mountain hike. Along the way, the sound of running water accompanied the walk, while tall trees created a cool and refreshing canopy overhead.

我沿着主步道一路走完,这条步道沿着箕面川穿过森林。步道平缓易行,让人可以尽情欣赏沿途美景,而不会感到是在进行艰苦的登山活动。一路上,潺潺的流水声伴我前行,高大的树木在头顶形成一片凉爽宜人的树荫。

Himeiwa

Along the forest trail in Minoh Park, there is a remarkable giant rock known as Himeiwa. Unlike an ordinary boulder, Himeiwa looks as though it has been dramatically cut in half by a giant blade. A narrow passage runs between the two enormous pieces of rock, just wide enough for a person to squeeze through. There is also a charming local belief associated with Himeiwa. Passing through the narrow opening is traditionally said to bring the blessing of children, giving the rock a spiritual meaning beyond its unusual appearance.


在箕面公园的林间小径上,矗立着一块名为“姬岩”的奇特巨石。与寻常岩石不同,它仿佛被一把巨刃从中劈开,分成两半。两块巨石之间留下一道狭窄的缝隙,仅容一人侧身通过。关于姬岩,当地还流传着一个颇为迷人的传说:据说穿过这道狭窄的通道,便能得到子嗣的祝福。这段古老传说也为它增添了几分神秘色彩。

Minoh Waterfall

One of the highlights of Minoh Park is Minoh Waterfall, a beautiful 33-metre cascade at the end of the trail. The waterfall is especially impressive after walking quietly through the forest for some time. It is not an enormous waterfall, but its setting makes it particularly beautiful. Surrounded by tall trees and steep forested slopes, the falling water was perfectly integrated into the landscape rather than standing apart from it. I stood there for a while, listening to the continuous sound of water falling over the rocks. The walk through the forest made the waterfall feel like a natural reward at the end of the trail.

箕面公园的一大亮点,便是位于步道尽头的箕面瀑布,落差达33米。在森林中静静漫步了许久之后,眼前的瀑布显得格外令人印象深刻。它或许算不上气势恢宏,却因周围的自然环境而别具魅力。瀑布被高大的树木和层层山林环绕,与四周的景色融为一体,而不是突兀地出现在山间。我在瀑布前驻足良久,静静聆听水流倾泻而下的声音。一路穿过森林的旅程,也让眼前的瀑布更像是一份藏在山林深处的天然馈赠。

After spending some time at Minoh Waterfall, I continued my journey toward Katsuoji Temple, one of the most famous temples in the Minoh area. Instead of returning along the same forest trail, I climbed up from the steps of waterfall toward the main road. The change in scenery was gradual. The narrow forest path gave way to a wider mountain road lined with tall trees. The road gradually led me deeper into the mountains toward Katsuoji. Although the walk was uphill in places, I enjoyed taking my time and appreciating the changing landscape.

在箕面瀑布稍作停留后,我继续前往箕面地区最著名的寺庙胜尾寺。我没有沿着原路返回,而是从瀑布的台阶拾级而上,来到主路。沿途的景色逐渐变化。狭窄的林间小路变成了一条两旁绿树成荫的宽阔山路。这条路引领我深入群山,最终抵达胜尾寺。虽然有些路段是上坡,但我很享受这段悠闲的旅程,细细品味着沿途不断变化的风景。

Katsuoji Temple

Eventually, I arrived at the Sanmon of Katsuoji Temple, famous for its thousands of Daruma dolls and its long history of being associated with victory and good fortune. Surrounded by dense forest and carefully landscaped gardens, the temple felt peaceful and secluded, despite being one of the best-known places to visit in the Minoh area.

最终,我抵达了胜尾寺的山门,这座寺庙以数千尊达摩不倒翁以及象征胜利和好运的悠久历史而闻名。寺庙四周环绕着茂密的森林和精心设计的花园,尽管是箕面地区最著名的景点,却依然给人一种宁静幽僻的感觉。

Ponds, bridges, stone paths and carefully maintained gardens blend naturally with the forested mountains. In December, the atmosphere was particularly peaceful. Many of the maple leaves had already fallen, covering the ground with a layer of autumn color. According to temple tradition, the temple was founded in 727 by two brothers, Zenchū and Zensan, who built a small hermitage in the mountains. The temple’s connection with victory also has an interesting origin. During the reign of Emperor Seiwa, the emperor was seriously ill, and prayers were offered at the temple for his recovery. According to tradition, the emperor eventually recovered, and the temple’s spiritual power became associated with victory and overcoming difficulties.

池塘、桥梁、石径与精心维护的庭园巧妙地融入山林之中,浑然天成。十二月的胜尾寺格外宁静祥和。许多枫叶已经飘落,为大地铺上一层淡淡的秋色。据寺院传说,胜尾寺由善秋与善山两兄弟于公元727年创建。两人在山中修建了一座小小的隐修所,也成为这座寺庙最初的起点。胜尾寺与“胜利”的渊源同样颇为有趣。清和天皇在位期间,天皇身患重病,人们纷纷来到寺庙祈福,希望天皇能够早日康复。传说天皇最终痊愈,自此,胜尾寺的灵验便逐渐与“胜利”以及战胜困难联系在一起。

What immediately caught my attention was the extraordinary number of Daruma dolls throughout the temple grounds. These traditional Japanese dolls are symbols of determination and perseverance. Their round bodies and striking faces can be seen sitting on steps, beside pathways, on shelves and among the gardens. Some are large and impressive, while others are tiny enough to fit in the palm of a hand. Walking through the temple grounds felt almost like entering a world of Daruma. Instead of seeing just a few traditional ornaments, I encountered them everywhere I looked. Their presence gave the temple a playful character that contrasted beautifully with its quiet mountain setting.

最先吸引我目光的,是寺庙里随处可见的达摩不倒翁。这些传统的日本人偶象征着坚韧不拔、百折不挠的精神。它们圆滚滚的身躯配上栩栩如生的表情,几乎遍布寺院的每个角落:有的坐在台阶上,有的摆放在小路旁,有的整齐地排列在架子上,还有一些小巧玲珑,甚至可以握在掌心。漫步在寺院之中,仿佛走进了一个充满达摩的世界。它们并非只是点缀庭院的零星装饰,而是随处可见、形态各异地出现在我的视线里。这些达摩为古老寺院增添了一份活泼的气息,也与周围幽静的山林形成了有趣的对比。

The Daruma has large eyes, thick eyebrows and moustache which are traditionally associated with Bodhidharma (Daruma). At Katsuoji Temple, it has a special connection with the temple’s reputation for victory and success. Visitors often buy Daruma when praying for success in an examination, or a competition. What makes Katsuoji particularly fascinating is the sheer number of Daruma scattered throughout the temple grounds. Visitors offered Daruma in designated areas, so the dolls gradually accumulate across the gardens, steps and temple buildings. This creates a very distinctive scene: hundreds or even thousands of red Daruma seemingly watching over the temple from every corner. It is one of the things that makes Katsuoji unlike most other traditional temples in Japan.

达摩不倒翁有着醒目的大眼睛、浓密的眉毛和胡须,这些特征传统上都与菩提达摩,也就是“达摩祖师”联系在一起。在胜尾寺,达摩不倒翁更与寺庙保佑胜利与成功的传统紧密相连。许多游客会在考试、比赛之前购买达摩不倒翁,祈求获得好运与胜利。而胜尾寺最令人印象深刻的,莫过于寺内数量众多、无处不在的达摩不倒翁。游客会将许愿后的达摩供奉在寺内指定的地方,随着时间推移,这些不倒翁逐渐聚集在花园、台阶和寺庙建筑的各个角落。放眼望去,成百上千个红色达摩不倒翁仿佛从寺庙的每个角落守护着它。这也是为什么胜尾寺与其他传统日本寺庙显得截然不同。

One of the other things that caught my attention at Katsuoji was the vivid red colour of its traditional architecture. Against the deep green of the surrounding mountains, the vermilion buildings, gates and bridges stood out with remarkable intensity, creating a scene that felt both elegant and almost dreamlike. I particularly enjoyed the way Katsuoji combines architecture with nature. The buildings are not isolated monuments surrounded by concrete; they are woven into the mountains, gardens, ponds and forests.

胜尾寺最吸引我目光的,莫过于传统建筑那一抹鲜艳的朱红色。在周围苍翠的群山映衬下,朱红色的建筑、鸟居和桥梁显得格外醒目,营造出一种既典雅又如梦似幻的景象。我尤其欣赏胜尾寺将建筑与自然完美融合的方式。这里的建筑并非孤立的混凝土建筑,而是巧妙地融入山峦、花园、池塘和森林之中。

Among the rocks and greenery, I noticed a miniature vermilion shrine surrounded by red railings. A series of bright red traditional torii gates led toward it, creating a striking contrast with the natural landscape. This was Benzaiten Shrine, dedicated to Benzaiten, a deity associated with water, wisdom, music and the arts. I have found many similar things in the garden. Torii are traditionally associated with Shinto shrines, while Katsuoji itself is a Buddhist temple. Historically, however, Buddhism and Shinto were deeply intertwined in Japan for centuries. Before the Meiji period, it was common for Buddhist temples to contain Shinto shrines and for Buddhist and Shinto practices to coexist.

在岩石与绿意之间,我注意到一座小巧的朱红色神社,四周围着鲜红的栏杆。一连串鲜艳的朱红色鸟居向神社延伸,在苍翠的自然景色映衬下格外醒目。这便是弁财天社,供奉着与水、智慧、音乐和艺术相关的神祇弁财天。在胜尾寺的庭园里,我还发现了许多类似的景象。鸟居通常与神道神社联系在一起,而胜尾寺本身却是一座佛教寺院。明治时代以前的日本,佛教与神道长期相互交融,许多佛寺内设有神社,佛教与神道的信仰和仪式也常常共存。

Benzaiten has a fascinating origin. She developed in Japan from Saraswati, an ancient Indian goddess associated with water, knowledge, music and the arts. When Buddhism spread to Japan, this deity was incorporated into Japanese religious traditions and gradually took on additional associations. She is worshipped in many different forms across Japan. Some places have grown into large religious complexes devoted to her, while other, like this little shrine at Katsuoji, was simply a small sacred corner within a much larger temple.

弁财天有着一段颇为有趣的历史渊源。她最初源自古印度掌管水、知识、音乐和艺术相关的女神萨拉斯瓦蒂。随着佛教传入日本,这位神祇也逐渐被融入日本的宗教传统,并在长期的发展过程中获得了更多不同的象征。如今,弁财天国以各种不同的形式受到日本各地的供奉。有些地方甚至逐渐发展成为专门供奉弁财天的大型宗教场所,而像胜尾寺里的这座小小神社,则只是隐匿于一座规模宏大的佛教寺院之中的一方宁静圣地。正是这种大小不一、形式各异的存在,也让我感受到弁财天信仰在日本传统文化中的广泛影响。

As I walked through Katsuoji, I came across a remarkable display of sake barrels stacked in rows along the hillside. Each barrel carried different Japanese characters, names and colorful logos, representing different sake breweries and producers. These were not simply decorations; sake has long played an important role as a religious offering in Japan, and breweries often donate sake to temples and shrines. The scene was particularly striking at Katsuoji. Hundreds of barrels formed a wall of white, black and red, while the elegant vermilion pagoda rose above them among the trees. This creates a scene with a distinctly Japanese character.

漫步胜尾寺时,我在山坡一侧发现了一幅颇为壮观的景象:成排的清酒酒樽层层堆叠,沿着山坡延伸开来。每只酒樽上都印着不同的日文字符、酒造名称和色彩鲜明的标志,代表着来自不同酒藏和酿酒商的清酒。这些酒樽并不仅仅是装饰。清酒在日本的宗教传统中有着悠久的历史,长期以来被作为供品献给神明和寺社,许多酒造也会向寺庙和神社捐赠清酒。而在胜尾寺,这样的景象尤其令人印象深刻。数百只酒樽层层排列,白色、黑色与红色交织在一起,树木之间,一座典雅的朱红色塔楼从酒樽上方高高耸起,构成了一幅极具日本特色的画面。

Tahōtō

The pagoda called Tahōtō originated in ancient India as the stupa, a structure associated with the Buddha and used to preserve sacred relics. As Buddhism spread through Asia, the stupa gradually evolved into different architectural forms. Japanese pagodas are usually built with three or five storeys, with the five-storey pagoda being particularly iconic. The number five has Buddhist and cosmological significance, traditionally representing the five elements: earth, water, fire, wind and space.

胜尾寺的多宝塔有着悠久而深远的历史渊源。它的建筑形式可以追溯到古印度的窣堵坡(stupa),最初是与佛陀相关的宗教建筑,用于供奉和保存佛教圣物。随着佛教逐渐传播到亚洲各地,窣堵坡的建筑形式也不断演变,并在不同地区发展出各具特色的佛塔样式。日本的佛塔通常建有三层或五层,其中五重塔尤为经典和醒目。五这个数字在佛教思想和传统宇宙观中也具有特殊意义,通常象征构成世界的五大要素:地、水、火、风与空。

During my trip, I noticed a series of unusual stone towers standing beside the old pilgrimage route. These were Gorintō, not simply memorial stones but Chōishi, distance markers for pilgrims and it shew directions for the pilgrims. The oldest surviving ones date back to 1247, to the Kamakura period. Standing beside them with hundred years history, I imagined the pilgrims who had walked this same route more than seven hundred years ago. They would have passed these stones one by one like me. The stones therefore felt like more than historical objects. They were silent witnesses to generations of journeys, prayers and footsteps.

沿着古老的朝圣路线行走时,我注意到路旁矗立着一排造型独特的石塔。这些是五轮塔,但它们并不仅仅是用于纪念或供奉的石碑,其中一些还属于“丁石”(Chōishi),是古代为朝圣者设置的距离标记,用来指引和标示沿途的路程。现存最古老的一批石碑可以追溯到1247年,也就是日本的镰仓时代。站在这些历经数百年风雨的石塔旁,我不禁想象,七百多年前,那些前往寺院参拜的朝圣者也曾沿着同一条道路缓缓前行。他们或许像我一样,一块一块地经过这些石头。这些石塔对我而言已经不只是冰冷的历史遗物。它们更像是一群沉默的见证者,见证了数百年来一代又一代人的旅程、祈愿与脚步。

In this temple, I have seen many ancient-looking Buddhist monuments. A weathered stone pagoda rose on one side, while a tall inscription pillar stood like a silent marker beside the path. The large structure on the left is a stone pagoda, built in the traditional Buddhist architectural form. It has multiple levels with projecting roofs, giving it the appearance of a miniature stone version of pagoda. It is quite different from the Tahōtō behind it. The large stone pillar is an inscription monument with the Japanese name of the mountain Ocho-san (応頂山) and the Japanese name of the temple Katsuō-ji(勝尾寺). Japanese character is similar to the Chinese character even I don’t know any Japanese but I could still recognize them. This sense of familiarity that transcends language and culture makes my travels particularly enjoyable.

在这座寺院里,我还看到了许多带有古朴气息的佛教石造遗迹。一侧矗立着一座饱经风霜的石塔,另一侧则是一根高大的石碑,静静地立在道路旁,仿佛无声地守望着来往的行人。左侧这座大型石塔采用传统的佛教塔建筑形式,层层叠起,每一层都带有向外伸展的屋檐,看起来就像是一座以石头雕刻而成的微型塔。它与后方的多宝塔有着明显不同的建筑风格。旁边高大的石柱则是一座铭文碑,上面刻有这座山的名称応頂山以及寺院的名称勝尾寺。虽然我完全不懂日语,但看到这些汉字时,却有一种熟悉的感觉,仍然能够认出其中许多字。这种跨越语言与文化的熟悉感,也让我在旅行中感到格外有趣。

Hondō

The Hondō(main hall) of Katsuō-ji is a traditional wooden Buddhist main hall characterized by its broad tiled roof, deep eaves, and simple wooden structure. The structure is mainly natural wood, with dark brown and muted tones that blend into the mountain setting. Many people visit the Hondō to pray for success, good fortune, and the fulfillment of their wishes. Standing in front of it, I could feel a solemn and peaceful atmosphere.

胜尾寺的本堂(Hondō)是一座典型的日本传统木造佛堂,以宽阔的瓦屋顶、深深伸出的屋檐以及简朴的木质结构为主要特色。建筑以天然木材为主,整体呈现深棕色和沉静的色调,与周围的山林环境自然地融为一体。许多游客和信众来到这里,祈求事业成功、好运降临以及愿望实现。站在本堂前,我能感受到一种庄严而宁静的气氛。

In winter, Katsuō-ji offers a peaceful panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and forests. The bare trees and evergreen foliage create a quiet, subdued landscape immersed in the clouds, giving the scenery a calm and misty appearance. From the elevated temple grounds, I could appreciate the beauty and tranquility of the winter mountains.

冬日的胜尾寺展现出一幅宁静而开阔的山林全景。远处的群山与森林笼罩在淡淡的云雾之中,光秃的树木与常青的枝叶交错其间,使整个景色显得朦胧而宁静。站在地势较高的寺院庭院中,我可以远眺四周,欣赏箕面山间的冬日之美。

After leaving Katsuō-ji, I stopped at a small local restaurant and had unadon for lunch. The dish consisted of tender grilled eel served on a bowl of warm, fluffy rice and covered with a rich, sweet and savory sauce. The plating of the Japanese food was beautifully arranged and visually appealing. It looked simple, but I could feel the chef’s attention to details. The ingredients were carefully placed in the dish, creating a balanced combination of colors, textures, and shapes. The eel had a slightly smoky flavor from the grilling, while the sauce added a delicious balance of sweetness and saltiness. The simple presentation and cozy atmosphere of the small restaurant made the meal feel especially authentic and comforting after visiting the temple.

离开胜尾寺后,我在附近一家小巧的当地餐馆停下来,享用了一份鳗鱼饭作为午餐。热腾腾、松软的米饭上铺着鲜嫩的烤鳗鱼,再淋上浓郁的酱汁,甜咸交织的味道令人十分满足。日本料理不仅讲究味道,也十分注重食物的摆盘。这份鳗鱼饭看似简单,却能感受到厨师对细节的用心。鳗鱼整齐地铺在米饭上,色泽、质感和形状彼此协调,让人还未品尝便已感受到一份视觉上的愉悦。鳗鱼经过明火烤制,带着淡淡的焦香,而酱汁则为鱼肉增添了丰富的甜味与咸香。小餐馆简单而温馨的氛围,也让参观寺庙后的这顿午餐显得格外惬意。

By the time I returned to Osaka, I felt refreshed by my brief escape to Minoh. Although it was only a short journey, the quiet forests, mountains, hidden temples, and crisp winter air created a peaceful distance from the bustle of the city. Walking alone through the tranquil landscape, pausing at old temples, enjoying the scenery and a simple Japanese meal, I found myself slowing down and appreciating the moment. Minoh reminded me that a journey does not have to be long to be meaningful; sometimes, a few hours surrounded by nature are enough to relax, clear the mind, and continue my jourmey with a renewed sense of calm.

回到大阪时,这趟短暂的箕面之行已经让我重新找回了一份轻松与平静。虽然只是短短几个小时的旅程,但幽静的森林、层叠的山峦、隐匿其中的古寺,以及清冽的冬日空气,都让我暂时远离了城市的喧嚣。独自漫步在宁静的山林之间,偶尔停下来参观古老的寺庙,静静欣赏沿途的风景,再坐下来享用一顿简单的日本料理,我的脚步不知不觉慢了下来,也开始更加专注于眼前的风景与当下的感受。箕面让我明白,一段旅程并不需要很长才会留下意义。有时候,只需几个小时置身于大自然之中,就足以让身心得到放松,也带着焕然一新的心情继续前行。

Following the Immortals on Heavenly Paths of Wuyi

仙踪云路武夷行

In the quiet cradle of northwest Fujian lies a sacred land called Wuyi Mountain. This UNESCO World Heritage site is like a living poem, etched in cliffs and whispered by waters, where Taoist sages, Confucian scholars, and tea masters once walked in reflection. Wuyi is not only known for its breathtaking landscapes — crimson cliffs, emerald rivers, and cloud-kissed peaks — but for its legendary rock tea and the graceful balance between culture and nature. I spent three days in this beautiful place during my Christmas trip in 2024 and caught its most splendid moment from morning to evening using my camera.

福建西北部静谧的群山坐落着一片名为武夷的旅游圣地。这座被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的瑰宝,如同一首镌刻在赤壁丹崖上的活诗,山水之间低吟浅唱,道家高士、儒家学者与茶道大师皆曾在此驻足沉思。武夷山不仅以其令人叹为观止的自然美景著称——赤红的岩壁、碧绿的溪流、云雾缭绕的山峰如画卷般铺展开来——更因其传奇的岩茶与自然、人文交融的独特气质而闻名于世。2024年圣诞节,我在这里度过了三天的悠然时光,用镜头追逐晨曦与暮霭,记录下武夷山最动人的瞬间

As the first rays of morning pierced the veil of winter mist, the tea fields of Wuyi Mountain began to stir. The golden sun poured its light across the terraced slopes like warm honey. It spilled over the ridges with a quiet generosity, wrapping the emerald bushes in a soft glow. Shadows retreated behind stone ridges, and the winter chill that once clung to the earth began to ease. In that moment, under the golden winter sun, the tea fields breathe again — calm, green, and alive.

当清晨第一缕柔光突破冬日的薄雾,武夷山的茶田悄然苏醒。金色的晨曦似温暖的蜜,倾泻于错落的梯田之上,为每一株翠绿的茶树披上了柔和的光纱。随着阴影渐渐退到石脊之后,那曾笼罩大地的寒意也随之散去。就在这金色的冬日晨光中,茶田再度焕发出生机——一片宁静、翠绿且充满生命力的景象。

By midday, the sun stood high above its jade-carved ridges, the sunlight was no longer gentle, but bright and steady — like a lantern held by heaven itself. The mist of morning has melted away, revealing the full grandeur of the mountain’s contours. Below, the Nine-Bend Stream flowed with tranquil rhythm, its surface catching fragments of sunlight like broken mirrors. The river bends reflected the sky and mountain, turning blue and green into liquid silk. At this moment, the mountains basked in the warmth cozily.

正午时分,太阳高悬于玉脊之巅,阳光不再柔和,炙热而明亮,如同一盏高高升起的金色灯笼。晨雾早已散去,群山的雄伟轮廓清晰显现,仿佛沉默的巨人肃立在天地之间。九曲溪悄然流淌在山脚下,水面宛如碎裂的镜子,反射着阳光的碎金。河湾中,山峦与天空倒映其间,蓝与绿交织成流动的丝绸,轻轻荡漾。此刻,万物静谧,唯有阳光洒落在山巅与水面,群山仿佛在这金色的洗礼中微微舒展,尽显从容与惬意。

As the sun began its descent behind the distant ridge lines, Xiannü Peak caught the day’s final light. Her gentle silhouette, carved with grace and quiet dignity, stood bathed in a golden radiance, as if she herself is aglow from within. Pale rose, soft gold, and lavender hues wrapped around her like flowing robes of silk. The surrounding peaks darkened, but Xiannü Peak remained luminous and serene, like a goddess suspended between heaven and earth.

当夕阳缓缓沉入远方的山脊,仙女峰悄然捕捉到这一天最后的余晖。她柔和的轮廓在暮色中愈发清晰,如同被雕刻出的宁静与优雅,沐浴在一抹金色的光芒中,仿佛自身也在发光。淡玫瑰、柔金与浅紫交织成梦幻的色彩,如轻纱长裙般环绕其身,为她披上神秘而圣洁的外衣。周围群峰渐渐黯淡,唯有仙女峰依旧熠熠生辉,安详矗立,如一位悬浮于天地之间的女神,静观日落,凝视永恒。

I lived in the hotel not far away from the scenic area. From the streets of Wuyi City, the mountains rose not far away, their green silhouettes etched clearly against the sky. Standing on this bridge, I could easily catch sight of the rolling ridges and majestic cliffs. The boundary between city and mountain here feels soft.

我下榻在一间临近景区的酒店,举目望去,武夷山市街道的尽头便是群山环绕。翠绿的山峦在天幕下轮廓分明,仿佛触手可及。站在桥上眺望,连绵起伏的山脊与雄伟的悬崖一览无遗,如画卷般铺展开来。在这片土地上,城市与山脉仿佛渐渐融为一体,界限变得模糊,仿佛自然悄然渗入了城市的肌理之中

It is really a sanctuary for the weary heart, a place where every breath feels lighter, every step slower. Here, the pace of life softens naturally. Even while walking along the quiet streets, relaxation comes easily. The sky stretched wide and endlessly blue, like a silk canopy unfurled above. The green peaks stood nearby, calm and ever-present. They seemed close enough to touch, always within sight, as if the mountains were quietly keeping company with the town below. As I strolled through the city, the scene was like a living painting—crystal-clear waters meandering through town, their surfaces shimmering under the sunlight, mirroring the sky and cliffs above. The river glided slowly, and its calm flow seemed to carry away every worry.

这里真是一处治愈疲惫心灵的圣地。空气清新,连呼吸都变得轻盈,脚步也不由自主地慢了下来。在这里,生活的节奏仿佛自然地放缓了,就连随意走宁静的街道上,也能让人感到从容与自在。湛蓝如洗的天空,如丝绸般轻柔地铺展开来,令人心旷神怡。近处的群山苍翠欲滴,静谧安然,仿佛就守护在城市的边缘,不动声色地陪伴着每一位过客。它们始终停留在视野之中,带来一种踏实的安宁。漫步城中,眼前的景象犹如一幅流动的画卷。清澈的河水静静蜿蜒穿过城镇,水面在阳光下泛着粼粼波光,映照着蔚蓝的天空与巍峨的山崖。河水缓缓流淌,仿佛把心头的烦忧一并带走,让人心随水远,宁静而澄澈。

There are four major scenic spots in Wuyi Mountain: Tianyou Mountain, The One-Line Sky, Tiger Roaring Rock, and Xiannü Peak. Visitors can go to each place by buses connecting every scenic spot. The travel infrastructure in the area is perfect. Travelers can choose any ways they want like strolling quietly along the stream, direct buses, rugged mountain paths or a romantic trip of bamboo rafts.

武夷山风景区主要包括四大核心景区:天游山、一线天、虎啸岩和仙女峰。各景点之间有观光巴士相连,交通便利,游客可以轻松往返其间。武夷山的旅游基础设施十分完善,无论是沿溪漫步,感受宁静自然;还是搭乘直达巴士,快捷省心;亦或沿着蜿蜒的山路徒步探幽,体验探险之趣;又或是乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪上,享受诗意浪漫的水上之旅,游客皆可依自身喜好自由选择,畅游其间。

Hailed as the most iconic peak of Wuyi Mountain, Tianyou Mountain — meaning “Heavenly Tour Peak” — is a place where the earth seems to merge with the sky. Rising to an elevation of about 408 meters, it is known as the “First Wonderland of Wuyi” and is a must-visit for those seeking the essence of Wuyi’s beauty. The mountain is straight and steep like a very tall wall raised in front of me.

天游山被誉为武夷山最具标志性的山峰。在这里,天地仿佛交融,云雾缭绕间,仿佛步入人间仙境。山峰海拔约408米,有“武夷第一仙境”之称,是领略武夷山之美不可错过的胜地。山势陡峭挺拔,仿佛一道高墙巍然矗立在眼前,既震撼又令人心生敬畏。

The climb to the summit winds through 888 steep stone steps, ancient pines, and dramatic cliffs. Along the way, travelers are very tired but greeted by stunning views of emerald peaks and the famous Nine-Bend Stream curling gracefully below like a jade ribbon. As I ascended higher, the morning mist thinned, the beauty of Wuyi unfolded in my eyes gradually.

攀登顶峰之路蜿蜒曲折,沿途是888级陡峭的石阶,穿行于古松参天、悬崖峭壁交错的山林之间。一路上,游客们虽疲惫不堪,却也被眼前的美景所吸引:翠绿的山峰层层叠叠,九曲溪宛如玉带般在山谷中蜿蜒流淌。随着海拔逐渐升高,缭绕的晨雾缓缓散去,武夷山的壮丽风光也在我眼前徐徐铺展,令人心旷神怡,忘却疲惫。

At the summit, the reward is breathtaking — a panoramic view of the entire Wuyi landscape. Tea fields ripple across the hills, the transparent and clear winding stream glistens like silk, and distant ridges stand in layered blues and greens. On clear days, the sky feels close enough to touch, and the clouds drift past at eye level, creating the sensation of walking through the heavens.

登顶之时,眼前展现出令人叹为观止的壮丽景色——武夷山的秀美尽收眼底。茶田如绿毯般蜿蜒于起伏的山峦之间,清澈透明的溪流宛如丝绸般闪耀,远方的山脊层层叠叠,碧波荡漾。晴朗的天空仿佛伸手可及,云朵轻轻飘过眼前,犹如漫步于天际之间。

The tea terraces represent centuries of craftsmanship and culture of Wuyi. Layer upon layer, the terraces ripple across the slopes like emerald waves, following the curves of the mountains. Here, the famous rock tea grows and is nourished by the mineral-rich soil and the unique mountain mist that drifts through the air. The tea bushes cling to the rugged terrain, their deep roots reaching into cracks of ancient stone. In the early morning, the terraces were veiled in soft fog. As the sun rises, its light gradually melt away the mist, revealing glistening leaves covered with tiny dew droplets, shimmering under the golden glow.

茶叶梯田凝聚了武夷数百年的工艺与文化。层层叠叠的梯田宛如碧波荡漾,沿着山峦的曲线蜿蜒而上。这里生长着著名的岩茶,富含矿物质的土壤和弥漫于空气中的独特山雾滋养着茶树。茶树依傍着崎岖的地形,根系深入古老的石缝之中。清晨时分,梯田被轻柔的雾气笼罩,随着太阳冉冉升起,阳光渐渐驱散薄雾,露出晶莹剔透的茶叶,叶面挂满晶莹的露珠,在金色光芒的映照下熠熠生辉。

Da Hong Pao is called the “King of Rock Teas”. The name Da Hong Pao, meaning “Big Red Robe,” originates from a centuries-old legend. It is said that during the Ming Dynasty, a scholar traveling to the imperial exams fell gravely ill while passing through Wuyi Mountain. Local monks brewed him tea from a special bush growing on the cliffs. After drinking it, he recovered miraculously, went on to excel in his exams, and became a high-ranking official. In gratitude, the emperor sent great red robes to cover the bushes that had produced the miraculous tea.

大红袍,被誉为“岩茶之王”,因其背后流传百年的传奇故事而增添神秘色彩。相传在明朝,一位赴京赶考的书生途经武夷山,不幸染上重病。山中僧人以生长在悬崖峭壁上的一种奇特茶树之叶为他煮茶,书生饮后病体迅速痊愈,顺利参加科举并金榜题名,最终官拜高位。得知此事的皇帝为表嘉奖,特命人将大红袍披于这几株灵茶之上,“大红袍”之名由此流传至今。

In this photo, the six mother trees of Da Hong Pao preserved in the red rails are regarded as national treasures. Due to their extreme rarity and cultural value, harvesting leaves from these ancient bushes has been strictly forbidden since 2006 to preserve them for future generations.

照片中,红色篱笆围护着六棵大红袍母树,被誉为国宝。因其极为珍稀且具有重要的文化价值,自2006年起便被全面禁止采摘,以永久保护这一珍贵遗产,传承给子孙后代。

Wuyi Mountain is laced with countless winding paths, inviting travelers to explore its hidden corners. As I wandered through its serene valleys, it wasn’t just the towering cliffs and emerald waters that drew my gaze. Scattered across moss-covered walls and carved into the rugged cliffs are hundreds of stone inscriptions—some weathered and fading with time, others still strikingly vivid. These ancient etchings feel like whispers from the past. Walking past them, I felt as though I were retracing the footsteps of explorers like Xu Xiake, following the trails they once walked.

武夷山蜿蜒曲折,无数小径在山林间穿行,仿佛在邀请旅人去探寻那些隐秘而静谧的角落。漫步于宁静的山谷,不仅是巍峨的峭壁和碧波荡漾的溪流吸引着我,更多的是岩壁间那些沉默却深刻的印记。青苔斑驳的石壁上,散布着上百处石刻——有的已随岁月风化,模糊了轮廓;有的却依然清晰如昨,气韵犹存。它们仿佛是历史在低语,是前人留下的心声。在这样的山路上前行,我仿佛化身为徐霞客,沿着他当年的足迹,穿越时光。

Winter is better time to visit Wuyi. Most of the evergreen trees—such as pine and bamboo—remain lush and steadfast, their deep green needles and leaves standing firm against the cool air. They blanket the slopes and line the streams. Some maples and sweet gum trees blush with lingering shades of amber, gold, and soft crimson, their leaves fluttering lightly in the wind. The colors are not as fiery as autumn.

冬季是游览武夷山的最佳时节。山中大多数常绿树木,如松树和竹子,依然郁郁葱葱、挺拔苍翠,深绿的枝叶在清冷的空气中显得更加坚韧有力。这些绿色植物覆盖着山坡,沿着潺潺溪流蜿蜒伸展,构成一幅宁静而和谐的冬日画卷。而少数枫树与枫香树,则悄然披上了琥珀、金黄与浅红的斑斓色彩,叶片在山风中轻轻摇曳,虽不如深秋时节那般绚烂,却平添几分静美。

I was heading towards the next destination. As sunlight filtered through the thin winter clouds, the mountain glowed with a quiet radiance—green pines, yellow flowers and golden-brown leaves weave a soft, peaceful tapestry. The air is fresh, cool, and still, and every step through the mountain feels like walking through an ink-wash painting, immersing into nature.

我正缓步朝着下一个目的地前行。阳光穿透冬日薄云,洒落在山峦之间,为大地披上一层温柔的光辉。翠绿的松树、明黄的野花与金棕色的落叶交织成一幅宁静的锦绣画卷。空气清新而凉爽,四周静谧无声。每一步登上山道,都仿佛踏入一幅流动的水墨画,让人沉醉于大自然的诗意之中。

The One-Line Sky was the second scenic spot during my visit in Wuyi. It is a narrow gorge formed by the shifting and splitting of massive rock layers over countless years. It stretches for about 100 meters between two towering stone walls that lean so closely together that, in many parts, only a sliver of sky is visible overhead. I was really scary walking through it since the narrowest sections are barely wide enough for me to pass through, with only a faint band of light high above. The passage twisted and wound, revealing unexpected turns and I paused and looked up at the sliver of blue sky above. the air feels thick and cool. With every step deeper into the gorge, there was a growing sense of suffocation due to the overwhelming closeness of the space. The echo of footsteps reverberates eerily, amplifying the isolation.

一线天是我在武夷山游览的第二个景点。它是一条狭长幽深的峡谷,由亿万年间岩层的挤压与断裂逐渐形成,绵延百余米。两侧石壁高耸入云,几乎贴合在一起,只在顶部留下一线天光。踏入峡谷,最初是惊叹,但很快便被一种莫名的压迫感所笼罩。最狭窄的地方几乎无法侧身通过,头顶只剩下一道细如丝缕的蓝天。峡谷蜿蜒曲折,每一个转角都让人猝不及防。我不时停下脚步,抬头望向那一线天光。峡谷深处空气愈发阴冷,湿润的岩壁透出寒意。脚步声在狭窄空间中回荡,回声奇异,仿佛有人悄然跟随,让人倍感孤独与渺小。随着深入,一种窒息般的幽闭感慢慢加剧。

I quickened my pace, drawn forward by the unspoken desire to escape the closing grip of the rocks. As I finally emerged from the tightest stretch, the gorge widened and light flooded back in. There is an undeniable sense of being safe and free as if the wideness and warmness of world has returned to me.

我加快了脚步,心中那股无声的渴望驱使着我不断前行,只想逃离岩壁的压迫与束缚。终于,从那最狭窄的一段豁然走出,峡谷陡然开阔,阳光倾泻而下。一种难以言喻的安全感与自由感在胸中油然而生,仿佛重新呼吸到了世界的宽阔与温暖。

Among the many peaks that grace Wuyi Mountain, Xiannü Peak — also known as Fairy Maiden Peak stands out with its graceful beauty and timeless legend. Rising quietly by the riverbanks, this peak is famed for its elegant silhouette, said to resemble a celestial maiden wrapped in flowing robes, gazing softly over the landscape like a guardian.

武夷山群峰林立,其中仙女峰尤为引人注目,以其婀娜多姿的身姿与流传千古的传说而著称。仙女峰静静耸立在溪水之畔,线条柔美、轮廓清晰,远望宛如一位身着飘逸长袍的仙女,静静地凝望着四周的山水,仿佛在守护这片人间仙境。

Local legend tells of a celestial fairy who descended from heaven to help tame the floods and protect the people of Wuyi. She fell in love with the land and chose to remain, watching over the valleys and rivers below. Her spirit, as the story goes, became forever entwined with the mountain, her compassion and beauty eternally preserved in the stone.

相传,远古时有一位仙女自天而降,为助武夷百姓平息洪水,守护山川。她为这片青山绿水所倾心,甘愿留下,化作山灵,庇佑万物。人们说,她的灵魂早已与武夷山脉融为一体,她的慈悲与美丽,也悄然镌刻在山间岩石之上,亘古不灭。

I took a rest basked under the warm sunlight on the riverbanks to admire her from below. From this vantage point, the Fairy Maiden appears to watch over the winding Nine-Bend Stream , her reflection is visible in the shimmering waters. This must be the most iconic scene of Wuyi. On midday, when the sun cast clear shadows on the cliffs, her figure grew more distinct, standing tall and poised against the blue sky. In this quiet space, surrounded by mountains and clear stream, I simply sat — no rush, just basking in the sunlight. It felt as though the mountain itself was sharing its timeless serenity with me.

我坐在河岸边,沐浴着温暖的阳光,稍作歇息,抬头仰望那仙女般的山峰。从这个角度望去,仙女仿佛正俯瞰着脚下蜿蜒流淌的九曲溪,身影倒映在粼粼波光中,宛如一幅静谧的画卷。这里,大概是武夷山最具标志性的景致。正午的阳光洒落在峭壁之间,光影勾勒出仙女更加清晰的轮廓。在蓝天白云的映衬下,她显得巍峨而又优雅。四周群山环抱,溪水澄澈透明,我静静地坐着,不急不躁,只是安然地沉浸在这片阳光与山水交融的宁静中。此刻,仿佛连山峰本身也在与我一同分享它那恒久的安详与从容。

I enjoyed spending free time on the riverbank and looked at the bamboo rafts passing by one by one. The water here is as clear as glass, flowing gently over smooth stones and pebbles that glimmer beneath the surface like hidden jewels. In the quiet bends, the stream appears almost motionless, perfectly mirroring the surrounding cliffs, forests, and blue sky above. Lean closer and I could see right to the bottom—tiny fish dart between stones, leaves drift gracefully by, and the soft sands seems to glow with light.

我喜欢在河岸边悠闲地消磨时光,静静地看着一艘艘竹筏缓缓划过水面。这里的河水清澈如镜,轻柔地流过光滑的石块与圆润的鹅卵石,阳光透过水面洒下,它们在水中熠熠生辉,宛若深藏的宝石。静谧的河湾仿佛时光停驻,水面如天然画布,倒映着两岸的悬崖、茂密的林木,和蔚蓝天空。俯身靠近水面,我能清晰地望见河底的世界—小鱼灵巧地穿梭于石缝之间,落叶轻盈地随水漂流,细软的沙粒在阳光照射下泛着点点微光。

For every traveler, drifting on a bamboo raft along the Nine-Bend Stream is an experience not to be missed on a journey through Wuyi. As the raft gently sets off from the riverbank, the world seems to quiet. The only sounds are the soft splash of water against bamboo and the occasional call of a distant bird echoing through the valley.

对于每一位踏上武夷之旅的旅行者而言,乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪之上,都是不可错过的心灵体验。当竹筏缓缓离岸,喧嚣悄然退去,仿佛整个世界都静止了。耳畔只剩下潺潺水声轻拍竹筏,与山谷间偶尔传来的几声鸟鸣。

My trip of bamboo raft started in the very early morning with chill. The raft itself was simple — long bamboo poles lashed together, guided by a skilled boatman who stood at the stern, using a slender pole to steer. With each push, the raft glided smoothly over the crystal-clear waters, moving as effortlessly as a cloud drifting across the sky. The boatman paused halfway, allowing me to take beautiful photos while on the raft.

我的竹筏之旅始于空气清新,气温宜人的清晨。竹筏造型简易结实,由数根粗大的竹竿整齐捆扎而成。一位技艺娴熟的船夫站在筏尾,手持长杆掌舵。他每轻轻一撑,竹筏便在清澈的水面上平稳滑行,仿佛天边的云朵一般轻盈悠然。途中,船夫贴心地停下,让我可以在竹筏上尽情拍照,定格这份美好。

The scenery unfolded slowly, like a painting in motion. On both sides, towering cliffs rose steeply, their faces marked by ancient stone inscriptions and streaked with moss. Above, emerald peaks pierced the sky, some shrouded in mist, others basking in sunlight. Pine trees and bamboo groves leaned over the banks, their reflections swaying gently in the water below.

九曲溪景色徐徐铺展,如同一幅动态的画卷。两岸峭壁巍然耸立,崖壁间布满古老的石刻,青苔斑驳,诉说着岁月的痕迹。远处,翠峰高耸,或隐没在缭绕的云雾中,或沐浴在柔和的阳光里。岸边,松林与竹影相依,倒映在清澈的水面上,随风轻轻摇曳。

As the raft rounds each bend of the meandering stream, new vistas appeared—sometimes a narrow passage where cliffs almost touched. At that moment, I felt completely immersed in the landscape—half drifting, half dreaming. The mountain breeze brushed my face, carrying the faint scent of winter leaves. I enjoyed such a trip of around two hours. My boatman shared legends of the peaks like tales of immortals and lovers. As I glided along, there was no rush, only the soft rhythm of water and the endless unfolding of beauty.

木筏绕过蜿蜒溪流的每一个弯道,新的景致便悄然展开—有时是悬崖两岸几近相接的狭窄水道。此刻仿佛身心完全融入山水之间,半在漂流半入梦。冬叶的淡淡清香伴随山风轻抚我的脸庞,令人心神宁静。这趟约莫两个小时的旅程,如诗如画。船夫娓娓道来山峰的传说以及神仙与恋人的往事。当我随着水流缓缓前行,整个旅程不急不躁,只有溪水温柔的韵律,和眼前无尽的风景相伴。

Wuyi mountain is a perfect place for travelers to spend holidays. I enjoyed the moment when I walked alone the winding mountain path, surrounded by towering cliffs and whispering forests. The stone trail twisted ahead, empty and quiet—no voices, no footsteps, only the soft rustling of leaves and the distant murmur of water tumbling over rocks.

武夷山绝对是旅行者度假的理想之地。漫步于蜿蜒山径之间,仿佛走入一幅静谧的山水画。四周是巍峨的崖壁与低语的森林,石板路在脚下延伸,空旷而宁静——无人的喧嚣,无声的脚步,只有树叶在风中细语,和远处溪水轻拍岩石的呢喃。

There were no other travelers in sight; it felt as though the entire mountain had been reserved just for me. With no one around, I unlocked my phone and switched on the music player. Soon, my favorite song filled my ears, wrapping me in its familiar melody. As the music played, every step seemed lighter, every turn in the path more magical. The rhythm of the song blended with the sounds of nature. In that moment, the whole world seemed to belong to me alone.

四周寂静无声,仿佛整座山峰都为我独自矗立。我掏出手机,打开音乐播放器。熟悉的旋律随即在耳畔响起,将我轻柔包裹。随着音乐缓缓流淌,每一步都变得轻盈,每一道山路的转角仿佛藏着惊喜。歌声与林间鸟鸣、风声水语交织成一首只属于我的交响乐。那一刻,天地辽阔,世界仿佛只为我一人存在。

After ascending winding stone steps shaded by bamboo and ancient pines, I reached one ancient temple called Zhizhi An (止止庵), one of the mountain’s oldest and most secluded temples. Along the way, I could hear the sound of trickling springs and bird calls, as if leading me deeper into the mountain’s heart.

沿着蜿蜒曲折的石阶前行,两侧竹林掩映,古松苍翠,我一步步走向深山中的一座古寺——止止庵。它是山中最古老也最幽静的寺庙之一。一路上,泉水潺潺流淌,鸟鸣清脆婉转,仿佛在引领我走进一片世外之境,

Unlike grand, ornate temples found elsewhere, Zhizhi An is modest, blending gracefully into its mountain setting. Its old stone walls are weathered and moss-covered. Built during the Song Dynasty, the temple has long been associated with Zhu Xi (朱熹), one of China’s most renowned Confucian scholars. It is said that Zhu Xi once practiced quiet meditation here, finding inspiration amid its peaceful surroundings.

止止庵与其他宏伟华丽的寺庙迥然不同,朴素而低调,优雅地融入群山之中。古老的石墙历经风霜洗礼,覆盖着青苔,诉说着岁月的痕迹。这座始建于宋代的寺庙,与中国著名儒学大家朱熹有着深厚渊源。传闻朱熹曾在此静心修学,于宁静幽雅的环境中汲取智慧与灵感。

When I arrived, I was greeted not by grandeur, but by quiet simplicity: a small courtyard framed by old trees and delicate pot plants, and I could smell the faint scent of incense drifting through the air. The tranquility here reminded me the name of this temple which means “Stop and Stop”—a phrase that speaks of halting both physical steps and restless thoughts. When I visited it, my travel in Wuyi would end soon and this will be my last stop of this journey in Wuyi.

抵达这里时,迎接我的不是壮丽的气势,而是一种宁静而古朴的氛围:一个幽静的小院落,古树环绕,盆栽点缀,空气中弥漫着淡淡的香火清香。这份静谧让我联想到寺庙的名字——“止”,寓意着脚步与思绪的停歇。此刻,武夷之旅即将画上句号。

Before I left, I tasted the local dishes in Wuyi Mountain. This region is close to the Jiangxi province and the food is quite spicy. The spicy bamboo shoots fried with sauerkraut is a dish that perfectly captures the bold, rustic flavors of the region. Fresh bamboo shoots, harvested from the thick groves surrounding the cliffs, are prized for their crisp texture. They are stir-fried together with local sauerkraut. The bamboo shoots soak up the rich, spicy flavors of dried chili peppers and fragrant oil, creating a satisfying contrast between crunchy, sour, and spicy. It pairs perfectly with a bowl of freshly steamed rice.

离开武夷山之前,我特地品尝了这里的当地美食。武夷山靠近江西省,当地菜肴偏爱辛辣口味。其中,酸菜炒笋堪称一道地道的乡村佳肴。选用悬崖峭壁附近茂密竹林中采摘的新鲜竹笋,竹笋以其爽脆的质地闻名。竹笋与酸菜一同翻炒,充分吸收了干辣椒和香油的浓郁香辣,口感爽脆且酸辣交织,令人回味无穷。这道美味配上一碗新鲜出炉的米饭,堪称完美搭配。

Wuyi Smoked Duck is one of the region’s most iconic dishes, known for its rich, smoky fragrance and tender meat. Every visitor should try it. The duck is first marinated with local spices and salt, then slowly smoked over a fire fueled by tea leaves, pinewood, and camphor branches—a method unique to the Wuyi region. The result is a beautifully bronzed duck with crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat, infused with a subtle hint of tea and mountain herbs. It’s a dish that perfectly embodies Wuyi’s culinary style.

武夷烟熏鸭是当地最具代表性的美味佳肴,以其浓郁的烟熏香气和鲜嫩多汁的肉质闻名遐迩。每位来到武夷的游客都不容错过这道特色美食。制作过程中,选用优质鸭子,先用当地独特的香料和盐进行腌制,再采用武夷特有的熏制工艺——用茶叶、松木和樟树枝点燃的柴火,缓缓熏烤而成。成品鸭色泽金黄诱人,外皮酥脆,肉质细嫩鲜美,伴随着淡淡的茶香和山药的清幽芳香,令人回味无穷。这道菜完美展现了武夷独特的烹饪魅力和地域风味。

As a solo traveler, I found a rare kind of freedom here. Whether wandering the secluded mountain trails with only the sound of my footsteps or simply sitting by the river, letting the winter sun warm my face, I felt completely at ease. In Wuyi, there is no need to chase sights or rush between attractions. The beauty here is best savored slowly, like a fine cup of rock tea—letting the flavors unfold naturally, each moment revealing something new. For me, the best journeys are the ones where I can travel in my favorite rhythm and experience with my heart!

作为一名独自旅行的旅人,我在这里找到了久违的自由与宁静。漫步在幽静的山间小径,脚步声在林间回响,仿佛与自然对话;坐在河畔,任由冬日暖阳洒在身上,温柔得让人几乎忘了时间。在武夷,无需赶路,无需打卡,每一处风景都不必刻意追寻。它如一杯上好的岩茶,越是静心品味,越能感受到层层叠叠的韵味与惊喜。对我而言,最理想的旅程,就是顺着自己的节奏,慢慢走、用心体验每一刻!

Where Snow Meets Sky: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

雪落玉龙冲云霄

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain or called Yulong is a breathtaking mountain located just north of Lijiang in Yunnan Province. Towering at 5,596 meters, it’s the southernmost snow-capped mountain in the Northern Hemisphere and a sacred peak in Naxi culture, often associated with the guardian deity Sanduo. The mountain is named for its resemblance to a jade dragon lying gracefully among the clouds.

玉龙雪山是一座位于云南省丽江北境的壮丽山峰。它海拔5596米,是北半球维度最南的雪山,也是纳西族文化中的一座圣山,常与守护神三多联系在一起。这座山因其形似一条优雅地盘踞在云雾中的玉龙而得名。

In the sunny morning of June, standing on the charming cobblestone streets of Baisha Old Town, I could observe the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rising dramatically into the clouds. Beyond the tiled rooftops and faded murals of this ancient Naxi village, the sacred snow mountain showed its snow-covered peaks glowing in the sunlight. The journey from Lijiang to the mountain usually takes about 1.5 hours by bus, winding through scenic countryside and small villages. As I left the city behind, the snow-capped peaks began to dominate the horizon gradually.

六月阳光明媚的清晨,在白沙古城迷人的鹅卵石街道上,我注视着远方雄伟的玉龙雪山,它巍峨地耸立在云霄之中。在古老纳西村落的瓦屋顶和褪色的壁画映衬下,这座神圣的雪山向游客展现出白雪皑皑的主峰,在阳光下熠熠生辉。从丽江到玉龙雪山通常乘坐巴士大约需要一个半小时,一路上蜿蜒穿过风景秀丽的乡村,当我彻底离开城市时,白雪皑皑的山峰逐渐笼罩了整个地平线。

As I arrived at the entrance of scenic spot and gazed upwards, the mountain emerged like a silent colossus, its jagged, snow-dusted peaks piercing through a veil of drifting mist. The clouds curled around the mountain’s flanks like flowing silk, revealing glimpses of gleaming ice and ancient rock. Sunlight filters through the clouds, casting a silvery glow on the snow-covered ridges. The contrast between the dark pine forests at the base and the glittering whiteness above is striking, heightening the sense that this is a place touched by the divine.

当我抵达景区入口,抬头仰望,山峰宛如一座安静的巨人,嶙峋的雪峰在层层云雾中若隐若现。云雾缭绕,宛如飘逸的丝绸环绕在山腰,闪闪发光的冰块和古老的岩层在云彩的遮掩下犹抱琵琶半遮面。阳光透过厚厚的云层,在白雪皑皑的山脊上洒下一层银色的光芒。山脚下深邃的松林与山顶晶莹的白雪形成了鲜明的对比,更让人感受到仿佛置身于一片神圣的土地。

The snow mountain is not only known for its towering snow-capped peaks but also for its rich variety of scenic spots like Spruce Meadow, Blue Moon Valley, and Yak Meadow. Separate from the Glacier Park cable car towards the peak, the cable car at mid-level altitude leads visitors to forested trails and open meadows, where they can stroll under tall evergreens with the snowy peaks in the distance.

这座雪山不仅以其巍峨的雪峰而闻名,还拥有例如云杉坪、蓝月谷和牦牛坪等丰富多样的景点。与通往山顶的冰川公园大索道不同,中海拔的缆车引导游客前往山脊中间的森林小径和开阔的草地,在那里,游客可以漫步在高大的常青树下,远眺白雪皑皑的山峰。

Spruce Meadow, is a serene alpine pasture nestled on the eastern slope of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, about 3,240 meters above sea level. Surrounded by towering spruce trees and backed by the majestic snow-capped peaks, it is often described as a “natural oxygen bar”.

云杉坪是一片安静的高山牧场,坐落在玉龙雪山东坡,海拔约3240米。云杉坪周围环绕着高耸的云杉树,背靠雄伟的雪峰,被誉为“天然氧吧”。

Spruce is a type of coniferous evergreen tree that belongs to the genus Picea. These trees are commonly found in cool or mountainous regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The tall and straight trees have sharp, four-sided needles that grow individually from the branches and keep their green needles year-round, making them a symbol of endurance and vitality.

云杉是一种常绿针叶树,属于云杉属,常见于北半球的高山或气候凉爽的地区。这种树木高大挺拔,枝干坚实,树叶呈针状,四面分布,独立生长,终年常绿。它不仅展现出顽强的生命力,也象征着坚韧与生机。

This peaceful meadow holds deep cultural significance for the local Naxi people, who believe it to be a sacred land—a place where lovers pledge eternal devotion and spirits find peace. The area is shrouded in mystery mist. A wooden boardwalk allows me to wander gently through the forest and meadow, soaking in the crisp mountain air.

这片宁静的草甸在当地纳西族人心中有着深厚的文化与精神意义。他们视其为一片圣地——恋人曾在这里立下永恒的誓言,逝去的灵魂也在这里得以安息。薄雾轻笼,山林静谧,为这里增添了一层神秘的氛围。沿着蜿蜒的木栈道,我悠然漫步在苍翠的森林与广阔的草甸之间,呼吸着清冽纯净的山间空气,仿佛走进了一个遗世独立的净土。

Spruce Meadow

As I wandered through Spruce Meadow, it’s not just the towering spruces and misty mountain backdrop that captured my heart. It’s the quiet presence of the animals that call this alpine pasture home. Grazing cattle and gentle lambs moved slowly across the open fields, their dark silhouettes a peaceful contrast against the soft green of the grass and the distant silver peaks. I was totally immersed in the beaty of nature and forgot the elapse of time.

当我漫步在云杉草甸上,吸引我心灵的,不仅是巍峨挺拔的云杉和缭绕在山峦之间的云雾,还有那些悠然栖息在高山牧场上的动物们。成群的牛儿低头吃草,温顺的羊羔轻盈地穿行在开阔的草地上,它们深色的身影与柔软的绿草、远处银白色的雪山交相辉映,构成一幅静谧而生动的高原画卷。此刻,我仿佛与自然融为一体,忘却了时间的流转。

Life moves at a slower and more peaceful rhythm—not just for visitors, but for the local cattle that roam freely through the open fields and forest edges. These animals, often a mix of local mountain breeds and Tibetan yak hybrids, are well adapted to the high-altitude environment and cooler climate. These animals live in harmony with the land, tended by local Naxi herders who have practiced traditional grazing here for generations.

这里的生活节奏变得缓慢宁静——不仅对游客如此,对那些在开阔的草地和林缘间自由徜徉的牛群也是如此。这些牛大多是本地山地牛与藏牦牛的杂交品种,体型结实,适应高海拔和凉爽的山地气候,显得格外沉稳。它们由世代居住于此的纳西族牧民放养,与这片土地建立起深厚而和谐的关系,成为雪山脚下这片宁静天地的一部分。

At the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Blue Moon Valley is a place of breathtaking, otherworldly beauty. Its scene mixed of mountain and water is similar to Jiu Zhaigou. With its turquoise-blue glacial waters, terraced limestone pools, and surrounding forests, the valley looks like a scene lifted from a fairy tale—or a moonlit dream, which is exactly how it got its name.

蓝月谷静静地坐落在玉龙雪山脚下,美得令人屏息,仿佛遗世独立的人间仙境。山与水交织的画面,如同九寨沟般梦幻迷人。碧蓝如玉的冰川融水,层层叠叠的石灰岩水潭,在阳光下泛着神秘的光泽,四周被茂密的森林环抱,营造出一个仿佛只存在于童话中的世界。而当夜色降临,月光洒落水面,整片山谷宛若沉入一场幽蓝的梦境——“蓝月谷”这个名字,便由此得来。

The pure color of the water comes from the mountain’s glacial runoff. Water tumbles down a series of natural white stone steps, forming gentle waterfalls and quiet lagoons. The cleanness of the water is due to its content rich in calcium carbonate, which gives the pools their signature jade and sapphire hues, really mesmerizing.

纯净澄澈的水色源自雪山冰川的融水,沿着天然的白色石阶缓缓流淌,汇聚成轻柔的瀑布与静谧的湖泊。这清凉的泉水富含碳酸钙,赋予湖水如翡翠般的碧绿与蓝宝石般的湛蓝光泽,梦幻如画。

Blue Moon Valley

On clear days, the lagoon reflects the sky like a mirror, creating a glowing crescent shape that resembles a blue moon resting in the valley. Its surface is so still and clear that it reflects clearly the surrounding forests and cliffs like a painting, creating a perfect blend of sky, mountain, and water. I really enjoyed the gentle sound of cascading water. The natural environment made me relax.

晴朗的日子里,泻湖如同一面晶莹剔透的镜子,倒映着湛蓝的天空,勾勒出一道闪耀的新月,仿佛一轮蓝色的月亮静静地依偎在山谷之间。湖水平静澄澈,四周的森林与悬崖清晰倒映在水面上,仿佛天地与湖泊在此完美交融,构成一幅天然的山水画卷。我沉浸在潺潺流水的轻柔声中,心灵被这片纯净的自然抚慰,感受到久违的宁静与放松。

The astonishing sapphire hue of the water really captured my breath. It was so vivid and felt almost unreal. The color glowed under the sunlight, a deep, crystalline blue that shifted and shimmered with every ripple. It’s not the ordinary blue of lakes or rivers, but a gem-like brilliance, as if someone had poured liquid sapphire across the land, giving it eternal glory.

看湖水那令人惊叹的蓝宝石色泽,仿佛能瞬间将我的呼吸凝固。它如此鲜艳纯洁,令人几乎怀疑自己的眼睛是否陷入了一场梦境。阳光洒落在湖面上,湖水泛起深蓝色的光辉,每一次微风吹过,涟漪荡漾,波光闪烁,犹如璀璨星空。这不仅仅是普通湖泊的蓝色,而是如宝石般绽放的光芒,仿佛大自然亲手将液态蓝宝石倾洒在这片大地上,赋予它永恒的光辉。

The calm water became a flawless mirror—so smooth and undisturbed like polished glass. What’s most striking was the sharp, almost surreal line that divides the reflection—the point where blue met green, where sky and forest kissed across the water’s face.

平静的水面如同一面完美无瑕的镜子,光滑如抛光玻璃,静谧无波。最为引人注目的是那条几乎超现实的分界线——蓝色与绿色交织之处,天空与森林在水面上交相辉映。

Walking around the lake was definitely an enjoyable trip like stepping into a living watercolor painting. A well-kept path wound gently along the shoreline, guiding me past a series of glacial-blue pools and cascading waterfalls. The only sounds were the soft murmur of water and the occasional rustle of wind through the trees. As I circled the lake, I passed some scenic viewing platforms where I could stop to take in the full grandeur of the valley and experience the miracle of the nature.

环湖漫步绝对是一段令人陶醉的旅程,我仿佛步入了一幅生动的水彩画中。一条小径沿着湖岸蜿蜒而行,精心维护的步道引领我穿越一片片湛蓝的湖水和轻盈垂落的瀑布。四周弥漫着细水潺潺的声音,偶尔风吹过树梢,带来一阵沙沙的低语。随着我绕湖一圈,沿途经过了几个风景如画的观景台,每一处都让我驻足,深深吸一口清新的空气,陶醉于山谷的宏伟景色中,与大自然的奇妙邂逅永远镌刻在心间。

On the top of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Glacier Park offers one of the most thrilling and unforgettable encounters with alpine beauty. Reached via a dramatic cable car ride that lifts visitors to an altitude of 4,500 meters, the park is a realm of icy wonder—where jagged peaks pierce the clouds and ancient glaciers glisten under the open sky. Standing in this vast world of ice and snow, it feels like entering an isolated world. The surroundings are silent, with only the fresh air and the whistling cold wind. It reminded me of the lyric from’ Let it go’ : The snow glows white on the mountain tonight /Not a footprint to be seen/A kingdom of isolation.

玉龙雪山的山顶上,冰川公园为游客提供了最惊险刺激、最令人难忘的高山美景体验。乘坐缆车,游客将直达海拔4500米的冰川公园,这里宛如一片冰雪奇境——嶙峋的山峰直插云霄,古老的冰川在湛蓝的天空下闪闪发光。站在这片广袤的冰雪天地中,仿佛进入了一个人迹罕至的秘境,周围寂静无声,只有清冽的空气和呼啸的寒风。这一刻,我不禁想起了动画片《Let it go》中的歌词:“今夜山上积雪皑皑,不见一丝足迹,宛如与世隔绝的王国。”

Glacier Park

The landscape spread out in a vast expanse of white. Glacial formations, frozen crevices, and snow-covered cliffs create a powerful, otherworldly scene. The high altitude and low temperature make every step feel like a small triumph—and each pause offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. Visitors of the park commonly experience high altitude sickness symptoms like dizziness and shortness of breath. It is recommended to carry a portable oxygen canister, which is widely available in Lijiang and at the mountain entrance and wear or rent a thick down jacket. It’s a place where we stand face-to-face with the irresistible power of nature.

眼前的白雪皑皑,蔚为壮观,延绵不绝,仿佛天地间的一片纯净无垠的白色世界。冰川的痕迹、冻结的裂缝以及悬崖峭壁上积雪的层层覆盖,共同编织成一幅气吞万里、如同世外桃源般的画卷。高海拔的空气稀薄与低温的严酷,令每一步都像是一次小小的挑战,每一次驻足,便能收获四周群峰与深谷的壮丽全景。

在这里游客常会感受到高原反应,轻微的头晕与呼吸急促非常常见。为了确保安全,携带便携氧气罐(丽江及山口地区随处都在售卖)与穿戴厚实的羽绒服成为了游玩必需的功课。在这片天地之间,我们与大自然的无敌力量不期而遇,感受到那份纯粹的力量与震撼。

As I descended from the towering heights of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I felt as though I was stepping out of a dream. This journey wasn’t just about breathtaking views or stunning photos—it was about the raw, humbling power of nature. The quiet reflections on sapphire waters and the clouds dance around the peaks both left me a deep impression. I could embrace nature closely. Standing in the shadow of the snow-capped ridges, I was reminded how small we are, and how deeply we can feel when nature opens its arms.

从巍峨的玉龙雪山缓缓下山,我仿佛离开了一场缥缈的梦境。此行的意义,远不止于那些壮丽的景色和令人惊叹的照片,更在于深切感受到大自然那股原始震撼心灵的力量。湖面如镜,波光粼粼,山巅的云雾缥缈飘逸,所有的一切都深深刻印在我的记忆中。我可以近距离拥抱大自然。站在雪峰的阴影下,面对那巍峨的山脊,我忽然意识到大自然面前人类是多么的渺小,那份无言的震撼是如此深刻而强烈!