Life Inside Fujian’s Ancient Earthen Homes

走进福建古土楼的烟火人生

Fujian Tulou are traditional communal residences built by the Hakka and other Han Chinese people in the mountainous areas of Fujian Province. These large, earthen buildings are circular or square, designed to house multiple families, functioning both as homes and fortresses. Constructed between the 12th and 20th centuries, tulou structures are made from rammed earth, mixed with stones, bamboo, wood, and other natural materials. Their thick walls provide insulation and protection from bandits and natural disasters. Inside, the buildings are arranged around a central courtyard, with rooms for storage, cooking, sleeping, and socializing.

福建土楼,是福建省山区由客家人及其他汉族群体共同建造的传统集体居所。这些宏伟的建筑多呈圆形或方形,可容纳众多家庭同住,既是安居之所,也是防御之堡。土楼自12世纪起兴建,延续至20世纪,主要以夯土筑成,并辅以石块、竹材、木料等天然材料。厚实的墙体既能隔热御寒,又可抵御盗匪侵扰与自然灾害。其内部空间环绕中央庭院而布置,庭院内设有储藏间、灶房、卧室与公共活动空间。

I visited the Nanjing area in the end of 2024. The village scene in this region is a picturesque blend of traditional architecture, lush nature, and communal rural life. Rolling hills and mountains surround the villages, covered with bamboo groves, pine forests, and terraced tea fields. Clear streams run through the valleys, beside narrow stone paths. Fog settles over the mountains in the early morning, creating a mystical, tranquil atmosphere.

2024年底,我来到南靖游览。这里的乡村景致宛如画卷,传统建筑与葱郁的自然风光、淳朴的乡村生活交织在一起。连绵起伏的丘陵环抱着村落,竹林、松林与层层梯田茶园点缀山野。清澈的溪流在谷间潺潺流淌,两旁蜿蜒着古老的石板路。清晨时分,薄雾弥漫群山,氤氲出一种静谧而神秘的气息。

Life in these villages follows the rhythm of nature. The air is filled with the scent of wood smoke, fresh soil, and steaming food. Stone-paved paths wind through the village, often lined with moss and wildflowers. Several tulous are grouped together, forming a cluster of earthen castles amidst the green backdrop.

这些村庄的生活仿佛随自然的节拍缓缓展开。空气中弥散着柴火的余温、泥土的清新与热气腾腾食物的芬芳。石板小路蜿蜒穿行于村中,两侧常覆着青苔,点缀着野花。几座土楼错落而立,如同质朴的堡垒,静静镶嵌在层叠的绿意之间。

My travel in Fujian was really refreshing for me. As I stepped away from the fast-paced, high-rise rhythm of life in Singapore, I felt a deep wave of relief and excitement wash over me. It was as if the noise, the deadlines, and the constant rush melted away the moment I arrived in this serene village. The tranquil rhythm of rural life: the slow mornings, the sound of roosters, the sight of villagers tending to their fields awakened something in me. I felt no longer tethered to my phone or the clock and found the meaning of life.

福建之行让我身心焕然一新。远离新加坡快节奏、高楼林立的都市生活,我仿佛卸下了沉重的枷锁,一股久违的解脱与欣喜油然而生。所有的喧嚣、deadline与无休止的奔波,都在我踏入这片宁静村落的瞬间悄然消散。这里的生活节奏恬淡安然:清晨的微风伴着公鸡的啼鸣,田间劳作的身影映入眼帘,这一切唤醒了我内心深处的宁静与安定。我仿佛挣脱了手机与时钟的羁绊,重新找回了生活的意义。

Hegui Lou is one of the most remarkable and unique tulou structures. It was my first tulou visited in this area. Built in 1732, Hegui Lou is a square-shaped building, with four stories and over 200 rooms. The name “Hegui” means “Harmony and Nobility”, symbolizing unity and high moral values of the clan. I was standing at the entrance set within thick rammed earth walls. The wooden door panels are thick and reinforced with iron studs and metal strips. Over the door, I found a solemn and ancient wooden plaque bearing its name as well as poetic couplets written on red scrolls.

和贵楼是当地最引人注目极具特色的土楼之一,也是我在此参观的第一座土楼。始建于1732年,它呈方形结构,共四层,拥有两百余间房。楼名“和贵”,寓意和谐与高贵,象征着家族的团结与高尚品德。踏入厚实的夯土墙之内,首先映入眼帘的是以铁钉与金属条牢牢加固的沉重木门。门上悬挂着一方题有楼名的木匾,两侧则贴着写有红字的对联,庄重而古雅。

What makes it especially unique is that it was built on a marshland, an uncommon choice for such heavy structures. Its foundation is made of wooden stakes, driven deep into the soft soil. The building’s rammed earth walls, more than a meter thick, have withstood floods, earthquakes, and wars for nearly 300 years. Above the entrance are some small observation windows, used historically to monitor approaching visitors or defend against intruders. Red lanterns hang along the eaves and add a splash of color and warmth to the austere and simple appearance.

它的独特之处在于建于沼泽之上,这在如此厚重的建筑中极为罕见。地基由木桩深深扎入松软的泥土,以支撑整个庞然大物。厚逾一米的夯土墙,经受了近三百年的洪水、地震与战火的洗礼,依然巍然屹立。入口上方开有数扇小窗,昔日用于监视访客或抵御外敌。屋檐下悬挂的红灯笼,则为这素朴的外观平添一抹温暖与生气。

Behind the towering earthen walls of Hegui Lou, at the edge of a gently sloping field, lies a lush patch of sugar cane. The tall, green stalks sway lightly in the breeze. The field is small but thriving, a reminder of the self-sufficient lifestyle the residents have upheld for generations. A local resident fed long stalks of sugar cane into a hand-cranked press. The machine groans slightly as the stalks are crushed, releasing a stream of cool, pale green juice.

和贵楼高耸的土墙背后,在缓坡田野的尽头,生长着一片繁茂的甘蔗。高大而碧绿的甘蔗秆随微风轻轻摇曳。虽不成规模,却生机盎然,仿佛映照着当地人世代自给自足的生活。只见一位居民将长长的甘蔗送入手摇榨汁机,伴随轻微的嘎吱声,坚韧的蔗秆被慢慢压碎,涓涓淡绿色的汁液随之流出,清凉甘甜。

I lived in the small town called Yun Shuiyao for two days. Its name, which translates to “Ballad of Cloud and Water”, perfectly captures the town’s dreamlike atmosphere. It is surrounded by lush green hills and rice paddies. The streets of Yunshuiyao are paved with smooth river stones, worn by time and footsteps. Traditional wooden houses line the narrow lanes and their dark tiled roofs and red lanterns show the town’s historic charm.

我在云水谣小镇住了两天。小镇的名字完美地诠释了如梦似幻的氛围。周围环绕着郁郁葱葱的青山和稻田。云水谣的街道铺满了光滑的河石,饱经岁月和脚步的侵蚀。传统的木屋排列在狭窄的小巷里,深色的瓦片屋顶和红色的灯笼彰显着小镇的历史魅力。

The most iconic feature of the town is the meandering river that flows gently through it, reflecting the sky and the trees on its calm surface. Along its banks, there are massive ancient banyan trees, some over 800 years old, with their gnarled roots sprawling across stone paths and their branches forming a canopy overhead. I really enjoyed the life here, listening to the soft murmur of the stream and the whisper of wind through bamboo. Time seemed to slow down here.

小镇最具标志性的景观,莫过于那条蜿蜒流淌的河流。平静的水面如一面明镜,将天空与树木的倒影温柔地揽入怀中。河岸两旁矗立着参天古树,其中不少已有八百余年树龄,盘根错节的根须蜿蜒在石板路上,枝叶繁茂,织就一片片清凉的浓荫。在这里生活,我倍感宁静,耳畔萦绕着潺潺溪水与竹林间轻柔的风声,仿佛时光都慢了下来。

Yunshuiyao became well-known after it was featured in the Chinese romantic film “The Knot”. Scattered throughout Yunshuiyao are several well-preserved tulous, which have been home to generations of Hakka families. These earthen fortresses blend beautifully into the natural landscape, offering a sense of community, security, and tradition.

小镇因中国爱情电影《云水谣》的取景而名声远扬。云水谣田间点缀着几座保存完好的土楼,昔日是客家人世代安居的家园。土楼与周围的山水风光相映成趣,营造出浓厚的社区氛围、安宁的归属感与深厚的传统意蕴。

Huaiyuan Lou is the most well-preserved and architecturally representative tulou in Fujian Province. Built in 1905 during the late Qing Dynasty, it was constructed by the Jiang family, who were prosperous tea merchants and landowners. The name means ‘Cherishing Distant’ in Chinese. The structure is made with rammed earth walls, over 1 meter thick, supported by a wooden framework that has stood firm for over a century. There is only one heavily fortified gate connecting inside and outside.

怀远楼是福建省保存最完好、最具代表性的土楼。它建于清末民初的1905年,由富商兼地主蒋氏家族兴建,其名字意为“怀念远方”。楼体以夯土筑墙,厚逾一米,坚固的木构架支撑着整座建筑,百年风雨仍巍然屹立。楼内外仅开一扇坚固的大门供人们进出。

It has two concentric rings. The outer ring is four stories high, with 32 rooms per floor, housing sleeping quarters and storage. The timber beams, columns, and staircases are arranged in concentric rings to create tiers of rooms stacked three to five stories high. The upper structures are capped with tiled, slightly upturned eaves, supported by a web of timber rafters. Rainwater is efficiently drained into the inner courtyard. Wooden columns are joined by horizontal beams using traditional mortise-and-tenon techniques without nails.

它由两个同心圆环组成。外环高四层,每层设有32间房间,用作居舍和储藏室。木梁、木柱与楼梯环环相扣,形成三至五层高的层叠房间。上部结构铺以瓦片,屋檐微微翘起,由木椽稳稳支撑。雨水被巧妙地引入内院。木柱与横梁之间采用传统榫卯工艺,无需钉子即可紧密结合。

The inner ring is smaller and contains ancestral halls and communal spaces. Central to Hakka belief is the idea that deceased ancestors continue to watch over and protect their descendants. Showing respect through rituals ensures family prosperity and avoids misfortune. Ancestral hall with an altar, ancestral tablets, and painted couplets is the most important building. Wells, kitchens, and storerooms are placed in this area for communal use.

内环规模较小,内部设有祠堂与公共空间。客家人的信仰核心在于祖先会持续守护后代,当代人通过仪式对祖先表达敬意,以保家族兴旺、避祸免灾。祠堂是最为重要的建筑,内部设有祭坛、祖先牌位及对联。水井、厨房和储藏室亦位于此处,供居民日常使用。

This is the panoramic view. The central courtyard is paved with cobblestones, where daily life and communal events unfold. The interior reflects a highly organized lifestyle, with rooms assigned by generation and seniority. Decorative wooden carvings, ancestral tablets, and red lanterns enhance the cultural richness of the space.

这是庭院全景。中央庭院铺有鹅卵石,是日常生活和社区活动的场所。室内空间体现了高度有序的生活方式,房间按辈分和资历划分。装饰性的木雕、祖先牌位和红灯笼突现了这里的文化底蕴。

Unlike some older tulou, Huaiyuan Lou remains largely intact and still functions as a living residence. Residents still live in the building, maintaining traditional Hakka customs, such as ancestral worship, communal cooking, and shared farming. I was able to climb up the floors and see the local life. Outside wooden railings, freshly washed clothes are hung out to dry. Shirts, pants, and towels flap gently in the mountain breeze, swaying against the red backdrop of the wooden walls.

与一些年久失修的土楼不同,怀远楼几乎完好无损,如今仍作为民居使用。楼中的居民延续着传统客家习俗:祭祖、共炊、共耕,生活气息浓厚。我沿着几层楼梯缓缓而上,静静观察这里的日常。楼外的木栏杆上晾着刚洗净的衣物,衬衫、裤子和毛巾在山风中轻轻摆动,在红色木墙的映衬下,显得生动而富有韵律。

Along sunny spots, residents have laid out trays filled with vegetables like sliced radishes, chili peppers, and bamboo shoots to dry under the afternoon sun. The air is filled with a subtle mix of earthy, sun-baked scents. Homemade sausages or strips of cured meat are also strung up on wooden poles, slowly aging in the open air. It was really an interesting and unique trip to see the Hakka’s life that I have never experienced. The Hakka is a subgroup of the Han Chinese people with their own distinct language, culture, and traditions. They traced their roots to northern China, but over centuries, they migrated southward due to wars, famine, and social unrest. They settled mainly in southern provinces such as Guangdong, Fujian, and Jiangxi. Because they often arrived as migrants or newcomers, they were called “guest families” by local populations.

阳光充足的地方,居民们会将托盘摆放整齐,里面盛满了萝卜片、辣椒和竹笋等蔬菜,在午后的阳光下缓缓晾晒。空气中弥漫着泥土的芳香与阳光轻轻烘烤蔬菜的微妙气息。自制的香肠和腌肉条也被挂在木杆上,在露天中慢慢熟化。这次旅程既有趣又独特,让我得以深入了解客家人的生活,这是我此前从未体验过的。客家人是汉族的一个分支,拥有独特的语言、文化和传统。他们的祖源可追溯至中国北方,但几个世纪以来,由于战争、饥荒和社会动荡,他们不断南迁,最终主要定居在广东、福建和江西等南方省份。由于他们多为移民或新迁入的群体,当地人称他们为客居的人。

In the courtyard stands an ancient stone well, a silent witness to centuries of life unfolding within the earthen walls. The inside of well is surrounded by a simple stone curb, its surface now softened by a thick blanket of green moss. Tiny droplets of water glisten on the moss in the morning light. The well still provides clear and deep water to the local residents who lower a metal bucket on a rope, drawing water with a slow rhythm in the same way their ancestors did a hundred years ago.

庭院中央,矗立着一口古老的石井,静静守望着土墙内百年的光阴。井旁环绕着简朴的石栏,如今厚厚的绿色苔藓悄然覆盖其壁,表面柔和如绒。晨光洒下,细小的水珠在苔藓间闪烁微光。时至今日,这口井仍为村民提供清澈而深邃的水源。他们用绳索系着金属桶,缓缓汲水,仿佛与百年前的祖先在时间里默契相连。

I took two days to travel all the scenic areas. On the second day, I visited the Tianluokeng which is the most iconic and most photographed tulou sites. Located on a terraced hillside, the cluster is called the “Four Dishes and One Soup” because of its unique layout. One square tulou (the “soup”) sits in the middle. Surrounding it are four round tulous (the “four dishes”). There is a platform on the roadside for travelers to take photos.

我总共经历两天时间游遍了南靖土楼的所有景区。第二天,我参观了田螺坑景区,它是最具标志性、拍照最多的土楼群落。田螺坑土楼群坐落在梯田般的山坡上,因其独特的布局而被称为 “四菜一汤”。一座方形土楼(“汤”)坐落在中间,周围环绕着四座圆形土楼(“四菜”)。路边有一个平台,供游客拍照。

Afterwards, I went down the staircases and visited them one by one. Built between the 15th and 20th centuries, these tulous with similar thick rammed-earth walls showcase the Hakka people’s communal living as well but they are smaller than the Huaiyuan Lou I visited the last day.

之后我顺着楼梯走下,逐一参观。这些土楼建于15世纪至20世纪之间,同样有着厚实的夯土墙,展现了客家人的集体生活,但比我前一天参观的怀远楼要小一些。

This cluster sits in a valley, surrounded by layer upon layer of rice terraces that climb the slopes of the green mountains. From above, the terraces look like rippling steps carved into the hillside. Traditionally, these terraces were cultivated with rice as the staple crop, sustained by ingenious irrigation systems that channel mountain spring water down through the fields.

这片梯田隐匿在山谷之间,层层叠叠,如同青山绿水间自然铺开的画卷。俯瞰之下,梯田宛若山坡上轻轻荡开的涟漪,随山势起伏。这里传统上种植水稻,巧妙的灌溉系统将清澈的山泉引入田间,滋养着每一层梯田,使其生机盎然。

In Hakka and Fujian villages, it’s very common to see foods being sun-dried for preservation. These colorful trays containing food are set out in courtyards and rooftop around tulou walls. Most of these foods are corn kernels which are golden yellow, often filling the whole tray, soybeans dried for making tofu, sweet potatoes which are sliced into thin pieces to make dried snacks, and scented tea leaves.

在客家与福建的村落中,晒干食物以备保存是一种常见的习俗。五彩斑斓的托盘中盛满了各类食材,整齐地摆放在土楼的庭院和屋顶上。托盘里常见的有金黄饱满的玉米粒;用于制豆腐的大豆;切成薄片晾晒的红薯干;以及清香的茶叶。

In late winter, when the air is crisp and less humid, families hang long strings of sausages across bamboo poles, or on wooden racks in open courtyards. The sight of these dark red sausages glistening in the sunlight is a hallmark of traditional Hakka villages. The sausage is made by fresh pork. The meat is mixed with salt, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, and sometimes five-spice powder or peppercorns. The seasoned meat is stuffed into natural casings, then tied into uniform lengths. The sausages are hung outdoors to dry naturally for 1–2 weeks. Deeply savory with a balance of saltiness and gentle sweetness from rice wine and sugar.

冬末,空气清爽,湿气渐消,家家户户都会把长长的香肠串挂在竹竿上,或放在露天庭院的木架上。这些深红色的香肠在阳光下闪闪发光,是传统客家村落的一大特色。香肠采用新鲜猪肉制成,肉中混合盐、米酒、酱油、糖,有时还会加入五香粉或花椒。将调味好的肉馅塞入天然肠衣,然后捆成均匀的长度。香肠会被悬挂在户外自然风干1-2周。咸香浓郁,米酒和糖带来的柔和甜味恰到好处。

The central square tulou called Buyunlou is the oldest structure of the cluster, built first by the ancestor of the family. Later generations expanded around it with round tulou. The square form is structurally simpler and sturdier to build, especially in earlier times when techniques were less advanced. Once wealth and skills grew, round tulou became more common. The square tulou in the middle acted like a fortified core, with the outer round tulou forming an additional layer of protection. Together, the cluster functioned almost like a miniature walled city.

位于中心的方形土楼被称为步云楼,是整个土楼群中最古老的建筑,最初由家族祖先建造。后世在其周围扩建,建造了圆形土楼。方形土楼结构更简单,也更坚固,尤其是在技术欠发达的早期。随着财富和技艺的提升,圆形土楼变得更加普遍。中间的方形土楼如同坚固的核心,外围的圆形土楼则构成了额外的保护层。整个土楼群就像一座微型城墙环绕的城市。

In the afternoon, I took bus and continued the travel in the Taxia Village which is part of the Tianluokeng Scenic Area. It’s a well‑preserved example of Hakka culture and architecture. I enjoyed the scene of a “water town” combined with tulou architecture. When I walked among rural terrain, small bridges, cobblestones, I could see local everyday life.

下午,我乘车前往田螺坑风景区的塔下村。这里保存着完整的客家文化建筑。我欣赏着“水乡”与土楼建筑的融合。漫步在乡村的田园风光、小桥流水、鹅卵石铺就的路面上,感受着当地人的日常生活。

The houses are constructed from blue-gray bricks, which age into a weathered, darker tone over time. Roofs are made with traditional gray clay tiles, sometimes glazed in deeper tones for water resistance. They are rectangular and one to two stories tall. Most of them are built closely along the stone-paved lanes or beside the winding stream. From a distance, I felt that the rooftops formed a soft ripple across the valley, framed by green mountains.

这些房屋由蓝灰色的砖块砌成,岁月在砖面上留下斑驳的痕迹,使其愈发沉稳沧桑。屋顶覆以传统的灰色陶瓦,有时为了防水,还会施上一层深色釉面。房屋多为一至两层的长方形建筑,紧邻石板路或蜿蜒的小溪而立。远远望去,屋顶在山谷间宛如柔和的涟漪,群山翠绿环绕,景色静谧而悠远。

I visited one house compound belonging to Zhang Family. It has stone steps at door, small walled courtyards, and wooden window frames. It was built along the central stream, with bridges connecting them. Its layout includes gate, front hall, main sacrificial hall, with left-side and right-side chambers.

我参观了张家的一处古院。入口处铺着石阶,院内环绕着围墙,木框窗棂透着古朴气息。院落沿着中央的小溪而建,溪上有桥相连。整体布局井然,有大门、前殿和主祭殿,左右两侧则是对称的厢房。

This is used as the clan shrine of the Zhang family, used for ancestor worship, clan ceremonies, rituals, and as a symbol of the Zhang clan’s history and status in the village. Built in the late Ming dynasty, over 400 years old. The gate is decorated with vivid motifs, notably “two dragons playing with a pearl”, inlaid with colored ceramic chips. Roof ridges, eaves, and parapets are ornate, with porcelain reliefs or ceramic decorations depicting legends.

这是张氏家族的宗祠,用于祭祀祖先、举行宗族仪式,同时象征着张氏家族在村落中的历史与地位。建于明末,已有四百余年历史。门楼装饰精美,尤其以“二龙戏珠”的图案最为生动,并镶嵌着色彩斑斓的陶片。屋脊、屋檐及女儿墙装饰华丽,点缀着描绘传说故事的瓷浮雕与陶瓷装饰,尽显古朴与雅致。

One of the most striking features in front of the hall are the stone flagpoles rising from the stone slab near the pond. There are many of them and they are over 10 meters high. They are richly carved and serve as memorials to clan members who achieved official or civil/military ranks or otherwise made contributions. The latest family member carved on the pole is one student went overseas, studying in MIT.

堂前最引人注目的景观之一是从池塘边石板上拔地而起的石旗杆。这些石旗杆数量众多,高达十多米。旗杆上雕刻着精美的图案,用于纪念家族中功成名就、文武双全或做出贡献的成员。旗杆上雕刻的最新一位家庭成员是一位留学生,目前就读于麻省理工学院。

During my trip, I found that the Hakka people have a culture deeply shaped by migration, resilience, and unity. Though historically considered “guests” , they forged strong, close-knit communities wherever they settled. At the heart of Hakka culture lies a powerful sense of clan. This isn’t just about bloodline but it’s a living, breathing system of values, rituals, and responsibilities. In every generation, Hakka people honor their ancestors through ancestral halls. Family histories are remembered. Even those who’ve migrated abroad trace their roots back to the clan village.

在我的旅程中,我感受到客家文化深受迁徙历程、坚韧精神与团结力量的熏陶。尽管历史上他们被称为“客家人”,但在落脚之地,却建立了紧密而坚固的社群。客家文化的核心,是深厚的家族意识。这不仅关乎血缘,更是一套鲜活的价值观、仪式与责任体系。每一代客家人都通过祠堂祭祀祖先,铭记家族历史。即便是远赴海外的后裔,也会追溯宗族村落的根源,以此延续那份血脉与文化的联结。

As night fell over Yunshui Yao, the village transformed into a quiet world. Lanterns glowed softly along cobbled paths, and the sound of flowing water echoed through the ancient alleys. The tulous stood silently in the moonlight, their thick earthen walls holding centuries of Hakka stories. In that stillness, I felt the heart of Hakka culture. It was a life rooted in simplicity and connection, so different from the pace I’m used to. This cultural journey of slower rhythm was more about experiencing a way of life that’s rare for me.

夜幕降临云水谣,村落顿时变得静谧无声。鹅卵石小路上,灯笼柔和地闪烁,潺潺流水声在古老的巷道中回荡。一座座土楼静静地矗立在月光下,厚厚的土墙承载着百年的客家故事。在这份静谧中,我感受到了客家文化的精髓。这是一种根植于淳朴与亲情的生活,与我习以为常的生活节奏截然不同。这段慢节奏的文化之旅,更多的是体验一种对我来说弥足珍贵并且全新的生活方式。

An Immersive Journey Through Kulangsu’s Scenic Beauty

鼓浪屿的沉浸式旅行

Rising gently from the waves of Xiamen’s coast, Kulangsu is an island where sea breezes carry the echoes of pianos and the scent of frangipani drifts through winding stone lanes. It is a place where cultures once met across the ocean, leaving behind villas with red-tiled roofs, colonial consulates, and quiet courtyards shaded by banyan trees. It is celebrated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its rare tapestry of architecture and culture. From the European-inspired mansions of returning overseas Chinese to the fusion styles born of East and West, every building tells a story of global exchange in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

鼓浪屿依偎在厦门海岸的碧波之间,海风轻拂,钢琴声在空气中悠扬回荡,缅栀花的清香随蜿蜒的石巷飘散。这里曾是多元文化的交汇之地,留下了红瓦洋楼、殖民时期的领事馆,以及榕树掩映下的静谧庭院。凭借其独特的建筑群与深厚的文化底蕴,鼓浪屿被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。从归侨的欧式宅邸到中西合璧的风格,每一座建筑都在低声讲述着19世纪至20世纪初这座岛屿与全世界交流的历史。

Kulangsu island is always a romantic place for travelers to explore. On December 27th 2024, the morning ferry skimmed across the waters of Xiamen, carrying me toward Nei Cuoao Ferry Point, the gateway to Kulangsu. As the city skyline softened behind me, the island slowly revealed its red rooftops and leafy hills, bathed in the gentle light of dawn. The sea breeze grew cooler, carrying with it a sense of anticipation—of slower rhythms, hidden gardens, and the music-filled streets waiting just beyond the pier.

鼓浪屿自古便是旅行者心中的浪漫归处。2024年12月27日清晨,渡轮划过厦门的海面,载着我驶向这座岛屿的门户内厝澳渡轮码头。身后的城市天际线渐渐退去成一抹柔影,前方的岛屿却缓缓浮现:红瓦屋顶点缀在葱郁的山丘间,尽情沐浴在温柔的晨曦里。清凉的海风拂面,吹来一缕期许——那是对码头彼岸缓慢的生活节奏、隐秘的花园,以及充盈着音乐的街巷的些须期待。

After I arrived at the island in the morning, the first glimpse of it was the beach. Beach on Kulangsu is not the selling point of this island but it is still beautiful enough. It stretched like a pale ribbon along the edge of the island, its sand soft and fine beneath bare feet. The waves lap gently, leaving fleeting patterns of foam that glisten under the sun, while children’s laughter drifts across the breeze. Here the horizon was wide, the sea was calm, and the soft sand was a quiet comfort for travelers who came to rest by the water’s edge.

清晨抵达鼓浪屿,最先映入眼帘的便是一片沙滩。它或许不是这座岛屿最耀眼的名片,却自有一份恬静之美。沙滩宛若一条浅色的缎带,环绕在岛屿的边缘,细腻柔软的沙粒在脚下温润舒适。海浪轻轻拍打岸边,散落的泡沫在阳光中闪烁着微光,伴随着孩子们随风传来的笑声,勾勒出一幅温柔的画面。这里视野辽阔,海面宁静,柔软的沙滩为徜徉水边的旅人带来片刻安宁与慰藉。

Automobile is not allowed on this island, so the only option is to walk along the sea slowly. This long curling bridge built on the sea seems to dance with the sea breeze, their arches tracing elegant curves above the tides. From the railing, I watched the waves rushing in from the horizon and breaking against the rugged cliffs below. Each crash of white foam is a rhythm, echoing like nature’s drumbeat against the stone, while the bridges carry me forward as if floating between sky and sea. It is a place where footsteps slow, and the vast power of the ocean meets the quiet beauty of human design.

岛上禁止汽车通行,唯一的方式便是沿着海岸缓缓漫步。那条横跨海面的蜿蜒长桥,似乎随着海风轻舞,桥拱在潮汐之上勾勒出优雅的弧线。我伫立于栏杆旁,望着海浪自天际奔涌而来,拍击下方崎岖的悬崖。每一次白色浪花的炸裂,都是大自然的鼓点,敲击在岩石之上,而桥梁则承载着我的脚步,仿佛将我引向漂浮于海天之间的境界。在这里,步伐放缓,浩瀚的海洋与人类匠心的静美交织成一曲和谐的乐章。

Towering trees at the seaside rose like silent guardians of the island, their trunks weathered yet steadfast, their crowns heavy with shimmering green. Sunlight filtered through the leaves in shifting patterns, dappling the stone paths and courtyards below. When the sea breeze drifted inland, the branches swayed gently, whispering as if carrying stories of travelers long past. Looking up from below, the Sunlight Rock seems impossibly high, like a natural monument etched with shadows and light.

海边的参天大树静静矗立,如同守护岛屿的巨人。它的树干历经风霜,依旧坚韧挺拔;繁茂的树冠生机盎然,散发出深沉而浓烈的绿意。阳光穿透叶隙,在石板路与庭院间洒下斑驳的光影。海风轻拂,枝叶摇曳,仿佛在低声诉说远古旅人的故事。抬头仰望,日光岩巍然耸立,宛若一座由光与影雕琢而成的天然纪念碑。

My travel route is from the Nei Cuoao Wharf in the west to the Sunlight Rock in the south, then to the Haoyue Park in the east, finally to the residence area in the central part. Sunlight Rock, the highest point on Kulangsu Island offers travelers both a natural wonder and a historic landmark. Its rugged cliffs are composed of granite, weathered over centuries into jagged yet graceful forms. From below, it appears almost vertical and looks very impressive.

我的行程自西面的内厝澳码头启程,向南攀至日光岩,再东行至皓月园,最终抵达岛屿中央的居民区。日光岩是鼓浪屿的至高点,不仅是自然的杰作,更是历史的丰碑。它由花岗岩嶙峋堆叠而成,历经数百年风化,雕琢出峥嵘而秀美的姿态。从山脚仰望,其岩壁几近垂直,气势巍峨。

Near the summit of Sunlight Rock, the Sunlight Temple is a serene retreat that seems to float between sky and sea. Its crimson walls and green-tiled roofs stand in gentle contrast to the rugged granite cliffs, while the incense smoke drifting from its altars adds a fragrant softness to the salty sea breeze. It is one of Kulangsu’s oldest religious sites, with roots tracing back to the Ming and Qing dynasties.

日光寺位于日光岩顶峰附近,静谧幽远,仿佛悬浮于海天之间。深红的寺墙与碧绿的琉璃瓦,与嶙峋的花岗岩峭壁相映成趣;自祭坛缭绕而出的袅袅香烟,与咸润的海风交织,添上一缕清芬。作为鼓浪屿最古老的宗教圣地之一,它的渊源可追溯至明清时期。

Inside the courtyard, carefully carved wooden beams and delicate statues reflect traditional Chinese temple artistry. Potted plants and small trees are carefully arranged along the stone pathways. Fragrant flowers peek from ceramic pots, and miniature bonsai trees twist gracefully and elegantly in the gentle breeze in this tranquil courtyard.

庭院之中,木梁雕饰精美,神像玲珑雅致,尽显中国传统寺庙的艺术气韵。石径两侧,盆栽与小树错落有致,仿佛静候来客。陶罐里,馥郁的花朵探首而出,微型盆景随风轻摇,流露出一份静谧与雅趣。

The path to the summit winds through lush vegetation, shaded by tall palm trees and clusters of banyans, with small resting spots offering glimpses of the surrounding sea. The red roof-tops are one of the most distinctive features of Kulangsu’s landscape. In the late 19th centuries, many Chinese merchants and families who had lived in Southeast Asia or Europe returned to Kulangsu. They brought with them Western architectural styles, where red-tiled roofs were common. Red clay tiles were durable and well-suited to the island’s humid, coastal climate. They shed rain efficiently and resisted the salty sea breeze better than thatched or flat roofs.

通往山顶的小径蜿蜒穿过葱郁的植被,高耸的棕榈与成片的榕树交织掩映,沿途设有小憩之处,可远眺一望无际的海景。鼓浪屿最具代表性的风貌之一,便是点缀在绿意之间的红色屋顶。自19世纪末起,许多曾旅居东南亚或欧洲的华商与家族陆续归来,他们将西方建筑风格融入岛上的传统环境,使红瓦屋顶随处可见。由红粘土烧制的瓦片坚固耐久,极为适合潮湿的海岛气候,不仅能有效遮挡雨水,更能比茅草或平屋更好地抵御扑面的咸湿海风。

The rock is a commanding position, allowing visitors to gaze across the island and the surrounding sea. At the top, the sea breeze is strong and refreshing, and the panoramic view is really breathtaking. I could see clearly the undulating coastline of Xiamen, the sparkling waters surrounding Kulangsu, and the red-roofed villas dotted across the island all unfold beneath my feet. The sea of red rooftops is like a mosaic of history: a blend of Chinese tradition, overseas influence, and the island’s role as a hub of cultural exchange.

日光岩居高临下,俯瞰整座岛屿与四周蔚蓝的大海。登上山顶,海风清冽劲爽,眼前的全景令人屏息:厦门起伏的海岸线尽收眼底,鼓浪屿周围的海面波光粼粼,岛上星罗棋布的红顶别墅一一展现。这片红顶别墅群宛如一幅历史的马赛克画卷,将中国传统建筑、海外风格与岛屿作为文化交流枢纽的独特身份巧妙融合。

After going down from the top of Sunlight Rock, next I visited the Shuzhuang Garden which is one of the island’s most beautiful places. Here classical Chinese landscape design meets the island’s coastal beauty. It was built in 1913 by Lin Erjia, a wealthy overseas Chinese merchant, as a private seaside villa in memory of his father. This is the statue of the owner Lin Erjia.

从日光岩顶下来后,我接下来参观了菽庄花园,它是岛上最美的地方之一。这里融合了中国古典园林设计与岛上的海滨美景。它是由富豪华侨林尔嘉于1913年建造的一座私人海滨别墅,以纪念他的父亲。这张照片是别墅主人林尔嘉的雕像。

The garden is famed for its clever use of space, following the traditional Chinese principle of “借景” (borrowing scenery). Pavilions, winding corridors, and moon gates frame the shifting views of the sea, distant islands, and the garden’s own bridges and rockeries. Every turn seems to reveal a new scene—quiet ponds reflecting the sky, bamboo groves whispering in the wind, or stone steps leading down to the shore where waves gently lap against the rocks. It seamed that I was placed in a flowing Chinese landscape painting.

这座园林以巧妙的空间布局著称,完美体现了中国传统的“借景”理念。亭台楼阁、蜿蜒曲折的回廊与幽雅的月门,将海景、远方岛屿以及园内的小桥流水、假山巧妙串联。每一次转角,仿佛都会呈现新的画面——静谧的池塘映照着天空,竹林在微风中轻轻低语;沿着石阶走向岸边,海浪温柔地拍打着岩石,恍若置身一幅流动的山水画卷。

In this limited area, it includes many artificial hills, winding paths, and groves of bamboo and pine which reproduce the feeling of mountain landscapes within a compact space. Small waterfalls, rockeries, and ponds complete the miniature world of hills and streams, inviting visitors to wander as if in nature itself.

在这有限的空间里,错落有致的假山、蜿蜒曲折的小径、竹林松林,在紧凑的空间中重现了山峦叠嶂的景象。小瀑布、假山、池塘,构成了山水的微缩世界,让游客仿佛置身于大自然之中。

From within Shuzhuang Garden, slender stone bridges curve outward like graceful arms reaching toward the sea. Their paths are never straight; instead, they twist and turn in gentle zigzags, following the classical garden tradition of slowing one’s pace and revealing scenery step by step. Low railings frame the edges, allowing the sound of waves and the salty breeze to flow freely across the walkway like spirits.

从菽庄花园内眺望,纤细的石桥如同伸向大海的优雅手臂,缓缓蜿蜒而出。桥面并非笔直,而是曲折回环,恰似古典园林中“步步缓行,景致渐现”的意趣。低矮的栏杆轻轻环绕,任海浪的吟唱与咸风的拂面自由流淌在桥上,增添几分闲适与灵动。

As I crossed the bridge, the view shifted constantly. One moment was framed by a round moon gate, the next opening wide to the endless horizon. The bridges seemed to hover between two worlds: behind me, the calm rockeries, bamboo groves, and pavilions of the garden; ahead, the vast, untamed sea which tide was high, and waves surged and crashed beneath the arches.

走过桥,眼前的景色不断变幻:忽而是一道圆形月门,忽而又豁然开朗,直通无垠的地平线。栈桥仿佛悬浮在两个世界之间。身后是花园中静谧的假山、竹林与亭台楼阁;前方是浩瀚的大海,潮水涌动,波涛翻滚,在桥下奔腾不息。

Walking through Shuzhuang Garden, I felt as if I had stepped into a living painting that slowly revealed itself with every turn. The zigzagging bridges drew me closer to the sea, and when the horizon suddenly appeared through a moon gate, it felt like a surprise being revealed. Standing on a bridge where the garden meets the ocean with Sunlight Rock at the backdrop, I felt that all noise and worry seemed to dissolve into the rhythm of the sea, leaving only a quiet joy.

漫步于菽庄花园,仿佛步入一幅鲜活的画卷,随着每个转角的延展,画卷徐徐展开。蜿蜒的桥将我引向大海,当地平线透过月门突然显现,如同一份悄然揭开的惊喜。站在花园与海水交汇的桥上,以日光岩为背景,所有喧嚣与烦恼仿佛随波逐流,只留下静谧而纯粹的喜悦。

The Piano Museum near the Shuzhuang Garden is the first of its kind in China. Opened in 2000, the museum reflects the island’s reputation as the “Island of Music” and its deep-rooted love for piano culture. The museum is housed in elegant garden pavilions surrounded by flowers and plants.

菽庄花园附近的钢琴博物馆是中国首家钢琴博物馆。该博物馆于2000年开馆,体现了这座岛屿 “音乐之岛”的美誉以及当地民众对钢琴文化的深厚热爱。博物馆坐落在雅致的花园亭阁之中,周围环绕着鲜花绿植。

The hall displays more than a hundred pianos from around the world. Many of them are rare and antique instruments, some dating back centuries. Walking through the museum, I saw some famous pianos from the 18th century like Blüthner and Steinway & Sons. They are decorated with delicate carvings, and grand pianos once played in concert halls and noble salons. Each piece tells a story of craftsmanship, artistry, and the journey of music.

大厅里展出了来自世界各地的一百多架钢琴。其中许多都是稀有的古董乐器,有些甚至可以追溯到几个世纪以前。漫步博物馆,我看到了例如步吕特纳和施坦威等一些18世纪的著名钢琴。它们装饰着精美的雕刻,还有一些曾经在音乐厅和贵族沙龙中演奏的三角钢琴。每一架钢琴都向我讲述着各自的工艺、艺术和音乐之旅的故事。

In the afternoon, I walked along the seaside of Kulangsu which felt alive with energy. The sea sparkled under the sun, waves rolling gently toward the stone promenade. At the far end, Xiamen’s skyline gleamed in the distance. Walking further along the curve of the shore, the huge statue of Zheng Chenggong came into view, standing tall on the rocks above the sea. His gaze was fixed firmly toward the horizon. Beneath him, the waves crashed against the cliffs, as if echoing his determination.

午后,我漫步在鼓浪屿的海滨,感受着这里洋溢的生机与活力。阳光洒在海面上,波光粼粼,海浪轻柔地拍打着石板路。远处,厦门的天际线闪烁着迷人的光芒。沿着海岸线缓缓前行,郑成功的巨大雕像映入眼帘,矗立于海面之上的岩石之上。他的目光坚定而深邃,凝视着遥远的地平线。海浪拍打着岩石,在他身下激起阵阵回响,仿佛回应着这位民族英雄不屈的意志。

When I looked up at the statue, I imagined that he set sail from these shores in 1661, driving out the Dutch and reclaiming Taiwan, turning Xiamen into a stronghold of resistance and hope. I began to reminisce the history at the end of Ming Dynasty. Although fighting against Qing Dynasty all through his life, Zheng Chenggong gained high recognition from his enemy due to extraordinary loyalty and courage and after his death, the Kangxi Emperor of Qing praised him with the famous couplet:

“四镇多异心,两岛屯师,敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土,一隅抗志,方知海外有孤忠。”

The emperor’s words recognize Zheng as a singular figure of steadfast loyalty and daring, acting alone in defense of the Ming cause while much of the empire wavered. Zheng’s courage and strategic vision marked him as a “solitary loyalist” whose deeds would endure in history. Standing today on Kulangsu, gazing at his towering statue facing the sea, I felt the weight of his loyalty and the determination.

当我仰望这座雕像,脑海中浮现他于1661年从这片海岸起航的场景——驱逐荷兰人、收复台湾、将厦门化作抵抗与希望的据点。思绪随之回溯至明末岁月。郑成功一生与清廷为敌,却凭卓越的忠诚与勇气赢得敌方尊重。其逝世后,清康熙皇帝仍题下名联以示赞誉:“四镇多异心,两岛屯师,敢向东南争半壁。诸王无寸土,一隅抗志,方知海外有孤忠。”

康熙皇帝的挽联承认郑成功的忠义无畏、勇敢坚强。在明朝风雨飘摇、举国动荡之际,他独自肩负捍卫江山的重任。凭借非凡的勇气与卓越的战略眼光,郑成功被尊为“孤胆忠臣”,其丰功伟绩必将载入史册。今日,伫立于鼓浪屿,凝视他那面向大海、巍然矗立的雕像,我深切感受到了这位南明义士忠诚为国的分量与坚定抗清的决心。

From the shores of Kulangsu, the view across the water feels like looking into another world. Beyond the gentle rhythm of waves and the red-tiled roofs of the island, Xiamen rises in shimmering glass and steel. Sleek high-rises and soaring towers stretch toward the sky. The contrast is striking. On one side, it’s Kulangsu’s quiet gardens, winding lanes, and echoes of history; on the other, it’s the bold skyline of a modern metropolis. It made me feel as though past and present are meeting in a single frame.

从鼓浪屿的岸边眺望,对岸的景色仿佛属于另一个世界。轻柔的海浪拍打着岸边,岛上红瓦屋顶在阳光下温暖映衬,而厦门的玻璃与钢铁建筑在光影中拔地而起,现代高楼直冲云霄,光鲜亮丽。两者形成鲜明对比:一边是鼓浪屿静谧的花园、曲折的小巷和历史的回响;另一边是现代都市的雄伟天际线。此刻,我仿佛看到过去与现在在同一画面中交汇。

From the late 19th to early 20th century, luxurious villas and mansions in style like Mediterranean, Baroque, Rococo, and Art Deco were built on this island. Missionaries from Europe built churches, schools, and hospitals, adding Gothic spires, stained glass windows, and European-style chapels to the landscape. Meanwhile, traditional Chinese temples and gardens continued to flourish, preserving local spiritual and aesthetic traditions. Nowadays, Kulangsu retained most of its historic buildings. I wandered through the small lanes and wondered at the mixed cultures here.

19世纪末至20世纪初,岛上陆续兴建起兼具地中海、巴洛克、洛可可及装饰艺术风格的豪华别墅与庄园。来自欧洲的传教士则建造了教堂、学校与医院,为岛屿增添了哥特式尖顶、彩色玻璃窗以及精致的小教堂风貌。与此同时,中国传统的寺庙与园林依旧生机勃勃,承载着当地独特的精神与审美传统。如今,鼓浪屿大部分历史建筑依然完好保存。我漫步于曲径幽巷之间,仿佛置身于一座多元文化交融的时光画卷之中

‘Amoy Deco’ is the name given to a unique style that blossomed on this island during the early 20th century. It evolved as returning overseas Chinese merchants and students brought back Western influences, fusing them with Fujianese tradition. The name Amoy comes from the local Hokkien dialect pronunciation of Xiamen. Inspired by the global Art Deco movement, these buildings often feature streamlined facades, angular designs, and decorative motifs such as hexagonal patterns roof, symmetry, and zigzags. Unlike pure Western Art Deco, Amoy Deco integrates local craftsmanship, brick masonry techniques, and Chinese symbolic decorations. Wide verandas, open balconies, and shaded courtyards designed for ventilation in the humid subtropical climate.

“Amoy Deco”指的是20世纪初在这座岛屿上兴起的一种独特建筑风格。这一风格由归国的海外华商与留学生将西方艺术元素带回中国,并与福建本土传统相融合而发展而成。“Amoy”源自当地闽南语对“厦门”的发音。受全球Art Deco运动影响,这类建筑常呈流线型外墙、棱角分明,并装饰有六边形屋顶、对称布局以及锯齿形等图案。不同于纯粹的西方装饰艺术,Amoy Deco巧妙融合了本地工艺、砖砌技术及中国传统装饰元素。宽敞的走廊、开放式阳台与幽静庭院的设计,有效适应了潮湿亚热带气候下的通风需求。

Trinity Church

Constructed in 1934, the Trinity Church was built jointly by three Christian congregations to cater to the growing number of worshipers on the island. The church showcases architectural influences rooted in Western ecclesiastical design like brick walls accented by cross motifs, arched windows and a steeply pitched white roof. Its first Sunday service in the renewed sanctuary was held in 2019, marking its restored role as a house of worship for the island’s community.

这座三一教堂建于1934年,由三家基督教会联合兴建,旨在满足岛上日益增长的信徒需求。教堂的设计汲取了西方教会建筑的风格特色,砖墙上点缀着十字图案,拱形窗户高耸典雅,陡峭的白色屋顶更显庄重。2019年,翻新后的圣殿迎来了首场主日礼拜,宣告教堂重新成为岛上社区的精神图腾与礼拜中心。

Former British Consulate

The Former British Consulate is a distinguished example of colonial architecture that reflects the island’s rich international heritage. The building is constructed from ancient Minnan red bricks and granite. The structure showcases a veranda style, which was prevalent in port cities during the 19th and early 20th centuries. In 1843, Xiamen opened to foreign trade, and the British government established a consular office on Kulangsu. Today, it has been repurposed and serves as the Kulangsu Historical and Cultural Exhibition Hall. This transformation allows visitors to explore the island’s rich history and the architectural heritage of its colonial past.

前英国领事馆是殖民时期建筑的杰出典范,体现了鼓浪屿丰富的国际文化遗产。建筑以传统闽南红砖和花岗岩砌成,呈现19世纪至20世纪初港口城市盛行的廊架式风格。自1843年厦门开港通商以来,英国政府便在鼓浪屿设立了领事馆。如今,这座建筑经过改造,成为鼓浪屿历史文化展览馆,让游客得以深入探索岛上的历史风貌与殖民时期的建筑遗产。

Former Japanese Consulate

The Former Japanese Consulate stands as a testament to Kulangsu’s rich history as an international settlement. Constructed in 1879, it remains the only 19th-century embassy building still intact on the island. The building is primarily constructed using ancient Minnan red bricks and granite as well like most buildings in this island. The structure exhibits Victorian-style elements with a veranda-style layout, common in cities with open ports, and incorporates wood trusses, I-beams, and concrete slabs in its interior.

前日本领事馆见证了鼓浪屿作为国际殖民地的悠久历史。建于1879年,它是岛上唯一保存完好的19世纪使馆建筑。如同岛上其他建筑一样,整座建筑以古老的闽南红砖与花岗岩砌成,结构中融入了维多利亚风格的元素,采用港口城市常见的廊式布局;内部则巧妙结合了木桁架、工字梁与混凝土板,展现出独特的历史风貌。

This building does not allow visiting inside so I could only take some photos surrounding it. Its façade, adorned with arched windows and a distinctive red-brick exterior, stands in contrast to the surrounding European-style buildings. Its well-preserved structure offers me a glimpse into the architectural diversity that characterizes the island.

由于这栋建筑不对内部开放,我只能在周围拍几张照片。正面装饰着拱形窗户,外墙由独特的红砖砌成,在周围的欧式建筑群中格外醒目。它保存完好的结构,让我得以一瞥岛上建筑风格的丰富多样。

Huang Rongyuan Villa

In my opinion, the Huang Rongyuan Villa must be the most elegant and beautiful mansion in this island. The villa built in 1920 reflects a fusion of European classical style and Chinese aesthetics. Its massive granite columns and formal symmetry evoke Roman grandeur. Four giant Tuscan-style granite columns support a semi-circular portico. Rich ornamental details in column capitals, eaves, windows, balconies, and a rooftop adorned with grapevine motifs and balustrades really attract my eyes.

在我眼中,黄荣远别墅无疑是这座岛上最优雅、最迷人的宅邸。建于1920年的它,将欧洲古典风格与中国美学完美融合。巨大的花岗岩柱与对称布局,让人联想到古罗马的宏伟气势。四根雄伟的托斯卡纳风格花岗岩柱支撑着半圆形门廊,而柱头、屋檐、窗户、阳台以及装饰着葡萄藤图案与精美栏杆的屋顶,其繁复细致的装饰着实吸引了我的眼球。

The villa stands within a lush courtyard, over 3,000 m² in size. In the courtyard, the garden is an exquisite fusion of Chinese and Western elements. One highlight is the use of traditional Chinese garden elements like Taihu rocks, winding paths, a pavilion, and a cloud-style rock wall. In contrast, the geometry and symmetry reflect Western villa gardens especially decorated with curved porch and grand Ionic columns. Now, it is home to the China Record Museum, preserving both architecture and musical heritage.

别墅坐落于郁郁葱葱的庭院之中,占地逾3000平方米。庭院花园巧妙地融汇中西风格:一方面,太湖石、蜿蜒小径、雅致凉亭与云纹岩墙彰显中国传统园林的韵味;另一方面,别墅本身的几何造型与对称布局,配以弧形门廊和宏伟的爱奥尼式柱子,又散发出典型西方别墅花园的气度。如今,别墅内还设有中国唱片博物馆,珍藏着丰富的建筑与音乐遗产。

Fanpo Mansion

This Fanpo Mansion is celebrated for its rare blend of Chinese craftsmanship and European Rococo style. The gatehouse is particularly notable. It’s the tallest and largest on the island. Rococo influences surface in flourishes of curving lines and decorative sculptures. The gatehouse is crowned with a sculpture of two golden birds holding copper coins, symbolizing wealth and good fortune. The mansion was built in 1927 by a prosperous Chinese-Filipino entrepreneur, in honor of his mother, known as ‘Fan Po’. The exterior is composed of richly hued red bricks contrasted with white trims. The ground floor features a two-story red-brick cloister with graceful arches forming a shaded walkway. A set of elegant stairs ascends to the main entrance.

番婆楼以其罕见的中西工艺融合而闻名,将中国传统元素与欧洲洛可可风格巧妙结合。其门楼尤为引人瞩目,是岛上最高、最宏伟的门楼。洛可可风格的影响在门楼的曲线线条与精美雕塑中展露无遗。门楼顶部雕刻着两只衔铜钱的金鸟,象征财富与吉祥。这座府邸建于1927年,由一位富有的菲律宾华裔企业家建造,以纪念他被尊称为 “番婆”的母亲。外墙以色彩丰富的红砖砌成,辅以白色装饰,形成鲜明对比。一楼设有两层红砖回廊,优美的拱门连成绿荫步道。沿着典雅的楼梯拾级而上,即可通达正门。

There are still some local residents in this island. I could even go to the second floor of the new residential house taking some photos. Life on Kulangsu may unfold under the gaze of countless tourists, but for its local residents, the rhythm is gentler, rooted in routines that have little to do with sightseeing. At dusk, when most tourists have left, the island grows peaceful. Residents stroll along the seaside promenade, and children chase each other under the glow of streetlamps.

岛上仍住着一些本地居民。我甚至可以上到新建居民楼的二楼,拍下几张静谧的生活瞬间。鼓浪屿的日常,在游客的目光下缓缓展开,而对居民而言,却是另一种从容,根植于与观光无关的平凡生活。黄昏时分,当游客渐渐散去,岛上恢复了宁静。居民沿着海滨长廊缓步而行,孩子们在路灯下追逐嬉戏,脚步声与海风一同流淌在暮色中。

Chuncao Tang

Travel in this small island is tiring since I needed to continue walking up and down without rest. Chuncao Tang is situated on the cliff of Pen Holder Hill, offering expansive views of the surrounding landscape. Built in 1933, Chuncao Tang was designed by Xu Chuncao, the president of the Xiamen Construction Association. The villa resembles a Western-style nursing house. Its structure utilizes granite for the wall base, wall pillars, and corridor column. The villa includes a wide corridor outside the living room, providing a space for viewing and cooling off, enhancing the living experience with panoramic views of the surrounding area.

这座小岛上旅行格外疲惫,因为我需要不断地上下攀爬,中途也不得不停下来休息。春草堂座落于笔架山的悬崖之上,视野开阔,能够尽览周围景致。建于1933年的春草堂,由厦门市建筑协会会长许春草设计,别墅仿照西式养老院建造,墙基、墙柱与廊柱皆采用花岗岩。别墅客厅外设有宽敞的走廊,既可观景,又可乘凉,将周围的风光尽收眼底,极大提升了居住的舒适体验。

HSBC Bank Mansion

One of the most amazing buildings on this island must be the HSBC Bank Mansion. It is a three-leaf clover shaped English style villa, completed in 1876, and distinguished by its placement atop the cliff of Pen Holder Hill. I looked up at the high and straight cliff. This building sits solidly on a granite foundation anchored into the cliff’s rock. The mansion’s cliff-top location was purposefully chosen to offer sweeping sea views during both day and night. A colonnaded cloister runs alongside, opening to sea breezes and panoramic views of Xiamen’s Twin Towers and the iconic Bagua Mansion.

岛上最令人叹为观止的建筑之一,非汇丰银行公馆莫属。这座建于1876年的英式三叶草形状的别墅,因矗立于笔架山悬崖之上而闻名。我仰望着笔架山高耸的悬崖,只见公馆稳稳地坐落在嵌入岩石的花岗岩基座上。选址于悬崖之巅,是为了让人无论白天还是夜晚,都能尽览壮阔海景。旁侧,带有柱廊的回廊在海风吹拂下轻轻摇曳,厦门双子塔与标志性的八卦楼尽收眼底。

Bagua Mansion

Before the sun set, the Bagua Mansion revealed itself like a beacon among Kulangsu’s green hills and tiled rooftops. Its bright red dome, rounded and regal, rose above the treetops, immediately catching my eyes. Against the soft sky and glittering sea, the dome shone with a warm glow in the winter chill, resting like a crown on the island’s outline. This distinct profile makes the mansion one of the most recognizable landmarks of Kulangsu. Founded in 1907, the Bagua Mansion was commissioned by Taiwanese businessman. Nowadays, the refurbished mansion became the Organ Museum, housing Chinese most notable collections of pipe organs.

日落前,八卦楼宛如一座灯塔,矗立在鼓浪屿青山绿水与瓦片屋顶之间。那鲜红的穹顶圆润而庄重,耸立于树梢之上,瞬间捕获了我的目光。在柔和的天空与波光粼粼的海面映衬下,穹顶在冬日寒意中散发出温暖光芒,如同一顶皇冠,点缀着岛屿的轮廓。独特的造型让八卦楼成为鼓浪屿最易辨识的地标之一。八卦楼始建于1907年,由一位台湾商人委托建造,如今经过翻新,已成为管风琴博物馆,馆内收藏着中国最著名的管风琴藏品。

After eight hours of exploring this island on foot, my legs were utterly exhausted. Sauntering through the winding lanes was like stepping into a living museum, where each street and building tells a story of hybrid cultures and architectural fusion. Though time constraints meant I missed many remarkable structures, the glimpses I caught and these intricate details blending East and West made every step worthwhile. This UNESCO site is not just a place to see but a place to feel, where history and artistry coexist in the most vivid way.

徒步探索这座岛屿八小时后,我的双腿早已疲惫不堪。漫步于蜿蜒的小巷中,仿佛走进一座鲜活的博物馆。每条街道、每栋建筑都娓娓诉说着多元文化与建筑风格交融的故事。虽因时间有限错过了许多令人叹为观止的建筑,但那些短暂的瞥见,以及东西方交汇处的精致细节,让我此次旅行的每一步都充满价值。这座联合国教科文组织世界遗产,不仅值得观赏,更值得用心感受;历史与艺术在这里以最生动的方式交融共存。

The Crossroads of Civilizations in Quanzhou

多文化的交汇地泉州

Known as the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road, Quanzhou was one of the world’s busiest ports during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Even one thousand years ago, it is a multi-cultural city. Nowadays, Quanzhou’s streets echo with this unique cultural symphony. Within a few kilometers, traveler can find Buddhist temples, Taoist shrines, churches, and mosques. Due to its pivotal role as a maritime hub and a melting pot of global cultures, Quanzhou is often called “the Museum of World Religions. It was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.

泉州,作为海上丝绸之路的起点,在宋元时期曾是世界最繁忙的港口之一。早在千年前,这里便是多元文化交汇的热土。如今,漫步泉州街头,依然能聆听那穿越时空的文化交响——在短短几公里范围内,佛教寺庙、道教圣地、基督教堂与清真寺比邻而立,和谐共存。凭借其作为海上枢纽与全球文化熔炉的重要地位,泉州被誉为“世界宗教博物馆”,并于2021年被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。

Quanzhou was the third stop of my Christmas 2024 journey through Fujian Province, following visits to Fuzhou and Wuyi Mountain. I spent two days exploring this historic city. My trip started from the Chaotian Gate in the south of city. Built during the Song dynasty, when Quanzhou was a flourishing maritime hub, this gate was once the primary entrance, through which envoys, merchants, and travelers passed, their ships anchored nearby in the busy harbor. The name “Chaotian,” meaning “Facing Heaven,” reflects its ceremonial role: it was traditionally used to greet imperial envoys and conduct ritual offerings to heaven and the sea. When I stood before Chaotian Gate, I easily imagined the scene centuries ago—caravans unloading goods, sails fluttering in the breeze, and languages from across Asia and the Middle East echoing through the air.

继福州与武夷山之后,泉州成为我2024年圣诞节福建之旅的第三站。我在这座历史名城停留了两天,细细品味它厚重的文化底蕴。旅程自城南的朝天门启程——这座建于宋代的古老城门,曾是泉州作为繁盛海上枢纽的门户,是商贾、使节与旅人进出的要道,昔日无数船只便停泊在临近的港口边。

“朝天”意为“面向天空”,寓意庄严而神圣。这里不仅是迎接皇帝使者的场所,也曾举行祭天祭海等重要仪式,体现其深远的礼仪功能。站在朝天门前,我仿佛穿越时空,眼前浮现出数百年前的景象:商队忙碌卸货,风帆轻扬,来自亚洲与中东的异域语言在空气中交织回响——那是一幅世界交汇的壮丽画卷。

In the heart of Quanzhou’s old town center, I visited many ancient buildings. The white Clock Tower located on West Street is a distinctive and modern-looked structure built in 1934. Unlike the traditional ancient architecture around it, this tower showcases early 20th-century architectural design. The tower stands at 13.8 meters tall and is constructed from reinforced concrete. At the top of the tower, there are four round clocks, one on each side, allowing the time to be visible from multiple directions along the street. It is not only a building, but more like a time observer, silently witnessing the changing and flowing rhythm of the ancient city.

在泉州古城的中心,我漫步于古巷之间,参观了众多承载岁月痕迹的老建筑。而在西街,一座白色钟楼静静矗立,其造型简洁却不失独特气质,散发出上世纪初的现代风采。它建于1934年,与周围的闽南红砖古厝形成鲜明对比,宛如时代转折处的一笔注解。

这座高13.8米的钟楼由钢筋混凝土建成,坚实挺拔。塔顶设有四面圆形时钟,分别朝向不同方向,令街道上来自各个角落的行人都能一眼望见时间的踪迹。它不仅是一座建筑,更像是一位守时者,默默见证着古城节奏的更迭与流转。


South of the Bell Tower on West Street, the street is lined with traditional Minnan (Southern Fujian) style buildings that beautifully blend regional craftsmanship with colonial-era influences, creating a unique streetscape. The buildings are predominantly two-level shop houses, raised on large white pillars that support the upper floors. These sturdy posts not only provide structural strength but also create a shaded arcade at street level, perfect for pedestrians and operations of small shops.

在西街钟楼以南,街道两旁耸立着一排排传统的闽南风格建筑,巧妙融合了本地工艺美学与殖民时期的异域风情,勾勒出一幅别具韵味的街景画卷。这些建筑多为两层楼的店屋,上层由一根根洁白粗壮的柱子支撑,既赋予结构坚实的力量,也在街道沿线形成连续的拱廊。这些拱廊不仅遮风避日,为行人提供舒适的步行空间,也为小商铺营造了宜人的经营环境。


The walls feature red brick-lined windows and facades, a hallmark of Minnan architecture that brings warmth and texture to the buildings. The windows are framed with decorative wooden shutters or latticework, echoing the intricate patterns found in both Minnan and Southeast Asian architecture. The style closely resembles the Singaporean shop houses found in historic districts like Chinatown. This similarity highlights historical maritime trade connections and cultural exchanges between Fujian and Southeast Asia.

墙体多以红砖砌成,窗户与立面呈现出典型的闽南建筑风貌,赋予整座建筑温暖而质朴的质感。窗户多为装饰性的木质百叶窗或格子窗框,其精致的雕饰与复杂的图案,正是闽南及东南亚建筑中常见的传统美学元素。这种建筑风格与新加坡牛车水等历史街区中的店屋颇为相似,不仅在视觉上唤起遥远南洋的联想,更鲜明地映射出福建与东南亚之间源远流长的海上贸易与文化交流。

West Street is one of Quanzhou’s oldest and most charming thoroughfares. Here I wandered through a lively blend of tradition and experienced the dynamic energy of daily life. Lined with centuries-old shops, tea houses, and local eateries, the street buzzed softly with the mingling scents of fresh pastries and brewed tea. The ancient architecture here, a harmonious mix of southern Fujian style, reflected the city’s rich heritage. As I strolled along West Street, my eyes were naturally drawn to the skyline where two majestic towers rise side by side — the Kaiyuan Temple’s Twin Pagodas. These slender, towering structures, standing tall against the backdrop of blue sky, are iconic symbols of Quanzhou’s cultural and religious history. Their delicate brickwork and multi-tiered eaves cast graceful shadows over the surrounding streets, making the area solemn and poetic.

西街是泉州最古老、也最富魅力的街道之一。我缓步其间,仿佛置身于一幅流动的画卷中,感受到传统与日常生活交织出的蓬勃生机。街道两旁,百年老店、茶馆与地道小吃铺林立,糕点的甜香与茶水的清韵在空气中交融。古老的建筑依旧静默地守护着街道,闽南风格的细节随处可见,折射出这座城市深厚而多元的文化底蕴。行走在这条历史悠久的街道上,我的目光不由被天际线所吸引——两座巍峨挺拔的塔楼并肩而立,正是开元寺的双塔。

这对塔楼高耸入云,身姿纤巧而坚实,在蓝天白云的映衬下巍然屹立,静静诉说着泉州悠远的宗教与文化故事。它们精致的砖石结构与层层飞檐在阳光下投下斑驳的光影,为这片古老街区添上几分庄严与诗意。

Kaiyuan Temple stands as one of the largest and most significant Buddhist temples in Fujian Province. Founded during the Tang Dynasty in 686 AD, it has witnessed over a millennium of spiritual devotion. Stepping into Kaiyuan Temple, I was embraced by an atmosphere of calm and reverence. The gentle scent of incense mingled with the soft chanting of prayers, creating a timeless space for reflection. Surrounding the temple, ancient stone lions and inscribed steles spoke of a rich history interwoven with the city’s vibrant maritime past.

开元寺,是福建省规模最大、意义深远的佛教古刹之一。始建于唐朝公元686年,它历经千年风雨,见证着世代信众的虔诚。步入寺中,仿佛踏入一方超然尘世的净土。淡淡的香火缭绕空中,轻柔的诵经声随风流转,交织成一片宁静而深远的冥想氛围。古老的石狮静立两旁,斑驳的碑刻述说着历史的深沉与岁月的流转。这座千年古寺不仅承载着佛教文化的厚重底蕴,也与泉州这座城市的海洋精神交相辉映。

The Main Hall, or Daxiong Baodian is the majestic centerpiece of Kaiyuan Temple and the focal point for worshipers. Inside, the hall houses the gold statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, the historical Buddha, seated serenely in the center. Surrounding the main statue are smaller figures of bodhisattvas and guardian deities, all carved or sculpted with delicate detail. The hall’s interior exudes a mystery aura, enhanced by soft natural light filtering through lattice windows, and the faint aroma of incense that lingers in the air.

大雄宝殿是开元寺庄严肃穆的核心所在,也是信众心灵归依的圣地。殿内供奉着历史悠久的释迦牟尼佛金身,佛像安坐中央,神态慈悲庄严。主佛四周环绕着造型各异的菩萨与守护神像,皆雕刻精妙,线条流畅。殿内氛围静谧而深沉,仿佛将人引入一方超脱凡尘的净境。柔和的自然光透过格子窗悄然洒落,与空气中缭绕的淡淡香烟交织在一起,自有一种神秘感。

Painted on an interior wall of the temple, this mural of Qilin is a rare and vibrant example of traditional religious art that has withstood the passage of centuries. The Qilin, often regarded as a benevolent and auspicious beast, is a composite creature with the body of a deer or horse, the scales of a dragon or fish, and a mane of fire. It symbolizes peace, virtue, and the arrival of a sage or enlightened ruler. What makes this mural especially striking is its brilliant use of color—tones of turquoise, cinnabar red, gold, and indigo still glimmer faintly despite age.

这幅麒麟壁画绘于开元寺的内壁,是一件历经数百年风霜而依然绚丽如初的宗教艺术瑰宝。麒麟自古被视为仁慈与祥瑞的神兽,身形融合鹿或马的优雅、龙或鱼的鳞片之华美,以及火焰般鬃毛的灵动,象征着和平、美德,亦寓意圣贤或明君的降临。壁画最令人赞叹之处,在于其卓越的色彩运用——青绿清润、朱砂温雅、金色辉映、靛蓝深沉。纵使岁月斑驳,这些色调依然闪烁着柔和的光泽。

The Twin Pagodas of Kaiyuan Temple are the most iconic landmark of Quanzhou. Each pagoda stands over 40 meters tall, built during the Song Dynasty in the 13th century, replacing earlier wooden versions that were destroyed by fire. Crafted entirely of granite, the towers demonstrate remarkable engineering and aesthetic refinement. Delicate stone carvings of Buddhas, celestial beings, lotus patterns, and mythical creatures adorn the surfaces of both towers. Despite centuries of wind and rain, these details remain remarkably well preserved.

开元寺双塔,是泉州最具象征意义的地标之一。两座石塔高耸于古寺一隅,高逾四十米,建于宋代十三世纪,用以取代早年毁于战火的木塔。它们通体由坚硬的花岗岩砌筑而成,不仅体现了宋代高超的建筑技艺,也展现了卓越的审美。塔身雕刻繁复而精致,佛像庄严,仙人灵动,莲花清雅,神兽威武,每一处细节都凝聚着匠人的心血与虔诚。历经数百年风雨洗礼,这些浮雕仍清晰可见。

Beyond the grand halls and towering pagodas, there was a quieter world—a cluster of old temple buildings hidden in the greenery. Their weathered walls and wooden eaves were telling silent stories of centuries past. These structures, modest in scale but rich in character, were once home to monks and temple workers. Their moss-covered tiles, stone thresholds, and delicate wooden lattice windows reflect the elegance of traditional southern Fujian architecture. Time has softened the edges of these buildings: faded red doors, flaking paint, and ancient stone steps worn smooth by generations of footsteps. All are the silent testimony of vicissitude of life.

在宏伟的大殿与巍峨佛塔之外,开元寺还静静隐藏着一片安宁古雅的天地——一排排低矮的寺庙旧舍,掩映于绿意之间。斑驳的墙体与飞檐翘角的木屋顶仿佛在无声诉说着几个世纪前的清寂岁月与修行生活。这些建筑虽不宏大,却独具匠心,曾是僧侣居住与修行之所。青苔斑斓的瓦片、打磨光滑的石门槛、雕饰精巧的木格窗棂,无一不散发着闽南传统建筑的古韵之美。时间悄然在这些角落留下印记:褪色的朱红木门、斑驳剥落的油漆,以及那一阶阶被无数脚步踏磨得圆润光滑的石级,仿佛都在默默见证着人世的变迁。

As I wandered through the old quarter of old Quanzhou, I came across charming two-story houses that seemed to capture the spirit of the city in a single glance. These buildings, made of brick, feature a unique blend of southern Fujian architecture, simple but full of taste of life. The first floor serves as a shop or family living space, its entrance marked by bright red lanterns hanging on the doorway. Above, the second-floor balcony burst into color. Clay pots and wooden planters overflow with blooming flowers—hibiscus, bougainvillea, orchids—cascading over the railings. At the top, a flat rooftop platform serves as an open-air terrace. Locals might use it to dry tea leaves or gather in the evening for conversation. This kind of life rhythm is neither fast nor slow, just like the temperament of Quanzhou city – leisurely, calm, showing the real way of local life.

漫步于泉州的老城区,几处别致的两层楼房映入眼帘,仿佛在不经意间捕捉到了这座古城最真实的气息。这些砖砌民居融合了典型的闽南建筑风格,既质朴又充满生活情调。一层通常为商铺或家庭起居空间,门前常悬挂一对鲜红灯笼。二层则设有色彩斑斓的小阳台,阳台上摆满了陶罐与木制花盆,芙蓉、三角梅、兰花竞相绽放。屋顶为平顶露台,是生活的延伸空间。晴好时分,主人家会在此晾晒茶叶;入夜之后,则成了邻里闲聊纳凉的好去处。这样的生活节奏,不紧不慢,恰如泉州这座城市的气质——悠然、从容,又充满烟火人情。

In the Licheng District, there are many historical sites listed as UNESCO World Heritage Element which is a memory of the history. The site of Southern Clan Office is the official office overseeing Southern‑residing Song dynasty imperial clans based in Quanzhou. Established in the early 12th century, the office managed some 349 members of the imperial Zhao family who fled south during the Jin invasion. Now in the courtyard, stone steles and a sculpted statue stand as silent testaments to the site’s once majestic presence.

泉州鲤城区,拥有众多列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的珍贵遗迹,承载着深厚的历史与文化记忆。其中,南外宗正司遗址尤为独特,它曾是宋代宗室在泉州设立的官方机构,专责管理南迁宗室事务。始建于12世纪初,这里在金朝南侵之际,接纳并安置了约349位南逃的赵氏皇族成员,是南宋王朝血脉延续的重要据点。如今,遗址内静立的石碑与人物塑像,默默诉说着昔日王族的迁徙与沉浮。

There is a small exhibition hall showcasing rich samples of excavated artifacts, 3D interpretive maps, and multimedia reconstructions. Beautiful vases and delicate lotus‑petal pattern bricks, and majestic looking beast‑face ridge tiles from the Song dynasty are displayed here. A large variety of ceramics with inscriptions such as “赵” on pottery bases, link them directly to the imperial clan. These findings strongly affirm the site’s status as a high‑level official administrative complex tied to both the imperial clan and maritime trade governance mechanisms of the Southern Song state.

博物馆内设有一个小型展厅,虽不宏大,却内容丰富。展厅通过出土文物、3D解说地图与多媒体复原图,生动再现了南外宗正遗址的历史风貌。其中展出的宋代文物尤为引人注目:玲珑精致的花瓶、雕刻细腻的莲瓣纹砖、神态威严的兽面脊瓦,无不展现出当时工艺美术的高超水准。此外,还出土了大量陶瓷器,其中一些陶胎上刻有“赵”字铭文,直指南宋皇室的身份印记,成为皇族南迁与驻地生活的直接物证。这些考古发现不仅印证了南外宗正作为高级官僚行政机构的地位,也揭示了它在南宋皇室与海上贸易治理体系中的重要作用。

It is an unknown archaeological site layered with quiet history. Its admission is free, and it has very few visitors, making it a peaceful stop for history enthusiasts. Here I had deeper understanding of how state institutions functioned during the Maritime Silk Road era, and how imperial families adapted to life far from the capital. Every stele and every piece of pottery bears a true trace of their lives during those turbulent times. This small site, although not renowned for its grandeur, quietly reveals a distant and complex history.

这是一处鲜为人知的考古遗址,却静静蕴藏着层层叠叠的历史回响。遗址免费开放,游人寥寥,恍若与尘世隔绝,成为历史爱好者得以静心沉浸的隐秘角落。在这里,我得以更深刻地理解海上丝绸之路鼎盛时期,国家机构的运行机制与权力布局,也窥见了南宋皇室成员在远离京师的异地如何安顿身心、延续传统。每一块碑石、每一片陶瓦,都是他们在动荡年代中书写下的真实生活痕迹。这座小小遗址,不以宏伟取胜,在不经意间,将一段遥远而复杂的历史悄然呈现眼前。

The Site of the Maritime Trade Office is another UNESCO heritage site. It was once the powerful nerve center of China’s official overseas trade during the Song and Yuan dynasties. This was no ordinary government office. It was China’s window to the maritime world, a place where Arab, Persian, Indian, and Southeast Asian merchants registered their ships, paid customs duties, exchanged goods, and interacted with Chinese officials. It witnessed the prosperity of Quanzhou as the “largest port in the East” and also embodied the integration of diverse civilizations on the Maritime Silk Road. Nowadays there are only some remaining excavated stone walls, water channels, and drainage systems.

市舶司旧址,是泉州另一处被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的重要遗迹。它曾是宋元时期中国对外贸易的中枢,不仅是一座行政机构,而是连接中原与阿拉伯、波斯、印度、东南亚等地区商贸往来的桥梁。往昔,来自异域的商人曾在此登记船只、缴纳关税、交换货物,并与中国官员展开繁复的外交与商业往来。市舶司见证了泉州作为“东方第一大港”的鼎盛,也凝聚了海上丝绸之路上多元文明的交融。时至今日,旧址仅存部分石墙、水渠与排水系统,静默于岁月之中。

Far away from the bustle of West Street, the Confucian Temple lie serenely in one corner. Acting as a civilization sanctuary, it is the city’s historical center of learning, moral cultivation, and scholarly reverence. Built originally during the Tang Dynasty and expanded in the Song and Ming periods, this temple is one of the oldest and best-preserved Confucian temples in Fujian Province. More than a religious space, the Quanzhou Confucian Temple in the history served as an educational and civic institution, where Confucian teachings guided the governance and values of society.

远离西街的喧嚣,泉州文庙静静伫立于城市的一隅。宛如一方宁静的文化圣地,它曾是这座古城悠久历史中修身养性与崇尚学问的重要中心。文庙始建于唐代,历经宋明数度扩建,成为福建省保存最为完整、历史最为悠久的文庙。这里不仅是儒家礼仪的祭祀场所,更是古代泉州社会的教育与公民治理重地。儒家思想在此根植,深刻影响着社会的道德准则与价值观念

At the heart of the temple stands the Dacheng Hall, dedicated to Confucius, with statues and tablets honoring the great sage and his disciples. The hall is built in traditional southern Chinese style, with upturned eaves, carved beams, and tranquil courtyards. The courtyard is shaded by ancient pagoda trees which are symbols of scholarly virtue and integrity. These trees are often linked with success in the imperial examination system.

泉州孔庙的核心建筑,是庄严肃穆的大成殿,供奉着孔子及其弟子的塑像与牌位。大成殿采用典型的中国南方传统建筑风格,飞檐翘角、雕梁画栋。殿前庭院幽静古朴,绿荫掩映。这些古槐不仅增添了庭院的肃穆氛围,更象征着儒雅之德与正直之品,历来被视为文运昌盛、士子登科的吉兆。

Walking through the Quanzhou Confucian Temple feels like stepping into a realm of quiet reverence. The symmetry of the architecture and the echo of footsteps in stone courtyards evoked a scholarly world of centuries past. In the center of Dacheng Hall, the solemn figure is the statue of Confucius. Carved with a calm, dignified expression, Confucius is depicted in traditional scholar’s robes, his hands gently clasped in front of his chest in the posture of respect and self-discipline. In the center upper plaque, the phrase 万世师表” means “The Eternal Model Teacher for All Time”. It reflects the deep respect and reverence that generations of Chinese people—especially scholars and officials—have held for Confucius.

漫步于泉州文庙,仿佛步入一片静谧而庄严的圣境。古老建筑严整对称,石砌庭院中回荡的脚步声轻缓悠长,仿佛唤醒了尘封的记忆,将人带回那个儒风蔚然的时代。大成殿正中,孔子塑像巍然屹立,身披传统士大夫袍服,双手合抱于胸前,神情沉静而肃穆。殿堂上方,高悬着“万世师表”四字匾额,映照着千百年来中国文人雅士、士子官宦对至圣先师的崇高敬仰

The Chinese phrase “半城烟火半城仙” is a modern poetic description of Quanzhou, capturing its unique charm as a city where earthly life and spiritual heritage coexist in harmony. It means ‘Half a city of worldly bustle, half a city of sacred calm.’ As a major port in the Song-Yuan era, it was a global city, home to people of many religions, cultures, and trades. I walked through one historical street with centuries-old Buddhist pagoda, elegant mosque and shrine shrouded of incense smoke. Beliefs are not divided by East and West, and different cultures hold respect to each other.

“半城烟火半城仙”是对泉州最富诗意的当代表达,它精准捕捉了这座城市尘世烟火与精神遗产和谐共生的独特魅力。作为宋元时期举世闻名的港口,泉州曾是国际贸易的重要枢纽,也是一座多元文化交融的海上都市,吸引着来自世界各地的宗教信仰、技艺行会与异域族群。漫步于泉州街头,一条古老的街道两旁,历史的痕迹清晰可见。古朴庄严的佛塔、静穆典雅的清真寺、香火缭绕的庙宇并肩而立。信仰不分东西,文化彼此尊重.

The Qingjing Mosque was built in 1009 AD during the Northern Song Dynasty, it is the oldest extant Islamic mosque in China and a UNESCO-listed site. Unlike the wooden halls and eaves typical of Chinese religious structures, it is constructed primarily from white and gray granite in a style reminiscent of Middle Eastern Islamic architecture. This makes it visually and culturally distinct from the Buddhist and Daoist temples in the city. It is physical evidence of early Muslim communities in China, likely Yemeni or Persian merchants who settled in Quanzhou and assimilated into the local society during the Song and Yuan dynasties.

清净寺始建于北宋大中祥符二年(公元1009年),是中国现存最古老的伊斯兰清真寺,亦被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。不同于中国传统宗教建筑常见的木结构与飞檐斗拱,清净寺通体以灰白色花岗岩砌筑而成, 使人联想到中东地区典型的伊斯兰建筑风格。这种独特的石砌形制在泉州众多佛教、道教寺庙中格外醒目。清净寺更是早期穆斯林社群在泉州扎根的实物见证。印证了宋元时期阿拉伯、波斯等地的穆斯林商人曾在此定居、通商并深度融入当地社会。

Embedded within the Qingjing Mosque’s courtyard wall, the imperial edict of the Yongle Emperor stands as a powerful symbol of the Ming dynasty’s recognition and protection of Islam in Quanzhou. Issued in the early 15th century, the edict praises the virtue and loyalty of the Muslim community in Quanzhou and commands officials to respect and safeguard their religious practices. This not only reflects the country’s recognition of the religious rights of ethnic minorities, but also demonstrates Quanzhou’s open-mindedness in the coexistence of diverse cultures and religions.

在清净寺幽静的庭院中有一道嵌于墙壁的明代圣旨。这道圣旨出自永乐皇帝之手,颁于15世纪初,是明朝中央政权承认并保护泉州伊斯兰教的有力象征。圣旨不仅赞扬了泉州穆斯林群体的忠诚与品德,还明令地方官员尊重并维护其宗教信仰与生活习俗。这不仅体现了明政府对少数族群宗教权利的认可,也彰显了泉州在多元文化与宗教共存方面的开放胸怀。

In Quanzhou, the most crowded temple must be the The Tonghuai Guandi Temple. It does not belong to any religion and is dedicated to Guan Yu, the legendary general from the Three Kingdoms era who was both loyal and courageous. Guan Yu is worshiped not only for his military prowess but more importantly for his unwavering loyalty, righteousness, and moral integrity. This temple perfectly captures the city’s unique mix of tradition and folk belief that stretches back through centuries.

在泉州,最为热闹香火鼎盛的庙宇,当属通淮关帝庙。这座庙宇不隶属任何单一宗教体系,而是供奉三国时期的传奇将领关羽——一位集忠义、勇武于一身的历史人物。关羽之所以广受敬仰,不仅因其卓越的军事才能,更因为他忠诚不渝、刚正不阿的品格,早已超越历史人物的范畴。在泉州,关帝庙的存在,完美体现了地方传统和民间信仰的深度融合。

Despite the centuries that have passed, the temple is always filled with curling incense smoke and steady streams of worshipers. People come here to seek strength in times of difficulty. Business owners and families burn incense to ask for protection and prosperity. The main building like red-painted walls, intricate wooden carvings, and a series of arched roofs adorned with ceramic dragons is beautiful. But the air was heavy with the scent of incense when I traveled here and the area in front of the temple was surrounded by devotees bowing before the altar and offering sticks of incense.

尽管沧海桑田,岁月更迭,寺庙中依旧香烟缭绕,香客络绎不绝。困境中的人们来到此处,寻求力量与慰藉;商贩与家庭也焚香祈愿,盼得庇佑与昌盛。主殿巍然矗立,红漆墙壁凝重典雅,木雕精巧细腻,拱形屋顶上陶瓷神龙昂首盘踞,尽显匠心与气韵。此刻,浓烈的香火味弥漫在空气中,寺庙前人潮汇聚,虔诚的信众在神坛前肃然鞠躬、献香。

I continued to move to the Tianhou temple in the south of city. In Fujian province, for centuries, Mazu who is the Goddess of the Sea, has held a place of profound spiritual and cultural importance in the lives of the local people. Generations of their families lived by and through the sea. Mazu became their guardian deity. Even overseas, Fujianese migrants carried her image across oceans, building Mazu temples in Taiwan, Southeast Asia and Singapore. The Tianhou Temple is the sacred shrine dedicated to Mazu.

我继续向城南前行参观天后宫。几个世纪以来的福建,象征海洋庇佑的女神妈祖始终深深扎根于人们的精神与文化生活中。世世代代的闽人以海为生,他们的家族与海潮共息,与浪声为伴,妈祖便是守护他们平安归航的神灵。即使漂泊到万里之外,福建移民依然将妈祖的影响带往异乡,在台湾、东南亚乃至新加坡建立起一座座香火鼎盛的妈祖庙。天后宫便是这份信仰的圣地,承载着人们对海神的敬畏与崇敬。

The temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. At the heart of the temple, the statue of Mazu sits serene and dignified, often clothed in bright embroidered robes and wearing a crown of pearls. Flanking her are statues of her two loyal generals—Qianliyan and Shunfeng’er, said to help her see and hear everything happening across the seas. Red lanterns with many benedictory words line the eaves. Intricate stone carvings of dragons, phoenixes, and waves decorate the roof and doorways, evoking the temple’s connection to the ocean.

这座庙宇作为世界文化遗产的一部分。妈祖端坐于庙宇正中,神情庄严而安详,身披色彩鲜艳、绣工精美的长袍,头戴闪耀着珍珠光泽的冠冕。她的两侧立着千里眼与顺风耳的塑像,据传她们协助妈祖洞察海内外的风云变幻。檐下悬挂的红灯笼上书写众多的祝福语。屋顶与门道间,精雕细琢的龙凤与海浪纹饰交相辉映,诉说着庙宇与海洋血脉相连的深厚渊源。

In just one day, I visited numerous temples, each representing a distinct religious tradition. Next, I arrived at the Chengtian Temple which is a quiet and historically rich Buddhist sanctuary. Unlike larger and crowded temples full of tourists, Chengtian Temple is tranquil and calm. Though it may not draw tourists in large numbers, Chengtian Temple remains a living temple, still functioning with monks, prayers, and rituals.

短短一天,我已走访了众多寺庙,每一座都承载着独特的宗教传统与精神内涵。随后,我来到了承天寺这是一处静谧祥和、古韵悠长的佛教圣地。不同于那些香火鼎盛、游人如织的大型寺院,这里始终保持着从容与清净。或许它并不以规模与名声吸引大量游客,但殿宇之间依旧生机盎然:僧侣的诵经声、虔诚的祈祷与庄重的法事,依然如千百年来般流转不息。

First built in the Song Dynasty, Chengtian Temple has undergone numerous reconstructions across the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties. The name “Chengtian” (承天) literally means “receiving the mandate of Heaven” . As part of the UNESCO-listed heritage landscape, it shows how different religions coexisted peacefully in ancient Quanzhou. For the temple, there is nothing special but simple. The elegant layout follows traditional Chinese symmetry, with moss covered tiled roofs, historical wooden beams, and peaceful open courtyards. There is a small pagoda on top of the roof. It represents a connection between the earthly world and the spiritual realm and marks the temple as a sacred space where the divine and human meet.

承天寺始建于宋代,历经元、明、清三代多次修葺。其名“承天”,寓意“承受天命、顺应天道”。作为联合国教科文组织世界遗产的一部分,它见证了古代泉州多元宗教和谐共存的历史画卷。寺庙本身并不以奢华取胜,却以古朴而动人心弦。中轴对称的布局、覆以青瓦的屋顶、古韵悠长的木梁、静谧开敞的庭院,无不透露着传统建筑的雅致。屋脊之上,那座小巧的塔宛如天地之间的纽带,寓意神与人相会于此。

The UNESCO World Heritage site “Quanzhou: Emporium of the World in Song-Yuan China” includes a total of 22 component sites like Kaiyuan Temple, Qingjing Mosque, and Tianhou Temple. Luoyang Bridge is one of them as well. Built during the Northern Song Dynasty, Luoyang Bridge is renowned for being the first stone bridge in China built over tidal waters. It was constructed using raft foundations and oyster reef technology. Workers placed oysters at the base of stone piers to bind the underwater structures together. This ecological method made the foundation resilient to tides, erosion, and currents.

When I walked across the bridge over 800 meters long, I noticed rows of stone piers standing steadily in the river. I could imagine its history of connecting the bustling port city with inland roads, facilitating the movement of goods, people, and ideas during the height of the Maritime Silk Road.

联合国教科文组织评选出的世界遗产 “泉州:宋元时期的世界海洋商贸中心”涵盖了开元寺、清净寺、天后宫等22处历史遗迹,洛阳桥便是其中的重要一员。始建于北宋的洛阳桥,是中国第一座建于潮水上的石桥,以其独特的筏式基础与牡蛎礁筑造工艺闻名于世。工匠们在石墩底部铺设牡蛎,让其在水下自然生长,将结构紧密相连。这种生态智慧不仅稳固了桥基,还能抵御潮汐、侵蚀与急流的冲击。

漫步在这座长达八百余米的古桥上,只见一列列石墩如守望的卫士,静立于河面之中,历经千年风潮而不移。仿佛穿越时空,我能想象它在海上丝绸之路繁盛之际,如何将这座繁华的港口城市与内陆大道紧密相连,承载着货物、商旅与思想交流的使命。

I stayed in Quanzhou for two days. My first day concentrated on the humanity heritages like old streets in the old city and my second day was on some natural scenes. Qingyuan Mountain in the north of city is a place where visitors come to reconnect with nature. It is also a spiritual landmark, a place where nature, history, and Daoist thought merge into quiet harmony. Daoism is about understanding how the world works and becoming one with it.

我在泉州停留了两天。第一天沉浸于古城的人文遗产,徜徉于街巷之间;第二天则走向自然,寻访城北的清源山。这里不仅是重拾自然之美的胜地,更是一座精神地标。青山环抱间,自然、历史与道家思想在此交融,织就出一幅静谧而和谐的画卷。道家倡导顺应天地的运行规律,天人合一。

The Giant Stone Statue of Laozi is the mountain’s most famous feature. It was carved in the Song Dynasty. This makes Qingyuan Mountain a nationally significant site of Daoist worship and Laozi veneration. According to local legend and Daoist belief, Qingyuan Mountain is one of the places where Laozi, the ancient philosopher and founder of Daoism once visited, meditated, and eventually transcended the mortal world to become a Daoist deity. The inscription “老子天下第一” carved in front of the Laozi statue means “Laozi is the greatest under Heaven”. In Daoist tradition, Laozi is considered the origin of all wisdom, the one who taught the Dao—the Way that governs all things.

清源山最负盛名的景观,莫过于宋代雕刻的巨型老子石像。正因这尊雕像,清源山自古便被视为全国重要的道教圣地与宗教中心。相传哲学家、道教创始人老子曾在此驻足参悟,最终超脱凡尘、羽化登仙。石像前镌刻的“老子天下第一”四字,不仅彰显着“对老子作为天下第一圣人”的尊崇,更寓意他是道即万物法则的传授者与万世智慧的源泉。

This mountain is not only spiritually important in Daoist tradition, but also celebrated for its natural beauty. The mountain was covered in lush vegetation like ancient cypress trees lining the stone paths and a mix of evergreen and deciduous trees. I climbed from bottom to top along this road using nearly 2 hours.

这座山在道教传统中享有崇高的精神地位,同时也以其秀丽的自然风光闻名遐迩。山间植被繁茂,石板路两旁古柏参天,常绿与落叶乔木交织成四季更迭的画卷。我循着这条小径,自山脚而上,历时近两个小时,方抵达峰顶。

The mountain was dotted with weathered granite boulders, many of them engraved with ancient and durable calligraphy. These rocks were moss-covered, shaded by ferns and wildflowers. Natural springs bubbled from the mountain’s base and flowed gently through these rocks.

山间错落散布着经岁月侵蚀而风化的花岗岩巨石。许多岩面镌刻着古老的书法,字迹遒劲而沧桑。青苔沿着石缝蔓延,蕨类植物和野花掩映其间。山脚下,清冽的泉水汩汩涌出,绕过石间缓缓流淌。

On this early morning, mist rolled over the mountain ridges, creating a dreamlike effect. The view from higher altitudes offered a glimpse of the city through drifting clouds, a striking contrast between the spiritual landscape and modern life. I could roughly see the outline of West Lake faraway. This shifting mist seemed to reflect the Daoist idea of impermanence, of the seen reality and unseen future constantly transforming.

清晨,薄雾如纱,轻绕山峦,仿佛为大地披上了一层梦境。登高远眺,云雾间隐约显现出城市的轮廓,灵性的山水与喧嚣的都市交织成一幅对比鲜明的画卷。远方,西湖的身影若隐若现。那一缕缭绕不散的雾气,恰似道家所言的“无常”。可见与不可见、现实与未知,在流转与变化中相互交融。

In the afternoon, before I left, I took some time to visit the West Lake which is opposite to my hotel. Though not as famous as the West Lake in Hangzhou, it is still a beautiful, tranquil urban lake park that offers a peaceful escape and is infused with layers of historical charm. It is designed in the traditional Chinese garden style with curved stone bridges over calm water, lotus-filled ponds that bloom beautifully in summer, willow trees trailing their long branches into the lake, and graceful, poetic pavilions. The lake is far away from the city center, and I enjoyed a natural quietude.

下午离开前,我特意抽空去了酒店对面的西湖。它或许不及杭州西湖那般闻名遐迩,却依然是一处清雅静美的城市湖泊公园,既为人们提供一方悠然栖息的天地,又蕴藏着深厚的历史韵味。园林布局沿袭传统中式风格,曲折的石桥横跨在澄澈的水面之上,池塘中荷花正值盛夏的灿烂绽放,垂柳轻垂长枝拂水,亭台楼阁点缀其间,透出几分诗意与古韵。远离喧嚣的市中心,这里的清风与湖光,让我尽情享受片刻难得的宁静。

The Quanzhou Museum opposite to the beautiful West Lake provides deep insights into the city’s maritime, religious, and cultural history, particularly during its golden age as a major port on the Maritime Silk Road. There are rich, immersive exhibitions suitable for history lovers, students, and general travelers.

泉州博物馆坐落在秀丽的西湖之畔,与湖水相望。馆内全面呈现了泉州悠久的航海、宗教与文化历史,尤其生动再现了这座古城作为海上丝绸之路重要港口的辉煌年代。丰富多彩的展览内容兼具知识性与趣味性,无论是历史爱好者、莘莘学子,还是闲暇漫游的游客,都能在此收获一段难忘的文化之旅。

There are collections of rare Nestorian Christian tombstones, Arabic inscriptions, and ancient epitaphs. Many pieces were unearthed from cemeteries of foreign communities who lived in medieval Quanzhou. The porcelain exhibitions are a highlight of the Maritime Silk Road displays, showcasing the city’s central role in ceramic trade and production during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Blanc de Chine (Dehua white porcelain) is famous for its smooth, ivory-white glaze and is exported widely to Southeast Asia and Europe.

这里珍藏着稀有的基督教墓碑、阿拉伯文碑刻与古代墓志铭,其中许多出土于中世纪泉州外国社群的墓地。瓷器展区则是“海上丝绸之路”展览的亮点,生动呈现宋元时期泉州在陶瓷生产与贸易中的枢纽地位。德化白瓷以其温润如象牙的釉色闻名于世,远销东南亚与欧洲,见证了泉州海贸的辉煌与繁荣。

Inside, there is a large-scale model of ancient Quanzhou city, offering visitors a panoramic and immersive view of how the city looked during its golden age in the Song-Yuan period. I could clearly see the sinuous city walls, towering main gates (like Chaotian Gate), crossing streets, and the two towers of Kaiyuan Temple and immersed in its old history.

馆内陈设着一座宏伟的泉州古城模型,宛如将宋元盛世的辉煌凝固于眼前。城墙蜿蜒环绕,气势恢宏的朝天门巍然矗立,街道纵横交错,开元寺双塔相对而立,使人仿佛穿越时空,沉浸于古城的繁华与韵味之中。

During my trip I tasted the Minnan cuisine, which is especially representative of the southern Fujian region, including cities like Quanzhou, Xiamen, and Zhangzhou. It is known for its refined techniques, fresh ingredients, delicate flavors, and a touch of sweetness. The Four Fruit Soup is a cold dessert with four toppings like transparent jelly cubes, sweetened red beans, soft lotus seeds, and crisp Nata de coco. It is lightly sweetened and topped with condensed milk, taste not so saturated.

旅途中,我品尝到地道的闽南菜。它是福建南部饮食文化的精粹,涵盖泉州、厦门、漳州等地的风味。闽南菜以精湛的烹饪技艺、新鲜食材、细腻而层次丰富的口感,以及那一抹恰到好处的甜味而闻名。其中,四果汤是一道沁人心脾的冷甜品,碗中盛着晶莹的果冻块、香甜的红豆、软糯的莲子与爽脆的椰果,四种配料交织成清凉的乐章,再淋上一圈浓郁的炼乳,甜而不腻。

The Oyster omelette is one of the most iconic and beloved dishes in Minnan cuisine, widely enjoyed in Quanzhou as well as in Taiwan and parts of Southeast Asia like Singapore. It is a must-try street food that perfectly captures the flavors and textures unique to the coastal Fujianese palate. It a savory dish made with fresh oysters and eggs. Sweet potato starch slurry is mixed into the egg to give the dish a chewy texture. Chopped leafy greens or scallions are added. It is pan-fried on a flat griddle until crispy on the bottom and soft on top. A key part of the dish is the sweet-sour chili sauce that’s generously spooned over the omelette after it’s cooked. It can be a satisfying snack for a seafood lover like me.

海蛎煎是闽南菜中最具代表性也最受喜爱的菜菜品,在泉州、台湾以及新加坡等东南亚地区都享有盛誉。它是街头小吃里的璀璨明珠,将福建沿海的独特风味与口感完美呈现。选用新鲜饱满的牡蛎,搭配鸡蛋与红薯淀粉浆,煎制出的蛋饼外脆内嫩,带着恰到好处的韧性。再拌入翠绿的蔬菜或清香的葱段,于热腾腾的铁板上煎至金黄酥香。出锅后,淋上一勺酸甜微辣的酱汁,咸香与酸辣并存。对于钟情海鲜的食客而言,这道小吃绝对是味蕾的满足。

Ginger Duck is a traditional and deeply flavorful dish of Minnan cuisine. It is made of aged ginger with stronger spiciness and tender duck meat. The dish is usually simmered in a clay pot over low heat, allowing the ingredients to infuse and develop a rich, savory broth. Sesame oil is used to stir-fry the ginger and rice wine is added, both for flavor and warmth. Herbs and spices like goji berries, red dates, star anise, and angelica root are included for their traditional medicinal value. The taste is nice, a bit warming, spicy and lightly sweet.

姜母鸭是闽南传统名肴,以浓郁醇厚的风味著称。精选肥嫩鸭肉,佐以辛香四溢的老姜,以芝麻油文火慢炒,激发姜香的同时,渗出温暖的热意。随后倾入米酒,酒香与姜辣交织,驱寒暖身。再加入枸杞、红枣、八角、当归等具传统药食价值的香料,历经陶罐慢火细炖。入口鲜美,辛辣中透着甘甜,温暖中蕴含滋补。

Exploring Quanzhou has been a deeply immersive journey. It felt like stepping into a living tapestry woven from centuries of history, culture, and spiritual harmony. Wandering through its ancient streets, majetic temples, and bustling markets, I sensed the city’s heartbeat pulsing with the stories of diverse peoples who once gathered here as traders or pilgrims. Quanzhou offers me a rare glimpse into a crossroads of world cultures — where Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, and Daoism coexist peacefully; where the legacy of the Maritime Silk Road still echoes in every stone bridge and mosque; where time slows down amidst verdant mountains and tranquil lakes.

泉州之行宛如一场深情的时光之旅,让人沉醉其中,仿佛步入了一幅由数百年历史、文化与精神交织而成的绚丽画卷。行走在古老的街巷、庄严的寺庙和熙攘的市集间,我仿佛能触摸到这座城市的跳动脉搏,那是多元民族的故事在时光长河中交织的回响。泉州展现了作为世界文化的交汇之地,佛教、伊斯兰教、基督教与道教和谐共处;海上丝绸之路的昔日遗产依旧在每一座石桥、每一座庙宇中低语。时光在翠绿群山与宁静湖泊间缓缓流淌,带给游客无尽的宁静与回味。

Following the Immortals on Heavenly Paths of Wuyi

仙踪云路武夷行

In the quiet cradle of northwest Fujian lies a sacred land called Wuyi Mountain. This UNESCO World Heritage site is like a living poem, etched in cliffs and whispered by waters, where Taoist sages, Confucian scholars, and tea masters once walked in reflection. Wuyi is not only known for its breathtaking landscapes — crimson cliffs, emerald rivers, and cloud-kissed peaks — but for its legendary rock tea and the graceful balance between culture and nature. I spent three days in this beautiful place during my Christmas trip in 2024 and caught its most splendid moment from morning to evening using my camera.

福建西北部静谧的群山坐落着一片名为武夷的旅游圣地。这座被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的瑰宝,如同一首镌刻在赤壁丹崖上的活诗,山水之间低吟浅唱,道家高士、儒家学者与茶道大师皆曾在此驻足沉思。武夷山不仅以其令人叹为观止的自然美景著称——赤红的岩壁、碧绿的溪流、云雾缭绕的山峰如画卷般铺展开来——更因其传奇的岩茶与自然、人文交融的独特气质而闻名于世。2024年圣诞节,我在这里度过了三天的悠然时光,用镜头追逐晨曦与暮霭,记录下武夷山最动人的瞬间

As the first rays of morning pierced the veil of winter mist, the tea fields of Wuyi Mountain began to stir. The golden sun poured its light across the terraced slopes like warm honey. It spilled over the ridges with a quiet generosity, wrapping the emerald bushes in a soft glow. Shadows retreated behind stone ridges, and the winter chill that once clung to the earth began to ease. In that moment, under the golden winter sun, the tea fields breathe again — calm, green, and alive.

当清晨第一缕柔光突破冬日的薄雾,武夷山的茶田悄然苏醒。金色的晨曦似温暖的蜜,倾泻于错落的梯田之上,为每一株翠绿的茶树披上了柔和的光纱。随着阴影渐渐退到石脊之后,那曾笼罩大地的寒意也随之散去。就在这金色的冬日晨光中,茶田再度焕发出生机——一片宁静、翠绿且充满生命力的景象。

By midday, the sun stood high above its jade-carved ridges, the sunlight was no longer gentle, but bright and steady — like a lantern held by heaven itself. The mist of morning has melted away, revealing the full grandeur of the mountain’s contours. Below, the Nine-Bend Stream flowed with tranquil rhythm, its surface catching fragments of sunlight like broken mirrors. The river bends reflected the sky and mountain, turning blue and green into liquid silk. At this moment, the mountains basked in the warmth cozily.

正午时分,太阳高悬于玉脊之巅,阳光不再柔和,炙热而明亮,如同一盏高高升起的金色灯笼。晨雾早已散去,群山的雄伟轮廓清晰显现,仿佛沉默的巨人肃立在天地之间。九曲溪悄然流淌在山脚下,水面宛如碎裂的镜子,反射着阳光的碎金。河湾中,山峦与天空倒映其间,蓝与绿交织成流动的丝绸,轻轻荡漾。此刻,万物静谧,唯有阳光洒落在山巅与水面,群山仿佛在这金色的洗礼中微微舒展,尽显从容与惬意。

As the sun began its descent behind the distant ridge lines, Xiannü Peak caught the day’s final light. Her gentle silhouette, carved with grace and quiet dignity, stood bathed in a golden radiance, as if she herself is aglow from within. Pale rose, soft gold, and lavender hues wrapped around her like flowing robes of silk. The surrounding peaks darkened, but Xiannü Peak remained luminous and serene, like a goddess suspended between heaven and earth.

当夕阳缓缓沉入远方的山脊,仙女峰悄然捕捉到这一天最后的余晖。她柔和的轮廓在暮色中愈发清晰,如同被雕刻出的宁静与优雅,沐浴在一抹金色的光芒中,仿佛自身也在发光。淡玫瑰、柔金与浅紫交织成梦幻的色彩,如轻纱长裙般环绕其身,为她披上神秘而圣洁的外衣。周围群峰渐渐黯淡,唯有仙女峰依旧熠熠生辉,安详矗立,如一位悬浮于天地之间的女神,静观日落,凝视永恒。

I lived in the hotel not far away from the scenic area. From the streets of Wuyi City, the mountains rose not far away, their green silhouettes etched clearly against the sky. Standing on this bridge, I could easily catch sight of the rolling ridges and majestic cliffs. The boundary between city and mountain here feels soft.

我下榻在一间临近景区的酒店,举目望去,武夷山市街道的尽头便是群山环绕。翠绿的山峦在天幕下轮廓分明,仿佛触手可及。站在桥上眺望,连绵起伏的山脊与雄伟的悬崖一览无遗,如画卷般铺展开来。在这片土地上,城市与山脉仿佛渐渐融为一体,界限变得模糊,仿佛自然悄然渗入了城市的肌理之中

It is really a sanctuary for the weary heart, a place where every breath feels lighter, every step slower. Here, the pace of life softens naturally. Even while walking along the quiet streets, relaxation comes easily. The sky stretched wide and endlessly blue, like a silk canopy unfurled above. The green peaks stood nearby, calm and ever-present. They seemed close enough to touch, always within sight, as if the mountains were quietly keeping company with the town below. As I strolled through the city, the scene was like a living painting—crystal-clear waters meandering through town, their surfaces shimmering under the sunlight, mirroring the sky and cliffs above. The river glided slowly, and its calm flow seemed to carry away every worry.

这里真是一处治愈疲惫心灵的圣地。空气清新,连呼吸都变得轻盈,脚步也不由自主地慢了下来。在这里,生活的节奏仿佛自然地放缓了,就连随意走宁静的街道上,也能让人感到从容与自在。湛蓝如洗的天空,如丝绸般轻柔地铺展开来,令人心旷神怡。近处的群山苍翠欲滴,静谧安然,仿佛就守护在城市的边缘,不动声色地陪伴着每一位过客。它们始终停留在视野之中,带来一种踏实的安宁。漫步城中,眼前的景象犹如一幅流动的画卷。清澈的河水静静蜿蜒穿过城镇,水面在阳光下泛着粼粼波光,映照着蔚蓝的天空与巍峨的山崖。河水缓缓流淌,仿佛把心头的烦忧一并带走,让人心随水远,宁静而澄澈。

There are four major scenic spots in Wuyi Mountain: Tianyou Mountain, The One-Line Sky, Tiger Roaring Rock, and Xiannü Peak. Visitors can go to each place by buses connecting every scenic spot. The travel infrastructure in the area is perfect. Travelers can choose any ways they want like strolling quietly along the stream, direct buses, rugged mountain paths or a romantic trip of bamboo rafts.

武夷山风景区主要包括四大核心景区:天游山、一线天、虎啸岩和仙女峰。各景点之间有观光巴士相连,交通便利,游客可以轻松往返其间。武夷山的旅游基础设施十分完善,无论是沿溪漫步,感受宁静自然;还是搭乘直达巴士,快捷省心;亦或沿着蜿蜒的山路徒步探幽,体验探险之趣;又或是乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪上,享受诗意浪漫的水上之旅,游客皆可依自身喜好自由选择,畅游其间。

Hailed as the most iconic peak of Wuyi Mountain, Tianyou Mountain — meaning “Heavenly Tour Peak” — is a place where the earth seems to merge with the sky. Rising to an elevation of about 408 meters, it is known as the “First Wonderland of Wuyi” and is a must-visit for those seeking the essence of Wuyi’s beauty. The mountain is straight and steep like a very tall wall raised in front of me.

天游山被誉为武夷山最具标志性的山峰。在这里,天地仿佛交融,云雾缭绕间,仿佛步入人间仙境。山峰海拔约408米,有“武夷第一仙境”之称,是领略武夷山之美不可错过的胜地。山势陡峭挺拔,仿佛一道高墙巍然矗立在眼前,既震撼又令人心生敬畏。

The climb to the summit winds through 888 steep stone steps, ancient pines, and dramatic cliffs. Along the way, travelers are very tired but greeted by stunning views of emerald peaks and the famous Nine-Bend Stream curling gracefully below like a jade ribbon. As I ascended higher, the morning mist thinned, the beauty of Wuyi unfolded in my eyes gradually.

攀登顶峰之路蜿蜒曲折,沿途是888级陡峭的石阶,穿行于古松参天、悬崖峭壁交错的山林之间。一路上,游客们虽疲惫不堪,却也被眼前的美景所吸引:翠绿的山峰层层叠叠,九曲溪宛如玉带般在山谷中蜿蜒流淌。随着海拔逐渐升高,缭绕的晨雾缓缓散去,武夷山的壮丽风光也在我眼前徐徐铺展,令人心旷神怡,忘却疲惫。

At the summit, the reward is breathtaking — a panoramic view of the entire Wuyi landscape. Tea fields ripple across the hills, the transparent and clear winding stream glistens like silk, and distant ridges stand in layered blues and greens. On clear days, the sky feels close enough to touch, and the clouds drift past at eye level, creating the sensation of walking through the heavens.

登顶之时,眼前展现出令人叹为观止的壮丽景色——武夷山的秀美尽收眼底。茶田如绿毯般蜿蜒于起伏的山峦之间,清澈透明的溪流宛如丝绸般闪耀,远方的山脊层层叠叠,碧波荡漾。晴朗的天空仿佛伸手可及,云朵轻轻飘过眼前,犹如漫步于天际之间。

The tea terraces represent centuries of craftsmanship and culture of Wuyi. Layer upon layer, the terraces ripple across the slopes like emerald waves, following the curves of the mountains. Here, the famous rock tea grows and is nourished by the mineral-rich soil and the unique mountain mist that drifts through the air. The tea bushes cling to the rugged terrain, their deep roots reaching into cracks of ancient stone. In the early morning, the terraces were veiled in soft fog. As the sun rises, its light gradually melt away the mist, revealing glistening leaves covered with tiny dew droplets, shimmering under the golden glow.

茶叶梯田凝聚了武夷数百年的工艺与文化。层层叠叠的梯田宛如碧波荡漾,沿着山峦的曲线蜿蜒而上。这里生长着著名的岩茶,富含矿物质的土壤和弥漫于空气中的独特山雾滋养着茶树。茶树依傍着崎岖的地形,根系深入古老的石缝之中。清晨时分,梯田被轻柔的雾气笼罩,随着太阳冉冉升起,阳光渐渐驱散薄雾,露出晶莹剔透的茶叶,叶面挂满晶莹的露珠,在金色光芒的映照下熠熠生辉。

Da Hong Pao is called the “King of Rock Teas”. The name Da Hong Pao, meaning “Big Red Robe,” originates from a centuries-old legend. It is said that during the Ming Dynasty, a scholar traveling to the imperial exams fell gravely ill while passing through Wuyi Mountain. Local monks brewed him tea from a special bush growing on the cliffs. After drinking it, he recovered miraculously, went on to excel in his exams, and became a high-ranking official. In gratitude, the emperor sent great red robes to cover the bushes that had produced the miraculous tea.

大红袍,被誉为“岩茶之王”,因其背后流传百年的传奇故事而增添神秘色彩。相传在明朝,一位赴京赶考的书生途经武夷山,不幸染上重病。山中僧人以生长在悬崖峭壁上的一种奇特茶树之叶为他煮茶,书生饮后病体迅速痊愈,顺利参加科举并金榜题名,最终官拜高位。得知此事的皇帝为表嘉奖,特命人将大红袍披于这几株灵茶之上,“大红袍”之名由此流传至今。

In this photo, the six mother trees of Da Hong Pao preserved in the red rails are regarded as national treasures. Due to their extreme rarity and cultural value, harvesting leaves from these ancient bushes has been strictly forbidden since 2006 to preserve them for future generations.

照片中,红色篱笆围护着六棵大红袍母树,被誉为国宝。因其极为珍稀且具有重要的文化价值,自2006年起便被全面禁止采摘,以永久保护这一珍贵遗产,传承给子孙后代。

Wuyi Mountain is laced with countless winding paths, inviting travelers to explore its hidden corners. As I wandered through its serene valleys, it wasn’t just the towering cliffs and emerald waters that drew my gaze. Scattered across moss-covered walls and carved into the rugged cliffs are hundreds of stone inscriptions—some weathered and fading with time, others still strikingly vivid. These ancient etchings feel like whispers from the past. Walking past them, I felt as though I were retracing the footsteps of explorers like Xu Xiake, following the trails they once walked.

武夷山蜿蜒曲折,无数小径在山林间穿行,仿佛在邀请旅人去探寻那些隐秘而静谧的角落。漫步于宁静的山谷,不仅是巍峨的峭壁和碧波荡漾的溪流吸引着我,更多的是岩壁间那些沉默却深刻的印记。青苔斑驳的石壁上,散布着上百处石刻——有的已随岁月风化,模糊了轮廓;有的却依然清晰如昨,气韵犹存。它们仿佛是历史在低语,是前人留下的心声。在这样的山路上前行,我仿佛化身为徐霞客,沿着他当年的足迹,穿越时光。

Winter is better time to visit Wuyi. Most of the evergreen trees—such as pine and bamboo—remain lush and steadfast, their deep green needles and leaves standing firm against the cool air. They blanket the slopes and line the streams. Some maples and sweet gum trees blush with lingering shades of amber, gold, and soft crimson, their leaves fluttering lightly in the wind. The colors are not as fiery as autumn.

冬季是游览武夷山的最佳时节。山中大多数常绿树木,如松树和竹子,依然郁郁葱葱、挺拔苍翠,深绿的枝叶在清冷的空气中显得更加坚韧有力。这些绿色植物覆盖着山坡,沿着潺潺溪流蜿蜒伸展,构成一幅宁静而和谐的冬日画卷。而少数枫树与枫香树,则悄然披上了琥珀、金黄与浅红的斑斓色彩,叶片在山风中轻轻摇曳,虽不如深秋时节那般绚烂,却平添几分静美。

I was heading towards the next destination. As sunlight filtered through the thin winter clouds, the mountain glowed with a quiet radiance—green pines, yellow flowers and golden-brown leaves weave a soft, peaceful tapestry. The air is fresh, cool, and still, and every step through the mountain feels like walking through an ink-wash painting, immersing into nature.

我正缓步朝着下一个目的地前行。阳光穿透冬日薄云,洒落在山峦之间,为大地披上一层温柔的光辉。翠绿的松树、明黄的野花与金棕色的落叶交织成一幅宁静的锦绣画卷。空气清新而凉爽,四周静谧无声。每一步登上山道,都仿佛踏入一幅流动的水墨画,让人沉醉于大自然的诗意之中。

The One-Line Sky was the second scenic spot during my visit in Wuyi. It is a narrow gorge formed by the shifting and splitting of massive rock layers over countless years. It stretches for about 100 meters between two towering stone walls that lean so closely together that, in many parts, only a sliver of sky is visible overhead. I was really scary walking through it since the narrowest sections are barely wide enough for me to pass through, with only a faint band of light high above. The passage twisted and wound, revealing unexpected turns and I paused and looked up at the sliver of blue sky above. the air feels thick and cool. With every step deeper into the gorge, there was a growing sense of suffocation due to the overwhelming closeness of the space. The echo of footsteps reverberates eerily, amplifying the isolation.

一线天是我在武夷山游览的第二个景点。它是一条狭长幽深的峡谷,由亿万年间岩层的挤压与断裂逐渐形成,绵延百余米。两侧石壁高耸入云,几乎贴合在一起,只在顶部留下一线天光。踏入峡谷,最初是惊叹,但很快便被一种莫名的压迫感所笼罩。最狭窄的地方几乎无法侧身通过,头顶只剩下一道细如丝缕的蓝天。峡谷蜿蜒曲折,每一个转角都让人猝不及防。我不时停下脚步,抬头望向那一线天光。峡谷深处空气愈发阴冷,湿润的岩壁透出寒意。脚步声在狭窄空间中回荡,回声奇异,仿佛有人悄然跟随,让人倍感孤独与渺小。随着深入,一种窒息般的幽闭感慢慢加剧。

I quickened my pace, drawn forward by the unspoken desire to escape the closing grip of the rocks. As I finally emerged from the tightest stretch, the gorge widened and light flooded back in. There is an undeniable sense of being safe and free as if the wideness and warmness of world has returned to me.

我加快了脚步,心中那股无声的渴望驱使着我不断前行,只想逃离岩壁的压迫与束缚。终于,从那最狭窄的一段豁然走出,峡谷陡然开阔,阳光倾泻而下。一种难以言喻的安全感与自由感在胸中油然而生,仿佛重新呼吸到了世界的宽阔与温暖。

Among the many peaks that grace Wuyi Mountain, Xiannü Peak — also known as Fairy Maiden Peak stands out with its graceful beauty and timeless legend. Rising quietly by the riverbanks, this peak is famed for its elegant silhouette, said to resemble a celestial maiden wrapped in flowing robes, gazing softly over the landscape like a guardian.

武夷山群峰林立,其中仙女峰尤为引人注目,以其婀娜多姿的身姿与流传千古的传说而著称。仙女峰静静耸立在溪水之畔,线条柔美、轮廓清晰,远望宛如一位身着飘逸长袍的仙女,静静地凝望着四周的山水,仿佛在守护这片人间仙境。

Local legend tells of a celestial fairy who descended from heaven to help tame the floods and protect the people of Wuyi. She fell in love with the land and chose to remain, watching over the valleys and rivers below. Her spirit, as the story goes, became forever entwined with the mountain, her compassion and beauty eternally preserved in the stone.

相传,远古时有一位仙女自天而降,为助武夷百姓平息洪水,守护山川。她为这片青山绿水所倾心,甘愿留下,化作山灵,庇佑万物。人们说,她的灵魂早已与武夷山脉融为一体,她的慈悲与美丽,也悄然镌刻在山间岩石之上,亘古不灭。

I took a rest basked under the warm sunlight on the riverbanks to admire her from below. From this vantage point, the Fairy Maiden appears to watch over the winding Nine-Bend Stream , her reflection is visible in the shimmering waters. This must be the most iconic scene of Wuyi. On midday, when the sun cast clear shadows on the cliffs, her figure grew more distinct, standing tall and poised against the blue sky. In this quiet space, surrounded by mountains and clear stream, I simply sat — no rush, just basking in the sunlight. It felt as though the mountain itself was sharing its timeless serenity with me.

我坐在河岸边,沐浴着温暖的阳光,稍作歇息,抬头仰望那仙女般的山峰。从这个角度望去,仙女仿佛正俯瞰着脚下蜿蜒流淌的九曲溪,身影倒映在粼粼波光中,宛如一幅静谧的画卷。这里,大概是武夷山最具标志性的景致。正午的阳光洒落在峭壁之间,光影勾勒出仙女更加清晰的轮廓。在蓝天白云的映衬下,她显得巍峨而又优雅。四周群山环抱,溪水澄澈透明,我静静地坐着,不急不躁,只是安然地沉浸在这片阳光与山水交融的宁静中。此刻,仿佛连山峰本身也在与我一同分享它那恒久的安详与从容。

I enjoyed spending free time on the riverbank and looked at the bamboo rafts passing by one by one. The water here is as clear as glass, flowing gently over smooth stones and pebbles that glimmer beneath the surface like hidden jewels. In the quiet bends, the stream appears almost motionless, perfectly mirroring the surrounding cliffs, forests, and blue sky above. Lean closer and I could see right to the bottom—tiny fish dart between stones, leaves drift gracefully by, and the soft sands seems to glow with light.

我喜欢在河岸边悠闲地消磨时光,静静地看着一艘艘竹筏缓缓划过水面。这里的河水清澈如镜,轻柔地流过光滑的石块与圆润的鹅卵石,阳光透过水面洒下,它们在水中熠熠生辉,宛若深藏的宝石。静谧的河湾仿佛时光停驻,水面如天然画布,倒映着两岸的悬崖、茂密的林木,和蔚蓝天空。俯身靠近水面,我能清晰地望见河底的世界—小鱼灵巧地穿梭于石缝之间,落叶轻盈地随水漂流,细软的沙粒在阳光照射下泛着点点微光。

For every traveler, drifting on a bamboo raft along the Nine-Bend Stream is an experience not to be missed on a journey through Wuyi. As the raft gently sets off from the riverbank, the world seems to quiet. The only sounds are the soft splash of water against bamboo and the occasional call of a distant bird echoing through the valley.

对于每一位踏上武夷之旅的旅行者而言,乘坐竹筏漂流于九曲溪之上,都是不可错过的心灵体验。当竹筏缓缓离岸,喧嚣悄然退去,仿佛整个世界都静止了。耳畔只剩下潺潺水声轻拍竹筏,与山谷间偶尔传来的几声鸟鸣。

My trip of bamboo raft started in the very early morning with chill. The raft itself was simple — long bamboo poles lashed together, guided by a skilled boatman who stood at the stern, using a slender pole to steer. With each push, the raft glided smoothly over the crystal-clear waters, moving as effortlessly as a cloud drifting across the sky. The boatman paused halfway, allowing me to take beautiful photos while on the raft.

我的竹筏之旅始于空气清新,气温宜人的清晨。竹筏造型简易结实,由数根粗大的竹竿整齐捆扎而成。一位技艺娴熟的船夫站在筏尾,手持长杆掌舵。他每轻轻一撑,竹筏便在清澈的水面上平稳滑行,仿佛天边的云朵一般轻盈悠然。途中,船夫贴心地停下,让我可以在竹筏上尽情拍照,定格这份美好。

The scenery unfolded slowly, like a painting in motion. On both sides, towering cliffs rose steeply, their faces marked by ancient stone inscriptions and streaked with moss. Above, emerald peaks pierced the sky, some shrouded in mist, others basking in sunlight. Pine trees and bamboo groves leaned over the banks, their reflections swaying gently in the water below.

九曲溪景色徐徐铺展,如同一幅动态的画卷。两岸峭壁巍然耸立,崖壁间布满古老的石刻,青苔斑驳,诉说着岁月的痕迹。远处,翠峰高耸,或隐没在缭绕的云雾中,或沐浴在柔和的阳光里。岸边,松林与竹影相依,倒映在清澈的水面上,随风轻轻摇曳。

As the raft rounds each bend of the meandering stream, new vistas appeared—sometimes a narrow passage where cliffs almost touched. At that moment, I felt completely immersed in the landscape—half drifting, half dreaming. The mountain breeze brushed my face, carrying the faint scent of winter leaves. I enjoyed such a trip of around two hours. My boatman shared legends of the peaks like tales of immortals and lovers. As I glided along, there was no rush, only the soft rhythm of water and the endless unfolding of beauty.

木筏绕过蜿蜒溪流的每一个弯道,新的景致便悄然展开—有时是悬崖两岸几近相接的狭窄水道。此刻仿佛身心完全融入山水之间,半在漂流半入梦。冬叶的淡淡清香伴随山风轻抚我的脸庞,令人心神宁静。这趟约莫两个小时的旅程,如诗如画。船夫娓娓道来山峰的传说以及神仙与恋人的往事。当我随着水流缓缓前行,整个旅程不急不躁,只有溪水温柔的韵律,和眼前无尽的风景相伴。

Wuyi mountain is a perfect place for travelers to spend holidays. I enjoyed the moment when I walked alone the winding mountain path, surrounded by towering cliffs and whispering forests. The stone trail twisted ahead, empty and quiet—no voices, no footsteps, only the soft rustling of leaves and the distant murmur of water tumbling over rocks.

武夷山绝对是旅行者度假的理想之地。漫步于蜿蜒山径之间,仿佛走入一幅静谧的山水画。四周是巍峨的崖壁与低语的森林,石板路在脚下延伸,空旷而宁静——无人的喧嚣,无声的脚步,只有树叶在风中细语,和远处溪水轻拍岩石的呢喃。

There were no other travelers in sight; it felt as though the entire mountain had been reserved just for me. With no one around, I unlocked my phone and switched on the music player. Soon, my favorite song filled my ears, wrapping me in its familiar melody. As the music played, every step seemed lighter, every turn in the path more magical. The rhythm of the song blended with the sounds of nature. In that moment, the whole world seemed to belong to me alone.

四周寂静无声,仿佛整座山峰都为我独自矗立。我掏出手机,打开音乐播放器。熟悉的旋律随即在耳畔响起,将我轻柔包裹。随着音乐缓缓流淌,每一步都变得轻盈,每一道山路的转角仿佛藏着惊喜。歌声与林间鸟鸣、风声水语交织成一首只属于我的交响乐。那一刻,天地辽阔,世界仿佛只为我一人存在。

After ascending winding stone steps shaded by bamboo and ancient pines, I reached one ancient temple called Zhizhi An (止止庵), one of the mountain’s oldest and most secluded temples. Along the way, I could hear the sound of trickling springs and bird calls, as if leading me deeper into the mountain’s heart.

沿着蜿蜒曲折的石阶前行,两侧竹林掩映,古松苍翠,我一步步走向深山中的一座古寺——止止庵。它是山中最古老也最幽静的寺庙之一。一路上,泉水潺潺流淌,鸟鸣清脆婉转,仿佛在引领我走进一片世外之境,

Unlike grand, ornate temples found elsewhere, Zhizhi An is modest, blending gracefully into its mountain setting. Its old stone walls are weathered and moss-covered. Built during the Song Dynasty, the temple has long been associated with Zhu Xi (朱熹), one of China’s most renowned Confucian scholars. It is said that Zhu Xi once practiced quiet meditation here, finding inspiration amid its peaceful surroundings.

止止庵与其他宏伟华丽的寺庙迥然不同,朴素而低调,优雅地融入群山之中。古老的石墙历经风霜洗礼,覆盖着青苔,诉说着岁月的痕迹。这座始建于宋代的寺庙,与中国著名儒学大家朱熹有着深厚渊源。传闻朱熹曾在此静心修学,于宁静幽雅的环境中汲取智慧与灵感。

When I arrived, I was greeted not by grandeur, but by quiet simplicity: a small courtyard framed by old trees and delicate pot plants, and I could smell the faint scent of incense drifting through the air. The tranquility here reminded me the name of this temple which means “Stop and Stop”—a phrase that speaks of halting both physical steps and restless thoughts. When I visited it, my travel in Wuyi would end soon and this will be my last stop of this journey in Wuyi.

抵达这里时,迎接我的不是壮丽的气势,而是一种宁静而古朴的氛围:一个幽静的小院落,古树环绕,盆栽点缀,空气中弥漫着淡淡的香火清香。这份静谧让我联想到寺庙的名字——“止”,寓意着脚步与思绪的停歇。此刻,武夷之旅即将画上句号。

Before I left, I tasted the local dishes in Wuyi Mountain. This region is close to the Jiangxi province and the food is quite spicy. The spicy bamboo shoots fried with sauerkraut is a dish that perfectly captures the bold, rustic flavors of the region. Fresh bamboo shoots, harvested from the thick groves surrounding the cliffs, are prized for their crisp texture. They are stir-fried together with local sauerkraut. The bamboo shoots soak up the rich, spicy flavors of dried chili peppers and fragrant oil, creating a satisfying contrast between crunchy, sour, and spicy. It pairs perfectly with a bowl of freshly steamed rice.

离开武夷山之前,我特地品尝了这里的当地美食。武夷山靠近江西省,当地菜肴偏爱辛辣口味。其中,酸菜炒笋堪称一道地道的乡村佳肴。选用悬崖峭壁附近茂密竹林中采摘的新鲜竹笋,竹笋以其爽脆的质地闻名。竹笋与酸菜一同翻炒,充分吸收了干辣椒和香油的浓郁香辣,口感爽脆且酸辣交织,令人回味无穷。这道美味配上一碗新鲜出炉的米饭,堪称完美搭配。

Wuyi Smoked Duck is one of the region’s most iconic dishes, known for its rich, smoky fragrance and tender meat. Every visitor should try it. The duck is first marinated with local spices and salt, then slowly smoked over a fire fueled by tea leaves, pinewood, and camphor branches—a method unique to the Wuyi region. The result is a beautifully bronzed duck with crisp skin and juicy, flavorful meat, infused with a subtle hint of tea and mountain herbs. It’s a dish that perfectly embodies Wuyi’s culinary style.

武夷烟熏鸭是当地最具代表性的美味佳肴,以其浓郁的烟熏香气和鲜嫩多汁的肉质闻名遐迩。每位来到武夷的游客都不容错过这道特色美食。制作过程中,选用优质鸭子,先用当地独特的香料和盐进行腌制,再采用武夷特有的熏制工艺——用茶叶、松木和樟树枝点燃的柴火,缓缓熏烤而成。成品鸭色泽金黄诱人,外皮酥脆,肉质细嫩鲜美,伴随着淡淡的茶香和山药的清幽芳香,令人回味无穷。这道菜完美展现了武夷独特的烹饪魅力和地域风味。

As a solo traveler, I found a rare kind of freedom here. Whether wandering the secluded mountain trails with only the sound of my footsteps or simply sitting by the river, letting the winter sun warm my face, I felt completely at ease. In Wuyi, there is no need to chase sights or rush between attractions. The beauty here is best savored slowly, like a fine cup of rock tea—letting the flavors unfold naturally, each moment revealing something new. For me, the best journeys are the ones where I can travel in my favorite rhythm and experience with my heart!

作为一名独自旅行的旅人,我在这里找到了久违的自由与宁静。漫步在幽静的山间小径,脚步声在林间回响,仿佛与自然对话;坐在河畔,任由冬日暖阳洒在身上,温柔得让人几乎忘了时间。在武夷,无需赶路,无需打卡,每一处风景都不必刻意追寻。它如一杯上好的岩茶,越是静心品味,越能感受到层层叠叠的韵味与惊喜。对我而言,最理想的旅程,就是顺着自己的节奏,慢慢走、用心体验每一刻!

Echoes from the old towns of Lijiang

丽江古城之回响

In the embrace of the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang is perfect travel place where the past dances gracefully with the present. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, this ancient town is a living canvas of culture and history, with its cobblestone streets, winding alleys, and traditional wooden houses steeped in stories of centuries gone by. Lijiang’s charm is undeniable, its picturesque beauty capturing the hearts of all who wander its enchanting pathways.

丽江坐落于雄伟壮丽的玉龙雪山怀抱之中,是一处古今交融的旅行胜地。作为联合国教科文组织旗下的世界遗产,这座古城如同一幅鲜活的历史画卷,各处鹅卵石街道、蜿蜒曲折的小巷和传统的木屋都承载着几个世纪的沧桑。丽江的魅力毋庸置疑,如画的美景俘获了所有漫步其中的游客的心。

For lovers, Lijiang is a dream come true. The town’s romantic allure is woven into the gentle flow of the canals, the blooming flowers, the soft glow of lantern-lit evenings, and the whispers of ancient melodies that linger in the air. Stroll hand-in-hand through the winding streets, where every turn reveals a new vista of beauty.

对情侣来说,丽江是充满爱意的地方。潺潺流水、繁花似锦、夜色下灯影摇曳,萦绕在空气中的古老旋律,交织着这座城市的浪漫魅力。情侣携手漫步在蜿蜒的街道上,每一次转角,都能发现新的美景。

Lijiang is the historical homeland of the Naxi people, an ethnic minority whose culture is beautifully reflected in the town’s buildings. The Naxi people lived in Lijiang for more than one thousand years. Their houses typically include timber-framed structures with intricate carvings and flower-filled courtyards. The courtyards have sloped tiled roofs with upward-curving eaves reminiscent of Han Chinese design, but often adorned with local Naxi symbols like Dongba scripts and plum blossom. Carved wooden doors and lattice windows, showcases craftsmanship that passed down through generations.

丽江是纳西族的故乡。纳西族是中国的一个少数民族,其文化在丽江的建筑中得到了完美的体现。纳西族在丽江生活了超过一千年。他们的房屋通常为木结构建筑,雕刻精美,庭院内鲜花盛开。建筑体现为倾斜的瓦片屋顶,向上弯曲的屋檐,不由地令人想起汉族的建筑设计。不过这些建筑通常饰以比如东巴文字和梅花等纳西族的本土符号。而雕花木门和格子窗则展现了代代相传的工艺。

Unlike the rigid grid systems seen in many ancient Chinese cities, Lijiang’s street layout follows the natural topography of the land. Its streets are designed to flow with the natural slope of the terrain and the course of its canal network. Winding alleys, gentle inclines, and interwoven pathways are cobbled with smooth, dark stone.

与许多中国古代城市缺乏变化的网格系统不同,丽江的街道布局遵循自然的地势。街道的设计顺应着地形的自然坡度和运河网络的走向。蜿蜒的小巷、缓坡和交错的小路都以光滑的深色鹅卵石铺成。

The environment in this town attracted me a lot. It is often described as the “Venice of the East”, owing to its intricate network of crystal-clear canals and over 300 small stone bridges. Water from the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain flows into the town, guided by an ingenious water management system dating back to the Yuan Dynasty.

这座古镇的环境氛围深深吸引着我。错综复杂的水网,清澈见底的运河和300多座小石桥使它被誉为“东方威尼斯”。玉龙雪山的潺潺溪水流入小镇,其水源的管理源于元朝时期的精妙水利系统。

The famous Big Stone Bridge spans one of the main canals that meander through the Ancient Town called Dayan, gracefully connecting the bustling market streets and quiet residential alleys. Built from finely chiseled gray stone, the bridge features a gentle and elegant arch that rises just enough to allow water and small boats to pass beneath. Stone slabs of the bridge have been polished by time and reflect the town’s poetic beauty and deep-rooted history.

著名的大石桥横跨蜿蜒流经大研古镇的主水道,优雅地连接着熙熙攘攘的市街和静谧的民居小巷。桥身由精雕细琢的灰色石材砌成,优雅小巧的拱形恰好能让水流和小船从桥下穿行。桥面的石板历经岁月的风霜,向游客讲述着古镇的诗意和深厚的历史底蕴。

In summer, Lijiang Ancient Town bursts into a quiet, poetic splendor, with flowers blooming like brushstrokes across its cobblestone streets. Hanging flower baskets overflow from carved wooden balconies and tea house windows. Potted blooms line the narrow stone alleys, framing doorways and open courtyards with bursts of color. Green vines and creepers climb gracefully along tiled roofs and traditional wooden beams. The brillant summer flowers of this city left me a deep impression of a living scroll of color and scent.

夏日的丽江古城,静谧而诗意,繁花盛开,点缀鹅卵石铺就的街道。精雕的阳台和茶室窗外,悬挂的花篮里盛放着绽放的鲜花。色彩缤纷的盆栽花卉排列在狭窄的石巷两旁,点缀着门廊和庭院。绿油油的藤蔓和攀缘植物优雅地附着在瓦片屋顶和传统的木梁上。这座城市的绚烂夏花给我留下了深刻的印象,仿佛一幅色彩与芬芳交织的画卷。

The canals that run through Lijiang become floral mirrors. Willows dip their green tendrils into the water, and wildflowers peek through the stone edges. Floating petals drift along the surface, carried by the mountain-fed streams that wind through the town like silver threads.

丽江蜿蜒流淌的运河,仿若清澈的镜面。垂柳低吟,将柔绿的柳丝轻轻探入水中。野花在石缝间悄然探头,犹抱琵琶半遮面。山泉汇成的溪流,如银线般穿城而过,溪流中漂浮的花瓣随水无边曼舞。

The streets are narrow, winding, but it’s the color that captures my heart first. Strings of bright red lanterns sway gently overhead, casting warm light in the evenings and glowing softly against aged wooden walls. Shopfronts are adorned with vivid Naxi embroidery, batik fabrics, and handwoven scarves in deep blue, scarlet, and purple. The handmade paper umbrellas are more than beautiful objects—they are icons of romance and tradition. The hand-carved bamboo frame is lightweight. A young woman holding a paper umbrella is a traditional image of grace and refinement, common in Naxi and Han aesthetics.

街道狭窄蜿蜒,首先俘获我心的是那一抹色调。一串串鲜红的灯笼在头顶轻轻摇曳,在夜晚散发出温暖的光芒,在古老的木墙上泛着柔和的光芒。店面装饰着鲜艳的纳西刺绣、蜡染布,以及深蓝、猩红和紫色的编织围巾。手工制作的纸伞不仅仅是美丽的物品,更是浪漫和传统的代名词。这些手工雕刻的竹制伞架轻盈灵动。在纳西族和汉族的审美中撑着纸伞的年轻女子是优雅美女的传统象征。

Sifang Street (四方街) is a living square where history, culture, and daily life converge in a graceful, harmonious rhythm. It was an open plaza which served as the center of commerce, social life, and cultural exchange for centuries. Roads from all directions meet here, making it the natural gathering point of the town. The surrounding two-story timber buildings with tiled roofs and carved eaves are classic Naxi architecture.

四方街是一个充满活力的广场,历史文化和日常生活在此交汇,形成优美和谐的韵律。几个世纪以来,这里曾是一个开放的广场,是商业、社交和文化交流的中心。四面八方的道路在此交汇,使其成为小镇的聚集点。周围的两层瓦片屋顶和雕花屋檐的木制结构建筑是典型的纳西建筑风格。

Historically, Lijiang was a vital hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and the ancient city layout reflects its past as a trading center. Roads led toward gates and plazas that were once used for commerce transportations. The urban design ensured easy navigation and security while allowing for the smooth flow of goods and people. The Ancient Tea Horse Road was a vast network of trade routes that once linked the tea-growing regions of southwestern China with Tibet and eventually extended into India. Puer tea from Yunnan were traded out and strong Tibetan horses were traded to the Chinese for use in the military.

历史上,丽江是茶马古道上的重要枢纽,古城布局反映了它作为贸易中心的历史。条条道路通向曾经用于商业运输的城门和广场。城市设计确保了便捷的通行和安全,同时也促进了货物和人员的流通。茶马古道是一个庞大的贸易路线网络,连接着中国西南的茶区和西藏,并最终延伸到印度。来自云南的普洱茶被出口,强壮的西藏军用马则被进口到中国。

The big water wheel at the entrance of Lijiang Ancient Town is one of its most iconic landmarks—a symbol of tradition, harmony, and the town’s deep connection with water. It draws water from the flowing canals and uses the current to rotate continuously. Traditionally, water wheels were used in grinding grain or irrigation, and nowadays this big wheel in Lijiang is only symbolic. Visitors often take photos in front of the water wheel. It’s also a common backdrop for traditional Naxi dress photography and wedding shoots.

丽江古城入口处的大水车是最具标志性的地标,象征着传统以及这座城市与水的深厚渊源。它从流动的运河中汲水,并利用水流持续旋转。传统的水车用于磨坊或灌溉,如今,丽江的这辆大水车只是具有象征意义。游客们通常在水车前拍照。它也是游客身着纳西族传统服饰摄影和婚纱拍摄的常见背景。

As I walked from the big water wheel, I entered the broad main street. It is a stone-paved roads, polished smooth over centuries by footsteps and time. The street is lined with a rich mix of traditional and contemporary experiences. There are tea houses with open balconies and live Naxi or modern music drifting into the air. Also everywhere there are shops selling handmade crafts, from silver jewelry and Dongba scrolls to embroidered scarves.

我从大水车旁走进了宽阔的主街。这是一条石板路,几个世纪以来,它已被人们的脚步和岁月磨得光滑平整。街道两旁,传统与现代交织在一起。这里有带开放式阳台的茶馆,现场演奏的纳西或现代音乐在空中悠然飘荡。此外,随处可见出售手工艺品的商店,从银饰、东巴卷轴到刺绣围巾,应有尽有。

Unlike many ancient Chinese towns, Lijiang Ancient Town has no city wall. It is located in a relatively remote, mountainous region, protected by natural barriers like the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and surrounding terrain. This reduced the need for defensive walls. The Naxi people, the main ethnic group of Lijiang, believe in openness, flow, and harmony with nature. This short section of wall called Guan Men Kou marked the entrance to the administrative and residential district of local government officials during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

与许多中国古城不同,丽江古城是没有城墙的。它地处相对偏远的山区,受到玉龙雪山等天然屏障和周围地形的保护。这自然减少了修建防御性城墙的必要性。而且丽江当地的主体民族纳西族崇尚开放自由,并与自然和谐相处。这段短墙被称为官门口,是明清两代地方政府官员行政和居住区的入口。

It was connected to the Mu Residence (木府)—home of the Mu family, hereditary Naxi chieftains who ruled the region for centuries. The Mu Residence is often called the “Forbidden City of Lijiang” — a grand, elegant architectural complex that was once the political and cultural center of Lijiang Ancient Town. The whole ancient city of Lijiang is ticket free, but visitors need to pay 20 RMB yuans to visit this building.

它与木府相连,木府是统治该地区数百年的纳西族世袭首领木氏家族的居所。木府常被称为“丽江紫禁城”,是一座宏伟典雅的建筑群,曾是丽江古城的政治和文化中心。丽江古城全城免门票,但参观木府需支付20元人民币。

The Mu clan governed Lijiang for over 470 years, from the Yuan dynasty (13th century) through the Ming and Qing dynasties. As imperial-appointed Tusi (local rulers), they enjoyed considerable autonomy while serving as intermediaries between the central government and local ethnic groups. This is the majestic central ceremonial hall, where the Mu rulers met guests and conducted administrative duties.

木氏家族从元朝到明清两代统治丽江超过470年。作为皇帝任命的土司,他们享有相当大的自治权,同时充当着中央政府与当地民族之间的桥梁。这里是庄严的中央议事厅,木氏统治者在此接见宾客并行使行政职权。

There is a tranquil garden with stone paths, bamboo groves, and koi ponds—perfectly illustrating harmony between architecture and nature. The layout and detail express Confucian order, Daoist balance, and Dongba spiritual heritage.

庭院内静谧清幽,石径蜿蜒,竹林环绕,锦鲤池点缀,完美诠释了建筑与自然的和谐统一。庭院布局和细节处处体现着儒家的秩序、道家的平衡,以及东巴的精神传承。

From the higher vantage points of Mu residence, I saw a rippling expanse of traditional, gray-tiled rooftops stretching in every direction. These rooftops are curved and upturned at the edges, reflecting classic Chinese architectural style. They are arranged tightly together, each with its own courtyard-centered home, forming a labyrinthine patchwork.

从木家宅邸的较高位置向远望去,我看到一片片传统的灰​​瓦屋顶,层层叠叠,向四面八方延伸。这些屋顶呈弧形,边缘上翘,体现了中国古典建筑风格。它们紧密相连,每栋房子都以庭院为中心,构成了一座错落有致的迷宫。

The panoramic view of the town in the sunny afternoon is overwhelming. Under the sunlight, golden light is cast across the rooftops, revealing layers of texture and age. The curved tiles, weathered by centuries of wind and rain, catch the light at different angles, creating a mosaic of shadows. The gray roof tiles reflect not just the light of the sun, but the light of a thousand yesterdays. In Lijiang, the clouds are rarely static. They move like dancers across the sky. Sometimes thunderous storm clouds rolling in from the mountains, suddenly turned the blue sky into a canvas of deep gray.

阳光明媚的午后,小镇的全景令人叹为观止。阳光下,金色的光芒洒落在屋顶上,展现出层层叠叠的纹理和岁月的痕迹。历经百年风雨的弧形瓦片,以不同的角度捕捉着天空光线,形成一幅光影交织的马赛克画。灰色的瓦片反射的不仅仅是阳光,更是无数个昔日的光辉。在丽江,云朵很少静止不动,它们像舞者一样在天空中摇曳流动。有时,雷鸣般的乌云从山间滚滚而来,将蔚蓝的天空瞬间染成一片深灰色。

Snow Mountain Academy is a place for cultural exhibitions of preservation and promotion of Dongba culture. It has traditional Naxi and Han Chinese architecture with wooden pavilions with gracefully curved roofs and carved eaves and latticed windows, stone courtyards, and koi ponds. There are inscriptions of Dongba symbols and poetic couplets on the entrance.

雪山书院是保护和弘扬东巴文化的文化展览场所。书院拥有纳西族和汉族传统建筑风格,包括木结构凉亭、优美的弧形屋顶、雕花屋檐和格子窗、石砌庭院和锦鲤池。入口处刻有东巴文字和对联。

Small pavilions scattered throughout Lijiang Ancient Town. They are typical Chinese architecture elements. They have intricate wooden latticework, carved with floral patterns like phoenixes and red columns and painted beams, with calligraphy quoting poetry. Many are open on all sides, allowing gentle breezes to pass through and refreshing the visitors.

丽江古城里散落着许多小亭阁,它们是典型的中式建筑元素。亭阁拥有精致的木格,雕刻着凤凰等花卉图案,红色的柱子和彩绘的横梁上还刻有诗句和书法。亭阁四面敞开,微风轻拂,令人心旷神怡。

In Lijiang, I always found this traditional water system called The Three-Eyed Well. It consists of three connected stone basins or wells that are arranged in a tiered system. Spring water flows from the uppermost well to the lowest. Top basin contains drinking water and is reserved strictly for drinking and cooking, ensuring the cleanest, freshest water being protected. Middle basin is used for washing vegetables and rice. The water comes directly from the top and flows out again, it remains relatively clean. The bottom level was used for washing clothes or cleaning items, where the water, now used multiple times, would finally exit the system.

在丽江,我总能发现一种名为“三眼井”的传统水利系统。它由三个相连的石盆或井组成,呈阶梯状排列。泉水从最上层的井流到最底层。最上层的石盆盛有饮用水,仅供饮用和烹饪,以确保水源保持最洁净、最新鲜的状态。中间的石盆用于洗菜和洗米。水直接从顶层流出,进入中层后保持相对洁净。底层用于洗衣服或清洁物品,水经过多次使用后,最终会从石盆底部流出整个系统。

Shuhe Old Town is one of the three old towns in Lijiang worthy of visit. It was one of the earliest Naxi settlements in the Lijiang area, dating back more than 1,000 years. It was once a vital stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, that linked Yunnan with Tibet. This town has lush greenery of cypress and camphor trees.

束河古镇是丽江值得一游的三座古镇之一。它是丽江地区最早的纳西族聚居地,距今已有一千多年历史。它曾是连接云南和西藏的茶马古道上的重要驿站。古镇上柏树和樟树繁茂茂盛,绿树成荫。

Shuhe retains its original village charm, with stone-paved lanes that wind through traditional Naxi courtyard homes. There are clear canals running through small stone bridges, fed by mountain spring water. In one unnoticed corner, I found some sculpted animal heads—of oxen, horses, dragons, and tigers. The twelve Chinese zodiac animal heads are sculpted with fine attention to detail. They represent the Chinese cultural heritage.

束河保留着原始的村落韵味,石板小巷蜿蜒穿过传统的纳西式庭院。清澈由山泉滋润的溪水流经小石桥。在一个不起眼的角落里,我看到了一些牛、马、龙和虎的兽首雕塑。这些十二生肖兽首雕塑细节精致,代表着中华文化遗产。

Water is the soul of Shuhe. The town is laced with fresh mountain springs and gentle canals, which flow from the nearby mountains and provide life to the land and people. The Qinglong River and a network of small canals run through the town, and water accumulated in the Nine Tripod Dragon Pool in this photo. The water is remarkably clear, with a deep jade-green hue, reflecting the sky and surrounding trees like a perfect mirror.

水是束河的灵魂。小镇遍布清澈的山泉和蜿蜒的运河,它们从附近的群山中流淌而出,为这片土地和人民提供生机。青龙河和纵横交错的小运河贯穿全镇,照片中的九鼎龙潭汇聚了丰富的水量。潭水清澈见底,呈现出深邃的碧绿,如同一面完美的镜子,映照着天空和周围的树木。

I enjoyed the feeling of walking along the cobbled street. The surface was smooth from centuries of footsteps, yet still retained the natural texture and rhythm of each stone. On sunny days, the cobblestones glisten softly. They were telling the long story of this city. These streets have guided caravans of horses, carried pilgrims and poets, and today, lead visitors like me.

我享受着沿着鹅卵石街道漫步的感觉。这些路面因数百年的磨损而变得光滑,却依然保留着每块石头的自然纹理和韵律。阳光明媚的日子里,鹅卵石泛着柔和的光泽。它们诉说着这座城市悠久的历史。这些街道曾引领着马队,承载着朝圣者和吟游诗人的希望,如今引领着像我这样的游客一路向前。

Similar to the towns (Eguisheim) I have visited in France, the timber walls of old houses are adorned with an enchanting array of climbing plants and blooming flowers. Creeper plants and grapevines twist gracefully up stone and brick walls. The combination of floral color, carved window frames, and creeping green creates a storybook atmosphere.

与我去过的法国小镇埃吉桑相似,老房子的木墙上装饰着各种迷人的攀缘植物和盛开的鲜花。攀缘植物和葡萄藤优雅地盘绕在石砖墙上。色彩缤纷的花卉、雕花窗框和蔓生植物的组合,营造出一种童话般的氛围。

The Baisha ancient town was a peaceful town in the north of Li Jiang. The town’s buildings are made of mud bricks, timber, and stone, featuring whitewashed walls, grey rooftiles, and Naxi-style wooden carvings. Unlike more commercial towns, Baisha retains an authentic, almost rustic character—every weathered beam and faded wall tells a story. It is less touristy, making it ideal for travelers seeking a more immersive experience.

白沙是丽江北部一个安静的小镇。古镇的建筑由泥砖、木材和石材构成,白墙黛瓦,还有纳西风格的木雕。与商业气息浓厚的其他城镇不同,白沙古镇保留着一种近乎质朴的原始风貌——每一根饱经风霜的梁柱和每一面褪色的墙壁都诉说着一个个故事。这里游客较少,非常适合寻求沉浸式体验的游客。

Located at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, this town is a place where time lingers gently and tradition breathes in every small lane. I felt unhurried and myself seemed to be wrapped in the cool breath of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The morning is tranquil, with soft light spilling across stone paths, roosters calling in the distance. Elderly Naxi women in traditional blue garments sit by doorways, chatting quietly beneath overhanging eaves.

这座小镇就坐落在玉龙雪山脚下,时光静静地流淌,每条小巷都弥漫着传统的气息。我感觉自己仿佛置身于玉龙雪山清凉的气息之中,悠闲自在。清晨宁静祥和,柔和的阳光洒落在石板路上,远处传来公鸡的鸣叫。身着传统蓝色服饰的纳西族老妇人坐在门边,在屋檐下轻声交谈。

I noticed some traditional houses of courtyard in this town. During the day, warm light and shadow dance across the walls, and in the evening, red lanterns cast a soft glow over the polished stones. The doorway features stone or brick inlays at the base, with engraved patterns of waves, clouds, and animals to ward off bad luck. Flower pots and stone lions are set up along the doorway. The paintings on wooden doors flanking the entrance represents the god of doorways and are designed to welcome good fortune and ward off evil. If traveller has free time, it is a good choice to stay in this town for several days experiencing the Naxi life here.

我在这座小镇里看到了一些传统的院落民居。白天,温暖的阳光投撒在墙上;夜晚,红灯笼在光滑的石柱上投下柔和的光芒。门框底部嵌有石块或砖块,上面雕刻着海浪、云朵和动物的图案,以驱除厄运。门边摆放着花盆和石狮。入口两侧的木门上画着门神,象征着招财辟邪。如果游客时间充裕,在这个小镇住上几天,体验一下纳西族的生活,亦是个不错的选择。

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lijiang Ancient Town consists of four key parts, three ancient towns Dayan, Baisha, and Shuhe, and the ancient water system called Black Dragon Pool. The park of Black Dragon Pool was the last place I visited in Lijiang. The pool is fed by springs from the foot of Elephant Hill and serves as the headwaters of Lijiang’s ancient canal system, which winds through Dayan Old Town. The elegant white marble bridge arcs across the water drew my attention. Towering in the horizontal of sky, the snow-covered ridges gleamed silver under the sun.

丽江古城被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产,由四个主要部分组成:大研、白沙和束河三个古镇,以及名为黑龙潭的古老水系。黑龙潭公园是我在丽江的最后一站。黑龙潭的水源来自象山脚下的泉水,是丽江古运河的源头,蜿蜒流经大研古镇。优雅的白色大理石桥横跨水面,吸引了我的目光。白雪皑皑的山脊高耸入云,在阳光下闪着银光。

Surrounded by willows, cypress trees, and seasonal blooms, the park is a haven for travelers seeking tranquility. The greenery creates picturesque scenes against the backdrop of traditional architecture. The mirror-like surface reflects the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, creating a postcard scene.

公园四周柳树、柏树环绕,四季鲜花盛开,是寻求宁静的游客的世外桃源。绿树成荫,在传统古建筑的映衬下,构成了如画的风景。镜面般的湖面倒映着雄伟的玉龙雪山,宛如明信片上的风景。

There is a museum here displaying the Naxi script of Dongba characters. They are pictographs and ideographs—symbols that visually represent ideas, objects, and actions. Each symbol can represent a word, a sound, or a meaning. Although no one use these characters now, they are cultural heritage of this land, and were used to pass down religious stories and cosmology.

这里有一座博物馆,展示纳西文字——东巴文。它们是象形和表意文字,用符号直观地表达思想、物体和行为。每个符号可以代表一个词、一个声音或一个含义。虽然如今已无人使用这些文字,但它们是这片土地的文化遗产,曾被用来传承纳西人的宗教故事和宇宙观。

I have stayed in Lijiang for three days. As I took my final steps of the ancient town, the echoes of rushing water and soft chimes from wind bells lingered in my heart like the fading notes of an old melody. In these days, I lost time among the painted doorways, the fragrance of fresh flowers and the cobbled ancient streets. As I left, I carried the lingering memories with me like a lantern glowing softly long after the sun has set.

我在丽江总计待了三天。当我踏上古城的最后一段旅程时,潺潺的流水声和轻柔的风铃声如同一首古老旋律萦绕在我的心头。这些日子里,我迷失在彩绘门楼、鲜花的芬芳和古老的鹅卵石街道之间久久不能自拔。离开时这些挥之不去的回忆就如同一盏在日落后依然柔和发光的灯火一般依然熠熠生辉。

The Geological Wonders of the Stone Forest

喀斯特地址奇迹石林

The Stone Forest, located in Yunnan Province, is a breathtaking natural wonder renowned for its towering limestone formations that resemble a vast forest made of stone. Formed over 270 million years ago through erosion and geological activity, this UNESCO World Heritage site is rich in history and culture. The local Sani people, a branch of the Yi ethnic group, add to the forest’s allure with interesting folklore. Exploring labyrinth-like pathways and dramatic rock pillars was really an extraordinary experience for every traveler.

云南省的石林是一个令人惊叹的自然奇观,以其高耸的石灰石地层而闻名。这些大量的石灰岩类似于一片巨大的石制森林。这处世界自然遗产因水土侵蚀和地质活动形成于2.7亿多年前,拥有丰富的历史和文化价值。当地的撒尼人是彝族的一个分支,他们有趣的民间传说为这片区域增添了别样的魅力。探索迷宫般的小径和穿行于独特的石柱间对每位旅行者来说都是一次非凡的体验。

The Stone Forest was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007 because of its outstanding geological significance and unique karst landscape. It’s one of the world’s best examples of karst formations with limestone pillars shaped by millions of years of erosion and tectonic activity. The site is part of the South China karst, a vast region recognized for its exceptional biodiversity, intricate cave systems, underground rivers, and limestone features.

石林因其突出的地质和独特的喀斯特地貌于2007年被列为联合国教科文组织列入世界自然遗产。它是世界上绝佳的喀斯特地貌,其石灰岩柱经过数百万年的侵蚀和地质运动而形成。石林也是华南喀斯特地貌的一部分,这一广阔地区以其非凡的生物多样性、错综复杂的洞穴系统、地下河流和钟乳石灰岩特征而闻名。

I visited this famous scenic point on May 19th, 2024, during my summer trip in Yun Nan. Upon arrival of the entrance, I was attracted by the numerous stones of different forms. Despite its rugged, rocky landscape, the Stone Forest is home to a rich variety of plant life that thrives in the crevices and soil within the limestone formations. Begonias, bamboos, and Yunnan Pine can be seen in every corner of this park.

2024 年 5 月 19 日,我在云南的夏季旅行中参观了这个著名的景点。刚抵达入口,我便被各种形状的石头所吸引。尽管地势崎岖,岩石密布,但石林里也有丰富多样的植物,这些植物在石灰岩地层的缝隙和土壤中茁壮成长。在这个公园内的每个角落都可以看到秋海棠、竹子和云南松。

All visitors need to cross one bridge on the Shilin Karst Lake. It is a tranquil and elegant lake which still waters create a mesmerizing mirror effect, reflecting the limestone pillars that surround it. The lake is fringed with unique rock formations, some of which seem to rise directly out of the water like natural sculptures. There are some viewpoints allowing visitors to wander along the shore, offering peaceful spots to rest.

所有游客都需要穿过石林湖上的一座桥抵达景区。这是一个安静而优雅的湖泊,平静的水面呈现出迷人的镜面效果,倒映着周围的石灰岩柱。湖边两岸布满了独特的岩层,它们从水面中升起,如同浑然天成的雕塑一样。湖畔有些观景点可供游客沿着湖岸漫步,提供安静的休息地点供游客享受慢生活。

During the Permian Period, the area that is now the Stone Forest was covered by a shallow tropical sea.
Over millions of years, marine organisms like corals, shellfish, and algae thrived in this environment, leaving behind thick layers of limestone as they died and accumulated on the seabed. Due to tectonic movements, the seabed gradually rose above sea level, exposing the limestone deposits to air.

在二叠纪时期,现在的石林地区被浅浅的热带海洋覆盖。数百万年来,珊瑚、贝类和藻类等海洋生物在这种环境中繁衍生息,它们死亡后堆积在海底,留下厚厚的石灰岩层。由于地壳运动,海床逐渐上升到海平面以上,石灰岩沉积物暴露在空气中。

Karst landscapes are formed through a process of erosion, where soluble rocks, like limestone are gradually dissolved by water over long periods of time. The presence of soluble limestone is made primarily of calcium carbonate (CaCO3). Rainwater is slightly acidic due to dissolved carbon dioxide and forms carbonic acid (H2CO3), which chemically erode the rock. Over time, the acidity of rainwater or groundwater slowly reacts with the calcium carbonate, creating small cracks in the rock. Over long periods of time, the Karst landscape can evolve into a complex system of geological features, including limestone plateaus, sharp peaks, isolated columns, and underground caverns.

喀斯特地貌是通过可溶性岩石(如石灰岩)在很长一段时间内逐渐被水溶解而侵蚀的漫长过程形成的。可溶性石灰岩的主要成分是碳酸钙 (CaCO3)。由于雨水溶解了二氧化碳产生碳酸 (H2CO3)导致雨水呈弱酸性,从而对岩石进行化学侵蚀。随着时间的推移,雨水或地下水中的酸会慢慢和碳酸钙反应,在岩石上形成小裂缝。经过漫长的时间,喀斯特地貌可以演变成一个包括石灰岩高原、尖峰、封闭的立柱群和地下洞穴等复杂的地质特征系统。

Many huge stones are composed of various layers of limestone, which have eroded over millions of years. This erosion has created unique shapes and textures, from sharp edges to smoother, rounded forms. The intricate patterns on the stone surfaces resemble layers of barky and natural folds, and some wrinkles. At times, I felt like an explorer uncovering hidden treasures, each new path revealing a different formation that sparked my imagination—some stones looked like a giant’s face, while others resembled delicate spires rising toward the sky.

许多巨型石头由多层石灰岩组成,经过数百万年的侵蚀形成了独特的形状和从锋利的边缘到更光滑的圆形纹理。石头表面的复杂图案类似于树皮般的皱纹和自然褶皱。我甚至感觉自己就像一个探索宝藏的探险家,石林的每条新路径都导向不同构造的石头,激发出我的想象力。这里有些石头看起来像巨人的脸,而另一些则像尖顶直指苍穹。

Between the stone columns, there are small gaps, crevices, and caves, some of which visitors can explore. These openings form narrow passageways and hidden corners, creating a sense of mystery and discovery. Visitors can rest on the stone stools for a while when they felt tired. Over a long time, moss, lichen, and other small plants have grown on the stones, adding a touch of green to the monotonous grey and brown landscape.

石柱之间,有裂缝、洞穴,可供游客探索。这些开口形成狭窄的通道和隐蔽的角落,营造出一种神秘的感觉,勾起游客的探索欲。游客走累了,也可以在石凳上休息一会儿。随着时间的流逝,光秃秃的石头上长出了苔藓、地衣和其他小植物,为整体单调的灰褐色的景观增添了一抹绿。

The Major Stone Forest is the main and most famous scenic point, attracting numerous visitors. It is a labyrinth of jagged rock formations, shaped over millions of years by the forces of wind and water. The limestone pillars, some towering as high as 30 meters, stretch in all directions, creating a dense, maze-like environment where it’s easy to lose yourself in the twists and turns of the landscape.

大石林是这里最主要著名的景点,吸引了众多游客。这里是一座由锯齿状岩层组成的迷宫,经过数百万年的风力和水力作用而形成。石灰岩柱向四面八方延伸,有些高达30米,形成了一个密集的迷宫般的环境,游客很容易迷失在这曲折回绕的景观中。

The limestone spires are thin and elongated, resembling tall spikes. These formations reach upward, as though they are trying to touch the sky. Walking through these sections feels like wandering through a vast, jagged city of stone, with towering buildings rising up from the ground on all sides. The stone pathways can be uneven and rocky, so it’s important to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes for walking.

石灰岩尖顶又细又长,形似高耸的尖刺。这些岩层向上延伸,仿佛要触及天空。穿过这些区域,感觉就像漫步在一座巨大而崎岖的石头城中,四周都是在地面上平地而起的高耸建筑。这些石路不平坦且多石,因此穿着结实舒适的鞋子特别重要。

Narrow paths wind through the stone pillars, leading visitors on a journey of discovery. These winding routes allow me to get up close to the stones and appreciate their unique shapes and textures closely. Stone steps leading up to the top of stones, are worn smooth by countless visitors. I liked to think deeply during my trip. Walking through these paths in the labyrinth made me think the meaning of life. Our life is like a labyrinth and we are always looking for the exit which path is the journey of our life.

狭窄的小路蜿蜒穿过石柱,引领游客踏上探索之旅。这些蜿蜒的小路让我可以近距离接触这些巨石,近距离欣赏它们独特的形状和纹理。通往石柱顶部的石阶早已被无数游客磨得光滑。我喜欢在旅途中深入思考。走在迷宫般的小路上,不由地令我思考起人生的意义。其实我们的生活就像一座迷宫,我们总是在寻找出口,而寻找出口这条路就是我们人生的旅程。

Sword Peak Pool is a beautiful, tranquil spot known for its stunning natural scenery and crystal-clear waters. The name refers to the shape of the surrounding peaks that resemble the sharp edge of a sword. It reflects the surrounding stone peaks, creating a picturesque view. It is a result of millions of years of natural erosion and geological processes.

剑峰池是一个美丽而宁静的地方,以其令人惊叹的自然风光和清澈的池水而闻名。剑峰潭因周围山峰的形状类似锋利的出鞘剑锋而得名。它倒映着周围的石峰,形成了如画的风景。这里也是数百万年的自然侵蚀和地质运动的结果。

The Stone Forest is interspersed with various smaller pools and streams that dot the landscape, each with its own charm. Some of these are tucked into crevices between rocks, while others sit in open clearings. I really marveled at these stone erected in the water, which silently create an almost fortress-like setting, giving the pond a hidden and mystical feel. It looks like an isolated environment far away from the mundane world.

石林中散布着各种较小的水塘和溪流,点缀着整个景观,每个都有自己的魅力。其中一些溪流隐藏在岩石之间的缝隙中,而另一些水塘则坐落在开阔地上。这些屹立在水中的石头令人浮想联翩,它们默默的创造出一种如同堡垒一样的环境,蕴涵一丝若隐若现的神秘感。看起来就像一个远离世俗世界的独立环境。

The whole park of stone forest is super large, and most visitors only have time to visit the Major and Minor Stone Forest within one day. The Minor Stone Forest consists of a smaller yet equally intricate collection of karst limestone formations. Unlike the towering 30-meter pillars of the Major Stone Forest, the rock formations here are relatively shorter and more clustered together.

整个石林公园非常大,大多数游客一天只能游览完大石林和小石林两个景区。小石林由较小但同样复杂的喀斯特石灰岩构成。与大石林高达30米的石柱不同,这里的岩层相对较矮小且更密集。

Unlike the more crowded Major Stone Forest, this area is quieter and less touristy, making it an ideal spot for visitors who prefer a more serene experience. The stones here are weathered into unusual shapes, resembling animals and mythical creatures, sparking the imagination of visitors. Every jagged rock peak with smooth, eroded surfaces tells a story of millions of years of natural sculpting. The scenes in this area have more greeneries and look more spacious and poetic.

与人潮涌动的大石林不同,这一带比较安静,人烟稀少,是喜欢静谧体验的游客的理想之地。这里的石头被风化成奇形怪状,形似动物和神话中的生物,充分发挥游人的想象力。每一块锯齿状的岩石山峰,表面光滑,记述着数百万年大自然的鬼斧神工。这一带的景色更加绿意盎然,看起来宽广辽阔、富有诗情画意。

The Minor Stone Forest is deeply connected to the Yi ethnic group, particularly the Sani people. This area is associated with local myths and legends, and some rocks are believed to be sacred, linked to ancient spirits and ancestors. Perhaps the most iconic rock is this stone which resembles a young woman in traditional Yi dress. According to local legend, it represents Ashima, a young and beautiful girl who fell in love with a man named Ahei, but their love was forbidden by Ashima’s family, who had arranged for her to marry a wealthier suitor. Desperate to be together, Ashima and Ahei fled and looked for their love. In the legend, Ashima was tragically turned into stone by the gods as a symbol of her devotion and sacrifice. Nowadays, the stone is a symbol of eternal love and unwavering faith which is rare in our society with fast rhythm.

小石林与彝族的撒尼人有着深厚的渊源。该地区与当地的神话传说息息相关,有些岩石被认为是神圣的,并与古老的神灵和祖先有关。也许最具代表性的岩石就是图中这块石头,它形似一位身着传统彝族服饰的年轻女子。根据当地传说,它象征着年轻貌美的女孩阿诗玛。她爱上了一个名叫阿海的男人,但他们的爱情遭到了阿诗玛家人的反对,他们安排她嫁给一个更富有的追求者。阿诗玛渴望和阿海在一起,于是两人私奔追寻他们的爱情。在传说中,阿诗玛被众神悲惨地变成了石头,作为她忠诚和对爱情牺牲的象征。如今,这块石头象征着永恒的爱情和坚定不移的信念,这种纯洁的爱情在我们这个快节奏的社会中已然不复存在。

The trip in the stone forest needs half days’ time. As the sun set and ligntened the towering limestone spires of the Stone Forest, it’s hard not to feel a sense of awe and wonder. It was indeed a wonderful place where the natural world and ancient myths came together. When I was on the way of leaving the park, I took with me more than just memories of the stunning landscape — also carried the echoes of legendary sad love stories touching my heart.

石林之旅共需要大半天时间。当太阳落山余晖照耀在石林高耸的石灰岩尖顶之际,我很难不感到敬畏和惊叹。这里确实是自然世界和古老神话交汇的奇妙之地。当我依依惜别时,随我心而去的不仅仅是对壮丽景观的回忆还有触动心弦的悲伤爱情故事的回响。

Wutai Mountain: A Sanctuary of Buddhist Tranquility

与世无争的佛家圣地五台山

Wutai Mountain, located in central part of Shanxi Province, is one of the most revered Buddhist sites in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known as the “Five Terrace Mountain” due to its unique topography of five flat peaks, it has been a center of Buddhist worship and pilgrimage for over a thousand years. The mountain is dedicated to Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, and is home to a series of ancient temples surrounded by stunning natural beauty.

五台山位于山西省中部,是世界上最受敬仰的佛教圣地之一,也被评为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产。它因其独特的五座类似平台的山峰地貌而被称为“五台山”,一千多年来一直是佛教徒朝圣的目的地。这座名山供奉着象征智慧的文殊菩萨,山上有许多古老的寺庙,周围环绕着令人神往的自然美景。

Wutai Mountain is the transition stop in my voyage of Shanxi. It is not far away from Tai Yuan. I arrived at the entrance of this mountain at the noon of July 3rd,2024. The duration of this trip of pilgrim by bus is over two hours. It was a cloudy day, and from far view, the greenery of this mountain is shrouded by the white thick clouds which dim the sunlight.

五台山是本人此次山西之行的中转站,距离太原并不远。我于2024年7月3日中午到达这座山的入口。这趟朝圣之旅从太原乘坐巴士需要的时间大致刚超过两个小时。初抵五台山的时分阴云密布,远远眺望,山峰上郁郁葱葱的绿色植物被白色的厚厚云层笼罩,完全遮蔽了阳光。

I stayed for two days at the scenic spot center, Tai Huai Town from where the mountains stretch endlessly along the only road connecting outside. Their vastness is awe-inspiring, a tranquil realm where time seems suspended. The clouds drift and swirl as though the mountains are whispering secrets to the sky. The scene evokes a sense of mystery, where the boundless expanse of nature feels both humbling and infinite.

我在风景区中心台怀镇待了两天,这里的山势绵延不绝,只有一条与外界相连的道路。大山的浩瀚令人叹为观止,这里如此寂静,时间似乎停止了流动。云彩悬浮飘动,群山仿佛在向天空低声寄语。这一切不由地令我感到了一丝神秘感,在广阔无垠的大自然面前任何人都显得如此渺小。

Nanshan Temple

There are numerous temples in the scenic area of Wutai Mountain since it is too famous of Buddhism. At the first day, the weather in the mountain was bad, and I only visited some temples near the places I lived. The Nanshan Temple was located on the southern slopes of Wutai Mountain. It is one of the mountain’s most magnificent and historically rich temples. Originally constructed during the Yuan Dynasty, the temple was renowned for its unique architectural layout, which ascends in three tiers, symbolizing the Buddhist concept of spiritual elevation.

五台山因佛教名胜的盛名,景区内寺庙林立。第一天山上的天气极差,我只参观了住处附近的一些寺庙。南山寺位于五台山南坡可谓是最宏伟、历史最为丰富的寺庙之一。该寺始建于元代,以其独特的建筑布局而闻名,寺庙分三层以阶梯式上升,象征着佛教精神世界的升华。

The White Tower in the Nanshan Temple is a striking and iconic structure that embodies the essence of Tibetan Buddhist architecture. Rising majestically within the temple complex, the tower is shaped like an inverted lotus, symbolizing purity and enlightenment in Buddhist tradition. Its smooth, white exterior contrasts beautifully with the surroundings, creating a serene and sacred ambiance. This kind of tower, known as a stupa, serves as a reliquary and is said to house sacred Buddhist relics. It is topped with decorative elements such as prayer flags or bronze finials.

南山寺白塔是一座引人注目的标志性建筑,体现了藏传佛教建筑的精髓。该塔雄伟地矗立在寺庙建筑群内,形状像一朵倒立的莲花,象征着佛教的纯洁和开悟。其光滑的白色外观与周围环境形成鲜明对比,营造出宁静而神圣的氛围。这种佛塔据说存放着舍利子等佛教圣物。它的顶部有祈祷旗帜或青铜尖顶等装饰元素。

The halls within the temple showcase classic Chinese architectural features, such as curved eaves, painted beams, and intricate wood carvings. Guarding the entrances to the temple are pairs of stone lions, symbols of protection and power in Chinese culture. Carved with meticulous detail, these lions represent balance and symmetry. At the heart of the temple courtyard stands a large incense burner, an essential feature of Buddhist temples. Made of bronze, the burner is adorned with the name of the temple, Buddhist symbols, and auspicious motifs. Pilgrims and visitors light incense sticks here, offering prayers and seeking blessings as fragrant smoke wafts upward.

寺庙内的殿堂展现了如弧形飞檐、画梁和精美的木雕等中国古典建筑的特色。寺庙入口处有一对石狮,在中国文化中象征着庇护。这些石狮子雕刻细节丰富代表着中国传统对称平衡的观念。寺庙庭院的中心矗立着在普通佛教寺庙内都能见到的大型香炉。青铜制成的香炉饰有寺庙名称、佛教符号和吉祥图案。香客和游人在炊烟袅袅的香炉前焚香祈福。

The grey-colored old houses in the temple stand as quiet in the , weathered witnesses to centuries of history and devotion. These buildings, with their muted, stone-gray façades, blend seamlessly into the rocky terrain and lush pine forests surrounding. The old stone and brick walls, softened by time carry a serene, almost ethereal quality. The grey hues of the houses, worn by the winds and seasons, create a feeling of peaceful solitude, perfectly suited to the sacred atmosphere of the mountain. The steep, tiled roofs with their curves and edges softened by years of exposure to the mountain’s mist and rain. The tiles, some slightly chipped or moss-covered, tell a story of time’s quiet passage.

寺庙里灰蒙蒙的老房子在细雨中静静地屹立在山边,它们饱经风霜见证了几个世纪的历史和信仰。这些建筑由柔和的石灰色外墙建成,与周围的岩石地形和茂密的松树林完美地融为一体。古旧的石砖墙随着时间的流逝而磨平了棱角,呈现出一种与世无争空灵的品质。抑郁的灰色色调经过风雨的洗涤显出依稀的孤独感,却与佛教超脱世俗的氛围完美契合。陡峭的瓦片屋顶由于长年暴露在山上的雾气和雨水中,其曲线和边缘也磨损严重。这些略有残缺的砖瓦布满青苔,静静地诉说着往事。

In front of these old simple houses, one monk rested quietly on wooden benches. His simple robes blend with the natural color palette of the temple. His faces are calm and contemplative. The monks in this temple are not in a rush; they move slowly, embracing the tranquility of their surroundings. The gentle rustling of the wind through the pine trees and the occasional chant or bell sound from the temple add to the mystery of the scene. Every element, whether man-made or natural, exists in perfect balance and harmony.

古朴的老房子前,一位僧人静静地端坐在木凳上。简单的僧袍与寺庙的色调融为一体。僧人的表情平静而略带思绪。这座寺庙里的僧人不急不躁节奏舒缓,享受这周围的宁静。微风吹过松树的轻柔沙沙声,以及寺庙里偶尔传来的诵经声或钟鸣声是如此的神秘令人浮想联翩。这里的一切元素,一切景物无论是人工的还是自然的,都如此浑然天成。

The first day in the mountain was rainy and I did not go to a lot of places due to the bad weather. Fortunately, the second day was sunny. I spent most of the time in traveling the temples in this mountain. This is a good point to take the photo including temples of different layers. The temples of Wutai Mountain are renowned for their unique layout, arranged in layers. The mountain’s sacred sites are distributed across its five main peaks—East, West, South, North, and Central. The temples like Shuxiang Temple and Tayuan Temple serve as main sites to the sacred journey. They are usually accessible at lower level. The higher layer of Wutai Mountain hosts some of the most significant temples, like Pusading Temple in the background of this photo. It is one of the highest-ranking monasteries on the mountain. These temples are situated along winding paths that ascend higher into the mountain, offering panoramic views of the landscape.

进山的第一天下雨,很多地方遗憾没去。幸运的是老天有眼,第二天天气晴朗。这一天大部分时间都在逛这座山上的几座寺庙。这里是拍摄五台山不同层次寺庙的照片的好地方。五台山寺庙以其布局独特、层层排列而闻名。这座山的圣地分布在东、西、南、北、中五座主峰上。像殊像寺塔院寺这样的寺庙是拜佛的主要目的地。它们交通便利,位于较低的山层。五台山的较高层还有一些最重要的寺庙,例如这张照片背景中的菩萨顶寺,它是山上等级最高的寺庙。这些寺庙坐落在通向高处的蜿蜒的小路上,在那里可以欣赏到五台山全景。

Shuxiang Temple

Shuxiang Temple is one of the most famous and significant temples in the area, renowned for its rich history and extraordinary cultural and spiritual importance. Its name, “Shuxiang,” translates to “Exquisite Image,” which reflects its dedication to Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, whose exquisite statues and imagery are a centerpiece of the temple.

殊像寺是该地区最著名最重要的寺庙之一,以其丰富的历史文化和宗教意义而闻名。它的名字“殊像”文言文翻译过来就是“精美的形象”,反映了对文殊菩萨的崇拜,寺中文殊菩萨的精美雕像和画像则是寺庙的核心。

Shuxiang Temple dates back to the Northern Wei Dynasty, making it one of the oldest temples on Wutai Mountain. Over the centuries, it has undergone several renovations and expansions. The main hall of the temple houses a grand, intricately carved statue of Manjushri riding a lion, symbolizing ultimate wisdom and fearlessness. The statue is surrounded by depictions of Buddhist deities and disciples. The statue is richly adorned with vibrant colors, dazzling gold leaf, and detailed features that reflect the artistic brilliance of the time.

殊像寺始建于北魏,是五台山最古老的寺庙之一。几个世纪以来,它经历了多次翻新和扩建。寺庙的正殿供奉着一尊雕刻精美的文殊菩萨骑狮像,象征着至高智慧和无畏精神。雕像周围有佛教神灵和佛家弟子的描像。这座雕像装饰华丽,色彩鲜艳,闪亮的金箔和精细制作细节特征反映了当时的艺术辉煌。

Tayuan Temple

Tayuan Temple is one of the most iconic and revered Buddhist temples in the area. Its history can be dated back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) and was later expanded during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Many people come to this temple to burn incense, show their devotions to Manjushri, symbolizing a prayer for wisdom, clarity, and enlightenment. Pilgrims hope to receive blessings for intellectual and spiritual growth.

塔院寺是五台山地区标志性和最受敬仰的佛教寺庙之一。其历史可以追溯到元朝,后来在明清时期得到扩建。许多人来到这座寺庙烧香,表达对文殊菩萨的虔诚信仰,象征着人们祈求智慧和开悟的决心。朝圣者希望通过祈福获得智力和精神成长的加持。

The towering Great White Pagoda, standing over 50 meters is the defining feature of Tayuan Temple and the tallest structure on Wutai Mountain. The pagoda is built in the Tibetan stupa style, symbolizing the unity of heaven and earth. Its body is smooth and white, representing purity, and it is topped with a gilded spire adorned with delicate bronze ornaments. This white pagoda is the symbol of this mountain, which picture is really impressive in the travel brochure of Wutai Mountain. Unfortunately, when I arrived, it was under reparation.

高达50多米的大白塔是塔院寺的标志性建筑,也是五台山最高的建筑。该塔采用藏族佛塔风格建造,象征天地合一。它的身体光滑洁白,代表着佛家信仰的纯洁,顶部有一个镀金的尖顶,上面装饰着精致的青铜饰物。这座白塔是五台山的代表,总是会出现在五台山的旅游手册里。可惜在我来这里希望一睹它风采的时候却正在修缮中。

This is the main hall of Tayuan Temple. It is a rectangular structure set on a raised stone platform. It is surrounded by a spacious courtyard, allowing pilgrims to gather and perform rituals such as incense burning. There are numerous tourists assembling here even in the early morning. The hall’s roof is a classic example of a hip-and-gable style. The curved eaves sweep upward at the corners. The ridges are adorned with decorative figures, such as dragons and phoenixes, believed to ward off evil and invite blessings. This hall houses a grand statue of Manjushri as well.

这是塔院寺的正殿。它是一个设置在凸起的石头平台上的长方形结构,周围有一个宽敞的庭院,可供香客聚集并进行烧香等仪式。即使清早这里也聚集着太多的游客。大殿的屋顶是歇山顶风格,弯曲的屋檐在拐角处向上略过。屋脊上饰有龙凤等装饰物,人们相信可以用它辟邪招福。正殿内还供奉着一尊宏伟的文殊菩萨雕像。

I arrived at the temple at 7 am and I was shocked that so many people came here to burn the first incense in the morning and knelt in front this hall in the photo to get the blessing. The first incense of the day is believed to be the most powerful and auspicious, as it symbolizes a fresh start and the first connection between the human and divine realms. Pilgrims and devotees wake up so early and cluster here to offer incense, hoping to be the first to receive blessings from the Manjushri.

我一大早7点就抵达寺庙,令我震惊的是,有太多人来这里烧头香,并在照片中的这座殿堂前跪下祈福。当天的第一缕香通常被认为是最有祝福力以及最吉祥的,它象征着一个新的开始以及人与神域之间的第一次共鸣。众香客和信众们早早起床聚在这里就为了上这头注香,希望能够第一个得到文殊菩萨的保佑加持。

Luo Hou Temple

The center area of Wu Tai Mountain hosts many temples. Luo Hou Temple is a Tibetan Buddhist temple surrounded by towering pine trees and enclosed by striking red walls. As one of the significant Tibetan Buddhist sites on the mountain, it embodies the deep influence of Tibetan Buddhism in this holy region. Tibetan Buddhism, commonly known as Lamaism, developed in Tibet and has unique practices and rituals distinct from Chinese Buddhism. The most prominent school of Tibetan Buddhism is the Gelug Sect, founded by the revered monk Tsongkhapa during the Ming Dynasty. Monks of the Gelug Sect traditionally wear yellow robes, which is why they are often referred to as the “Yellow Sect.” Luo Hou Temple has rich Tibetan architectural elements inside.

五台山中心地区有许多寺庙。罗喉寺是一座藏传佛教寺庙,周围环绕着高耸的松树以及引人注目的红墙。作为山上重要的藏传佛教寺庙,它代表了藏传佛教在这一圣地的深厚影响。藏传佛教,俗称喇嘛教,发源于西藏,具有与汉传佛教不同的独特习俗和仪式。藏传佛教最著名的教派是格鲁派,由明代高僧宗喀巴大师创立。格鲁派僧侣传统上身穿黄色袈裟,因此又被称为“黄教”。罗喉寺内部具有浓郁的藏族建筑元素。

Prayer wheels are an integral part of Buddhist practice. They can be found in the Tibetan temples. These wheels, inscribed with sacred texts, mantras, and symbols, hold deep spiritual significance. They are made of bronze and wood, often adorned with intricate carvings and Buddhist imagery. Some larger ones are made of metal and stand on beautifully crafted pedestals. The most common mantra found on these wheels is “Om Mani Padme Hum”, a powerful Tibetan Buddhist chant associated with wisdom and compassion. Pilgrims turn the prayer wheels in a clockwise direction, following Buddhist tradition. This movement symbolizes the cycle of karma and spiritual purification.

转经轮是佛教修行中不可或缺的一部分。它们可以在藏传佛教的寺庙中经常就能看到。这些轮子上刻有神圣的文字、咒语和符号,具有深刻的精神象征意义。它们由青铜或木材制成,通常装饰有复杂的雕刻和佛教图像。一些较大的转轮由金属制成,放置在制作精美的基座上。这些轮子上最常见的咒语是“唵嘛呢贝美吽”,这是一种与智慧和慈悲相关的强大藏传佛教圣歌。朝圣者遵循佛教传统,顺时针方向转动转经筒。这个动作象征着业力的循环和精神的净化。

This is the pavilion of ‘Doushuai’. In Chinese culture, Doushuai is known as Tuṣita in Sanskrit which is a heavenly realm where Bodhisattva resides before their final rebirth into the human world to attain Buddhahood. It holds great significance in Buddhist cosmology. It is one of the Six Heavens of the Desire Realm in Buddhist cosmology. This celestial realm is believed to be a place of bliss and enlightenment, where bodhisattvas cultivate wisdom before descending to the human world. This pavilion is dedicated to Maitreya Bodhisattva, the future Buddha who currently resides in Tuṣita Heaven. It is a multi-storied structure, a rare architectural feature in Buddhist temples, symbolizing the celestial nature of Tuṣita Heaven.

这里是兜率阁。在中国文化中,兜率在梵文中被称为兜率天,是菩萨在最后转世成佛之前居住的天国。它在佛教宇宙论中具有重要意义。是佛教宇宙观中欲界六天之一。这个天界被认为是极乐和开悟的地方,菩萨在下降到人间之前在这里修养智慧。这座阁楼供奉的是现居住在兜率天的未来佛弥勒菩萨。它是一座多层建筑,在佛教寺庙中是比较罕见,象征着兜率天的仙性。

The tiered golden roof is adorned with dharma wheels, lotus motifs, and small golden pagodas, symbolizing wisdom and enlightenment. The curved eaves sweep upward in the traditional Chinese style. The golden tower is a small, gilded stupa. The Dharma Wheel is one of the most sacred symbols in Buddhism, representing the Buddha’s teachings and the path to enlightenment.

层层叠叠的金色屋顶上装饰着法轮、莲花图案和小金塔,象征着智慧和开悟。弧形屋檐向上微微翘起,颇具中国传统风格。金塔其实就是一座微型镀金的小佛塔。而法轮是佛教最神圣的象征之一,代表着佛陀的教义和觉悟之道。

In the scenic spot of Wutai, Dai Luoding is one of the most important temples, known as the “Small Wutai” because it is home to five Manjushri Bodhisattva statues, symbolizing the five major peaks of Mount Wutai. It is a revered pilgrimage site where devotees come to worship, ascend the sacred steps, and seek wisdom from Manjushri Bodhisattva. Of course, visitors can choose cable car to the top, but it lost the sacred meaning.

五台风景区里,黛螺顶是最重要的寺庙之一,因供奉着象征五台山五大山峰的五尊文殊菩萨像,被称为“小五台” 。这里是一处备受尊崇的朝圣地,信徒们登上具有象征意义的台阶前来朝拜,向文殊菩萨寻求指点迷津。当然,游客也可以选择缆车登顶,但这样就失去了象征意义。

Dai Luoding

It is situated on a small peak, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding temples and landscapes of Mount Wutai. It is regarded as a miniature version of the Five Terraces of Wutai, allowing pilgrims who cannot visit all five peaks to complete their worship in one place. Devotees believe that climbing Dai Luoding and worshiping the five Manjushri statues brings the same blessings as visiting all five mountain peaks. To reach the temple at the summit, I climbed the 108 steep stone steps, symbolizing the 108 afflictions in Buddhism that one must overcome to attain enlightenment. It was really an exhausting trip of spirits.

黛螺顶坐落在一座小山峰上,可以将周围的寺庙和五台山的风景尽收眼底。它被视为五台的缩小版,让无法游览五台山五座山峰的香客能够在这一处完成朝拜。信众们相信,登上黛螺顶、朝拜五尊文殊菩萨像,就可以得到与游览五座山峰同样的信仰加持。为了登顶寺庙,我也努力爬了108级陡峭的石阶。它们象征着佛教中必须克服108种烦恼才能获得开悟的必经之路。这确实是一段令人筋疲力尽的修行之旅。

The Tianwang Hall is the first major hall that pilgrims encounter when they ascend the 108 sacred steps leading to the temple. It serves as the entrance to the sacred realm of Manjushri Bodhisattva. The Tianwang Hall follows a classic Chinese temple layout, with a grand double-eaved roof supported by intricately carved wooden beams. The roof ridges are adorned with mythical creatures and Buddhist symbols.

天王殿是香客登上通往寺庙的108级台阶时遇到的第一个大殿。它是进入文殊菩萨圣界的入口。天王殿遵循中国古典寺庙布局,宏伟的重檐屋顶由雕刻精美的木梁支撑。屋脊上装饰着神话生物和佛教符号。

In front of the main hall, many Buddhists and pilgrims burn incense outside the hall and offer prayers in front of the Manjushri statues in the main hall. It is believed that circumambulating (walking around) the incense burner in prayer brings wisdom and enlightenment. incense burning is not allowed inside the halls. Many temple halls are constructed with ancient wooden architecture, making them highly flammable. The smoke from incense can damage murals, ancient statues, and wooden structures as well.

大雄宝殿前,许多佛教徒和香客在殿外烧香祈福。游客们还相信,绕香炉一圈祈福后进香可以获得文殊菩萨保佑并给他们带来智慧和启迪。佛家殿堂内一般不准烧香。许多寺庙殿堂都是古老的木结构建筑,非常易燃。焚香产生的烟雾也会损坏壁画、古代雕像和木结构。

Standing atop Dai Luoding, I was greeted with a breathtaking panoramic view of Mount Wutai’s sacred landscape, where ancient temples, rolling peaks, and mist-covered valleys create a scene of profound serenity and spiritual grandeur. Although I have a bit fear of height, I still enjoy climbing to top of mountains. It will bring me a sense of conquest. From the elevated position of Dai Luoding, I could gaze down upon the cluster of ancient temples. During summer, the mountain comes alive with lush greenery and vibrant flowers. The surrounding pine trees, cypress groves, and meadows make the scene fresh and full of life. Whether admiring the golden temples below, the misty peaks beyond, or the ever-changing sky above, I could not help but feel a deep sense of cleansing of the soul.

站在黛螺顶上,五台山神圣威严的景观尽收眼底,古老的寺庙、连绵的山峰、云雾缭绕的山谷,营造出一种深沉的宁静和宏伟的精神寄托。虽然我一直有点恐高,但还是挺喜欢爬山,登顶会给我带来一种征服感。从黛螺顶的高处,我可以俯视那群古老的寺庙。夏季时分,山上绿树成荫,鲜花盛开,生机勃勃。周围的松柏树林、绿油油的草地使这里一切显得生机盎然。无论是欣赏下面的金色寺庙,远处云雾缭绕的群山,还是穹顶不断变化的天空,我都情不自禁地感受到一种心灵的洗涤。

Guanghua Temple

In Wutai Mountain, I have seen many temples of Tibetan style. Mount Wutai is believed to be the bodhimaṇḍa (道场, sacred site) of Manjushri Bodhisattva. Manjushri is highly revered in both Han Chinese Buddhism and Tibetan Buddhism, making the mountain a common pilgrimage destination for both traditions. Tibetan Buddhists also consider it a sacred place where Manjushri appears in various forms.

五台山的历程中我看到了很多藏式风格的寺庙。五台山被尊为文殊菩萨的道场。文殊菩萨在汉传佛教和藏传佛教中都受到高度尊崇,使这座山成为汉传佛教和藏传佛教共同的朝圣地。同时藏传佛教徒也认为它就是文殊菩萨显圣的圣地。

During the Yuan Dynasty, Tibetan Buddhism (Lamaism) gained imperial support. The rulers built Tibetan-style temples on Mount Wutai to establish religious unity and strengthen ties with Tibetan Buddhist leaders. The Qing Dynasty actively supported Tibetan Buddhism to maintain control over Tibet, Mongolia, and other Tibetan Buddhist regions. Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong frequently visited Mount Wutai and ordered the construction of Tibetan-style temples like the Guanghua Temple in this photo to promote harmonious coexistence between Han and Tibetan Buddhists.

元朝时期,藏传佛教(喇嘛教)得到了皇帝的支持。当时的统治者在五台山修建了藏式寺庙,确立宗教统一并加强与藏传佛教领袖的联系。后来清朝积极扶持藏传佛教,为了维持对西藏、蒙古等藏传佛教地区的控制。康熙和乾隆皇帝经常游览五台山,并下令修建像照片中的广化寺这样的藏式寺庙,以促进汉藏佛教的和谐共处。

The colorful stupa is the symbol of Tibetan Buddhism temple. It has multiple layers stacked in a gradually tapering form, representing the spiritual ascent toward enlightenment. It is adorned with bright reds, yellows, blues, purple and greens, which symbolize the Five Wisdom Buddhas. The spire begins with a lotus-shaped base, symbolizing purity and spiritual awakening. Above the lotus base, the spire features thirteen golden rings, symbolizing the thirteen stages of Buddhist enlightenment. A golden umbrella-shaped structure sits atop the rings, signifying royal dignity. At the very top of the spire is a flaming jewel, representing the highest state of spiritual awakening.

色彩缤纷的佛塔是藏传佛教寺庙的标志。它有多层以逐渐变细的形式堆叠,代表着精神世界向启蒙的提升。它以鲜艳的红、黄、蓝、紫、绿五色装饰,象征五明佛。尖顶以莲花形基座开启,象征纯洁和精神觉醒。莲花底座之上,塔尖有十三道金环,象征着佛教启蒙的十三重境界。金色的伞形结构坐落在圆环的顶部,象征着皇室的尊严。尖塔的最顶端有一颗燃烧的宝石,代表着精神觉醒的最高境界。

I spent nearly one day in visiting most of the famous temples. Pusading temple was the last one visited in the afternoon. Perched on a high ridge overlooking the valley. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it became a Tibetan Buddhist monastery where Dalai Lamas and Panchen Lamas would stay when visiting Mount Wutai.

This mountain was intertwined with the legend of Lu Zhishen. The Wenshu Monastery in Pusading templeis is where he took refuge as a monk. He is my favorite characters from the classic Chinese novel Water Margin. He’s a man of contradictions — a powerful warrior with a tender heart. I admire his unwavering sense of justice and it is a great honor for anyone to have a friend like him.

我花了将近一天的时间参观了五台山大多数所有著名的寺庙。菩萨顶寺是下午参观的最后一座寺庙。它坐落在高高的山脊上,俯瞰着整个山谷。明清时期,这里成为达赖班禅喇嘛游览五台山时下榻的寺院。

这座山亦与鲁智深有所羁绊。菩萨顶寺的文殊院就是他出家避难的地方。他是中国古典小说《水浒传》中我最喜欢的人物。剑胆琴心的鲁智深可以说是一个非常矛盾的人。不过我特别钦佩他坚定不移的正义感,有他这样的朋友对任何人来说都是莫大的荣幸。

Pusading Temple

Pusading Temple is famous for its dazzling golden-roofed halls of Manjushri, which shimmer in the sunlight, symbolizing divine imperial honor. The roofs are built in the Tibetan Buddhist style, featuring layered eaves and upturned corners, similar to the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Pair of deer is placed atop the main hall’s roof, these sacred symbols represent Buddha’s first sermon at Deer Park. The gold-plated tiles and finials symbolize spiritual enlightenment and the wisdom of Manjushri.

菩萨顶寺以其金顶大文殊殿而闻名,这个大殿在阳光下闪闪发光,象征着皇家的荣耀。屋顶采用藏传佛教风格,重檐翘角,与拉萨的布达拉宫类似。主殿屋顶上放置着一对鹿,这种神圣的符号代表佛陀在鹿野苑首次步道说法。镀金的瓷砖和尖顶则象征着精神启蒙和文殊菩萨的智慧。

From the Hall of Manjushri, visitors can enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view of Mount Wutai’s temple-studded landscape. It was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. From the terraces of Pusading, my eyes are drawn to the countless temples scattered across the mountain slopes. In the distance, Tayuan Temple’s Great White Stupa rises majestically, its pristine silhouette standing out among the temple clusters.

从文殊殿,游客可以欣赏到五台山中寺庙林立的壮丽全景。这也是我此次旅行中印象最为深刻的场景之一。从菩萨顶的观景台上,我的目光被散布在山坡上的无数寺庙所吸引。远处,塔院寺的大白塔巍然耸立,其古朴的轮廓在寺庙群中格外醒目。

Looking beyond the temple complex, the vast five sacred peaks of Mount Wutai—stretch into the horizon, each bathed in golden sunlight under the blue sky. The rolling green valleys and deep ravines carve through the landscape. The distant echoes of Buddhist chants and the rhythmic ringing of temple bells float through the air, blending seamlessly with the gentle rustling of pine trees in the breeze.

向寺庙群外远眺,五台山五座雄伟的圣峰蜿蜒伸向地平线,在蓝天下沐浴着金色的阳光。连绵起伏的绿色山谷和深邃的沟壑贯穿天地。远处传来佛门吟唱的细密回声和寺院钟声的韵律在空中飘荡,与微风松树轻柔的沙沙声融为一体。

For my trip in Wutai Mountain, I cannot help but feel a profound sense of reverence and awe. The golden stupa tops, endless mountain peaks, and tranquil monastic life create a view that is not only visually stunning but deeply spiritual. Whether bathed in morning light or embraced by twilight mist, the soothing scenes capture the essence of Buddhist devotion and the eternal beauty of nature, making it an unforgettable experience for all who visit.

对于这次五台山之行,回忆之初不禁怀有深深的敬畏之情。金色的塔顶、连绵不断的山峰、宁静的寺院生活,一笔一划营造出的景色不仅令人惊叹而且颇具宗教精神意义。无论是沐浴在晨曦还是暮色薄雾中,这些舒缓兼具信念的画卷都体现了佛教虔诚的精髓和自然的永恒之美,为所有游客带来难忘的体验。

A UNESCO Gem: The Spiritual and Artistic Wonders of Yungang Grottoes


世界文化艺术遗产的瑰宝:云冈石窟

The Yungang Grottoes stand as one of China’s most magnificent examples of ancient Buddhist art, carved into the sandstone cliffs near Datong in Shanxi Province. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating back to the 5th and 6th centuries during the Northern Wei Dynasty, showcases a remarkable fusion of art, religion, and cultural exchange. Comprising 45 main caves and over 51,000 intricate statues, the Yungang Grottoes reflect the early spread of Buddhism along the Silk Road, blending Indian, Central Asian, and traditional Chinese artistic styles. The towering Buddha statues, detailed reliefs, and carvings within these caves transport visitors back to an era of profound spiritual devotion and artistic achievement.

云冈石窟是中国古代佛教艺术最恢弘的典范,这个世界文化遗产的历史可以追溯到五世纪和六世纪的北魏时期。它开凿于山西省大同附近的砂岩悬崖上,展示了艺术、宗教和文化交流的非凡融合。云冈石窟由 45 个主要洞窟和 51,000 多尊精美雕像组成,反映了佛教沿着丝绸之路的早期传播历史,并且融合了印度、中亚和中国各地的传统艺术风格。这些高耸的佛像、细致的浮雕和雕刻仿佛将游客带入了一个充满虔诚和艺术感的神奇世界。

Set against a rugged natural backdrop, the grottoes not only capture the essence of ancient craftsmanship but also tell the story of a pivotal period in Chinese history when Buddhism flourished as a unifying force. The Northern Wei Dynasty (386–534 CE) was a pivotal period in Chinese history, marking a significant cultural and political transformation. Initially established by the Tuoba clan, a nomadic people of Xianbei origin, the dynasty later underwent a comprehensive process of Sinicization (adoption of Chinese culture) to consolidate its rule over a predominantly Han Chinese population. Over centuries, intermarriage between Xianbei and Han Chinese resulted in the genetic assimilation of the Xianbei people. The Xianbei were absorbed into the Chinese ethnic and cultural identity gradually.

云岗石窟背靠崎岖的自然山脉,它不仅体现了中国古代工艺的精髓,还讲述了历史上佛教作为一股统一力量蓬勃发展的故事。北魏王朝(公元 386-534 年)是中国历史上的一个关键时期,标志着重大的文化和政治转型。该王朝最初由鲜卑游牧民族拓跋氏建立,后来经历了全面的汉化,以巩固其对以汉族人口为主的统治。几个世纪以来,鲜卑人和汉人的通婚导致了鲜卑人的同化。鲜卑人也逐渐融入中华的民族文化认同之中。

The Yungang Grottoes are located near the city of Datong, in Shanxi Province. They are situated about 16 kilometers west of Datong’s city center, along the southern foothills of the Wuzhou Mountains. I visited this famous world cultural heritage by bus on July 6th, 2023. The public transport system in China is well established and most attractive sites are easily accessible by public transport. This is the entrance of this monument, a specially designed hall with ancient architectural style.

云冈石窟景区位于山西省大同市附近。它们位于大同市以西约16公里处,沿着武州山脉南麓而建。 2023年7月6日,我乘坐公交车就轻松参观了这个著名的世界文化遗产。如今中国的公共交通系统十分完善,大多数极具吸引力的景点都可以通过公共交通轻松到达。这里就是景区的入口,一个专门设计的颇具古风的大厅。

At the entrance, there is statue of Yun Yao. He was a key figure in the construction and artistic direction of the Yungang Grottoes during the Northern Wei Dynasty. As a prominent Buddhist monk, he played a leading role in promoting and overseeing the carving of the grottoes. The Yungang Grottoes were constructed as an imperial initiative under the Northern Wei Dynasty to demonstrate devotion to Mahayana Buddhism which was introduced to China via the Silk Road.

入口处有云曜师傅的雕像。他是北魏时期云冈石窟建设和艺术指导的关键人物。作为佛教高僧,他在推动和监督石窟开凿方面发挥了主导作用。云冈石窟是北魏皇帝为了表达对通过丝绸之路传入中国的大乘佛教的虔诚信仰而兴建的。

After the Northern Wei court officially embraced Buddhism, Yunyao was entrusted with the task of coordinating the creation of these massive cave temples. His influence is reflected in the grandeur and spiritual essence of the grottoes, as well as their intricate carvings and statues.

北魏王朝正式皈依佛教后,云曜师傅被委以协调建造这些大型石窟的任务。他的影响体现在石窟的宏伟规模以及复杂的雕刻和雕像上的精神象征意义。

This is the example of one tower sculpture during the Northern Wei Dynasty. The Northern Wei Dynasty rulers used Buddhism to legitimize their authority, presenting themselves as Chakravartins (wheel-turning monarchs). Supporting Buddhism aligned the dynasty with divine and moral authority, reinforcing their position as rightful rulers.

这是北魏时期的塔雕。北魏统治者例如胡太后利用佛教来使自己的权威合法化,统治者自称为转轮圣王。支持佛教则使王朝的神圣和道德权威保持一致,巩固了他们作为合法统治者的地位。

The construction of pagodas became a significant expression of Buddhist devotion. Pagodas in this era were influenced by Indian stupa designs, but they gradually adopted a more vertical, multi-tiered structure to align with Chinese aesthetic preferences. Some pagodas had octagonal bases, a design seen as both practical and symbolic in Buddhist cosmology.

佛塔的建造成为对佛教虔诚信仰的重要体现。这个时代的佛塔受到印度佛塔设计的影响,但逐渐采用更加垂直、多层的结构,以符合中国人的审美偏好。一些宝塔有八角形底座,这种设计在佛教宇宙论中被视为既实用又具有象征意义。

On the route towards the grotto, there is a small man-made lake, providing reflective surfaces that mirror the grottoes and surrounding cliffs. The lake is surrounded by gardens, walking paths, and wooden bridges, offering visitors picturesque spots for relaxation and photography. Pagodas, pavilions, and stone carvings are strategically placed near the water, enhancing the Buddhist cultural theme of the area.

在通往石窟的路上,有一个人工小湖,湖面的反光反射着石窟和周围的悬崖。湖周围环绕着花园、步道和木桥,为游客提供风景如画的休息场所和摄影点。塔、亭、石雕巧妙地临水而建,彰显景区的佛教文化主题。

The grottoes are carved directly into the sandstone cliffs along a stretch of approximately 1 kilometer.
The cliff side is uneven and natural, but it has been transformed by the carved entrances, niches, and facades that house the caves, creating a dramatic visual effect. The grottos appear to rise from the mountain, with the larger caves recessed deep into the rock, while smaller niches dot the cliff face like a honeycomb.

这些石窟居然直接开凿在砂岩悬崖上,悬崖总共绵延约 1 公里。自然形成的悬崖起伏不平,面貌已被精细雕刻的壁龛和洞穴外墙所替换,产生了千疮百孔般奇特的视觉效果。这些石窟似乎从山中拔地而起,大型的石窟完全深入岩石中,而较小的壁龛则像蜂窝一样点缀在悬崖表面。

As I moved closer to the wall, I could observe clearly many caves with stone reliefs and ornamental carvings, including niches housing small Buddha statues. These carvings highlight the spiritual significance of the grottoes and showcase a fusion of Indian, Central Asian, and early Chinese Buddhist art styles. The sandstone cliffs have been weathered over time, giving the exterior an aged look now.

当我慢慢靠近墙壁时,我可以清楚地观察到众多带有石制浅浮雕和装饰的洞穴以及装有小佛像的壁龛。这些雕刻凸显了石窟的宗教象征意义,展示了印度、中亚和早期中国佛教艺术风格的融合。随着时间的推移,这些砂岩悬崖大多已经风化,现在的外观呈现出沧桑的历史感。

Cave 3

There are more than 20 caves in this scenic area and travelers can go through them slowly one by one. The Linyan Temple Cave is the third cave. It is named after the temple that once existed in its vicinity. The main Buddha statue of 10 meters height in this cave is a central focus, flanked by smaller figures of bodhisattvas, disciples, and guardian deities. This statue looked friendly and seemed to say hi to all the visitors. The carvings display a transition in artistic style, blending Indian Gandharan influences with early Chinese Buddhist art. Unfortunately the color of the surface has been eroded severely.

景区内有20多个洞窟供游客一一慢慢游览。临岩寺洞为第三洞。它以其附近曾经存在的寺庙而得名。洞内的主佛像高 10 米,占据C位,两侧是较小的菩萨、弟子和护法神像。这座大雕像看上去很友善,似乎在向所有的游客行礼。这些雕刻充分展示了魏晋时代艺术风格的转变,将印度犍陀罗的影响与中国早期佛教艺术融为一体。遗憾的是这些表面颜色已被严重侵蚀。

Cave 5

The Cave 5 is a very impressive cave. It has a rectangular layout, with the main Buddha of height 17 meters seated at the center facing the entrance. The Buddha of Gandharan style is depicted in a serene, meditative posture, embodying compassion and enlightenment. Surrounding the main Buddha are several bodhisattvas, disciples, and heavenly kings carved into the walls, each symbolizing different aspects of Buddhist philosophy. The open space within the cave is designed to inspire awe, allowing me to fully absorb the spiritual and artistic significance of the Buddha statue. This is the highest and largest Buddha statue of the Yungang grotto.

五号洞窟是一个非常令人印象深刻的洞穴。它的平面呈长方形,主佛高17米,端坐正中,面向入口。犍陀罗风格的佛陀以安详、冥想的姿势呈现,体现了我佛慈悲和心灵觉悟。主佛周围的墙壁上刻有几位菩萨、佛家弟子和天王,分别象征着佛教哲学的不同层次。洞内如此开阔的空间令人心生敬畏,让我充分领略佛像的宗教和艺术意义。这也是云冈石窟最高大的佛像。

The statues inside remain remarkably intact. The art style and the color combination really left me a deep impression. The ceiling was intricately decorated with lotus motifs and flying apsaras (celestial beings) in dynamic poses, symbolizing joy and divine presence. The cave walls are adorned with vivid bas-reliefs depicting Buddhist sutras and stories from the life of the Buddha, such as his enlightenment and teaching journeys.

洞穴里面的雕像保存十分完好。美术风格和各种色彩组合给我留下了深刻的印象。洞顶装饰着精美的莲花图案和动态的飞天像,象征着佛家欢乐和神圣的存在。而洞壁上装饰着生动的浅浮雕,描绘了佛经轶事和佛陀一生的启蒙和传法之旅的故事。

It shows the exceptional craftsmanship, with innovations in stone carving and iconography. Techniques such as high-relief carving, detailed mural painting, and layered sculptural arrangements illustrate the advanced artistry of the period.

这里也展示了当时卓越的工艺以及石雕和图像绘画方面的创新。高浮雕、细致的壁画、分层的雕塑排列等技术展现了这一时期先进的艺术水平。

Cave 6

This is the entrance cave 6. There are some elaborate carvings adorning the entrances of the larger caves like cave 5 and 6. These carvings depict guardians and heavenly kings. The walls are painted with images of the Eighteen Arhats, nine on each wall, holding different instruments and standing among the sea of ​​clouds. The guardians are often depicted with fierce expressions, dynamic postures, and ornate armor, contrasting with the calm demeanor of the Buddha. Cave 6 has been well-preserved compared to other caves in the complex, thanks to its relatively sheltered location.

这是第 6 窟的入口。第 5 窟和第 6 窟等较大洞穴的入口处陈列有一些精美的雕刻。这些雕刻描绘了佛家守护者和护法天王。墙壁上另外绘有十八罗汉的图像,每面九个罗汉,各个手持不同的法器,立在云海之中。护法天王雕刻通常表情凶猛,姿势动感,盔甲华丽,与佛陀平静的神态形成鲜明对比。由于位置相对隐蔽,与整个建筑群中的其他洞穴相比,第 6 窟保存特别完好。

Cave 6

The figure in the cave 6 is a large, seated statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, radiating an air of wisdom and compassion. The Buddha is depicted in the teaching mudra (gesture), symbolizing his role as a spiritual teacher who imparts the path to enlightenment. The bas-reliefs and carvings are extremely extraordinary. They cover nearly every surface of the cave, depicting key moments from the life of Shakyamuni Buddha. Bodhisattvas stand alongside the Buddha, symbolizing compassion and the aspiration to help all sentient beings achieve enlightenment. They are elaborately adorned with jewelry, crowns, and flowing robes, reflecting their role as semi-divine beings who bridge the human and celestial realms.

第六窟内供奉释迦牟尼佛的大坐像,它的全身都散发着智慧与慈悲的气息。佛陀雕塑以传教手势雕刻,象征着他作为传授觉悟之道的精神导师的角色。这些浅浮雕华丽非凡,它们几乎覆盖了洞穴的每个表面,描绘了释迦牟尼佛一生的重要时刻。菩萨与佛并肩而立,象征着佛家的慈悲心和普度众生成佛的祈愿。精心装饰着珠宝、王冠和飘逸的长袍,鲜明地体现他们作为连接人类和天界的半神人物的独特性。

At the left side of this photo, it is a massive central pillar. Visitors walked around this pillar in admiration of the statues. They were carved on all sides of walls, richly decorated with scenes of Buddhist cosmology and stories. The reliefs depict dozens of stories about the life of Sakyamuni. They narrate the story of Siddhartha Gautama, a prince of the ancient Indian Sakya clan, who was born with extraordinary intelligence. He was deeply troubled by meaning of life, and decided to become a monk to look for personal liberation. He overcame all kinds of difficulties, defeating the demon army, and finally attained enlightenment and became the Sakyamuni.

在这张照片的左侧,有一个巨大的中央石柱。游客们绕着这座柱子走来走去,欣赏着这些雕像。墙壁的四面都雕刻着佛教宇宙观和佛经的场景。浮雕描绘了数十个有关释迦牟尼一生的故事。它们讲述了古印度释迦族王子悉达多·乔达摩的故事,他天生具有非凡的智慧同时对生命的意义深感困扰,便决定出家寻求个人精神解脱。后来他克服了种种困难,打败了魔军,最终证悟成佛,成为释迦牟尼。

The cave walls are covered with rows of small Buddha statues, known as thousand-Buddha motifs.
These figures are arranged in orderly tiers, symbolizing the omnipresence of the Buddha and the infinite nature of his teachings. Each figure is meticulously carved, despite their small size, and their uniformity emphasizes the collective spiritual power of the Buddhist community.

洞壁上还布满了成排的小佛像,它们被称为千佛图。这些人物排列有序,象征着佛陀的无所不在和佛法的无边本质。每尊佛像虽小,但都经过精心雕刻,其统一性强调了佛教界的集体精神力量。

The walls and ceilings of the cave feature numerous apsaras, or celestial beings, in mid-flight. These figures, often carved in dynamic poses, appear to float above the central statues, scattering flowers and playing musical instruments. In addition to apsaras, the cave features lokapalas (world protectors) and devas (celestial beings), depicted in graceful poses. For people who are interested in art of Buddhism, this place is really a treasure-house.

洞穴的墙壁和天花板上有许多飞天。这些人物通常以动态姿势雕刻,似乎漂浮在中央雕像上方,洒落鲜花并演奏乐器。除了飞天之外,洞穴中还有洛卡帕拉斯(世界保护者)和优雅的天神的雕塑。对于对佛教艺术感兴趣的人来说,这里真是一个宏大的宝库。

The Yungang Grottoes feature a wide array of niches, from tiny alcoves to large, open niches housing monumental statues. Early niches were influenced by Indian and Central Asian styles, emphasizing simplicity and symmetry. Later the niches evolved to include Chinese aesthetic elements, such as pagoda-inspired frames and detailed ornamentation. The integration of local culture led to unique styles, blending Indian iconography with Chinese craftsmanship. These niches are unique artist element. They are small but profound architectural and artistic features that encapsulate the spiritual essence of Buddhist devotion.

云冈石窟里有各种各样的壁龛,从微小的壁龛到装有纪念性雕像的大型开放壁龛。早期的壁龛受到印度和中亚风格的影响,强调简洁和对称。后来,壁龛演变为例如宝塔风格等包含中国美学元素的形式。文化的融合形成了这种独特的风格,将印度风格图案与中国工艺融为一体。这些壁龛是一种独特的艺术家元素。它们虽小,但意义深远且据艺术特色,浓缩了佛教的精神信仰。

There are many colored Buddhist statues in the Yungang Grottoes. The statues were painted with natural pigments, including red and yellow ochres derived from iron oxide, white kaolin clay for highlights.
azurite and malachite for blue and green tones. In that period, people could not manufacture dyes using chemical methods. Purple and gold are rare pigments, so they are not used so much in Yungang Grotto. In Chinese culture, red symbolized vitality and sacred energy, blue was associated with calmness and the infinite nature of the cosmos. Colors brought lifelike qualities to the statues, making them more relatable and engaging for devotees.

云冈石窟内有许多彩色佛像。这些雕像是用天然颜料绘制的,这些土颜料包括从氧化铁中提取的红色和黄色赭石,以及白色高岭土。蓝铜矿和孔雀石可呈现蓝色和绿色色调。那个时期,人们还不能用化学方法制造染料。紫色和金色在古代一直是稀有颜料,所以在云冈石窟中使用得不多。在中国文化中,红色象征着活力和神圣,蓝色则与平静和宇宙的无限本质相关。这些颜色为雕像带来了栩栩如生的品质,使它们对信徒来说更容易产生共鸣和吸引力。

Cave 13

I have visited more than 20 caves and I will only highlight the caves with most impressive statues. Cave 13 is dedicated to Manjushri Bodhisattva, the embodiment of wisdom in Buddhism. The central figure is Manjushri which is often depicted riding a lion, representing the power of wisdom to overcome ignorance. The statue is elegantly proportioned, with a serene expression, intricately carved robes, and elaborate adornments that reflect the high artistic standards of the Northern Wei period. Due to the huge size of the main statue, the Bodhisattva’s raised right hand could not be suspended in the air, so the Yungang craftsmen “tailor-made” a four-armed warrior to hold up the huge arm. This design solved the problem of supporting the huge arm.

我总共游览了超过20 个洞穴,此文只会重点介绍那些拥有令人印象深刻的洞穴。云岗第13窟供奉着佛教智慧的化身文殊菩萨。文殊菩萨在佛家典籍里经常被描绘成骑着狮子,代表着智慧战胜无知的人物形象。这座造像比例优雅,神态安详,衣袍雕工精细,装饰精美,体现了北魏时期的高艺术水平。由于主像体型巨大,菩萨举起的右手无法悬浮在空中,于是云冈工匠“量身定做”了一个四臂武士来托起巨大的手臂。这样的设计解决了支撑巨大手臂的问题。

cave 19

Several huge caves are exposed directly in air. Cave 19, known as the Baosheng Buddha Cave houses the second-largest Buddha statue in the entire complex. The Buddha statue of height 16.8 meter is colossal, with their serene faces and intricate details still visible despite centuries of exposure. It is carved directly into the cliff face. Exposed statues face greater risks of damage from natural elements and human activities. Efforts are ongoing to protect and preserve these cultural treasures, including stabilization of the cliff face and protective measures to prevent further degradation.

还有几个巨型洞穴则直接暴露在露天。第 19 窟被称为宝胜佛洞,供奉着整个建筑群中第二大的佛像。这座佛像高 16.8 米,体态巨大,尽管经历了几个世纪的风吹雨打,但其宁静的面容和复杂的雕塑细节仍然清晰可见。这个佛像直接雕刻在悬崖面上。裸露的雕像面临着更大的自然因素和人类活动损坏的风险。目前专家正在通过稳定悬崖面努力保护这些文化宝藏并采取保护措施防止风化。

Cave 20

The most magnificent, iconic and representative statue must be the one in the cave 20. The seated Buddha is monumental, standing approximately 13.7 meters tall, with a serene expression. The Buddha’s face exudes tranquility and compassion, characterized by an elongated, oval shape, narrow eyes, and a slight smile. The both hands rest on the lap, symbolizing meditation and inner peace. The Buddha is framed by a carved halo (aureole) adorned with intricate patterns of lotus flowers and celestial motifs, symbolizing divinity and enlightenment.

整个云冈石窟最宏伟、最具标志代表性的雕塑当属第20窟的造像。整个佛像气势磅礴,高约13.7米,神态安详。佛陀的脸庞呈椭圆形,眼睛细长,面带微笑,散发着宁静和慈悲的气息。双手放置在腿上如同打坐的姿势,象征着冥想和内心的平静。佛陀的周围是雕刻的光环,装饰着复杂的莲花图案和星体图案,象征着神性和启蒙。

This is the panoramic view of the Buddha statue. Flanking the central Buddha are smaller statues of disciples, depicted with detailed robes and jewelry. The robe is really an artistic marvel, with finely carved folds that flow naturally over the body, showcasing the sculptor’s attention to detail and mastery of stone-carving techniques. The cave appears as an extension of the rock itself, seamlessly blending human artistry with the natural world.

这是佛像的全景图。中央佛像的两侧是较小的佛家弟子雕像,这些雕像清晰描绘出精致的袈裟和珠宝。佛像上的袈裟雕刻确实是一件艺术瑰宝,雕刻精美的褶皱在身体上自然流动,展示了雕塑家对细节的关注和对石雕技术掌握的如火纯青。这座洞窟如同岩石的延伸,将人类艺术与自然世界无缝地融合在一起。

Walking through this area felt like stepping into a living history book. The moment I oberseved it, the grandeur of the carved cliff face took my breath away. Towering statues of serene Buddhas gazed down with an air of wisdom, their expressions calm yet commanding. It was as if the past was alive, speaking silently through these ancient masterpieces.

漫游至此就如同卷入一本活生生的青史竹简。当我注视到它的那一刹那,雕像的的宏伟让我惊叹不已赞不绝口。如此高大的佛像安详地俯视众生,神情平静而威严依存。这一刻仿佛已逝去的岁月重新复活,依托在这些古老的杰作中无声地诉说着北魏王朝的昔日时光。

The artistic style of Cave 20 reflects a fusion of Indian Gupta influences (rounded faces, gentle expressions) and early Chinese aesthetics (elongated features, focus on symbolism). Its open structure allows natural light to illuminate the statues, creating dynamic shadows that enhance the sense of depth and divine radiance. Every visitor will take a memorable photo at the platform in front of the statues. Standing before the Grand Buddha was really a stunning experience, as its immense scale and intricate details create an overwhelming sense of spiritual awe. Human being looked so tiny at this moment.

第20窟的艺术风格体现了印度笈多王朝对中原文化的影响,这座雕像圆润的脸庞、温柔的表情和早期中国美学特征拉长的五官、注重象征意义等融合。另外其开放式结构使自然光充分照亮局部雕像,产生动态阴影,并增强深度和神性光辉。每位参观云岗石窟的游客都会在雕像前的平台上留下难忘的照片。站在大佛前确实是一种震撼的体验,它巨大的规模和错综复杂的细节营造了一种压倒性的精神敬畏感,人类在这一刻显得是如此的渺小。

In the west of cave 20, there are some small caves which were built in the later period of North Wei Dynasty. Many of them were not conserved very well. Unlike the earlier caves adorned with intricate reliefs and detailed carvings, the small caves often feature minimalist designs. Due to their smaller scale, many of these caves have suffered significant erosion and degradation over time. The sandstone of the Yungang Grottoes is inherently soft and porous, making the smaller caves particularly vulnerable to erosion. Some caves have small side niches or inscribed panels, but they lack the complex architectural elements and spatial divisions seen in earlier caves. The small caves reflect a localization of Buddhist art as the religion became more integrated into Chinese society.

第20窟西侧有一些北魏后期所建的小窟。其中许多都没有得到很好的保存。与早期的洞穴装饰着复杂的浮雕和细致的雕刻不同,这些小洞穴通常采用简约的设计。由于规模较小,许多洞穴随着时间的推移遭受了严重的侵蚀和风化。云冈石窟的砂岩本质上柔软且多孔,使得较小的洞穴特别容易受到侵蚀。有些小洞穴里有小的侧壁龛或石刻板,但缺乏早期建造的洞穴中复杂的建筑元素和详细的空间划分。随着北魏后期佛教越来越融入中国社会,这些小洞穴则反映了佛教艺术的本土化。

Cave 39

There are totally 40 caves here and needs around 2 to 3 hours to finish all of them. At the heart of the cave 39 is a five-level stone pagoda carved entirely from the rock, symbolizing Mount Sumeru, the cosmic center in Buddhist cosmology. These pagodas are often multi-tiered with overhanging eaves, mimicking the design of wooden pagodas. The five levels represent spiritual ascension and the five elements in Buddhist philosophy: earth, water, fire, wind, and space. As I walked around it, I could see the miniature Buddha reliefs seated in niches. The delicate carvings and faded traces of paint really invited closer observation.

云冈石窟景区共有40个洞穴,大约需要2至3个小时才能全部游览完。第39窟的中心是一座完全由岩石雕刻而成的五层石塔,象征着佛教宇宙学的中心须弥山。这些塔通常是多层的,有悬檐,模仿传统木塔的设计。这五个层次代表了精神境界的逐步提升和佛教哲学中的五种元素:地、水、火、风和空。我绕它一周清晰看到壁龛里端坐着的微型佛像浮雕。这些精致的雕刻和褪色的油墨痕迹需要细品。

An upper-level platform allows visitors to explore the smaller caves after number 20 that is carved higher up along the cliff face. These caves were built as Buddhism spread and became more localized. Smaller caves catered to individual or small group meditation rather than grand communal ceremonies. The initial construction of the Yungang Grottoes involved significant state resources, reflecting the Northern Wei court’s commitment to promoting Buddhism. Over time, as the dynasty’s priorities shifted to the new capital Luo Yang, the scale of cave construction decreased, leading to smaller and simpler designs.

景区还搭建了一个上层平台供游客探索 20 号洞穴之后的较小洞穴,这些洞穴沿着悬崖面开凿,地势更高。这些洞穴是随着佛教的传播而后建造,并且风格变得更加本地化。较小的洞穴适合个人冥想,而不适用盛大的官方仪式。云冈石窟的初期建设动用了大量的国家资源,体现了北魏王朝弘扬佛教的决心。随着时间的推移,以及王朝的重点逐步转移到新都洛阳,洞穴建筑群的规模逐渐缩小。


As my journey through the Yungang Grottoes came to an end, the overwhelming sense of wonder remained etched in my heart. Each cave and each statue told a story of the spread of Buddhism along the Silk Road, the political aspirations of the Northern Wei Dynasty, and the universal human pursuit of enlightenment. Beyond their artistic splendor, the Yungang Grottoes is also a symbol of resilience of Chinese culture, which have endured the ravages of time, weather, and human impact, still standing proudly as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for travellers from all around the world to visit.

当我的云冈石窟之旅结束时,那份震撼人心的感官刺激仍深深地萦绕在我的心头。这里每一个洞窟、每尊雕像都细致阐述了佛教沿着丝绸之路传播的故事、北魏王朝的政治诉求以及佛家子弟追求启蒙的故事。除了艺术的辉煌,云冈石窟也是中华文明顽强的象征,它经历了时间的洗礼、风雨的摧残和人类的影响,如今仍然顶天立地作为世界文化遗产供全世界游客顶礼膜拜。

Pingyao: The Timeless Charm of China’s Ming and Qing Dynasty Streets

平遥:再现明清时期街道的古城

Pingyao, located in Shanxi Province, China, is one of the best-preserved ancient walled cities in the country, with a history that spans over 2,700 years. Established during the Western Zhou Dynasty (1046–771 BCE), it rose to prominence during the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1912) dynasties as a vital center for commerce and finance.

平遥位于中国山西省,是中国保存最完好的古城墙城市之一,拥有2700多年的历史。平遥始建于西周时期,明清时期成为重要的商业和金融中心。

Famed for its well-preserved city walls, traditional courtyard houses and paved streets, Pingyao offers visitors a rare glimpse into ancient Chinese urban life. The city played a pivotal role in China’s financial history, becoming the epicenter of banking during the late Qing Dynasty. It was home to the country’s first bank, Rishengchang, which laid the foundation for modern banking in China.

平遥以其保存完好的城墙、传统的四合院和板石铺成的街道而闻名,游客可以在这里一窥中国古代的城市生活。这座城市在中国金融史上也发挥了举足轻重的作用,成为晚清银行业的中心。这里是中国第一家银行日升昌的所在地,为中国现代银行业奠定了基础。

Pingyao’s architectural layout, including its impressive city walls, ancient temples, government offices, and merchant residences, remains largely intact, reflecting the urban planning and aesthetics of old China. In 1997, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its significant contribution to Chinese history and culture. Today, Pingyao stands as a living museum of China’s ancient civilization, drawing travelers who seek to immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of history and tradition. I travelled in this city on Juin 29,2023 and stayed here experiencing the life here for two days.

平遥的建筑布局,包括令人印象深刻的城墙、古老的寺庙,县衙和民宅,基本完好无损,反映了中国古代的城市规划和建筑美学。1997年,它被列为联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产,以表彰其对中国历史和文化的重大贡献。如今,平遥是中国古代城市文明的活化石,吸引着那些想要沉浸在丰富的历史和传统中的旅行者。我于2023年 6 月 29 日来到这座城市,并在这里住了两天体验了当地的生活。

Pingyao’s ancient city walls are perhaps its most defining feature. It was the starting point of my trip. Constructed in 1370 during the Ming Dynasty, they stretch approximately 6 kilometers in length and stand about 10 meters high. The walls are punctuated by 72 watchtowers, which symbolize the 72 wise men in Confucian philosophy, and 3,000 battlements, representing the disciples of Confucius. The walls are made of rammed earth and faced with brick, forming an imposing defense system that still surrounds the old city. I was standing at the south gate of the city, wondering the old history of this city. There is an open space outside of the gate for taking photo.

平遥古城墙也许是其最具特色的景点。这是我此行的起点。古城墙建于明朝1370年,长约6公里,高约10米。城墙上有72座瞭望塔,象征着儒家思想中的72位智者,城墙上还有3,000个城垛,代表着孔子的三千弟子。城墙主体由夯土砌成,外墙用砖砌成,形成了一个雄伟的防御体系,至今仍环绕着古城。我此刻站在南城门惊叹于这里悠久的历史。城门外有一大片空地非常适合游客拍照。

Its 72 watchtowers are positioned at regular intervals along the perimeter. These towers were crucial to the city’s defense, serving as observation points from which guards could keep watch over the surrounding landscape and detect approaching threats. The number 72 representing the 72 wise disciples of Confucius. These watchtowers are small, square-shaped structures that protrude slightly from the wall, offering archers and soldiers a vantage point from which to observe and attack enemies without being exposed. Each watchtower is designed with arrow slits—narrow vertical openings in the walls that allow defenders to shoot arrows while remaining protected from incoming fire. The towers also provided storage for weapons and supplies during times of conflict.

城墙上均匀分布着72座瞭望塔。这些塔楼对城市的防御至关重要,它们是监视周围地形和发现敌方的哨所。72这个数字代表传承孔子思想的七十二哲。这些瞭望塔是小型的方形建筑,略微突出于城墙,为弓箭手射击提供了一个有利位置,从瞭望塔观察攻击敌人不会暴露。每座瞭望塔都设计有箭眼—就是城墙墙壁上狭窄的垂直开口,这种设计可让防御者可以自由射箭,同时又能免受敌方火力的伤害。在战争时期,这些塔楼还可用于储存武器和物资。

South Gate

The walls have six main gates—two on the east and west, one on the north, and one on the south—symbolizing the ancient belief in balancing the cosmos. This reflects the traditional Chinese view of a symmetrical and ordered universe. Each of the six gates is guarded by a gate tower that serves both as a defensive stronghold and a symbol of power. These towers are larger and more elaborate than the watchtowers, featuring multiple stories with sloping, tiled roofs and intricate wooden beams. The gate towers also serve as observation points and house weapons for defending the city entrances.

平遥城墙共有六座大门,东西两座,南北面各一座,它们象征着古代宇宙平衡的思想,反映了中国历史上传统的宇宙对称的信仰。六座大门均有城楼镇卫,城楼既是防御堡垒,也是权力的象征。这些城楼比瞭望塔更大更精致,有多层楼结构构成,屋顶倾斜铺有瓦片,木梁错综复杂。城楼也可作为观察点,并存放用于防御的武器。

Along the top of the wall are battlements, which include crenelations (the alternating high and low sections along the wall’s edge). These crenelations are designed to give archers and soldiers cover as they moved along the top of the wall. The high sections of the battlements protected the defenders, while the gaps allowed them to fire arrows or projectiles at approaching enemies. Today, Pingyao’s city walls, along with its watchtowers, remain well-preserved. Visitors can walk along the top of the wall, providing panoramic views of the ancient city below and the surrounding countryside.

城墙顶部有城垛,城垛上分布者垛口(城墙边高低交替的部分)。这些垛口的设计是为了给沿城墙顶部移动的弓箭手和士兵提供掩护。城垛的高墙保护着守军,而城垛低处的空隙则让他们可以向接近的敌人射箭或投掷重物。如今平遥的城墙和瞭望塔仍然保存完好。游客可以沿着城墙顶部行走,欣赏下方古城和周围乡村的全景。

Mingqing Street

Pingyao’s street grid is a prime example of traditional Chinese urban planning, heavily influenced by Confucian principles and feng shui. The layout reflects harmony, order, and balance, both in terms of functionality and symbolic meaning. The overall street grid forms a rectangular pattern, with the city walls enclosing the grid and the four main city gates positioned in alignment with the cardinal directions—north, south, east, and west. This arrangement follows traditional Chinese feng shui principles, which emphasize the alignment of human structures with natural forces, such as wind and water, to maintain harmony and balance. The South Avenue also known as Mingqing Street, in this photo runs from the southern gate toward the city center, forming the main artery of the city.

平遥的街道布局是中国传统城市规划的典范,深受儒家思想和风水的影响。无论是在功能性方面还是在象征意义方面,这种布局都体现了和谐、秩序和平衡。这种整体街道网格呈矩形,城墙围绕着网格,四个主要城门指向正东、南、北、西四个方向。这种布局遵循了中国传统的风水原理,强调人体结构与风水等自然力量的协调,以保持和谐与平衡。这张照片中的南大街也被称为明清街,从南门延伸到市中心,形成了城市的主干道。

Market Tower

The grid pattern of Pingyao’s streets also reflects the city’s historical role as a major commercial hub, especially during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The main streets are lined with ancient shops, merchant houses, and businesses that once thrived during the city’s golden age of trade. At the heart of Pingyao’s grid layout is the Market Tower (Shilou), a tall and iconic structure located at the intersection of South Avenue and West Avenue. Every tourist will take a photo here. The Market Tower served as both a watchtower and a symbol of the city’s commercial prosperity. Its central position reflects the idea that commerce was the lifeblood of Pingyao, and the tower also offers an elevated vantage point from which guards could oversee the city’s activities. The streets radiating from the Market Tower were the busiest areas of the city, bustling with merchants, traders, and customers.

平遥街道的网格状布局也反映了这座城市作为明清时期主要商业中心的历史地位。主要街道两旁林立着古老的商店、商铺和曾经在城市贸易黄金时代蓬勃发展的企业。这种网格布局的核心是图中的市楼,这是一座高大的标志性建筑,位于南大街和西大街的交汇处。每位游客都会在这里拍照留念。市楼既是瞭望塔,也是这座城市商业繁荣的象征。它所处的中心位置反映了商业是平遥命脉的理念,塔楼还提供了居高临下的有利位置,警卫可以从那里监督城市的活动。从这个市楼向外辐射的街道是这座城市最繁忙的地区,到处都是熙熙攘攘的商人和顾客。

The street grid of Pingyao also reflects the Confucian social hierarchy that governed life in ancient China. The most important and wealthiest families typically lived in houses close to the main streets, while less prominent families lived in smaller alleyways farther from the city center. The north-facing homes along South Avenue were reserved for the wealthiest merchants and officials, reflecting their higher status in society. These residences are larger and more ornate, often featuring intricately carved woodwork and stone decorations. Smaller shops and homes for artisans, craftsmen, and lower-class families were located along the side streets and alleys, away from the main thoroughfares.

平遥的街道网格也反映了古代中国儒家社会等级制度。最显赫和最富有的家庭通常住在靠近主要街道的房子里,而普通家庭则住在远离市中心的小巷里。南大街沿线朝北的房屋是为最富有的商人和官员保留的,反映了他们在社会中较高的地位。这些住宽敞华丽,通常以精雕细琢的木制品和石饰为特色装饰而成。工匠、手艺人和下层家庭的小商店和住宅则位于远离主干道的小街小巷。

Traditional siheyuan (courtyard homes) dominate the residential areas of Pingyao. These homes feature a central courtyard surrounded by rooms on all four sides, with the main hall at the north facing south. The symmetry of the courtyard homes mirrors the Chinese cultural emphasis on family hierarchy and social order, with the head of the family occupying the northernmost rooms. Many of these homes are intricately designed with stone carvings, wooden beams, and painted murals. From the architectural elements, tourists could know some Chinese traditional culture. Many of the houses have been transformed into hostels so tourists can experience the lives here.

平遥的住宅区以传统的四合院为主。这些住宅有一个中央庭院,四面环绕着房间,北面的主厅朝南讲究一个坐北朝南。庭院住宅的对称性反映了中国文化对家庭等级和社会秩序的重视,一家之主通常住在最北边的房间。这样的房子设计精巧,装饰有石雕、木梁和彩绘壁画。从建筑元素中,游客可以了解一些中国传统文化。这里许多房子已经改造成民宿,让游客可以体验这里的生活。

The old houses are built primarily from gray brick and wood, common materials in traditional Chinese architecture. The roofs are gabled, with elegant and curved eaves that sweep upward at the corners, which is a distinct feature of Ming and Qing architecture. The curved eaves are not only aesthetically pleasing but also serve a practical purpose by channeling rainwater away from the walls of the house.

老房子主要用中国传统建筑常用的灰砖和木材建造。屋顶为人字形,屋檐优雅而蜿蜒,拐角处向上弯曲,这是明清建筑的显著特征。弯曲的屋檐不仅美观,而且具有将雨水从房屋墙壁引流出去的实用功能。

Wooden beams and brackets are often intricately carved with floral patterns, mythical animals, or auspicious symbols like the dragon and phoenix, symbolizing wealth, protection, and good fortune.
The doors and windows are often decorated with latticework, featuring intricate geometric or floral patterns. In many cases, the windows have red paper or wooden screens behind them, which adds a traditional Chinese aesthetic while providing privacy.

房屋木梁和支架上通常精雕细琢,雕刻着花卉图案、神话动物或龙凤等吉祥符号,象征着财富、庇佑和好运。门窗通常装饰有格子图案,具有复杂的几何或花卉图案。通常窗户后面都设有红纸或木屏风,这既增添了中国传统美感保护了个人隐私。

Ma Family Compound

The facades of many of these houses are adorned with stone carvings that reflect the status and wealth of the families who once lived there. These carvings often depict scenes of daily life, religious motifs, or symbols of prosperity and longevity, such as cranes, peonies, and dragons. The doorways of these old houses are often framed with large stone lintels engraved with auspicious characters or symbols. The thresholds (the wooden bar across the entrance) are usually raised, which in Chinese culture is believed to prevent evil spirits from entering the house. High thresholds also represents the high social status. Stone lintels are horizontal architectural elements placed above doors or windows, designed to bear the load of the structure above them. In traditional Chinese architecture, especially in cities like Pingyao, stone lintels often served both a structural and decorative purpose.

许多这种房子的外墙都装饰着石雕,反映了曾经居住在那里的家庭的地位和财富。这些雕刻通常描绘日常生活场景、宗教图案或例如如鹤、牡丹和龙等繁荣和长寿的象征。这些老房子的门房上方镶有大石楣,上面刻有吉祥的文字或符号。在中国文化中,大户人家的门槛都特别高代表着更高的社会地位。人们也认为这样可以防止恶灵进入房子。石楣是放置在门或窗上方的水平建筑元素,作用是承受上方结构的重量。在中国传统建筑中,尤其是在平遥这样的城市,石楣通常既起到构造又起到装饰作用。

When the dragon and phoenix are carved as round stone reliefs and placed on both sides of a doorway, they together represent a harmonious balance of yin and yang, the two complementary forces in Chinese cosmology. This balance is seen as essential for maintaining a harmonious home and ensuring a prosperous life for the inhabitants.

当龙和凤被雕刻成圆形浮雕并放置在门的两侧时,它们共同代表着阴阳之间的和谐平衡,阴阳是道家宇宙观中两种互补的力量。这种平衡被视为维持家庭和谐和确保居民生活富足的必要条件。

Dui lian (对联), or couplets, are traditional Chinese poetic inscriptions that are often written on the red papers and displayed on the both sides of doorways of homes, temples, and other important buildings. It is the traditional Chinese culture that is gradually forgotten by new generations.In Pingyao, I can find them on the doorways of many of the old houses. The content of dui lian often reflects the values, aspirations, and beliefs of the homeowner. They are traditionally written in classical Chinese and composed with strict attention to balance and symmetry in both meaning and tone. For example the dui lian in this photo represents prosperity and harmony of living in the houses for many years. If foreign tourists want to learn Chinese culture during the visit, it is important to learn Chinese character and the language first.

对联是中国传统诗文的一种文化形式,对联通常隽写在红纸上,贴在家里、寺庙和其他重要建筑的门口两侧。这种中国传统文化正逐渐被新一代人遗忘。在平遥我在很多老房子的门口都看到了对联。对联的内容往往反映了房主的价值观、愿望和信仰。对联传统上用文言文书写,在含义和语调上都严格注重平衡和对称。例如,这张照片中的对联代表着多年来住在房子里的繁荣与和谐。如果各国游客想在游览期间了解中国文化,那么首先学习汉字和语言是及其重要的。

In the traditional old houses of Pingyao, the spaces above windows often feature paintings and poetry that serve both decorative and cultural purposes. These artistic elements reflect the aesthetic tastes, values, and intellectual pursuits of the homeowners, while also incorporating symbols meant to bring good fortune and harmony to the household. In ancient China, poetry and painting were considered the pinnacle of scholarly achievement and refined taste. The presence of these artistic elements above the windows of old houses in Pingyao indicates the cultural sophistication of the residents or owners. Displaying poetic couplets or paintings was a way for the homeowner to showcase their literary and artistic sensibilities, as these forms of art were deeply admired in traditional Chinese society.

平遥的传统老房子里,窗户上方的一片空间通常以绘画和诗歌为特色,既具有装饰作用,又具有文化意义。这些艺术元素反映了房主的审美、价值观和知识追求,同时也融入了为家庭带来好运和和谐的象征。在中国古代,诗歌和绘画被认为是学术成就和高雅品味的顶峰。平遥老房子窗户上方的这些艺术元素表明了大院主人的文化修养。在传统中国社会中诗词曲赋深受文人推崇,窗上展示诗句或绘画亦是房主展示其文才和艺术观的一种方式。

The poem ‘Mansion in the Bamboo Forest’ in this photo is written by one of the great poets of the Tang Dynasty, Wang Wei.

Alone, I sit in the bamboo forest,
Playing my zither, then humming along.
Deep in the forest, no one knows I’m here,
Only the bright moon comes to shine on me.

Wang Wei’s poetry often reflects his Buddhist beliefs, particularly in the idea of quiet reflection and the search for enlightenment through detachment from material concerns. The serene solitude of the bamboo forest, where he communes with nature and the moon, suggests an ideal state of meditative tranquility.
The poem also touches on Taoist philosophy, which emphasizes living in accordance with nature and finding harmony in simplicity.

照片中的《竹里馆》是唐代大诗人王维的作品。

独坐幽篁里,弹琴复长啸。
深林人不知,明月来相照。

王维的诗作常常反映出他的佛教信仰,尤其是静思和通过脱离物质追求寻求启迪的理念。竹林的宁静与孤独,他与自然和月亮交流,暗示着一种理想的冥想宁静状态。这首诗还涉及道家哲学,强调顺应自然,在朴素中寻找和谐。

In Pingyao, I noticed that many of the old houses and shops throughout the ancient city still hang red lanterns as part of their traditional decor. These lanterns are typically placed above doorways or at the entrance to homes and shops or in courtyards. In Chinese culture, the color red is associated with good fortune, joy, and prosperity. Red lanterns are believed to attract good luck to the home and ward off misfortune. They are often hung during significant occasions, such as festivals, weddings, or the Lunar New Year, to invite happiness and success into the household.

在平遥,我发现古城里许多老房子和商店仍然挂着红灯笼。作为传统装饰的一部分这些灯笼通常挂在家门口或庭院里。在中国文化中,红色与好运、欢乐和繁荣有关。人们相信红灯笼能给家里带来好运,避开厄运。通常在节日、婚礼或农历新年等重要场合人们会挂上红灯笼,以祈求幸福和成功。

The well-preserved attic architecture in the old houses of Pingyao reflects traditional Chinese design principles. The structural framework of attics in Pingyao’s old houses is primarily composed of wood, reflecting traditional Chinese timber construction techniques. The use of wooden beams, posts, and brackets was essential for building upper floors and attics, as timber was both sturdy and flexible, ideal for withstanding the weight of the roof and additional stories. Interlocking joinery techniques were used without nails, relying on precise carpentry to ensure the attic’s structural integrity. These techniques allowed for the natural expansion and contraction of wood, making the buildings more resistant to weather changes. It is one of the greatest innovations in the history of Chinese traditional architecture.

平遥古民居保存完好的阁楼建筑体现了中国传统的设计思路。平遥古民居阁楼的结构框架主要由木材构成,体现了中国传统的木结构建筑技术。木梁、木柱和木托架是建造上层和阁楼的必备材料,木材既坚固又柔韧,非常适合承受屋顶和额外楼层的重量。阁楼采用榫卯技术,无需使用钉子,仅依靠精确的木工连接来确保结构的完整性。这种技术允许木材自然膨胀和收缩,使建筑物更能抵抗天气变化。这也是中国传统建筑史上最伟大的创新之一。

The roof structure often featured gabled roofs (硬山顶) or hipped roofs (悬山顶). The sloping roofs of traditional Chinese architecture created enough height for an attic space while maintaining the overall aesthetic harmony of the building. The eaves of the roof often extended outward from the attic, creating an overhang that protected the walls from rain and provided shade. In Pingyao’s old houses, these extended eaves were not only functional but also served as decorative elements, with elaborate carvings or tiled patterns beneath them. The use of decorative wooden brackets known as dougong (斗拱) is a prominent feature in the attics of traditional Chinese houses. These brackets were placed beneath the eaves or supporting the beams of the attic, helping distribute the weight of the roof while adding visual interest.
In Pingyao’s old houses, dougong elements were often intricately carved with symbolic motifs such as dragons, flowers, or clouds, enhancing the attic’s aesthetic appeal and imbuing the architecture with cultural significance.

屋顶结构通常为硬山顶或悬山顶。中国传统建筑的斜屋顶为阁楼空间创造了足够的高度,同时保持了建筑整体的美学和谐。屋檐通常从阁楼向外延伸,形成一个悬垂部分,保护墙壁免受雨水侵袭并提供遮荫。在平遥的古民居中,这些延伸的屋檐不仅具有实用性,而且作为装饰元素,其下方有精美的雕刻或瓷砖图案。使用装饰性木制支架(斗拱)是中国传统民居阁楼的一大特色。这些支架放置在屋檐下或支撑阁楼的横梁,有助于分散屋顶的重量,同时增加视觉趣味。在平遥的古民居中,斗拱元素通常精雕细琢,雕刻有龙、花或云等象征性图案,增强了阁楼的美感,赋予了建筑文化意义。

In some wealthier homes, the attic might include a small balcony or viewing platform extending from the upper floor. These platforms, often facing the courtyard, allowed residents to enjoy views of the surrounding landscape. In traditional Chinese society, the height of a building was often associated with social status. The inclusion of an attic or upper story was a sign of wealth and prestige, as not every family could afford to build multi-level homes. The attics of old Pingyao houses combine practical functionality with rich cultural symbolism and aesthetic beauty. Built using traditional Chinese timber construction techniques, these attics serve as important extensions of the home, providing additional space for storage and living.

在一些富户的住宅中,阁楼也包括从上层延伸的小阳台或观景台。这些平台通常面向庭院,让居民可以欣赏周围的景观。在传统的中国社会中因为并非每个家庭都能负担得起建造多层住宅,建筑的高度通常与社会地位有关。阁楼或向上的楼层是财富和声望的象征。平遥古民居的阁楼将实用功能与丰富的文化象征和美学融为一体。这些阁楼采用中国传统的木结构建筑技术建造,是住宅的重要延伸,为储藏、居住提供了额外的空间。

Er Lang Temple

Pingyao also boasts a wealth of temples and civic buildings for visit. Er Lang Temple, dedicated to the Chinese deity Er Lang Shen is a traditional Taoist temple. Er Lang Shen is a powerful deity in Chinese folklore, known as the God of Justice or a divine warrior. He is usually depicted as a man with three eyes, the third eye located in the middle of his forehead, symbolizing his spiritual insight and ability to see through deception. The main entrance to the Er Lang Temple features an ornate gate, flanked by stone lions which is a frequently used Chinese architecture element. Above the gate, there is a blue plaque with the temple’s name in traditional Chinese calligraphy.

除了民宅平遥还有大量的寺庙和公共建筑供游客参观。图中的二郎庙是传统的道教寺庙。 二郎神是中国民间传说中的强大神灵,被称为正义之神。他被描绘成拥有三只眼睛的躯体,第三只眼睛位于额头的中间,象征着洞察一切的能力。 二郎庙的主入口有一个华丽的大门,两侧装饰的是石狮子,这是一种经常使用的中国建筑元素。大门上方有一个蓝色牌匾,上面以传统的中国书法镌刻出寺庙的名称。

The main hall of an Er Lang Temple houses a large statue of Er Lang Shen, often in a central position, surrounded by other deities or Taoist figures. Traditional Chinese temple architecture often includes a courtyard with side halls dedicated to other deities, including Taoist immortals, ancestral figures, or other protective gods. Inside the courtyard, a large incense burner is placed for worshipers to make offerings of incense. The burner is often made of bronze or stone, and feature intricate designs such as dragons. Such kind of incense burner can always be found in the Chinese temple.

二郎庙的主厅中央位置立者二郎神的大雕像,周围是其他神灵或道教人物。中国传统的寺庙建筑通常包括一个庭院,以及敬奉包括道教的神仙或其他保护性神的侧厅。在庭院内放置了一个大的香炉,信徒们在这里进行供奉或者上香。这种香炉采用龙形的复杂的设计通常由青铜或石头制成。在中国的寺庙中这种香炉可以说随处可见。

Chenghuang temple

Another traditional Chinese temple is the Chenghuang temple, dedicated to a deity responsible for protecting the city and its inhabitants. Such similar Temples of the City God can be found in many Chinese towns and cities but the temple in Pingyao is one of the most well-preserved and richly decorated examples of this type of temple, reflecting the importance of the City God in traditional Chinese urban life.

另一座中国城市传统的庙宇是城隍庙,这里供奉着守护城市和城中居民的神灵。中国许多城镇都有类似的城隍庙,但平遥城隍庙是此类庙宇中保存最完好、装饰最华丽的,它也反映了城隍在中国古代传统城市生活中的重要性。

The temple’s entrance is called mountain gate. It is the first point of entry and often a symbol of the boundary between the secular world and the sacred realm. The gate is decorated with stone carvings or calligraphy. Guardian statues, often of deities or mythical creatures like turtle and snake stand by the entrance to ward off evil spirits and protect the sanctity of the temple.

寺庙的入口称为山门。它是进入寺庙的第一道门,通常也是世俗世界和神域之间的界限。山门上装饰着石雕或书法。入口处矗立着通常是例如龙神龟蛇等神灵或神话生物的守护神像,以驱赶邪灵并保护寺庙的神圣性。

A large incense burner is positioned outside the main hall. Worshipers place sticks of incense here while praying for protection, good fortune, and justice from the City God. Inside the main hall, there is an altar where offerings such as fruit, flowers, and paper money are placed before the City God. Like many traditional Chinese temples, the Chenghuang temple adheres to feng shui principles, ensuring that the flow of energy (which is called qi) is harmonious throughout the temple complex. The temple is typically oriented to align with the city’s key geographical features, such as rivers or mountains, to enhance its spiritual efficacy. The layout of the buildings, doorways, and altars is designed to ensure a balance of yin and yang, promoting health, harmony, and protection for the city’s inhabitants.

大殿外安置着一个大香炉。信徒们在这里焚香,祈求城隍保佑和好运势。大殿内有一座祭坛,供奉城隍的供品包括水果、鲜花和纸钱。与许多中国传统寺庙一样,城隍庙遵循风水原则,确保整个寺庙建筑群的能量(称为气)流动和谐。寺庙的朝向通常与城市的主要地理特征(如河流或山脉)保持一致,以增强其精神功效。建筑物、门道和祭坛的布局确保阴阳平衡,促进城市居民的健康和谐。

When I walked in the Chinese old cities or China towns all through the world, I can always see this kind of gate, called Paifang or Pailou, a traditional culture heritage. They are usually erected to serve as gateways marking the entrance to sacred or important spaces, such as temples and tombs. They are also commonly built in honor of historical figures or to celebrate events like military victories. The design of a Pai Fang include archways and multi-tiered structures with several roofed sections and pillars. The roof of the Pai Fang is often built in a traditional hip-and-gable (歇山顶) style, with upturned eaves, adding a graceful curve to the structure. These roofs can be made of glazed tiles or decorated with ceramic figurines of mythical animals like dragons or phoenixes. The Pai Fang’s pillars are an essential part of the structure. These pillars are often ornately carved with symbols of prosperity, longevity, or good fortune, such as dragons, cloud motifs, or auspicious plants. At the top of the Pai Fang, there is typically a horizontal plaque with an inscription, usually written in calligraphy.

当我漫步在中国古城或世界各地的唐人街时,总能看到这种牌坊或牌楼,这是一种非常传统的文化遗产。它们通常作为通往例如寺庙和陵墓等神圣或重要场地的入口,也常常是为了纪念历史人物或庆祝军事胜利等事件而建造。牌坊的设计包括拱门和多层结构,包括多层顶和柱子。牌坊的屋顶通常采用传统的歇山顶风格,带有上翘的屋檐,为建筑增添了优美的曲线。这些屋顶可以用釉面瓦片制成,也可以用龙或凤凰等神话动物的陶瓷雕像装饰。牌坊的柱子是该建筑的重要组成部分。这些柱子上通常雕刻着例如龙、云朵图案或吉祥植物等象征繁荣、长寿或好运的华丽图案。牌坊顶部有一块横匾,上面通常用传统书法书写铭文。

The pai fang in the diagram above marks the entrance of the Confucian Temple. It is one of the oldest and largest surviving Confucian temples in China, reflecting the deep reverence for Confucian ideals in the region. It dates back to the Northern Wei Dynasty (386–534 AD) and has been expanded and renovated throughout the centuries. The layout of a Confucian temple also follows a central axis design, with buildings arranged symmetrically along this axis to symbolize balance and harmony, core principles of Confucian thought.

上图的牌坊就是文庙的入口。它是中国现存最古老规模最大的文庙之一,反映了该地区对儒家思想的崇敬。它的历史可以追溯到北魏(公元386-534年),几个世纪以来不断扩建和修缮。文庙的布局也采用中轴线设计,建筑物沿轴线对称排列,象征着平衡与和谐,这是儒家的核心思想。

Confucian temples

The Lingxing Gate is a symbolic gateway in Confucian temples. The gate is named after a star and symbolizes the connection between heaven and Confucian ideals. Passing through this gate signifies entering a place of elevated thought and moral instruction. The gate is typically constructed in an ornate style with wood carvings and painted beams that reflect the temple’s importance as a center of education.

棂星门是文庙的标志性大门。棂星门以一颗上天的星命名,象征着天道与儒家理想的联系。穿过这扇门意味着进入一个崇高的思想和道德教育之地。棂星门通常采用华丽的风格建造,带有木雕和彩绘横梁,反映了文庙作为当地教育中心的重要性。

The Dacheng Hall, or Hall of Great Accomplishment, is the central and most important building in the temple complex. It is dedicated to Confucius and his 72 disciples, who played a key role in spreading his teachings. The hall is often the site of ceremonies and sacrificial offerings made to honor Confucius. Many people think that Chinese don’t believe in any religions however the ideas of Confucius has affected Chinese for thousands of years and can be regarded as a religion. Confucius’s ideas laid the foundation for Confucianism, a system of thought that has profoundly shaped Chinese culture, politics, and education for over two millennia. His teachings focus on ethics, morality, social harmony, and the proper conduct of individuals within society. Confucius emphasized the importance of personal development through education and self-cultivation, as well as the need for a well-ordered society governed by virtuous leaders.

大成殿是文庙建筑群的中心和最重要的建筑。它供奉孔子和他的72位弟子,他们在传播孔子的教义方面发挥了关键作用。大成殿经常是举行纪念孔子的仪式和祭祀的场所。很多人认为中国人不信仰任何宗教,但孔子的思想影响了中国人几千年,儒家思想在中国可以被视为一种宗教。孔子的理论为儒家思想奠定了基础。儒家思想体系在两千多年的时间里在各方面都深刻地影响了中国文化、政治和教育。他的教义注重伦理、道德、社会和谐以及个人在社会中的正确行为。孔子强调通过教育和自我修养实现个人发展的重要性,以及由有德之士统治有序社会的必要性。

Inside the hall, there is a large statue of Confucius, along with smaller statues of his followers or tablets inscribed with their names. The statue often portrays Confucius seated in a dignified manner, symbolizing wisdom and authority. The hall is often ornately decorated with calligraphy, wood carvings, and paintings that reflect Confucian ideals such as filial piety (孝), benevolence (仁), and righteousness (义). In front of Confucius’ statue, there is an altar where offerings such as fruits, incense, and wine are placed. These offerings are part of the rituals that honor Confucius and show respect for his teachings.

大殿内有孔子大塑像,以及一些刻有孔子弟子名字的小塑像。塑像上孔子以庄严的姿态端坐,象征智慧和权威。殿内装饰华丽,有各种书法作品、木雕和绘画,反映孝、仁、义等儒家思想。孔子塑像前有祭坛,供奉着水果、熏香、清酒等祭品。这些祭品是纪念孔子和尊重其教诲的仪式的一部分。

The Minglun Hall, or Hall of Moral Enlightenment, is a key feature of many Confucian temples. This building is used for lectures, debates, and the study of Confucian classics. The hall is often designed with simple elegance, reflecting the Confucian values of moderation and practicality. Inside, scholars and students would gather to discuss the Five Classics and Four Books, foundational texts in Confucian thought. The Confucian temple also served as a school or academy for scholars in the ancient times. Students and officials would come to study the Confucian texts, discuss philosophy, and prepare for the Imperial Civil Service Examinations (科举), which were based on Confucian teachings.

明伦堂是许多文庙都有的特色建筑。这座建筑用于讲学、辩论和研究儒家经典。大厅通常设计简洁优雅,反映了儒家适度和实用的价值观。在里面学者和学生会聚集在一起讨论四书五经等儒家思想的基础文献。文庙也是古代的学院。学生和官员会来这里学习儒家经典,讨论哲学,并为以儒家教义为科举做准备。

Temple of the Martial God

In Chinese history, the Confucian Temple (Wen Miao) and the Temple of the Martial God (Wu Miao) are present in every ancient city. The Wu Miao in Pingyao is dedicated to Guan Yu, a legendary general from the Three Kingdoms period (220–280 AD) who has been deified as a symbol of loyalty, righteousness, and bravery in Chinese culture. The temple reflects the deep respect for Guan Yu as a martial deity who protects the people and upholds justice, making it an important cultural and religious site in Pingyao. The dui lian at the entrance is very famous which means Confucious and Guanyu are both saints who are born in the west and east of Tai Hang mountains and the saint of liberal art Confucious wrote the book ‘Chunqiu’ and the saint of martial art Guanyu read the book ‘Chunqiu’ .

中国历史上,每座古城都有文庙和武庙。平遥武庙供奉关羽,他是三国时期的一位传奇将军,在中国文化中被尊为忠诚、正义和勇敢的象征。这座庙宇反映了人们对关羽作为保护人民和主持正义的武神的深深敬意,使它成为平遥重要的文化和宗教场所。入口处的对联非常有名将孔子和关羽并列提出, 山别东西前夫子后夫子,圣分文武著春秋读春秋 。

Upon passing through the gate, visitors enter a spacious front courtyard, a common feature in Chinese temples. This open space serves both as a ceremonial area and a place for worshippers to gather before approaching the inner sanctum. The courtyard is usually lined with stone steles, statues, or altars where offerings of incense, fruits, and wine can be made to Guan Yu.

穿过大门,游客进入宽敞的前院,这种构造在可谓是司空见惯。这片开放空间既是举行仪式的地方,也是信徒在进入内殿之前聚集的地方。庭院里通常排列着石碑、雕像或祭坛,人们可以在那里向关羽供奉通常向神敬奉的香、水果和酒。

The main hall of the Wu Miao is dedicated to Guan Yu himself. Inside, a grand vivid statue of Guan Yu is the central focus of worship. The general is depicted in his traditional green martial attire. The hall features richly decorated beams, intricate wood carvings. Guan Yu is one of the most famous character in the novel of ‘The Romance of three kingdom’. In the novel his steadfast loyalty to his sworn brothers Liu Bei and Zhang Fei during the turbulent Three Kingdoms period made him a symbol of unwavering fidelity.

武庙主殿供奉着关羽本人。殿内中央关羽的塑像栩栩如生。关将军身着传统的绿色武服。殿内横梁装饰华丽,木雕精巧,壁画生动逼真。关羽是小说《三国演义》中最著名的人物之一。在小说中动荡的三国时期,玉可碎而不可损其白,竹可破而不可毁其节,他对结拜兄弟刘备和张飞的忠厚情谊使他成为忠义的化身。

‘The Romance of three kingdom’ is well-known to every Chinese and also affect my life and values. It is my favorite book. In modern times, Guan Yu is also worshipped as a guardian deity of wealth and is revered by businesspeople for his loyalty and honesty. At the side hall, the statues of Zhang Fei and Zhao Yun are set up. Guan Yu and they are called Five Tiger Generals in the novel. These five legendary warriors were known for their incredible loyalty, martial prowess, and contributions to Liu Bei’s military campaigns. Their stories, popularized through “Romance of the Three Kingdoms,” have become an integral part of Chinese folklore.

《三国演义》是每个中国人都熟悉的一本书,它也影响了我的生活和价值观。这也是我最喜欢的书。现代,关羽也被崇拜为财富的守护神,商界人士因其信义而特别尊崇他。在侧厅,竖立着张飞和赵云的雕像。关羽和他们在小说中被称为五虎将。这五位传奇大将以其忠诚、极高的武艺和对刘备军事战役的贡献而闻名于世。他们的轶闻也通过《三国演义》广为流传,已成为中国民间传说不可或缺的一部分。

Rishengchang Draft Bank

Pingyao is very important in the Chinese history of finance. One of the most significant structures in the ancient city is the Rishengchang Draft Bank, founded in 1823, which was the first private financial institution in China. This building served as the precursor to modern banks, pioneering the use of draft remittances, allowing merchants to transfer large sums of money safely across China. The bank’s offices are laid out like a fortress, with thick walls and heavy doors for security, underscoring the importance of commerce in Pingyao’s history. Visitors do not need to pay anything visiting the old city but it is necessary to buy tickets for visiting this kind of museum.

平遥在中国金融史上占有重要地位。古城中最重要的建筑之一是日升昌票号,成立于1823年,是中国第一家私人金融机构。这座建筑是现代银行的前身,率先使用汇票,使商人能够安全地将大笔资金转移到中国各地。银行的办公室布局像一座堡垒,墙壁厚重,门扉沉重,以保证安全,凸显了商业在平遥历史上的重要性。游客参观古城不需要支付任何费用,但参观这种博物馆则需要购买门票。

Today, the Rishengchang Bank has been transformed into a museum, allowing visitors to explore the site where China’s first draft banking system began. The museum provides detailed displays about the bank’s history, operations, and the broader role it played in the development of commerce and banking in China. In the rooms, I could see the old ledgers, drafts, and accounting books used by the bank’s clerks and the traditional abacuses and tools used in money counting and accounting. Before I visited here, I have never known that this city has such an important status in the monetary system of Chinese history.

如今,日升昌钱庄已改建成博物馆,让游客可以探索了解中国第一个票号银行制度的发源地。博物馆详细展示了该银行的历史、运营以及它在中国商业和银行业发展中发挥的更广泛作用。在房间里,我可以看到银行职员使用的旧账簿、票号和会计账簿,以及用于点钞和记账的传统算盘和工具。在我游览之前,我从不知道这座城市在中国历史货币体系中占有如此重要的地位。

Pingyao County Government Office

After I visited the residential houses and the religious buildings, I also visited the Pingyao County Government Office. It was built during the Northern Song Dynasty and in continuous use for nearly 600 years, it served as the administrative and judicial center of Pingyao County. The Xian Ya (county office) not only represents traditional Chinese governance but also offers valuable insights into the workings of local government, law enforcement, and the justice system during ancient China.

参观完民居和宗教建筑后,我还参观了平遥县衙。它建于北宋时期,连续使用了近600年,是平遥县的行政和司法中心。县衙不仅代表了中国传统的政府治理制度,而且还为游客了解古代地方政府、执法和司法系统的运作提供了宝贵的见解。

The Pingyao County Government Office was the official workplace of the county magistrate, who was the highest local official appointed by the imperial government. This magistrate was responsible for a variety of functions, including maintaining law and order, collecting taxes, administering justice, and managing public works within the county. The magistrate’s office was a crucial link between the central government and the local population.

平遥县衙是县令的官方办公地点,县令是朝廷任命的当地最高地方官员。县令负责多种职能,包括维持法律和秩序、征收税款、执行司法、管理县内的公共工程。县衙是中央政府与当地民众之间的重要纽带。

One of the most notable parts of the Xian Ya is the Judicial Hall, where the magistrate presided over trials and administered justice. This hall was the core of the judicial functions of the office, where criminal cases, civil disputes, and other legal matters were heard. The hall is decorated with wooden plaques and couplets emphasizing justice, fairness, and the moral integrity expected of the magistrate. The magistrate’s seat, elevated to convey authority, was positioned in the center of the hall, with defendants and plaintiffs facing him. To the side of the Judicial Hall are displays of torture instruments and other tools used in the judicial process. Although harsh by modern standards, these instruments were common in the history of China and were used to extract confessions or enforce punishments.

县衙最引人注目的部分就是判官堂,县令在此主持并执行正义。该堂是官署司法职能的核心,审理刑事案件、民事纠纷和其他法律事务都在此处。大厅装饰有木匾和对联,强调公正公平和县令应有的道德操守。县令的座位位于大厅中央,位置更高以传达权威,被告和原告在下方面对着知县。判官堂的一侧展示了司法过程中使用的刑具和其他工具。虽然以现代标准来看这些工具很严酷,但在中国历史上这些工具很常见,一般用于逼供或执行惩罚。

Behind the judicial and administrative sections of the compound is the residential area where the magistrate and his family lived. This area is more private and secluded, reflecting the separation between the official’s public duties and personal life. The residential quarters are simple yet elegant, with traditional Chinese furniture, and garden spaces that offer a serene atmosphere for the magistrate to relax.

司法和行政部门的后堂是县令及其家人居住的住宅区。这个区域更加私密和隐蔽,体现了官员的公务和个人生活的分离。住宅区简朴而优雅,配有传统中式家具和花园,为县令提供了宁静的氛围,供其放松身心。

Along Pingyao’s main streets, the centuries-old merchant shops remain largely unchanged. Many of these buildings have been repurposed as museums, restaurants, or souvenir shops, but they retain the architectural features of traditional Chinese businesses like wooden facades, stone doorways, and intricate roof designs. These shops evoke the bustling trade atmosphere that once filled Pingyao’s streets. There are also some small alleys are often quiet, lined with old stone walls, creating an atmosphere that feels largely untouched by time. Walking through these alleys provides a deeper sense of the town’s structure, reflecting the urban planning and lifestyle of the past.

沿着平遥的主要街道,百年历史的店面很多基本保持原样。这些建筑中有许多已被改建为博物馆、餐馆或纪念品商店,但它们仍然保留了如木质门面和复杂的屋顶设计等中国传统商业建筑的特色。这些商店令人想起了曾经遍布平遥街道的繁华商业氛围。其实城中还有一些很安静的小巷,两旁是古老的石墙,营造出一种悠久的氛围。漫步在这些小巷中,游客可以更深入地了解城市的布局以及过去的城市规划和生活方式。

This is quite a meaningful trip for me. Nowadays most of the old buildings and traditions in China have been destroyed. However, I could know more deeply about Chinese history, culture, and old architectures through deploying the essence of this ancient city where time seems to stand still. The echoes of history reverberate through the stone-paved streets, the towers, and the alleys, all of which tell the story of Pingyao’s grandeur and its pivotal role in China’s past. Each step here has brought me closer to understanding the cultural and architectural heritage.

对我来说,这是一次意义非凡的旅行。如今中国大多数古老的建筑和旧传统已不复存在。然而通过探索这座仿佛穿越时空的古城,我却可以更深入地了解中国的历史文化和古老的建筑。旧日的回声回荡在石板街道、塔楼和小巷中,所有这些都在讲述了平遥的灿烂过去及其在中国历史上的关键作用。在这里踏出的每一步都让我更进一步地了解了平遥的文化和建筑遗产。

As I reflected on the quiet beauty of the courtyard houses, the intricate details of the pai fang, and the centuries-old traditions that still thrive in this town, I realized that Pingyao is more than just a destination—it’s a journey of immersing in the old ways of life which cultural influence of thousands of years is deeply rooted in every corner of this city. The well conserved city wall, the flicker of red lanterns, and the timeless elegance of the architecture will always leave an indelible mark on my memories.

当我如今回想起平遥四合院的静谧之美、牌坊的精致细节以及从古至今延续百年的传统时,不禁感概到这不仅是一次走马观花的旅行—它更像是一次体验古老生活的丰富经历,千年的文化影响深深扎根于这座城市的每个角落。保存完好的城墙、风中摇曳的红灯笼和古朴的建筑将永远在我的记忆中留下一抹挥之不去的痕迹。



Exploring Ayutthaya Historical Park: A Journey into Thai Heritage

探索泰国文化遗产大城府历史公园

Ayutthaya, the old capital of the Kingdom of Siam, stands as a testament to the grandeur and historical significance of Southeast Asia’s rich culture. Ayutthaya flourished as a major trading hub from the 14th to the 18th century, drawing merchants from all corners of the world. Today, the city is celebrated for its remarkable ruins and ancient temples, which have been meticulously preserved within the Ayutthaya Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors to Ayutthaya are transported back in that glorious time as they explore the intricately designed wats, towering prangs, and serene Buddha statues that dot the landscape.

暹罗王国的旧都大城府见证了东南亚丰富的文化和宏伟的历史。这座城市曾经作为从14世纪到18世纪的主要贸易中心蓬勃发展吸引了来自世界各地的商人。如今这座城市因其巨大的历史遗迹和古老的寺庙而闻名,这些遗址和寺庙在联合国教科文组织世界遗产的大城府历史公园内被精心保存。当游客徜徉在精心设计的寺庙群,高耸的尖塔和宁静的佛陀雕像中时,仿佛回到了那个辉煌的时代。

I took the train connecting Bangkok to Chiang Mai from Bang Sue Station in Bangkok to the Ayutthaya train station on December 4th, 2023. There is no highspeed train in Thailand. The speed of train is around 80-90km/ hour and each tram of the train has many open windows for ventilation. It is a short trip taking around 1.5 hours.

我于2023年12月4日从曼谷的Bang Sue 火车站乘坐连接曼谷到清迈的火车抵达大城府火车站。泰国没有高速火车。普通火车的速度约为每小时80-90公里,火车的每节列车都有许多开放式的通风窗口。这是一段大约需要1.5小时的短途旅行。

Ayutthaya train station is very small station. Upon arrival, visitors can easily access the historical sites, either by renting a bicycle, or hiring a tuk-tuk stopped in front of the station. Tuk-tuks are three-wheeled motorized vehicles, usually in green or red colors, and typically open-air. It is a popular and iconic mode of transportation in Ayutthaya, offering a convenient and enjoyable way to explore this historic park.

大城府火车站是一座很小的车站。到达后游客可以通过租用自行车或者雇用一辆停在火车站前的突突车便可轻松抵达历史遗址。突突车是一种通常是绿色或红色敞篷的人力三轮车。这是大城府的一种流行标志性的交通方式,为游客提供了一种方便而愉快的方式来探索这座历史悠久的遗址公园。

Ayutthaya Historical Park represents the history of the ancient city of Ayutthaya. Founded in 1350 by King U Thong, Ayutthaya swiftly became the capital of the Kingdom of Siam and one of the most prosperous cities in Southeast Asia. For over four centuries, it thrived as a political, economic, and cultural hub until its destruction by the Burmese army in 1767. After that, the capital was moved to Bangkok. This is the entrance of the park, and the visitors need to pay 200 Baht to visit four major attractions in this park.

大城府历史公园代表了这座古城的历史。大城府由乌通国王于1350年建立,之后迅速成为暹罗王国的首都,它也是当时东南亚最繁荣的城市。四个世纪以来,它一直是一个政治经济和文化枢纽,直到1767年被缅甸军队彻底摧毁。此后泰国首都就搬到了曼谷。这里是公园的入口,游客需要支付200泰铢才能参观公园的四个主要景点。

Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, Ayutthaya Historical Park includes the ruins of this once-magnificent city, offering visitors a glimpse into its storied past. The park covers an area of approximately 289 hectares and includes a multitude of impressive temples, palaces, and monuments, reflecting a blend of various architectural styles influenced by different cultures such as Khmer, Sukhothai, and Lopburi.

大城府历史公园在1991年联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录,这个曾经无比辉煌的城市遗址如今另游客能够一瞥它曾经的历史。该公园覆盖了大约289公顷的区域,其中包括许多令人印象深刻的寺庙,宫殿和古迹,反映了受包括高棉,素可泰等不同文化影响的各种建筑风格的融合。

The visual impact of my first sight of these relics was striking. The towering prangs and chedis, though weathered by time, stand majestically against the blue sky, their intricate details still visible despite centuries of exposure to the air. The golden hues of sunlight play on the ancient bricks and stone, casting long shadows that add to the sense of timelessness. I felt that I took a time machine and travelled back to the past.

看到这些文物的第一眼着实令人震撼。高耸的主塔和周围的小尖塔虽然随着时间的流逝而风化,但仍朝蓝天高傲矗立。尽管几个世纪漫长的磨损,它们表面的错综复杂的雕刻细节仍然可见。金色的晨光照耀在古老的砖石上,修长的阴影留下一种永恒的感觉让我觉得我仿佛乘坐时间机器回到了几百年之前的过去。

Wat Mahathat

The first place I visited was the Wat Mahathat, also known as the Temple of the Great Relic. It was a royal monastery and one of the most important temples in Ayutthaya. It was established during the reign of King Borommaracha I (1370-1388). It is characteristic of Khmer-style architecture.

我参观的第一个地方是马哈特寺(Wat Mahathat),也称为大遗物寺庙。这是一座皇家寺庙,也是大城府中最重要的寺庙之一。它是在国王Borommaracha 一世(1370-1388)统治期间建立的,也是经典的高棉风格建筑。

The iconic Buddha head entwined in tree roots at Wat Mahathat caught my eyes immediately, a poignant symbol of the enduring spirit of the place. This unique feature originated during the Burmese invasion when the temple was destroyed, and the head fell to the ground, later embraced by the tree’s roots.

这座寺庙里缠绕在树根中的标志性佛陀头立即吸引了我的目光,它也是这个地方历史悠久长存的象征。这一独特的景观起源于缅甸入侵时期,当寺庙被摧毁时,佛陀头部落在地面上,后来被树根所包围。

Each Buddha statue scattered throughout Ayutthaya Historical Park tells a story, reflecting different styles, periods, and the deep devotion of the people who created them. Ayutthaya style of Buddha statue combines elements of Sukhothai and Khmer styles. These statues often have a broad, smiling face and a distinctive flame-like finial atop the head. For me, the unique element of Buddhism was the most attractive point to be explored when travelling in Thailand.

每个散布在大城府历史公园中的佛陀雕像都讲述了一个故事,它们也反映了创造者的不同风格以及对佛教深厚的笃信精神。这里佛陀雕像的风格结合了素可泰和高棉的建筑元素。这些雕像通常具有宽阔的笑脸,头顶上有特别的火焰般的端饰。对我来说独特的佛教元素是泰国旅游最有吸引力的地方。

The prangs of Ayutthaya are among the most distinctive architectural elements in the ancient city. These prangs are characterized by their tall, tower-like structure, often built on a square or rectangular base. The surfaces of prangs are often decorated with intricate stucco work, featuring floral patterns, mythical creatures, and scenes from Buddhist mythology.

图中这种高塔是古城最独特的建筑元素之一。这些建筑的特征是它们高大的塔式结构,通常建在正方形或矩形底座上。它们的表面通常装饰有包括花卉图案,神话生物和佛教神话中的场景等复杂的灰泥制品。

Wat Ratchaburana

The prangs of Ayutthaya are not just architectural wonders but also reflections of the rich cultural heritage and religious devotion of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Wat Ratchaburana was one of the most impressive temple in this park. The prang at Wat Ratchaburana is one of the best-preserved in Ayutthaya. Wat Ratchaburana was established by King Borommaracha II in 1424 to honor his two elder brothers, Chao Ai Phraya and Chao Yi Phraya, who died in a duel for the throne.

大城府的高塔不仅是建筑奇观也是一种对Ayutthaya王国丰富文化遗产和宗教崇拜的传承。Ratchaburana寺庙是公园中最具有震撼力的寺庙之一。它的高塔也是这里保存最完好的。它是由Borommaracha 二世于1424年建立的,以纪念为了争夺王位决斗而死的两个哥哥Chao Ai Phraya和Chao Yi Phraya。

The prang is built in the traditional Khmer style, with a tall, tapering tower rising from a square base. It is adorned with stucco reliefs and ornamental details, showcasing the craftsmanship of the Ayutthayan artisans. The prang represents Mount Meru, the sacred mountain at the center of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. It serves as a spiritual axis connecting the earthly realm with the heavens. Standing before this prang, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and reverence. It dominates the landscape and serves as a visual and symbolic connection between the earthly and the divine.

图中的高塔以传统的高棉风格建造,是一座从正方形的底座上升而起的高锥塔。它装饰有灰泥的浮雕和众多建筑细节,展示了大城府工匠的工艺。这座高塔代表梅鲁山,它是印度教和佛教宇宙中心的圣山。也是将凡尘与高天神国联系起来的精神线。站在这个高塔之前,我不禁感到一丝敬畏和崇敬。它一览众世小,如同尘世与神之间的联系桥梁。

The prang of Wat Ratchaburana is adorned with a multitude of statues and sculptural elements that drew my attention when I climbed up the brick steps. I could see clearly the statues of dvarapalas. These statues are typically depicted in a standing position, holding weapons such as clubs or swords. They serve as protectors of the temple, warding off evil spirits and guarding the sacred space within. There are statues of devatas (deities) and thewada (celestial beings). These figures are often portrayed in elegant, flowing attire, with serene expressions and graceful poses. Devatas and thewadas represent divine beings who inhabit the celestial realms.

Ratchaburana寺庙的高塔还装饰着许多雕像和雕塑元素令人侧目,当我爬上砖制台阶时我可以清楚地看到德瓦拉帕拉斯的雕像。这些雕像通常以站立姿势呈现,手执拿着大棒或长剑等武器。他们充当圣殿的保护者,驱赶邪灵并守护着内在的神圣区域。这里还有devatas和Thewada的雕像。这些人物通常以优雅飘逸的服装造型进行描绘,有着镇静的表情和优美的姿势。 Devatas和Thewadas代表了居住在天神领域的神圣生物。

Ayutthaya Historical Park is super large. The lake in the center of Ayutthaya Historical Park is a tranquil and adds a natural element to the ancient city’s landscape. Surrounded by lush greenery and dotted with historical ruins, it is a good place to have a rest or stroll.

这个历史公园实在太大了。历史公园的中心有一个宁静的湖泊,在古城的历史景观中增添了自然的元素。周围都是郁郁葱葱的绿色植物,上面散布着历史遗迹,是休息或漫步的好地方。

Throne Halls

The Ayutthaya Palace has been destroyed totally in the war. Now I could only see the remnants of Throne Halls and ruins of residential areas. The whole area is covered by weeds. Standing among the ruins of the Ayutthaya Palace, I felt a profound sense of awe at the grandeur and historical transition of the ancient kingdom. The remnants evoke reflections on the speedy passage of time and the cruelty of wars.

大城府的王宫早已在战争中被彻底摧毁。现在我只能看到王座大厅废墟的残垣断壁。整个区域都被杂草覆盖。我站在这片废墟中,对古代王国的宏伟和历史变迁不由地深感敬畏。这些遗迹残骸令我感慨时间流逝的飞快和战争的残酷。

The Wat Phra Si Sanphet located within the palace grounds is well conserved fortunately. This temple served as the royal chapel. The temple was a central place for royal religious activities, highlighting the close connection between the monarchy and Buddhism.

位于宫殿区域内的Phra Si Sanphet寺所幸被完整保留。这座寺庙是皇家教堂,也是皇家宗教活动的中心地点,凸显泰国君主制与佛教之间的紧密联系。

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Established in the 14th century during the reign of King Ramathibodi I, it was part of the royal palace complex. Its three large chedis, which still stand today, housed the ashes of three Ayutthayan kings. The three large chedis perfectly aligned is the most impressive and iconic architectures in this historic park. The chedis are bell-shape with intricate stucco reliefs. They are surrounded by smaller stupas and other structures.

建立于14世纪拉马西博迪一世统治期间,这座寺庙是皇家宫殿的一部分。它的三个大尖塔(Chedis)如今仍然屹立不倒,分别保存了三个国王的骨灰。三个巨大的尖塔完美地对齐排列是这个历史悠久的公园中最令人印象深刻的建筑。这种大尖塔一般是钟形,装饰有复杂的灰泥浮雕。它们被较小的佛塔和其他建筑结构包围。

The architectural style of Ayutthaya is affected by both Sukhothai and Khmer. The Sukhothai architectures are characterized by the small stupas which are typically bell-shaped or in the form of miniature chedis. These structures mirror the design of the larger chedis but on a more modest scale. The stupas often feature detailed stucco reliefs depicting lotus motifs, mythological creatures, and religious motifs.

大城府的建筑风格受素可泰和高棉两种风格的影响。素可泰建筑的特征是这种钟形或类似于上图大尖塔(Chedis)形式的微型小佛塔。这些结构复制了的大尖塔(Chedis)的设计,但总体规模较小。这种佛塔经常呈现莲花图案,神话生物和宗教图案的细腻浮雕装饰。

Sukhothai is renowned for its elegant Buddha statues, characterized by a flame-like ushnisha (a protuberance on the top of the head symbolizing wisdom) and a serene, meditative expression. Ayutthayan Buddha statues often replicate the Sukhothai style, with smooth, flowing lines and a focus on the spiritual tranquility of the Buddha.

素可泰以其优雅的佛像而闻名,其特征是头顶上如同火焰般的象征着智慧的突起和冥思的表情。 大城府的佛像通常复制素可泰的风格,这里的佛像有着平滑流动的线条并且似乎全神专注于佛陀的精神宁静。

Some small stupas contain niches that once held votive tablets or small Buddha statues. These items were often placed as offerings or to gain spiritual merit. The small stupas are strategically placed around the larger chedis and main temple structures, contributing to the overall harmony and balance of the temple complex.

一些小佛塔还包含者收纳小佛陀雕像或者印有佛陀拓片的龛。这些物品通常被放置在这里以获得精神上的升华。这些小佛塔在建筑排列上一般布置在更大的尖塔和主庙宇周围,这有助于达到一种整体的和谐与平衡。

Visitors were able to take the time to closely inspect the small stupas scattered all around the historical park. Their intricate decorations and architectural details are best appreciated up close. They are typically bell-shaped, a common form in Thai Buddhist architecture. This shape symbolizes the union of heaven and earth. They have an octagonal base, representing stability and the foundation of the spiritual path. Intricate floral motifs, such as lotus flowers and vines, adorn the surfaces. The spire is typically multi-tiered, each tier representing the ascent through the realms of existence towards enlightenment. It often culminates in a small, gilded umbrella-like structure, symbolizing protection and honor.

游客可以花些时间仔细观察散布在历史公园各处的小型佛塔, 近距离欣赏它们精致的装饰和建筑细节。它们的整体轮廓通常是钟形的,这是泰国佛教建筑的常见形式,这种形状象征着天地合一。它们有一个八角形底座,代表着稳定和精神的基础。表面装饰着如莲花和藤蔓等复杂的花卉图案。塔尖通常是多层的,每一层都代表着从肉体存在走向精神开悟的飞升。塔顶通常以一个小的镀金伞状结构收尾,象征着保护和荣誉。

Wat Phra Ram

Wat Phra Ram is another significant temple which was constructed in the late 14th century by King Ramesuan on the cremation site of his father, King U-Thong, the first king of Ayutthaya. The towering central prang is the most prominent feature of Wat Phra Ram. I could see many this kind of Khmer-style tower here. The influence of Khmer architecture on the architecture of Ayutthaya is profound in several key features within the Ayutthaya Historical Park. The Khmer Empire, which flourished in Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 15th centuries, left a lasting impact on the region.

帕拉姆寺是另一座重要的寺庙,由拉梅苏安国王于14世纪末在其父亲乌通国王(大城府第一任国王)的葬礼所在地上修建。高耸的中央主塔是帕拉姆寺最显著的特征。我在这个公园里看到了很多这种高棉风格的塔。高棉建筑对大城府建筑的影响在大城府历史公园中体现得淋漓尽致。高棉帝国在9世纪至15世纪在东南亚实力强大,对该地区产生了持久的影响。

Khmer architects often used sandstone and laterite in their constructions, materials that were also adopted in Ayutthayan architecture. These materials are durable and suitable for intricate carvings and large-scale structures. The stucco reliefs on the prang of Wat Phra Ram and other temples in Ayutthaya feature detailed carvings that echo the artistic style of Khmer bas-reliefs found at Angkor.

高棉建筑师经常在建筑中使用砂岩和红土,大城府的建筑也借鉴采用了这些材料。这些材料经久耐用,适合制作精美的雕刻品和大型建筑。帕拉姆寺和大城府其他寺庙的灰泥浮雕雕刻精细,与吴哥窟的高棉浅浮雕艺术风格相呼应。

There is an artificial lake located adjacent to Wat Phra Ram. The calm waters of the lake create a stunning mirror effect, reflecting the nearby temples towers and greenery. The lake planted with blooming lotus flowers looked like the Western Lake of Hangzhou.

帕拉姆寺旁边有一个人工湖,湖水平静如镜般倒映着附近的高阁塔楼和绿植,湖中种满了盛开的莲花,仿若杭州西湖。

Walking through the trail covered with gravel, I could not help to contemplate the history of Thailand one thousand year ago. The first centralized country Sukhothai Kingdom was founded in 1238 by King Sri Indraditya, marking the beginning of what is considered the first independent Thai kingdom. Sukhothai was a mandala state, where the central power radiated outward, and local rulers paid tribute to the king. Sukhothai became a center for Theravada Buddhism, with the construction of numerous temples in this style.

走在铺满碎石的小径上,我不禁回想起一千年前悠久的泰国历史。历史上第一个集权国家素可泰王国由因陀罗帝王于1238年建立,标志着泰国第一个独立王国的开端。素可泰是一个曼荼罗国家,中央权力向外辐射,地方统治者向国王进贡。素可泰成为上座部佛教的中心,当时就建造了许多这种风格的寺庙。

In 1438, Sukhothai was officially annexed by the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 by King U Thong. The kingdom expanded through military conquests and alliances, eventually controlling much of present-day Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and parts of Myanmar. Ayutthaya continued to promote Theravada Buddhism. Ayutthaya engaged in numerous conflicts with neighboring states, particularly Myanmar. These wars were a source of eventual downfall. In 1767, after years of intermittent warfare, Burmese forces captured and sacked Ayutthaya, leading to the kingdom’s collapse. The whole city was destroyed, and many buildings were ruined.

1438年,素可泰王国被大城王国正式吞并。大城王国由乌通国王于1350年建立。王国通过军事征服和联盟不断扩张,最终控制了现在的泰国、老挝、柬埔寨和缅甸部分地区的大部分地区。大城王国继续推广上座部佛教并与邻国尤其是缅甸发生了多次冲突。这些战争最终导致了大城王国的衰落。1767年,经过多年的断断续续的战争,缅甸军队攻占并洗劫了大城王国,导致王国灭亡。整座大城府被摧毁,许多建筑物被毁。

Wat Nok

Wat Nok is one of the lesser-known temples in Ayutthaya. It has a quieter presence, often overlooked by the mainstream tourist trail. Unlike other temples, its main building is well conserved. It is enclosed by a wall, with a gate serving as the entrance. It includes a courtyard and a tranquil garden area. Visitors could know how the complete temple of Ayutthaya looked like after visiting it.

诺克寺是大城府鲜为人知的寺庙之一。它比较安静,经常被大众游客忽略。与其他寺庙不同,它的主建筑保存完好。它被一堵墙包围,有一扇门作为入口,其中包括一个庭院和一个宁静的花园。游客参观后就能知道一座完整的大城府寺庙的概况。

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

The last site visited was the Wat Chaiwatthanaram, which was built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong. It was constructed in honor of his mother and to commemorate his victory over the Khmer kingdom. It is a monument similar to the Arc de Triomphe and symbolizes the power and influence of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Like the design of many temples in Ayutthaya, the central prang stands at 35 meters and is the most prominent feature of Wat Chaiwatthanaram. It is surrounded by smaller prangs and chedis. The three towers, standing majestically against the sky, inspired my appreciation for the historical and cultural achievements. There is a large piece of lawn behind the temple providing excellent panoramic photography opportunities, especially during sunset when the light enhances the details and colors.

这次旅行参观的最后一处景点就是柴瓦塔那兰寺,该寺由 Prasat Thong 国王为了纪念他的母亲和战胜高棉王国于1630年修建。它是一座类似于凯旋门的纪念碑,象征着大城王国的权力和影响。与大城府许多寺庙的设计一样,中央的塔高达35米,这是柴瓦塔那兰寺最突出的特征。它周围环绕着较小的佛塔。三座壮观的高塔巍然耸立在蓝天之下令我对泰国历史和文化成就感到由衷的赞赏。寺庙后面有一大片草坪,尤其是在日落时分,光线增强了景物的细节和色彩,为游客提供拍摄绝佳全景的机会。

Surrounding the central prang is a rectangular gallery lined with numerous Buddha statues. Most of the stuccos, bas-reliefs and architectures are well conserved. Continuous restoration and preservation efforts are undertaken by Thai government to maintain the structural integrity and aesthetic beauty of this temple. Such an impressive cultural heritage really needs people to protect it well in the long run.

中央佛塔周围是长方形的画廊,两旁摆放着许多佛像。大部分的灰泥浅浮雕和建筑如今都保存完好。泰国政府一直以来不断进行修复和保护工作,以保持这座寺庙的结构完整性和美感。如此令人印象深刻的文化遗产确实需要人们永远好好保护。

My trip in Ayutthaya historic park lasted a whole day. As the sun dipped low, casting golden hues across ancient stones, Ayutthaya this mystical land seemed to whisper tales of old stories and, kings and temples. Through ruins vast where echoes of history resided, I returned back to train station in wonder. Beneath tall and grand prangs, I felt the pulse of this sacred land. The memories of this journey will linger and always be etched in my mind.

我在大城府历史公园的旅行持续了一整天。当太阳渐渐落下,金色的光芒洒在古老的琢石上时,大城府这片神秘的土地似乎在低声诉说着古老的故事,讲述着国王和寺庙的依稀往事。穿过这片回荡历史的广阔遗迹,我满心惊奇地回到了火车站。在高大宏伟的佛塔下,我感受到了这片神圣土地的脉搏。这次旅行的记忆也将永远铭刻在我的脑海里。

From Haiphong to Halong: Capturing the Beauty of Halong Bay

探寻下龙湾的美

Haiphong is a bustling port city in northern Vietnam, known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and strategic significance. As one of Vietnam’s major industrial centers, Haiphong boasts a blend of colonial architecture and modern city development. Haiphong is also a gateway to the stunning Cat Ba Island and the UNESCO-listed Halong Bay, making it an essential stop for travelers exploring northern Vietnam.

海防是越南北部一个繁华的港口城市,以其悠久的历史、充满活力的文化和战略意义而闻名。作为越南的主要工业中心,海防融合了殖民时期的建筑和现代城市发展。这座城市也是通往美丽的吉婆岛和被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产的下龙湾的门户,是各国游客探索越南北部的必经之地。

I visited this city in 2019 because of a business trip. In January, Hai Phong experiences cool and relatively dry weather with temperature around 19 °C. The city had shorter daylight hours with a mix of sunny and cloudy days. Obviously, it is not a good period for travel. I lived beside of the Hai Phong Museum. This yellow building itself is an architectural landmark, reflecting colonial influences that were prevalent during the French occupation of Vietnam. It houses an extensive collection of artifacts, photographs, and documents that chronicle the history, culture, and social development of Hai Phong.

2019年 我因出差来到了这座城市。1 月份的海防天气干燥阴冷,气温约为19°C。日照时间较短,晴天和阴天交替出现。显然这不是一个旅行的特别好时期。我住在海防博物馆旁边。这座黄色建筑本身就是一座地标,反映了法国占领越南期间的殖民影响。它收藏了大量文物、照片和文件,记录了海防的历史、文化和社会发展。

When I travelled in Vietnam, I noticed that many buildings constructed during the French colonial period like this in the photo were painted yellow. The color gave buildings a distinguished and stately appearance that perhaps aligned with French colonial tastes. The yellow paint often used was lime-based, which was durable and provided a protective layer against the tropical weather. It reflects sunlight well and helps in keeping the buildings cooler.

我在越南旅行时就注意到,许多法国殖民时期建造的建筑(如照片中的这座建筑物)都漆成了黄色。这种颜色使建筑物具有尊贵庄严的外观,似乎符合法国殖民者的品味。这种常使用的黄色油漆是石灰打底,这种油漆经久耐用,可以抵御热带天气。它能很好地反射阳光,有助于保持建筑物凉爽。

This building is a good example of the architecture of French colonial period as well. The station’s architecture retains colonial influences, characterized by its classic yellow facade and functional design. ‘Ga’ represents the meaning of train station in Vietnamese. It is close to the French word ‘Gare’ which means train station as well. Hai Phong Train Station serves as the terminus for several important rail routes, including the Hanoi-Hai Phong line.

这座建筑也是法国殖民时期建筑的典范。车站的建筑保留了殖民时期的影响,其特点是经典的黄色外墙和实用的设计。“Ga”在越南语中代表火车站。它与法语单词“Gare”相近,后者也是火车站的意思。海防火车站是包括河内-海防线等几条重要铁路线的终点站。

Hai Phong lies along the coast of the Gulf of Tonkin and it serves as a gateway to several popular tourist destinations, including Halong Bay. I hired a private car which took me directly to the harbor of Halong Bay. There are multiple ticket counters where visitors can purchase tickets for various cruises and one day boat tours. The best way to experience the beauty of Halong Bay is by taking a cruise.

海防位于北部湾沿岸,是通往下龙湾等多个热门旅游地的门户。我租了一辆私家车,直接把我送到了下龙湾的港口。那里有多个售票柜台,游客可以在那里购买各种游轮和一日游的船票。体验下龙湾美景的最佳方式是就是乘坐图中这种游轮。

Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is renowned for its stunning natural beauty. The bay covers an area of approximately 1,553 square kilometers and features around 1,600 limestone islands and islets, many of which are topped with lush vegetation. The dramatic karst landscape, crystal-clear waters, and mysterious caves make Halong Bay a must-visit destination for travelers. It is so well-known for the tourists that even this day is super misty, many tourists still flock to the harbor and visit it by cruises.

下龙湾是联合国教科文组织的世界遗产,以令人惊叹的自然风光而闻名。海湾面积约1,553平方公里,拥有约1,600个石灰岩岛屿和小岛,其中许多岛屿上长满了茂密的植被。壮观的喀斯特地貌、清澈的海水和神秘的洞穴使下龙湾成为游客来越南必打卡的目的地。即使这天雾气弥漫,众多游客仍然慕名而来峰涌至港口,乘船游览下龙湾。

In the morning, the temperature is a bit lower, and the dense mists block most of my view but I think it is important to keep a good mood during the travel. I chose to take a cruise of half day trip. When the boat left the harbor and entered into the bay, gradually I could see the clear shape of the mountains.

早上气温稍低,浓密的雾气遮挡了大部分视线,不过旅途中保持好心情特别重要。我选择坐了半日游船,当游船离开港口进入海湾时,渐渐地我能看到了山的轮廓。

The mountains of Halong Bay, primarily composed of limestone karsts, create a stunning and unique landscape that has captivated visitors for centuries. These formations are the result of millions of years of geological processes, making Halong Bay one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in the world.

下龙湾的山主要由喀斯特石灰岩组成,形成了令人惊叹的独特景观,几个世纪以来一直吸引着众多游客。这些地貌是数百万年地质运动的结果,使下龙湾成为世界上最非凡的自然奇观之一。

The karsts here are extremely similar to the scene of Guiling in China. Karst is actually a type of landscape that is characterized by distinctive landforms and features resulting from the dissolution of soluble rocks, such as limestone, dolomite, and gypsum. These kind of small rock mountains are often blanketed in dense tropical vegetation, including shrubs, ferns, and flowering plants. The greenery clinging to the rocky surfaces adds a layer of vibrant color to the gray and white limestone.

这里的喀斯特地貌与中国桂林的景色极为相似。喀斯特地貌是一种由可溶性岩石(如石灰岩、白云岩和石膏)溶解后形成的独特的地貌特征。这类小岩山通常被茂密的包括灌木、蕨类植物和开花植物等热带植被覆盖。攀附在岩石表面的绿色植物为灰白色的石灰岩增添了一抹鲜艳的色彩。

Karst landscape consists of rocks and mountains of different sizes and strange shapes. It is formed primarily through the process of chemical weathering. When rainwater, which absorbs carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to become slightly acidic, percolates through the ground, it reacts with the soluble rocks and gradually dissolves them. Over time, the continued dissolution of the rock leads to the development of caves and mountains.

喀斯特地貌由大小不一、形状奇特的岩石和山脉组成。它主要通过化学风化过程形成。当雨水从大气中吸收二氧化碳并变成弱酸性时,它渗透到地面,与可溶性岩石发生反应并逐渐溶解它们。随着时间的推移,岩石的不断溶解导致洞穴和山脉的形成。

These karsts are characterized by their steep, rugged peaks that rise abruptly from the emerald waters. Their shapes vary from slender spires to massive, rounded mounds, creating a varied and dynamic landscape. The mountains are always shrouded in mist, creating a mystical and almost surreal atmosphere. Although I don’t like the misty day, I have to admit that the mist weavings through the karsts are really special, enhancing the otherworldly beauty. The scenery here was like an ink brush painting created by Chinese painter Mi Fu.

喀斯特风景显著的特点是陡峭崎岖的山峰从翠绿的水中陡然升起。它们形状各异,从细长的尖顶到巨大的圆形土丘,形成了各式变化多端、充满活力的景观。群山笼罩在薄雾中,营造出一种神秘如仙境的氛围。虽然我不喜欢雾蒙蒙的天气,但不得不说,雾气笼罩的喀斯特地貌真的很独特,有一种超凡脱俗的美感。这里的风景就像米芾创作的一幅水墨画一般。

The waters of Halong Bay are renowned for their striking emerald green color. This kind of hue is a result of the bay’s shallow depths, the reflection of lush vegetation, and the high content of phytoplankton in the water. The bay is always protected from strong winds and waves by the surrounding limestone karsts and islands. The tranquil water surface was mirror-like, reflecting the towering karsts, creating a mesmerizing visual effect.

下龙湾的海水以其夺目的翠绿色而闻名。这种色调是由于海湾水深较浅、茂密植被的倒影以及水中浮游植物含量高而造成的。周围的石灰岩和岛屿始终保护着海湾免受强风和海浪的侵袭。平静的水面如镜,倒映着高耸的喀斯特岩,营造出震撼的视觉效果。

There are many small islands in the Halong Bay. Dau Go Island is situated in the southwestern part of Halong Bay. It is accessible by boat and is often included in Halong Bay cruise itineraries. The cruise took around 6 hours including the time to travel around this island.

下龙湾有许多小岛。Dau Go 岛位于下龙湾西南部,可乘船前往,也被列入下龙湾游轮行程中。我乘坐的游轮旅游总共需要6个小时,其中包括绕岛游览的时间。

Dau Go Cave on this island is one of the largest and most historically significant caves in Halong Bay. It has significant historical importance. It is also named the “Cave of Wooden Stakes” because, according to legend, during the 13th century, General Tran Hung Dao hid wooden stakes in the cave. These stakes were later used in the famous Battle of Bach Dang River to defeat the invading Mongolian army by driving them into the riverbed to damage enemy ships. Dau Go Cave is well-lit with lights that highlight the most striking formations and impressive features of stalactites and stalagmites.

这座岛上的溶洞是下龙湾最大并具历史意义的洞穴。它被称为 “木桩洞”,根据传说,在13世纪,陈兴道将军在这个洞穴中藏有木桩。这些木桩后来在著名的白藤河战役中被插入河床以破坏敌舰并以此击败入侵的蒙古军队。这个溶洞灯光明亮,突出了引人注目的钟乳石和石笋的构造特征。

From the viewing platform, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of Halong Bay, including its emerald waters, surrounding islands, and iconic limestone karsts and took an unforgettable photo. Standing here, I really wondered at this kind of geological miracle.

游客可以在观景平台欣赏到包括翠绿的海水、周围的岛屿和标志性的石灰岩等下龙湾的全景,并拍下令人难忘的照片。站在这里我真的对这种地质奇迹发出由衷的惊叹。

Many rocks of unique shapes have become iconic symbols of the bay. These bizarre and unique rock formations are the result of complex geological processes over millions of year. The cruise took the visitors near the stone and stopped, leaving enough time to take photos. This is the Fighting Cock Rock. These twin rocks resemble two roosters facing off against each other. They are one of the most iconic images of Halong Bay and are often used in promotional brochures for the area.

许多形状独特的岩石已成为下龙湾的标志。这些奇异而独特的岩石由数百万年来复杂地质过程形成。游船将游客带到石头附近并停下来,为我们留出足够的时间拍照。这个是斗鸡岩。这两块岩石类似于两只相互对峙的公鸡。它们是下龙湾最具代表性的标志,经常用于这里的旅游宣传手册中。

This lonely stone is called Incense Burner. It is shaped like an incense burner, standing alone in the water, making it a striking sight against the backdrop of the bay. For most of the time of this trip, I was enjoying the landscape of the different rocks assembled in the bay which were the masterpiece of the nature.

这块孤零零的石头叫香炉石,形状像一个香炉独自矗立在水中,在海水的映衬下显得格外引人注目。这次旅行的大部分时间,其实都在欣赏海湾中各式各样岩石的景观,它们绝对是大自然鬼斧神工创造的杰作。

The cruise provided visitors lunch as well. Vietnamese cuisine is close to Chinese food and is known for its fresh ingredients and special taste sauces. Rice is the most popular staple food and people prefer to use chop sticks. Fresh herbs like basil, mint, and lemongrass, along with vegetables such as bean sprouts, cucumbers, and lettuce, are essential for adding flavor and freshness. Fish Sauce known as nuoc mam, is a fundamental ingredient that adds a salty, savory depth to many dishes. Spring rolls and hotpot are the two popular dishes in Vietnam. It was a great pleasure to taste the local food together with viewing the beautiful sceneries outside of the windows.

乘坐的游船还为游客提供午餐。越南菜肴与中国菜十分相近,以新鲜的食材和独特的酱汁而闻名。米饭是当地最受欢迎的主食,人们也更喜欢用筷子用餐。罗勒、薄荷和柠檬草等新鲜香草以及豆芽、黄瓜和生菜等蔬菜经常用来增加菜品的风味和新鲜度。鱼露(当地称为 nuoc mam)是一种当地很基本的配料,可为许多菜肴增添咸味和鲜味。春卷和火锅也是越南流行的菜肴。品尝当地美食并欣赏窗外美丽的风景简直是一种享受。

The happy moments always passed extremely fast. The cruise returned back to the harbor in the afternoon. As my journey through Halong Bay came to a close, this serene bay with its unique charm have left a special mark on my heart. Each moment spent in this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a testament to the Earth’s unparalleled beauty and resilience. Visiting such a place of breathtaking natural wonders can be deeply restorative and spiritually uplifting.

快乐的时光总是转瞬即逝。下午游轮返回港口。当我在下龙湾的旅程结束时,这个宁静的海湾以其独特的魅力在我心中留下了特殊的印记。在这个世界遗产度过的每一刻都让我认识到地球这个星球无与伦比的美丽和韧性。游览这样一个令人惊叹的自然奇观确实可以让我精神焕发,找到旅行的意义。