Life Inside Fujian’s Ancient Earthen Homes

走进福建古土楼的烟火人生

Fujian Tulou are traditional communal residences built by the Hakka and other Han Chinese people in the mountainous areas of Fujian Province. These large, earthen buildings are circular or square, designed to house multiple families, functioning both as homes and fortresses. Constructed between the 12th and 20th centuries, tulou structures are made from rammed earth, mixed with stones, bamboo, wood, and other natural materials. Their thick walls provide insulation and protection from bandits and natural disasters. Inside, the buildings are arranged around a central courtyard, with rooms for storage, cooking, sleeping, and socializing.

福建土楼,是福建省山区由客家人及其他汉族群体共同建造的传统集体居所。这些宏伟的建筑多呈圆形或方形,可容纳众多家庭同住,既是安居之所,也是防御之堡。土楼自12世纪起兴建,延续至20世纪,主要以夯土筑成,并辅以石块、竹材、木料等天然材料。厚实的墙体既能隔热御寒,又可抵御盗匪侵扰与自然灾害。其内部空间环绕中央庭院而布置,庭院内设有储藏间、灶房、卧室与公共活动空间。

I visited the Nanjing area in the end of 2024. The village scene in this region is a picturesque blend of traditional architecture, lush nature, and communal rural life. Rolling hills and mountains surround the villages, covered with bamboo groves, pine forests, and terraced tea fields. Clear streams run through the valleys, beside narrow stone paths. Fog settles over the mountains in the early morning, creating a mystical, tranquil atmosphere.

2024年底,我来到南靖游览。这里的乡村景致宛如画卷,传统建筑与葱郁的自然风光、淳朴的乡村生活交织在一起。连绵起伏的丘陵环抱着村落,竹林、松林与层层梯田茶园点缀山野。清澈的溪流在谷间潺潺流淌,两旁蜿蜒着古老的石板路。清晨时分,薄雾弥漫群山,氤氲出一种静谧而神秘的气息。

Life in these villages follows the rhythm of nature. The air is filled with the scent of wood smoke, fresh soil, and steaming food. Stone-paved paths wind through the village, often lined with moss and wildflowers. Several tulous are grouped together, forming a cluster of earthen castles amidst the green backdrop.

这些村庄的生活仿佛随自然的节拍缓缓展开。空气中弥散着柴火的余温、泥土的清新与热气腾腾食物的芬芳。石板小路蜿蜒穿行于村中,两侧常覆着青苔,点缀着野花。几座土楼错落而立,如同质朴的堡垒,静静镶嵌在层叠的绿意之间。

My travel in Fujian was really refreshing for me. As I stepped away from the fast-paced, high-rise rhythm of life in Singapore, I felt a deep wave of relief and excitement wash over me. It was as if the noise, the deadlines, and the constant rush melted away the moment I arrived in this serene village. The tranquil rhythm of rural life: the slow mornings, the sound of roosters, the sight of villagers tending to their fields awakened something in me. I felt no longer tethered to my phone or the clock and found the meaning of life.

福建之行让我身心焕然一新。远离新加坡快节奏、高楼林立的都市生活,我仿佛卸下了沉重的枷锁,一股久违的解脱与欣喜油然而生。所有的喧嚣、deadline与无休止的奔波,都在我踏入这片宁静村落的瞬间悄然消散。这里的生活节奏恬淡安然:清晨的微风伴着公鸡的啼鸣,田间劳作的身影映入眼帘,这一切唤醒了我内心深处的宁静与安定。我仿佛挣脱了手机与时钟的羁绊,重新找回了生活的意义。

Hegui Lou is one of the most remarkable and unique tulou structures. It was my first tulou visited in this area. Built in 1732, Hegui Lou is a square-shaped building, with four stories and over 200 rooms. The name “Hegui” means “Harmony and Nobility”, symbolizing unity and high moral values of the clan. I was standing at the entrance set within thick rammed earth walls. The wooden door panels are thick and reinforced with iron studs and metal strips. Over the door, I found a solemn and ancient wooden plaque bearing its name as well as poetic couplets written on red scrolls.

和贵楼是当地最引人注目极具特色的土楼之一,也是我在此参观的第一座土楼。始建于1732年,它呈方形结构,共四层,拥有两百余间房。楼名“和贵”,寓意和谐与高贵,象征着家族的团结与高尚品德。踏入厚实的夯土墙之内,首先映入眼帘的是以铁钉与金属条牢牢加固的沉重木门。门上悬挂着一方题有楼名的木匾,两侧则贴着写有红字的对联,庄重而古雅。

What makes it especially unique is that it was built on a marshland, an uncommon choice for such heavy structures. Its foundation is made of wooden stakes, driven deep into the soft soil. The building’s rammed earth walls, more than a meter thick, have withstood floods, earthquakes, and wars for nearly 300 years. Above the entrance are some small observation windows, used historically to monitor approaching visitors or defend against intruders. Red lanterns hang along the eaves and add a splash of color and warmth to the austere and simple appearance.

它的独特之处在于建于沼泽之上,这在如此厚重的建筑中极为罕见。地基由木桩深深扎入松软的泥土,以支撑整个庞然大物。厚逾一米的夯土墙,经受了近三百年的洪水、地震与战火的洗礼,依然巍然屹立。入口上方开有数扇小窗,昔日用于监视访客或抵御外敌。屋檐下悬挂的红灯笼,则为这素朴的外观平添一抹温暖与生气。

Behind the towering earthen walls of Hegui Lou, at the edge of a gently sloping field, lies a lush patch of sugar cane. The tall, green stalks sway lightly in the breeze. The field is small but thriving, a reminder of the self-sufficient lifestyle the residents have upheld for generations. A local resident fed long stalks of sugar cane into a hand-cranked press. The machine groans slightly as the stalks are crushed, releasing a stream of cool, pale green juice.

和贵楼高耸的土墙背后,在缓坡田野的尽头,生长着一片繁茂的甘蔗。高大而碧绿的甘蔗秆随微风轻轻摇曳。虽不成规模,却生机盎然,仿佛映照着当地人世代自给自足的生活。只见一位居民将长长的甘蔗送入手摇榨汁机,伴随轻微的嘎吱声,坚韧的蔗秆被慢慢压碎,涓涓淡绿色的汁液随之流出,清凉甘甜。

I lived in the small town called Yun Shuiyao for two days. Its name, which translates to “Ballad of Cloud and Water”, perfectly captures the town’s dreamlike atmosphere. It is surrounded by lush green hills and rice paddies. The streets of Yunshuiyao are paved with smooth river stones, worn by time and footsteps. Traditional wooden houses line the narrow lanes and their dark tiled roofs and red lanterns show the town’s historic charm.

我在云水谣小镇住了两天。小镇的名字完美地诠释了如梦似幻的氛围。周围环绕着郁郁葱葱的青山和稻田。云水谣的街道铺满了光滑的河石,饱经岁月和脚步的侵蚀。传统的木屋排列在狭窄的小巷里,深色的瓦片屋顶和红色的灯笼彰显着小镇的历史魅力。

The most iconic feature of the town is the meandering river that flows gently through it, reflecting the sky and the trees on its calm surface. Along its banks, there are massive ancient banyan trees, some over 800 years old, with their gnarled roots sprawling across stone paths and their branches forming a canopy overhead. I really enjoyed the life here, listening to the soft murmur of the stream and the whisper of wind through bamboo. Time seemed to slow down here.

小镇最具标志性的景观,莫过于那条蜿蜒流淌的河流。平静的水面如一面明镜,将天空与树木的倒影温柔地揽入怀中。河岸两旁矗立着参天古树,其中不少已有八百余年树龄,盘根错节的根须蜿蜒在石板路上,枝叶繁茂,织就一片片清凉的浓荫。在这里生活,我倍感宁静,耳畔萦绕着潺潺溪水与竹林间轻柔的风声,仿佛时光都慢了下来。

Yunshuiyao became well-known after it was featured in the Chinese romantic film “The Knot”. Scattered throughout Yunshuiyao are several well-preserved tulous, which have been home to generations of Hakka families. These earthen fortresses blend beautifully into the natural landscape, offering a sense of community, security, and tradition.

小镇因中国爱情电影《云水谣》的取景而名声远扬。云水谣田间点缀着几座保存完好的土楼,昔日是客家人世代安居的家园。土楼与周围的山水风光相映成趣,营造出浓厚的社区氛围、安宁的归属感与深厚的传统意蕴。

Huaiyuan Lou is the most well-preserved and architecturally representative tulou in Fujian Province. Built in 1905 during the late Qing Dynasty, it was constructed by the Jiang family, who were prosperous tea merchants and landowners. The name means ‘Cherishing Distant’ in Chinese. The structure is made with rammed earth walls, over 1 meter thick, supported by a wooden framework that has stood firm for over a century. There is only one heavily fortified gate connecting inside and outside.

怀远楼是福建省保存最完好、最具代表性的土楼。它建于清末民初的1905年,由富商兼地主蒋氏家族兴建,其名字意为“怀念远方”。楼体以夯土筑墙,厚逾一米,坚固的木构架支撑着整座建筑,百年风雨仍巍然屹立。楼内外仅开一扇坚固的大门供人们进出。

It has two concentric rings. The outer ring is four stories high, with 32 rooms per floor, housing sleeping quarters and storage. The timber beams, columns, and staircases are arranged in concentric rings to create tiers of rooms stacked three to five stories high. The upper structures are capped with tiled, slightly upturned eaves, supported by a web of timber rafters. Rainwater is efficiently drained into the inner courtyard. Wooden columns are joined by horizontal beams using traditional mortise-and-tenon techniques without nails.

它由两个同心圆环组成。外环高四层,每层设有32间房间,用作居舍和储藏室。木梁、木柱与楼梯环环相扣,形成三至五层高的层叠房间。上部结构铺以瓦片,屋檐微微翘起,由木椽稳稳支撑。雨水被巧妙地引入内院。木柱与横梁之间采用传统榫卯工艺,无需钉子即可紧密结合。

The inner ring is smaller and contains ancestral halls and communal spaces. Central to Hakka belief is the idea that deceased ancestors continue to watch over and protect their descendants. Showing respect through rituals ensures family prosperity and avoids misfortune. Ancestral hall with an altar, ancestral tablets, and painted couplets is the most important building. Wells, kitchens, and storerooms are placed in this area for communal use.

内环规模较小,内部设有祠堂与公共空间。客家人的信仰核心在于祖先会持续守护后代,当代人通过仪式对祖先表达敬意,以保家族兴旺、避祸免灾。祠堂是最为重要的建筑,内部设有祭坛、祖先牌位及对联。水井、厨房和储藏室亦位于此处,供居民日常使用。

This is the panoramic view. The central courtyard is paved with cobblestones, where daily life and communal events unfold. The interior reflects a highly organized lifestyle, with rooms assigned by generation and seniority. Decorative wooden carvings, ancestral tablets, and red lanterns enhance the cultural richness of the space.

这是庭院全景。中央庭院铺有鹅卵石,是日常生活和社区活动的场所。室内空间体现了高度有序的生活方式,房间按辈分和资历划分。装饰性的木雕、祖先牌位和红灯笼突现了这里的文化底蕴。

Unlike some older tulou, Huaiyuan Lou remains largely intact and still functions as a living residence. Residents still live in the building, maintaining traditional Hakka customs, such as ancestral worship, communal cooking, and shared farming. I was able to climb up the floors and see the local life. Outside wooden railings, freshly washed clothes are hung out to dry. Shirts, pants, and towels flap gently in the mountain breeze, swaying against the red backdrop of the wooden walls.

与一些年久失修的土楼不同,怀远楼几乎完好无损,如今仍作为民居使用。楼中的居民延续着传统客家习俗:祭祖、共炊、共耕,生活气息浓厚。我沿着几层楼梯缓缓而上,静静观察这里的日常。楼外的木栏杆上晾着刚洗净的衣物,衬衫、裤子和毛巾在山风中轻轻摆动,在红色木墙的映衬下,显得生动而富有韵律。

Along sunny spots, residents have laid out trays filled with vegetables like sliced radishes, chili peppers, and bamboo shoots to dry under the afternoon sun. The air is filled with a subtle mix of earthy, sun-baked scents. Homemade sausages or strips of cured meat are also strung up on wooden poles, slowly aging in the open air. It was really an interesting and unique trip to see the Hakka’s life that I have never experienced. The Hakka is a subgroup of the Han Chinese people with their own distinct language, culture, and traditions. They traced their roots to northern China, but over centuries, they migrated southward due to wars, famine, and social unrest. They settled mainly in southern provinces such as Guangdong, Fujian, and Jiangxi. Because they often arrived as migrants or newcomers, they were called “guest families” by local populations.

阳光充足的地方,居民们会将托盘摆放整齐,里面盛满了萝卜片、辣椒和竹笋等蔬菜,在午后的阳光下缓缓晾晒。空气中弥漫着泥土的芳香与阳光轻轻烘烤蔬菜的微妙气息。自制的香肠和腌肉条也被挂在木杆上,在露天中慢慢熟化。这次旅程既有趣又独特,让我得以深入了解客家人的生活,这是我此前从未体验过的。客家人是汉族的一个分支,拥有独特的语言、文化和传统。他们的祖源可追溯至中国北方,但几个世纪以来,由于战争、饥荒和社会动荡,他们不断南迁,最终主要定居在广东、福建和江西等南方省份。由于他们多为移民或新迁入的群体,当地人称他们为客居的人。

In the courtyard stands an ancient stone well, a silent witness to centuries of life unfolding within the earthen walls. The inside of well is surrounded by a simple stone curb, its surface now softened by a thick blanket of green moss. Tiny droplets of water glisten on the moss in the morning light. The well still provides clear and deep water to the local residents who lower a metal bucket on a rope, drawing water with a slow rhythm in the same way their ancestors did a hundred years ago.

庭院中央,矗立着一口古老的石井,静静守望着土墙内百年的光阴。井旁环绕着简朴的石栏,如今厚厚的绿色苔藓悄然覆盖其壁,表面柔和如绒。晨光洒下,细小的水珠在苔藓间闪烁微光。时至今日,这口井仍为村民提供清澈而深邃的水源。他们用绳索系着金属桶,缓缓汲水,仿佛与百年前的祖先在时间里默契相连。

I took two days to travel all the scenic areas. On the second day, I visited the Tianluokeng which is the most iconic and most photographed tulou sites. Located on a terraced hillside, the cluster is called the “Four Dishes and One Soup” because of its unique layout. One square tulou (the “soup”) sits in the middle. Surrounding it are four round tulous (the “four dishes”). There is a platform on the roadside for travelers to take photos.

我总共经历两天时间游遍了南靖土楼的所有景区。第二天,我参观了田螺坑景区,它是最具标志性、拍照最多的土楼群落。田螺坑土楼群坐落在梯田般的山坡上,因其独特的布局而被称为 “四菜一汤”。一座方形土楼(“汤”)坐落在中间,周围环绕着四座圆形土楼(“四菜”)。路边有一个平台,供游客拍照。

Afterwards, I went down the staircases and visited them one by one. Built between the 15th and 20th centuries, these tulous with similar thick rammed-earth walls showcase the Hakka people’s communal living as well but they are smaller than the Huaiyuan Lou I visited the last day.

之后我顺着楼梯走下,逐一参观。这些土楼建于15世纪至20世纪之间,同样有着厚实的夯土墙,展现了客家人的集体生活,但比我前一天参观的怀远楼要小一些。

This cluster sits in a valley, surrounded by layer upon layer of rice terraces that climb the slopes of the green mountains. From above, the terraces look like rippling steps carved into the hillside. Traditionally, these terraces were cultivated with rice as the staple crop, sustained by ingenious irrigation systems that channel mountain spring water down through the fields.

这片梯田隐匿在山谷之间,层层叠叠,如同青山绿水间自然铺开的画卷。俯瞰之下,梯田宛若山坡上轻轻荡开的涟漪,随山势起伏。这里传统上种植水稻,巧妙的灌溉系统将清澈的山泉引入田间,滋养着每一层梯田,使其生机盎然。

In Hakka and Fujian villages, it’s very common to see foods being sun-dried for preservation. These colorful trays containing food are set out in courtyards and rooftop around tulou walls. Most of these foods are corn kernels which are golden yellow, often filling the whole tray, soybeans dried for making tofu, sweet potatoes which are sliced into thin pieces to make dried snacks, and scented tea leaves.

在客家与福建的村落中,晒干食物以备保存是一种常见的习俗。五彩斑斓的托盘中盛满了各类食材,整齐地摆放在土楼的庭院和屋顶上。托盘里常见的有金黄饱满的玉米粒;用于制豆腐的大豆;切成薄片晾晒的红薯干;以及清香的茶叶。

In late winter, when the air is crisp and less humid, families hang long strings of sausages across bamboo poles, or on wooden racks in open courtyards. The sight of these dark red sausages glistening in the sunlight is a hallmark of traditional Hakka villages. The sausage is made by fresh pork. The meat is mixed with salt, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, and sometimes five-spice powder or peppercorns. The seasoned meat is stuffed into natural casings, then tied into uniform lengths. The sausages are hung outdoors to dry naturally for 1–2 weeks. Deeply savory with a balance of saltiness and gentle sweetness from rice wine and sugar.

冬末,空气清爽,湿气渐消,家家户户都会把长长的香肠串挂在竹竿上,或放在露天庭院的木架上。这些深红色的香肠在阳光下闪闪发光,是传统客家村落的一大特色。香肠采用新鲜猪肉制成,肉中混合盐、米酒、酱油、糖,有时还会加入五香粉或花椒。将调味好的肉馅塞入天然肠衣,然后捆成均匀的长度。香肠会被悬挂在户外自然风干1-2周。咸香浓郁,米酒和糖带来的柔和甜味恰到好处。

The central square tulou called Buyunlou is the oldest structure of the cluster, built first by the ancestor of the family. Later generations expanded around it with round tulou. The square form is structurally simpler and sturdier to build, especially in earlier times when techniques were less advanced. Once wealth and skills grew, round tulou became more common. The square tulou in the middle acted like a fortified core, with the outer round tulou forming an additional layer of protection. Together, the cluster functioned almost like a miniature walled city.

位于中心的方形土楼被称为步云楼,是整个土楼群中最古老的建筑,最初由家族祖先建造。后世在其周围扩建,建造了圆形土楼。方形土楼结构更简单,也更坚固,尤其是在技术欠发达的早期。随着财富和技艺的提升,圆形土楼变得更加普遍。中间的方形土楼如同坚固的核心,外围的圆形土楼则构成了额外的保护层。整个土楼群就像一座微型城墙环绕的城市。

In the afternoon, I took bus and continued the travel in the Taxia Village which is part of the Tianluokeng Scenic Area. It’s a well‑preserved example of Hakka culture and architecture. I enjoyed the scene of a “water town” combined with tulou architecture. When I walked among rural terrain, small bridges, cobblestones, I could see local everyday life.

下午,我乘车前往田螺坑风景区的塔下村。这里保存着完整的客家文化建筑。我欣赏着“水乡”与土楼建筑的融合。漫步在乡村的田园风光、小桥流水、鹅卵石铺就的路面上,感受着当地人的日常生活。

The houses are constructed from blue-gray bricks, which age into a weathered, darker tone over time. Roofs are made with traditional gray clay tiles, sometimes glazed in deeper tones for water resistance. They are rectangular and one to two stories tall. Most of them are built closely along the stone-paved lanes or beside the winding stream. From a distance, I felt that the rooftops formed a soft ripple across the valley, framed by green mountains.

这些房屋由蓝灰色的砖块砌成,岁月在砖面上留下斑驳的痕迹,使其愈发沉稳沧桑。屋顶覆以传统的灰色陶瓦,有时为了防水,还会施上一层深色釉面。房屋多为一至两层的长方形建筑,紧邻石板路或蜿蜒的小溪而立。远远望去,屋顶在山谷间宛如柔和的涟漪,群山翠绿环绕,景色静谧而悠远。

I visited one house compound belonging to Zhang Family. It has stone steps at door, small walled courtyards, and wooden window frames. It was built along the central stream, with bridges connecting them. Its layout includes gate, front hall, main sacrificial hall, with left-side and right-side chambers.

我参观了张家的一处古院。入口处铺着石阶,院内环绕着围墙,木框窗棂透着古朴气息。院落沿着中央的小溪而建,溪上有桥相连。整体布局井然,有大门、前殿和主祭殿,左右两侧则是对称的厢房。

This is used as the clan shrine of the Zhang family, used for ancestor worship, clan ceremonies, rituals, and as a symbol of the Zhang clan’s history and status in the village. Built in the late Ming dynasty, over 400 years old. The gate is decorated with vivid motifs, notably “two dragons playing with a pearl”, inlaid with colored ceramic chips. Roof ridges, eaves, and parapets are ornate, with porcelain reliefs or ceramic decorations depicting legends.

这是张氏家族的宗祠,用于祭祀祖先、举行宗族仪式,同时象征着张氏家族在村落中的历史与地位。建于明末,已有四百余年历史。门楼装饰精美,尤其以“二龙戏珠”的图案最为生动,并镶嵌着色彩斑斓的陶片。屋脊、屋檐及女儿墙装饰华丽,点缀着描绘传说故事的瓷浮雕与陶瓷装饰,尽显古朴与雅致。

One of the most striking features in front of the hall are the stone flagpoles rising from the stone slab near the pond. There are many of them and they are over 10 meters high. They are richly carved and serve as memorials to clan members who achieved official or civil/military ranks or otherwise made contributions. The latest family member carved on the pole is one student went overseas, studying in MIT.

堂前最引人注目的景观之一是从池塘边石板上拔地而起的石旗杆。这些石旗杆数量众多,高达十多米。旗杆上雕刻着精美的图案,用于纪念家族中功成名就、文武双全或做出贡献的成员。旗杆上雕刻的最新一位家庭成员是一位留学生,目前就读于麻省理工学院。

During my trip, I found that the Hakka people have a culture deeply shaped by migration, resilience, and unity. Though historically considered “guests” , they forged strong, close-knit communities wherever they settled. At the heart of Hakka culture lies a powerful sense of clan. This isn’t just about bloodline but it’s a living, breathing system of values, rituals, and responsibilities. In every generation, Hakka people honor their ancestors through ancestral halls. Family histories are remembered. Even those who’ve migrated abroad trace their roots back to the clan village.

在我的旅程中,我感受到客家文化深受迁徙历程、坚韧精神与团结力量的熏陶。尽管历史上他们被称为“客家人”,但在落脚之地,却建立了紧密而坚固的社群。客家文化的核心,是深厚的家族意识。这不仅关乎血缘,更是一套鲜活的价值观、仪式与责任体系。每一代客家人都通过祠堂祭祀祖先,铭记家族历史。即便是远赴海外的后裔,也会追溯宗族村落的根源,以此延续那份血脉与文化的联结。

As night fell over Yunshui Yao, the village transformed into a quiet world. Lanterns glowed softly along cobbled paths, and the sound of flowing water echoed through the ancient alleys. The tulous stood silently in the moonlight, their thick earthen walls holding centuries of Hakka stories. In that stillness, I felt the heart of Hakka culture. It was a life rooted in simplicity and connection, so different from the pace I’m used to. This cultural journey of slower rhythm was more about experiencing a way of life that’s rare for me.

夜幕降临云水谣,村落顿时变得静谧无声。鹅卵石小路上,灯笼柔和地闪烁,潺潺流水声在古老的巷道中回荡。一座座土楼静静地矗立在月光下,厚厚的土墙承载着百年的客家故事。在这份静谧中,我感受到了客家文化的精髓。这是一种根植于淳朴与亲情的生活,与我习以为常的生活节奏截然不同。这段慢节奏的文化之旅,更多的是体验一种对我来说弥足珍贵并且全新的生活方式。

An Immersive Journey Through Kulangsu’s Scenic Beauty

鼓浪屿的沉浸式旅行

Rising gently from the waves of Xiamen’s coast, Kulangsu is an island where sea breezes carry the echoes of pianos and the scent of frangipani drifts through winding stone lanes. It is a place where cultures once met across the ocean, leaving behind villas with red-tiled roofs, colonial consulates, and quiet courtyards shaded by banyan trees. It is celebrated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its rare tapestry of architecture and culture. From the European-inspired mansions of returning overseas Chinese to the fusion styles born of East and West, every building tells a story of global exchange in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

鼓浪屿依偎在厦门海岸的碧波之间,海风轻拂,钢琴声在空气中悠扬回荡,缅栀花的清香随蜿蜒的石巷飘散。这里曾是多元文化的交汇之地,留下了红瓦洋楼、殖民时期的领事馆,以及榕树掩映下的静谧庭院。凭借其独特的建筑群与深厚的文化底蕴,鼓浪屿被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。从归侨的欧式宅邸到中西合璧的风格,每一座建筑都在低声讲述着19世纪至20世纪初这座岛屿与全世界交流的历史。

Kulangsu island is always a romantic place for travelers to explore. On December 27th 2024, the morning ferry skimmed across the waters of Xiamen, carrying me toward Nei Cuoao Ferry Point, the gateway to Kulangsu. As the city skyline softened behind me, the island slowly revealed its red rooftops and leafy hills, bathed in the gentle light of dawn. The sea breeze grew cooler, carrying with it a sense of anticipation—of slower rhythms, hidden gardens, and the music-filled streets waiting just beyond the pier.

鼓浪屿自古便是旅行者心中的浪漫归处。2024年12月27日清晨,渡轮划过厦门的海面,载着我驶向这座岛屿的门户内厝澳渡轮码头。身后的城市天际线渐渐退去成一抹柔影,前方的岛屿却缓缓浮现:红瓦屋顶点缀在葱郁的山丘间,尽情沐浴在温柔的晨曦里。清凉的海风拂面,吹来一缕期许——那是对码头彼岸缓慢的生活节奏、隐秘的花园,以及充盈着音乐的街巷的些须期待。

After I arrived at the island in the morning, the first glimpse of it was the beach. Beach on Kulangsu is not the selling point of this island but it is still beautiful enough. It stretched like a pale ribbon along the edge of the island, its sand soft and fine beneath bare feet. The waves lap gently, leaving fleeting patterns of foam that glisten under the sun, while children’s laughter drifts across the breeze. Here the horizon was wide, the sea was calm, and the soft sand was a quiet comfort for travelers who came to rest by the water’s edge.

清晨抵达鼓浪屿,最先映入眼帘的便是一片沙滩。它或许不是这座岛屿最耀眼的名片,却自有一份恬静之美。沙滩宛若一条浅色的缎带,环绕在岛屿的边缘,细腻柔软的沙粒在脚下温润舒适。海浪轻轻拍打岸边,散落的泡沫在阳光中闪烁着微光,伴随着孩子们随风传来的笑声,勾勒出一幅温柔的画面。这里视野辽阔,海面宁静,柔软的沙滩为徜徉水边的旅人带来片刻安宁与慰藉。

Automobile is not allowed on this island, so the only option is to walk along the sea slowly. This long curling bridge built on the sea seems to dance with the sea breeze, their arches tracing elegant curves above the tides. From the railing, I watched the waves rushing in from the horizon and breaking against the rugged cliffs below. Each crash of white foam is a rhythm, echoing like nature’s drumbeat against the stone, while the bridges carry me forward as if floating between sky and sea. It is a place where footsteps slow, and the vast power of the ocean meets the quiet beauty of human design.

岛上禁止汽车通行,唯一的方式便是沿着海岸缓缓漫步。那条横跨海面的蜿蜒长桥,似乎随着海风轻舞,桥拱在潮汐之上勾勒出优雅的弧线。我伫立于栏杆旁,望着海浪自天际奔涌而来,拍击下方崎岖的悬崖。每一次白色浪花的炸裂,都是大自然的鼓点,敲击在岩石之上,而桥梁则承载着我的脚步,仿佛将我引向漂浮于海天之间的境界。在这里,步伐放缓,浩瀚的海洋与人类匠心的静美交织成一曲和谐的乐章。

Towering trees at the seaside rose like silent guardians of the island, their trunks weathered yet steadfast, their crowns heavy with shimmering green. Sunlight filtered through the leaves in shifting patterns, dappling the stone paths and courtyards below. When the sea breeze drifted inland, the branches swayed gently, whispering as if carrying stories of travelers long past. Looking up from below, the Sunlight Rock seems impossibly high, like a natural monument etched with shadows and light.

海边的参天大树静静矗立,如同守护岛屿的巨人。它的树干历经风霜,依旧坚韧挺拔;繁茂的树冠生机盎然,散发出深沉而浓烈的绿意。阳光穿透叶隙,在石板路与庭院间洒下斑驳的光影。海风轻拂,枝叶摇曳,仿佛在低声诉说远古旅人的故事。抬头仰望,日光岩巍然耸立,宛若一座由光与影雕琢而成的天然纪念碑。

My travel route is from the Nei Cuoao Wharf in the west to the Sunlight Rock in the south, then to the Haoyue Park in the east, finally to the residence area in the central part. Sunlight Rock, the highest point on Kulangsu Island offers travelers both a natural wonder and a historic landmark. Its rugged cliffs are composed of granite, weathered over centuries into jagged yet graceful forms. From below, it appears almost vertical and looks very impressive.

我的行程自西面的内厝澳码头启程,向南攀至日光岩,再东行至皓月园,最终抵达岛屿中央的居民区。日光岩是鼓浪屿的至高点,不仅是自然的杰作,更是历史的丰碑。它由花岗岩嶙峋堆叠而成,历经数百年风化,雕琢出峥嵘而秀美的姿态。从山脚仰望,其岩壁几近垂直,气势巍峨。

Near the summit of Sunlight Rock, the Sunlight Temple is a serene retreat that seems to float between sky and sea. Its crimson walls and green-tiled roofs stand in gentle contrast to the rugged granite cliffs, while the incense smoke drifting from its altars adds a fragrant softness to the salty sea breeze. It is one of Kulangsu’s oldest religious sites, with roots tracing back to the Ming and Qing dynasties.

日光寺位于日光岩顶峰附近,静谧幽远,仿佛悬浮于海天之间。深红的寺墙与碧绿的琉璃瓦,与嶙峋的花岗岩峭壁相映成趣;自祭坛缭绕而出的袅袅香烟,与咸润的海风交织,添上一缕清芬。作为鼓浪屿最古老的宗教圣地之一,它的渊源可追溯至明清时期。

Inside the courtyard, carefully carved wooden beams and delicate statues reflect traditional Chinese temple artistry. Potted plants and small trees are carefully arranged along the stone pathways. Fragrant flowers peek from ceramic pots, and miniature bonsai trees twist gracefully and elegantly in the gentle breeze in this tranquil courtyard.

庭院之中,木梁雕饰精美,神像玲珑雅致,尽显中国传统寺庙的艺术气韵。石径两侧,盆栽与小树错落有致,仿佛静候来客。陶罐里,馥郁的花朵探首而出,微型盆景随风轻摇,流露出一份静谧与雅趣。

The path to the summit winds through lush vegetation, shaded by tall palm trees and clusters of banyans, with small resting spots offering glimpses of the surrounding sea. The red roof-tops are one of the most distinctive features of Kulangsu’s landscape. In the late 19th centuries, many Chinese merchants and families who had lived in Southeast Asia or Europe returned to Kulangsu. They brought with them Western architectural styles, where red-tiled roofs were common. Red clay tiles were durable and well-suited to the island’s humid, coastal climate. They shed rain efficiently and resisted the salty sea breeze better than thatched or flat roofs.

通往山顶的小径蜿蜒穿过葱郁的植被,高耸的棕榈与成片的榕树交织掩映,沿途设有小憩之处,可远眺一望无际的海景。鼓浪屿最具代表性的风貌之一,便是点缀在绿意之间的红色屋顶。自19世纪末起,许多曾旅居东南亚或欧洲的华商与家族陆续归来,他们将西方建筑风格融入岛上的传统环境,使红瓦屋顶随处可见。由红粘土烧制的瓦片坚固耐久,极为适合潮湿的海岛气候,不仅能有效遮挡雨水,更能比茅草或平屋更好地抵御扑面的咸湿海风。

The rock is a commanding position, allowing visitors to gaze across the island and the surrounding sea. At the top, the sea breeze is strong and refreshing, and the panoramic view is really breathtaking. I could see clearly the undulating coastline of Xiamen, the sparkling waters surrounding Kulangsu, and the red-roofed villas dotted across the island all unfold beneath my feet. The sea of red rooftops is like a mosaic of history: a blend of Chinese tradition, overseas influence, and the island’s role as a hub of cultural exchange.

日光岩居高临下,俯瞰整座岛屿与四周蔚蓝的大海。登上山顶,海风清冽劲爽,眼前的全景令人屏息:厦门起伏的海岸线尽收眼底,鼓浪屿周围的海面波光粼粼,岛上星罗棋布的红顶别墅一一展现。这片红顶别墅群宛如一幅历史的马赛克画卷,将中国传统建筑、海外风格与岛屿作为文化交流枢纽的独特身份巧妙融合。

After going down from the top of Sunlight Rock, next I visited the Shuzhuang Garden which is one of the island’s most beautiful places. Here classical Chinese landscape design meets the island’s coastal beauty. It was built in 1913 by Lin Erjia, a wealthy overseas Chinese merchant, as a private seaside villa in memory of his father. This is the statue of the owner Lin Erjia.

从日光岩顶下来后,我接下来参观了菽庄花园,它是岛上最美的地方之一。这里融合了中国古典园林设计与岛上的海滨美景。它是由富豪华侨林尔嘉于1913年建造的一座私人海滨别墅,以纪念他的父亲。这张照片是别墅主人林尔嘉的雕像。

The garden is famed for its clever use of space, following the traditional Chinese principle of “借景” (borrowing scenery). Pavilions, winding corridors, and moon gates frame the shifting views of the sea, distant islands, and the garden’s own bridges and rockeries. Every turn seems to reveal a new scene—quiet ponds reflecting the sky, bamboo groves whispering in the wind, or stone steps leading down to the shore where waves gently lap against the rocks. It seamed that I was placed in a flowing Chinese landscape painting.

这座园林以巧妙的空间布局著称,完美体现了中国传统的“借景”理念。亭台楼阁、蜿蜒曲折的回廊与幽雅的月门,将海景、远方岛屿以及园内的小桥流水、假山巧妙串联。每一次转角,仿佛都会呈现新的画面——静谧的池塘映照着天空,竹林在微风中轻轻低语;沿着石阶走向岸边,海浪温柔地拍打着岩石,恍若置身一幅流动的山水画卷。

In this limited area, it includes many artificial hills, winding paths, and groves of bamboo and pine which reproduce the feeling of mountain landscapes within a compact space. Small waterfalls, rockeries, and ponds complete the miniature world of hills and streams, inviting visitors to wander as if in nature itself.

在这有限的空间里,错落有致的假山、蜿蜒曲折的小径、竹林松林,在紧凑的空间中重现了山峦叠嶂的景象。小瀑布、假山、池塘,构成了山水的微缩世界,让游客仿佛置身于大自然之中。

From within Shuzhuang Garden, slender stone bridges curve outward like graceful arms reaching toward the sea. Their paths are never straight; instead, they twist and turn in gentle zigzags, following the classical garden tradition of slowing one’s pace and revealing scenery step by step. Low railings frame the edges, allowing the sound of waves and the salty breeze to flow freely across the walkway like spirits.

从菽庄花园内眺望,纤细的石桥如同伸向大海的优雅手臂,缓缓蜿蜒而出。桥面并非笔直,而是曲折回环,恰似古典园林中“步步缓行,景致渐现”的意趣。低矮的栏杆轻轻环绕,任海浪的吟唱与咸风的拂面自由流淌在桥上,增添几分闲适与灵动。

As I crossed the bridge, the view shifted constantly. One moment was framed by a round moon gate, the next opening wide to the endless horizon. The bridges seemed to hover between two worlds: behind me, the calm rockeries, bamboo groves, and pavilions of the garden; ahead, the vast, untamed sea which tide was high, and waves surged and crashed beneath the arches.

走过桥,眼前的景色不断变幻:忽而是一道圆形月门,忽而又豁然开朗,直通无垠的地平线。栈桥仿佛悬浮在两个世界之间。身后是花园中静谧的假山、竹林与亭台楼阁;前方是浩瀚的大海,潮水涌动,波涛翻滚,在桥下奔腾不息。

Walking through Shuzhuang Garden, I felt as if I had stepped into a living painting that slowly revealed itself with every turn. The zigzagging bridges drew me closer to the sea, and when the horizon suddenly appeared through a moon gate, it felt like a surprise being revealed. Standing on a bridge where the garden meets the ocean with Sunlight Rock at the backdrop, I felt that all noise and worry seemed to dissolve into the rhythm of the sea, leaving only a quiet joy.

漫步于菽庄花园,仿佛步入一幅鲜活的画卷,随着每个转角的延展,画卷徐徐展开。蜿蜒的桥将我引向大海,当地平线透过月门突然显现,如同一份悄然揭开的惊喜。站在花园与海水交汇的桥上,以日光岩为背景,所有喧嚣与烦恼仿佛随波逐流,只留下静谧而纯粹的喜悦。

The Piano Museum near the Shuzhuang Garden is the first of its kind in China. Opened in 2000, the museum reflects the island’s reputation as the “Island of Music” and its deep-rooted love for piano culture. The museum is housed in elegant garden pavilions surrounded by flowers and plants.

菽庄花园附近的钢琴博物馆是中国首家钢琴博物馆。该博物馆于2000年开馆,体现了这座岛屿 “音乐之岛”的美誉以及当地民众对钢琴文化的深厚热爱。博物馆坐落在雅致的花园亭阁之中,周围环绕着鲜花绿植。

The hall displays more than a hundred pianos from around the world. Many of them are rare and antique instruments, some dating back centuries. Walking through the museum, I saw some famous pianos from the 18th century like Blüthner and Steinway & Sons. They are decorated with delicate carvings, and grand pianos once played in concert halls and noble salons. Each piece tells a story of craftsmanship, artistry, and the journey of music.

大厅里展出了来自世界各地的一百多架钢琴。其中许多都是稀有的古董乐器,有些甚至可以追溯到几个世纪以前。漫步博物馆,我看到了例如步吕特纳和施坦威等一些18世纪的著名钢琴。它们装饰着精美的雕刻,还有一些曾经在音乐厅和贵族沙龙中演奏的三角钢琴。每一架钢琴都向我讲述着各自的工艺、艺术和音乐之旅的故事。

In the afternoon, I walked along the seaside of Kulangsu which felt alive with energy. The sea sparkled under the sun, waves rolling gently toward the stone promenade. At the far end, Xiamen’s skyline gleamed in the distance. Walking further along the curve of the shore, the huge statue of Zheng Chenggong came into view, standing tall on the rocks above the sea. His gaze was fixed firmly toward the horizon. Beneath him, the waves crashed against the cliffs, as if echoing his determination.

午后,我漫步在鼓浪屿的海滨,感受着这里洋溢的生机与活力。阳光洒在海面上,波光粼粼,海浪轻柔地拍打着石板路。远处,厦门的天际线闪烁着迷人的光芒。沿着海岸线缓缓前行,郑成功的巨大雕像映入眼帘,矗立于海面之上的岩石之上。他的目光坚定而深邃,凝视着遥远的地平线。海浪拍打着岩石,在他身下激起阵阵回响,仿佛回应着这位民族英雄不屈的意志。

When I looked up at the statue, I imagined that he set sail from these shores in 1661, driving out the Dutch and reclaiming Taiwan, turning Xiamen into a stronghold of resistance and hope. I began to reminisce the history at the end of Ming Dynasty. Although fighting against Qing Dynasty all through his life, Zheng Chenggong gained high recognition from his enemy due to extraordinary loyalty and courage and after his death, the Kangxi Emperor of Qing praised him with the famous couplet:

“四镇多异心,两岛屯师,敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土,一隅抗志,方知海外有孤忠。”

The emperor’s words recognize Zheng as a singular figure of steadfast loyalty and daring, acting alone in defense of the Ming cause while much of the empire wavered. Zheng’s courage and strategic vision marked him as a “solitary loyalist” whose deeds would endure in history. Standing today on Kulangsu, gazing at his towering statue facing the sea, I felt the weight of his loyalty and the determination.

当我仰望这座雕像,脑海中浮现他于1661年从这片海岸起航的场景——驱逐荷兰人、收复台湾、将厦门化作抵抗与希望的据点。思绪随之回溯至明末岁月。郑成功一生与清廷为敌,却凭卓越的忠诚与勇气赢得敌方尊重。其逝世后,清康熙皇帝仍题下名联以示赞誉:“四镇多异心,两岛屯师,敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土,一隅抗志,方知海外有孤忠。”

康熙皇帝的挽联承认郑成功的忠义无畏、勇敢坚强。在明朝风雨飘摇、举国动荡之际,他独自肩负捍卫江山的重任。凭借非凡的勇气与卓越的战略眼光,郑成功被尊为“孤胆忠臣”,其丰功伟绩必将载入史册。今日,伫立于鼓浪屿,凝视他那面向大海、巍然矗立的雕像,我深切感受到了这位南明义士忠诚为国的分量与坚定抗清的决心。

From the shores of Kulangsu, the view across the water feels like looking into another world. Beyond the gentle rhythm of waves and the red-tiled roofs of the island, Xiamen rises in shimmering glass and steel. Sleek high-rises and soaring towers stretch toward the sky. The contrast is striking. On one side, it’s Kulangsu’s quiet gardens, winding lanes, and echoes of history; on the other, it’s the bold skyline of a modern metropolis. It made me feel as though past and present are meeting in a single frame.

从鼓浪屿的岸边眺望,对岸的景色仿佛属于另一个世界。轻柔的海浪拍打着岸边,岛上红瓦屋顶在阳光下温暖映衬,而厦门的玻璃与钢铁建筑在光影中拔地而起,现代高楼直冲云霄,光鲜亮丽。两者形成鲜明对比:一边是鼓浪屿静谧的花园、曲折的小巷和历史的回响;另一边是现代都市的雄伟天际线。此刻,我仿佛看到过去与现在在同一画面中交汇。

From the late 19th to early 20th century, luxurious villas and mansions in style like Mediterranean, Baroque, Rococo, and Art Deco were built on this island. Missionaries from Europe built churches, schools, and hospitals, adding Gothic spires, stained glass windows, and European-style chapels to the landscape. Meanwhile, traditional Chinese temples and gardens continued to flourish, preserving local spiritual and aesthetic traditions. Nowadays, Kulangsu retained most of its historic buildings. I wandered through the small lanes and wondered at the mixed cultures here.

19世纪末至20世纪初,岛上陆续兴建起兼具地中海、巴洛克、洛可可及装饰艺术风格的豪华别墅与庄园。来自欧洲的传教士则建造了教堂、学校与医院,为岛屿增添了哥特式尖顶、彩色玻璃窗以及精致的小教堂风貌。与此同时,中国传统的寺庙与园林依旧生机勃勃,承载着当地独特的精神与审美传统。如今,鼓浪屿大部分历史建筑依然完好保存。我漫步于曲径幽巷之间,仿佛置身于一座多元文化交融的时光画卷之中

‘Amoy Deco’ is the name given to a unique style that blossomed on this island during the early 20th century. It evolved as returning overseas Chinese merchants and students brought back Western influences, fusing them with Fujianese tradition. The name Amoy comes from the local Hokkien dialect pronunciation of Xiamen. Inspired by the global Art Deco movement, these buildings often feature streamlined facades, angular designs, and decorative motifs such as hexagonal patterns roof, symmetry, and zigzags. Unlike pure Western Art Deco, Amoy Deco integrates local craftsmanship, brick masonry techniques, and Chinese symbolic decorations. Wide verandas, open balconies, and shaded courtyards designed for ventilation in the humid subtropical climate.

“Amoy Deco”指的是20世纪初在这座岛屿上兴起的一种独特建筑风格。这一风格由归国的海外华商与留学生将西方艺术元素带回中国,并与福建本土传统相融合而发展而成。“Amoy”源自当地闽南语对“厦门”的发音。受全球Art Deco运动影响,这类建筑常呈流线型外墙、棱角分明,并装饰有六边形屋顶、对称布局以及锯齿形等图案。不同于纯粹的西方装饰艺术,Amoy Deco巧妙融合了本地工艺、砖砌技术及中国传统装饰元素。宽敞的走廊、开放式阳台与幽静庭院的设计,有效适应了潮湿亚热带气候下的通风需求。

Trinity Church

Constructed in 1934, the Trinity Church was built jointly by three Christian congregations to cater to the growing number of worshipers on the island. The church showcases architectural influences rooted in Western ecclesiastical design like brick walls accented by cross motifs, arched windows and a steeply pitched white roof. Its first Sunday service in the renewed sanctuary was held in 2019, marking its restored role as a house of worship for the island’s community.

这座三一教堂建于1934年,由三家基督教会联合兴建,旨在满足岛上日益增长的信徒需求。教堂的设计汲取了西方教会建筑的风格特色,砖墙上点缀着十字图案,拱形窗户高耸典雅,陡峭的白色屋顶更显庄重。2019年,翻新后的圣殿迎来了首场主日礼拜,宣告教堂重新成为岛上社区的精神图腾与礼拜中心。

Former British Consulate

The Former British Consulate is a distinguished example of colonial architecture that reflects the island’s rich international heritage. The building is constructed from ancient Minnan red bricks and granite. The structure showcases a veranda style, which was prevalent in port cities during the 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1843, Xiamen opened to foreign trade, and the British government established a consular office on Kulangsu. Today, it has been repurposed and serves as the Kulangsu Historical and Cultural Exhibition Hall. This transformation allows visitors to explore the island’s rich history and the architectural heritage of its colonial past.

前英国领事馆是殖民时期建筑的杰出典范,体现了鼓浪屿丰富的国际文化遗产。建筑以传统闽南红砖和花岗岩砌成,呈现19世纪至20世纪初港口城市盛行的廊架式风格。自1843年厦门开港通商以来,英国政府便在鼓浪屿设立了领事馆。如今,这座建筑经过改造,成为鼓浪屿历史文化展览馆,让游客得以深入探索岛上的历史风貌与殖民时期的建筑遗产。

Former Japanese Consulate

The Former Japanese Consulate stands as a testament to Kulangsu’s rich history as an international settlement. Constructed in 1879, it remains the only 19th-century embassy building still intact on the island. The building is primarily constructed using ancient Minnan red bricks and granite as well like most buildings in this island. The structure exhibits Victorian-style elements with a veranda-style layout, common in cities with open ports, and incorporates wood trusses, I-beams, and concrete slabs in its interior.

前日本领事馆见证了鼓浪屿作为国际殖民地的悠久历史。建于1879年,它是岛上唯一保存完好的19世纪使馆建筑。如同岛上其他建筑一样,整座建筑以古老的闽南红砖与花岗岩砌成,结构中融入了维多利亚风格的元素,采用港口城市常见的廊式布局;内部则巧妙结合了木桁架、工字梁与混凝土板,展现出独特的历史风貌。

This building does not allow visiting inside so I could only take some photos surrounding it. Its façade, adorned with arched windows and a distinctive red-brick exterior, stands in contrast to the surrounding European-style buildings. Its well-preserved structure offers me a glimpse into the architectural diversity that characterizes the island.

由于这栋建筑不对内部开放,我只能在周围拍几张照片。正面装饰着拱形窗户,外墙由独特的红砖砌成,在周围的欧式建筑群中格外醒目。它保存完好的结构,让我得以一瞥岛上建筑风格的丰富多样。

Huang Rongyuan Villa

In my opinion, the Huang Rongyuan Villa must be the most elegant and beautiful mansion in this island. The villa built in 1920 reflects a fusion of European classical style and Chinese aesthetics. Its massive granite columns and formal symmetry evoke Roman grandeur. Four giant Tuscan-style granite columns support a semi-circular portico. Rich ornamental details in column capitals, eaves, windows, balconies, and a rooftop adorned with grapevine motifs and balustrades really attract my eyes.

在我眼中,黄荣远别墅无疑是这座岛上最优雅、最迷人的宅邸。建于1920年的它,将欧洲古典风格与中国美学完美融合。巨大的花岗岩柱与对称布局,让人联想到古罗马的宏伟气势。四根雄伟的托斯卡纳风格花岗岩柱支撑着半圆形门廊,而柱头、屋檐、窗户、阳台以及装饰着葡萄藤图案与精美栏杆的屋顶,其繁复细致的装饰着实吸引了我的眼球。

The villa stands within a lush courtyard, over 3,000 m² in size. In the courtyard, the garden is an exquisite fusion of Chinese and Western elements. One highlight is the use of traditional Chinese garden elements like Taihu rocks, winding paths, a pavilion, and a cloud-style rock wall. In contrast, the geometry and symmetry reflect Western villa gardens especially decorated with curved porch and grand Ionic columns. Now, it is home to the China Record Museum, preserving both architecture and musical heritage.

别墅坐落于郁郁葱葱的庭院之中,占地逾3000平方米。庭院花园巧妙地融汇中西风格:一方面,太湖石、蜿蜒小径、雅致凉亭与云纹岩墙彰显中国传统园林的韵味;另一方面,别墅本身的几何造型与对称布局,配以弧形门廊和宏伟的爱奥尼式柱子,又散发出典型西方别墅花园的气度。如今,别墅内还设有中国唱片博物馆,珍藏着丰富的建筑与音乐遗产。

Fanpo Mansion

This Fanpo Mansion is celebrated for its rare blend of Chinese craftsmanship and European Rococo style. The gatehouse is particularly notable. It’s the tallest and largest on the island. Rococo influences surface in flourishes of curving lines and decorative sculptures. The gatehouse is crowned with a sculpture of two golden birds holding copper coins, symbolizing wealth and good fortune. The mansion was built in 1927 by a prosperous Chinese-Filipino entrepreneur, in honor of his mother, known as ‘Fan Po’. The exterior is composed of richly hued red bricks contrasted with white trims. The ground floor features a two-story red-brick cloister with graceful arches forming a shaded walkway. A set of elegant stairs ascends to the main entrance.

番婆楼以其罕见的中西工艺融合而闻名,将中国传统元素与欧洲洛可可风格巧妙结合。其门楼尤为引人瞩目,是岛上最高、最宏伟的门楼。洛可可风格的影响在门楼的曲线线条与精美雕塑中展露无遗。门楼顶部雕刻着两只衔铜钱的金鸟,象征财富与吉祥。这座府邸建于1927年,由一位富有的菲律宾华裔企业家建造,以纪念他被尊称为 “番婆”的母亲。外墙以色彩丰富的红砖砌成,辅以白色装饰,形成鲜明对比。一楼设有两层红砖回廊,优美的拱门连成绿荫步道。沿着典雅的楼梯拾级而上,即可通达正门。

There are still some local residents in this island. I could even go to the second floor of the new residential house taking some photos. Life on Kulangsu may unfold under the gaze of countless tourists, but for its local residents, the rhythm is gentler, rooted in routines that have little to do with sightseeing. At dusk, when most tourists have left, the island grows peaceful. Residents stroll along the seaside promenade, and children chase each other under the glow of streetlamps.

岛上仍住着一些本地居民。我甚至可以上到新建居民楼的二楼,拍下几张静谧的生活瞬间。鼓浪屿的日常,在游客的目光下缓缓展开,而对居民而言,却是另一种从容,根植于与观光无关的平凡生活。黄昏时分,当游客渐渐散去,岛上恢复了宁静。居民沿着海滨长廊缓步而行,孩子们在路灯下追逐嬉戏,脚步声与海风一同流淌在暮色中。

Chuncao Tang

Travel in this small island is tiring since I needed to continue walking up and down without rest. Chuncao Tang is situated on the cliff of Pen Holder Hill, offering expansive views of the surrounding landscape. Built in 1933, Chuncao Tang was designed by Xu Chuncao, the president of the Xiamen Construction Association. The villa resembles a Western-style nursing house. Its structure utilizes granite for the wall base, wall pillars, and corridor column. The villa includes a wide corridor outside the living room, providing a space for viewing and cooling off, enhancing the living experience with panoramic views of the surrounding area.

这座小岛上旅行格外疲惫,因为我需要不断地上下攀爬,中途也不得不停下来休息。春草堂座落于笔架山的悬崖之上,视野开阔,能够尽览周围景致。建于1933年的春草堂,由厦门市建筑协会会长许春草设计,别墅仿照西式养老院建造,墙基、墙柱与廊柱皆采用花岗岩。别墅客厅外设有宽敞的走廊,既可观景,又可乘凉,将周围的风光尽收眼底,极大提升了居住的舒适体验。

HSBC Bank Mansion

One of the most amazing buildings on this island must be the HSBC Bank Mansion. It is a three-leaf clover shaped English style villa, completed in 1876, and distinguished by its placement atop the cliff of Pen Holder Hill. I looked up at the high and straight cliff. This building sits solidly on a granite foundation anchored into the cliff’s rock. The mansion’s cliff-top location was purposefully chosen to offer sweeping sea views during both day and night. A colonnaded cloister runs alongside, opening to sea breezes and panoramic views of Xiamen’s Twin Towers and the iconic Bagua Mansion.

岛上最令人叹为观止的建筑之一,非汇丰银行公馆莫属。这座建于1876年的英式三叶草形状的别墅,因矗立于笔架山悬崖之上而闻名。我仰望着笔架山高耸的悬崖,只见公馆稳稳地坐落在嵌入岩石的花岗岩基座上。选址于悬崖之巅,是为了让人无论白天还是夜晚,都能尽览壮阔海景。旁侧,带有柱廊的回廊在海风吹拂下轻轻摇曳,厦门双子塔与标志性的八卦楼尽收眼底。

Bagua Mansion

Before the sun set, the Bagua Mansion revealed itself like a beacon among Kulangsu’s green hills and tiled rooftops. Its bright red dome, rounded and regal, rose above the treetops, immediately catching my eyes. Against the soft sky and glittering sea, the dome shone with a warm glow in the winter chill, resting like a crown on the island’s outline. This distinct profile makes the mansion one of the most recognizable landmarks of Kulangsu. Founded in 1907, the Bagua Mansion was commissioned by Taiwanese businessman. Nowadays, the refurbished mansion became the Organ Museum, housing Chinese most notable collections of pipe organs.

日落前,八卦楼宛如一座灯塔,矗立在鼓浪屿青山绿水与瓦片屋顶之间。那鲜红的穹顶圆润而庄重,耸立于树梢之上,瞬间捕获了我的目光。在柔和的天空与波光粼粼的海面映衬下,穹顶在冬日寒意中散发出温暖光芒,如同一顶皇冠,点缀着岛屿的轮廓。独特的造型让八卦楼成为鼓浪屿最易辨识的地标之一。八卦楼始建于1907年,由一位台湾商人委托建造,如今经过翻新,已成为管风琴博物馆,馆内收藏着中国最著名的管风琴藏品。

After eight hours of exploring this island on foot, my legs were utterly exhausted. Sauntering through the winding lanes was like stepping into a living museum, where each street and building tells a story of hybrid cultures and architectural fusion. Though time constraints meant I missed many remarkable structures, the glimpses I caught and these intricate details blending East and West made every step worthwhile. This UNESCO site is not just a place to see but a place to feel, where history and artistry coexist in the most vivid way.

徒步探索这座岛屿八小时后,我的双腿早已疲惫不堪。漫步于蜿蜒的小巷中,仿佛走进一座鲜活的博物馆。每条街道、每栋建筑都娓娓诉说着多元文化与建筑风格交融的故事。虽因时间有限错过了许多令人叹为观止的建筑,但那些短暂的瞥见,以及东西方交汇处的精致细节,让我此次旅行的每一步都充满价值。这座联合国教科文组织世界遗产,不仅值得观赏,更值得用心感受;历史与艺术在这里以最生动的方式交融共存。

Beneath the Blue Horizon: Xiamen’s Sea-Kissed Trip

蓝色地平线下的厦门:一场海与心的旅行

Xiamen was my last stop in the Christmas trip 2024. It a beautiful city where the sea whispers to the shore draped in sunlight and sea breeze. Here, waves kiss the white sands of Huandao Road, and Kulangsu’s winding alleys hum with stories of a bygone era. Palm trees sway over seaside cafés, and each sunset spills gold into the harbor. Between the scent of salt in the air and the melody of the tides, Xiamen invites me to slow my pace, breathe deeply, and let the ocean’s rhythm guide me finish the whole journey.

厦门,是我2024年圣诞旅途的最后一站。这座海滨之城,阳光与海风温柔相拥。环岛路的白沙滩上,浪花如丝绸般抚过足迹;鼓浪屿的蜿蜒小巷间,则回荡着旧时光的低语。海边的咖啡馆里,棕榈树在微风中摇曳,夕阳的余晖染金了整片港湾。空气里弥漫着咸润的气息,潮汐谱写着舒缓的旋律。厦门,仿佛以海洋的脉动,邀请我放慢脚步,深深呼吸,让旅程在宁静与诗意中缓缓落幕。

When I just arrived, I found that Xiamen and Singapore share quite a few similarities, especially from a travel and lifestyle perspective. Both are island-based cities connected to the mainland by bridges. Surrounded by the sea, they have a strong maritime character and a history shaped by trade. Xiamen’s Kulangsu Island and old neighborhoods reflect a fusion of Chinese, Western, and Southeast Asian styles. Singapore also blends Chinese, Malay, Indian, and colonial heritage into its urban fabric.

初到厦门时,我惊喜地发现,这座城市尤其是在旅行体验与生活方式上与新加坡有着许多相似之处。两者皆是海岛城市,通过桥梁与大陆相连,四面环海,浸润着浓厚的海洋气息与因贸易而兴盛的历史。厦门的鼓浪屿与老街区展现出中西文化与东南亚风情的交融,而新加坡的城市肌理则汇聚了华人、马来人、印度人以及殖民时期遗留下来的多元文化遗产。

Xiamen’s story is written by the sea. Once a small fishing settlement, it rose to prominence in the 17th century as a key port for maritime trade along China’s southeastern coast. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, its deep-water harbor made it a gateway for merchants, tea exports, and cultural exchange. In the 19th century, Xiamen became one of China’s earliest treaty ports, opening to foreign trade after the signing of Treaty of Nanjing in the First Opium War. Nowadays, it is very modern city. The beautiful skyline rises beside palm-lined boulevards, and large ships share the horizon with ferries bound for nearby islands. Both mark a new chapter of this garden city on sea.

厦门的故事始于大海。最初,它只是东南沿海的一座小渔村,却在十七世纪间逐渐崛起,成为海上贸易的重要港口。明清时期,深水良港让这里汇聚四方商贾,茶叶自此远销海外,也孕育了多元的文化交流。十九世纪,随着《南京条约》的签订,厦门成为中国最早开放的通商口岸之一,见证了风云变幻的近代史。如今的厦门早已焕然一新:现代化的天际线在棕榈掩映的林荫大道旁傲然耸立,巨轮与渡船同绘海面,共同书写这座海上花园城市的新篇章。

In the 17th century, long before Xiamen became a modern port city, it was the stronghold of Zheng Chenggong, the Ming loyalist who resisted the Manchu conquest. Xiamen’s natural harbor and island setting made it a perfect marine base. From here, Zheng built a powerful naval force, controlling trade and defending the coast. In 1661, it was from Xiamen’s shores that his fleet set sail across the Taiwan Strait, launching the campaign that expelled the Dutch from Taiwan and established Chinese rule there.

早在17世纪,厦门还未成为现代化港口之前,这片海岛便是明朝名将忠臣郑成功的重要据点。他凭借这里的天然良港与险要地势,构筑起坚固的海上要塞,用以抵御清军的进犯。依托厦门的优越条件,郑成功组建起一支强大的海军,不仅掌控海上贸易,还守护着沿海疆土。1661年,他率领庞大的舰队自厦门启航,横渡台湾海峡,发起了驱逐荷兰殖民者的战役,最终在台湾确立了中国的统治。

Today, the central district of this city called ‘Siming’ recall Zheng Chenggong’s presence. He renamed the island’s name to “Siming”. The name, meaning “remembering the Ming Dynasty” reflected his loyalty to the fallen Ming dynasty and his opposition to the Qing conquerors. Standing by the water and staring at the powerful warships faraway, it’s easy for me to imagine the sails of his fleet catching the wind and fighting in the waves.

如今,城市的中心——思明区,依旧承载着人们对郑成功当年的记忆。他曾将这座岛屿易名 ‘思明’,寓意缅怀故国,寄托着对覆灭的明朝的忠贞与对清军入侵的抗争之志。伫立水边,远眺海上战舰的雄姿,仿佛眼前便浮现出他率领舰队劈波斩浪、扬帆远航的壮阔场景。

My trip started from the seaside promenade which stretched like a silver ribbon along the sea, with palm trees swaying gently above the turquoise waves. The salty breeze brushed against my face, carrying the faint scent of the ocean and the sound of gulls overhead. Each step felt lighter, as if the rhythm of the waves was syncing with my heartbeat.

我的旅程自海滨长廊启程。它宛如一缕银色丝带,沿着无际的海面舒展延伸。两侧的棕榈随碧波轻轻摇曳,仿佛在为海浪伴舞。微咸的海风拂面而来,带着淡淡的海洋气息,间或掺杂几声悠远的海鸥鸣叫。海边漫步步履间格外轻盈,似乎浪涛的律动正与我的心跳相互呼应。

The horizon seemed endless, and the air felt so fresh that every breath is a quiet celebration: cool, clean, and alive. Walking here, the bustle of the city slipped away, replaced by the soft music of the tide interwined with the simple joy of being by the sea. With each step along seaside promenade, the weight of the year’s work begins to loosen, like sand slipping through my fingers. Sunlight danced on the water, and I felt as though the tide is quietly washing my mind clean. By the time I reached the curve of the bay, the fatigue of whole year has dissolved into the horizon, leaving only a lightness.

地平线无边无际,空气澄澈清新,每一次呼吸都仿佛是一场静谧的庆典:清凉、纯净,饱含生机。漫步于此,城市的喧嚣渐渐褪去,只余下如潮水般轻柔的乐音,与海畔独有的惬意相互交织。沿着海滨长廊缓步而行,仿佛每一步都卸下了一分尘世的负担,犹如细沙从指间静静滑落。阳光在水面上闪烁起舞,潮汐轻声呢喃,似在为我拂去纷杂思绪。待我走到海湾的转角处,一年的疲惫早已消散在天际,只余心境澄明、轻盈自在。

Although it was December, the temperature on noon could reach 23 Celsius. I walked on the wide, sun-warmed sand of Huangcuo Beach and touched the coldness of sea water with my bare feet. The wave hit me like soft applause, greeting me with their gentle rhythm, as if reminding me to slow down. Out on the horizon, the sky melted into the sea. I let the breeze wrap around me, cool and salt sweet.

虽已至十二月,正午的气温却依然攀升到二十三度。黄厝的沙滩开阔而明亮,我赤脚行走在其上,脚尖触碰到海水时,清凉之意瞬间涌上心头。浪花轻柔拍来,如同一阵阵温婉的掌声,拍打着节奏,仿佛在提醒我放慢脚步。远方的天与海在地平线上交融,浑然无际。微风裹挟着一丝凉意与淡淡的咸甜,将我轻轻拥抱。

Huangcuo Beach is more than just a stretch of golden sand—it’s a stage for quiet romance. At sunset, the sky blushes over the sea, and the soft hiss of the waves becomes a gentle backdrop for whispered promises. Here, couples stroll hand in hand, leaving footprints side by side, some pausing to write Marry me in the sand or to embrace beneath a sky turning gold and rose. The openness of the sea seems to bless each moment, carrying it far beyond the horizon.

黄厝海滩不仅是一片金色的沙岸,更是一方静谧而浪漫的舞台。暮色降临,霞光轻洒在海面上,柔和的浪声宛如低语的伴奏。情侣们携手而行,在细沙上留下并肩的足迹;或在沙滩上写下 “嫁给我”的誓言,或在金与玫瑰色交织的天空下深情相拥。辽阔的大海仿佛化作见证与祝福,将每一个温柔的瞬间托付给无尽的地平线。

The main seaside promenade in Xiamen is along Huandao Road, which circles much of Xiamen Island’s coastline. I walked along the section that was most popular with walkers and cyclists. The section in the south of island, stretching from Xiamen University through Hulishan to Xiang’an Bridge is about 20 km long. The most iconic building on the way must be the Xiamen Twin Towers. Their glass façades curving like giant sails catching the sea breeze. This skyline creates a striking contrast. The calm rhythm of waves in the foreground, and the confident silhouette of a modern city just beyond. Walking here, I felt Xiamen’s unique blend of ‘la isla bonita’ and a metropolis.

厦门最著名的海滨长廊坐落于环岛路,几乎环绕了整个厦门岛的海岸线。我沿着最受步行者和骑行者青睐的路段缓缓前行。环岛路的南段,从厦门大学经胡里山延伸至翔安大桥,全长约二十公里。途中最引人注目的当属厦门双子塔,其玻璃幕墙宛如巨大的船帆在海风中轻轻起伏,勾勒出一条优美的曲线。天际线在双子塔的映衬下更显生动,前方是平静的海浪拍打节奏,远处则是现代化城市的自信轮廓。漫步其间,我深深感受到厦门独有的魅力。这是一座“美丽小岛” 与繁华都市的完美融合。

There are not so many historical buildings in Xiamen. Hulishan Fort is one living reminder of the city’s history. It was on the seaside promenade. Built in 1894 during the Qing Dynasty, the fort was designed to guard against foreign naval threats and overlooks the Taiwan Strait from a commanding seaside cliff. Its thick granite and red-brick walls enclose military tunnels and a watchtower. They are still intact and high although eroded by wind and rains of hundred years.

厦门的历史建筑不算多,但胡里山炮台却是这座城市历史的鲜活见证。它坐落于海滨长廊上,为了防御外国海军的威胁始建于清朝光绪二十年(1894年)。炮台俯瞰台湾海峡,依托一处高耸的海边悬崖而建。厚实的花岗岩与红砖筑成的城墙环绕着军事隧道与瞭望塔,历经风雨仍显雄伟。

The main attraction is the world’s largest surviving 19th-century coastal cannon, a German-made Krupp cannon stretching over 13 meters long. Its dark iron barrel stretches toward the Taiwan Strait, a silent giant that once promised both power and protection. Standing before it, I could feel the tension of history, the urgency of Qing dynasty arming itself against foreign fleets. Krupp was a leading German industrial and steel company in the 19th–20th century, renowned for heavy artillery. Qing Dynasty purchased many cannons from this company in the history.

最引人注目的是世界上现存最大的19世纪海岸炮:一门德国制造的克虏伯巨炮,长达十三米有余,漆黑的铁身宛如沉默的巨人,静静伸向台湾海峡,曾象征着力量与守护。站在它面前,我仿佛能触碰到历史的张力,感受到清朝武装自卫、抵御外国舰队的紧迫感。克虏伯公司是19至20世纪德国领先的钢铁与工业巨擘,以重型火炮闻名于世。历史上,清朝曾从这家公司采购过大量大炮。

Another site marking the history of Xiamen is Zengcuoan. Once a quiet fishing village, it is now Xiamen’s lively “sea-side snack town,” where every narrow lane is scented with something tempting. Under strings of warm lights, stalls sizzle with local flavors. Vendors call out cheerfully, offering skewers of grilled squid, cups of mango shaved ice, and steaming bowls of satay noodles. In Zengcuoan, eating is the heart of the experience, a delicious stroll through Xiamen’s coastal soul.

曾厝垵是另一个见证厦门历史的景点。它曾是一个宁静的渔村,如今已成为厦门热闹的 “海滨小吃城”,每条小巷都弥漫着诱人的香味。在温暖的阳光下,摊位上摆满了当地风味小吃。小贩们兴高采烈地叫卖着烤鱿鱼串、芒果刨冰和热气腾腾的沙爹面。在曾厝垵,美食是体验旅游的核心,是一次探索厦门海滨灵魂的漫步。

There are many snacks here, but few delights could be compared to biting into a steaming crab roe soup bao. The thin, delicate wrapper trembles as I lifted it from the bamboo steamer. With one careful sip, the rich broth bursts forth. The taste is sweet and briny, infused with the essence of fresh crab and a hint of ginger. Then comes the filling itself and leaves a lingering savoriness that feels both indulgent and comforting. With a dash of vinegar and a hint of ginger, the flavor feels lighter and less greasy.

这里的小吃琳琅满目,但少有能比得上咬上一口热气腾腾的蟹黄汤包带来的满足感。我轻轻从竹蒸笼里取出一个,薄薄的包皮微微颤动。轻轻一抿,浓郁咸香的汤汁便溢满口腔,蟹的鲜香与姜的清爽巧妙融合。紧随其后的馅料香味回味悠长,令人难以忘怀。再蘸上一点醋与姜丝,清爽中带着微微酸香,既鲜美又不腻。

In the afternoon, after I finished the stroll along the seaside promenade, I visited the South Putuo Temple which is one of the most celebrated Buddhist temples in Fujian Province, located at the southern foot of Wulao Peak. With its back to the mountains and facing the sea, the temple enjoys a harmonious natural setting that has made it both a spiritual sanctuary and a major cultural landmark.

下午,漫步完海滨长廊后,我前往位于五老峰南麓的南普陀寺,它是福建省著名的佛教寺庙之一。寺院背山面海,自然环境和谐,既是精神圣地,也是重要的文化地标。

The temple’s history dates back to the Tang dynasty, but it gained its present name during the Ming dynasty, when it became associated with Guanyin (the Bodhisattva of Compassion). Since then, South Putuo temple has been regarded as the southern counterpart of Putuo mountain, one of the four sacred Buddhist mountains of China. The temple complex covers a large area and is built in a traditional symmetrical layout, with halls aligned along the central axis.

南普陀寺的历史可追溯至唐代,而“南普陀” 这一名称则始于明代,缘于对观世音菩萨(大悲菩萨)的虔诚信仰。自此,寺庙便被视为中国四大佛教名山之一——普陀山的南端圣地。南普陀寺占地广阔,建筑布局沿袭传统对称格局,殿堂沿中轴线依次排列。

This is the entrance hall, Heavenly King Hall guarded by the Four Heavenly Kings and Maitreya Buddha. Because South Putuo is one of the most important Buddhist temples in southern China, people believe that incense offerings here carry special merit and spiritual power. I came here to burn incense on the last day of the year, seeking blessings for the upcoming New Year. Lanterns swayed gently in the breeze. The air was thick with the fragrance of sandalwood incense, mingling with the faint sound of chanting monks inside the grand halls.

眼前是入口大殿——天王殿,由四大天王与弥勒佛守护。南普陀作为中国南方最重要的佛教圣地之一,人们相信在这里焚香能积累殊胜功德。我在年末来到此地,虔心焚香,为即将到来的新年祈福。微风轻拂,红色灯笼轻轻摇曳,空气中弥漫着浓郁的檀香气息,与大殿内僧侣悠扬的诵经声交织回荡。

In the temple, there is a canteen selling local food. I ordered one bowl of Shacha noodles, one of the most iconic street foods of Xiamen. At first glance, the dish looks simple: yellow wheat noodles served in a steaming bowl of broth. But the soul of Shacha noodles lies in the shacha sauce — a deep, rich paste made from soybean oil, garlic, shallots, chilies, and especially dried seafood like shrimp. This sauce, with its smoky, slightly spicy, umami-packed taste, gives the dish its unforgettable character. The sip of broth is savory and aromatic, carrying the warmth of spices and the depth of seafood.

庙里有一家小小的食堂,专门售卖当地街头美食。我点了一碗沙茶面。这可是厦门最具代表性的特色小吃之一。乍看之下,它似乎简单:一碗热气腾腾的汤头中铺着金黄的小麦面条。然而,沙茶面的灵魂在于那一勺沙茶酱。酱料由大豆油、大蒜、红葱头、辣椒,以及虾等精心调制的海鲜干货熬制而成,浓郁醇厚,带着淡淡烟熏味和辛辣余韵,又鲜美异常,为整碗面注入独特的风味。舀一口汤底,香气扑鼻,鲜味浓郁,香料的温暖与海鲜的鲜美交织在舌尖上。

Jimei School Village, located on the northern side of Xiamen Island is a landmark of education, culture, and history founded by the famous overseas Chinese philanthropist Tan Kah Kee in the early 20th century. He established Jimei Primary School first, and over the years expanded it into a full educational complex that included middle schools, vocational schools, and eventually colleges. Today, it has grown into a network of institutions with a reputation that extends across China and overseas.

集美学村坐落于厦门岛北侧,由著名华侨慈善家陈嘉庚先生于20世纪初创立,是一处兼具教育、文化与历史价值的地标。陈嘉庚先生最初创办集美小学,随后不断拓展,将其发展成为涵盖中学、职业教育及大学的完整教育体系。如今,集美学村已成长为享誉海内外的学府,成为承载文化底蕴与学术精神的重要象征。

The campus architecture is one of its most striking features. Buildings here combine magnificent Western-style structures with traditional Southern Fujian architectural elements with red brick walls, swallowtail eaves, decorative tiles, and stone carvings. This unique blend creates a setting that is both scholarly and culturally distinctive, often described as “the Tan Kah Kee style.” I was sitting beside a large, scenic pool where dragon boat races are held during traditional festivals and enjoyed the tranquil environment which brought me back to the memory of my university life.

校园建筑是这里最引人注目的特色之一。西式建筑的宏伟气派与闽南传统元素的精巧雅致在此交融,红砖墙、燕尾檐、装饰瓷砖与石雕相映成趣。这种独特的融合营造出既饱含学术气息,又深蕴文化底蕴的环境,被人们称为 “陈嘉庚风格”。我坐在风景如画的人工湖旁,每逢传统节日,池上还会上演热闹的龙舟赛。静静凝望周围的景致,不由得涌上心头的是对大学时光的回忆。

A museum and a park are dedicated to Tan Kah Kee’s life and contributions, filled with historical documents, photographs, and personal belongings. Tan Kah Kee was a legendary overseas Chinese entrepreneur and educator. Born in Jimei, he migrated to Singapore as a teenager to help with his father’s business. Believing education was the foundation of national strength, he established Xiamen University, the first university in China founded entirely by overseas Chinese funds. He played a decisive role in founding Nanyang University, the first Chinese-language university outside of China, which later became part of Nanyang Technological University.

这里设有博物馆和公园,以纪念陈嘉庚的一生及其卓越贡献。馆内收藏了丰富的历史文献、珍贵照片和个人物品,再现了这位传奇海外华人企业家与教育家的生平。陈嘉庚出生于集美,少年时期随父移居新加坡,协助家族经商。他坚信教育是国家的根本,创办了首所完全由海外华人出资兴办的大学厦门大学。在创办新加坡的南洋大学的过程中,他也发挥了关键作用。该校是中国境外首所中文大学,后发展成为南洋理工大学的重要前身。

The turtle Garden includes garden and cemetery where Tan Kah Kee himself is buried, facing the sea. It is filled with stone carvings and sculptures that narrate episodes of history and culture. Now people still memorize how he poured his fortune into education for the Chinese community both at home and abroad after visiting this place.

这座鳌园集花园与墓园于一体,陈嘉庚先生长眠于此,面朝浩瀚大海。园中遍布精美的石雕与雕塑,每一处都讲述着历史的篇章与文化的故事。今日,游人漫步其间,仍能感怀先生将一生财富倾注于海内外华人教育的无私奉献。

The Nanyang-style architectures here left me a deep impression. It combines red brick and swallowtail roof ridges of Minnan houses with arched windows, colonnades, and verandas from Western colonial architecture. Roman columns, and Gothic-style arches are used as well, creating a cultural mix. When I visited Xiamen, I always felt that I seemed to visit Singapore. These school buildings and their styles reminded strongly of The Chinese High School in Singapore. There’s a real sense of déjà vu.

这里的南洋建筑风格给我留下了深刻的印象。它巧妙地融合了闽南民居的红砖燕尾脊与西方殖民时期建筑的拱形窗、柱廊和阳台,甚至融入了罗马柱与哥特式拱门,营造出一种独特的文化交融氛围。每次踏足厦门,我总有置身新加坡的错觉。这些校舍的风格,与新加坡华侨中学的建筑有着奇妙的呼应,让人心生似曾相识的温暖感。

Outside of the Jimei school village, it is the Ten Miles Long Causeway which is one of the most romantic places in Xiamen as the sun dips low over the horizon. It connects the island to mainland China. High speed train and metro tram pass over the bridges over the long causeway. I arrived at this place nearly at 6 pm and this was my last travel destination in this city.

集美学村之外,是十里长堤。夕阳西下之时,这里成为厦门最浪漫的去处之一。长堤上一道道桥梁,连接着厦门岛与大陆,高铁与地铁在其上疾驰而过。我抵达此地时,大约是傍晚六点,这也是我在这座城市的最后一站。

Stretching gracefully between the sea and the sky, the causeway was bathed in golden light, its stone path glowing softly under the warmth of dusk. On one side, the water shimmered with the reflection of the fading sun, rippling like liquid fire; on the other, the distant skyline slowly melted into silhouettes against the pastel sky. Couples strolled hand in hand along the path, and the evening breeze carried the scent of the ocean and the gentle waves lapped against the shore. As twilight deepened, the sky turned to orange, painting a canvas that seems endless above the causeway.

十里长堤优雅地延伸于海天之间,沐浴在金色的光芒中,石子路在黄昏的温暖中泛着柔和的光芒。一边,水面在落日的余晖中波光粼粼,宛如流动的火焰泛起涟漪;另一边,远处的天际线在柔和的天空映衬下缓缓消融,化作光影轮廓。情侣们手牵手漫步在小径上,晚风带来海洋的气息,轻柔的海浪轻拍着海岸。随着暮色渐深,天空转为金橙色,仿佛在堤道上方描绘出一幅无边的画布。

Xiamen was my last stop of travel in Fujian. As I lingered by the shore for another time, the waves rolled in gently, carrying away the noise of my thoughts, returning only a calm that feels rare in the rush of everyday life. Xiamen’s seaside doesn’t overwhelm like Cote D’Azur, but it soothes my soul. Sitting by the water, I felt my worries dissolve, replaced by the simple joy of watching the horizon blur between sea and sky. Perhaps that is the true gift of this city: a quiet reminder that peace in my heart can be found not in grand monuments, but in the gentle embrace of the ocean.

厦门是我此次福建之旅的最后一站。当我再一次在海边徘徊,海浪轻轻翻滚,带走了纷乱的思绪,只留下在喧嚣日常中难得的宁静。这里的海滨没有法国蔚蓝海岸那般惊艳,却以温柔抚慰着我的心灵。静坐水边,所有的烦恼仿佛随风而去,取而代之的是凝视海天交汇处模糊地平线时涌上的纯粹快乐。也许,这便是这座城市的真正馈赠:悄然提醒我们,心中的平静并非源自宏大叙事,而是来自大海温柔的拥抱。

Following the Immortals on Heavenly Paths of Wuyi

仙踪云路武夷行

In the quiet cradle of northwest Fujian lies a sacred land called Wuyi Mountain. This UNESCO World Heritage site is like a living poem, etched in cliffs and whispered by waters, where Taoist sages, Confucian scholars, and tea masters once walked in reflection. Wuyi is not only known for its breathtaking landscapes — crimson cliffs, emerald rivers, and cloud-kissed peaks — but for its legendary rock tea and the graceful balance between culture and nature. I spent three days in this beautiful place during my Christmas trip in 2024 and caught its most splendid moment from morning to evening using my camera.

福建西北部静谧的群山坐落着一片名为武夷的旅游圣地。这座被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的瑰宝,如同一首镌刻在赤壁丹崖上的活诗,山水之间低吟浅唱,道家高士、儒家学者与茶道大师皆曾在此驻足沉思。武夷山不仅以其令人叹为观止的自然美景著称——赤红的岩壁、碧绿的溪流、云雾缭绕的山峰如画卷般铺展开来——更因其传奇的岩茶与自然、人文交融的独特气质而闻名于世。2024年圣诞节,我在这里度过了三天的悠然时光,用镜头追逐晨曦与暮霭,记录下武夷山最动人的瞬间

As the first rays of morning pierced the veil of winter mist, the tea fields of Wuyi Mountain began to stir. The golden sun poured its light across the terraced slopes like warm honey. It spilled over the ridges with a quiet generosity, wrapping the emerald bushes in a soft glow. Shadows retreated behind stone ridges, and the winter chill that once clung to the earth began to ease. In that moment, under the golden winter sun, the tea fields breathe again — calm, green, and alive.

当清晨第一缕柔光突破冬日的薄雾,武夷山的茶田悄然苏醒。金色的晨曦似温暖的蜜,倾泻于错落的梯田之上,为每一株翠绿的茶树披上了柔和的光纱。随着阴影渐渐退到石脊之后,那曾笼罩大地的寒意也随之散去。就在这金色的冬日晨光中,茶田再度焕发出生机——一片宁静、翠绿且充满生命力的景象。

By midday, the sun stood high above its jade-carved ridges, the sunlight was no longer gentle, but bright and steady — like a lantern held by heaven itself. The mist of morning has melted away, revealing the full grandeur of the mountain’s contours. Below, the Nine-Bend Stream flowed with tranquil rhythm, its surface catching fragments of sunlight like broken mirrors. The river bends reflected the sky and mountain, turning blue and green into liquid silk. At this moment, the mountains basked in the warmth cozily.

正午时分,太阳高悬于玉脊之巅,阳光不再柔和,炙热而明亮,如同一盏高高升起的金色灯笼。晨雾早已散去,群山的雄伟轮廓清晰显现,仿佛沉默的巨人肃立在天地之间。九曲溪悄然流淌在山脚下,水面宛如碎裂的镜子,反射着阳光的碎金。河湾中,山峦与天空倒映其间,蓝与绿交织成流动的丝绸,轻轻荡漾。此刻,万物静谧,唯有阳光洒落在山巅与水面,群山仿佛在这金色的洗礼中微微舒展,尽显从容与惬意。

As the sun began its descent behind the distant ridge lines, Xiannü Peak caught the day’s final light. Her gentle silhouette, carved with grace and quiet dignity, stood bathed in a golden radiance, as if she herself is aglow from within. Pale rose, soft gold, and lavender hues wrapped around her like flowing robes of silk. The surrounding peaks darkened, but Xiannü Peak remained luminous and serene, like a goddess suspended between heaven and earth.

当夕阳缓缓沉入远方的山脊,仙女峰悄然捕捉到这一天最后的余晖。她柔和的轮廓在暮色中愈发清晰,如同被雕刻出的宁静与优雅,沐浴在一抹金色的光芒中,仿佛自身也在发光。淡玫瑰、柔金与浅紫交织成梦幻的色彩,如轻纱长裙般环绕其身,为她披上神秘而圣洁的外衣。周围群峰渐渐黯淡,唯有仙女峰依旧熠熠生辉,安详矗立,如一位悬浮于天地之间的女神,静观日落,凝视永恒。

I lived in the hotel not far away from the scenic area. From the streets of Wuyi City, the mountains rose not far away, their green silhouettes etched clearly against the sky. Standing on this bridge, I could easily catch sight of the rolling ridges and majestic cliffs. The boundary between city and mountain here feels soft.

我下榻在一间临近景区的酒店,举目望去,武夷山市街道的尽头便是群山环绕。翠绿的山峦在天幕下轮廓分明,仿佛触手可及。站在桥上眺望,连绵起伏的山脊与雄伟的悬崖一览无遗,如画卷般铺展开来。在这片土地上,城市与山脉仿佛渐渐融为一体,界限变得模糊,仿佛自然悄然渗入了城市的肌理之中

It is really a sanctuary for the weary heart, a place where every breath feels lighter, every step slower. Here, the pace of life softens naturally. Even while walking along the quiet streets, relaxation comes easily. The sky stretched wide and endlessly blue, like a silk canopy unfurled above. The green peaks stood nearby, calm and ever-present. They seemed close enough to touch, always within sight, as if the mountains were quietly keeping company with the town below. As I strolled through the city, the scene was like a living painting—crystal-clear waters meandering through town, their surfaces shimmering under the sunlight, mirroring the sky and cliffs above. The river glided slowly, and its calm flow seemed to carry away every worry.

这里真是一处治愈疲惫心灵的圣地。空气清新,连呼吸都变得轻盈,脚步也不由自主地慢了下来。在这里,生活的节奏仿佛自然地放缓了,就连随意走宁静的街道上,也能让人感到从容与自在。湛蓝如洗的天空,如丝绸般轻柔地铺展开来,令人心旷神怡。近处的群山苍翠欲滴,静谧安然,仿佛就守护在城市的边缘,不动声色地陪伴着每一位过客。它们始终停留在视野之中,带来一种踏实的安宁。漫步城中,眼前的景象犹如一幅流动的画卷。清澈的河水静静蜿蜒穿过城镇,水面在阳光下泛着粼粼波光,映照着蔚蓝的天空与巍峨的山崖。河水缓缓流淌,仿佛把心头的烦忧一并带走,让人心随水远,宁静而澄澈。

There are four major scenic spots in Wuyi Mountain: Tianyou Mountain, The One-Line Sky, Tiger Roaring Rock, and Xiannü Peak. Visitors can go to each place by buses connecting every scenic spot. The travel infrastructure in the area is perfect. Travelers can choose any ways they want like strolling quietly along the stream, direct buses, rugged mountain paths or a romantic trip of bamboo rafts.

武夷山风景区主要包括四大核心景区:天游山、一线天、虎啸岩和仙女峰。各景点之间有观光巴士相连,交通便利,游客可以轻松往返其间。武夷山的旅游基础设施十分完善,无论是沿溪漫步,感受宁静自然;还是搭乘直达巴士,快捷省心;亦或沿着蜿蜒的山路徒步探幽,体验探险之趣;又或是乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪上,享受诗意浪漫的水上之旅,游客皆可依自身喜好自由选择,畅游其间。

Hailed as the most iconic peak of Wuyi Mountain, Tianyou Mountain — meaning “Heavenly Tour Peak” — is a place where the earth seems to merge with the sky. Rising to an elevation of about 408 meters, it is known as the “First Wonderland of Wuyi” and is a must-visit for those seeking the essence of Wuyi’s beauty. The mountain is straight and steep like a very tall wall raised in front of me.

天游山被誉为武夷山最具标志性的山峰。在这里,天地仿佛交融,云雾缭绕间,仿佛步入人间仙境。山峰海拔约408米,有“武夷第一仙境”之称,是领略武夷山之美不可错过的胜地。山势陡峭挺拔,仿佛一道高墙巍然矗立在眼前,既震撼又令人心生敬畏。

The climb to the summit winds through 888 steep stone steps, ancient pines, and dramatic cliffs. Along the way, travelers are very tired but greeted by stunning views of emerald peaks and the famous Nine-Bend Stream curling gracefully below like a jade ribbon. As I ascended higher, the morning mist thinned, the beauty of Wuyi unfolded in my eyes gradually.

攀登顶峰之路蜿蜒曲折,沿途是888级陡峭的石阶,穿行于古松参天、悬崖峭壁交错的山林之间。一路上,游客们虽疲惫不堪,却也被眼前的美景所吸引:翠绿的山峰层层叠叠,九曲溪宛如玉带般在山谷中蜿蜒流淌。随着海拔逐渐升高,缭绕的晨雾缓缓散去,武夷山的壮丽风光也在我眼前徐徐铺展,令人心旷神怡,忘却疲惫。

At the summit, the reward is breathtaking — a panoramic view of the entire Wuyi landscape. Tea fields ripple across the hills, the transparent and clear winding stream glistens like silk, and distant ridges stand in layered blues and greens. On clear days, the sky feels close enough to touch, and the clouds drift past at eye level, creating the sensation of walking through the heavens.

登顶之时,眼前展现出令人叹为观止的壮丽景色——武夷山的秀美尽收眼底。茶田如绿毯般蜿蜒于起伏的山峦之间,清澈透明的溪流宛如丝绸般闪耀,远方的山脊层层叠叠,碧波荡漾。晴朗的天空仿佛伸手可及,云朵轻轻飘过眼前,犹如漫步于天际之间。

The tea terraces represent centuries of craftsmanship and culture of Wuyi. Layer upon layer, the terraces ripple across the slopes like emerald waves, following the curves of the mountains. Here, the famous rock tea grows and is nourished by the mineral-rich soil and the unique mountain mist that drifts through the air. The tea bushes cling to the rugged terrain, their deep roots reaching into cracks of ancient stone. In the early morning, the terraces were veiled in soft fog. As the sun rises, its light gradually melt away the mist, revealing glistening leaves covered with tiny dew droplets, shimmering under the golden glow.

茶叶梯田凝聚了武夷数百年的工艺与文化。层层叠叠的梯田宛如碧波荡漾,沿着山峦的曲线蜿蜒而上。这里生长着著名的岩茶,富含矿物质的土壤和弥漫于空气中的独特山雾滋养着茶树。茶树依傍着崎岖的地形,根系深入古老的石缝之中。清晨时分,梯田被轻柔的雾气笼罩,随着太阳冉冉升起,阳光渐渐驱散薄雾,露出晶莹剔透的茶叶,叶面挂满晶莹的露珠,在金色光芒的映照下熠熠生辉。

Da Hong Pao is called the “King of Rock Teas”. The name Da Hong Pao, meaning “Big Red Robe,” originates from a centuries-old legend. It is said that during the Ming Dynasty, a scholar traveling to the imperial exams fell gravely ill while passing through Wuyi Mountain. Local monks brewed him tea from a special bush growing on the cliffs. After drinking it, he recovered miraculously, went on to excel in his exams, and became a high-ranking official. In gratitude, the emperor sent great red robes to cover the bushes that had produced the miraculous tea.

大红袍,被誉为“岩茶之王”,因其背后流传百年的传奇故事而增添神秘色彩。相传在明朝,一位赴京赶考的书生途经武夷山,不幸染上重病。山中僧人以生长在悬崖峭壁上的一种奇特茶树之叶为他煮茶,书生饮后病体迅速痊愈,顺利参加科举并金榜题名,最终官拜高位。得知此事的皇帝为表嘉奖,特命人将大红袍披于这几株灵茶之上,“大红袍”之名由此流传至今。

In this photo, the six mother trees of Da Hong Pao preserved in the red rails are regarded as national treasures. Due to their extreme rarity and cultural value, harvesting leaves from these ancient bushes has been strictly forbidden since 2006 to preserve them for future generations.

照片中,红色篱笆围护着六棵大红袍母树,被誉为国宝。因其极为珍稀且具有重要的文化价值,自2006年起便被全面禁止采摘,以永久保护这一珍贵遗产,传承给子孙后代。

Wuyi Mountain is laced with countless winding paths, inviting travelers to explore its hidden corners. As I wandered through its serene valleys, it wasn’t just the towering cliffs and emerald waters that drew my gaze. Scattered across moss-covered walls and carved into the rugged cliffs are hundreds of stone inscriptions—some weathered and fading with time, others still strikingly vivid. These ancient etchings feel like whispers from the past. Walking past them, I felt as though I were retracing the footsteps of explorers like Xu Xiake, following the trails they once walked.

武夷山蜿蜒曲折,无数小径在山林间穿行,仿佛在邀请旅人去探寻那些隐秘而静谧的角落。漫步于宁静的山谷,不仅是巍峨的峭壁和碧波荡漾的溪流吸引着我,更多的是岩壁间那些沉默却深刻的印记。青苔斑驳的石壁上,散布着上百处石刻——有的已随岁月风化,模糊了轮廓;有的却依然清晰如昨,气韵犹存。它们仿佛是历史在低语,是前人留下的心声。在这样的山路上前行,我仿佛化身为徐霞客,沿着他当年的足迹,穿越时光。

Winter is better time to visit Wuyi. Most of the evergreen trees—such as pine and bamboo—remain lush and steadfast, their deep green needles and leaves standing firm against the cool air. They blanket the slopes and line the streams. Some maples and sweet gum trees blush with lingering shades of amber, gold, and soft crimson, their leaves fluttering lightly in the wind. The colors are not as fiery as autumn.

冬季是游览武夷山的最佳时节。山中大多数常绿树木,如松树和竹子,依然郁郁葱葱、挺拔苍翠,深绿的枝叶在清冷的空气中显得更加坚韧有力。这些绿色植物覆盖着山坡,沿着潺潺溪流蜿蜒伸展,构成一幅宁静而和谐的冬日画卷。而少数枫树与枫香树,则悄然披上了琥珀、金黄与浅红的斑斓色彩,叶片在山风中轻轻摇曳,虽不如深秋时节那般绚烂,却平添几分静美。

I was heading towards the next destination. As sunlight filtered through the thin winter clouds, the mountain glowed with a quiet radiance—green pines, yellow flowers and golden-brown leaves weave a soft, peaceful tapestry. The air is fresh, cool, and still, and every step through the mountain feels like walking through an ink-wash painting, immersing into nature.

我正缓步朝着下一个目的地前行。阳光穿透冬日薄云,洒落在山峦之间,为大地披上一层温柔的光辉。翠绿的松树、明黄的野花与金棕色的落叶交织成一幅宁静的锦绣画卷。空气清新而凉爽,四周静谧无声。每一步登上山道,都仿佛踏入一幅流动的水墨画,让人沉醉于大自然的诗意之中。

The One-Line Sky was the second scenic spot during my visit in Wuyi. It is a narrow gorge formed by the shifting and splitting of massive rock layers over countless years. It stretches for about 100 meters between two towering stone walls that lean so closely together that, in many parts, only a sliver of sky is visible overhead. I was really scary walking through it since the narrowest sections are barely wide enough for me to pass through, with only a faint band of light high above. The passage twisted and wound, revealing unexpected turns and I paused and looked up at the sliver of blue sky above. the air feels thick and cool. With every step deeper into the gorge, there was a growing sense of suffocation due to the overwhelming closeness of the space. The echo of footsteps reverberates eerily, amplifying the isolation.

一线天是我在武夷山游览的第二个景点。它是一条狭长幽深的峡谷,由亿万年间岩层的挤压与断裂逐渐形成,绵延百余米。两侧石壁高耸入云,几乎贴合在一起,只在顶部留下一线天光。踏入峡谷,最初是惊叹,但很快便被一种莫名的压迫感所笼罩。最狭窄的地方几乎无法侧身通过,头顶只剩下一道细如丝缕的蓝天。峡谷蜿蜒曲折,每一个转角都让人猝不及防。我不时停下脚步,抬头望向那一线天光。峡谷深处空气愈发阴冷,湿润的岩壁透出寒意。脚步声在狭窄空间中回荡,回声奇异,仿佛有人悄然跟随,让人倍感孤独与渺小。随着深入,一种窒息般的幽闭感慢慢加剧。

I quickened my pace, drawn forward by the unspoken desire to escape the closing grip of the rocks. As I finally emerged from the tightest stretch, the gorge widened and light flooded back in. There is an undeniable sense of being safe and free as if the wideness and warmness of world has returned to me.

我加快了脚步,心中那股无声的渴望驱使着我不断前行,只想逃离岩壁的压迫与束缚。终于,从那最狭窄的一段豁然走出,峡谷陡然开阔,阳光倾泻而下。一种难以言喻的安全感与自由感在胸中油然而生,仿佛重新呼吸到了世界的宽阔与温暖。

Among the many peaks that grace Wuyi Mountain, Xiannü Peak — also known as Fairy Maiden Peak stands out with its graceful beauty and timeless legend. Rising quietly by the riverbanks, this peak is famed for its elegant silhouette, said to resemble a celestial maiden wrapped in flowing robes, gazing softly over the landscape like a guardian.

武夷山群峰林立,其中仙女峰尤为引人注目,以其婀娜多姿的身姿与流传千古的传说而著称。仙女峰静静耸立在溪水之畔,线条柔美、轮廓清晰,远望宛如一位身着飘逸长袍的仙女,静静地凝望着四周的山水,仿佛在守护这片人间仙境。

Local legend tells of a celestial fairy who descended from heaven to help tame the floods and protect the people of Wuyi. She fell in love with the land and chose to remain, watching over the valleys and rivers below. Her spirit, as the story goes, became forever entwined with the mountain, her compassion and beauty eternally preserved in the stone.

相传,远古时有一位仙女自天而降,为助武夷百姓平息洪水,守护山川。她为这片青山绿水所倾心,甘愿留下,化作山灵,庇佑万物。人们说,她的灵魂早已与武夷山脉融为一体,她的慈悲与美丽,也悄然镌刻在山间岩石之上,亘古不灭。

I took a rest basked under the warm sunlight on the riverbanks to admire her from below. From this vantage point, the Fairy Maiden appears to watch over the winding Nine-Bend Stream , her reflection is visible in the shimmering waters. This must be the most iconic scene of Wuyi. On midday, when the sun cast clear shadows on the cliffs, her figure grew more distinct, standing tall and poised against the blue sky. In this quiet space, surrounded by mountains and clear stream, I simply sat — no rush, just basking in the sunlight. It felt as though the mountain itself was sharing its timeless serenity with me.

我坐在河岸边,沐浴着温暖的阳光,稍作歇息,抬头仰望那仙女般的山峰。从这个角度望去,仙女仿佛正俯瞰着脚下蜿蜒流淌的九曲溪,身影倒映在粼粼波光中,宛如一幅静谧的画卷。这里,大概是武夷山最具标志性的景致。正午的阳光洒落在峭壁之间,光影勾勒出仙女更加清晰的轮廓。在蓝天白云的映衬下,她显得巍峨而又优雅。四周群山环抱,溪水澄澈透明,我静静地坐着,不急不躁,只是安然地沉浸在这片阳光与山水交融的宁静中。此刻,仿佛连山峰本身也在与我一同分享它那恒久的安详与从容。

I enjoyed spending free time on the riverbank and looked at the bamboo rafts passing by one by one. The water here is as clear as glass, flowing gently over smooth stones and pebbles that glimmer beneath the surface like hidden jewels. In the quiet bends, the stream appears almost motionless, perfectly mirroring the surrounding cliffs, forests, and blue sky above. Lean closer and I could see right to the bottom—tiny fish dart between stones, leaves drift gracefully by, and the soft sands seems to glow with light.

我喜欢在河岸边悠闲地消磨时光,静静地看着一艘艘竹筏缓缓划过水面。这里的河水清澈如镜,轻柔地流过光滑的石块与圆润的鹅卵石,阳光透过水面洒下,它们在水中熠熠生辉,宛若深藏的宝石。静谧的河湾仿佛时光停驻,水面如天然画布,倒映着两岸的悬崖、茂密的林木,和蔚蓝天空。俯身靠近水面,我能清晰地望见河底的世界—小鱼灵巧地穿梭于石缝之间,落叶轻盈地随水漂流,细软的沙粒在阳光照射下泛着点点微光。

For every traveler, drifting on a bamboo raft along the Nine-Bend Stream is an experience not to be missed on a journey through Wuyi. As the raft gently sets off from the riverbank, the world seems to quiet. The only sounds are the soft splash of water against bamboo and the occasional call of a distant bird echoing through the valley.

对于每一位踏上武夷之旅的旅行者而言,乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪之上,都是不可错过的心灵体验。当竹筏缓缓离岸,喧嚣悄然退去,仿佛整个世界都静止了。耳畔只剩下潺潺水声轻拍竹筏,与山谷间偶尔传来的几声鸟鸣。

My trip of bamboo raft started in the very early morning with chill. The raft itself was simple — long bamboo poles lashed together, guided by a skilled boatman who stood at the stern, using a slender pole to steer. With each push, the raft glided smoothly over the crystal-clear waters, moving as effortlessly as a cloud drifting across the sky. The boatman paused halfway, allowing me to take beautiful photos while on the raft.

我的竹筏之旅始于空气清新,气温宜人的清晨。竹筏造型简易结实,由数根粗大的竹竿整齐捆扎而成。一位技艺娴熟的船夫站在筏尾,手持长杆掌舵。他每轻轻一撑,竹筏便在清澈的水面上平稳滑行,仿佛天边的云朵一般轻盈悠然。途中,船夫贴心地停下,让我可以在竹筏上尽情拍照,定格这份美好。

The scenery unfolded slowly, like a painting in motion. On both sides, towering cliffs rose steeply, their faces marked by ancient stone inscriptions and streaked with moss. Above, emerald peaks pierced the sky, some shrouded in mist, others basking in sunlight. Pine trees and bamboo groves leaned over the banks, their reflections swaying gently in the water below.

九曲溪景色徐徐铺展,如同一幅动态的画卷。两岸峭壁巍然耸立,崖壁间布满古老的石刻,青苔斑驳,诉说着岁月的痕迹。远处,翠峰高耸,或隐没在缭绕的云雾中,或沐浴在柔和的阳光里。岸边,松林与竹影相依,倒映在清澈的水面上,随风轻轻摇曳。

As the raft rounds each bend of the meandering stream, new vistas appeared—sometimes a narrow passage where cliffs almost touched. At that moment, I felt completely immersed in the landscape—half drifting, half dreaming. The mountain breeze brushed my face, carrying the faint scent of winter leaves. I enjoyed such a trip of around two hours. My boatman shared legends of the peaks like tales of immortals and lovers. As I glided along, there was no rush, only the soft rhythm of water and the endless unfolding of beauty.

木筏绕过蜿蜒溪流的每一个弯道,新的景致便悄然展开—有时是悬崖两岸几近相接的狭窄水道。此刻仿佛身心完全融入山水之间,半在漂流半入梦。冬叶的淡淡清香伴随山风轻抚我的脸庞,令人心神宁静。这趟约莫两个小时的旅程,如诗如画。船夫娓娓道来山峰的传说以及神仙与恋人的往事。当我随着水流缓缓前行,整个旅程不急不躁,只有溪水温柔的韵律,和眼前无尽的风景相伴。

Wuyi mountain is a perfect place for travelers to spend holidays. I enjoyed the moment when I walked alone the winding mountain path, surrounded by towering cliffs and whispering forests. The stone trail twisted ahead, empty and quiet—no voices, no footsteps, only the soft rustling of leaves and the distant murmur of water tumbling over rocks.

武夷山绝对是旅行者度假的理想之地。漫步于蜿蜒山径之间,仿佛走入一幅静谧的山水画。四周是巍峨的崖壁与低语的森林,石板路在脚下延伸,空旷而宁静——无人的喧嚣,无声的脚步,只有树叶在风中细语,和远处溪水轻拍岩石的呢喃。

There were no other travelers in sight; it felt as though the entire mountain had been reserved just for me. With no one around, I unlocked my phone and switched on the music player. Soon, my favorite song filled my ears, wrapping me in its familiar melody. As the music played, every step seemed lighter, every turn in the path more magical. The rhythm of the song blended with the sounds of nature. In that moment, the whole world seemed to belong to me alone.

四周寂静无声,仿佛整座山峰都为我独自矗立。我掏出手机,打开音乐播放器。熟悉的旋律随即在耳畔响起,将我轻柔包裹。随着音乐缓缓流淌,每一步都变得轻盈,每一道山路的转角仿佛藏着惊喜。歌声与林间鸟鸣、风声水语交织成一首只属于我的交响乐。那一刻,天地辽阔,世界仿佛只为我一人存在。

After ascending winding stone steps shaded by bamboo and ancient pines, I reached one ancient temple called Zhizhi An (止止庵), one of the mountain’s oldest and most secluded temples. Along the way, I could hear the sound of trickling springs and bird calls, as if leading me deeper into the mountain’s heart.

沿着蜿蜒曲折的石阶前行,两侧竹林掩映,古松苍翠,我一步步走向深山中的一座古寺——止止庵。它是山中最古老也最幽静的寺庙之一。一路上,泉水潺潺流淌,鸟鸣清脆婉转,仿佛在引领我走进一片世外之境,

Unlike grand, ornate temples found elsewhere, Zhizhi An is modest, blending gracefully into its mountain setting. Its old stone walls are weathered and moss-covered. Built during the Song Dynasty, the temple has long been associated with Zhu Xi (朱熹), one of China’s most renowned Confucian scholars. It is said that Zhu Xi once practiced quiet meditation here, finding inspiration amid its peaceful surroundings.

止止庵与其他宏伟华丽的寺庙迥然不同,朴素而低调,优雅地融入群山之中。古老的石墙历经风霜洗礼,覆盖着青苔,诉说着岁月的痕迹。这座始建于宋代的寺庙,与中国著名儒学大家朱熹有着深厚渊源。传闻朱熹曾在此静心修学,于宁静幽雅的环境中汲取智慧与灵感。

When I arrived, I was greeted not by grandeur, but by quiet simplicity: a small courtyard framed by old trees and delicate pot plants, and I could smell the faint scent of incense drifting through the air. The tranquility here reminded me the name of this temple which means “Stop and Stop”—a phrase that speaks of halting both physical steps and restless thoughts. When I visited it, my travel in Wuyi would end soon and this will be my last stop of this journey in Wuyi.

抵达这里时,迎接我的不是壮丽的气势,而是一种宁静而古朴的氛围:一个幽静的小院落,古树环绕,盆栽点缀,空气中弥漫着淡淡的香火清香。这份静谧让我联想到寺庙的名字——“止”,寓意着脚步与思绪的停歇。此刻,武夷之旅即将画上句号。

Before I left, I tasted the local dishes in Wuyi Mountain. This region is close to the Jiangxi province and the food is quite spicy. The spicy bamboo shoots fried with sauerkraut is a dish that perfectly captures the bold, rustic flavors of the region. Fresh bamboo shoots, harvested from the thick groves surrounding the cliffs, are prized for their crisp texture. They are stir-fried together with local sauerkraut. The bamboo shoots soak up the rich, spicy flavors of dried chili peppers and fragrant oil, creating a satisfying contrast between crunchy, sour, and spicy. It pairs perfectly with a bowl of freshly steamed rice.

离开武夷山之前,我特地品尝了这里的当地美食。武夷山靠近江西省,当地菜肴偏爱辛辣口味。其中,酸菜炒笋堪称一道地道的乡村佳肴。选用悬崖峭壁附近茂密竹林中采摘的新鲜竹笋,竹笋以其爽脆的质地闻名。竹笋与酸菜一同翻炒,充分吸收了干辣椒和香油的浓郁香辣,口感爽脆且酸辣交织,令人回味无穷。这道美味配上一碗新鲜出炉的米饭,堪称完美搭配。

Wuyi Smoked Duck is one of the region’s most iconic dishes, known for its rich, smoky fragrance and tender meat. Every visitor should try it. The duck is first marinated with local spices and salt, then slowly smoked over a fire fueled by tea leaves, pinewood, and camphor branches—a method unique to the Wuyi region. The result is a beautifully bronzed duck with crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat, infused with a subtle hint of tea and mountain herbs. It’s a dish that perfectly embodies Wuyi’s culinary style.

武夷烟熏鸭是当地最具代表性的美味佳肴,以其浓郁的烟熏香气和鲜嫩多汁的肉质闻名遐迩。每位来到武夷的游客都不容错过这道特色美食。制作过程中,选用优质鸭子,先用当地独特的香料和盐进行腌制,再采用武夷特有的熏制工艺——用茶叶、松木和樟树枝点燃的柴火,缓缓熏烤而成。成品鸭色泽金黄诱人,外皮酥脆,肉质细嫩鲜美,伴随着淡淡的茶香和山药的清幽芳香,令人回味无穷。这道菜完美展现了武夷独特的烹饪魅力和地域风味。

As a solo traveler, I found a rare kind of freedom here. Whether wandering the secluded mountain trails with only the sound of my footsteps or simply sitting by the river, letting the winter sun warm my face, I felt completely at ease. In Wuyi, there is no need to chase sights or rush between attractions. The beauty here is best savored slowly, like a fine cup of rock tea—letting the flavors unfold naturally, each moment revealing something new. For me, the best journeys are the ones where I can travel in my favorite rhythm and experience with my heart!

作为一名独自旅行的旅人,我在这里找到了久违的自由与宁静。漫步在幽静的山间小径,脚步声在林间回响,仿佛与自然对话;坐在河畔,任由冬日暖阳洒在身上,温柔得让人几乎忘了时间。在武夷,无需赶路,无需打卡,每一处风景都不必刻意追寻。它如一杯上好的岩茶,越是静心品味,越能感受到层层叠叠的韵味与惊喜。对我而言,最理想的旅程,就是顺着自己的节奏,慢慢走、用心体验每一刻!

Where Snow Meets Sky: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

雪落玉龙冲云霄

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain or called Yulong is a breathtaking mountain located just north of Lijiang in Yunnan Province. Towering at 5,596 meters, it’s the southernmost snow-capped mountain in the Northern Hemisphere and a sacred peak in Naxi culture, often associated with the guardian deity Sanduo. The mountain is named for its resemblance to a jade dragon lying gracefully among the clouds.

玉龙雪山是一座位于云南省丽江北境的壮丽山峰。它海拔5596米,是北半球维度最南的雪山,也是纳西族文化中的一座圣山,常与守护神三多联系在一起。这座山因其形似一条优雅地盘踞在云雾中的玉龙而得名。

In the sunny morning of June, standing on the charming cobblestone streets of Baisha Old Town, I could observe the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rising dramatically into the clouds. Beyond the tiled rooftops and faded murals of this ancient Naxi village, the sacred snow mountain showed its snow-covered peaks glowing in the sunlight. The journey from Lijiang to the mountain usually takes about 1.5 hours by bus, winding through scenic countryside and small villages. As I left the city behind, the snow-capped peaks began to dominate the horizon gradually.

六月阳光明媚的清晨,在白沙古城迷人的鹅卵石街道上,我注视着远方雄伟的玉龙雪山,它巍峨地耸立在云霄之中。在古老纳西村落的瓦屋顶和褪色的壁画映衬下,这座神圣的雪山向游客展现出白雪皑皑的主峰,在阳光下熠熠生辉。从丽江到玉龙雪山通常乘坐巴士大约需要一个半小时,一路上蜿蜒穿过风景秀丽的乡村,当我彻底离开城市时,白雪皑皑的山峰逐渐笼罩了整个地平线。

As I arrived at the entrance of scenic spot and gazed upwards, the mountain emerged like a silent colossus, its jagged, snow-dusted peaks piercing through a veil of drifting mist. The clouds curled around the mountain’s flanks like flowing silk, revealing glimpses of gleaming ice and ancient rock. Sunlight filters through the clouds, casting a silvery glow on the snow-covered ridges. The contrast between the dark pine forests at the base and the glittering whiteness above is striking, heightening the sense that this is a place touched by the divine.

当我抵达景区入口,抬头仰望,山峰宛如一座安静的巨人,嶙峋的雪峰在层层云雾中若隐若现。云雾缭绕,宛如飘逸的丝绸环绕在山腰,闪闪发光的冰块和古老的岩层在云彩的遮掩下犹抱琵琶半遮面。阳光透过厚厚的云层,在白雪皑皑的山脊上洒下一层银色的光芒。山脚下深邃的松林与山顶晶莹的白雪形成了鲜明的对比,更让人感受到仿佛置身于一片神圣的土地。

The snow mountain is not only known for its towering snow-capped peaks but also for its rich variety of scenic spots like Spruce Meadow, Blue Moon Valley, and Yak Meadow. Separate from the Glacier Park cable car towards the peak, the cable car at mid-level altitude leads visitors to forested trails and open meadows, where they can stroll under tall evergreens with the snowy peaks in the distance.

这座雪山不仅以其巍峨的雪峰而闻名,还拥有例如云杉坪、蓝月谷和牦牛坪等丰富多样的景点。与通往山顶的冰川公园大索道不同,中海拔的缆车引导游客前往山脊中间的森林小径和开阔的草地,在那里,游客可以漫步在高大的常青树下,远眺白雪皑皑的山峰。

Spruce Meadow, is a serene alpine pasture nestled on the eastern slope of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, about 3,240 meters above sea level. Surrounded by towering spruce trees and backed by the majestic snow-capped peaks, it is often described as a “natural oxygen bar”.

云杉坪是一片安静的高山牧场,坐落在玉龙雪山东坡,海拔约3240米。云杉坪周围环绕着高耸的云杉树,背靠雄伟的雪峰,被誉为“天然氧吧”。

Spruce is a type of coniferous evergreen tree that belongs to the genus Picea. These trees are commonly found in cool or mountainous regions of the Northern Hemisphere. The tall and straight trees have sharp, four-sided needles that grow individually from the branches and keep their green needles year-round, making them a symbol of endurance and vitality.

云杉是一种常绿针叶树,属于云杉属,常见于北半球的高山或气候凉爽的地区。这种树木高大挺拔,枝干坚实,树叶呈针状,四面分布,独立生长,终年常绿。它不仅展现出顽强的生命力,也象征着坚韧与生机。

This peaceful meadow holds deep cultural significance for the local Naxi people, who believe it to be a sacred land—a place where lovers pledge eternal devotion and spirits find peace. The area is shrouded in mystery mist. A wooden boardwalk allows me to wander gently through the forest and meadow, soaking in the crisp mountain air.

这片宁静的草甸在当地纳西族人心中有着深厚的文化与精神意义。他们视其为一片圣地——恋人曾在这里立下永恒的誓言,逝去的灵魂也在这里得以安息。薄雾轻笼,山林静谧,为这里增添了一层神秘的氛围。沿着蜿蜒的木栈道,我悠然漫步在苍翠的森林与广阔的草甸之间,呼吸着清冽纯净的山间空气,仿佛走进了一个遗世独立的净土。

Spruce Meadow

As I wandered through Spruce Meadow, it’s not just the towering spruces and misty mountain backdrop that captured my heart. It’s the quiet presence of the animals that call this alpine pasture home. Grazing cattle and gentle lambs moved slowly across the open fields, their dark silhouettes a peaceful contrast against the soft green of the grass and the distant silver peaks. I was totally immersed in the beaty of nature and forgot the elapse of time.

当我漫步在云杉草甸上,吸引我心灵的,不仅是巍峨挺拔的云杉和缭绕在山峦之间的云雾,还有那些悠然栖息在高山牧场上的动物们。成群的牛儿低头吃草,温顺的羊羔轻盈地穿行在开阔的草地上,它们深色的身影与柔软的绿草、远处银白色的雪山交相辉映,构成一幅静谧而生动的高原画卷。此刻,我仿佛与自然融为一体,忘却了时间的流转。

Life moves at a slower and more peaceful rhythm—not just for visitors, but for the local cattle that roam freely through the open fields and forest edges. These animals, often a mix of local mountain breeds and Tibetan yak hybrids, are well adapted to the high-altitude environment and cooler climate. These animals live in harmony with the land, tended by local Naxi herders who have practiced traditional grazing here for generations.

这里的生活节奏变得缓慢宁静——不仅对游客如此,对那些在开阔的草地和林缘间自由徜徉的牛群也是如此。这些牛大多是本地山地牛与藏牦牛的杂交品种,体型结实,适应高海拔和凉爽的山地气候,显得格外沉稳。它们由世代居住于此的纳西族牧民放养,与这片土地建立起深厚而和谐的关系,成为雪山脚下这片宁静天地的一部分。

At the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Blue Moon Valley is a place of breathtaking, otherworldly beauty. Its scene mixed of mountain and water is similar to Jiu Zhaigou. With its turquoise-blue glacial waters, terraced limestone pools, and surrounding forests, the valley looks like a scene lifted from a fairy tale—or a moonlit dream, which is exactly how it got its name.

蓝月谷静静地坐落在玉龙雪山脚下,美得令人屏息,仿佛遗世独立的人间仙境。山与水交织的画面,如同九寨沟般梦幻迷人。碧蓝如玉的冰川融水,层层叠叠的石灰岩水潭,在阳光下泛着神秘的光泽,四周被茂密的森林环抱,营造出一个仿佛只存在于童话中的世界。而当夜色降临,月光洒落水面,整片山谷宛若沉入一场幽蓝的梦境——“蓝月谷”这个名字,便由此得来。

The pure color of the water comes from the mountain’s glacial runoff. Water tumbles down a series of natural white stone steps, forming gentle waterfalls and quiet lagoons. The cleanness of the water is due to its content rich in calcium carbonate, which gives the pools their signature jade and sapphire hues, really mesmerizing.

纯净澄澈的水色源自雪山冰川的融水,沿着天然的白色石阶缓缓流淌,汇聚成轻柔的瀑布与静谧的湖泊。这清凉的泉水富含碳酸钙,赋予湖水如翡翠般的碧绿与蓝宝石般的湛蓝光泽,梦幻如画。

Blue Moon Valley

On clear days, the lagoon reflects the sky like a mirror, creating a glowing crescent shape that resembles a blue moon resting in the valley. Its surface is so still and clear that it reflects clearly the surrounding forests and cliffs like a painting, creating a perfect blend of sky, mountain, and water. I really enjoyed the gentle sound of cascading water. The natural environment made me relax.

晴朗的日子里,泻湖如同一面晶莹剔透的镜子,倒映着湛蓝的天空,勾勒出一道闪耀的新月,仿佛一轮蓝色的月亮静静地依偎在山谷之间。湖水平静澄澈,四周的森林与悬崖清晰倒映在水面上,仿佛天地与湖泊在此完美交融,构成一幅天然的山水画卷。我沉浸在潺潺流水的轻柔声中,心灵被这片纯净的自然抚慰,感受到久违的宁静与放松。

The astonishing sapphire hue of the water really captured my breath. It was so vivid and felt almost unreal. The color glowed under the sunlight, a deep, crystalline blue that shifted and shimmered with every ripple. It’s not the ordinary blue of lakes or rivers, but a gem-like brilliance, as if someone had poured liquid sapphire across the land, giving it eternal glory.

看湖水那令人惊叹的蓝宝石色泽,仿佛能瞬间将我的呼吸凝固。它如此鲜艳纯洁,令人几乎怀疑自己的眼睛是否陷入了一场梦境。阳光洒落在湖面上,湖水泛起深蓝色的光辉,每一次微风吹过,涟漪荡漾,波光闪烁,犹如璀璨星空。这不仅仅是普通湖泊的蓝色,而是如宝石般绽放的光芒,仿佛大自然亲手将液态蓝宝石倾洒在这片大地上,赋予它永恒的光辉。

The calm water became a flawless mirror—so smooth and undisturbed like polished glass. What’s most striking was the sharp, almost surreal line that divides the reflection—the point where blue met green, where sky and forest kissed across the water’s face.

平静的水面如同一面完美无瑕的镜子,光滑如抛光玻璃,静谧无波。最为引人注目的是那条几乎超现实的分界线——蓝色与绿色交织之处,天空与森林在水面上交相辉映。

Walking around the lake was definitely an enjoyable trip like stepping into a living watercolor painting. A well-kept path wound gently along the shoreline, guiding me past a series of glacial-blue pools and cascading waterfalls. The only sounds were the soft murmur of water and the occasional rustle of wind through the trees. As I circled the lake, I passed some scenic viewing platforms where I could stop to take in the full grandeur of the valley and experience the miracle of the nature.

环湖漫步绝对是一段令人陶醉的旅程,我仿佛步入了一幅生动的水彩画中。一条小径沿着湖岸蜿蜒而行,精心维护的步道引领我穿越一片片湛蓝的湖水和轻盈垂落的瀑布。四周弥漫着细水潺潺的声音,偶尔风吹过树梢,带来一阵沙沙的低语。随着我绕湖一圈,沿途经过了几个风景如画的观景台,每一处都让我驻足,深深吸一口清新的空气,陶醉于山谷的宏伟景色中,与大自然的奇妙邂逅永远镌刻在心间。

On the top of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Glacier Park offers one of the most thrilling and unforgettable encounters with alpine beauty. Reached via a dramatic cable car ride that lifts visitors to an altitude of 4,500 meters, the park is a realm of icy wonder—where jagged peaks pierce the clouds and ancient glaciers glisten under the open sky. Standing in this vast world of ice and snow, it feels like entering an isolated world. The surroundings are silent, with only the fresh air and the whistling cold wind. It reminded me of the lyric from’ Let it go’ : The snow glows white on the mountain tonight /Not a footprint to be seen/A kingdom of isolation.

玉龙雪山的山顶上,冰川公园为游客提供了最惊险刺激、最令人难忘的高山美景体验。乘坐缆车,游客将直达海拔4500米的冰川公园,这里宛如一片冰雪奇境——嶙峋的山峰直插云霄,古老的冰川在湛蓝的天空下闪闪发光。站在这片广袤的冰雪天地中,仿佛进入了一个人迹罕至的秘境,周围寂静无声,只有清冽的空气和呼啸的寒风。这一刻,我不禁想起了动画片《Let it go》中的歌词:“今夜山上积雪皑皑,不见一丝足迹,宛如与世隔绝的王国。”

Glacier Park

The landscape spread out in a vast expanse of white. Glacial formations, frozen crevices, and snow-covered cliffs create a powerful, otherworldly scene. The high altitude and low temperature make every step feel like a small triumph—and each pause offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. Visitors of the park commonly experience high altitude sickness symptoms like dizziness and shortness of breath. It is recommended to carry a portable oxygen canister, which is widely available in Lijiang and at the mountain entrance and wear or rent a thick down jacket. It’s a place where we stand face-to-face with the irresistible power of nature.

眼前的白雪皑皑,蔚为壮观,延绵不绝,仿佛天地间的一片纯净无垠的白色世界。冰川的痕迹、冻结的裂缝以及悬崖峭壁上积雪的层层覆盖,共同编织成一幅气吞万里、如同世外桃源般的画卷。高海拔的空气稀薄与低温的严酷,令每一步都像是一次小小的挑战,每一次驻足,便能收获四周群峰与深谷的壮丽全景。

在这里游客常会感受到高原反应,轻微的头晕与呼吸急促非常常见。为了确保安全,携带便携氧气罐(丽江及山口地区随处都在售卖)与穿戴厚实的羽绒服成为了游玩必需的功课。在这片天地之间,我们与大自然的无敌力量不期而遇,感受到那份纯粹的力量与震撼。

As I descended from the towering heights of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, I felt as though I was stepping out of a dream. This journey wasn’t just about breathtaking views or stunning photos—it was about the raw, humbling power of nature. The quiet reflections on sapphire waters and the clouds dance around the peaks both left me a deep impression. I could embrace nature closely. Standing in the shadow of the snow-capped ridges, I was reminded how small we are, and how deeply we can feel when nature opens its arms.

从巍峨的玉龙雪山缓缓下山,我仿佛离开了一场缥缈的梦境。此行的意义,远不止于那些壮丽的景色和令人惊叹的照片,更在于深切感受到大自然那股原始震撼心灵的力量。湖面如镜,波光粼粼,山巅的云雾缥缈飘逸,所有的一切都深深刻印在我的记忆中。我可以近距离拥抱大自然。站在雪峰的阴影下,面对那巍峨的山脊,我忽然意识到大自然面前人类是多么的渺小,那份无言的震撼是如此深刻而强烈!

The romance hidden between Cangshan’s Peaks and Erhai’s Shores

苍山洱海间的浪漫

Between the misty peaks of Cangshan and the shimmering waters of Erhai, Dali is a place where time slows down, and nature whispers stories of the past. With its ancient town’s cobblestone streets and the scent of jasmine tea in the air, Dali exudes an eternal charm that captivates the wandering soul. Here, the mountains breathe tranquility, and the lake reflects the poetry of the blue sky. Whether strolling along Erhai’s shores, hiking Cangshan’s winding trails, or simply sipping tea in a sun-drenched courtyard, Dali invites travelers to embrace its leisurely rhythm, where every moment feels like a verse in a lyric poetry.

云雾缭绕的苍山山峰和波光粼粼的洱海水畔之间,大理是一个绝对慢节奏的地方,在这里大自然低声细语陈述着过去的故事。大理古镇的鹅卵石街道和空气中弥漫的茉莉花茶香味,散发着永恒的魅力,吸引着四海为家的灵魂。群山静谧安详,湖泊倒映着蓝天的诗意。无论是漫步在洱海岸边,徒步穿越苍山蜿蜒的小径,还是简单地在阳光普照的庭院里品茶,游客都以悠闲的节奏在品味生活,这里的每一刻都像一首抒情诗。

Dali has a mild, spring-like climate year-round due to its location on a plateau in Yunnan Province. I spent three days in this romantic and poetic city in May 2024. The spring of Dali has pleasant temperatures ranging from 10–22°C, with blooming flowers and clear skies. The day of my arrival was a cloudy day with occasional showers. My first destination is the Jinsuo Island where visitors can take the travel boat around the island. The photo taken in the cloudy day can not show the beauty and charm of this city at all.

大理位于云南高原,气候温和,四季如春。2024年5月,我在这座浪漫诗意的城市度过了三天美好的假期。大理的春天气温宜人,一般是10-22°C,百花盛开,万里无云。我到的那天是阴天,偶尔有阵雨。我的第一个目的地是金梭岛,游客可以在那里乘坐游船环岛。大理阴天拍摄的照片完全不能展现这座城市的美丽和魅力。

Erhai Lake was veiled in soft mist that blurred the boundaries between water and sky. The lake’s vast expanse shimmered under the delicate drizzle, its surface rippling like silk brushed by the wind. As the mist thickened, the distant shores faded into a gloomy haze. In the background, Cangshan Mountain rose like a frozen ocean waves crashing against the sky. The interplay of mist and mountain created a shifting and alternating landscape, where peaks appeared and vanished like illusions.

洱海笼罩在薄雾中,水天交界,一片茫茫无际。细雨濛濛,湖面波光粼粼,如丝般被风拂过。雾气渐浓,远处的湖岸渐渐隐入一片阴霾之中。苍山耸立在云雾中,犹如冰冻的海涛拍打着天空。雾气与山峰交相辉映,山峰时隐时现,犹如幻影一般。

In the afternoon, when the sun got rid of gloomy clouds and clear blue sky showed its bright face to the visitors, the Erhai was like a dream land. Under the golden embrace of the sun, Erhai Lake sparkled like a vast sapphire, stretching endlessly beneath the boundless blue sky. Its crystal-clear waters shimmered with gentle waves, reflecting the sunlight and blue sky like a mirror.

午后,当太阳驱散阴霾,湛蓝的天空露出灿烂的面容时,洱海仿佛置身于梦幻之地。在金色光芒的怀抱下,洱海像一块巨大的蓝宝石一样闪闪发光,在无边无际的蓝天之下绵延千里而不绝。清澈的湖水泛着柔波,像镜子一样反射着阳光和蓝天。

Erhai Park

The photo was taken in the Erhai Park before the sun set. The horizon was painted with soft hues where the lake seems to meet the sky at the limit of earth. It created an illusion of infinity—a landscape where nature’s brilliance unfolded in its purest form. I always dreamed of visiting Dali. At this moment, what struck me most was how the landscape existing in my mind felt alive now.

这张照片是在日落之前在洱海公园拍摄的。遥远的地平线此刻被涂上了柔和的色调,湖水似乎在尽头与天空相接。它营造出了一种天地无限的幻觉—将大自然的灿烂光辉以最纯粹的形式展现出来。我曾经一直梦想着去大理旅行。此刻,最让我震撼的就是曾经脑海中臆想的风景如今在眼前变得生动活现起来。

When I walked on the promenade along the south of Erhai, I could enjoy the most beautiful scene of this city. Along the lake’s shores, colorful flowers bloomed in dazzling arrays, their petals swaying in the breeze like delicate strokes on a painter’s canvas. Cherry blossoms, azaleas, and wild daisies burst into color, the pink, purple, and yellow petals forming a striking contrast against the deep blue of Erhai.

漫步在洱海南岸的步行大道上,满眼都是这座城市最美的风景。湖畔盛开着五颜六色的鲜花,令人眼花缭乱,花瓣在微风中摇曳,就像画布上精致的笔触。樱花、杜鹃花和野雏菊色彩缤纷,粉色、紫色和黄色的花瓣与洱海的深蓝色形成鲜明对比。

Gazing at the opposite side of lake, Cangshan Mountain stood majestically in the distance, its towering peaks stretching toward the heavens like a guardian of Dali. Cloaked in emerald forests and rugged cliffs, the mountain exuded an air of grandeur and mystery, its ridges undulating like the ocean waves. As the sun set, golden light spilled over the peaks, casting long shadows. There is no doubt it is an iconic symbol of Dali’s natural beauty.

遥望洱海对岸,远处苍山巍峨耸立,高耸的山峰直冲云霄,犹如大理的守护者。苍山掩映在翠绿的森林和险峻的悬崖之间,散发着雄伟而神秘的气息,山脊起伏如浪。夕阳西下,金色的光芒斜洒在山峰上,投下修长的剪影。毫无疑问,它是大理自然美景的标志象征。

Xingsheng Bridge

Spanning the shimmering waters of Erhai Lake, this sleek and elegant Xingsheng Bridge connects the two shores, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Its streamlined structure and sturdy pillars reflect in the tranquil waters below, creating a mirror-like image. At dusk, golden hues bathe it in a warm glow, making it a stunning sight against the distant silhouette of Cangshan Mountain.

这座造型优美、横跨波光粼粼的洱海的兴盛大桥将两岸连接起来,桥上可欣赏到周围壮丽的全景。其流线型结构和坚固的桥柱倒映在平静的水面上,形成如镜般的画面。黄昏时分,金色的阳光使它沐浴在温暖的光芒中,与远处苍山的轮廓形成鲜明对比,令人叹为观止。

It was a short trip across the bridge to view the scenery along the both sides of Erhai. Traditional Bai-style pavilions and elegant lakeside buildings dot the shoreline, their white walls and dark-tiled roofs reflecting in the tranquil waters like an ink painting. As I stood on the bridge hearing the whisper of wind, I felt an unexpected sense of calm, as if the lake was inviting me to just be—no rush, no worries just the quiet rhythm of nature unfolding around me.

游客可以很快穿过大桥欣赏洱海两岸的风景。传统的白族风格亭台楼阁和优雅的湖畔建筑零星散布在岸边,白色的墙壁和深色的瓦片屋顶倒映在平静的水面上,就像一幅水墨画。站在桥上聆听风语,我的心中感到一种意想不到的平静,仿佛洱海在邀请我静静地享受这一切—没有匆忙没有烦躁,只有大自然的宁静。

The Bai style pavilion has intricate wood carvings adorning its pillars, and delicate blue-and-white motifs. Beneath the pavilion, a young couple posed for a photograph, dressed in exquisite traditional Chinese attire. The woman wore a flowing hanfu, its silk fabric embroidered with delicate floral patterns, fluttering gently in the breeze. Her long sleeves draped elegantly and were adorned with pearls and gold filigree. The man, dressed in a dignified robe with intricate patterns, gazed at her with admiration. Dali is really a place where love lingers in the air, where romance is woven into the fabric of nature and tradition.

这座白族风格的阁楼柱子上装饰着精美的木雕,还有精致的蓝白图案。亭子下面,一对年轻夫妇穿着精致的中国传统服装在摆拍。女方身着飘逸的汉服,丝绸面料上绣着精致的花卉图案,在微风中轻轻飘扬。她的长袖优雅地垂落,上面装饰着珍珠和金丝。男方身着一件带有复杂图案的庄重长袍,用爱慕的目光凝视着她。大理确实是一个爱情洋溢的地方,天然的浪漫融入了自然和传统中。

As the day faded, the sunset over Erhai was an unforgettable sight—flaming red and golden streaks reflected in the water, turning the lake into a glowing masterpiece. It was really a pleasant experience to go on a holiday at the lakeshore of Erhai. That was a memorable moment when I gazed at the expanse of Erhai, where fishing boats drifted lazily and gentle waves lap against the shores slowly. The soft wind, cool and refreshing, carries the delicate scent of the lake. When the darkness fell gradually, a sense of eternal tranquility washed over my heart and all the worries seemed to dissolve into the vast and open sky.

黄昏时分,洱海的落日景象令人难忘,火红的霞光和金色的光纹倒映在水面上,让整个湖面成为一幅光彩夺目的绚丽杰作。在洱海畔度假真是一次回忆满满的经历。凝望着广阔的水面以及悠闲地漂浮着的渔船,温柔的波浪缓慢拍打着岸边,那一刻着实令人难忘。轻柔的夜风,凉爽而清新,带着一丝湖水的清香。当夜幕逐渐降临时,一种永恒的宁静涌上心头,所有的烦恼似乎都消散在广阔的天际中。

Dali Ancient City

Dali is a place with rich history. The Ancient City stands as a testament to centuries of history, and culture. With its well-preserved architecture, and stone-paved streets, Dali is more than just a scenic town—it is a living chronicle of the past. Dali’s history dates back over 1,000 years, flourishing as the capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom. Later, the Dali Kingdom, ruled by the Duan family, continued this legacy, spreading Buddhism and fostering a golden age of art, philosophy, and architecture. In 1253 AD, the Mongols, conquered the Dali Kingdom, integrating it into the expanding Yuan Dynasty.

大理是一个历史悠久的地方。这座古城见证了数个世纪的历史和文化变迁。大理古城拥有保存完好的建筑和石板街道,不仅仅是一个风景秀丽的小镇,更是一部活生生的编年史。大理的历史可以追溯到 1000 多年前,作为南诏国的首都而繁荣昌盛。后来,由段氏家族统治的大理国继承了这一传统,传播佛教,并开创了艺术、哲学和建筑的黄金时代。公元1253年,蒙古人征服了大理国,将其并入不断扩张的元朝。

The ancient city is enclosed by brick walls. It is a masterpiece of traditional Bai architecture. The Bai ethnic group is one of China’s 56 officially recognized ethnic minorities, with a population of over two million. Renowned for their rich cultural heritage and deep connection to tea, the Bai people have lived in harmony with the stunning landscapes of Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake for centuries.

这座古城四周环绕着砖墙,是白族传统建筑的杰作。白族是中国56个官方认可的少数民族之一,人口超过200万。白族以其丰富的文化遗产和与茶的深厚渊源而闻名,几个世纪以来这个民族一直依偎在苍山和洱海之畔与之相伴。

Dali thrived as a major stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, where merchants traded Pu’er tea and silk with Tibet and India. The Three-Course Tea Ceremony is a unique and deeply symbolic tradition of the Bai ethnic people in Dali. More than just a tea-drinking ritual, it embodies the philosophy of life, teaching that one must experience bitterness, sweetness, and reflection—just like the journey of life itself. The first tea is strong, bitter, brewed from local roasted tea leaves in an earthenware pot, symbolizing the hardships and struggles that everyone faces at the beginning of their journey. The second tea is brewed with walnuts, rock sugar, and milk, creating a creamy, sweet flavor, symbolizing the rewards of hard work—happiness, love, and the sweetness of life. The final tea is the most complex, made with honey, Sichuan peppercorns, and cinnamon, creating a mix of spicy, numbing, sweet, and bitter flavors, symbolizing life’s wisdom and reflections.

大理曾是茶马古道上的重要一站,商人们在这里与西藏和印度进行普洱茶和丝绸贸易。三道茶是大理白族人民独特而具有深刻象征意义的传统。它不仅仅是一种饮茶仪式,还体现了人生哲学,教导人们必须经历苦涩、甜蜜和反思—茶道就像人生旅途一样。第一道茶味道浓烈,苦涩,用当地烤茶在陶罐中冲泡而成,象征着每个人在旅途开始时所面临的艰辛和挣扎。第二道茶用核桃、冰糖和牛奶冲泡而成,呈现出奶油般甜美的味道,象征着辛勤工作的回报以及幸福、爱情和生活的甜蜜。最后一道茶是最复杂的,用蜂蜜、花椒和肉桂制成,创造出辛辣、麻、甜和苦的混合味道,象征着人生的智慧和对生活的反思。

This is the relic of Taihe City which is the first capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom. During the Tang Dynasty, a powerful Bai leader named Piluo Ge united the tribes of Bai ethnic groups and established the Nanzhao Kingdom, choosing Taihe as its first capital. This marked the beginning of a golden age for the region, as Nanzhao developed into a formidable kingdom that engaged in trade. In the 750 AD, the Tang Dynasty launched a massive military campaign against Nanzhao, aiming to reassert Chinese control over Yunnan. The Tang army, led by the general Xianyu Zhongtong marched toward Taihe City. The harsh conditions, combined with Nanzhao’s effective tactics, led to heavy Tang casualties. After this battle, Nanzhao emerged as a fully independent kingdom, no longer under Tang influence.

这是太和城的遗址,太和城是南诏国的第一个都城。唐朝时期,一位名叫皮罗阁的强大白族领袖统一了白族部落,建立了南诏国,并选择太和作为其第一个都城。这也标志着该地区黄金时代的开始,南诏发展成为一个从事贸易的强大王国。公元750年,为了重新确立中国对云南的控制,唐朝对南诏发动了大规模的军事行动。由剑南节度使鲜于仲通率领的唐军向太和城进军。恶劣的自然条件加上南诏的有效战术,导致唐军伤亡惨重。此战之后,南诏成为一个完全独立的王国,不再受唐朝的制约。

Nanzhao Dehua Stele

The Nanzhao Dehua Stele is one of the most significant historical inscriptions in the Taihe city. It is 3.3 meters tall and 1 meter wide, featuring over 3,000 Chinese characters inscribed on a stone slab. The stele traces the history of the Bai people and the founding of the Nanzhao Kingdom. It emphasizes the divine right of Nanzhao’s rulers and their contributions to the stability of the region. It acknowledges the past conflicts between Nanzhao and the Tang but portrays Nanzhao as a loyal vassal state. The wording of the stele presents Nanzhao as a civilized and benevolent kingdom rather than a rebellious power. This reflects the political strategy of King Shilong, who sought to maintain diplomatic ties with the Tang while solidifying Nanzhao’s regional dominance.

南诏德化碑是太和城中最重要的历史碑文。碑高3.3米,宽1米,石板上刻有3,000多个汉字。碑文追溯了白族的历史和南诏王国的建立。它强调了南诏统治者的神圣权利及其对该地区稳定的贡献。它承认了南诏与唐朝之间的过去冲突,但将南诏描绘成一个对大唐忠诚的藩属国。碑文将南诏塑造成一个文明仁慈的王国,而不是一个叛逆的军事强国。这反映了世隆国王的政治策略,他寻求与唐朝保持积极的外交关系,同时巩固了南诏在该地区的优势地位。

Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple

Outside the city, the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple, built over 1,000 years ago, stand as enduring symbols of Dali’s Buddhist heritage. When I was young, I enjoyed reading the martial arts novel written by Mr Jin Yong. In the novel Tianlong Babu, the Three Pagodas are not only a historical landmark but also a place of martial arts encounters. Dali is portrayed as a Buddhist kingdom, where the ruling Duan family possess the Six Meridians Divine Sword (六脉神剑), an extreme powerful martial art based on internal Buddhist energy. This martial art allows the user to project sword-like energy from their fingertips, capable of slicing through metal and stone. The script of this martial art is said to be stored in this temple. That is why I was so excited to visit it.

城外的崇圣寺三塔建于一千多年前,是大理佛教文化遗产的象征。年幼时特别喜欢拜读金庸先生的武侠作品。在小说《天龙八部》中,崇圣寺三塔(小说里为天龙寺)不仅是历史地标,也是武林风云际会之地。大理被描述为一个佛教王国,统治者段氏家族世代拥有六脉神剑,这是一门基于佛教内功的极其强大的武艺。这门武术的使用者从指尖发射出类似剑芒的能量,能够切金断石。据说这门武功的原本就存放在这座寺庙里。这也是我对这个景点特别神往的原因。

The Three Pagodas were built during the Nanzhao Kingdom as part of Chongsheng Temple, which was once the royal Buddhist temple of Dali. Despite earthquakes and wars, the Three Pagodas have stood for over 1,000 years, making them one of the most durable ancient structures in China. The Three Pagodas are arranged in a triangular formation. The central tower called Qianxun Pagoda is similar to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda in Xi’an. It is made of bricks covered in white mud, giving it a bright, elegant appearance against the green Cangshan Mountain.

三塔始建于南诏国时期,是崇圣寺的一部分,崇圣寺曾是大理的皇家寺庙。尽管经历了地震和战乱,三塔仍然屹立了一千多年,是中国最坚固的古代建筑之一。三塔呈三角形排列。中央塔称为千寻塔,与西安的大雁塔相似。它由砖块砌成,表面覆盖着白泥,在苍山翠绿的映衬下显得明亮优雅。

The two side towers were built about 100 years after Qianxun Pagoda. Unlike the main pagoda, these two have an octagonal shape and Bai ethnic architectural influences. They are slightly tilted due to centuries of natural shifting.

两座侧塔建于千寻塔之后约 一百年,与主塔不同,侧塔为八角形,具有白族建筑风格,因历经数个世纪的自然移动而略有倾斜。

Inside the pagodas, archaeologists have discovered Buddhist scriptures, statues, and relics, revealing the deep spiritual connection between Dali and Buddhism. Ancient Bai people believed that dragons and evil spirits caused floods, so the pagodas were built to suppress them. Despite multiple earthquakes in Dali, the pagodas have survived, strengthening their reputation as a divine guardian of the region.

考古学家在宝塔内发现了佛经、雕像和古迹,揭示了大理与佛教之间深厚的联系。古代白族人认为龙和恶灵会引起洪水,因此建造了宝塔来镇压洪水。尽管大理多次发生地震,但宝塔仍然完好无损,这进一步巩固了它们作为该地区守护神的地位。

From the Three Pagodas, the view of green Cangshan Mountain immersed in a sea of clouds is a sight of breathtaking beauty. Standing tall in the distance, Cangshan’s emerald-green peaks rise above the mist, their rugged slopes veiled in layers of shifting clouds. The mist rolls like gentle ocean waves. The scene is one of serene grandeur, where nature and history blend seamlessly. When I gazed at the mountains shrouded by clouds, I could not stop to have a sense of awe.

从三塔望去,苍山云海掩映,景色美得令人窒息。远处翠绿的山峰耸立在云雾中,崎岖的山坡被层层云雾笼罩。雾气翻滚,犹如温柔的海浪。这里的景色宁静而壮丽,自然与历史完美融合。当我凝视着云雾笼罩的群山时,我不禁心生敬畏。

Cangshan Mountain

The beautiful Cangshan must be another icon of this city. I can observe its grand and extended silhouette in every corner of Dali. Under the vast azure sky, it stands like a majestic guardian, draped in a robe of emerald green. Looking up, the sky is a boundless canvas of brilliant blue, where fluffy clouds drift lazily. The scene is a portrait of pure serenity and romance painted by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, as if nature itself has woven a love story between the sky and the mountains, where every leaf and every gust of wind sings a tender ballad of eternal beauty.

美丽的苍山一定是这座城市的又一个地标。我甚至可以在大理的每一个角落看到它雄伟而绵延的轮廓。在蔚蓝的天空下,苍山像一位威严的守护者一样屹立着,身披翠绿色的长袍。抬头望去,天空宛如一幅无边无际的湛蓝画布,蓬松的云朵懒洋洋地飘浮在天空中。这幅景象就如同雷诺阿笔下一幅纯粹宁静而浪漫的画作,仿佛大自然本身在天空和群山之间编织了一个爱情故事,每一片树叶和每一阵风都在吟唱一首永恒的温柔歌谣。

At the foot of Cangshan Mountain, white-walled, blue-tiled Bai-style houses stand in harmony with the surrounding lush greenery. Winding stone paths lead through the ancient villages, shaded by ancient camphor trees, their leaves whispering softly in the wind. Crystal-clear streams, fed by Cangshan’s pure mountain springs, weave through the fields, nourishing rice paddies and tea plantations. I aimlessly walked through the small trek and smelled the aroma of soil and experienced the tranquility of rural life.

苍山脚下,白墙青瓦的白族民居与周围郁郁葱葱的绿植相映成趣。蜿蜒的石板路穿过古老的村落,古樟树成荫,树叶在风中轻轻摇曳。清澈的溪水由苍山纯净的山泉滋润,蜿蜒流过原野,滋润着一片片稻田和茶园。我惬意般穿过一条条小径,泥土的芳香入木三分,乡村生活的宁静是如此美好。

Longkan Wharf

At the end of the villages, the Longkan Wharf is a serene and picturesque spot on the western shore of Erhai Lake, just a short distance from Dali Ancient City. It is one of the best places to experience the tranquil beauty of Erhai.

龙龛码头位于村落尽头,是洱海西岸一处宁静而风景如画的地方,距离大理古城不远。它是体验洱海宁静之美的最佳地点之一。

At Longkan Wharf, the crystal-clear waters of Erhai Lake stretch out endlessly, mirroring the blue sky and drifting clouds. Traditional Bai-style pavilions and arched stone walkways extend gracefully over the water, offering spots to sit and watch the gentle ripples, white egrets gliding across the lake. Here, many couples wore wedding dress to take perfect photos representing their eternal loves.

龙龛码头清澈见底的湖水一望无际,映照着蓝天和飘浮的云朵。传统的白族风格亭台楼阁和拱形石道优雅地延伸在水面上,人们可以坐下来欣赏湖面的涟漪和白鹭在湖面上滑翔。这里众多情侣身着婚纱拍摄代表他们永恒爱情的完美照片。

Shuanglang old town

It is recommended to spend one day in this old town Shuanglang if visitors spent multiple days in Dali. Known as the “Pearl of Erhai,” this ancient lakeside village is a blend of Bai ethnic charm, and stunning water landscapes, making it one of the most romantic destinations in Dali. It was my last stop in Dali.

如果游客在大理逗留多日,建议在双廊古镇停留一天。这座古老的湖畔村庄被誉为“洱海明珠”,融合了白族风情和迷人的水景,勘察大理最浪漫的目的地。这也是我在大理的最后一站。

I took the local bus towards the Shuanglang old town which is quite far from the city area of Dali. The scenery on the way reminded me of one Chinese poem ‘ 绿树村边合,青山郭外斜’. It combined a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural charm. Faraway, a small and traditional village nestled against the backdrop of rolling and green hills. The lush and dense greenery of the trees stretched along the edges of the village, their dense leaves shimmering in the sunlight, creating a green canopy.

我乘坐当地巴士前往距离大理市区较远的双廊古镇。沿途的风景让我想起了一句古诗“绿树村边合,青山郭外斜”。这句诗结合了自然之美和文化魅力。远处一个个小而传统的村庄坐落在连绵起伏的绿色山脊中。郁郁葱葱的树木沿着村庄的边缘延伸,茂密的树叶在阳光下闪闪发光,形成一片翠绿的伞盖。

Shuanglang is blessed with breathtaking views of Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain. The town’s white-walled, blue-roofed Bai-style houses line the waterfront, their reflections shimmering on the lake’s surface. Small stone alleys wind through the town, leading to hidden courtyards and tea houses. I enjoyed the atmosphere here. It is really a wonderful place where time slows down, and beauty lingers in every breeze.

双廊镇坐拥洱海和苍山的壮丽美景。小镇的白墙蓝顶房屋排列在湖边,倒映在湖面上,熠熠生辉。小石巷蜿蜒穿过小镇,通往静谧的私家庭院和茶馆。这里令人陶醉的氛围实在折煞人也,时间在这里仿佛被定格,微风吹拂,美景萦绕心头。

The feeling in Dali especially alongside Erhai was really magnificent and unparalleled. Like Manarola, it was a dreamy escape where the sound of waves, the scent of blooming flowers, and the slow rhythm of village life create an atmosphere of romance and nostalgia. Whether I was watching the sunrise from a lakeside pavilion, exploring the charming alleys, or simply soaking in the peaceful elegance of Erhai, Dali is definitely a place that lingers in the heart long after I left.

大理,尤其是沉浸于洱海之侧的感觉真是无与伦比,千言万语难以形容。如同马纳若拉一样,这是一个梦幻般的度假胜地,海浪涛声、盛开的鲜花和乡村生活的缓慢节奏营造出别样的浪漫而怀旧的氛围。无论是在湖边凉亭看日出,探索迷人的小巷,还是全身心沉浸在洱海的宁静优雅中,大理绝对是离别后仍久久萦绕在我心中的完美旅游地!

The Geological Wonders of the Stone Forest

喀斯特地址奇迹石林

The Stone Forest, located in Yunnan Province, is a breathtaking natural wonder renowned for its towering limestone formations that resemble a vast forest made of stone. Formed over 270 million years ago through erosion and geological activity, this UNESCO World Heritage site is rich in history and culture. The local Sani people, a branch of the Yi ethnic group, add to the forest’s allure with interesting folklore. Exploring labyrinth-like pathways and dramatic rock pillars was really an extraordinary experience for every traveler.

云南省的石林是一个令人惊叹的自然奇观,以其高耸的石灰石地层而闻名。这些大量的石灰岩类似于一片巨大的石制森林。这处世界自然遗产因水土侵蚀和地质活动形成于2.7亿多年前,拥有丰富的历史和文化价值。当地的撒尼人是彝族的一个分支,他们有趣的民间传说为这片区域增添了别样的魅力。探索迷宫般的小径和穿行于独特的石柱间对每位旅行者来说都是一次非凡的体验。

The Stone Forest was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007 because of its outstanding geological significance and unique karst landscape. It’s one of the world’s best examples of karst formations with limestone pillars shaped by millions of years of erosion and tectonic activity. The site is part of the South China karst, a vast region recognized for its exceptional biodiversity, intricate cave systems, underground rivers, and limestone features.

石林因其突出的地质和独特的喀斯特地貌于2007年被列为联合国教科文组织列入世界自然遗产。它是世界上绝佳的喀斯特地貌,其石灰岩柱经过数百万年的侵蚀和地质运动而形成。石林也是华南喀斯特地貌的一部分,这一广阔地区以其非凡的生物多样性、错综复杂的洞穴系统、地下河流和钟乳石灰岩特征而闻名。

I visited this famous scenic point on May 19th, 2024, during my summer trip in Yun Nan. Upon arrival of the entrance, I was attracted by the numerous stones of different forms. Despite its rugged, rocky landscape, the Stone Forest is home to a rich variety of plant life that thrives in the crevices and soil within the limestone formations. Begonias, bamboos, and Yunnan Pine can be seen in every corner of this park.

2024 年 5 月 19 日,我在云南的夏季旅行中参观了这个著名的景点。刚抵达入口,我便被各种形状的石头所吸引。尽管地势崎岖,岩石密布,但石林里也有丰富多样的植物,这些植物在石灰岩地层的缝隙和土壤中茁壮成长。在这个公园内的每个角落都可以看到秋海棠、竹子和云南松。

All visitors need to cross one bridge on the Shilin Karst Lake. It is a tranquil and elegant lake which still waters create a mesmerizing mirror effect, reflecting the limestone pillars that surround it. The lake is fringed with unique rock formations, some of which seem to rise directly out of the water like natural sculptures. There are some viewpoints allowing visitors to wander along the shore, offering peaceful spots to rest.

所有游客都需要穿过石林湖上的一座桥抵达景区。这是一个安静而优雅的湖泊,平静的水面呈现出迷人的镜面效果,倒映着周围的石灰岩柱。湖边两岸布满了独特的岩层,它们从水面中升起,如同浑然天成的雕塑一样。湖畔有些观景点可供游客沿着湖岸漫步,提供安静的休息地点供游客享受慢生活。

During the Permian Period, the area that is now the Stone Forest was covered by a shallow tropical sea.
Over millions of years, marine organisms like corals, shellfish, and algae thrived in this environment, leaving behind thick layers of limestone as they died and accumulated on the seabed. Due to tectonic movements, the seabed gradually rose above sea level, exposing the limestone deposits to air.

在二叠纪时期,现在的石林地区被浅浅的热带海洋覆盖。数百万年来,珊瑚、贝类和藻类等海洋生物在这种环境中繁衍生息,它们死亡后堆积在海底,留下厚厚的石灰岩层。由于地壳运动,海床逐渐上升到海平面以上,石灰岩沉积物暴露在空气中。

Karst landscapes are formed through a process of erosion, where soluble rocks, like limestone are gradually dissolved by water over long periods of time. The presence of soluble limestone is made primarily of calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Rainwater is slightly acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide and forms carbonic acid (H2CO3), which chemically erode the rock. Over time, the acidity of rainwater or groundwater slowly reacts with the calcium carbonate, creating small cracks in the rock. Over long periods of time, the Karst landscape can evolve into a complex system of geological features, including limestone plateaus, sharp peaks, isolated columns, and underground caverns.

喀斯特地貌是通过可溶性岩石(如石灰岩)在很长一段时间内逐渐被水溶解而侵蚀的漫长过程形成的。可溶性石灰岩的主要成分是碳酸钙 (CaCO3)。由于雨水溶解了二氧化碳产生碳酸 (H2CO3)导致雨水呈弱酸性,从而对岩石进行化学侵蚀。随着时间的推移,雨水或地下水中的酸会慢慢和碳酸钙反应,在岩石上形成小裂缝。经过漫长的时间,喀斯特地貌可以演变成一个包括石灰岩高原、尖峰、封闭的立柱群和地下洞穴等复杂的地质特征系统。

Many huge stones are composed of various layers of limestone, which have eroded over millions of years. This erosion has created unique shapes and textures, from sharp edges to smoother, rounded forms. The intricate patterns on the stone surfaces resemble layers of barky and natural folds, and some wrinkles. At times, I felt like an explorer uncovering hidden treasures, each new path revealing a different formation that sparked my imagination—some stones looked like a giant’s face, while others resembled delicate spires rising toward the sky.

许多巨型石头由多层石灰岩组成,经过数百万年的侵蚀形成了独特的形状和从锋利的边缘到更光滑的圆形纹理。石头表面的复杂图案类似于树皮般的皱纹和自然褶皱。我甚至感觉自己就像一个探索宝藏的探险家,石林的每条新路径都导向不同构造的石头,激发出我的想象力。这里有些石头看起来像巨人的脸,而另一些则像尖顶直指苍穹。

Between the stone columns, there are small gaps, crevices, and caves, some of which visitors can explore. These openings form narrow passageways and hidden corners, creating a sense of mystery and discovery. Visitors can rest on the stone stools for a while when they felt tired. Over a long time, moss, lichen, and other small plants have grown on the stones, adding a touch of green to the monotonous grey and brown landscape.

石柱之间,有裂缝、洞穴,可供游客探索。这些开口形成狭窄的通道和隐蔽的角落,营造出一种神秘的感觉,勾起游客的探索欲。游客走累了,也可以在石凳上休息一会儿。随着时间的流逝,光秃秃的石头上长出了苔藓、地衣和其他小植物,为整体单调的灰褐色的景观增添了一抹绿。

The Major Stone Forest is the main and most famous scenic point, attracting numerous visitors. It is a labyrinth of jagged rock formations, shaped over millions of years by the forces of wind and water. The limestone pillars, some towering as high as 30 meters, stretch in all directions, creating a dense, maze-like environment where it’s easy to lose yourself in the twists and turns of the landscape.

大石林是这里最主要著名的景点,吸引了众多游客。这里是一座由锯齿状岩层组成的迷宫,经过数百万年的风力和水力作用而形成。石灰岩柱向四面八方延伸,有些高达30米,形成了一个密集的迷宫般的环境,游客很容易迷失在这曲折回绕的景观中。

The limestone spires are thin and elongated, resembling tall spikes. These formations reach upward, as though they are trying to touch the sky. Walking through these sections feels like wandering through a vast, jagged city of stone, with towering buildings rising up from the ground on all sides. The stone pathways can be uneven and rocky, so it’s important to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes for walking.

石灰岩尖顶又细又长,形似高耸的尖刺。这些岩层向上延伸,仿佛要触及天空。穿过这些区域,感觉就像漫步在一座巨大而崎岖的石头城中,四周都是在地面上平地而起的高耸建筑。这些石路不平坦且多石,因此穿着结实舒适的鞋子特别重要。

Narrow paths wind through the stone pillars, leading visitors on a journey of discovery. These winding routes allow me to get up close to the stones and appreciate their unique shapes and textures closely. Stone steps leading up to the top of stones, are worn smooth by countless visitors. I liked to think deeply during my trip. Walking through these paths in the labyrinth made me think the meaning of life. Our life is like a labyrinth and we are always looking for the exit which path is the journey of our life.

狭窄的小路蜿蜒穿过石柱,引领游客踏上探索之旅。这些蜿蜒的小路让我可以近距离接触这些巨石,近距离欣赏它们独特的形状和纹理。通往石柱顶部的石阶早已被无数游客磨得光滑。我喜欢在旅途中深入思考。走在迷宫般的小路上,不由地令我思考起人生的意义。其实我们的生活就像一座迷宫,我们总是在寻找出口,而寻找出口这条路就是我们人生的旅程。

Sword Peak Pool is a beautiful, tranquil spot known for its stunning natural scenery and crystal-clear waters. The name refers to the shape of the surrounding peaks that resemble the sharp edge of a sword. It reflects the surrounding stone peaks, creating a picturesque view. It is a result of millions of years of natural erosion and geological processes.

剑峰池是一个美丽而宁静的地方,以其令人惊叹的自然风光和清澈的池水而闻名。剑峰潭因周围山峰的形状类似锋利的出鞘剑锋而得名。它倒映着周围的石峰,形成了如画的风景。这里也是数百万年的自然侵蚀和地质运动的结果。

The Stone Forest is interspersed with various smaller pools and streams that dot the landscape, each with its own charm. Some of these are tucked into crevices between rocks, while others sit in open clearings. I really marveled at these stone erected in the water, which silently create an almost fortress-like setting, giving the pond a hidden and mystical feel. It looks like an isolated environment far away from the mundane world.

石林中散布着各种较小的水塘和溪流,点缀着整个景观,每个都有自己的魅力。其中一些溪流隐藏在岩石之间的缝隙中,而另一些水塘则坐落在开阔地上。这些屹立在水中的石头令人浮想联翩,它们默默的创造出一种如同堡垒一样的环境,蕴涵一丝若隐若现的神秘感。看起来就像一个远离世俗世界的独立环境。

The whole park of stone forest is super large, and most visitors only have time to visit the Major and Minor Stone Forest within one day. The Minor Stone Forest consists of a smaller yet equally intricate collection of karst limestone formations. Unlike the towering 30-meter pillars of the Major Stone Forest, the rock formations here are relatively shorter and more clustered together.

整个石林公园非常大,大多数游客一天只能游览完大石林和小石林两个景区。小石林由较小但同样复杂的喀斯特石灰岩构成。与大石林高达30米的石柱不同,这里的岩层相对较矮小且更密集。

Unlike the more crowded Major Stone Forest, this area is quieter and less touristy, making it an ideal spot for visitors who prefer a more serene experience. The stones here are weathered into unusual shapes, resembling animals and mythical creatures, sparking the imagination of visitors. Every jagged rock peak with smooth, eroded surfaces tells a story of millions of years of natural sculpting. The scenes in this area have more greeneries and look more spacious and poetic.

与人潮涌动的大石林不同,这一带比较安静,人烟稀少,是喜欢静谧体验的游客的理想之地。这里的石头被风化成奇形怪状,形似动物和神话中的生物,充分发挥游人的想象力。每一块锯齿状的岩石山峰,表面光滑,记述着数百万年大自然的鬼斧神工。这一带的景色更加绿意盎然,看起来宽广辽阔、富有诗情画意。

The Minor Stone Forest is deeply connected to the Yi ethnic group, particularly the Sani people. This area is associated with local myths and legends, and some rocks are believed to be sacred, linked to ancient spirits and ancestors. Perhaps the most iconic rock is this stone which resembles a young woman in traditional Yi dress. According to local legend, it represents Ashima, a young and beautiful girl who fell in love with a man named Ahei, but their love was forbidden by Ashima’s family, who had arranged for her to marry a wealthier suitor. Desperate to be together, Ashima and Ahei fled and looked for their love. In the legend, Ashima was tragically turned into stone by the gods as a symbol of her devotion and sacrifice. Nowadays, the stone is a symbol of eternal love and unwavering faith which is rare in our society with fast rhythm.

小石林与彝族的撒尼人有着深厚的渊源。该地区与当地的神话传说息息相关,有些岩石被认为是神圣的,并与古老的神灵和祖先有关。也许最具代表性的岩石就是图中这块石头,它形似一位身着传统彝族服饰的年轻女子。根据当地传说,它象征着年轻貌美的女孩阿诗玛。她爱上了一个名叫阿海的男人,但他们的爱情遭到了阿诗玛家人的反对,他们安排她嫁给一个更富有的追求者。阿诗玛渴望和阿海在一起,于是两人私奔追寻他们的爱情。在传说中,阿诗玛被众神悲惨地变成了石头,作为她忠诚和对爱情牺牲的象征。如今,这块石头象征着永恒的爱情和坚定不移的信念,这种纯洁的爱情在我们这个快节奏的社会中已然不复存在。

The trip in the stone forest needs half days’ time. As the sun set and ligntened the towering limestone spires of the Stone Forest, it’s hard not to feel a sense of awe and wonder. It was indeed a wonderful place where the natural world and ancient myths came together. When I was on the way of leaving the park, I took with me more than just memories of the stunning landscape — also carried the echoes of legendary sad love stories touching my heart.

石林之旅共需要大半天时间。当太阳落山余晖照耀在石林高耸的石灰岩尖顶之际,我很难不感到敬畏和惊叹。这里确实是自然世界和古老神话交汇的奇妙之地。当我依依惜别时,随我心而去的不仅仅是对壮丽景观的回忆还有触动心弦的悲伤爱情故事的回响。

Discovering the Beauty of the City of Eternal Spring

寻觅春城之美

Nestled in the heart of Yunnan Province, Kunming is a city where spring never fades away. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring” for its mild climate and blooming flowers year-round, this fascinating destination offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, rich history, and diverse culture. Beyond its scenic charm, Kunming is a gateway to Yunnan’s ethnic diversity, home to 26 ethnic minorities whose traditions and cuisine add a unique flavor to the city.

昆明位于云南省的中心,是一座春意常驻的城市。这个吸引无数游客的旅游地因其温暖的气候和全年盛开的鲜花而被赞为“永恒的春城”,它完美融合了自然美景、丰富的历史和多元文化。除了风景魅力之外,昆明还是领略云南民族多样性文化的门户,这里是 26 个少数民族的家园,各式各样的文化传统和美食为这座城市增添了独特的风味。

I arrived at the Kunming airport in the morning of 15th May 2024 and started my summer holiday in Yunnan province. Upon arrival, this skeleton of dinosaur displayed at the arrival hall drew my attention immediately. Yunnan is one of the richest places in China for dinosaur fossils. During the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, Yunnan had a warm, humid climate with vast lakes, rivers, and lush vegetation. This environment provided an ideal habitat for dinosaurs to thrive. This is the model of skeleton of Lufengosaurus, one of China’s earliest known dinosaurs.

我于2024年5月15日上午抵达昆明机场,开始了我的云南之旅。机场到达大厅展示的这具恐龙骨架瞬间引起了我的注意。云南是中国恐龙化石最丰富的地方之一。侏罗纪和白垩纪时期,云南气候温暖湿润,湖泊河流广阔,植被茂盛。这种环境为恐龙的繁衍生息提供了理想的栖息地。图中这是中国已知最早的恐龙之一禄丰龙的骨骼模型。

This was one photo of street view taken on the way to the Dianchi lake. There is one Chinese poem verse’ 春城无处不飞花 ‘ which means ‘Blossoms drift in every corner of the Spring City’ . It could best describe how Kunming’ street looks like. Kunming’s streets in spring and summer are a breathtaking sight, where blossoms cascade like pink falls, painting the city in soft and romantic hues. Lush trees, heavy with bougainvillea and jacarandas, line the sidewalks, their petals swirling gently in the breeze. When the wind stirs, a shower of petals flutters down, covering the ground in a delicate floral carpet.

这是去滇池途中拍的一张街景照片。中国有一首诗春城无处不飞花最能形容昆明的寻常巷末。春夏天的昆明街道景色令人叹为观止,鲜花如粉红色的瀑布般倾泻而下,为这座城市涂上了柔和浪漫的色调。人行道两旁种满了茂密的九重葛和蓝花楹树,花瓣在微风中轻轻旋转飞舞。微风掠过,花瓣纷纷飘落,为地面铺上一层精致的花毯。

Located on the northeastern shore of Dianchi Lake, Haigeng Park is one of Kunming’s most beautiful natural spots, offering stunning lake views, lush greenery, and a peaceful retreat from the city’s bustle. Often called “the lakeside garden of Kunming”, this park is famous for its willow-lined walkways, golden sunsets, and flocks of migratory seagulls in winter.

海埂公园位于滇池东北岸,是昆明最美丽的自然景点,这里拥有令人叹为观止的湖景、郁郁葱葱的绿色植物以及远离城市喧嚣的宁静休憩之所。这里堪称昆明市的湖畔花园,以其柳荫步道、金色夕阳和冬季成群的候鸟海鸥而闻名于世。

Dianchi Lake

The park stretches along the edge of Dianchi Lake. Walking along its banks, visitors can enjoy reflections of the Western Hills lying beside the water. Dianchi Lake, often called the “Pearl of the Plateau”, is the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan Province. It is the most representative scene spot in Kunming. Huge amounts of visitors came here to take a perfect photo beside the lake. The deep blue of Dianchi Lake contrasts beautifully with the emerald green of Western Hills. Gentle waves ripple under the light breeze, and migratory seagulls soar between the lake and the hills. This is the most memorable memory in my trip of Kun Ming.

公园沿着滇池的边缘延伸。沿着河岸行走,游客满眼皆是映在水边的西山倒影。滇池,素有“高原明珠”之称,是云南省最大的淡水湖,也是昆明最具代表性的景点。大批游客慕名而来,在湖边拍下心目中完美的照片。滇池水的深蓝色与西山的翠绿相映成趣。微风徐徐,波光粼粼,海鸥在湖光山色间翱翔。这也是我此次昆明之行最难忘的回忆。

Shaded paths lined with weeping willows and vibrant flowers make Haigeng Park an ideal place for a leisurely stroll, jogging, or cycling. The gentle swaying of willow branches over the water adds a poetic charm. Across the shimmering waters of Dianchi Lake, it is the Western Hill rising on the opposite shore, their green slopes gently rolling like the silhouette of an elegant sleeping beauty resting beneath the sky.

海埂公园绿树成荫的小道两旁垂柳茂盛,鲜花盛开,是休闲散步、慢跑或骑自行车的理想场所。水面上柳枝轻轻摇曳,增添诗情画意。隔着波光粼粼的滇池湖水,对岸就是拔地而起的西山,翠绿的山坡轻柔起伏,如同一位在天空下小憩的优雅睡美人的剪影。

Yunnan Military Academy

Kun Ming is an ancient city full of history. I stayed here for three days. In the first day afternoon, I visited the Yunnan Military Academy which was one of China’s most prestigious military institutions during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. Founded in 1909, the academy played a crucial role in shaping modern Chinese military history, producing many influential military leaders who contributed to key historical events, including the Xinhai Revolution (1911), the War of Resistance Against Japan (1937-1945), and the Chinese Civil War.

昆明是一座充满历史的古城。我在这里总共待了三天。游玩的第一天下午,我参观了云南讲武堂,它是清末民初中国最负盛名的军事院校。该学院成立于1909年,在塑造中国现代军事史方面发挥了至关重要的作用,培养了许多有影响力的军事领导人,这些人物在辛亥革命、抗日战争和国共内战等重大历史事件中产生了重大影响。

Often referred to as the “Cradle of Generals”, the academy trained thousands of officers, including notable figures like Zhu De and Ye Jianying. This is the training ground of soldiers in the history. Today, the Yunnan Military Academy Museum preserves its rich history. The well-preserved European-style architecture, along with exhibitions of historical documents, weapons, and uniforms, offers visitors a glimpse into the military evolution of contemporary China.

讲武堂被称为“将军的摇篮”,培养了数千名军官,其中包括朱德和叶剑英等著名人物。图中这里是历史上士兵的训练场。如今,这座博物馆保留了讲武堂丰富的历史以及保存完好的欧式建筑,众多历史文献、武器和制服的展览也让游客可以一睹中国近代军事史的演变。

Opposite to the Yunnan Military Academy, it is the Cui Lake which is one of Kunming’s most beautiful and historic parks. Often called the “Jade of Kunming”, this scenic lake is famous for its lush willow trees, lotus-covered waters, and flocks of migratory red-beaked seagulls in winter. Originally part of Dianchi Lake, Cui Lake was formed over centuries as water levels receded, leaving behind a collection of smaller interconnected lakes and ponds. During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, it became a favored spot for scholars and poets, who often gathered here for inspiration. In the Qing Dynasty, Cui Lake was expanded and developed into a formal park with pavilions and gardens, further enhancing its beauty.

讲武堂对面就是翠湖,是昆明最美最具历史意义的公园。这个风景秀丽的湖泊被称为“昆明的翡翠”,以其郁郁葱葱的柳树、荷花覆盖的水域和冬季成群迁徙的红嘴海鸥而闻名。翠湖最初是滇池的一部分,几个世纪以来随着水位下降而留下了一系列较小的相互连接的湖泊和池塘。元明时期,这里成为文人墨客的胜地,时常聚集于此,汲取灵感。清代,翠湖得到扩建,发展为亭台楼阁花园点缀的公园。

Stepping into Cui Lake Park, I was greeted by a scene of serene beauty. The emerald-green waters of the lake gently rippled under the breeze, reflecting the swaying weeping willows that line its banks. Their delicate branches trailed over the water, forming a natural curtain that dances with the wind. As I strolled along the stone bridges and wooden pavilions, I could find traditional bonsai trees and flowering plants arranged in elegant pots, showcasing the artistry of Chinese gardening. The cozy air was filled with the light fragrance of camellias and azaleas.

步入翠湖公园,映入我眼帘的是一幅宁静美丽的景象。翠绿的湖水在微风的吹拂下轻轻荡漾,倒映着岸边摇曳的垂柳。它们纤细的枝条拖曳在水面上,形成一道随风舞动的天然帷幕。漫步在石桥、木亭之间,传统的盆景和花卉植物优雅地摆放在盆中,展现了中国传统的园林艺术。宜人舒适的空气中弥漫着山茶花和杜鹃花的淡淡清香。

The gardens surrounding Cui Lake are not only famous for their serene landscapes and willow-lined pathways, but also for their exquisite traditional potted plants. These miniature landscapes, meticulously cultivated by skilled gardeners, reflect the elegance of Chinese horticulture and Kunming’s mild, spring-like climate that allows a rich variety of plant species to thrive. Lucky Bamboo is arranged in artistic formations, with intricate rock carvings, symbolizing peace, harmony, and prosperity.

翠湖周围的花园不仅以其宁静的风景和柳荫小径而闻名,其精美的传统盆栽也是一大特色。这些微缩景观由技艺高超的园丁精心打理,体现了中国园艺的优雅。丰富的植物物种在这里得以繁衍生息这也体现了昆明温和如春的气候。盆栽里的富贵竹排列整齐,石刻雕刻精美,也象征着平安和繁荣昌盛。

In summer, lotus flowers bloom across the lake’s surface, their pink and yellow petals contrasting against the deep green leaves. I took this poetic photo with super macro lens. This kind of lotus is called Nelumbo lutea, also known as the American Yellow Lotus. It is a rare species of lotus with soft pale-yellow petals. In the quiet after the rain, dragonflies hover above the water. A light breeze stirs the willow trees along the shore, sending tiny ripples across the lake. The lotus remains a symbol of purity and resilience, standing gracefully in the water.

夏季湖面上盛开着荷花,粉色和黄色的花瓣与深绿色的叶子形成鲜明对比。我用超微距镜头拍下了这张富有诗意的照片。这种荷花又名美国黄荷。它是一种稀有的莲花,花瓣柔软,呈淡黄色。雨后的寂静中,蜻蜓在水面上盘旋。微风吹拂岸边的柳树,湖面上泛起阵阵涟漪。莲花优雅地矗立在水中,是纯洁和坚韧的象征。

The birds hopped and fluttered across the park, pecking at the crumbs scattered by visitors. Some sat serenely beneath the willows, ruffling their feathers as they relaxed in the warmth of the sun. Their soft and rhythmic calls blended with the sounds of rustling leaves. There was a quiet beauty in watching the birds cozily eating together, as they were savoring the simple pleasures of life.

鸟儿在公园里跳跃飞舞,啄食着游客散落的面包屑。它们安静地栖息柳下,在温暖的阳光下梳理羽毛享受鸟生。轻柔而有节奏的叫声与树叶沙沙作响的声音交织在一起。目睹鸟儿们舒适地一起进食,享受着生活中简单的乐趣,有一种自然平和的美感。

When I walked through the street of Kunming, I passed several ancient buildings which were not tourist sites but having some historic meaning. The Confucious temple was originally built during the Yuan Dynasty and later expanded in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The Lingxing Gate serves as the grand entrance to the Confucius Temple, embodying both spiritual significance and architectural beauty. As the first structure one encounters when approaching the temple, this ornate gate symbolizes respect for knowledge, wisdom, and Confucian ideals. Lingxing originates from ancient Chinese astronomy, referring to a mythical star believed to govern wisdom and intellect.

漫步在昆明的街道,我还经过了几座古老的建筑,它们虽然不是旅游景点,但具有一些历史意义。昆明文庙始建于元代,后来在明清时期进行了扩建。图中的棂星门是文庙的大门,兼具精神意义和建筑美学。作为走近文庙的必经之路,这座大门象征着对知识智慧和儒家思想的尊重。棂星起源于中国古代天文学,指的是一颗掌管智慧和才智的星神。

Confucius Temple

Kunming’s Confucius Temple served as an important educational and ceremonial center, where scholars and students would gather to study Confucian classics and take imperial exams in the history. The temple reflects the deep respect for Confucianism, embodying principles of morality, discipline, and scholarly pursuit. Dacheng Hall in this photo is the main hall, dedicated to Confucius, features elegant wooden beams, golden inscriptions, and a solemn statue of the Confucius. Many girls studying in school came here to take beautiful photos wearing traditional Chinese clothes, characterized by wide sleeves, layered robes, crossed collars and delicate embroidery.

昆明孔庙是历史上重要的教育和礼仪中心,文人学子们聚集在这里研习儒家经典,参加科举考试。孔庙体现了对儒家思想的尊崇,以及对道德、纪律和学术追求的原则。照片中的大成殿是供奉孔子的正殿,有优雅的木梁、金色的碑文和庄严的孔子雕像。许多上学的女孩身着宽袖、多层长袍、交叉领和精致的刺绣为特点的汉服来这里拍摄美丽动人的照片。

This monument near a simple street is very small but it recorded the most miserable and sore history for Chinese. Usually, people will not notice it even if pass by. However, I visited it purposely and took this photo. Everyone who is familiar with Chinese history will feel a stabbing pain in the chest when visiting this monument.

图中的这个永历帝纪念碑位于一条简陋的街道旁,规模很小,却记载了汉人最悲惨痛苦的历史。通常游人即使路过也不会注意到它。然而我特意去参观并拍下了这张照片。每个熟悉中国历史的人看到这个纪念碑都会感到胸口一阵刺痛。

Three hundred years ago, the last Dynasty led by Chinese – Ming fell when the Manchu-led Qing Dynasty captured Beijing in 1644. However, remnants of the Ming loyalists like Zheng Chenggong, refusing to accept Qing rule, formed a series of Southern Ming governments across the south, with Zhu Youlang becoming one of the last claimants to the Ming throne. Finally, the military force of Qing pushed deep into Yunnan which was the last territory of Ming and the emperor Yongli was strangled with a bowstring near the Cui Lake, marking the end of the Ming imperial bloodline. This monument stands as a solemn reminder of the fall of the Ming Dynasty and the resistance against the Qing conquest in the 17th century. Afterwards, the whole China was under the control of Manchu until the revolution in 1911.

1644 年满族人建立的清朝攻占北京,历史上最后一个由汉人领导的王朝明朝悲惨灭亡。然而许多像郑成功这样的明朝死忠拒绝接受清朝统治,在南方建立了一系列南明政权,永历帝朱由榔成为明朝皇室的最后遗珠。后来清朝的军队深入南明最后的领土云南,永历皇帝在昆明翠湖附近被弓弦勒死,标志着明朝皇室血脉的终结。这座纪念碑如今仍然提醒游客明朝的灭亡和 17 世纪反清的斗争。至此后,直到 1911 年辛亥革命胜利, 整个中国一直处于满族的控制之下。

When I read this story, I felt a deep sorrow since Ming dynasty had controlled a larger piece of territory and how did they lose? I think that there are several reasons. Firstly, The Ming Dynasty had been facing serious internal problems by the early 17th century. Corruption, economic mismanagement, and factionalism of Donglin party weakened the central authority. Secondly, the Ming military was weakened seriously by inadequate funding since the central government could not collect enough tax from local authorities. Thirdly, the emperor Chongzhen was really a poor leader and could not believe candidly in his generals like Yuan Chonghuan and every prime ministers. Finally, the fall of the Ming was caused by a combination of internal decay, poor leadership, and external pressures. In contrast, the Qing were more unified, militarily superior, and able to rule the whole China.

以史为鉴可以知得失,这段历史着实令我感到深深的悲哀,明朝控制了如此大的一块领土,他们是如何最终失败的呢?我认为有几个原因。首先,在17世纪初,明朝已经面临严重的内部问题。腐败、经济管理不善和东林党的派系斗争削弱了中央权力。其次,由于中央政府无法从地方当局征收足够的税收,明朝军队的战斗力因资金不足而被严重削弱。第三,崇祯皇帝着实是一个糟糕的领导者,他一直不相信也不能坦诚对待他任命的大将,比如袁崇焕以及各位内阁首相。最后,在我看来明朝的覆灭是内部衰败、领导不力和外部压力共同造成的。相比之下,当时的清朝更加团结一心,军事上更强大,所以能够最终统治整个中国。

Of course it is important keep a better mood during travel. Afterwards I got rid of the bad memory immersed in the history three hundred years ago and continued my travel of second day in the old town of Guandu. The earliest historical records of Guandu date back to the Nanzhao kingdom. Guandu acted as a ferry and also a linking point in the region. I liked the paifang at the entrance. It could best represent the Chinese culture. The roof is curved with eaves that flare upwards and the columns of the paifang are adorned with detailed carvings, depicting dragons.

旅行中保持好心情当然是最重要,接下来我将沉浸在三百年前历史的伤痛回忆抛之脑后,继续第二天在官渡古镇的旅行。这个古镇最早的记载可以追溯到南诏国。官渡这个渡口是当时这个区域的集散地。我很喜欢入口处的牌坊,它最能代表中国的文化。牌坊顶呈弧形,檐向上张开,牌坊的柱子上装饰着精细的龙雕刻。

Miaozhan Temple

When I arrived at the town in the morning, this historic building of unique style drew my attention. The Vajra Pagoda at Miaozhan Temple is really a historically significant Buddhist structure. The Vajra meaning “diamond” is a sacred symbol in Buddhism, represents indestructible strength and spiritual power. The Vajra Pagoda is over 700 years old. Its construction reflects the fusion of Han Chinese and Indian Buddhist architectural styles, which is spread along the ancient Tea Horse Road. The layout of the pagoda includes its central tower surrounded by smaller stupas.

早上抵达小镇时,这座风格独特的历史建筑吸引了我的注意。妙瞻寺的金刚塔是一座颇具历史意义的佛教建筑。金刚是佛教中的神圣象征,代表着坚不可摧的力量和精神。金刚塔已有700多年历史。它的建造反映了汉族和印度佛教建筑风格的融合,这种风格在古老的茶马古道上广为流传。这座金刚塔的布局包括中央的大塔,以及周围环绕着较小的舍利塔。

Many restaurants in this old town sells the local delicacies and street food. Among them the most famous food must be Yunnan’s signature dish, crossing-the-bridge noodles.

古镇里有很多餐厅出售当地特色小吃。其中最著名的美食当属云南的招牌美食——过桥米线。

The dish’s poetic name comes from a heartwarming folk tale. Long ago, a scholar studied in seclusion on an island pavilion, preparing for the imperial exams. His wife brought him meals daily, but the food often turned cold by the time she crossed the bridge to reach him. One day, she discovered that boiling chicken fat could seal the heat of the broth. She carried the hot soup, noodles, and ingredients separately, assembling the dish on-site so her husband could enjoy a fresh, hot meal. Afterwards, the dish was called “Crossing-the-Bridge Noodles”, symbolizing love, dedication, and nourishment.’

这道菜的诗意名字来自一个温馨的民间故事。很久以前,一位书生在一座岛上的亭子里闭门读书,准备科举考试。他的妻子每天会给他送饭,但当她过了桥后,饭菜往往都已经凉了。有一天,她发现煮沸的鸡油可以封住汤的热度。于是她把热汤、面条和配料分开给丈夫带来,在当场把它们混合,这样她的丈夫就可以享用一顿热腾腾的饭菜了。后来,这道菜被称为“过桥米线”,它也象征着爱情和奉献。

The soul of the dish is the scalding broth, often made from chicken bones, pork bones, and ham, simmered for hours. Soft, silky rice noodles are served separately and added to the soup just before eating. A variety of ingredients like chicken, pork, fish, quail eggs, tofu skin, bean sprouts, spinach, Chinese chives, lettuce are served raw on small plates, ready to cook in the hot broth.

这道菜的灵魂在于滚烫的汤,汤头通常由鸡骨、猪骨和火腿熬制而成,再炖上几个小时。柔软丝滑的米粉单独上桌,食用前加入汤中。鸡肉、猪肉、鱼、鹌鹑蛋、豆腐皮、豆芽、菠菜、韭菜、生菜等各种食材都盛放在小盘子里,随时准备下入热汤中煮熟。

In the afternoon, I had a trek in the Western Hill Park. The park is a green paradise with dense forests, winding trails, and vivid wildflowers. This hill is not so tall. This kind of scenic paths made of wood wound through the forest, leading me to temples and caves uphill. It was a cloudy day, and the temperature is suitable for hike in the mountains.

下午,我选择在西山公园徒步。公园里是一片绿色天堂,森林茂密,小径蜿蜒曲折,野花盛开。这座山海拔并不高。这种用木头制成的观景小路蜿蜒穿过森林,引导我上山前往各处寺庙和洞穴。这一天是阴天,气温非常适合在山上徒步。

Taihua Temple

Travelers can choose to take bus or walk towards the top of hill. However, if they take bus, they will miss the beauties along the hill way. For me, I tried to discover every point on the way. The Taihua Temple founded in Yuan Dynasty in the photo is a tranquil Buddhist sanctuary. Surrounded by ancient trees, blooming flowers, and misty mountain air, Taihua Temple offers visitors a serene escape from the city’s bustle.

游客可以选择乘坐巴士或步行前往山顶。不过如果乘坐巴士,他们会错过山路沿途的美景。对我来说不会错过探索沿途的每一个景点。照片中建于元朝的太华寺是一座宁静的佛教圣地。太华寺周围环境古树环绕,鲜花盛开,山间空气迷蒙,为游客提供远离城市喧嚣的宁静之地。

Taihua Temple is famous for its beautiful courtyard gardens. Walking through the temple grounds feels like stepping into a living painting. Towering cypresses and pines, some over 600 years old, shade the stone pathways. Small pools with lotus flowers and koi fish add to the temple’s sense of tranquil harmony.

太华寺以其美丽的庭院花园而闻名。漫步在寺庙内,仿佛在观摩一幅生动的画作。院里高耸的柏松有些已有600多年的历史,为石板路遮荫。小水池里盛开着莲花,养着锦鲤,为寺庙增添了宁静和谐的气息。

I enjoyed the gentle rustle of leaves and chirping of birds. When I gazed at the lotus in the pond, my minds were scattered like the droplets of rain sprinkled on the leaves. My brain was filled by one famous Chinese poetry: 骤雨过,似琼珠乱撒,打遍新荷。人生百年有几,念良辰美景,休放虚过。It means: After the sudden rain, like scattered jade pearls, beating upon the fresh lotus leaves. In a fleeting life of a hundred years, how many such moments remain? Treasure these beautiful times — let them not slip away in vain.

我欣赏着树叶沙沙作响和鸟儿叽叽喳喳的声音。当我凝视着池塘里的荷花时,我的思绪像雨滴一样散落在叶子上。我的脑海里涌现出了一首元曲:骤雨过,似琼珠乱撒,打遍新荷。人生百年有几,念良辰美景,休放虚过。人生短暂百年,能有多少这样的瞬间?珍惜这些美好的时光,不要让它们白白逝去。

For me, travel is like a way of relaxation after tedious work. Treasure these beautiful moments on the way of travel and treasure what I have owned is so important.

对我来说,旅行就像是繁琐工作之后的一种放松方式,珍惜旅行途中这些美好的瞬间,珍惜自己当下所拥有的一切,这很重要。

Hidden among the ancient trees and serene courtyards of Taihua Temple, a cluster of weathered stupas rises quietly, their surfaces draped in soft green moss. Overhanging ancient pines and cypress trees filter the sunlight, casting a dappled glow on the stupas. Dewdrops after rain bead on the moss, shimmering like pearls. The moist air fills with the earthy fragrance of soil, stabbing my nose.

太华寺古树成荫,庭院幽静,一簇饱经风霜的佛塔静静耸立,塔面覆盖着柔软的绿色苔藓。高耸的古松古柏透入一缕阳光,在佛塔上投下斑驳的光辉。雨后的露珠落在苔藓上,像珍珠一样闪闪发光。潮湿的空气中弥漫着泥土香气,扑鼻而来。

Perched high on the summit of Western Hills, the Dragon Gate is a breathtaking stone-carved grotto and archway. This was the destination of my trip. The path to Dragon Gate is an adventurous climb, with steep staircases and stone steps hugging the cliff. I took this memorable photo on the narrow passageways winding along the cliff, and behind me it was the inscription of two words Dragon Gate.

龙门位于西山最高处,是一座令人叹为观止的石窟和拱门。这是我此行的最终目的地。通往龙门的路是一条冒险之路,陡峭的楼梯和石阶紧贴悬崖。我在沿着悬崖蜿蜒的狭窄通道上拍下了这张令人难忘的照片,我的身后就是“龙门”两字的铭文。

Dragon Gate

Stepping through the Dragon Gate feels like walking into the sky. The ledge juts out over the mountainside. Dianchi Lake at the bottom stretches out like a giant mirror, reflecting the changing hues of the sky. The landscape seems to merge with the horizon, making it feel as if I was standing at the edge of the world.

穿过龙门,仿佛就像在天空中漫游。岩架在西山山腰上突兀而出。山脚的滇池就像一面巨大的镜子一样向远方延伸,反射出天空不断变化的色调。远处的风景似乎与地平线融为一体,让我感觉自己此刻就站在世界的边缘。

Yuantong Temple

For my trip of third day, I visited this Yuantong temple which is the oldest and largest Buddhist temple in the city, with a history spanning over 1,200 years. I liked its tranquil atmosphere, ornate architecture, and harmonious integration with nature. Located in the city center, it is a nice place for relaxation.

昆明之行的第三天,我参观了圆通寺,它是这座城市最古老规模最大的佛教寺庙,拥有1200多年的历史。我喜欢它宁静的氛围、华丽的建筑以及与自然的和谐融合。它位于市中心,亦是一个放松的好地方。

Unlike many temples built on mountain peaks, Yuantong Temple sits at a low point. The landscape here left me a deep impression. A large pond with blooming lotus flowers surrounds the main hall, connected by stone bridges that lead visitors over the water. The temple courtyards are adorned with ancient trees, meticulously pruned bonsai, and stone lanterns. Like other places in Kunming, the temple is adorned with many beautiful flowers of different colors.

与许多建在山顶上的寺庙不同,圆通寺地势较低。这里的风景给我留下了深刻的印象。大殿周围是盛开莲花的大池塘,池塘由石桥连接引导游客继续前行。寺庙庭院里种满了古树、装饰这精心修剪的盆景和石灯笼。和昆明的其他地方一样,寺庙里也种满了各种颜色的美丽花朵,尽显春城本色。

Yuantong Temple has blend of architectural styles, where traditional Chinese temple design meets the graceful elegance of Thai influences. This fusion reflects Yunnan’s historical connection with Southeast Asia through trade, religion, and cultural exchange. The intricate carvings on the walls and mutiple upward-curving eaves, resembling the multi-tiered roofs of Thai temples.

圆通寺的建筑风格融合了多种风格,传统中国寺庙设计与泰国风格的优雅融合在一起。这种融合反映了云南与东南亚在贸易、宗教和文化交流方面的历史联系。墙壁上精雕细琢,向上弯曲的多层屋檐类似于泰国寺庙的屋顶。

There is a natural rock formation located within the grounds of Yuantong Temple. Its poetic name means screen embracing the sunset. The Danxia-style cliffs behind the main hall serve as a natural backdrop, glowing in colorful hues as if the mountain itself is a celestial canvas capturing the changing colors of the sky. Danxia Landform is a kind of red sandstone formations shaped by millions of years of weathering and erosion, creating steep cliffs, layered ridges, and vivid colors. The landscape is extraordinary with the colors of nature blended seamlessly with the calm elegance of this temple.

圆通寺内有一块天然形成的岩石。其诗意的名字纳霞屏意为拥抱日落的屏风。主殿后面的丹霞悬崖是天然的背景,散发着五彩缤纷的色彩,仿佛山峰本身就是一幅天体画布,捕捉着天空变幻的色彩。丹霞地貌是一种红色砂岩地貌,经过数百万年的风化和侵蚀,形成了陡峭的悬崖、层层叠叠的山脊和鲜艳的色彩形成了非凡的景色,大自然的色彩与这座寺庙的宁静优雅完美地融合一体。

The weather of Kun Ming is capricious, with clear skies turning into thunderstorms within minutes. Sometimes it is common to see the sky being split, with half bathed in golden light and half shadowed by drifting clouds. This photo was taken in the park of Daguan Tower which was the last scenic spot visited in Kun Ming.

昆明的天气变化无常,常常晴空万里后转眼间就雷雨交加。这种天气下的天空仿佛被分成两半,一半沐浴在金色的阳光中,一半被飘浮的云彩所笼罩,这张照片是在大观楼公园拍摄的,这也是昆明之旅的最后一个景点。

Daguan Tower

The Daguan Tower is a historical pavilion standing proudly on the shores of Dianchi Lake. It was first constructed during the Kangxi reign in the Qing Dynasty. Sun Ranweng, a Qing Dynasty scholar, wrote a 180 characters couplet that immortalized the tower in Chinese literary history.

大观楼是一座屹立在滇池之畔的古楼阁,始建于清康熙年间,清代文人孙染翁曾为大观楼题撰写了一副180字的对联,使大观楼在中国文学史上永垂不朽。

The content of couplet is :

这幅对联的内容是:

五百里滇池奔来眼底,披襟岸帻,喜茫茫空阔无边。看:东骧神骏,西翥灵仪,北走蜿蜒,南翔缟素。高人韵士何妨选胜登临。趁蟹屿螺洲,梳裹就风鬟雾鬓;更苹天苇地,点缀些翠羽丹霞,莫辜负:四围香稻,万顷晴沙,九夏芙蓉,三春杨柳。

数千年往事注到心头,把酒凌虚,叹滚滚英雄谁在?想:汉习楼船,唐标铁柱,宋挥玉斧,元跨革囊。伟烈丰功费尽移山心力。尽珠帘画栋,卷不及暮雨朝云;便断碣残碑,都付与苍烟落照。只赢得:几杵疏钟,半江渔火,两行秋雁,一枕清霜。

Couplet is a form of traditional Chinese literature, a pair of lines in poetry that usually rhyme and have the same or similar length and rhythm. This couplet is known as the first long couplet in the long history of 3000 years. It captures the grand scale of the landscape, while also reflecting on the rise and fall of previous dynasties — blending natural beauty of Kun Ming with historical contemplation.

对联是中国传统文学的一种形式,是一对押韵的诗句,长度和韵脚相同。这副对联被称为3000年来历史上的第一长联。它描述了风景的宏伟,同时也反映了前朝的兴衰——将昆明的自然美景与历史沉淀融为一体。

The tower offers a sweeping view of the lake’s shimmering waters, with boats gliding across the surface. The gardens surrounding the tower are dotted with lotus ponds, which bloom in summer. Graceful willow trees hang over the stone-paved paths, their branches dipping into the water, creating a poetic atmosphere. It is a perfect place where poets mused, scholars sighed, and travelers pondered life’s impermanence.

大观楼眺望滇池风景,湖水波光粼粼,船只穿梭其间。周围的花园里点缀着荷花池,夏季荷花盛开。优美的柳树垂悬在石板路上,枝条垂入水中,营造出诗情画意。这里是诗人沉思冥想、学者感叹历代兴亡和旅行者思考人生无常的绝佳场所。

As the sun set over Dianchi Lake, casting golden reflections on the water, and the Western Hills faded into soft silhouettes, it’s hard not to feel a gentle tug at the heart. Now when I write this blog, every photo is more like a souvenir of beauty and wonder of this extraordinary voyage. This is the meaning of travel, snapshot of every moment of passing with memorable photo. Kunming, with its blossoming flowers, ancient histories, and amazing landscapes, is a city that lingers in my soul long even after I have left.

夕阳西下,在滇池水面上投下金色的倒影,西山的轮廓的剪影渐渐暗淡,很难不感到内心一阵温柔的牵动。现在当我写这篇博客时,每一张照片都更像是这次旅程的一段美好鲜活的回忆。这就是旅行的意义,用令人难忘的照片记录下每一个过往的回忆。昆明,繁花似锦,历史悠久,风景秀丽,是一座在我别离后仍久久萦绕在我灵魂中的城市。

Explore Taiyuan: Dragon City of Shanxi’s Rich History

探索山西龙城太原的悠久历史

Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province in northern China, is a city with a rich history, stretching back over 2,500 years. As a vital political, economic, and military hub, Taiyuan has played a crucial role in the defense of northern China throughout history. Known as “Dragon City,” it was a strategic stronghold during many dynasties, guarding the northern borders and serving as a key trading center due to its strategic position along the Fen River.

太原是山西省的省会,是一座历史悠久的城市,距今已有2500多年的历史。作为重要的政治、经济和军事中心,太原在历史上一直对中国北方地区的防御起到至关重要的作用。太原也被称为“龙城” ,是多个朝代的战略要地,供卫着北部边境,并因其位于汾河沿岸的战略位置而成为重要的贸易中心。

Historically, Taiyuan has been an essential city for both defense and industry. Its location—surrounded by mountains with access to fertile plains—made it ideal for military fortifications and agriculture. During the Tang Dynasty, Taiyuan was the birthplace of the dynasty’s founder, Emperor Li Yuan, and thus held immense symbolic importance as the “cradle” of the Tang. This the bronze statue of Emperor Li Shimin, also known as Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty, accompanied by several of his loyal generals like Yuchi Gong who served as Li Shimin’s personal guard and became a legendary figure in Chinese folklore, sometimes represented as a door god in Chinese culture. Li Shimin, renowned for his military prowess and strategic brilliance, was instrumental in establishing and expanding the Tang Dynasty, which became one of China’s most prosperous and influential dynasties.

历史上,太原一直是国防和工业的重地。太原地理位置优越,四周群山环绕,可直通肥沃的平原,是军事要塞和农业生产的理想之地。太原是唐朝开国皇帝李渊的出生地,因此也被称作唐朝的龙兴之地。这是唐太宗李世民的龙兴晋阳雕塑,身边簇拥尉迟恭等几位忠诚的大将,尉迟恭曾担任李世民的私人护卫,后来成为中国民间传说中的传奇人物,在中国文化中被视为门神。李世民以其军事才能和战略才华而闻名,在建立和扩大唐朝版图方面发挥了重要作用,唐朝也成为中国最繁荣和最有影响力的王朝。

Taiyuan is a fascinating blend of the ancient and the modern. I visited it during my summer trip in July 2023. Nearly all the buildings in this city looked very modern. However, tourists can still explore some historical relics, such as the Jinci Temple and Twin Pagoda Temple, which offer a glimpse into its past, while the city’s industrial areas and modern infrastructure reflect its ongoing role in China’s development.

太原是一座古老与现代交融的城市。2023年7月,我在夏季旅行中顺路参观了太原。这座城市的几乎所有建筑看起来都非常现代。不过,游客仍然可以探索例如晋祠和双塔寺等历史遗迹,这些遗迹可以让人们一窥太原的过去,而如今太原的工业区和鳞次栉比的现代基础设施则反映了它在中国现代发展中持续的作用。

Jinci Park

The Jinci Park is a renowned cultural and historical attraction located in the outskirts of Taiyuan. It is centered around the Jinci Temple, an ancient complex that dates back more than 1,400 years, but the park extends beyond the temple itself, encompassing a vast area of beautiful gardens, historic structures, and natural landscapes. The place with large history meaning is quite meaningful for Chinese history fans. I visited it from the southern part of the park.

晋祠公园是太原郊区著名的文化和历史景点。它以晋祠为中心,这是一座拥有1400多年历史的古老建筑群,公园的占地范围超出了晋祠本身,还包括大片美丽的花园、历史建筑和自然景观。这个地方有着深厚的历史意义,对中国古代史爱好者来说意义非凡。我是从公园的南端开始参观。

The Temple of Duke Wen of Jin was located here. Duke Wen of Jin was a prominent ruler of the Jin State during the Spring and Autumn Period. It was a chaotic period, and China has not become un unified country. There were many small states, and Jing was one of the powerful states. Duke Wen’s life was marked by adversity. After a prolonged exile caused by internal political struggles, he eventually returned to the Jin State and reclaimed his throne with the support of loyal allies. Under his leadership, Jin became a dominant power. His victory in the Battle of Chengpu (632 BCE) against the State of Chu solidified his position, earning him widespread respect as one of the five most powerful king during the Spring and Autumn Period.

晋文公庙就位于此处。晋文公是春秋时期晋国的一位杰出的君主。当时中国还未成为一个统一的国家,有许多小国林立,而晋国是其中一个强大的国家。晋文公的一生命运多蹇。由于内部政治斗争,他长期流亡国外,最终在忠诚部下的支持下回到晋国,夺回了王位。在他的领导下,晋国成为了一个强大的国家。他在城濮之战(公元前 632 年)中战胜了楚国,巩固了他的地位,并被尊为春秋五霸。

The Temple of Duke Wen of Jin

The temple reflects a combination of ancient Chinese architectural traditions. While its original construction dates back many centuries, the current structures have undergone restorations during later dynasties, including the Ming and Qing dynasty. The temple’s design embodies classical Chinese aesthetics, with wooden halls, intricately carved beams, and tiled roofs. Within the temple, visitors can find stone tablets and inscriptions that recount the life and achievements of Duke Wen. These texts provide invaluable insights into the political and military strategies that defined his reign.

这寺庙体现了中国古代建筑的融合。虽然其最初的建筑可追溯到许多世纪以前,但目前看到的建筑在后来的朝代(包括明朝和清朝)都经过了修复。寺庙的设计体现了中国古典美学,有木制大厅、精雕细琢的横梁和瓦片屋顶。在寺庙内,游客可以看到石碑和碑文,这些碑文讲述了文公的生平和成就。这些文字为了解文公统治时期的政治和军事战略提供了宝贵的见解。

Xia Sheng Si

Xia Sheng Si also known as the Temple of the Earthly Birth, is a lesser-known site. This temple is unique in its dedication, focusing on the spiritual connection between the divine and the mortal realm, particularly in relation to the Earthly Mother or local deities believed to oversee human life and nature. In ancient Chinese beliefs, temples like Xia Sheng Si are often built to honor deities responsible for fertility and agriculture. The two stone lions at the gate are a common feature in Chinese architecture and are iconic symbols of protection. When I passed by, I touched them for good luck, as they were believed to bring blessings and ward off misfortune.

下生寺又名地生庙,是一个鲜为人知的景点。这座寺庙的供奉方式独一无二,注重神与人之间的精神联系,尤其是人与地母(或被认为掌管生命和自然的当地神灵)的关系。在古代中国信仰中,像下生寺这样的寺庙通常是为了纪念负责生育和农业的神而建造的。门口的两只石狮则是中国建筑的常见特征,象征庇护。当我经过时,我特意摸摸它们以求好运,相信石狮会带来祝福并避开厄运。

The central hall of Xia Sheng Si contains statues and tablets dedicated to the Earthly Mother or local guardian deities. These figures are typically depicted as benevolent protectors of the land and people. While Jinci Temple primarily honors the Holy Mother of the Jin State, Xia Sheng Si complements this by focusing on the nurturing aspects of nature and its direct influence on human life.

下生寺的中央大厅内有供奉地母或地方守护神的雕像和牌位。它们通常被描绘成土地和人民的仁慈保护者。虽然晋祠主要供奉着晋国圣母,但下生寺则通过关注自然的养育方面及其对人类生活的直接影响来进行补充。

The Bell Tower in Xia Sheng Si exemplifies traditional Chinese architecture, featuring multi-tiered, wooden structure with upturned eaves. It is a high platform, elevating the bell to a prominent position where its sound can travel across the temple grounds. This kind of architecture can be seen in every Chinese temple.

下生寺的钟楼是中国传统建筑的典型代表,采用多层木结构,檐口向上。钟楼是一个高台高高安置着大钟,钟声可以传遍整个寺庙。这种建筑在中国的每座寺庙中都可以看到。

Beyond its historical structures, the Jinci Park is known for its lush gardens, tranquil ponds, and shaded pathways. The centerpiece of the garden is a large, calm lake reflecting the surrounding trees, pavilions, and blue sky. The lake called nine dragons is fed by the Spring of the Immortals, a natural spring that has flowed continuously for centuries. The crystal-clear water symbolizes purity and life, an important theme in traditional Chinese gardens. Willows line the lake’s edge, their long branches gracefully dipping into the water, creating a poetic and serene scene.

除了历史建筑外,晋祠公园还以其郁郁葱葱的花园、宁静的池塘和林荫小道而闻名。花园的中心是一个平静的湖泊,倒映着周围的绿树、亭台楼阁和蓝天。九龙湖的水源来自天然泉眼难老泉,几百年来一直生生不息源源不绝。清澈的湖水象征着纯洁和生命力,这也是中国传统园林中的一个重要主题。慵懒的柳树排列在湖边,长长的枝条优雅地垂入水中,营造出诗情画意。

The garden is filled with ancient cypress and pine trees, some of which are over a thousand years old, providing shade and adding to the historical ambiance.

园内古柏古松遍布,有的树龄逾千年,遮阴蔽日,更增添了历史气息。

Lake of nine dragons

Scattered throughout the garden are elegant pavilions and gazebos, offering places for visitors to rest and take in the scenic views. Winding stone pathways lead visitors through the garden, encouraging a leisurely pace to fully appreciate its beauty. Artificial rockeries, a staple of Chinese garden design, add texture and depth to the landscape. These rocks, carefully arranged, mimic the appearance of natural mountain formations and symbolize stability and endurance.

花园各处散布着优雅的亭台楼阁,为游客提供休息和欣赏美景的地方。蜿蜒的石路引导游客层层穿过花园,悠闲地欣赏花园的美景。人造假山也是中国园林设计的主要元素,为景观增添了质感。这些精心布置的岩石模仿了自然山体的外观,象征着坚韧。

The Tang Garden is a beautifully divided landscaped area inspired maybe by the sophisticated garden styles of the Tang Dynasty. The Tang-inspired pavilions within the garden are characterized by their intricate wooden carvings and upturned eaves. Rockeries, bamboo groves, and flowering plants are frequently used in this garden.

唐园是一个风景优美的园林区,其设计灵感可能源自唐代的精致园林风格。园内的亭台楼阁以精致的木雕和上翘的屋檐为特色,并广泛使用了假山、竹林和开花植物作为装饰。

Tang Garden

The Tang Dynasty is often regarded as a golden age of Chinese culture. The garden includes a serene pond and small stone bridges and steppingstones cross the pond, invites visitors to pause and enjoy the tranquil scenery from different vantage points. Walking along the garden’s stone paths, I could admire the lotus flowers up close, hear the gentle rustle of leaves, and watch koi fish weaving through the submerged stems. The large, emerald-green leaves float gracefully on the surface. Despite growing in muddy water, the lotus emerges clean and beautiful, symbolizing the ability to remain untainted by worldly impurities. So, lotus is revered in Chinese culture and often associated with purity and many poems drew inspiration from lotus flowers.

唐代通常被认为是中国文化的黄金时代。唐园花园里有一个宁静的小池塘,池塘上横跨着小石桥和踏脚石,让游客驻足欣赏,从不同的角度欣赏这片宁静的风景。沿着花园的石路漫步,我可以近距离欣赏含苞欲放的荷花,聆听树叶轻柔的沙沙声,观看锦鲤在沉下浮上的叶茎中穿梭。宽大而翠绿的荷叶优雅地漂浮在水面上。尽管生长在泥水中,荷花却纯净高雅,象征着不受世俗杂质污染的能力。荷花在中国文化中备受推崇,常常与纯洁联系在一起,许多诗歌也都是从荷花中汲取灵感。

Lingyun Ge

Lingyun Ge is a towering structure that offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. is a multi-tiered wooden pavilion with an imposing yet graceful presence. Its name, “Soaring Clouds,” suggests its lofty position and the feeling of elevation one experiences when climbing it. The structure features intricately carved beams, colorful murals, and decorative eaves, showcasing the craftsmanship of traditional Chinese architecture. It was historically used as a place for scholars, monks, and visitors to draw inspiration from nature and create poetry here.

凌云阁是一座高耸的建筑,可俯瞰周围景观。它是一座多层木结构亭子,气势宏伟,又不失优雅。它的名字暗示了高耸的位置以及攀登时体验到的升华感。该建筑以精雕细琢的横梁、色彩缤纷的壁画和装饰性屋檐为特色,展示了中国传统建筑的工艺。历史上,这里曾是各种文人墨客僧侣游客从大自然汲取灵感并创作诗歌的地方。

In ancient Chinese garden, travelers can always see this kind of loft building with a tunnel at the ground level, which allows for pedestrian passage beneath the structure. It is a two-story brick loft, constructed using traditional Chinese masonry techniques. The upper floors feature small, lattice windows and ornamental brickwork. Positioned along a main pathway, it acts as a transition point, guiding visitors to the main gate of Jingci temple.

中国古代园林中,游客总能看到这种阁楼建筑,底层设有隧道,方便行人从建筑下方通过。这是一座两层砖砌阁楼,采用传统砌筑技术建造而成。上层设有小格子窗和装饰性砖砌结构。它位于主干道沿线引导游客前往晋祠的正门。

In front of the main gate of Jingci Temple, there is an array of bridges constructed from gray or white stone, with elegantly carved balustrades and decorative patterns. The intricate carvings of auspicious symbols, such as dragons and phoenixes are believed to bring good fortune and spiritual protection. The bridges are positioned directly in front of the temple’s main gate, creating a sense of grandeur and symmetry. The similar design can be seen in the Tiananmen square.

晋祠正门前有一排装饰精美的雕刻栏杆和图案的灰白色石头建造的桥梁。古人相信带有龙凤等吉祥符号的精雕细琢能带来好运。这些桥梁位于正门的前方,营造出一种宏伟和对称的感觉。天在著名的天安门广场上也可以看到类似的设计。

Hall of Holy Mother

The Jinci temple origins date back to the Western Zhou Dynasty (11th century BCE – 771 BCE), although much of its current structure reflects later periods, including the Northern Wei, Tang, Song, and Ming Dynasties. Originally built to honor Shuyu which is the founding ruler of the ancient Jin State, Jinci served as a shrine dedicated to the Holy Mother of Jin later. This is the main hall of this temple. It is one of the few surviving Song Dynasty wooden structures in China, making it an invaluable resource for studying ancient Chinese architecture and construction techniques.

晋祠的起源可追溯到西周时期,但其大部分现有建筑反映了包括北魏、唐、宋和明朝时期的建筑风格。晋祠最初是为了纪念古代晋国的开国君王唐叔虞而建,后来成为了纪念晋国圣母的神殿。图中是晋祠的主殿。它是中国少数幸存的宋代木结构建筑,是研究中国古代建筑技术的宝贵资源。

The dragon carvings on the columns of the Hall are extraordinary examples of Song Dynasty artistry. The dragons are carved in high relief, giving them a three-dimensional, lifelike appearance. Each dragon appears to be in motion, coiling around the columns with an energetic sense of power. Their claws, depicted with sharp, grasping talons, clutch at the columns. The dragons’ faces are particularly expressive, with fierce eyes, flaring nostrils, and open mouths revealing sharp teeth and long, curling tongues.

The placement of the dragon carvings on multiple columns creates a sense of balance and harmony within the hall. In Chinese mythology, dragons are believed to control rivers and rain. Their carvings in the Hall of the Holy Mother highlight the temple’s connection to water, particularly the nearby Spring of the Immortals, which nourishes the complex.

晋祠大殿柱子上的盘龙雕是宋代艺术的杰出典范。这种柱子采用高浮雕设计,立体逼真。每条龙都动感十足,盘绕在柱子上,充满压迫力。龙爪锋利,紧抓着柱子。龙的面部表情特别生动,眼神凶狠,咧开嘴巴,露出锋利的牙齿和长而卷曲的舌头。

盘龙雕被安置在大厅多个柱子上,营造出一种平衡和谐的感觉。在中国神话中,龙被视为控制着河流、雨水的主神。圣母殿的盘龙雕则凸显了晋祠与水的联系,尤其是这个大殿附近的难老泉,它滋养了整个建筑群。

Inside the hall stands a life-sized clay statue of the Holy Mother, honored as a protective deity and matron of the ancient Jin State. The statue is made of painted clay, a medium that allowed for fine detailing and vibrant coloration. Her robes are elaborately adorned with flowing patterns and textures, reflecting the high status of her divine role. These sculptures made in Song Dynasty are celebrated for their lifelike appearance and intricate details.

主殿内矗立着一尊真人大小的圣母泥塑,圣母被尊为古代晋国的守护神。雕像由彩绘粘土制成,这种材料可以体现精准的细节和鲜艳的色彩。圣母的长袍上流畅的图案和纹理装饰精美,彰显圣母的崇高地位。这些宋代雕塑因其栩栩如生的外观和复杂的细节而闻名于世。

Flanking the Holy Mother are 42 life-sized attendant statues, each with a distinct role and character. These attendants include officials, warriors, and maidens. The statues are renowned for their realism, a hallmark of Song Dynasty sculpture. The artists paid meticulous attention to facial expressions, body proportions, and the texture of garments. Though the colors have faded over time, traces of red, gold, blue, and green paint still remain. The intricate designs on the robes and accessories demonstrate the high level of Chinese craftsmanship one thousand years ago.

圣母两侧是42尊真人大小的侍女雕像,每尊雕像都有不同的角色和性格。这些侍女包括办事员、武卫和服侍圣母的仆人。这些雕像以写实而闻名,写实风也是宋代雕塑的一大特色。艺术家对面部表情、身体比例和服装质地非常考究。虽然随着时间的推移,雕像的颜色已经褪色,但红金色蓝绿色的颜料痕迹仍然残留。长袍的配饰上复杂的图案也向我们展示了一千年前中国工艺的高超水平。

Twin Cypress Trees

Jinci Temple is famous for three wonders: Maid Statues in the Hall of the Holy Mother, The Spring of the Immortals, and the Twin Cypress Trees. They are the unique cultural treasure. In this picture, one of the two ancient cypress trees stand near the Hall of the Holy Mother. It is estimated to be over 3,000 years old, making them some of the oldest trees in China. Now both trees are so old that they need a metallic pole to support them. These trees are seen as symbols of eternal life. They have survived countless historical events, embodying the resilience of Chinese civilization.

晋祠以三绝闻名:圣母殿侍女像、难老泉和双柏。它们是独一无二的文化瑰宝。这张照片中,圣母殿附近矗立着一棵老古柏。据说这棵古柏树已有 3000 多年的历史,是中国最古老的树木之一。如今这两棵树都已然垂垂老矣需要一根金属杆来支撑。这种柏树也被视为长生的象征。它们经历了千年岁月的洗礼,依然幸存至今,体现了中华文明的坚韧不拔的精神。

Spring of the Immortals

This is the pavilion of the famous Spring of the Immortals. It is a natural spring that has been continuously flowing for over a thousand years. Its name suggests that drinking its water can bring longevity. The water is clear, cool, and pure, feeding the surrounding ponds and streams within the temple complex during thousands of years.

这是著名的难老泉亭。这里是一处天然泉眼,已流淌一千多年。它的名字象征着饮用其水可以长寿。难老泉水清澈凉爽、纯净无比,数千年来一直滋润着寺庙建筑群周围的池塘和溪流。

Flying Bridge Over the Fishpond

The stone bridge that spans the central fishpond in front of the Hall of the Holy Mother is called Yuzhao Feiliang in Chinese which means Flying Bridge Over the Fishpond. It is named “Flying Bridge” because of its innovative design: the bridge is supported by piers and extends out in a cross-shape, connecting the four cardinal directions. This gives the impression of the bridge “flying” over the water. It is an outstanding example of Song Dynasty engineering. The innovative cross-shaped layout is rare in traditional Chinese architecture.

圣母殿前这条横跨鱼塘的石桥,名为“鱼沼飞梁”,意为鱼塘上的飞桥。飞桥因设计新颖而得名:桥身由石墩支撑,呈十字形延伸,连接四方,给人以“飞”在水面上的感觉。这是宋代工程的杰出典范。这种创新的十字形建桥布局在中国传统建筑中并不常见。

Water Mirror Terrace

Apart from the three wonders, I visited other notable ancient architectures. The Water Mirror Terrace is an elevated stone platform for performing operas. It is now an important venue for activities during the Jinci Temple Fair. There is a plaque on the front and side with the four characters “Three Jin Famous Springs”. The west side (back) is a stage with a single-eaved curved roof. The east side is a double-eaved hip roof from the Ming Dynasty. There are eight water tanks under the stage. Every two of them are buckled together to form four groups of “large speakers”, which is a way for the ancients to increase the volume when performing.

除了晋祠三绝,我还参观了其他颇有意义的古建筑。这个水镜台是一座高架的石台,用于古人演戏剧,现在是晋祠庙会期间的重要活动场所。台的正面和侧面有一块匾额,上面写着“三晋名泉”四个大字。西侧(背面)是一座单檐曲顶戏台,东侧是明代重檐庑殿顶。戏台下有八个水缸,每两个水缸扣在一起,形成四组“大喇叭”,这是古人演出时用来增加音量的方法。

Golden Figures Terrace

In this picture the Golden Figures Terrace is a stone terrace and an intriguing and historically significant feature. Its name derives from the presence of metal statues on the terrace. These figures were cast in bronze or covered in gold leaf in the Song Dynasty. Some historical experts suggest that the statues may have commemorated notable military figures or ancestors of the Jin State, emphasizing the importance of loyalty and heritage in Chinese culture.

这幅图中的金人台是一座石台,是一处具有重要历史意义的景点。它的名字源于台上的金属雕像。这些雕像在宋代用青铜铸造用金箔包裹。一些历史专家认为,这些雕像可能是为了纪念晋国著名的军事人物或祖先,强调忠诚在传统中国文化中的重要性。

Duiyue Archway

This kind of archway is an important feature in Chinese architecture. The Duiyue Archway is constructed in the traditional Chinese memorial archway style with stone as its primary material. The archway is richly decorated with carved reliefs, including motifs of dragons, clouds, and lotus flowers. The calligraphy on the plague attributed to skilled artists of the Ming Dynasty. The archway is carefully positioned to align with the temple’s main axis. The term duiyue conveys a sense of offering deep respect, particularly to ancestral spirits. In Chinese, “Dui” means to repay; “Yue” means to promote. The two words combined together mean “repaying and promoting the merits of ancestors”

这种牌坊是中国建筑的一个重要特征。对越牌坊采用中国传统的牌坊风格建造,主要材料为石头。牌坊上雕刻着包括龙、云和莲花等丰富的浮雕。牌匾上的书法出自明代技艺精湛的艺术家之手。牌坊的位置也经过精心设计,与寺庙的中轴完全对齐。对越一词传达了一种深深的敬意,尤其是对先祖的敬意。在古汉文里,“对”的意思是报答;“越”的意思是弘扬。这两个词结合在一起的意思是“报答和弘扬祖先的功德”

Tang Shuyu Shrine

The main character of the temple Tang Shuyu was the younger son of King Wu of Zhou. According to historical accounts, he was granted the land of Tang (modern-day Shanxi) as a fiefdom for his loyalty and contributions to the Zhou court.
He was credited with establishing the State of Jin, which later became a powerful force in northern China. The shrine and even the whole Jingci temple was built to honor Tang Shuyu. It has been a site of ancestral worship and ritual offerings for centuries.

晋祠的主人公唐叔虞是周武王的小儿子。据史料记载,他因对周朝廷的忠诚和贡献而被封为唐地(位于现山西)。后来他建立了晋国,而晋国则成为中国北方的一支强大的军事力量。这座神社乃至整个晋祠最初都是为了纪念唐叔虞而建的。几个世纪以来,这里一直是祭祀祖先的场所。

I traveled in this place for a whole afternoon. The old temple and towers of Jinci were enveloped by profuse greenery of pine and cypress trees. The gentle rustle of leaves, the soft chirping of birds, and the sound of flowing water created a meditative atmosphere. The enchanting environment here was really attractive for me, reminiscent of Jiangnan’s poetic charm.

我在晋祠景区游玩了一下午,这里的古刹宝塔被郁郁葱葱的松柏环绕,树叶沙沙自语,鸟儿轻声鸣叫绕林不绝,流水潺潺,令人心旷神怡,迷人的环境犹如江南诗情画意的感觉让我陶醉其中。

Tai Yuan is modern city and there are not so many ancient architectures in the city center which appears a bit boring. This is the landscape of the Fen River, known as the “Mother River of Shanxi”. It is the second-largest tributary of the Yellow River and holds immense historical, cultural, and economic significance for the region. Flowing through Taiyuan, the river traverses the city from north to south, creating a scenic corridor. There are many high rising apartments along the riverbank, marking the quick progress of modernism of cities in China.

太原是一座现代化城市,市中心没有太多的古建筑,并显得有些乏味。这里是被称为“山西母亲河”的汾河风景。它是黄河的第二大支流,对该地区具有巨大的历史文化和经济意义。汾河流经太原,从北向南横穿城市,形成一条风景走廊。河岸边有许多平地而起的高层公寓,标志着中国城市日新月异的现代化进程。

In the evening, when the darkness has fallen, I visited the Bell tower pedestrian street. It was extremely crowded. It was designed to reflect Taiyuan’s historical charm, with buildings showcasing traditional Chinese architectural elements such as upturned eaves and red lanterns. Numerous restaurants and food stalls lined the street, serving a mix of traditional Shanxi dishes.

夜幕降临,我来到太原市中心的钟楼步行街。一条街上人头攒动。这条街的设计反映了太原的悠久历史,并展示了如飞檐和红灯笼中国传统的建筑元素。街道两旁林立着许多餐馆和小吃摊,兜售各种传统的山西菜肴。

Enjoying delicious local food is always important for travelers. Shanxi cuisine is famous for noodles. Kaolaolao is a signature dish of Shanxi Cuisine. It is a type of steamed noodle roll, made by rolling thin strips of dough of oat flour into spirals or small hollow cylinders. Once steamed, the Kaolaolao has a soft, chewy texture. It is served together with minced garlic, aged vinegar, and spicy oil.

Shanxi cuisine is also renowned for its rich flavors and unique use of aged vinegar. The combination of tender beef of original taste and aromatic aged vinegar creates a balance of savory and tangy flavors that exemplifies the culinary art of the region. Made from sorghum, barley, and peas, the vinegar undergoes a lengthy aging process, often for several years, which gives it its distinct flavor profile—rich, mellow, and slightly sweet with a tangy kick. Travelers must try it when traveling in Shanxi province.

品尝美味的当地美食对异乡旅行者来说尤为重要。山西菜以面食闻名。莜面栲栳栳是招牌山西菜。它其实是一种蒸面卷,由燕麦粉制成的薄条面团卷成螺旋状或小空心圆柱体制成。蒸熟后栲栳栳质地柔软,有嚼劲。它通常与蒜末、陈醋和辣油一起食用。

山西菜也因大量使用浓郁独特的陈醋而闻名。比如原味嫩牛肉和芳香的陈醋相结合,营造出酸咸味的平衡,体现了该地区的烹饪艺术。这种醋由高粱、大麦和豌豆制成,经过通常长达数年的陈化过程,这使其具有浓郁、醇厚、略带甜酸味的独特风味。游客在山西省旅行时一定要尝尝当地的陈醋。

This was the Bell Tower on this street which was initially constructed during the Ming Dynasty. It is a multi-tiered wooden structure built on a solid stone foundation. Its design follows the traditional Chinese architectural style. The roof is covered with green-glazed tiles, and the tower is adorned with red pillars and ornamental brackets, giving it an imposing appearance. It acts as a hub for community activities and many people assemble in this area at night.

这是这条街上始建于明代的钟楼,为多层木结构建筑,石质基座十分坚固。它的设计遵循中国传统建筑风格,屋顶上覆绿琉璃瓦,塔身饰以红色柱子和斗拱,气势磅礴。钟楼区域是当地人活动的中心,晚上许多人聚集在附近。

Tai Yuan was only a transit stop of my trip in Shanxi province, and I stayed for one day in this city. Before I left, I visited the Yongzuo Temple, which is one of Taiyuan’s most iconic historical sites. Located southeast of the city, this temple is famed for its two towering pagodas that stand as a testament to the architectural and cultural achievements of the Ming Dynasty.

太原只是我山西之行的一个中转站,我在这个城市仅仅停留了一天。离开之前,我参观了永祚寺,它是太原最具代表性的历史遗迹之一。这座寺庙位于城市的东南部,以两座高耸的宝塔而闻名,这些宝塔是明代建筑和文化成就的见证。

The temple was originally built during the reign of Emperor Wanli in the late Ming Dynasty. It was named Yongzuo Temple, symbolizing the emperor’s hope for eternal peace and prosperity. Over the centuries, the temple has served as a center for Buddhist worship and cultural activities.

祚寺寺始建于明末万历年间,名字象征着皇帝对永世承平的期盼。几个世纪以来,永祚寺一直是佛教崇拜和文化活动的中心。

The Twin Pagodas, built entirely of bricks and standing approximately 54 meters tall, are octagonal in shape and have 13 stories each. Both pagodas exhibit classic Chinese architecture, characterized by their elegant proportions, intricate brick carvings, and flying eaves. The pagodas were originally constructed to house Buddhist scriptures and as a way to bring blessings to the land. They symbolize the balance of duality in Buddhism and are seen as guardians of the temple.

双塔全部由砖砌成,高约 54 米,呈八角形,每座塔都是13 层。它们均采用中国古典塔楼的建筑风格,其特点是上下比例优雅、砖雕精美和飞檐装饰。双塔最初是为了存放佛经和为土地带来神灵庇佑而建造的。它们象征着佛教中二元性的平衡,也被视为寺庙的守卫者。

The towers narrow as they ascend, creating a visually pleasing silhouette on the lake of Twin Pagoda Temple Park. Although Taiyuan is an industrial city, there are many parks built in the city to create a serene environment for people to have a rest in the weekend. The park is filled with ancient cypress trees, pine groves, and flower gardens. Traditional Chinese Pavilions are scattered throughout the park. In the morning, many local people come here to have a physical exercise.

双塔寺公园的塔身随高度逐渐收窄,在湖面上形成美观的剪影。太原虽然是一座工业城市,如今城市中却建有众多绿化公园,为人们周末的休憩营造出宁静的环境。这些公园内古柏参天,松林密布,花团锦簇,传统中式亭台楼阁散布各处。清晨,许多当地人会来此晨练。

This ancient city of thousands years history is a treasure of history and culture. From the grandeur of Jinci Temple, with its serene gardens and legendary springs, to the towering elegance of the Twin Pagoda Temple, every corner of Taiyuan tells a story of legacy. Although it is not a city famous of tourism, I think it is worthy to visit this city considering its pivotal role of Northern Gate in China’s history.

In the 2000 years history, Tai Yuan has always become the important town to fiercely resist the invasion from enemies like the Huns, Khitan-led Liao Dynasty, the Jin Dynasty, the Mongols, the Manchus and the Japanese in the second world war. There were many bloody combats happening here. Now the epics and heroes can only be found in the history book. May the spirit of Taiyuan’s ancient charm and heroism stay with every Chinese eternally.

这座拥有千年历史的古城的确是历史文化的宝藏。从宏伟的晋祠、宁静的花园和传奇的泉水,到高耸的双塔,太原的每一个角落都讲述着一段传奇故事。虽然太原不是一座以旅游闻名的城市,但考虑到它在中国历史上作为北境大门的关键地位,我认为这座城市依然值得一游。

太原在两千多年的历史长河中,一直是抗击匈奴、辽金、蒙古、满清、二战中的日本等强敌入侵的重镇,无数先烈在此浴血奋战,这些可歌可泣的抗争史如今只能在青史上寻觅,愿太原的古韵与英雄精神永远留存在每一个中国人心中。

后记:

刘琨(271年-318年),字越石,是西晋末年的名将、文学家,以忠勇和才华著称。他一生致力于抵御五胡的入侵,守卫北方的汉族百姓。刘琨当时镇守孤城太原十年,黄河以北的土地已经全部沦陷。面对敌强我弱的形势,誓死抵抗。刘琨最终因势单力薄未能扭转大局,他的绝命诗 ‘何意百炼钢,化为绕指柔。’千古流传。这首诗展现了刘琨临死前的内心独白和人生感悟。他将自己比作百炼钢,虽历经磨难,却因时代与命运的无情,终化为柔弱。尽管如此,他对“柔弱胜刚强”的智慧有了领悟,这种对生命的洒脱和哲理思考,正是中国古代文人武将那种豪放与细腻兼具的心境写照。太原旅行的时刻自然就想到了这句千古名句。

An Early Morning Hike to Doi Suthep

素帖山的徒步之旅

Doi Suthep is a mountain located in Northern Thailand, just a short distance from the city of Chiang Mai. It stands at an elevation of about 1,676 meters above sea level and is part of the Doi Suthep-Pui National Park, a protected area known for its rich biodiversity, lush forests, and stunning viewpoints. Hiking to Doi Suthep is highly recommended when visiting Chiang Mai. It offers breathtaking views of lush forests, cascading waterfalls, and panoramic vistas over the ancient city.

素帖山位于泰国北部,距离清迈市不远。海拔约1,676米,是素帖山国家公园的一部分。素帖山国家公园是一个保护区,以其丰富的生物多样性、茂密的森林和壮丽的景色而闻名。游览清迈时,游客可以徒步前往素帖山。从这里可以欣赏到茂密的森林、层叠的瀑布和古城的全景等各种令人叹为观止的风景。

My trip started from the Chiang Mai university which is located at the foot of Doi Suthep mountain. It has well-maintained gardens, tree-lined walkways, and lakes, creating a peaceful atmosphere. With Doi Suthep as a backdrop, the campus feels like a retreat from the busy city, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and forests. The air is fresher, and the abundance of greenery gives it a tranquil, almost park-like environment that is perfect for study and relaxation.

我的旅程从位于素帖山脚下的清迈大学开始。这个校园里有精心维护的花园、绿树成荫的人行道和湖泊,营造出一种宁静的氛围。以素帖山为背景,校园感觉就像是远离喧嚣城市的世外桃源,在这里可以欣赏到周围群山和森林的壮丽景色。空气清新,绿植茂盛,营造出一种宁静、近乎公园般的环境,非常适合学习和放松。

Ang Kaew Reservoir

One of the most picturesque spots on the campus is its iconic Ang Kaew Reservoir, a serene lake bordered by trees and walking paths. It’s a popular spot for visitors, providing breathtaking views of Doi Suthep in the background. The reflection of the surrounding greenery on the lake’s calm waters creates a tranquil atmosphere perfect for a peaceful stroll. I arrived at the lakeside at around 9 am. Many people walked around the lake.

校园里最美丽的景点就是标志性的安卡沃水库,这是一片宁静的湖泊,周围环绕着树木和步行道。它是热门旅游景点,背景是令人惊叹的素帖山美景。周围的绿色植物倒映在平静的湖面上,营造出一种宁静的氛围,非常适合悠闲地散步。我上午9点左右抵达湖边。一大早就有许多人在湖边散步。

Chiang Mai university

Adding to the charm of the campus are several fountains scattered throughout the grounds. These fountains, particularly the ones near the main entrance and academic buildings, bring a refreshing and calming presence to the university’s environment. Combined with the abundance of trees, plants, and flowers, they contribute to the feeling of being immersed in nature.

几座分布的喷泉也为校园增添了魅力。尤其是主入口和教学楼附近的喷泉为大学环境带来了清新和平静的感觉。加上丰富的树木、植物和鲜花,让人们仿佛沉浸在大自然中。

People usually take this road to Doi Suthep, which is known as Route 1004. It is a winding and scenic journey that starts from Chiang Mai university and ascends the mountain toward the famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. The road is paved in good condition. The length of the road is around 9km which is a challenge to most hikers especially in such a hot weather. Of course, tourists can choose to take cars up the mountain.

人们通常沿着这条1004 号公路登上素帖山。这是一条蜿蜒而风景优美的旅程,从清迈大学出发,沿着山路一直向著名的素帖山双龙寺前进。这条路修建得很好。路长约 9公里,在如此炎热的天气里对大多数徒步旅行者来说是一个挑战。当然,游客也可以选择乘车上山。

Wat Sri Soda

I took around 3 hours to walk to the summit. There are several viewpoints and temples along the road which make the trip no so boring. Wat Sri Soda is a serene Buddhist temple located at the base of Doi Suthep mountain. It is surrounded by greenery, making it a peaceful retreat away from the busier parts of Chiang Mai. It is a wonderful stop for those interested in exploring lesser-known temples in Chiang Mai, as well as for hikers looking to start the scenic trek up Doi Suthep.

我花了大约3个小时步行到山顶。沿路有几处观景点和寺庙,一路游览下来旅途就不会特别无聊。Wat Sri Soda 是一座宁静的佛教寺庙,位于素帖山脚下。它周围绿树成荫,是远离清迈繁华地区的一处宁静的休憩地。对于那些有兴趣探索清迈那些鲜为人知的寺庙以及想要开始徒步攀登素帖山的徒步旅行的徒步旅行者来说,这是一个绝佳的驻足点。

Huay Kaew Waterfall

Huay Kaew Waterfall is a delicate and easily accessible waterfall located near the base of Doi Suthep mountain. The waterfall consists of multiple small cascades tumbling over rocks and boulders, with pools of water forming at various points. I could dip my feet in the cool water and relax by the stream. Though not very large, it is tranquil and provides a break from the city’s heat.

华凯瀑布位于素帖山脚下,是一个精致且交通便利的瀑布。瀑布由多个小瀑布组成,瀑布从岩石上倾泻而下,在各个地方形成水洼。旅途中将脚浸入清凉的水中,在溪边放松身心缓解疲劳是一个很惬意的事情。虽然瀑布不是很大,但却很宁静,可以让人暂时远离城市的炎热。

The waterfall doesn’t plunge in one dramatic drop but rather consists of several smaller cascades that flow down the rocks, creating a series of small falls. The stream weaves its way down the mountain, and small paths and trails run alongside parts of the watercourse. These pathways without many people are often used by hikers or visitors exploring the nearby area. Huay Kaew Waterfall is also the starting point for some of the more adventurous hikes up Doi Suthep, including the Monk’s Trail, which leads to Wat Pha Lat.

瀑布并非一泻而下,而是由几道较小的瀑布组成,溪水顺着岩石流下,形成一系列小瀑布。溪流一路蜿蜒而下,一条小径也伴随着溪流一路向下。徒步旅行者或者冒险家经常会使用这条人迹罕至的小径。华凯瀑布也是素帖山徒步旅行中通往帕拉寺的僧侣小径的起点。

Wat Pha Lat

Wat Pha Lat, also known as “Monastery at the Sloping Rock,” was originally built as a resting point for pilgrims making the journey up the mountain to the revered Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Legend has it that it was one of the spots where a sacred white elephant rested while carrying the Buddha’s relic up Doi Suthep, a significant event that led to the construction of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep at the mountain’s summit.

帕拉寺又名“斜岩寺”,最初是为前往素帖山的朝圣者修建的休息点。传说这里是一头神圣的白象在抬着佛祖的遗体上山时休息的地方,这一轶闻促使在山上修建了这座帕拉寺。

In my opinion, it was one historic temple really worth a visit. If the tourists took the car directly up towards the summit, they would have no such a chance to visit it. Wat Pha Lat is nestled deep in the jungle, surrounded by towering trees, bamboo groves, and the soothing sounds of a nearby stream. Its hidden location gives it a mystical, peaceful atmosphere that feels far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city.

这是一座我心目中特别值得一游的历史寺庙。如果游客直接乘车前往山顶,就没有机会参观它了。帕拉寺坐落在丛林深处,周围环绕着参天大树、竹林,还能听见附近溪流的潺潺流水声。它隐蔽的位置带来了一种神秘宁静的氛围,让人感觉远离了城市的喧嚣。

The temple’s architecture blends harmoniously with the natural landscape. Its structures, including a beautiful Buddha statue, meditation pavilions, and a stone chedi (stupa), are scattered along a hillside overlooking the valley below. Many of the temple buildings and shrines are adorned with intricate carvings and statues that have been weathered by time.

寺庙的建筑与自然景观融为一体。包括美丽的佛像、冥想亭和石佛塔等建筑散布在俯瞰山谷的山坡上。许多建筑和神殿里都装饰有精美的雕刻和雕像,许多雕像已经随着时间的流逝而风化。

Unlike many of the grand and golden temples in Bangkok, the unique Lanna-style architecture in this temple blends harmoniously with the surrounding jungle. The temple grounds are filled with beautiful stone pathways and staircases that wind through the jungle. The use of stone gives the temple a natural, earthy feel. Many of these pathways are lined with Buddhist statues, such as serene Buddhas and mythical creatures like nagas.

与曼谷许多宏伟而金碧辉煌的寺庙不同,这座独特的兰纳风格建筑与周围的丛林融为一体。寺庙内遍布美丽的石路和蜿蜒穿过丛林的楼梯。这种原始的石头给寺庙带来了一种自然朴实的感觉。许多石路两旁都摆放着如平和的佛像和龙等神话生物的雕像。

Wat Pha Lat features several small pagodas which are typical in Buddhist temple design. These structures are often adorned with delicate carvings and designs, including lotus motifs and floral patterns. Though modest in size, they stand as symbols of spiritual significance and are important elements of the temple’s layout.

帕拉寺还有几个小塔,它们在佛教寺庙中是非常典型的设计。这些结构通常装饰有包括莲花图案和花卉图案等精致的雕刻。它们大小适中具有精神意义的象征,也是圣殿布局的重要元素。

Scattered around the temple grounds are open-air pavilions where monks and visitors can sit in quiet reflection. Unlike more monumental temples, Wat Pha Lat’s architecture serves to complement the forested environment, offering a serene space for meditation, reflection, and quiet spiritual practice.

散落在寺庙周围的是露天凉亭,僧侣和游客可以安静地坐在那里休息。与一些巨大的寺庙不同,帕拉寺四周都是森林,为佛教徒冥想沉思提供了安静的空间。

It was an excruciating journey from mountain bottom to the top under a scorching sunlight. Fortunately, there are some viewpoints along the road for visitors to have a short break and get a panoramic view of Chiang Mai city. The blue sky is exceptionally clear which is dotted by white clouds. Some vendors will sell grilled pork or chicken skewers, marinated in a mix of Thai herbs and spices or fried sausages and coconuts at these places. It was really a necessary supply of food and drink for hikers like me after walking more than two hours.

头顶烈日一路从山底到山顶这真的是一段令人窒息的旅程。幸运的是,路上有一些观景台,让游客短暂休息并欣赏清迈城的全景。这天的蓝天异常晴朗,朵朵白云点缀着苍天。一些小贩会在这些地方出售融合泰国草药和香料的烤猪肉鸡肉串,炸香肠和椰子。奋力徒步两个多小时后,像我这样的徒步旅行者确实急需这些食物和饮料补给。

Rap Sadet Fall

I continued to walk upwards until I saw this waterfall. It was very close to the destination of this journey – Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Rap Sadet is a beautiful, multi-tiered waterfall with several cascades that flow down rocks and boulders into small pools. The waterfall isn’t very tall but has a gentle and serene flow. It is surrounded by thick forest and lush vegetation, and there are no tourists here. The dense greenery, the sound of the cascading water, and the cooler mountain air make it a refreshing escape from the heat of Chiang Mai.

继续往上走当我看到这个瀑布时距离这次旅程的目的地——素帖双龙寺已经很近了。Rap Sadet 是一个美丽的多层瀑布,有几条瀑布从岩石和巨石上流下汇集成小水潭。这条瀑布不是很高,水流平缓而宁静。它周围是茂密的森林和茂盛的植被,几乎没有游客。茂密的绿植、瀑布的流水声和凉爽的山间空气,使这里成为逃离清迈避暑之地。

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of the most iconic and revered temples in Thailand. The temple is an important pilgrimage site for Thai Buddhists, particularly during religious holidays. There are so many tourists here. Before visiting it, tourists must climb up this super high steps. The 306-step staircase is lined with intricately decorated naga figures that symbolize protection. It is believed that climbing the staircase is part of the spiritual journey.

素帖双龙寺是泰国最具标志性和最受尊敬的寺庙之一。这座寺庙是泰国佛教徒的重要朝圣地,尤其是在宗教节日期间游客信众众多。在参观寺庙之前,游客必须爬上图中这个超极高的台阶。这座306级台阶两侧是装饰精美的纳迦雕像,象征着保护意义。人们相信攀爬高梯亦是精神修行的一部分。

The central feature of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the golden chedi, which is visible from many parts of Chiang Mai. The chedi is covered in gold leaf and shines brightly in the sunlight, making it a striking symbol of the temple. It enshrines the sacred Buddha relic, and worshippers walk around it in a clockwise direction as part of their prayers.

素帖双龙寺最引人注目的就是金色的佛塔,即使从清迈城的许多地方都可以远远看到它。佛塔上覆有金箔,在阳光下闪闪发光,是寺庙的最具标志性的建筑。佛塔内供奉着佛陀的舍利,信徒们会顺时针绕着佛塔祈祷。

The temple’s architecture is a prime example of Lanna-style design, with intricately carved wooden structures, golden umbrellas, and detailed murals depicting the life of the Buddha. The roofs are adorned with gold and red, typical of Northern Thai temple design. Throughout the temple grounds, I can find statues of Buddha, shrines, and small pagodas, all contributing to the sense of reverence. Large bronze bells are located throughout the temple grounds, which visitors can ring for good luck.

寺庙的建筑是兰纳风格设计的典范,拥有精雕细琢的木结构、金色的装饰伞和描绘佛祖生平的精美壁画。屋顶装饰着金色和红色,这是泰国北部寺庙设计的典型风格。在整个寺庙中可以看到众多佛像、神龛和小塔,所有这些都反应了对它的尊崇。寺庙各处都有大铜钟,游客可以敲响铜钟祈求好运。

Founded in 1383, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep has a rich history linked to the legend of a sacred white elephant. According to the legend, the elephant carried a holy relic of the Buddha to the top of Doi Suthep and stopped at the site where the temple now stands, indicating that this was the place to build the temple. The relic is said to be enshrined in the temple’s central chedi. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a symbol of Chiang Mai’s religious and cultural heritage. It is not only an architectural marvel but also a deeply spiritual site that draws tourists seeking to connect with Thai Buddhist culture.

素帖双龙寺建于1383年,历史悠久,与一头神圣的白象传说息息相关。据传说,这头白象驮着佛陀的圣物来到素帖山顶,并停在了现在寺庙所在的位置,这些征兆表明这里就是建造寺庙的地方。据说,圣物就供奉在寺庙中央的佛塔。这座寺庙是清迈宗教和文化遗产的象征。它不仅是一座建筑奇迹,也是一个精神圣地,吸引了游客来此了解泰国佛教文化。

This temple is not the summit of this mountain. If visitors continue further up the road, they will reach Bhubing Palace, a royal residence known for its beautiful gardens, and eventually Doi Pui Village. After visiting this temple, I took a songthaew (shared taxi) back down to the city since I didn’t have enough energy to continue hiking. As the one day journey to Doi Suthep comes to an end, the golden glow of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep fades into the soft hues of dusk. Such a trip is really exhausting but mentally refreshing. The journey may be over, but the memory of this experience will always linger.

这座寺庙并不是这座山的顶峰。如果游客继续沿着这条路往前走,他们将到达以美丽花园而闻名的皇宫蒲屏宫,并最终到达 Doi Pui 村。参观完这座寺庙后,由于没有足够的精力继续徒步旅行,我只能乘坐双条车(一种共乘的出租车)返回市区。随着前往素帖山的一日游结束,远眺素帖山的金色光芒逐渐消失在黄昏的柔和色调中。这样的旅行躯体着实疲惫,但精神上却很放松。这次旅程也许已经结束,但旅行的经历却将弥留在脑海中永远挥之不去。

A Pilgrim’s Path: Immersing in the Temples of Chiang Mai

清迈寺庙的沉浸式旅行

In the lush mountainous region of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is a city that beautifully blends ancient tradition with modern allure. Once the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, this city is known for its rich history, stunning temples, and vibrant cultural scene. With a serene backdrop of misty mountains, Chiang Mai offers a unique charm that captivates travelers seeking both adventure and tranquility.

坐落于泰国北部郁郁葱葱的山区中,清迈是一座将古老传统与现代魅力完美融合的城市。这里曾是兰纳王国的首都,以其丰富的历史、令人叹为观止的寺庙和充满活力的文化而闻名。清迈背靠云雾缭绕的群山,拥有独特的魅力吸引着众多寻求冒险和宁静生活的游客。

I visited this beautiful city on December 30th,2023 and stayed here for three days. The most attractive site of Chiang Mai is its old city which lies at the heart of Chiang Mai. It is a nearly perfect square that measures about 1.5 kilometers on each side. This area is defined by its ancient walls and moats, which were originally constructed in the late 13th century during the reign of King Mangrai to protect against invasions and rival kingdoms. Originally, the moat served as a defensive barrier, filled with water to deter invaders. Today, it is a tranquil feature that runs alongside the main roads and is lined with trees, providing a scenic backdrop for the hustle and bustle of city life.

本人于2023年12月 30日参观了这座美丽的城市,并在这里住了三天。清迈最吸引人的地方是位于市中心的老城区。它是一个近乎完美的正方形,每边长约 1. 5公里。这片区域以古老的城墙和护城河为特色,它们最初建于13世纪末曼莱国王统治时期,用于抵御外敌入侵。最初护城河是一道防御屏障,沟壑里注满水以阻止入侵者。如今它已成为一个宁静的景观,河水沿着主要道路延伸,两岸种满树木,在喧嚣的城市生活开辟出一个风景。

The Old City’s walls, although not fully intact, still feature several original and reconstructed sections that mark the perimeter. Four main gates—Tha Phae Gate, Chiang Mai Gate, Suan Dok Gate, and Chang Phuak Gate—serve as entry points and are named after their respective cardinal directions. In any corner of Chiang Mai, I could always see the majestic mountains surrounding the city that create a dramatic and picturesque backdrop. The Doi Suthep in the background rises over 1,600 meters above sea level and is very close to the city center.

古城的城墙虽然并非完好但仍保留着几段原始和后来重建的部分,它们标志着古城的边界。四座主要城门塔佩门、清迈门、松德门和昌普门是古城的四个入口,以各自的方向命名。在清迈的任何一个角落,我都能看到环绕城市的雄伟山脉,它们构成了一幅壮丽的景象。这个照片背景的素贴山海拔1,600多米,距离市中心非常近。

I visited numerous temples from south of the city towards north. Wat Sri Suphan, also known as the Silver Temple, is one of Chiang Mai’s most unique and striking temples. was originally built in 1501 during the reign of King Muang Kaew of the Lanna Kingdom. Over the centuries, it has undergone numerous renovations and expansions. The temple holds great historical significance as it served as a spiritual center for the local community and has been a part of Chiang Mai’s culture for over 500 years.

我从城市南到北参观了众多寺庙。这个照片中的素攀寺,又名银庙,是清迈最独特最引人注目的寺庙之一。它最初建于1501年,当时还是兰纳王国的 Muang Kaew 国王统治时期。几个世纪以来,它经历了多次翻修和扩建。这座寺庙具有重要的历史意义,它代表了当地人民的精神信仰,并且在这五百年间已成为清迈文化的一部分。

Wat Sri Suphan

Located in the traditional silver-making district of Wua Lai, this temple is renowned for its intricate silver decorations and artistry. The entire exterior of the ordination hall (ubosot) is covered in silver, aluminum, and nickel alloy panels, meticulously crafted by local artisans. These panels depict intricate designs and scenes from Buddhist mythology, as well as Lanna culture and history. The entrance to the ordination hall is flanked by elaborately carved Naga (mythical serpent) staircases, which are common in Lanna temple architecture and symbolize protection and prosperity.

这座寺庙位于传统的银器制造区 Wua Lai,以其精致的银饰艺术而闻名。受戒堂 (ubosot) 的整个外部都覆盖着由当地工匠精心制作的由银、铝和镍合金铸成的面板。这些面板描绘了复杂的设计和佛教神话中的一些场景,以及兰纳文化和历史。受戒堂入口两侧是精心雕刻的娜迦形象的楼梯,这种神话种的蛇在兰纳寺庙建筑中很常见,象征着庇护和繁荣。

Wat Phra Singh

Among numerous temples in Chiang Mai, the most famous one was the Wat Phra Singh which was founded in 1345 by King Phayu of the Lanna Kingdom to house the ashes of his father. The temple complex is a prime example of Lanna architectural style. It is a significant pilgrimage site, especially during the Songkran festival (Thai New Year), when the revered Phra Buddha Singh statue is paraded through the streets of Chiang Mai. The temples in Chiang Mai usually include Viharn Lai Kham, Ubosot, Ho Trai, and Chedi.

清迈的众多寺庙中,最著名的是帕辛寺,它由兰纳王国的帕尤国王于1345年建造,用来安放他父亲的骨灰。这座寺庙建筑群是兰纳建筑风格的典范。它是一个重要的朝圣地,尤其是在宋干节(泰国新年)期间,人们会抬着受人尊敬的帕辛佛像穿过清迈的街道。清迈的寺庙结构通常包括主殿、受戒堂、藏经阁和佛塔。

The Viharn Lai Kham or called main chapel is the temple’s most celebrated building, showcasing Lanna architecture. It features a multi-tiered roof, a characteristic element of Lanna temples, which adds to its grandeur. The roof is intricately decorated with gilded naga finials at the ends of each tier, symbolizing protection and fertility. The exterior of the viharn is adorned with exquisite carvings and gilded decorations.

这座主殿是寺庙最出色的建筑,充分展现了兰纳建筑风格。主殿采用多层屋顶,这是兰纳寺庙的典型特征,更显宏伟。屋顶装饰精美,每层顶端都有镀金的龙头饰,象征着庇护和生育。主殿外部装饰有精美的雕刻和镀金装饰。

The entrance is particularly striking, with its intricately carved wooden panels depicting mythical creatures and floral motifs. The gable is richly decorated with gold leaf, and the doorways are framed with delicate, hand-carved wood, showcasing the skill of Lanna artisans.

主殿入口尤为引人注目,其精雕细琢的木板上描绘着神话中的生物和花卉图案。山墙上装饰着金箔,门框上镶着精致的手工雕刻木框,展现了兰纳工匠的精湛技艺。

I lived near this temple and had a chance to visit it at night. This temple is illuminated all though the night and looked more splendid. The Ubosot at Wat Phra Singh, where monks are ordained, is a smaller but equally beautiful structure. It features similar Lanna architectural elements, with a steep, multi-tiered roof and intricate wood carvings. The ubosot is slightly elevated, with a platform surrounded by lotus-shaped boundary stones known as “Bai Sema,” which mark the sacred area. In Thailand, visitors must take off shoes before visiting the interior of any buildings of temples so it is better wear slippers to visit these temples.

我住在这座寺庙附近,因此有机会观赏它的夜景。这座寺庙整夜灯火通明,看起来更加壮丽。Ubosot 一般是僧侣受戒的地方,和主殿比规模较小,但同样美丽壮观。它具有类似的兰纳建筑元素,拥有陡峭的多层屋顶和复杂的木雕。房子整体略高建于平台之上,平台周围环绕着莲花形的界石,称为“Bai Sema”,标志着神圣的区域。在泰国,游客在参观任何寺庙建筑内部都必须脱鞋,因此穿拖鞋参观这些寺庙是最好的选择。

The Ho Trai, or called scripture library, is another example of classic Lanna architecture. This small, square building is elevated on a stone base, with a wooden upper structure. The stone base is often adorned with stucco reliefs depicting mythical creatures such as Garuda and Naga. Traditionally, the Ho Trai is used to store Buddhist scriptures, safeguarding them from insects and moisture. The wooden structure above is beautifully decorated with intricate carvings, gold leaf, and lacquer work, making it a jewel of Lanna design. On the high wall of the library, I can find many Buddha statues in the Chiang Saen style, characterized by their rounded faces, broad shoulders, and serene expressions.

图中的藏经阁是兰纳建筑的另一个典范。这座小巧的方形建筑建在石基上,上部结构为木制。石基上通常装饰有灰泥浮雕,描绘了迦楼罗和那伽等神话生物。传统上,藏经阁用于在高处存放佛经,以防虫蛀和受潮。上方的木制结构装饰精美,有复杂的雕刻、金箔和漆器,是兰纳建筑设计的瑰宝。在藏经阁的高墙上,我可以看到许多清盛风格的佛像,其特点是圆脸、宽肩和平和的表情。

The most prominent building in this temple must be the large, bell-shaped tower. This tower called chedi, was constructed in the classic Lanna style, and has a square base that gradually tapers into a cylindrical shape, crowned with a golden spire. The base of the chedi is adorned with elephant statues, a common motif in Lanna architecture, symbolizing strength and support. The spire is gilded, catching the sunlight and making it a focal point of the temple complex. The chedi is believed to house relics of the Buddha, making it an important site for pilgrims.

这座寺庙最引人注目的建筑一定是巨大的钟形塔。这种塔通常被称为Chedi,采用经典的兰纳风格建造,底座为方形,向上逐渐变细为圆柱形,顶部为金色尖顶。佛塔底座装饰着大象雕像,这是兰纳建筑中的常用的设计方案,象征着力量。镀金的尖顶在阳光下熠熠生辉,使其成为寺庙建筑群的焦点。佛塔内据说藏有佛陀的遗物,因此这座寺庙一直成为朝圣者的圣地。

When I walked through the streets of Chiang Mai, I noticed some tower-like gates. These gates, often known as “Pratu” or “Prasat”, marking the entrance to the sacred temple grounds. These structures can range from simple, elegant designs to more elaborate and intricate constructions. The prasat is characterized by its tall, slender form that tapers as it rises, symbolizing the connection between the earthly realm and the heavens. The gates are typically coated in white stucco, which gives them a pristine, ethereal appearance. The white symbolizes purity and the spiritual sanctity of the temple grounds. This white surface is often contrasted by intricate gilded details, which add a sense of opulence and divine radiance. The gold leaf or gilding is applied to carvings of mythical creatures, floral motifs, and sacred symbols that adorn the gate, creating a striking visual effect.

当我在清迈的街道信步闲庭时,不经意间注意到一些塔状的大门。这些大门通常被称为“Pratu”或“Prasat” 象征着神圣寺庙的入口。这些结构通常可以从简单优雅的设计到更精致和复杂的结构。Prasat 的特点是它高而细长的形状,随着塔的上升而逐渐变细,它象征着人间与天堂之间的联系。大门通常涂有白色的灰泥,使其具有纯净空灵的外观。白色象征着寺庙的纯洁和精神神圣。白色表面通常与复杂的镀金细节形成鲜明对比,增添了富丽堂皇和神圣的感觉。镀金金箔用于装饰大门的神话生物、花卉图案和神圣符号的雕刻,创造了引人注目的视觉效果。

Wat Chedi Luang was another icon monument in Chiang Mai. It was constructed in the 14th century during the reign of King Saen Muang Ma, who intended it to house the ashes of his father. The construction of the chedi took nearly a century, with various additions and renovations made by subsequent rulers. At its peak, the chedi stood at an impressive height of 82 meters, making it the tallest structure in Chiang Mai at the time. However, in 1545, a major earthquake partially destroyed the chedi, reducing its height by almost half.

契迪龙寺是清迈的另一座标志性建筑。它建于14世纪,在国王 Saen Muang Ma 统治时期,他打算将父亲的骨灰安葬于此。这座佛塔耗时近一个世纪才建成,之后的统治者对其进行了多次扩建和翻新。在巅峰时期,佛塔高达82米,是清迈最高的建筑。然而,1545年的一场大地震摧毁了佛塔的部分建筑,使其高度降低了近一半。

When I visited in Thailand, I found some interested cultures. City pillars, known as “Lak Mueang” in Thai, are a kind of sacred pillars found in many cities throughout Thailand. They hold deep cultural and spiritual significance and are considered the spiritual heart of a city. In the corner of this temple, the pillar of Chiang Mai is housed in a small shrine and is a focal point of the annual Inthakin Festival, where locals come to pay respects and make offerings to ensure the city’s prosperity and protection. The shrine itself is a small white and grey colored building in this photo, showcasing ornate Lanna-style carvings and designs.

在泰国旅行时,我发现了一些有趣的文化。泰语中称为“Lak Mueang”,意为城市支柱,它是泰国许多城市中的一根柱子。它们具有深厚的文化和精神意义,被认为是城市的精神支柱。在这座寺庙的一角,清迈的城市支柱被安置在一座小神殿里,它是一年一度的 Inthakin 节的焦点,当地人来这里表达敬意并进行祭拜活动,祈求对城市的保护。神殿本身是这张照片中的一座灰白色的小建筑,展示了华丽的兰纳风格雕刻和设计。

Like other major tempes, Wat Chedi Luang has the main assembly hall where devotees gather to pray and participate in religious ceremonies. It is a large, open structure featuring a multi-tiered roof, supported by massive teak columns. The roof is adorned with naga finials and other intricate woodwork typical of Lanna architecture.

与其他主要寺庙一样,契迪龙寺也拥有主殿,信徒们在此聚集祈祷并参加宗教仪式。这是一座大型开放式建筑,拥有多层屋顶,由巨大的柚木柱支撑。屋顶装饰有龙头饰物和其他典型的兰纳式的复杂木制品。

This is one street view of Chiang Mai. The old city is extremely small but there are numerous unknown temples sitting one by one along the street, reflecting the influence of Buddhism to this city. There are several monuments and iconic temples worthy to visit like Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Chiang Man, and Wat Phra Singh. These places are always overcrowded but tourists could still take their free time to visit others.

这是清迈的一条街景。老城区非常小,但街道两旁却坐落着许多不知名的寺庙,反映出佛教对这座城市的浸润。这里有例如契迪龙寺、清曼寺和帕辛寺等几座值得参观的古迹和标志性寺庙。这些地方总是人满为患,但游客仍然可以利用空闲时间去参观其他的寺庙。

The Monument of the Three Kings

The Monument of the Three Kings, located in the heart of Chiang Mai’s Old City, is one of the most iconic and historically significant landmarks. This monument commemorates the founding of Chiang Mai and honors the three legendary kings who played pivotal roles in its establishment and development. The most prominent of the three, King Mengrai was the founder of Chiang Mai and the first ruler of the Lanna Kingdom. He selected the site for the new capital, Chiang Mai, in 1296, seeking a strategically advantageous location that was well-defended by natural barriers such as rivers and mountains. The ruler of the Sukhothai Kingdom, King Ramkhamhaeng is known for his friendship with King Mengrai. Their alliance strengthened the ties between the Lanna and Sukhothai kingdoms, facilitating cultural exchange. The king of Phayao, King Ngam Muang was another close ally of King Mengrai. The three kings formed a powerful alliance that fostered peace and prosperity in the region. The square where the monument is located is a popular gathering spot for both locals and tourists. It is often used for local festivals and markets.

三王纪念碑位于清迈古城中心,是这里最具标志性和历史意义的地标之一。这座纪念碑是为了纪念清迈的建立,并纪念在清迈的建立和发展中发挥关键作用的三位传奇国王。三王中最著名的是孟莱王,他是清迈的建立者,也是兰纳王国的首任统治者。1296年,他选定了一个具有战略优势、有河流和山脉等天然屏障保护的地点作为新都,这个地方就是清迈。另外素可泰王国的统治者兰甘亨国王以与孟莱国王的友谊而闻名。他们的联盟加强了兰纳王国和素可泰王国之间的联系,促进了文化交流。帕尧国王 Ngam Muang 是孟莱国王的另一位亲密盟友。这三位国王结成了强大的联盟,促进了该地区的和平与繁荣。纪念碑所在的广场是当地人和游客的热门聚会场所。它经常用于举办当地的节日和市场。

Wat Chiang Man

I travelled from the Wat Phra Singh to the north of the city. Wat Chiang Man is the most beautiful temple among so many temples in Chiang Mai in my mind. It is the oldest temple in Chiang Mai and a significant historical and spiritual site, deeply rooted in the city’s history. Founded in 1296, during the reign of King Mengrai, the temple is not only an architectural treasure but also a repository of some of the most revered and ancient Buddha images in Thailand. It has a small garden, filled with various native plants and flowers, adding to the temple’s tranquil atmosphere.

我从帕辛寺一直游到城北。在我心目中,清曼寺是清迈众多寺庙中最美丽的一座。它是清迈最古老的寺庙,也是重要的历史和精神圣地,相关的宗教信仰深深植根于这座城市的历史。这座寺庙建于1296年孟莱王统治时期,不仅是一座建筑瑰宝,也收藏者泰国最受尊敬的古老佛像。寺庙里有一个小花园,里面种满了各种本土植物和花卉,为寺庙增添了宁静的氛围。

One of the most striking features of Wat Chiang Man is the Chedi Chang Lom, also known as the Elephant Chedi. This chedi is a classic example of Lanna architecture, with a square base adorned with 15 life-sized elephant statues. These elephants, made of stucco, appear to be emerging from the base of the chedi. The upper part of the chedi is gilded, catching the sunlight and creating a stunning contrast with the stone and stucco elephants below. This gilded spire is a hallmark of Lanna-style stupas, symbolizing the connection between the earth and the heavens.

清曼寺最引人注目的景点之一是昌隆佛塔,也被称为大象佛塔。这座佛塔是兰纳建筑的典型代表,方形底座上装饰着 15 尊真实大小的大象雕像。这些大象由灰泥制成,仿佛从佛塔底座中出现。佛塔的上半部分完全镀金,反射着阳光,与下面的石头和灰泥大象形成了鲜明的对比。这座镀金尖顶是兰纳风格佛塔的标志,象征着天地之间的联系。

In this temple, green glazed tiles are frequently used on roofs. The green roofs contrast beautifully with the gold and red commonly used in other parts of the temple, creating a visually striking effect that blends with the natural surroundings. Green is often associated with nature, growth, and renewal. In a spiritual context, it can symbolize the idea of life, fertility, and the nurturing aspect of the natural world.

在这座寺庙中,绿色釉面在屋顶上使用很频繁。绿色的屋顶与寺庙常用的金色和红色形成鲜明对比,从而产生了与自然环境融合的视觉效果。绿色通常与自然和繁殖有关。精神层面上它可以象征着生命,生育能力和繁殖。

As the first temple built in Chiang Mai, Wat Chiang Man holds a special place in the hearts of the local people. It has been a center of religious and cultural life for centuries, maintaining its importance through various periods of the city’s history. The main assembly hall houses the state of Phra Sae Tang Khamani (Crystal Buddha).The temple is especially important during Thai New Year (Songkran), when it becomes a focal point for religious activities and celebrations.

作为在清迈建造的第一座寺庙,清曼寺在当地人民的心中占有特殊的位置。几个世纪以来,它一直是宗教和文化生活的中心,在城市历史的各个时期保持重要性。主殿收藏着水晶佛。在泰国新年中,这座寺庙尤为重要,它一直是宗教和庆祝活动的中心。

Wat Lok Moli

Continuing walking towards north, I arrived at the Wat Lok Moli near the Chang Phuak Gate. Its architecture looked a bit different. Wat Lok Moli built in the 14th century stands out for its connection to the Mengrai Dynasty, which played a crucial role in the history of the Lanna Kingdom. The entrance to Wat Lok Moli left me deep impression. This gate is tower-like and richly decorated, featuring intricate woodwork and symbolic imagery.

继续向北走,我到达了昌普门附近的罗摩利寺。它的建筑风格有些不同。罗摩利寺建于14世纪,因其与孟莱王朝的联系而闻名,孟莱王朝在兰纳王国的历史上发挥了至关重要的作用。罗摩利寺的入口给我留下了深刻的印象。这座门像佛塔一样,华丽装饰着复杂的木工和象征性的图腾。

For every temple in Chiang Mai, the most prominent architecture must be the chedi. Unlike other temples, the chedi at Wat Lok Moli has been left largely unplastered, giving it a rustic and ancient appearance. The weathered bricks and the absence of stucco decoration highlight the raw beauty and historical authenticity of the structure.

对于清迈的每座寺庙来说,最突出的建筑一定是佛塔。与其他寺庙不同,罗摩利寺的佛塔大部分没有涂抹灰泥,呈现出一种质朴而古老的外观。风化的砖块和光秃秃的表面凸显了建筑的原始美感和历史真实性。

Wat Umong Mahathera Chan

Except the major tourist attractions, I visited some small temples as well. Wat Umong Mahathera Chan is a lesser-known but historically significant temple located in the heart of Chiang Mai’s Old City. The temple is often overshadowed by more famous sites, yet it holds its own unique charm and importance.

除了主要的旅游景点,我还参观了一些小寺庙。乌蒙玛哈泰拉禅寺是一座鲜为人知但具有重要历史意义的寺庙,位于清迈古城中心。这座寺庙的风采经常被其他著名景点所掩盖,但它却拥有自己独特的魅力和重要性。

Wat Umong Mahathera Chan is notable for its historical architecture, including several ancient structures that reflect the rich heritage of the Lanna Kingdom. The old chedis at Wat Umong Mahathera Chan are typically constructed in the Lanna style, characterized by a bell-shaped base that tapers into a spire at the top. The chedis are usually built from brick and stucco, with the surfaces often covered in layers of weathered plaster, giving them an aged, venerable appearance.

乌蒙寺以其历史建筑而闻名,其中包括几座反映兰纳王国丰富遗产的古老建筑。乌蒙寺的古老佛塔通常采用兰纳风格建造,其特点是底座呈钟形,顶部逐渐变细为尖顶。佛塔通常用砖和灰泥建造,表面通常覆盖着一层层风化的石膏,使其看起来古老而庄严。

The base of the chedis is generally square or octagonal, with multiple tiers that create a sense of elevation. Each tier is often adorned with decorative motifs, such as lotus petals, which are common in Lanna architecture. The central part of the chedi, shaped like an inverted bell, is the most prominent feature. This section may be plain or decorated with stucco reliefs, sometimes featuring images of the Buddha, floral patterns, or mythical creatures like Nagas (serpents). The spire, or the uppermost section, tapers gracefully into a pointed tip, symbolizing the Buddhist path to enlightenment. The spire often includes a series of rings or parasol-like structures known as “chatra,” which are emblematic of royalty and spiritual authority.

佛塔的底座通常是方形或八角形,有多层结构,营造出一种高耸的感觉。每层都装饰有例如莲花瓣的图案,这在兰纳建筑中特别普遍。佛塔的中央部分形似倒置的钟,这部分可能是最简单朴素的,也可装饰有佛像、花卉图案或纳迦等神话生物为特色的灰泥浮雕。塔顶即最上层的部分,优雅地逐渐变细最后形成尖头,它象征着佛教的开悟之路。塔尖通常包括一系列被称为“chatra”的环形或阳伞状结构,象征着皇室和精神权威。

This kind of water jars, often made of stone or ceramics, are commonly placed around temple grounds as decorative elements. The jars are usually filled with water, and the lotus flowers are planted in them floating on the surface. The purple lotus is a beautiful and symbolic element commonly found in Thai temples. The lotus is a powerful symbol in Buddhism, representing purity, enlightenment, and spiritual rebirth.

图中这种石头或陶瓷制成水罐,通常放置在寺庙周围作为装饰元素。水罐注满水,莲花漂浮在水面上。紫色莲花是泰国寺庙中常见的美丽而具有象征意义的元素。莲花是佛教中代表着纯洁、启蒙和精神重生的象征。

I noticed that there were always interior paintings in the halls of Thai temples, often depicting scenes from Buddhist mythology, the life of the Buddha, and traditional Lanna culture. One of the most common themes in temple murals is the Jataka tales, which are stories of the Buddha’s past lives. These stories are illustrated in a series of panels, each representing different moral lessons, such as compassion, self-sacrifice, and wisdom. Some murals often depict key events in the life of the historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama.

我注意到泰国寺庙的主殿大厅里总是装饰着一些室内绘画,它们通常描绘的是佛教神话、佛陀生平和传统兰纳文化的场景。寺庙壁画中最常见的主题之一是《本生经》,即佛陀前世的故事。这些故事以一系列故事在面板上连续呈现,每个面板代表不同的道德教训,例如同情、自我牺牲和智慧。另一些壁画则描绘历史上佛陀乔达摩悉达多一生中的关键事件。

Except the old temples, the remnants of city gate marked the city’s history as well. The Tha Phae Gate is one of the most iconic landmarks in Chiang Mai, serving as a historical and cultural symbol of the city. Located on the eastern side of old city, the Tha Phae Gate is part of the ancient city wall established in 1296 by King Mengrai, the founder of the Lanna Kingdom. The original gate has been restored multiple times over the centuries. The current structure, with its distinctive red brick facade, is a result of renovations done in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, Tha Phae Gate is more than just a historical structure; it is a vibrant cultural hub. The area around the gate hosts various events and celebrations like the countdown 2024.

除了古老的寺庙,城门遗迹也见证着这座城市的历史。塔佩门是清迈最具标志性的地标之一,是这座城市的历史和文化象征。塔佩门位于老城东侧,是兰纳王国建立者孟莱王于 1296年修建的古城墙的一部分。几个世纪以来,最初的城门经过多次修复。当前建筑结构独特的红砖外墙是19世纪和20世纪翻修的结果。如今,塔佩门不仅仅是一座历史建筑,更是一个充满活力的文化中心。城门周围会举办例如2024年新年倒计时等各种庆祝活动。

I have visited more than 50 temples in Chiang Mai and cannot list them one by one. Every temple has the chedi of different styles. These are the treasure of this city. This temple in the photo is the Haripunchai style which originates from the ancient Mon kingdom of Haripunchai, predating the Lanna Kingdom in the Chiang Mai region. This style is considered to be an earlier influence on Lanna architecture. Unlike the square bases of Lanna chedis, Haripunchai-style chedis often have a rounded or cylindrical base. These chedis may have a series of diminishing tiers stacked above the base, each decorated with small niches or Buddha images. The use of lotus petal motifs around the base and along the tiers is a distinctive feature of this style.

我总共参观过清迈50多座寺庙,无法这里一一列出。这里每座寺庙都有不同风格的佛塔。它们是这座城市的瑰宝。照片中的这座寺庙为哈利朋猜风格,源自古老的孟王国,这个王国历史早于清迈地区的兰纳王国。这种风格对兰纳建筑产生了早期影响。与兰纳佛塔的方形底座不同,哈利朋猜风格的佛塔通常具有圆形或圆柱形底座。这些佛塔的底座上方堆叠着一系列逐渐减小的层级,每层都装饰有小壁龛或佛像。底座周围和各层级上使用莲花瓣图案是这种风格的显著特征。

This is the tower of the Sri Lankan style, also known as Sinhalese or Anuradhapura style, which was introduced to Thailand through Theravada Buddhism. This style is characterized by its simplicity and smooth, rounded forms, representing purity and the Buddhist ideal of simplicity. The chedi is usually a smooth, rounded bell shape with little to no ornate decoration, emphasizing the purity and simplicity of the form. The dome has a simple spire on top. Unlike the more ornate Lanna style, Sri Lankan-style chedis are typically plain, focusing on the form rather than decorative details.

这是斯里兰卡风格的佛塔,也被称为僧伽罗风格或阿努拉德普勒风格,通过上座部佛教传入泰国。这种风格的特点是简洁的圆形,代表纯洁和佛教的简朴理想。佛塔通常是圆钟形,几乎没有华丽的装饰,强调了形式的纯洁和简朴。圆顶上有一个简单的尖顶。与更华丽的兰纳风格不同,斯里兰卡风格的佛塔通常很朴素,注重形式而不是装饰细节。

Due to Chiang Mai’s historical connections with Burma, Burmese-style chedis can also be found in the region. These chedis are influenced by the architecture of the Pagan era. Burmese chedis often have a stepped, pyramid-like structure with a series of terraces leading up to the spire. The chedis are typically more ornate than the Sri Lankan style, with intricate carvings and reliefs, often featuring scenes from the Jataka tales. The spire, often crowned with a multi-tiered umbrella, is a key feature, symbolizing the axis of the world in Buddhist cosmology.

由于清迈与缅甸的历史渊源,该地区也有缅甸风格的佛塔。这些佛塔受到异教时代建筑的影响。缅甸佛塔通常采用阶梯式金字塔结构,一系列露台通向塔尖。这些佛塔通常比斯里兰卡风格的佛塔更华丽,雕刻和浮雕也很精美,它们通常以《本生经》故事中的场景为特色。塔尖通常顶部有多层伞状结构,是其主要特征,象征着佛教宇宙观中的世界轴心。

Although not as numerous as other styles, Khmer-style chedis can still be found in and around Chiang Mai, showcasing the historical connections between the region and the Khmer civilization. The most recognizable feature of Khmer-style chedis is their prasat, a tower-like structure that resembles the central sanctuary of a Khmer temple. The base of a Khmer-style chedi is usually stepped, with multiple levels or terraces leading up to the central tower. In Chiang Mai, some Khmer-style chedis integrate elements of the local Lanna style, including stupa-like structures that blend the Khmer tower. This fusion creates a unique architectural form that reflects the cultural exchange between the Khmer and Lanna civilizations.

虽然数量不如其他风格那么多,但高棉风格的佛塔在清迈及其周边地区仍可见到,展现了该地区与高棉文明之间的历史联系。高棉风格佛塔最显著的特征是一种类似于高棉寺庙中央圣殿的塔式结构。高棉风格佛塔的底座通常是阶梯式的,有多个楼层或露台通向中央塔。在清迈,一些高棉风格的佛塔融合了当地兰纳风格的元素,包括与高棉中央塔融为一体的佛塔式结构。这种融合创造了一种独特的建筑形式,反映了高棉和兰纳文明之间的文化交流。

In the evening, I took some time to leisurely stroll around the Nimman Road and experienced the night life here. This road is outside the old city, and it is known for its eclectic mix of cafes, restaurants, boutique shops, and art galleries. Nimman Road is famous for its coffee culture, with a wide array of unique and stylish cafes. When the sun set, it is a place where traditional Thai culture meets modern global influences.

傍晚,我悠闲地在宁曼路漫步,感受这里的夜生活。这条路位于老城区外,以咖啡馆、餐厅、精品店和艺术画廊等各式各样的商店而闻名。宁曼路更以咖啡文化而闻名旅游圈,拥有众多独特而时尚的咖啡馆。当太阳落山时,这里是传统泰国文化与全球的现代影响碰撞的地方。

I tasted the Mango sticky rice in one of the stores here. The sticky rice, also known as glutinous rice, is the foundation of this dessert. It’s soaked, steamed, and then mixed with sweetened coconut milk to create a rich, creamy base. The mango adds a natural sweetness and juicy, refreshing texture to the dish, contrasting beautifully with the sticky rice. A key element of mango sticky rice is the coconut milk sauce, which is made by simmering coconut milk with sugar and a pinch of salt until it thickens slightly. The coconut milk sauce is often poured over the rice. This dish is one of Thailand’s most beloved desserts. It perfectly balances the sweet, creamy, and slightly salty flavors.

我在一家甜品店里品尝了芒果糯米饭。糯米是这种甜点的基础。它经过浸泡、蒸熟,然后与加糖的椰奶混合,形成浓郁的奶油状基底。芒果为这道菜增添了天然的甜味和多汁、清爽的口感,与糯米形成了绝妙的对比。芒果糯米饭的一个关键元素是椰奶酱汁,它是将椰奶与糖和少许盐一起煮至略微变稠而制成的。这种椰奶在上桌前通常直接倒在米饭上。这道菜是泰国最受欢迎的甜点之一。它完美地平衡了甜味、奶油味和微咸的味道。

As my journey through Chiang Mai came to a close, I found myself reflecting on the myriad experiences that have woven together to create a tapestry of memories from the serene temples to the bustling markets. Chiang Mai is a place where the old and the new coexist in harmony. It’s a city that invites you to slow down, to fully relax, to savor the details. As I left Chiang Mai, I carried with me not just souvenirs and photographs, but a deeper appreciation for the Lanna culture of North Thailand.

尽管我的清迈之旅已经完结,自己经常回想起那些交织在一起的往事,从宁静的寺庙到熙熙攘攘的市场,这些经历交织在一起,形成了一幅一幅的画卷。清迈是一个历史和现代和谐共存的地方。这座城市令人可以放慢脚步,完全放松地细细品味细节。离开清迈时,我带走的不仅仅是纪念品和照片,还有对泰国北部兰纳文化的更深层次的了解。